On29thFebruarywewerereadyforthestart。Theloadswereallpreparedandarrangedinseparatedivisionsoftwentyeach,underthechargeofselectedofficersandmen。
Thebignogarahadsounded,thenativescollected,andeachmanstoodbyhisload;thustwenty-fivegangsoftwentyeachshouldhavestoodinline。
InowdiscoveredthatthevauntedhonestyoftheLoborewasofthesameorderasthatofothernegroes。Fivehundredcowshadbeengiventoasmanynatives,forallofwhichthesheikAbbiohaddeclaredhimselfresponsible。Thebignogarasoundedinvain。Afterwaitingforsomehours,andsendingnumerousmessengerstoasmanyvillages,only433
carrierscouldbemustered;thussixty-sevenhadelopedwithasmanycows!
Noonecanimaginethetroubleofsuchajourneywithsolongaretinueofcarriers,mostofwhomaredishonest,andonlyseekanopportunitytoabscondupontheroad。
TheLoboreareimmenselypowerfulmen,andtheycarriedtheboxesofHale’srocketsassingleloads,althoughweighingupwardsofseventy-twopounds。Atthesametimetheyquarrelledamongthemselvesastothechoiceofparcels,andIcouldwithdifficultyprevailuponthemtocarrythezincboat,althoughitdidnotexceed130lbs。Fourmenactuallyrefusedtotouchit,asitsatuneasilyupontheirheads。
Thishandylittlevesselwasmadeofzincuponanironframework,andwouldcontainfourpeopleuponapinch,butwouldeasilyconveythreeacrossariver。Ihadarrangeditupontwostoutbamboossoadjustedthatfourmenshouldhavecarrieditwithease。Thenativesdemandedeight,butIatlengthcompromisedforsix。
Thedelaycausedbythenon-appearanceofthesixty-sevencarrierswasextremelydangerous,asitincreasedthechanceofdesertions。Alreadymanyhadvolunteeredtosearchfortheirmissingfriends,whichwouldhaveresultedinasearchforthemalso,untilmybodyofcarrierswouldhavemeltedaway。
FortunatelyIhadmadeaconsiderableallowancefordesertionsontheroad,andIcouldmanagetostartwiththeassistanceofthesoldiersandtheirwives,amongwhomIdividedmanybasketsofflour。
At3。25P。M。westarted。
TherewasnodangernowthatwehadpassedtheBaritribe,thereforewecouldpushonwithanadvanceguardoffivepickedmenof”TheForty,”
whoalwaysaccompaniedus,andleavethechargeofthemarchandbaggagetoColonelAbd-el-Kaderandthevariousofficers。
Weaccordinglymarched,atfourmilesanhour,througharockyandhillycountry,generallywooded,whichwouldhavebeenanawkwardpositionifheldbyanenemy。
At6P。M。wehaltedatarockyravinewherewaterhadbeenexpectedbyourguide。Toourdismaywefounditnearlydry,anditwasnecessarytodigtemporarywellsinthesandtoprocureasupplyforourselves,whilethehorseswereforcedtocontentthemselveswiththeimpurepool。
Itquicklybecamedark,andthetroopsandbaggagewerefarbehind。Wethereforegatheredwoodandmadeablazingfiretoshowourposition;atthesametimeabugleranddrummerwhohadaccompaniedus,madeasmuchnoiseaspossiblefromthesummitofasmallhill。
At7。30P。M。thecattlearrivedbytorchlight,togetherwiththetroopsandbaggage。SomeoftheLoborecarriershadalreadydesertedontheroad,whichhadcausedmuchdelay。
Wehadmarchedninemiles,butitwasabsolutelynecessarytosendfourmenbacktoLobore,toinsistuponfreshcarriersbeingimmediatelysenttoreplacetherunaways。
OnMarch1westartedathalf-pastsixA。M。,afteraterrificscrambleforloadsby400Loborecarriers,whorushedinandtuggedandwrestledfortheirpackageslikewolvesoveracarcase。Boxeswereturnedupsidedown,andcarriedinthatmannerwithanutterdisregardforthecontents。
TheinvertedcanteenwasdiscoveredupontheheadofabrutalLobore,whosebodywasbeingbastedwithCognacandginthatshoweredfromtheloosenedstoppersofthedecanters。
Ineversawsuchawildpackofsavages;theywereonlyfittocarrytheelephants’tusksofthetraders;butanycivilizedbaggageranariskofinstantdestruction。
Theoldsheik,Abbio,hadgivenmehissontokeeporderamongthepeople。Thisyoungmanwasabouttwenty-sevenyearsofage,but,althoughrespectableinappearance,hedidnotappeartohavetheslightestcontroloverhispeople,andheregardedtheirdesertionswithseemingindifference。
Ihadastrongsuspicionthathemightquietlyabscondatnight,inwhichcaseeverymanmightinstantlyfollowhisexample。Ithereforeorderedalightthongofleathertobeattachedtotheironcollarwornasanornamentuponhisneck,andItrustedhimtothesurveillanceofacoupleofsoldierstoldoffashisguardofhonour。
Wemarchedsouthforsixteenmilesthroughafinecountryofhillsandlowforest,wherethevillagesoftheMadihadbeenmostlydestroyedbytheslave-huntingpartiesofAbouSaood。
Wepassedlargetractsoflandthathadformerlybeeninahighstateofcultivation,andthecharredremainsofnumerousvillagesbespokethedesolationcausedbythesebrigandsoftheWhiteNile。Theroadwaswellwateredbymanysmallstreamsindeepgorges,untilwedescendedtotheAsuariver。Thiswasjusttwenty-fivemilesfromourcampatLobore,inlatitudeN。,byobservation,3degrees43minutes。
WehappenedtoarriveatthespotwheretheriverAtabbijoinedtheAsua。AtthisjunctiontheAtabbiwasperfectlyclear,whiletheAsuawasmuddy,whichprovedthatheavyrainhadfallenintheMadiandShoolicountries,whiletheweatherwasdryinthemountainsofObbo。
TheAsuaflowedthroughafineforest,butalthoughthewaterwasmuddyfromrecentrains,thevolumeatthisseasonwasconfinedtoaportionofthebed,inthedeepestpartsofwhichitdidnotexceedtwofeetsixinches。Thebedfrombanktobankwasabout120yardsinwidth,andthemaximumriseoftheriverwasabouttwelvefeet。Duringthewetseasonthisisafrightfultorrentthatactsasabarriertoanyadvanceorretreatoftroopsencumberedwithbaggage。
Havingwadedthroughtheriver,wehaltedundertheshadytreesonthesouthside;heretherewasexcellentherbageforthecattle,astheyounggrassaftertheannualfireswasnowabouteightincheshigh,upontherichsoilneartheriver’sbank。
Wheneverwehaltedduringdaylight,Itookastrollwiththerifle,accompaniedbyLieutenantBaker。
Wewalkedforsometimealongthebanksoftheriverupstreamwithoutseeinganygame,andIwasstruckwiththeabsenceoftracksofthelargeranimals,whichcoincidedwithmyremarksontheAsuarivermanyyearsprevious,whenIcrosseditaboutthirtymileshigherup,onmyroutefromLatookatoShooa。
Iexpectedtoreturnwithoutseeinggame,whenwesuddenlyspiedafewwaterbuckinthesandybedoftheriver,about300pacesdistant。
Wemadeagoodstalk,butIonlywoundedtheanimalatwhichIfiredatabout150yards,andtheygallopedoffthroughtheopenforest。Iheardthebulletfromthelefthandbarrelstrikeatreestem,whichsavedtheantelope,buthavingquicklyreloaded,Ihadaclearandsteadyshotatalongrangeasthelargebucksuddenlystoppedandlookedback。Iputupthelastsightfor250yardsandtookafullbead。Tomygreatsatisfactionthewaterbuckwithafinesetofhornsdroppeddead。I
couldnotmeasurethedistanceaccuratelyaswehadtodescendarockybank,andthen,crossingthebedoftheAsua,toascendthesteepnorthbankbeforewearrivedattolerablylevelground。
Uponreachingtheanimal,Ifoundthebulletintheneck,whereithaddividedthespine。Iguessedthedistanceatabout240yards。SomeofourLoborenatives,whohadkeptatadistancebehindus,nowcameup,andinashorttimethenoblewaterbuckwascutupandthefleshcarriedintocamp。Thisspeciesofantelope,wheningoodcondition,weighsaboutthirtystonecleaned。
OnMarch2westartedat6A。M。,andmarchedatarapidratealongahardandexcellentpath,whichinclinedupwardsfromtheriverforabouteightmiles。
Thebushwasveryopen,andinmanyportionsthecountrywasasuccessionofdeepdells,whichinthewetseasonwerecoveredwithhighgrass,butatthistimetheyounggrasswashardlythreeincheshigh,havingsproutedaftertherecentfires。
Fromanaltitudeofabout1,000feetabovetheAsuariver,wehadasplendidviewoftheentirelandscape。
Ontheeast,ataboutfiftymilesdistant,wasthefinerangeofloftymountainsthatstretchedinalonglinetowardsLatooka。Onthewest,ontheleftbankoftheWhiteNile,whichnowflowedalmostbeneathourfeet,wastheprecipitousmountainNeri,knownbytheArabtradersasGebelhuku。ThisfinemassofrockdescendsinaseriesofruggedterracesfromaheightofbetweenthreeandfourthousandfeettotheNile,atapointwheretheriverboilsthroughanarrowgorgebetweenthemountains。ItisinthispassagethattheprincipalfallstakeplacewhichIwitnessedinmyformerjourney。Atthattimeourpathledalongtherockybankoftheriver,andwasbothdifficultanddangerous。
EightmilesfromtheAsuarivernowbroughtustothetopofthepass,andhavingstoppedforafewmomentstotakecompassbearings,webeganthesomewhatsteepdescent。
Walkingwaspreferabletoriding,andafteradistanceofacoupleofmileshadbeenaccomplished,weroundedtherockyhillbycrossingaravineuponourright,andtheviewofthepromisedlandburstuponus。
ThegrandWhiteNilelaylikeabroadstreakofsilveronourrightasitflowedinacalm,deepstreamdirectfromtheAlbertN’yanza;atthisspotaboveallcataracts。Nowaterhadasyetbeenbrokenbyafall;thetroublesofriver-lifelayinthefuture;thejourneytotheseamightbesaidtohaveonlyjustcommenced。HeretheentirevolumeflowedfromtheAlbertN’yanza,distanthardlyonedegree;andherehadIalwayshopedtobringmysteamers,asthestarting-pointfortheopeningoftheheartofAfricatonavigation。Thishassincebeenprovedcorrectbytheeffortsofmysuccessor,ColonelGordon,whocarriedthe38-tonsteamerwhichIhadleftatGondokorotothispointabovethecataracts,andconstructedheratDuffleontheoppositebank。ThisvesselsteamedintotheAlbertN’yanzawithoutanydifficulty,andcorroboratedmyassertionthattheriverwasnavigable。ItmayberememberedthatmanygeographershadcontestedthefactthattheNilewasaneffluentfromtheAlbertN’yanza。
IwasdeeplymortifiedwhenIgazeduponthislovelyview,andreflectedupontheimpossibilitiesthathadpreventedmysuccess。HadtheWhiteNilebeenopenasformerly,IshouldhavetransportedthenecessarycamelsfromKhartoum,andtherewouldhavebeennoseriousdifficultyinthedeliveryofthesteamerstothispoint。Twoorthreestrongpioneerparties,withnativeassistance,wouldquicklyhavebridgedoverthenarrowwater-coursesandhaveclearedaroughroadthroughtheforestsasthecartsadvanced。
Itwasuselesstorepine。Istillhopedtoaccomplishthework。
Wenowdescendedintothebeautifulplain,towhichIhadgiventhenameIbrahimeyah,inhonourofthefatherofhisHighnesstheKhediveIbrahimPacha。
ThispointisdestinedtobecomethecapitalofCentralAfrica。
ThegeneraldepotforthesteamerswillbenearthemouthoftheUn-y-Ameriver;which,afterrisingintheprairiesbetweenFatikoandUnyoro,windsthroughalovelycountryforabouteightymiles,andfallsintotheWhiteNileoppositetoGebelKuku。ThetradeofCentralAfrica,whendevelopedbythesteamersontheAlbertN’yanza,willconcentrateatthisspot,whenceitmustbeconveyedbycamelsfor120milestoGondokoro,untilatsomefuturetimearailwaymayperhapscontinuethelineofsteamcommunication。
Itisacuriousfactthatashortlineof120milesofrailwaywouldopenuptheveryheartofAfricatosteamtransport——betweentheMediterraneanandtheequator,whenthelinefromCairotoKhartoumshallbecompleted!
TheNo。10steamerthatIhadbroughtuptoGondokorofromKhartoumwasoriginallybuiltinEnglandforthemailserviceperNilebetweenAlexandriaandCairo,atthetimewhentheoverlandroutewasmadebyvansacrossthedeserttoSuez。ThissteamerhadsailedfromLondon,andhadarrivedcompleteatAlexandria。
Itappearsalmostimpossiblethatsheisnowfloatingatanaltitudeofnearly2,000feetabovethesealevel;towhichgreatelevationshehasactuallysteamedfromtheMediterranean。Thus,startingfromabaseline,andproducingalineperpendiculartothesealevelof2,000feet,shehasclimbeduptheNiletoherpresenthighposition。
AcceptingtheapproximatelengthoftheNileinallitswindingsfromtheMediterraneantoN。lat。4degrees38minutes,at3,000milesinroundnumbers;thiswillgiveanaverageriseorfallintheriverofnineinchespermile;whicheasilyexplainsthepositionofthesteamerathermostremotepointbelowthelastcataracts。
Irevelledinthislovelycountry。Thefinepark-liketreeswereclumpedindark-greenmasseshereandthere。Thetalldolape-palmsBorassusEthiopicuswerescatteredabouttheplain,sometimessingly,atothersgrowinginconsiderablenumbers。Highandboldrocks;nearanddistantmountains;therichestplainimaginableintheforeground,withtheclearUn-y-Ameflowingnowinashallowstreambetweenitsloftybanks,andthegrandoldNileuponourright,allcombinedtoformalandscapethatproducedaparadise。
Theairwasdelightful。Therewasanelasticityofspirit,theresultofapureatmosphere,thatmadeonefeelhappyinspiteofmanyanxieties。
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