Notlongsince，astrollingIndianwenttosellbasketsatthehouseofawell-knownlawyerinmyneighborhood。“Doyouwishtobuyanybaskets？“heasked。“No，wedonotwantany，“wasthereply。“What！“exclaimedtheIndianashewentoutthegate，“doyoumeantostarveus？“Havingseenhisindustriouswhiteneighborssowelloff——thatthelawyerhadonlytoweavearguments，and，bysomemagic，wealthandstandingfollowed——hehadsaidtohimself:
　　Iwillgointobusiness；Iwillweavebaskets；itisathingwhichI
　　cando。Thinkingthatwhenhehadmadethebasketshewouldhavedonehispart，andthenitwouldbethewhiteman’stobuythem。Hehadnotdiscoveredthatitwasnecessaryforhimtomakeitworththeother’swhiletobuythem，oratleastmakehimthinkthatitwasso，ortomakesomethingelsewhichitwouldbeworthhiswhiletobuy。Itoohadwovenakindofbasketofadelicatetexture，butIhadnotmadeitworthanyone’swhiletobuythem。Yetnottheless，inmycase，didIthinkitworthmywhiletoweavethem，andinsteadofstudyinghowtomakeitworthmen’swhiletobuymybaskets，Istudiedratherhowtoavoidthenecessityofsellingthem。Thelifewhichmenpraiseandregardassuccessfulisbutonekind。Whyshouldweexaggerateanyonekindattheexpenseoftheothers？
　　Findingthatmyfellow-citizenswerenotlikelytooffermeanyroominthecourthouse，oranycuracyorlivinganywhereelse，butImustshiftformyself，Iturnedmyfacemoreexclusivelythanevertothewoods，whereIwasbetterknown。Ideterminedtogointobusinessatonce，andnotwaittoacquiretheusualcapital，usingsuchslendermeansasIhadalreadygot。MypurposeingoingtoWaldenPondwasnottolivecheaplynortolivedearlythere，buttotransactsomeprivatebusinesswiththefewestobstacles；tobehinderedfromaccomplishingwhichforwantofalittlecommonsense，alittleenterpriseandbusinesstalent，appearednotsosadasfoolish。
　　Ihavealwaysendeavoredtoacquirestrictbusinesshabits；theyareindispensabletoeveryman。IfyourtradeiswiththeCelestialEmpire，thensomesmallcountinghouseonthecoast，insomeSalemharbor，willbefixtureenough。Youwillexportsucharticlesasthecountryaffords，purelynativeproducts，muchiceandpinetimberandalittlegranite，alwaysinnativebottoms。Thesewillbegoodventures。Tooverseeallthedetailsyourselfinperson；tobeatoncepilotandcaptain，andownerandunderwriter；tobuyandsellandkeeptheaccounts；toreadeveryletterreceived，andwriteorreadeverylettersent；tosuperintendthedischargeofimportsnightandday；tobeuponmanypartsofthecoastalmostatthesametime——oftentherichestfreightwillbedischargeduponaJerseyshore；——tobeyourowntelegraph，unweariedlysweepingthehorizon，speakingallpassingvesselsboundcoastwise；tokeepupasteadydespatchofcommodities，forthesupplyofsuchadistantandexorbitantmarket；tokeepyourselfinformedofthestateofthemarkets，prospectsofwarandpeaceeverywhere，andanticipatethetendenciesoftradeandcivilization——takingadvantageoftheresultsofallexploringexpeditions，usingnewpassagesandallimprovementsinnavigation；——chartstobestudied，thepositionofreefsandnewlightsandbuoystobeascertained，andever，andever，thelogarithmictablestobecorrected，forbytheerrorofsomecalculatorthevesseloftensplitsuponarockthatshouldhavereachedafriendlypier——thereistheuntoldfateofLaProuse；——
　　universalsciencetobekeptpacewith，studyingthelivesofallgreatdiscoverersandnavigators，greatadventurersandmerchants，fromHannoandthePhoeniciansdowntoourday；infine，accountofstocktobetakenfromtimetotime，toknowhowyoustand。Itisalabortotaskthefacultiesofaman——suchproblemsofprofitandloss，ofinterest，oftareandtret，andgaugingofallkindsinit，asdemandauniversalknowledge。
　　IhavethoughtthatWaldenPondwouldbeagoodplaceforbusiness，notsolelyonaccountoftherailroadandtheicetrade；
　　itoffersadvantageswhichitmaynotbegoodpolicytodivulge；itisagoodportandagoodfoundation。NoNevamarshestobefilled；
　　thoughyoumusteverywherebuildonpilesofyourowndriving。Itissaidthataflood-tide，withawesterlywind，andiceintheNeva，wouldsweepSt。Petersburgfromthefaceoftheearth。
　　Asthisbusinesswastobeenteredintowithouttheusualcapital，itmaynotbeeasytoconjecturewherethosemeans，thatwillstillbeindispensabletoeverysuchundertaking，weretobeobtained。AsforClothing，tocomeatoncetothepracticalpartofthequestion，perhapsweareledoftenerbytheloveofnoveltyandaregardfortheopinionsofmen，inprocuringit，thanbyatrueutility。Lethimwhohasworktodorecollectthattheobjectofclothingis，first，toretainthevitalheat，andsecondly，inthisstateofsociety，tocovernakedness，andhemayjudgehowmuchofanynecessaryorimportantworkmaybeaccomplishedwithoutaddingtohiswardrobe。Kingsandqueenswhowearasuitbutonce，thoughmadebysometailorordressmakertotheirmajesties，cannotknowthecomfortofwearingasuitthatfits。Theyarenobetterthanwoodenhorsestohangthecleanclotheson。Everydayourgarmentsbecomemoreassimilatedtoourselves，receivingtheimpressofthewearer’scharacter，untilwehesitatetolaythemasidewithoutsuchdelayandmedicalappliancesandsomesuchsolemnityevenasourbodies。Nomaneverstoodthelowerinmyestimationforhavingapatchinhisclothes；yetIamsurethatthereisgreateranxiety，commonly，tohavefashionable，oratleastcleanandunpatchedclothes，thantohaveasoundconscience。Buteveniftherentisnotmended，perhapstheworstvicebetrayedisimprovidence。I
　　sometimestrymyacquaintancesbysuchtestsasthis——Whocouldwearapatch，ortwoextraseamsonly，overtheknee？Mostbehaveasiftheybelievedthattheirprospectsforlifewouldberuinediftheyshoulddoit。Itwouldbeeasierforthemtohobbletotownwithabrokenlegthanwithabrokenpantaloon。Oftenifanaccidenthappenstoagentleman’slegs，theycanbemended；butifasimilaraccidenthappenstothelegsofhispantaloons，thereisnohelpforit；forheconsiders，notwhatistrulyrespectable，butwhatisrespected。Weknowbutfewmen，agreatmanycoatsandbreeches。Dressascarecrowinyourlastshift，youstandingshiftlessby，whowouldnotsoonestsalutethescarecrow？Passingacornfieldtheotherday，closebyahatandcoatonastake，I
　　recognizedtheownerofthefarm。Hewasonlyalittlemoreweather-beatenthanwhenIsawhimlast。Ihaveheardofadogthatbarkedateverystrangerwhoapproachedhismaster’spremiseswithclotheson，butwaseasilyquietedbyanakedthief。Itisaninterestingquestionhowfarmenwouldretaintheirrelativerankiftheyweredivestedoftheirclothes。Couldyou，insuchacase，tellsurelyofanycompanyofcivilizedmenwhichbelongedtothemostrespectedclass？WhenMadamPfeiffer，inheradventuroustravelsroundtheworld，fromeasttowest，hadgotsonearhomeasAsiaticRussia，shesaysthatshefeltthenecessityofwearingotherthanatravellingdress，whenshewenttomeettheauthorities，forshe“wasnowinacivilizedcountry，where……
　　peoplearejudgedofbytheirclothes。“EveninourdemocraticNewEnglandtownstheaccidentalpossessionofwealth，anditsmanifestationindressandequipagealone，obtainforthepossessoralmostuniversalrespect。Buttheyyieldsuchrespect，numerousastheyare，aresofarheathen，andneedtohaveamissionarysenttothem。Beside，clothesintroducedsewing，akindofworkwhichyoumaycallendless；awoman’sdress，atleast，isneverdone。
　　Amanwhohasatlengthfoundsomethingtodowillnotneedtogetanewsuittodoitin；forhimtheoldwilldo，thathaslaindustyinthegarretforanindeterminateperiod。Oldshoeswillserveaherolongerthantheyhaveservedhisvalet——ifaheroeverhasavalet——barefeetareolderthanshoes，andhecanmakethemdo。Onlytheywhogotosoiresandlegislativeballsmusthavenewcoats，coatstochangeasoftenasthemanchangesinthem。
　　Butifmyjacketandtrousers，myhatandshoes，arefittoworshipGodin，theywilldo；willtheynot？Whoeversawhisoldclothes——hisoldcoat，actuallywornout，resolvedintoitsprimitiveelements，sothatitwasnotadeedofcharitytobestowitonsomepoorboy，byhimperchancetobebestowedonsomepoorerstill，orshallwesayricher，whocoulddowithless？Isay，bewareofallenterprisesthatrequirenewclothes，andnotratheranewwearerofclothes。Ifthereisnotanewman，howcanthenewclothesbemadetofit？Ifyouhaveanyenterprisebeforeyou，tryitinyouroldclothes。Allmenwant，notsomethingtodowith，butsomethingtodo，orrathersomethingtobe。Perhapsweshouldneverprocureanewsuit，howeverraggedordirtytheold，untilwehavesoconducted，soenterprisedorsailedinsomeway，thatwefeellikenewmenintheold，andthattoretainitwouldbelikekeepingnewwineinoldbottles。Ourmoultingseason，likethatofthefowls，mustbeacrisisinourlives。Theloonretirestosolitarypondstospendit。Thusalsothesnakecastsitsslough，andthecaterpillaritswormycoat，byaninternalindustryandexpansion；
　　forclothesarebutouroutmostcuticleandmortalcoil。Otherwiseweshallbefoundsailingunderfalsecolors，andbeinevitablycashieredatlastbyourownopinion，aswellasthatofmankind。
　　Wedongarmentaftergarment，asifwegrewlikeexogenousplantsbyadditionwithout。Ouroutsideandoftenthinandfancifulclothesareourepidermis，orfalseskin，whichpartakesnotofourlife，andmaybestrippedoffhereandtherewithoutfatalinjury；
　　ourthickergarments，constantlyworn，areourcellularintegument，orcortex；butourshirtsareourliber，ortruebark，whichcannotberemovedwithoutgirdlingandsodestroyingtheman。Ibelievethatallracesatsomeseasonswearsomethingequivalenttotheshirt。Itisdesirablethatamanbecladsosimplythathecanlayhishandsonhimselfinthedark，andthatheliveinallrespectssocompactlyandpreparedlythat，ifanenemytakethetown，hecan，liketheoldphilosopher，walkoutthegateempty-handedwithoutanxiety。Whileonethickgarmentis，formostpurposes，asgoodasthreethinones，andcheapclothingcanbeobtainedatpricesreallytosuitcustomers；whileathickcoatcanbeboughtforfivedollars，whichwilllastasmanyyears，thickpantaloonsfortwodollars，cowhidebootsforadollarandahalfapair，asummerhatforaquarterofadollar，andawintercapforsixty-twoandahalfcents，orabetterbemadeathomeatanominalcost，whereishesopoorthat，cladinsuchasuit，ofhisownearning，therewillnotbefoundwisementodohimreverence？
　　WhenIaskforagarmentofaparticularform，mytailoresstellsmegravely，“Theydonotmakethemsonow，“notemphasizingthe“They“atall，asifshequotedanauthorityasimpersonalastheFates，andIfinditdifficulttogetmadewhatIwant，simplybecauseshecannotbelievethatImeanwhatIsay，thatIamsorash。WhenIhearthisoracularsentence，Iamforamomentabsorbedinthought，emphasizingtomyselfeachwordseparatelythatImaycomeatthemeaningofit，thatImayfindoutbywhatdegreeofconsanguinityTheyarerelatedtome，andwhatauthoritytheymayhaveinanaffairwhichaffectsmesonearly；and，finally，Iaminclinedtoanswerherwithequalmystery，andwithoutanymoreemphasisofthe“they“——“Itistrue，theydidnotmakethemsorecently，buttheydonow。“Ofwhatusethismeasuringofmeifshedoesnotmeasuremycharacter，butonlythebreadthofmyshoulders，asitwereapegtobangthecoaton？WeworshipnottheGraces，northeParcae，butFashion。Shespinsandweavesandcutswithfullauthority。TheheadmonkeyatParisputsonatraveller’scap，andallthemonkeysinAmericadothesame。Isometimesdespairofgettinganythingquitesimpleandhonestdoneinthisworldbythehelpofmen。Theywouldhavetobepassedthroughapowerfulpressfirst，tosqueezetheiroldnotionsoutofthem，sothattheywouldnotsoongetupontheirlegsagain；andthentherewouldbesomeoneinthecompanywithamaggotinhishead，hatchedfromaneggdepositedtherenobodyknowswhen，fornotevenfirekillsthesethings，andyouwouldhavelostyourlabor。Nevertheless，wewillnotforgetthatsomeEgyptianwheatwashandeddowntousbyamummy。
　　Onthewhole，Ithinkthatitcannotbemaintainedthatdressinghasinthisoranycountryrisentothedignityofanart。Atpresentmenmakeshifttowearwhattheycanget。Likeshipwreckedsailors，theyputonwhattheycanfindonthebeach，andatalittledistance，whetherofspaceortime，laughateachother’smasquerade。Everygenerationlaughsattheoldfashions，butfollowsreligiouslythenew。WeareamusedatbeholdingthecostumeofHenryVIII，orQueenElizabeth，asmuchasifitwasthatoftheKingandQueenoftheCannibalIslands。Allcostumeoffamanispitifulorgrotesque。Itisonlytheseriouseyepeeringfromandthesincerelifepassedwithinitwhichrestrainlaughterandconsecratethecostumeofanypeople。LetHarlequinbetakenwithafitofthecolicandhistrappingswillhavetoservethatmoodtoo。
　　Whenthesoldierishitbyacannonball，ragsareasbecomingaspurple。
　　Thechildishandsavagetasteofmenandwomenfornewpatternskeepshowmanyshakingandsquintingthroughkaleidoscopesthattheymaydiscovertheparticularfigurewhichthisgenerationrequirestoday。Themanufacturershavelearnedthatthistasteismerelywhimsical。Oftwopatternswhichdifferonlybyafewthreadsmoreorlessofaparticularcolor，theonewillbesoldreadily，theotherlieontheshelf，thoughitfrequentlyhappensthatafterthelapseofaseasonthelatterbecomesthemostfashionable。