“Well,uponmyword,mydear,“hesaid,“Ithinkwe’vefallenprettylow。
I’veneverfeltsuchapoor,shabbyruffianbefore。Goodheavens!Tothinkofourimmortalsoulsbeingmovedtomirthbysuchathingasthis,——sostupid,sobarrenofallreasonoflaughter。Andthenthecrueltyofit!Whatferociousimbecilesweare!WhomhaveImarried?
Awomanwithneitherheartnorbrain!“
“OBasil,dear,payhimbackthemoney-do。“
“Ican’t。That’stheworstofit。He’smoneyenough,andmightjustlytakeoffense。Whatbreaksmyheartisthatwecouldhavethedepravitytosmileatthemistakeofafriendlessstranger,whosupposedhehadatlastmetwithanactofpurekindness。It’sathingtoweepover。Lookatthesegrinningwretches!Whatafiendisheffecttheirsmileshave,throughtheircindersandsweat!O,it’stheterribleweather;thedespotismofthedustandheat;thewickednessoftheinfernalair。Whatasqualidandloathsomecompany!“
AtBuffalo,wheretheyarrivedlate,theyfoundthemselveswithseveralhours’timeontheirhandsbeforethetrainstartedforNiagara,andinthefirstmomentsoftedium,Isabelforgotherselfintosaying,“Don’tyouthinkwe’dhavedonebettertogodirectlyfromRochestertotheFalls,insteadofcomingthisway?“
“Whycertainly。Ididn’tproposecomingthisway。“
“Iknowit,dear。Iwasonlyasking,“saidIsabel,meekly。“ButI
shouldthinkyou’dhavegenerosityenoughtotakealittleoftheblame,whenIwantedtocomeoutofaromanticfeelingforyou。“
Thisromanticfeelingreferredtothefactthat,manyyearsbefore,whenBasilmadehisfirstvisittoNiagara,hehadapproachedfromthewestbywayofBuffalo;andIsabel,whotenderlybegrudgedhishavingexistedbeforesheknewhim,andlongedtoallyherselfretrospectivelywithhispast,wasresolvedtodrawnearthegreatcataractbynootherroute。
Shefetchedalittlesighwhichmightmeantheweatherorhishard-
heartedness。Thesightouchedhim,andhesuggestedacarriage-ridethroughthecity;sheassentedwitheagerness,foritwaswhatshehadbeenthinkingof。Shehadneverseenalakesidecitybefore,andshewastakenbysurprise。“IfeverweleaveBoston,“shesaid,“wewillnotliveatRochester,asIthoughtlastnight;we’llcometoBuffalo。“Shefoundthattheplacehadallthepicturesquenessofasea-port,withouttheuglinessthatattendstherisingandfallingtides。Adeliciousfreshnessbreathedfromthelake,whichlyingsosmooth,fadedintotheskyatlast,withnolinebetweensharperthanthatwhichdividesdrowsingfromdreaming。Butthecolorwasthemostcharmingthing,thatdelicateblueofthelake,withoutthedepthofthesea-blue,butinfinitelysofterandlovelier。Thenearerexpansesrippledwithdaintywaves,silverandlucent;thefurtherlevelsmade,withthesun-dimmedsummersky,avaguehorizonofturquoiseandamethyst,litbythewhitesailsofships,andstainedbythesmokeofsteamers。
“Takemeawaynow,“saidIsabel,whenhereyeshadfeasteduponallthis,“anddon’tletmeseeanotherthingtillIgettoNiagara。Nothinglesssublimeisworthytheeyesthathavebeheldsuchbeauty。“
However,onthewaytoNiagarasheconsentedtoglimpsesoftheriverwhichcarriesthewatersofthelakefortheirmightyplunge,andwhichshowsitselfverynoblyfromtimetotimeasyoudrawtowardthecataract,withwoodedorcultivatedislands,andrichfarmsalongitslowshores,andatlastflashesupontheeyetheshiningwhiteoftherapids,——ahint,nomore,ofthesplendorandawfulnesstoberevealed。
VI。NIAGARA。
Asthetrainstopped,Isabel’sheartbeatwithachild-likeexultation,asIbelieveeveryone’sheartmustwhoisworthytoarriveatNiagara。
Shehadbeentryingtofancy,fromtimetotime,thatsheheardtheroarofthecataract,andnow,whenshealightedfromthecar,shewassuresheshouldhavehearditbutforthevulgarlittlenoisesthatattendthearrivaloftrainsatNiagaraaswellaseverywhereelse。“Nevermind,dearest;youshallbestunnedwithitbeforeyouleave,“promisedherhusband;and,notwhollydisconsolate,sherodethroughthequaintstreetsofthevillage,whereitremainsaquestionwhetherthelowlinessoftheshopsandprivatehousesmakesthehotelslooksovast,orthebignessofthehotelsdwarfsalltheotherbuildings。Theimmensecaravansariesswellingupfromamongthelittlebazaarswheretheysellfeatherfans,andminiaturebarkcanoes,andjarsandvasesandbraceletsandbroochescarvedoutofthelocalrocks,madeourfriendswiththeirtrunksveryconsciousoftheirdisproportiontotheaccommodationsofthesmallest。Theywerethesoleoccupantsoftheomnibus,andtheywereembarrassedtobereceivedattheirhotelwithaburstofminstrelsyfromawholebandofmusic。Isabelfeltthatasinglestringedinstrumentofsometimidnotewouldhavebeenenough;andBasilwasgoingtoexpresshisownmodestpreferenceforajew’s-harp,whenthemusicceasedwithasuddenclashofthecymbals。Butthenextmomentitburstoutwithfreshsweetness,andinalightingtheyperceivedthatanotheromnibushadturnedthecornerandwasdrawinguptothepillaredporticoofthehotel。Asmallfamilydismounted,andthefeetofthelasthadhardlytouchedthepavementwhenthemusicagainendedasabruptlyasthoseflourishesoftrumpetsthatusherplayer-kingsuponthestage。Isabelcouldnothelplaughingatthismelodiousparsimony。“Ihopetheydon’tletonthecataractandshutitoffinthisfrugalstyle;dothey,Basil?“sheasked,andpassedjestingthroughapompofunoccupiedportersandtallboys。Apparentlytherewerenotmanypeoplestoppingatthishotel,orelsetheywerealloutlookingattheFallsorconfinedtotheirrooms。However,ourtravellerstookinthealmostweirdemptinessoftheplacewiththeirusualgratitudetofortuneforallqueernessinlife,andfollowedtothepleasantquartersassignedthem。Therewastimebeforesupperforaglanceatthecataract,andafterabrieftoilettheysalliedoutagainupontheholidaystreet,withitsparadeofgaylittleshops,andthencepassedintothegrovebesidetheFalls,enjoyingateveryinstanttheirfeelingofarrivalatasublimedestination。
InthissenseNiagaradeservesalmosttorankwithRome,themetropolisofhistoryandreligion;withVenice,thechiefcityofsentimentandfantasy。Ineitheryouareatoncemadeathomebyaperceptionofitsgreatness,inwhichthereisnoqualityofaggression,astherealwaysseemstobeinminorplacesaswellasinminormen,andyougratefullyacceptitssublimityasafactinnowaycontrastingwithyourowninsignificance。
Ourfriendswerebesetofcoursebymanycarriage-drivers,whomtheyrepelledwiththekindlyfirmnessofexperiencedtravel。IsabelevenfeltacompassionforthesepoorfellowswhohadseenNiagarasomuchastohaveforgottenthatthefirsttimeonemustseeitaloneoronlywiththenextoffriendship。ShewasvolubleinherpityofBasilthatitwasnotasnewtohimastoher,tillbetweenthetreestheysawawhitecloudofspray,shotthroughandthroughwithsunset,rising,rising,andshefelthervoicesoftlyandsteadilybeatendownbythediapasonofthecataract。
IamnotsurebutthefirstemotiononviewingNiagaraisthatoffamiliarity。Everafter,itsstrangenessincreases;butinthatearliestmomentwhenyoustandbythesideoftheAmericanfall,andtakeinsomuchofthewholeasyourgiantscancompass,animpressionofhavingseenitoftenbeforeiscertainlyveryvivid。Thismaybeaneffectofthatgrandeurwhichputsyouatyoureaseinitspresence;butitalsoundoubtedlyresultsinpartfromlifelongacquaintancewitheveryvarietyoffutilepictureofthescene。Youhaveitsoutwardformclearlyinyourmemory;theshores,therapids,theislands,thecurveoftheFalls,andthestoutrainbowwithoneendrestingontheirtopandtheotherlostinthemiststhatrisefromthegulfbeneath。OnthewholeIdonotaccountthissortoffamiliarityamisfortune。Thesurpriseisnonethelessasurprisebecauseitiskepttillthelast,andthemarvel,makingitselffinallyfeltineverynerve,andnotatoncethroughasinglesense,allthemorefullypossessesyou。ItisasifNiagarareservedhermagnificence,andpreferredtowinyourheartwithherbeauty;andsoIsabel,whowasinstinctivelypreparedforthereverse,sufferedavaguedisappointment,foralittleinstant,asshelookedalongthevergefromthewaterthatcaressedtheshoreatherfeetbeforeitflungitselfdown,tothewoodedpointthatdividestheAmericanfromtheCanadianFall,beyondwhichshoweddimlythroughitsveilofgoldenandsilvermiststheemeraldwallofthegreatHorse-Shoe。“Howstillitis!“shesaid,amidsttheroarthatshookthegroundundertheirfeetandmadetheleavestrembleoverhead,and“Howlonesome!“amidstthepeopleloungingandsaunteringaboutineverydirectionamongthetrees。Infactthatprodigiouspresencedoesmakeasolitudeandsilenceroundeveryspiritworthytoperceiveit,anditgivesakindofdignitytoallitsbelongings,sothattherocksandpebblesinthewater’sedge,andtheweedsandgrassesthatnodaboveit,haveavaluefarbeyondthatofsuchcommonthingselsewhere。InalltheaspectsofNiagarathereseemsagravesimplicity,whichisperhapsareflectionofthespectator’ssoulforonceutterlydismantledofaffectationandconvention。Inthevulgarreactionfromthis,youareofcourseastrivial,ifyoulike,atNiagara,asanywhere。
SlowlyIsabelbecameawarethatthesacredgrovebesidethefallwasprofanedbysomeverycommonpresencesindeed,thattossedbitsofstoneandsticksintotheconsecratedwaters,andstruggledforhandkerchiefsandfans,andhereandthereputtheirarmsabouteachother’swaists,andmadeashowoflaughingandjoking。Theywereapicnicpartyofrude,sillyfolksoftheneighborhood,andshestoodponderingtheminsadwonderifanythingcouldbeworse,whensheheardavoicesayingtoBasil,“Takeyounext,Sir?Plentyoflightyet,andthewind’sdowntheriver,sothespraywon’tinterfere。Makeacapitalpictureofyou;
fallsinthebackground。“Itwasthelocalphotographerurgingthemtosucceedtheyoungcouplehehadjustposedatthebrink:thegentlemanwassittingdown,withhislegscrossedandhishandselegantlydisposed;
theladywasstandingathisside,withonearmthrownlightlyacrosshisshoulder,whilewiththeotherhandshethrusthiscaneintotheground;
youcouldseeitwasgoingtobeasplendidphotograph。
Basilthankedtheartist,andIsabelsaid,trustingasusualtohissympathyforperceptionofhertrainofthought,“Well,I’llnevertrytobehigh-strungagain。Butshouldn’tyouhavethought,dearest,thatI
mightexpecttobehigh-strungwithsuccessatNiagaraifanywhere?“
Shepassivelyfollowedhimintothelong,queer,downward-slopingedificeontheborderofthegrove,unflinchinglymountedthecarthatstoodready,anddescendedtheincline。Emergingintothelightagain,shefoundherselfatthefootofthefallbywhosetopshehadjuststood。