首页 >出版文学> The Theory of the Leisure Class>第15章
  Andstill,afterallallowancehasbeenmade,itappearsthatthecanonsofpecuniaryreputabilitydo,directlyorindirectly,materiallyaffectournotionsoftheattributesofdivinity,aswellasournotionsofwhatarethefitandadequatemannerandcircumstancesofdivinecommunion。Itisfeltthatthedivinitymustbeofapeculiarlysereneandleisurelyhabitoflife。Andwheneverhislocalhabitationispicturedinpoeticimagery,foredificationorinappealtothedevoutfancy,thedevoutword-painter,asamatterofcourse,bringsoutbeforehisauditors’imaginationathronewithaprofusionoftheinsigniaofopulenceandpower,andsurroundedbyagreatnumberofservitors。Inthecommonrunofsuchpresentationsofthecelestialabodes,theofficeofthiscorpsofservantsisavicariousleisure,theirtimeandeffortsbeingingreatmeasuretakenupwithanindustriallyunproductiverehearsalofthemeritoriouscharacteristicsandexploitsofthedivinity;whilethebackgroundofthepresentationisfilledwiththeshimmerofthepreciousmetalsandofthemoreexpensivevarietiesofpreciousstones。Itisonlyinthecrasserexpressionsofdevoutfancythatthisintrusionofpecuniarycanonsintothedevoutidealsreachessuchanextreme。AnextremecaseoccursinthedevoutimageryoftheNegropopulationoftheSouth。Theirword-paintersareunabletodescendtoanythingcheaperthangold;sothatinthiscasetheinsistenceonpecuniarybeautygivesastartlingeffectinyellow——suchaswouldbeunbearabletoasoberertaste。Still,thereisprobablynocultinwhichidealsofpecuniarymerithavenotbeencalledintosupplementtheidealsofceremonialadequacythatguidemen’sconceptionofwhatisrightinthematterofsacredapparatus。
  Similarlyitisfelt——andthesentimentisactedupon——
  thatthepriestlyservitorsofthedivinityshouldnotengageinindustriallyproductivework;thatworkofanykind——anyemploymentwhichisoftangiblehumanuse——mustnotbecarriedoninthedivinepresence,orwithintheprecinctsofthesanctuary;thatwhoevercomesintothepresenceshouldcomecleansedofallprofaneindustrialfeaturesinhisapparelorperson,andshouldcomecladingarmentsofmorethaneverydayexpensiveness;thatonholidayssetapartinhonoroforforcommunionwiththedivinitynoworkthatisofhumanuseshouldbeperformedbyanyone。Eventheremoter,laydependentsshouldrenderavicariousleisuretotheextentofonedayinseven。
  Inallthesedeliverancesofmen’suninstructedsenseofwhatisfitandproperindevoutobservanceandintherelationsofthedivinity,theeffectualpresenceofthecanonsofpecuniaryreputabilityisobviousenough,whetherthesecanonshavehadtheireffectonthedevoutjudgmentinthisrespectimmediatelyoratthesecondremove。
  Thesecanonsofreputabilityhavehadasimilar,butmorefar-reachingandmorespecificallydeterminable,effectuponthepopularsenseofbeautyorserviceabilityinconsumablegoods。
  Therequirementsofpecuniarydecencyhave,toaveryappreciableextent,influencedthesenseofbeautyandofutilityinarticlesofuseorbeauty。Articlesaretoanextentpreferredforuseonaccountoftheirbeingconspicuouslywasteful;theyarefelttobeserviceablesomewhatinproportionastheyarewastefulandilladaptedtotheirostensibleuse。
  Theutilityofarticlesvaluedfortheirbeautydependscloselyupontheexpensivenessofthearticles。Ahomelyillustrationwillbringoutthisdependence。Ahand-wroughtsilverspoon,ofacommercialvalueofsometentotwentydollars,isnotordinarilymoreserviceable——inthefirstsenseoftheword——thanamachine-madespoonofthesamematerial。Itmaynotevenbemoreserviceablethanamachine-madespoonofsome“base“metal,suchasaluminum,thevalueofwhichmaybenomorethansometentotwentycents。Theformerofthetwoutensilsis,infact,commonlyalesseffectivecontrivanceforitsostensiblepurposethanthelatter。Theobjectionisofcoursereadytohandthat,intakingthisviewofthematter,oneofthechiefuses,ifnotthechiefuse,ofthecostlierspoonisignored;thehand-wroughtspoongratifiesourtaste,oursenseofthebeautiful,whilethatmadebymachineryoutofthebasemetalhasnousefulofficebeyondabruteefficiency。Thefactsarenodoubtastheobjectionstatesthem,butitwillbeevidentonreJectionthattheobjectionisafterallmoreplausiblethanconclusive。Itappears1thatwhilethedifferentmaterialsofwhichthetwospoonsaremadeeachpossessesbeautyandserviceabilityforthepurposeforwhichitisused,thematerialofthehand-wroughtspoonissomeonehundredtimesmorevaluablethanthebasermetal,withoutverygreatlyexcellingthelatterinintrinsicbeautyofgrainorcolor,andwithoutbeinginanyappreciabledegreesuperiorinpointofmechanicalserviceability;2ifacloseinspectionshouldshowthatthesupposedhand-wroughtspoonwereinrealityonlyaveryclevercitationofhand-wroughtgoods,butanimitationsocleverlywroughtastogivethesameimpressionoflineandsurfacetoanybutaminuteexaminationbyatrainedeye,theutilityofthearticle,includingthegratificationwhichtheuserderivesfromitscontemplationasanobjectofbeauty,wouldimmediatelydeclinebysomeeightyorninetypercent,orevenmore;3ifthetwospoonsare,toafairlycloseobserver,sonearlyidenticalinappearancethatthelighterweightofthespuriousarticlealonebetraysit,thisidentityofformandcolorwillscarcelyaddtothevalueofthemachine-madespoon,norappreciablyenhancethegratificationoftheuser’s“senseofbeauty“incontemplatingit,solongasthecheaperspoonisnotanovelty,adsolongasitcanbeprocuredatanominalcost。
  Thecaseofthespoonsistypical。Thesuperiorgratificationderivedfromtheuseandcontemplationofcostlyandsupposedlybeautifulproductsis,commonly,ingreatmeasureagratificationofoursenseofcostlinessmasqueradingunderthenameofbeauty。Ourhigherappreciationofthesuperiorarticleisanappreciationofitssuperiorhonorificcharacter,muchmorefrequentlythanitisanunsophisticatedappreciationofitsbeauty。Therequirementofconspicuouswastefulnessisnotcommonlypresent,consciously,inourcanonsoftaste,butitisnonethelesspresentasaconstrainingnormselectivelyshapingandsustainingoursenseofwhatisbeautiful,andguidingourdiscriminationwithrespecttowhatmaylegitimatelybeapprovedasbeautifulandwhatmaynot。
  Itisatthispoint,wherethebeautifulandthehonorificmeetandblend,thatadiscriminationbetweenserviceabilityandwastefulnessismostdifficultinanyconcretecase。Itfrequentlyhappensthatanarticlewhichservesthehonorificpurposeofconspicuouswasteisatthesametimeabeautifulobject;andthesameapplicationoflabortowhichitowesitsutilityfortheformerpurposemay,andoftendoes,givebeautyofformandcolortothearticle。Thequestionisfurthercomplicatedbythefactthatmanyobjects,as,forinstance,thepreciousstonesandthemetalsandsomeothermaterialsusedforadornmentanddecoration,owetheirutilityasitemsofconspicuouswastetoanantecedentutilityasobjectsofbeauty。
  Gold,forinstance,hasahighdegreeofsensuousbeautyverymanyifnotmostofthehighlyprizedworksofartareintrinsicallybeautiful,thoughoftenwithmaterialqualification;thelikeistrueofsomestuffsusedforclothing,ofsomelandscapes,andofmanyotherthingsinlessdegree。
  Exceptforthisintrinsicbeautywhichtheypossess,theseobjectswouldscarcelyhavebeencovetedastheyare,orhavebecomemonopolizedobjectsofpridetotheirpossessorsandusers。Buttheutilityofthesethingstothepossessoriscommonlyduelesstotheirintrinsicbeautythantothehonorwhichtheirpossessionandconsumptionconfers,ortotheobloquywhichitwardsoff。
  Apartfromtheirserviceabilityinotherrespects,theseobjectsarebeautifulandhaveautilityassuch;theyarevaluableonthisaccountiftheycanbeappropriatedormonopolized;theyare,therefore,covetedasvaluablepossessions,andtheirexclusiveenjoymentgratifiesthepossessor’ssenseofpecuniarysuperiorityatthesametimethattheircontemplationgratifieshissenseofbeauty。Buttheirbeauty,inthenaivesenseoftheword,istheoccasionratherthanthegroundoftheirmonopolizationoroftheircommercialvalue。“Greatasisthesensuousbeautyofgems,theirrarityandpriceaddsanexpressionofdistinctiontothem,whichtheywouldneverhaveiftheywerecheap。“Thereis,indeed,inthecommonrunofcasesunderthishead,relativelylittleincentivetotheexclusivepossessionanduseofthesebeautifulthings,exceptonthegroundoftheirhonorificcharacterasitemsofconspicuouswaste。Mostobjectsofthisgeneralclass,withthepartialexceptionofarticlesofpersonaladornment,wouldserveallotherpurposesthanthehonorificoneequallywell,whetherownedbythepersonviewingthemornot;andevenasregardspersonalornamentsitistobeaddedthattheirchiefpurposeistolend衢醕lattothepersonoftheirwearerorownerbycomparisonwithotherpersonswhoarecompelledtodowithout。Theaestheticserviceabilityofobjectsofbeautyisnotgreatlynoruniversallyheightenedbypossession。
  Thegeneralizationforwhichthediscussionsofaraffordsgroundisthatanyvaluableobjectinordertoappealtooursenseofbeautymustconformtotherequirementsofbeautyandofexpensivenessboth。Butthisisnotall。Beyondthisthecanonofexpensivenessalsoaffectsourtastesinsuchawayastoinextricablyblendthemarksofexpensiveness,inourappreciation,withthebeautifulfeaturesoftheobject,andtosubsumetheresultanteffectundertheheadofanappreciationofbeautysimply。Themarksofexpensivenesscometobeacceptedasbeautifulfeaturesoftheexpensivearticles。Theyarepleasingasbeingmarksofhonorificcostliness,andthepleasurewhichtheyaffordonthisscoreblendswiththataffordedbythebeautifulformandcoloroftheobject;sothatweoftendeclarethatanarticleofapparel,forinstance,is“perfectlylovely,“
  whenprettymuchallthatananalysisoftheaestheticvalueofthearticlewouldleavegroundforisthedeclarationthatitispecuniarilyhonorific。
  Thisblendingandconfusionoftheelementsofexpensivenessandofbeautyis,perhaps,bestexemplifiedinarticlesofdressandofhouseholdfurniture。Thecodeofreputabilityinmattersofdressdecideswhatshapes,colors,materials,andgeneraleffectsinhumanapparelareforthetimetobeacceptedassuitable;anddeparturesfromthecodeareoffensivetoourtaste,supposedlyasbeingdeparturesfromaesthetictruth。Theapprovalwithwhichwelookuponfashionableattireisbynomeanstobeaccountedpuremake-believe。Wereadily,andforthemostpartwithuttersincerity,findthosethingspleasingthatareinvogue。Shaggydress-stuffsandpronouncedcoloreffects,forinstance,offendusattimeswhenthevogueisgoodsofahigh,glossyfinishandneutralcolors。Afancybonnetofthisyear’smodelunquestionablyappealstooursensibilitiestodaymuchmoreforciblythananequallyfancybonnetofthemodeloflastyear;althoughwhenviewedintheperspectiveofaquarterofacentury,itwould,Iapprehend,beamatteroftheutmostdifficultytoawardthepalmforintrinsicbeautytotheoneratherthantotheotherofthesestructures。So,again,itmayberemarkedthat,consideredsimplyintheirphysicaljuxtapositionwiththehumanform,thehighglossofagentleman’shatorofapatent-leathershoehasnomoreofintrinsicbeautythanasimiliarlyhighglossonathreadbaresleeve;andyetthereisnoquestionbutthatallwell-bredpeopleintheOccidentalcivilizedcommunitiesinstinctivelyandunaffectedlycleavetotheoneasaphenomenonofgreatbeauty,andeschewtheotherasoffensivetoeverysensetowhichitcanappeal。Itisextremelydoubtfulifanyonecouldbeinducedtowearsuchacontrivanceasthehighhatofcivilizedsociety,exceptforsomeurgentreasonbasedonotherthanaestheticgrounds。
  Byfurtherhabituationtoanappreciativeperceptionofthemarksofexpensivenessingoods,andbyhabituallyidentifyingbeautywithreputability,itcomesaboutthatabeautifularticlewhichisnotexpensiveisaccountednotbeautiful。Inthiswayithashappened,forinstance,thatsomebeautifulflowerspassconventionallyforoffensiveweeds;othersthatcanbecultivatedwithrelativeeaseareacceptedandadmiredbythelowermiddleclass,whocanaffordnomoreexpensiveluxuriesofthiskind;
  butthesevarietiesarerejectedasvulgarbythosepeoplewhoarebetterabletopayforexpensiveflowersandwhoareeducatedtoahigherscheduleofpecuniarybeautyintheflorist’sproducts;whilestillotherflowers,ofnogreaterintrinsicbeautythanthese,arecultivatedatgreatcostandcalloutmuchadmirationfromflower-loverswhosetasteshavebeenmaturedunderthecriticalguidanceofapoliteenvironment。
  Thesamevariationinmattersoftaste,fromoneclassofsocietytoanother,isvisiblealsoasregardsmanyotherkindsofconsumablegoods,as,forexample,isthecasewithfurniture,houses,parks,andgardens。Thisdiversityofviewsastowhatisbeautifulinthesevariousclassesofgoodsisnotadiversityofthenormaccordingtowhichtheunsophisticatedsenseofthebeautifulworks。Itisnotaconstitutionaldifferenceofendowmentsintheaestheticrespect,butratheradifferenceinthecodeofreputabilitywhichspecifieswhatobjectsproperlyliewithinthescopeofhonorificconsumptionfortheclasstowhichthecriticbelongs。Itisadifferenceinthetraditionsofproprietywithrespecttothekindsofthingswhichmay,withoutderogationtotheconsumer,beconsumedundertheheadofobjectsoftasteandart。Withacertainallowanceforvariationstobeaccountedforonothergrounds,thesetraditionsaredetermined,moreorlessrigidly,bythepecuniaryplaneoflifeoftheclass。