Ibelievethattheinteriorofthiscountrypresentsamuchmoreinvitingfieldforthephilanthropistthandoesthewestcoast,wheremissionariesoftheChurchMissionary,UnitedPresbyterian,andothersocietieshavelonglaboredwithmostastonishingdevotednessandnever-flaggingzealTherethefeversaremuchmorevirulentandmorespeedilyfatalthanhere,forfrom8Degsouththeyalmostinvariablytaketheintermittentorleastfataltype;
andtheireffectbeingtoenlargethespleen,acomplaintwhichisbesttreatedbychangeofclimate,wehavetheremedyathandbypassingthe20thparallelonourwaysouthButIamnottobeunderstoodasintimatingthatanyofthenumeroustribesareanxiousforinstruction:
theyarenottheinquiringspiritswereadofinothercountries;
theydonotdesiretheGospel,becausetheyknownothingabouteitheritoritsbenefits;butthereisnoimpedimentinthewayofinstruction。
EveryheadmanwouldbeproudofaEuropeanvisitororresidentinhisterritory,andthereisperfectsecurityforlifeandpropertyallovertheinteriorcountryThegreatbarrierswhichhavekeptAfricashutaretheunhealthinessofthecoast,andtheexclusive,illiberaldispositionofthebordertribesIthasnotwithinthehistoricperiodbeencutintobydeeparmsofthesea,andonlyasmallfringeofitspopulationhavecomeintocontactwiththerestofmankindRacehasmuchtodointhepresentcircumstancesofnations;yetitisprobablethattheunhealthycoast-climatehasreactedonthepeople,andaidedbothinperpetuatingtheirowndegradationandpreventingthosemoreinlandfromhavingintercoursewiththerestoftheworldItistobehopedthattheseobstacleswillbeovercomebythemorerapidmeansoflocomotionpossessedinthepresentage,ifagoodhighwaycanbecomeavailablefromthecoastintotheinterior。
Havingfounditimpracticabletoopenupacarriage-pathtothewest,itbecameaquestionastowhichpartoftheeastcoastweshoulddirectourstepsTheArabshadcomefromZanzibarthroughapeacefulcountryTheyassuredmethatthepowerfulchiefsbeyondtheCazembeontheN。E。,viz。,Moatutu,Moaroro,andMogogo,chiefsofthetribesBatutu,Baroro,andBagogo,wouldhavenoobjectiontomypassingthroughtheircountryTheydescribedthepopulationthereaslocatedinsmallvillagesliketheBalonda,andthatnodifficultyisexperiencedintravelingamongthemTheymentionedalsothat,atadistanceoftendaysbeyondCazembe,theirpathwindsroundtheendofLakeTanganyenkaButwhentheyreachthislake,alittletothenorthwestofitssouthernextremity,theyfindnodifficultyinobtainingcanoestocarrythemoverTheysleeponislands,foritissaidtorequirethreedaysincrossing,andmaythusbefortyorfiftymilesbroad。
Heretheypuntthecanoesthewholeway,showingthatitisshallow。
Therearemanysmallstreamsinthepath,andthreelargerivers。
This,then,appearedtometobethesafest;butmypresentobjectbeingapathadmittingofwaterratherthanlandcarriage,thisroutedidnotpromisesomuchasthatbywayoftheZambesiorLeeambye。
TheMakololoknewallthecountryeastwardasfarastheKafue,fromhavinglivedinformertimesneartheconfluenceofthatriverwiththeZambesi,andtheyalladvisedthispathinpreferencetothatbythewayofZanzibarTheonlydifficultythattheyassuredmeofwasthatinthefallsofVictoriaSomerecommendedmygoingtoSesheke,andcrossingoverinaN。EdirectiontotheKafue,whichisonlysixdaysdistant,anddescendingthatrivertotheZambesi。
OthersrecommendedmetogoonthesouthbankoftheZambesiuntilIhadpassedthefalls,thengetcanoesandproceedfartherdowntheriver。
Allspokestronglyofthedifficultiesoftravelingonthenorthbank,onaccountoftheexcessivelybrokenandrockynatureofthecountryneartheriveronthatsideAndwhenPonuane,whohadlatelyheadedaforaythere,proposedthatIshouldcarrycanoesalongthatsidetillwereachedthespotwheretheLeeambyebecomesbroadandplacidagain,othersdeclaredthat,fromthedifficultieshehimselfhadexperiencedinforcingthemenofhisexpeditiontodothis,theybelievedthatminewouldbesuretodesertmeifIattemptedtoimposesuchataskuponthem。
Anotherobjectiontotravelingoneitherbankoftheriverwastheprevalenceofthetsetse,whichissoabundantthattheinhabitantscankeepnodomesticanimalsexceptgoats。
Whileponderingoverthesedifferentpaths,IcouldnothelpregrettingmybeingaloneIfIhadenjoyedthecompanyofmyformercompanion,MrOswell,oneofusmighthavetakentheZambesi,andtheothergonebywayofZanzibarThelatterroutewasdecidedlytheeasiest,becausealltheinlandtribeswerefriendly,whilethetribesinthedirectionoftheZambesiwereinimical,andIshouldnowbeobligedtoleadaparty,whichtheBatokaofthatcountryviewashostileinvaders,throughanenemy’sland;but,astheprospectofpermanentwater-conveyancewasgood,IdecidedongoingdowntheZambesi,andkeepingonthenorthbank,because,inthemapgivenbyBowditch,Tete,thefarthestinlandstationofthePortuguese,iserroneouslyplacedonthatside。
BeingneartheendofSeptember,therainswereexpecteddaily;
thecloudswerecollecting,andthewindblewstronglyfromtheeast,butitwasexcessivelyhotAlltheMakololourgedmestronglytoremaintillthegroundshouldbecooledbytherains;andasitwasprobablethatIshouldgetfeverifIcommencedmyjourneynow,Iresolvedtowait。
Thepartsofthecountryabout17Degand18DegsufferfromdroughtandbecomedustyItisbutthecommencementofthehumidregiontothenorth,andpartakesoccasionallyofthecharacterofboththewetanddryregionsSomeideamaybeformedoftheheatinOctoberbythefactthatthethermometerprotectedstood,intheshadeofmywagon,at100DegthroughthedayItroseto110Degifunprotectedfromthewind;atdarkitshowed89Deg。;at10o’clock,80Deg。;
andthengraduallysunktillsunrise,whenitwas70DegThatisusuallytheperiodofgreatestcoldineachtwenty-fourhoursinthisregion。
Thenatives,duringtheperiodofgreatestheat,keepintheirhuts,whicharealwayspleasantlycoolbyday,butcloseandsuffocatingbynight。
Thosewhoareabletoafforditsitguzzlingbeerorboyaloa。
Theperspirationproducedbycopiousdraughtsseemstogiveenjoyment,theevaporationcausingafeelingofcoolnessTheattendantsofthechief,ontheseoccasions,keepupacontinuousroarofbantering,raillery,laughing,andswearingThedanceiskeptupinthemoonlighttillpastmidnightThewomenstandclappingtheirhandscontinuously,andtheoldmensitadmiringly,andsay,“Itisreallyveryfine。”Ascrowdscametoseeme,Iemployedmuchofmytimeinconversation,thatbeingagoodmodeofconveyinginstructionInthepublicmeetingsforworshipthepeoplelistenedveryattentively,andbehavedwithmoredecorumthanformerlyTheyreallyformaveryinvitingfieldforamissionary。
Surelytheoft-toldtaleofthegoodnessandloveofourheavenlyFather,ingivinguphisownSontodeathforussinners,will,bythepowerofhisHolySpirit,begetloveinsomeoftheseheathenhearts。
1STOCTOBERBeforeBenHabibstartedforLoanda,heaskedthedaughterofSebituaneinmarriageThisistheplantheArabsadoptforgaininginfluenceinatribe,andtheyhavebeenknowntoproceedthuscautiouslytoformconnections,andgraduallygainsomuchinfluenceastodrawallthetribeovertotheirreligion。
Ineverheardofanypersecution,althoughtheArabswithwhomIcameincontactseemedmuchattachedtotheirreligion。
ThisdaughterofSebituane,namedManchunyane,wasabouttwelveyearsofage。
AsIwasthebosom-friendofherfather,Iwassupposedtohaveavoiceinherdisposal,and,onbeingasked,objectedtoherbeingtakenaway,weknewnotwhither,andwherewemightneverseeheragain。
Ashernameimplies,shewasonlyalittleblack,and,besidesbeingasfairasanyoftheArabs,hadquitetheArabfeatures;butIhavenodoubtthatBenHabibwillrenewhissuitmoresuccessfullyonsomeotheroccasion。
Inthesecasesofmarriage,theconsentoftheyoungwomenisseldomasked。
Amaid-servantofSekeletu,however,pronouncedbytheMakololotobegood-looking,wasatthistimesoughtinmarriagebyfiveyoungmen。
Sekeletu,happeningtobeatmywagonwhenoneofthesepreferredhissuit,verycoollyorderedallfivetostandinarowbeforetheyoungwoman,thatshemightmakeherchoiceTworefusedtostand,apparently,becausetheycouldnotbrooktheideaofarepulse,althoughwillingenoughtotakeherifSekeletuhadaccededtotheirpetitionwithoutreferencetoherwillThreedandifiedfellowsstoodforth,andsheunhesitatinglydecidedontakingonewhowasreallythebestlookingItwasamusingtoseethemortificationexhibitedontheblackfacesoftheunsuccessfulcandidates,whilethespectatorsgreetedthemwithaheartylaugh。
DuringthewholeofmystaywiththeMakololo,Sekeletusuppliedmywantsabundantly,appointingsomecowstofurnishmewithmilk,and,whenhewentouttohunt,senthomeordersforslaughteredoxentobegivenThatthefoodwasnotgiveninaniggardlyspiritmaybeinferredfromthefactthat,whenIproposedtodepartonthe20thofOctober,heprotestedagainstmygoingoffinsuchahotsun。
“Onlywait。”saidhe,“forthefirstshower,andthenIwillletyougo。”
Thiswasreasonable,forthethermometer,placeduponadealboxinthesun,roseto138DegItstoodat108Degintheshadebyday,and96DegatsunsetIfmyexperimentswerecorrect,thebloodofaEuropeanisofahighertemperaturethanthatofanAfrican。
Thebulb,heldundermytongue,stoodat100Deg。;underthatofthenatives,at98DegTherewasmuchsicknessinthetown,andnowonder,forpartofthewaterleftbytheinundationstillformedalargepondinthecentreEventheplainsbetweenLinyantiandSeshekehadnotyetbeenfreedfromthewatersoftheinundationTheyhadrisenhigherthanusual,andforalongtimecanoespassedfromtheoneplacetotheother,adistanceofupwardof120miles,innearlyastraightline。
Wefoundmanypatchesofstagnantwater,which,whendisturbedbyourpassingthroughthem,evolvedstrongeffluviaofsulphuretedhydrogen。
Atothertimesthesespotsexhibitanefflorescenceofthenitrateofsoda;
theyalsocontainabundanceoflime,probablyfromdecayingvegetablematter,andfromthesemayhaveemanatedthemalariawhichcausedthepresentsicknessIhaveoftenremarkedthiseffluviuminsicklyspots,andcannothelpbelievingbutthatithassomeconnectionwithfever,thoughIamquiteawareofDrMacWilliams’sunsuccessfuleffortstodiscoversulphuretedhydrogen,bythemostdelicatetests,intheNigerexpedition。
Ihadplentyofemployment,for,besidesattendingtotheseverercases,IhadperpetualcallsonmyattentionThetowncontainedatleast7000inhabitants,andeveryonethoughtthathemightcome,andatleastlookatmeIntalkingwithsomeofthemoreintelligentintheevenings,theconversationhavingturnedfrominquiriesrespectingeclipsesofthesunandmoontothatotherworldwhereJesusreigns,theyletmeknowthatmyattemptstoenlightenthemhadnotbeenwithoutsomesmalleffect“Manyofthechildren。”saidthey,“talkaboutthestrangethingsyoubringtotheirears,buttheoldmenshowalittleoppositionbysaying,`Doweknowwhatheistalkingabout?’“
Ntlariaandotherscomplainoftreacherousmemories,andsay,“Whenwehearwordsaboutotherthings,weholdthemfast;
butwhenwehearyoutellmuchmorewonderfulthingsthananywehaveeverheardbefore,wedon’tknowhowitis,theyrunawayfromourhearts。”
ThesearethemoreintelligentofmyMakololofriends。
Onthemajoritytheteachingproducesnoappreciableeffect;
theyassenttothetruthwiththemostperplexingindifference,adding,“Butwedon’tknow。”or,“Wedonotunderstand。”
MymedicalintercoursewiththemenabledmetoascertaintheirmoralstatusbetterthanamerereligiousteachercoulddoTheydonotattempttohidetheevil,asmenoftendo,fromtheirspiritualinstructors;
butIhavefounditdifficulttocometoaconclusionontheircharacter。
Theysometimesperformactionsremarkablygood,andsometimesasstrangelytheoppositeIhavebeenunabletoascertainthemotiveforthegood,oraccountforthecallousnessofconsciencewithwhichtheyperpetratethebadAfterlongobservation,IcametotheconclusionthattheyarejustsuchastrangemixtureofgoodandevilasmenareeverywhereelseThereisnotamongthemanapproachtothatconstantstreamofbenevolenceflowingfromtherichtothepoorwhichwehaveinEngland,noryettheunostentatiousattentionswhichwehaveamongourownpoortoeachotherYettherearefrequentinstancesofgenuinekindnessandliberality,aswellasactionsofanoppositecharacterTherichshowkindnesstothepoorinexpectationofservices,andapoorpersonwhohasnorelativeswillseldombesuppliedevenwithwaterinillness,and,whendead,willbedraggedouttobedevouredbythehyaenasinsteadofbeingburied。