首页 >出版文学> Travels and Researches in South Africa>第74章
  Theseasonofthesechanges,whichisthemostfavorableforEuropeans,isthemostunhealthyforthenativepopulation;andthisisbynomeansaclimateinwhicheithernativesorEuropeanscanindulgeinirregularitieswithimpunity。
  Owingtotheweaknessofthemenwhohadbeensick,wewereabletomarchbutshortdistancesThreehoursandahalfbroughtustothebanksoftheCaloi,asmallstreamwhichflowsintotheSenza。
  Thisisoneofthepartsofthecountryreputedtoyieldpetroleum,butthegeologicalformation,beingmicaschist,dippingtowardtheeastward,didnotpromisemuchforourfindingitOurhospitablefriend,MrMellot,accompaniedustoanotherlittleriver,calledtheQuango,whereIsawtwofineboys,thesonsofthesub-commandant,MrFeltao,who,thoughonlyfromsixtoeightyearsold,weresubjecttofever。
  Wethenpassedoninthebrightsunlight,thewholecountrylookingsofreshandgreenaftertherains,andeverythingsocheering,onecouldnotbutwondertofinditsofeverish。
  Wefound,onreachingAmbaca,thatthegallantoldsoldier,LaurenceJoseMarquis,had,sinceourpassingIcolloiBengo,beenpromoted,onaccountofhissternintegrity,tothegovernmentofthisimportantdistrictTheofficeofcommandantismuchcovetedbytheofficersofthelinewhocometoAngola,notsomuchforthesalaryasfortheperquisites,which,whenmanagedskillfully,inthecourseofafewyearsmakeonerichAnideamaybeformedoftheconductofsomeoftheseofficialsfromthefollowingextractfromtheBoletinofLoandaofthe28thofOctober,1854:
  “Theactinggovernor-generaloftheprovinceofAngolaanditsdependenciesdeterminesasfollows:
  “HavinginstitutedaninvestigationSyndecanciaagainstthecommandantofthefortof,acaptainofthearmyofPortugalincommissioninthisprovince,,onaccountofnumerouscomplaints,whichhavecomebeforethisgovernment,ofviolencesandextortionspracticedbythesaidcommandant,andthosecomplaintsappearingbytheresultoftheinvestigationtobewellfounded,itwillbeconvenienttoexoneratethecaptainreferredtofromthecommandofthefortof,towhichhehadbeennominatedbytheportfolioofthisgeneralgovernment,No41,of27thDecemberofthepastyear;andifnototherwisedetermined,thesameofficialshallbejudgedbyacouncilofwarforthecriminalactswhicharetohimattributed。”
  Eventhispublicmentionofhiscrimesattachesnostigmatotheman’scharacterThecouncilofwar,bywhichthesedelinquentsalwaysprefertobejudged,iscomposedofmenwhoeagerlyexpecttooccupythepostofcommandantthemselves,andanticipatetheirowntrialforsimilaractsatsomefuturetimeTheseverestsentenceacouncilofwarawardsisafewweeks’suspensionfromofficeinhisregiment。
  Thiswantofofficialintegrity,whichisnotatallattributabletothehomegovernmentofPortugal,wouldproveaseriousimpedimentinthewayofforeignenterprisedevelopingtheresourcesofthisrichprovince。
  Andtothiscause,indeed,maybeascribedthefailureofthePortugueselawsfortheentiresuppressionoftheslave-tradeTheofficersoughttoreceivehigherpay,ifintegrityisexpectedfromthemAtpresent,acaptain’spayforayearwillonlykeephimingooduniform。
  Thehighpayourownofficersreceivehasmanifestadvantages。
  BeforeleavingAmbacawereceivedapresentoftenheadofcattlefromMrSchutofLoanda,and,asitshowsthecheapnessofprovisionshere,Imaymentionthatthecostwasonlyaboutaguineaperhead。
  OncrossingtheLucallawemadeadetourtothesouth,inordertovisitthefamousrocksofPungoAndongoAssoonaswecrossedtherivuletLotete,achangeinthevegetationofthecountrywasapparentWefoundtreesidenticalwiththosetobeseensouthoftheChobeThegrass,too,standsintufts,andisofthatkindwhichthenativesconsidertobebestadaptedforcattleTwospeciesofgrape-bearingvinesaboundeverywhereinthisdistrict,andtheinfluenceofthegoodpasturageisseenintheplumpconditionofthecattleInallmypreviousinquiriesrespectingthevegetableproductsofAngola,IwasinvariablydirectedtoPungoAndongoDoyougrowwheat?“Oh,yes,inPungoAndongo。”
  Grapes,figs,orpeaches?“Oh,yes,inPungoAndongo。”
  Doyoumakebutter,cheese,etc。?Theuniformanswerwas,“Oh,yes,thereisabundanceofalltheseinPungoAndongo。”
  Butwhenwearrivedhere,wefoundthattheanswersallreferredtotheactivityofoneman,ColonelManuelAntonioPires。
  Thepresenceofthewildgrapeshowsthatvineyardsmightbecultivatedwithsuccess;thewheatgrowswellwithoutirrigation;
  andanyonewhotastedthebutterandcheeseatthetableofColonelPireswouldpreferthemtothestaleproduceoftheIrishdairy,ingeneralusethroughoutthatprovinceThecattleinthiscountryareseldommilked,onaccountofthestrongprejudicewhichthePortugueseentertainagainsttheuseofmilkTheybelievethatitmaybeusedwithsafetyinthemorning,but,iftakenaftermidday,thatitwillcausefever。
  Itseemedtomethattherewasnotmuchreasonforcarefullyavoidingafewdropsintheircoffee,afterhavingdevouredtentimestheamountintheshapeofcheeseatdinner。
  ThefortofPungoAndongolat9d42’14“S。,long15d30’E。
  issituatedinthemidstofagroupofcuriouscolumnar-shapedrocks,eachofwhichisupwardofthreehundredfeetinheightTheyarecomposedofconglomerate,madeupofagreatvarietyofroundedpiecesinamatrixofdarkredsandstoneTheyrestonathickstratumofthislastrock,withveryfewofthepebblesinitssubstance。
  Onthisafossilpalmhasbeenfound,andifofthesameageasthoseontheeasternsideofthecontinent,onwhichsimilarpalmsnowlie,theremaybecoalunderneaththis,aswellasunderthatatTete。
  TheassertedexistenceofpetroleumspringsatDande,andnearCambambe,wouldseemtoindicatethepresenceofthisusefulmineral,thoughIamnotawareofanyonehavingactuallyseenaseamofcoaltilteduptothesurfaceinAngola,aswehaveatTete。
  ThegiganticpillarsofPungoAndongohavebeenformedbyacurrentoftheseacomingfromtheS。S。E。;for,seenfromthetop,theyappeararrangedinthatdirection,andmusthavewithstoodthesurgesoftheoceanataperiodofourworld’shistory,whentherelationsoflandandseaweretotallydifferentfromwhattheyarenow,andlongbefore“themorningstarssangtogether,andallthesonsofGodshoutedforjoytoseetheabodespreparedwhichmanwassoontofill。”
  Theimbeddedpiecesintheconglomerateareofgneiss,clayshale,micaandsandstoneschists,trap,andporphyry,mostofwhicharelargeenoughtogivethewholetheappearanceofbeingtheonlyremainingvestigesofvastprimaevalbanksofshingleSeverallittlestreamsrunamongtheserocks,andinthecentralpartofthepillarsstandsthevillage,completelyenvironedbywell-nighinaccessiblerocks。
  Thepathwaysintothevillagemightbedefendedbyasmallbodyoftroopsagainstanarmy;andthisplacewaslongthestrongholdofthetribecalledJinga,theoriginalpossessorsofthecountry。
  Wewereshownafootprintcarvedononeoftheserocks。
  Itisspokenofasthatofafamousqueen,whoreignedoverallthisregion。
  Inlookingattheserudeattemptsatcommemoration,onefeelsthevalueoflettersInthehistoryofAngolawefindthatthefamousqueenDonnaAnnadeSouzacamefromthevicinity,asembassadressfromherbrother,GolaBandy,KingoftheJinga,toLoanda,in1621,tosueforpeace,andastonishedthegovernorbythereadinessofheranswersThegovernorproposed,asaconditionofpeace,thepaymentbytheJingaofanannualtribute。
  “Peopletalkoftributeaftertheyhaveconquered,andnotbeforeit;
  wecometotalkofpeace,notofsubjection。”wasthereadyanswer。
  ThegovernorwasasmuchnonplussedasourCapegovernorsoftenarewhentheytelltheCaffres“toputitalldowninwriting,andtheywillthenbeabletoanswerthem。”SheremainedsometimeinLoanda,gainedallshesought,and,afterbeingtaughtbythemissionaries,wasbaptized,andreturnedtoherowncountrywithhonor。
  Shesucceededtothekingdomonthedeathofherbrother,whomitwassupposedshepoisoned,butinasubsequentwarwiththePortugueseshelostnearlyallherarmyinagreatbattlefoughtin1627。
  ShereturnedtotheChurchafteralongperiodofapostasy,anddiedinextremeoldage;andtheJingastillliveasanindependentpeopletothenorthofthistheirancientcountryNoAfricantribehaseverbeendestroyed。
  InformertimesthePortugueseimaginedthatthisplacewasparticularlyunhealthy,andbanishmenttotheblackrocksofPungoAndongowasthoughtbytheirjudgestobeamuchseverersentencethantransportationtoanypartofthecoast;butthisdistrictisnowwellknowntobethemosthealthypartofAngola。
  Thewaterisremarkablypure,thesoilislight,andthecountryopenandundulating,withageneralslopedowntowardtheRiverCoanza,afewmilesdistantThatriveristhesouthernboundaryofthePortuguese,andbeyond,totheSandS。W。,weseethehighmountainsoftheLibollo。
  OntheS。Ewehavealsoamountainouscountry,inhabitedbytheKimbondaorAmbonda,whoaresaidbyColonelPirestobeaverybraveandindependentpeople,buthospitableandfairintheirdealingsTheyarerichincattle,andtheircountryproducesmuchbeeswax,whichiscarefullycollected,andbroughttothePortuguese,withwhomtheyhavealwaysbeenongoodterms。
  TheAkoHaco,abranchofthisfamily,inhabittheleftbankoftheCoanzaabovethisvillage,who,insteadofbringingslavesforsale,asformerly,nowoccasionallybringwaxforthepurchaseofaslavefromthePortuguese。
  Isawaboysoldfortwelveshillings:hesaidthathebelongedtothecountryofMatiamvoHereIboughtapairofwell-madeboots,ofgoodtannedleather,whichreachedabovetheknee,forfiveshillingsandeightpence,andthatwasjustthepricegivenforonepoundofivorybyMrPires;consequently,theboywasworthtwopairsofboots,ortwopoundsofivoryTheLibolloontheShavenotsogoodacharacter,buttheCoanzaisalwaysdeepenoughtoformalineofdefense。
  ColonelPiresisagoodexampleofwhatanhonestindustriousmaninthiscountrymaybecomeHecameasaservantinaship,and,byalongcourseofperseveringlabor,hasraisedhimselftobetherichestmerchantinAngolaHepossessessomethousandsofcattle;
  and,onanyemergency,canappearinthefieldwithseveralhundredarmedslaves。
  Whileenjoyingthehospitalityofthismerchant-princeinhiscommodiousresidence,whichisoutsidetherocks,andcommandsabeautifulviewofalltheadjacentcountry,Ilearnedthatallmydispatches,maps,andjournalhadgonetothebottomoftheseainthemail-packet“Forerunner“IfeltsogladthatmyfriendLieutenantBedingfeld,towhosecareIhadcommittedthem,thoughinthemostimminentdanger,hadnotsharedasimilarfate,thatIwasatoncereconciledtothelaborofrewritingIavailedmyselfofthekindnessofColonelPires,andremainedtilltheendoftheyearreproducingmylostpapers。
  ColonelPireshavinganotherestablishmentonthebanksoftheCoanza,aboutsixmilesdistant,IvisiteditwithhimaboutonceaweekforthepurposeofrecreationThedifferenceoftemperaturecausedbytheloweraltitudewasseeninthecashew-trees;
  forwhile,neartherocks,thesetreeswerebutcomingintoflower,thoseatthelowerstationwereripeningtheirfruit。
  Cocoanuttreesandbananasbearwellatthelowerstation,butyieldlittleornofruitattheupperThedifferenceindicatedbythethermometerwas7DegThegeneralrangeneartherockswas67Degat7A。M。,74Degatmidday,and72Degintheevening。
  Aslave-boybelongingtoColonelPires,havingstolenandeatensomelemonsintheevening,wenttotherivertowashhismouth,soasnottobedetectedbytheflavorAnalligatorseizedhimandcarriedhimtoanislandinthemiddleofthestream;theretheboygraspedholdofthereeds,andbaffledalltheeffortsofthereptiletodislodgehim,tillhiscompanions,attractedbyhiscries,cameinacanoetohisassistanceThealligatoratonceletgohishold;
  for,whenoutofhisownelement,heiscowardlyTheboyhadmanymarksoftheteethinhisabdomenandthigh,andthoseoftheclawsonhislegsandarms。
  TheslavesinColonelPires’establishmentsappearedmorelikefreeservantsthananyIhadelsewhereseenEverythingwasneatandclean,whilegenerally,whereslavesaretheonlydomestics,thereisanaspectofslovenliness,asiftheywentontheprincipleofalwaysdoingaslittlefortheirmastersaspossible。