Theseasonofthesechanges,whichisthemostfavorableforEuropeans,isthemostunhealthyforthenativepopulation;andthisisbynomeansaclimateinwhicheithernativesorEuropeanscanindulgeinirregularitieswithimpunity。
Owingtotheweaknessofthemenwhohadbeensick,wewereabletomarchbutshortdistancesThreehoursandahalfbroughtustothebanksoftheCaloi,asmallstreamwhichflowsintotheSenza。
Thisisoneofthepartsofthecountryreputedtoyieldpetroleum,butthegeologicalformation,beingmicaschist,dippingtowardtheeastward,didnotpromisemuchforourfindingitOurhospitablefriend,MrMellot,accompaniedustoanotherlittleriver,calledtheQuango,whereIsawtwofineboys,thesonsofthesub-commandant,MrFeltao,who,thoughonlyfromsixtoeightyearsold,weresubjecttofever。
Wethenpassedoninthebrightsunlight,thewholecountrylookingsofreshandgreenaftertherains,andeverythingsocheering,onecouldnotbutwondertofinditsofeverish。
Wefound,onreachingAmbaca,thatthegallantoldsoldier,LaurenceJoseMarquis,had,sinceourpassingIcolloiBengo,beenpromoted,onaccountofhissternintegrity,tothegovernmentofthisimportantdistrictTheofficeofcommandantismuchcovetedbytheofficersofthelinewhocometoAngola,notsomuchforthesalaryasfortheperquisites,which,whenmanagedskillfully,inthecourseofafewyearsmakeonerichAnideamaybeformedoftheconductofsomeoftheseofficialsfromthefollowingextractfromtheBoletinofLoandaofthe28thofOctober,1854:
“Theactinggovernor-generaloftheprovinceofAngolaanditsdependenciesdeterminesasfollows:
“HavinginstitutedaninvestigationSyndecanciaagainstthecommandantofthefortof,acaptainofthearmyofPortugalincommissioninthisprovince,,onaccountofnumerouscomplaints,whichhavecomebeforethisgovernment,ofviolencesandextortionspracticedbythesaidcommandant,andthosecomplaintsappearingbytheresultoftheinvestigationtobewellfounded,itwillbeconvenienttoexoneratethecaptainreferredtofromthecommandofthefortof,towhichhehadbeennominatedbytheportfolioofthisgeneralgovernment,No41,of27thDecemberofthepastyear;andifnototherwisedetermined,thesameofficialshallbejudgedbyacouncilofwarforthecriminalactswhicharetohimattributed。”
Eventhispublicmentionofhiscrimesattachesnostigmatotheman’scharacterThecouncilofwar,bywhichthesedelinquentsalwaysprefertobejudged,iscomposedofmenwhoeagerlyexpecttooccupythepostofcommandantthemselves,andanticipatetheirowntrialforsimilaractsatsomefuturetimeTheseverestsentenceacouncilofwarawardsisafewweeks’suspensionfromofficeinhisregiment。
Thiswantofofficialintegrity,whichisnotatallattributabletothehomegovernmentofPortugal,wouldproveaseriousimpedimentinthewayofforeignenterprisedevelopingtheresourcesofthisrichprovince。
Andtothiscause,indeed,maybeascribedthefailureofthePortugueselawsfortheentiresuppressionoftheslave-tradeTheofficersoughttoreceivehigherpay,ifintegrityisexpectedfromthemAtpresent,acaptain’spayforayearwillonlykeephimingooduniform。
Thehighpayourownofficersreceivehasmanifestadvantages。
BeforeleavingAmbacawereceivedapresentoftenheadofcattlefromMrSchutofLoanda,and,asitshowsthecheapnessofprovisionshere,Imaymentionthatthecostwasonlyaboutaguineaperhead。
OncrossingtheLucallawemadeadetourtothesouth,inordertovisitthefamousrocksofPungoAndongoAssoonaswecrossedtherivuletLotete,achangeinthevegetationofthecountrywasapparentWefoundtreesidenticalwiththosetobeseensouthoftheChobeThegrass,too,standsintufts,andisofthatkindwhichthenativesconsidertobebestadaptedforcattleTwospeciesofgrape-bearingvinesaboundeverywhereinthisdistrict,andtheinfluenceofthegoodpasturageisseenintheplumpconditionofthecattleInallmypreviousinquiriesrespectingthevegetableproductsofAngola,IwasinvariablydirectedtoPungoAndongoDoyougrowwheat?“Oh,yes,inPungoAndongo。”
Grapes,figs,orpeaches?“Oh,yes,inPungoAndongo。”
Doyoumakebutter,cheese,etc。?Theuniformanswerwas,“Oh,yes,thereisabundanceofalltheseinPungoAndongo。”
Butwhenwearrivedhere,wefoundthattheanswersallreferredtotheactivityofoneman,ColonelManuelAntonioPires。
Thepresenceofthewildgrapeshowsthatvineyardsmightbecultivatedwithsuccess;thewheatgrowswellwithoutirrigation;
andanyonewhotastedthebutterandcheeseatthetableofColonelPireswouldpreferthemtothestaleproduceoftheIrishdairy,ingeneralusethroughoutthatprovinceThecattleinthiscountryareseldommilked,onaccountofthestrongprejudicewhichthePortugueseentertainagainsttheuseofmilkTheybelievethatitmaybeusedwithsafetyinthemorning,but,iftakenaftermidday,thatitwillcausefever。
Itseemedtomethattherewasnotmuchreasonforcarefullyavoidingafewdropsintheircoffee,afterhavingdevouredtentimestheamountintheshapeofcheeseatdinner。
ThefortofPungoAndongolat9d42’14“S。,long15d30’E。
issituatedinthemidstofagroupofcuriouscolumnar-shapedrocks,eachofwhichisupwardofthreehundredfeetinheightTheyarecomposedofconglomerate,madeupofagreatvarietyofroundedpiecesinamatrixofdarkredsandstoneTheyrestonathickstratumofthislastrock,withveryfewofthepebblesinitssubstance。
Onthisafossilpalmhasbeenfound,andifofthesameageasthoseontheeasternsideofthecontinent,onwhichsimilarpalmsnowlie,theremaybecoalunderneaththis,aswellasunderthatatTete。
TheassertedexistenceofpetroleumspringsatDande,andnearCambambe,wouldseemtoindicatethepresenceofthisusefulmineral,thoughIamnotawareofanyonehavingactuallyseenaseamofcoaltilteduptothesurfaceinAngola,aswehaveatTete。
ThegiganticpillarsofPungoAndongohavebeenformedbyacurrentoftheseacomingfromtheS。S。E。;for,seenfromthetop,theyappeararrangedinthatdirection,andmusthavewithstoodthesurgesoftheoceanataperiodofourworld’shistory,whentherelationsoflandandseaweretotallydifferentfromwhattheyarenow,andlongbefore“themorningstarssangtogether,andallthesonsofGodshoutedforjoytoseetheabodespreparedwhichmanwassoontofill。”
Theimbeddedpiecesintheconglomerateareofgneiss,clayshale,micaandsandstoneschists,trap,andporphyry,mostofwhicharelargeenoughtogivethewholetheappearanceofbeingtheonlyremainingvestigesofvastprimaevalbanksofshingleSeverallittlestreamsrunamongtheserocks,andinthecentralpartofthepillarsstandsthevillage,completelyenvironedbywell-nighinaccessiblerocks。
Thepathwaysintothevillagemightbedefendedbyasmallbodyoftroopsagainstanarmy;andthisplacewaslongthestrongholdofthetribecalledJinga,theoriginalpossessorsofthecountry。
Wewereshownafootprintcarvedononeoftheserocks。
Itisspokenofasthatofafamousqueen,whoreignedoverallthisregion。
Inlookingattheserudeattemptsatcommemoration,onefeelsthevalueoflettersInthehistoryofAngolawefindthatthefamousqueenDonnaAnnadeSouzacamefromthevicinity,asembassadressfromherbrother,GolaBandy,KingoftheJinga,toLoanda,in1621,tosueforpeace,andastonishedthegovernorbythereadinessofheranswersThegovernorproposed,asaconditionofpeace,thepaymentbytheJingaofanannualtribute。
“Peopletalkoftributeaftertheyhaveconquered,andnotbeforeit;
wecometotalkofpeace,notofsubjection。”wasthereadyanswer。
ThegovernorwasasmuchnonplussedasourCapegovernorsoftenarewhentheytelltheCaffres“toputitalldowninwriting,andtheywillthenbeabletoanswerthem。”SheremainedsometimeinLoanda,gainedallshesought,and,afterbeingtaughtbythemissionaries,wasbaptized,andreturnedtoherowncountrywithhonor。
Shesucceededtothekingdomonthedeathofherbrother,whomitwassupposedshepoisoned,butinasubsequentwarwiththePortugueseshelostnearlyallherarmyinagreatbattlefoughtin1627。
ShereturnedtotheChurchafteralongperiodofapostasy,anddiedinextremeoldage;andtheJingastillliveasanindependentpeopletothenorthofthistheirancientcountryNoAfricantribehaseverbeendestroyed。
InformertimesthePortugueseimaginedthatthisplacewasparticularlyunhealthy,andbanishmenttotheblackrocksofPungoAndongowasthoughtbytheirjudgestobeamuchseverersentencethantransportationtoanypartofthecoast;butthisdistrictisnowwellknowntobethemosthealthypartofAngola。
Thewaterisremarkablypure,thesoilislight,andthecountryopenandundulating,withageneralslopedowntowardtheRiverCoanza,afewmilesdistantThatriveristhesouthernboundaryofthePortuguese,andbeyond,totheSandS。W。,weseethehighmountainsoftheLibollo。
OntheS。Ewehavealsoamountainouscountry,inhabitedbytheKimbondaorAmbonda,whoaresaidbyColonelPirestobeaverybraveandindependentpeople,buthospitableandfairintheirdealingsTheyarerichincattle,andtheircountryproducesmuchbeeswax,whichiscarefullycollected,andbroughttothePortuguese,withwhomtheyhavealwaysbeenongoodterms。
TheAkoHaco,abranchofthisfamily,inhabittheleftbankoftheCoanzaabovethisvillage,who,insteadofbringingslavesforsale,asformerly,nowoccasionallybringwaxforthepurchaseofaslavefromthePortuguese。
Isawaboysoldfortwelveshillings:hesaidthathebelongedtothecountryofMatiamvoHereIboughtapairofwell-madeboots,ofgoodtannedleather,whichreachedabovetheknee,forfiveshillingsandeightpence,andthatwasjustthepricegivenforonepoundofivorybyMrPires;consequently,theboywasworthtwopairsofboots,ortwopoundsofivoryTheLibolloontheShavenotsogoodacharacter,buttheCoanzaisalwaysdeepenoughtoformalineofdefense。
ColonelPiresisagoodexampleofwhatanhonestindustriousmaninthiscountrymaybecomeHecameasaservantinaship,and,byalongcourseofperseveringlabor,hasraisedhimselftobetherichestmerchantinAngolaHepossessessomethousandsofcattle;
and,onanyemergency,canappearinthefieldwithseveralhundredarmedslaves。
Whileenjoyingthehospitalityofthismerchant-princeinhiscommodiousresidence,whichisoutsidetherocks,andcommandsabeautifulviewofalltheadjacentcountry,Ilearnedthatallmydispatches,maps,andjournalhadgonetothebottomoftheseainthemail-packet“Forerunner“IfeltsogladthatmyfriendLieutenantBedingfeld,towhosecareIhadcommittedthem,thoughinthemostimminentdanger,hadnotsharedasimilarfate,thatIwasatoncereconciledtothelaborofrewritingIavailedmyselfofthekindnessofColonelPires,andremainedtilltheendoftheyearreproducingmylostpapers。
ColonelPireshavinganotherestablishmentonthebanksoftheCoanza,aboutsixmilesdistant,IvisiteditwithhimaboutonceaweekforthepurposeofrecreationThedifferenceoftemperaturecausedbytheloweraltitudewasseeninthecashew-trees;
forwhile,neartherocks,thesetreeswerebutcomingintoflower,thoseatthelowerstationwereripeningtheirfruit。
Cocoanuttreesandbananasbearwellatthelowerstation,butyieldlittleornofruitattheupperThedifferenceindicatedbythethermometerwas7DegThegeneralrangeneartherockswas67Degat7A。M。,74Degatmidday,and72Degintheevening。
Aslave-boybelongingtoColonelPires,havingstolenandeatensomelemonsintheevening,wenttotherivertowashhismouth,soasnottobedetectedbytheflavorAnalligatorseizedhimandcarriedhimtoanislandinthemiddleofthestream;theretheboygraspedholdofthereeds,andbaffledalltheeffortsofthereptiletodislodgehim,tillhiscompanions,attractedbyhiscries,cameinacanoetohisassistanceThealligatoratonceletgohishold;
for,whenoutofhisownelement,heiscowardlyTheboyhadmanymarksoftheteethinhisabdomenandthigh,andthoseoftheclawsonhislegsandarms。
TheslavesinColonelPires’establishmentsappearedmorelikefreeservantsthananyIhadelsewhereseenEverythingwasneatandclean,whilegenerally,whereslavesaretheonlydomestics,thereisanaspectofslovenliness,asiftheywentontheprincipleofalwaysdoingaslittlefortheirmastersaspossible。