Itwasalwaysdifficulttogetourguidestomoveawayfromaplace。
Withtheauthorityofthechief,theyfeltascomfortableasking’smessengerscould,andwerenotdisposedtoforegothepleasureoflivingatfreequartersMyMakololofriendswerebutilldrilledasyet;andsincetheyhadneverlefttheirowncountrybefore,exceptforpurposesofplunder,theydidnottakereadilytothepeacefulsystemwenowmeanttofollow。
Theyeitherspoketooimperiouslytostrangers,or,whenreprovedforthat,weredisposedtofollowthedictationofeveryonewemet。
WhenIntemese,ourguide,refusedtostirtowardtheLeebaonthe31stofJanuary,theywouldmakenoefforttoinducehimtogo;
but,havingorderedthemtogetready,Intemesesawthepreparations,andsoonfollowedtheexampleIttookusaboutfourhourstocrosstheLeeba,whichisconsiderablysmallerherethanwhereweleftitindeed,onlyaboutahundredyardswide。
IthasthesamedarkmossyhueThevillagerslentuscanoestoeffectourpassage;and,havinggonetoavillageabouttwomilesbeyondtheriver,Ihadthesatisfactionofgettingobservationsforbothlongitudeandlatitudefortheformer,thedistancebetweenSaturnandtheMoon,andforthelatterameridianaltitudeofCanopus。
Long22d57’E。,lat12d6’6“S。
TheseweretheonlyopportunitiesIhadofascertainingmywhereaboutsinthispartofLondaAgainandagaindidItakeouttheinstruments,and,justasallwasright,thestarswouldbesuddenlyobscuredbyclouds。
Ihadneverobservedsogreatanamountofcloudinessinanypartofthesouthcountry;andasfortherains,IbelievethatyearsatKolobengwouldnothavemademylittletentsorottenandthinasonemonthhaddoneinLondaIneverobservedinthesouththeheavynightandearlymorningrainswehadinthiscountry。
Theyoftencontinuedallnight,thenbecameheavieraboutanhourbeforedawn。
Oriffairduringthenight,asdaydrewnigh,anextremelyheavy,still,pouringrainsetinwithoutwarningFiveoutofeverysixdayswehadthispouringrain,atornearbreakofday,formonthstogether;
anditsoonbeatmytentsothin,thatamistfellthroughonmyfaceandmadeeverythingdampTherainswereoccasionally,butnotalways,accompaniedwithveryloudthunder。
FEBRUARY1STThisdaywehadafineviewoftwohillscalledPiriPeeri,meaning“two“,onthesideoftheriverwehadleftThecountrythereisnamedMokwankwaAndthereIntemeseinformedusoneofShinte’schildrenwasborn,whenhewasinhisprogresssouthwardfromthecountryofMatiamvo。
ThispartofthecountrywouldthusseemnottohavebeeninhabitedbythepeopleofShinteatanyveryremoteperiodHetoldmehimselfthathehadcomeintohispresentcountrybycommandofMatiamvo。
HereweweresurprisedtohearEnglishcottonclothmuchmoreeagerlyinquiredafterthanbeadsandornamentsTheyaremoreinneedofclothingthantheBechuanatribeslivingadjacenttotheKalahariDesert,whohaveplentyofskinsforthepurposeAnimalsofallkindsarerarehere,andaverysmallpieceofcalicoisofgreatvalue。
Inthemidstoftheheavyrain,whichcontinuedallthemorning,Intemesesenttosayhewaslaidupwithpainsinthestomach,andmustnotbedisturbed;butwhenitclearedup,abouteleven,Isawourfriendwalkingofftothevillage,andtalkingwithaveryloudvoiceOnreproachinghimfortellinganuntruth,heturneditoffwithalaughbysayinghereallyhadacomplaintinhisstomach,whichImightcurebyslaughteringoneoftheoxenandallowinghimtoeatbeefHewasevidentlyrevelingintheabundanceofgoodfoodthechief’sordersbroughtus;
andhedidnotfeeltheshameIdidwhenIgaveafewbeadsonlyinreturnforlargebasketsofmeal。
Averyoldmanvisitedusherewithapresentofmaize:liketheothers,hehadneverbeforeseenawhiteman,and,whenconversingwithhim,someoftheyoungmenremarkedthattheywerethetrueancients,fortheyhadnowseenmorewonderfulthingsthantheirforefathers。
OneofIntemese’smenstoleafowlgivenmebyaladyofthevillage。
Whenchargedwiththetheft,everyoneofIntemese’spartyvociferatedhisinnocenceandindignationatbeingsuspected,continuingtheirloudasseverationsandgesticulationsforsomeminutes。
Oneofmymen,Loyanke,wentofftothevillage,broughttheladywhohadpresentedthefowltoidentifyit,andthenpointedtothehutinwhichitwashiddenTheBalondacollectedroundhim,evincinggreatwrath;butLoyankeseizedhisbattle-axeinthepropermannerforstriking,and,placinghimselfonalittlehillock,soonmadethemmoderatetheirtonesIntemesethencalledonmetosendoneofmypeopletosearchthehutsifIsuspectedhispeople。
Themansentsoonfoundit,andbroughtitout,totheconfusionofIntemeseandthelaughterofourpartyThisincidentismentionedtoshowthatthegreatersuperstitionwhichexistsheredoesnotleadtothepracticeofthevirtuesWenevermetaninstancelikethisoftheftfromawhitemanamongtheMakololo,thoughtheycomplainoftheMakalakaasaddictedtopilfering。
ThehonestyoftheBakwainshasbeenalreadynoticedProbablytheestimationinwhichIwasheldasapublicbenefactor,inwhichcharacterIwasnotyetknowntotheBalonda,mayaccountforthesacrednesswithwhichmypropertywasalwaystreatedbeforeButotherincidentswhichhappenedsubsequentlyshowed,aswellasthis,thatidolatersarenotsovirtuousasthosewhohavenoidols。
AsthepeopleonthebanksoftheLeebawerethelastofShinte’stribeoverwhichIntemesehadpower,hewasnaturallyanxioustoremainaslongaspossibleHewasnotidle,butmadealargewoodenmortarandpestleforhiswifeduringourjourneyHealsocarvedmanywoodenspoonsandabowl;
thencommencedabasket;butaswhatheconsideredgoodlivingwasanythingbutagreeabletous,whohadbeenaccustomedtomilkandmaize,wewentforwardonthe2dwithouthimHesoonfollowed,butleftourpontoon,sayingitwouldbebroughtbytheheadmanofthevillage。
Thiswasagreatloss,asweafterwardfound;itremainedatthisvillagemorethanayear,andwhenwereturnedamousehadeatenaholeinit。
WeenteredonanextensiveplainbeyondtheLeeba,atleasttwentymilesbroad,andcoveredwithwater,ankledeepintheshallowestparts。
WedeviatedsomewhatfromourN。WcoursebythedirectionofIntemese,andkeptthehillsPirinearlyonourrightduringagreatpartofthefirstday,inordertoavoidthestillmoredeeplyfloodedplainsofLobaleLuval?onthewestThese,accordingtoIntemese,areatpresentimpassableonaccountofbeingthighdeep。
Theplainsaresoperfectlylevelthatrain-water,whichthiswas,standsuponthemformonthstogetherTheywerenotfloodedbytheLeeba,forthatwasstillfarwithinitsbanksHereandthere,dottedoverthesurface,arelittleislands,onwhichgrowstunteddate-bushesandscraggytreesTheplainsthemselvesarecoveredwithathickswardofgrass,whichconcealsthewater,andmakestheflatsappearlikegreatpaleyellow-coloredprairie-lands,withaclearhorizon,exceptwhereinterruptedhereandtherebytreesTheclearrain-watermusthavestoodsometimeamongthegrass,forgreatnumbersoflotus-flowerswereseeninfullblow;andtherunsofwatertortoisesandcrabswereobserved;otheranimalsalso,whichpreyonthefishthatfindtheirwaytotheplains。
Thecontinualsplashingoftheoxenkeepsthefeetoftheriderconstantlywet,andmymencomplainoftheperpetualmoistureofthepathsbywhichwehavetraveledinLondaassofteningtheirhornysoles。
TheonlyinformationwecangleanisfromIntemese,whopointsoutthedifferentlocalitiesaswepassalong,andamongtherest“MokalaaMama“,his“mamma’shome“Itwasinterestingtohearthistallgray-headedmanrecallthememoriesofboyhood。
AlltheMakalakachildrencleavetothemotherincasesofseparation,orremovalfromonepartofthecountrytoanotherThisloveformothersdoesnotarguesuperiormoralityinotherrespects,orelseIntemesehasforgottenanyinjunctionshismammamayhavegivenhimnottotelllies。
Therespect,however,withwhichhespokeofherwasquitecharacteristicofhisraceTheBechuanas,onthecontrary,carenothingfortheirmothers,butclingtotheirfathers,especiallyiftheyhaveanyexpectationofbecomingheirstotheircattle。
OurBakwainguidetothelake,Rachosi,toldmethathismotherlivedinthecountryofSebituane,but,thoughagoodspecimenoftheBechuanas,helaughedattheideaofgoingsofarasfromtheLakeNgamitotheChobemerelyforthepurposeofseeingherHadhebeenoneoftheMakalaka,heneverwouldhavepartedfromher。
Wemadeourbedsononeoftheislands,andwerewretchedlysuppliedwithfirewoodTheboothsconstructedbythemenwerebutsorryshelter,fortherainpoureddownwithoutintermissiontillmidday。
Thereisnodrainagefortheprodigiousmassesofwaterontheseplains,exceptslowpercolationintothedifferentfeedersoftheLeeba,andintothatriveritselfThequantityofvegetationhaspreventedthecountryfrombecomingfurrowedbymanyrivuletsor“nullahs“。
Wereitnotsoremarkablyflat,thedrainagemusthavebeeneffectedbytorrents,eveninspiteofthemattedvegetation。
Thattheseextensiveplainsarecoveredwithgrassesonly,andthelittleislandswithbutscraggytrees,maybeaccountedforbythefact,observableeverywhereinthiscountry,that,wherewaterstandsforanylengthoftime,treescannotlive。
Thewantofspeedydrainagedestroysthem,andinjuresthegrowthofthosethatareplantedontheislands,fortheyhavenodepthofearthnotsubjectedtothesouringinfluenceofthestagnantwater。
TheplainsofLobale,tothewestofthese,aresaidtobemuchmoreextensivethananywesaw,andtheirvegetationpossessessimilarpeculiarities。
Whenthestagnantrain-waterhasallsoakedin,asmusthappenduringthemonthsinwhichthereisnorain,travelersareevenputtostraitsforwantofwaterThisisstatedonnativetestimony;butIcanverywellbelievethatlevelplains,inwhichneitherwellsnorgulliesaremetwith,may,afterthedryseason,presenttheoppositeextremetowhatwewitnessed。
Water,however,couldalwaysbegotbydigging,aproofofwhichwehadonourreturnwhenbroughttoastandonthisveryplainbyseverefever:
abouttwelvemilesfromtheKasaimymendugdownafewfeet,andfoundanabundantsupply;andwesawononeoftheislandsthegardenofamanwho,inthedryseason,haddrunkwaterfromawellinlikemannerPlainslikethesecannotbeinhabitedwhilethepresentsystemofcultivationlastsThepopulationisnotyetsoverylargeastoneedthemTheyfindgarden-groundenoughonthegentleslopesatthesidesoftherivulets,andpossessnocattletoeatoffthemillionsofacresoffinehaywewerenowwadingthrough。
AnyonewhohasvisitedtheCapeColonywillunderstandmewhenIsaythattheseimmensecropsresemblesowngrassesmorethanthetuftyvegetationofthesouth。
Iwouldhererequesttheparticularattentionofthereadertothephenomenatheseperiodicallydelugedplainspresent,becausetheyhaveamostimportantbearingonthephysicalgeographyofaverylargeportionofthiscountry。
TheplainsofLobale,tothewestofthis,giverisetoagreatmanystreams,whichunite,andformthedeep,never-failingChobeSimilarextensiveflatsgivebirthtotheLoetiandKasai,and,asweshallseefurtheron,alltheriversofanextensiveregionowetheirorigintooozingbogs,andnottofountains。
Whenreleasedfromourislandbytherainceasing,wemarchedontillwecametoaridgeofdryinhabitedlandintheN。W。
Theinhabitants,accordingtocustom,lentustheroofsofsomehutstosavethementhetroubleofbooth-makingIsuspectthatthestoryinPark’s“Travels“,ofthemenliftingupthehuttoplaceitonthelion,referredtotheroofonlyWeleavethemforthevillagerstoreplaceattheirleisureNopaymentisexpectedfortheuseofthem。
Bynightitrainedsocopiouslythatallourbedswerefloodedfrombelow;
andfromthistimeforthwealwaysmadeafurrowroundeachbooth,andusedtheearthtoraiseoursleeping-placesMymenturnedouttoworkinthewetmostwillingly;indeed,theyalwaysdid。
IcouldnotbutcontrasttheirconductwiththatofIntemese。
Hewasthoroughlyimbuedwiththeslavespirit,andliedonalloccasionswithoutcompunctionUntruthfulnessisasortofrefugefortheweakandoppressedWeexpectedtomoveonthe4th,buthedeclaredthatweweresonearKatema’s,ifwedidnotsendforwardtoapprisethatchiefofourapproach,hewouldcertainlyimposeafine。