Agreatmanyvillagesofthispoorandveryindustriouspeoplearesituatedonbothbanksoftheriver:theyareexperthuntersofthehippopotamiandotheranimals,andveryproficientinthemanufactureofarticlesofwoodandironThewholeofthispartofthecountrybeinginfestedwiththetsetse,theyareunabletoreardomesticanimals。
ThismayhaveledtotheirskillinhandicraftworksSomemakelargewoodenvesselswithveryneatlids,andwoodenbowlsofallsizes;
andsincetheideaofsittingonstoolshasenteredtheMakololomind,theyhaveshowngreattasteinthedifferentformsgiventothelegsofthesepiecesoffurniture。
OtherBanyeti,orManyeti,astheyarecalled,makeneatandstrongbasketsofthesplitrootsofacertaintree,whileothersexcelinpotteryandiron。
IcannotfindthattheyhaveeverbeenwarlikeIndeed,thewarsinthecentreofthecountry,wherenoslave-tradeexisted,haveseldombeenaboutanythingelsebutcattleSowellknownisthis,thatseveraltribesrefusetokeepcattlebecausetheytempttheirenemiestocomeandstealNevertheless,theyhavenoobjectiontoeatthemwhenoffered,andtheircountryadmitsofbeingwellstocked。
Ihaveheardofbutonewarhavingoccurredfromanothercause。
Threebrothers,Barolongs,foughtforthepossessionofawomanwhowasconsideredworthabattle,andthetribehasremainedpermanentlydividedeversince。
Fromthebenduptothenorth,calledKatima-moleloIquenchedfire,thebedoftheriverisrocky,andthestreamrunsfast,formingasuccessionofrapidsandcataracts,whichpreventcontinuousnavigationwhenthewaterislowTherapidsarenotvisiblewhentheriverisfull,butthecataractsofNambwe,Bombwe,andKalemustalwaysbedangerousThefallateachoftheseisbetweenfourandsixfeet。
ButthefallsofGonyepresentamuchmoreseriousobstacle。
Therewewereobligedtotakethecanoesoutofthewater,andcarrythemmorethanamilebylandThefallisaboutthirtyfeet。
Themainbodyofwater,whichcomesovertheledgeofrockwhentheriverislow,iscollectedintoaspaceseventyoreightyyardswidebeforeittakestheleap,and,amassofrockbeingthrustforwardagainsttheroaringtorrent,aloudsoundisproducedTraditionreportsthedestructioninthisplaceoftwohippopotamus-hunters,who,over-eagerinthepursuitofawoundedanimal,were,withtheirintendedprey,drawndownintothefrightfulgulfThereisalsoatraditionofaman,evidentlyofasuperiormind,wholefthisowncountrymen,theBarotse,andcamedowntheriver,tookadvantageofthefalls,andledoutaportionofthewaterthereforirrigationSuchmindsmusthavearisenfromtimetotimeintheseregions,aswellasinourowncountry,but,ignorantoftheuseofletters,theyhaveleftnomemorialbehindthem。
Wedugoutsomeofaninferiorkindofpotato`Sisinyane’fromhisgarden,forwhenonceplanteditneverdiesoutThisrootisbitterandwaxy,thoughitiscultivatedItwasnotinflower,soIcannotsaywhetheritisasolanaceousplantornotOneneverexpectstofindagravenorastoneofremembrancesetupinAfrica;theveryrocksareilliterate,theycontainsofewfossilsThosehereareofreddishvariegated,hardenedsandstone,withmadreporeholesinitThis,andbroadhorizontalstrataoftrap,sometimesahundredmilesinextent,andeachlayerhavinganinchorsoofblacksiliciousmatteronit,asifithadfloatedtherewhileinastateoffusion,formagreatpartofthebottomofthecentralvalleyTheserocks,inthesouthernpartofthecountryespecially,areoftencoveredwithtwelveorfifteenfeetofsoftcalcareoustufaAtBombwewehavethesametrap,withradiatedzeolite,probablymesotype,anditagainappearsattheconfluenceoftheChobe,fartherdown。
Aswepasseduptheriver,thedifferentvillagesofBanyetiturnedouttopresentSekeletuwithfoodandskins,astheirtribute。
OnelargevillageisplacedatGonye,theinhabitantsofwhicharerequiredtoassisttheMakololotocarrytheircanoespastthefalls。
Thetsetseherelightedonuseveninthemiddleofthestream。
Thiswecrossedrepeatedly,inordertomakeshortcutsatbendsoftheriver。
Thecourseis,however,remarkablystraightamongtherocks;
andheretheriverisshallow,onaccountofthegreatbreadthofsurfacewhichitcoversWhenwecametoabout16d16’Slatitude,thehighwoodedbanksseemedtoleavetheriver,andnomoretsetseappeared。
Viewedfromtheflat,reedybasininwhichtheriverthenflowed,thebanksseemedprolongedintoridges,ofthesamewoodedcharacter,twoorthreehundredfeethigh,andstretchedawaytotheN。N。EandN。N。W。
untiltheyweretwentyorthirtymilesapartTheinterveningspace,nearlyonehundredmilesinlength,withtheLeeambyewindinggentlynearthemiddle,isthetrueBarotsevalleyItbearsacloseresemblancetothevalleyoftheNile,andisinundatedannually,notbyrains,butbytheLeeambye,exactlyasLowerEgyptisfloodedbytheNile。
ThevillagesoftheBarotsearebuiltonmounds,someofwhicharesaidtohavebeenraisedartificiallybySanturu,aformerchiefoftheBarotse,andduringtheinundationthewholevalleyassumestheappearanceofalargelake,withthevillagesonthemoundslikeislands,justasoccursinEgyptwiththevillagesoftheEgyptians。
Someportionofthewatersofinundationcomesfromthenorthwest,wheregreatfloodingsalsooccur,butmorecomesfromthenorthandnortheast,descendingthebedoftheLeeambyeitselfTherearebutfewtreesinthisvalley:thosewhichstandonthemoundswerenearlyalltransplantedbySanturuforshadeThesoilisextremelyfertile,andthepeopleareneverinwantofgrain,for,bytakingadvantageofthemoistureoftheinundation,theycantaketwocropsayear。
TheBarotsearestronglyattachedtothisfertilevalley;theysay,“Herehungerisnotknown。”Therearesomanythingsbesidescornwhichamancanfindinitforfood,thatitisnowondertheydesertfromLinyantitoreturntothisplace。
Thegreatvalleyisnotputtoatitheoftheuseitmightbe。
Itiscoveredwithcoarsesucculentgrasses,whichaffordamplepasturageforlargeherdsofcattle;thesethrivewonderfully,andgivemilkcopiouslytotheirownersWhenthevalleyisflooded,thecattlearecompelledtoleaveitandgotothehigherlands,wheretheyfalloffincondition;
theirreturnisatimeofjoy。
Itisimpossibletosaywhetherthisvalley,whichcontainssomuchmoisture,wouldraisewheatasthevalleyoftheNiledoesItisprobablytoorich,andwouldmakecornrunentirelytostraw,foronespeciesofgrasswasobservedtwelvefeethigh,withastemasthickasaman’sthumb。
Atpresentthepasturageisnevereatenoff,thoughtheMakololopossessimmenseherdsofcattle。
Therearenolargetowns,themoundsonwhichthetownsandvillagesarebuiltbeingallsmall,andthepeoplerequiretoliveapartonaccountoftheircattle。
ThisvisitwasthefirstSekeletuhadmadetothesepartssinceheattainedthechieftainshipThosewhohadtakenpartwithMpepewereconsequentlyingreatterrorWhenwecametothetownofMpepe’sfather,asheandanothermanhadcounseledMamochisanetoputSekeletutodeathandmarryMpepe,thetwowereledforthandtossedintotheriver。
NokuanewasagainoneoftheexecutionersWhenIremonstratedagainsthumanbloodbeingshedintheoffhandwayinwhichtheywereproceeding,thecounselorsjustifiedtheiractsbytheevidencegivenbyMamochisane,andcalmlyadded,“YouseewearestillBoers;wearenotyettaught。”
MpepehadgivenfullpermissiontotheMambarislave-dealerstotradeinalltheBatokaandBashukulompovillagestotheeastofthis。
Hehadgiventhemcattle,ivory,andchildren,andhadreceivedinreturnalargeblunderbusstobemountedasacannonWhentheslightcircumstanceofmyhavingcoveredthebodyofthechiefwithmyownderangedthewholeconspiracy,theMambari,intheirstockade,wereplacedinveryawkwardcircumstancesItwasproposedtoattackthemanddrivethemoutofthecountryatonce;but,dreadingacommencementofhostilities,Iurgedthedifficultiesofthatcourse,andshowedthatastockadedefendedbyperhapsfortymusketswouldbeaveryseriousaffair。
“Hungerisstrongenoughforthat。”saidanunder-chief;
“averygreatfellowishe。”Theythoughtofattackingthembystarvation。
Asthechiefsufferersincaseofsuchanattackwouldhavebeenthepoorslaveschainedingangs,Iintercededforthem,andtheresultofanintercessionofwhichtheywereignorantwasthattheywereallowedtodepartinpeace。
Naliele,thecapitaloftheBarotse,isbuiltonamoundwhichwasconstructedartificiallybySanturu,andwashisstore-houseforgrain。
Hisowncapitalstoodaboutfivehundredyardstothesouthofthat,inwhatisnowthebedoftheriverAllthatremainsofthelargestmoundinthevalleyareafewcubicyardsofearth,toerectwhichcostthewholeofthepeopleofSanturuthelaborofmanyyears。
Thesamethinghashappenedtoanotherancientsiteofatown,Linangelo,alsoontheleftbankItwouldseem,therefore,thattheriverinthispartofthevalleymustbewearingeastward。
Nogreatriseoftheriverisrequiredtosubmergethewholevalley;
ariseoftenfeetabovethepresentlow-watermarkwouldreachthehighestpointiteverattains,asseeninthemarkingsofthebankonwhichstoodSanturu’sancientcapital,andtwoorthreefeetmorewoulddelugeallthevillagesThisneverhappens,thoughthewatersometimescomessonearthefoundationsofthehutsthatthepeoplecannotmoveoutsidethewallsofreedswhichencircletheirvillages。
WhentheriveriscompressedamongthehighrockybanksnearGonye,itrisessixtyfeet。
Theinfluenceofthepartialobstructionitmeetswiththereisseeninthemorewindingcourseoftherivernorthof16Deg。;
andwhentheswellgetspastKatima-molelo,itspreadsoutonthelandsonbothbankstowardSesheke。
Santuru,atwhoseancientgranarywearestaying,wasagreathunter,andveryfondoftamingwildanimalsHispeople,awareofhistaste,broughttohimeveryyoungantelopetheycouldcatch,and,amongotherthings,twoyounghippopotamiTheseanimalsgamboledintheriverbyday,butneverfailedtoremembertocomeuptoNalielefortheirsuppersofmilkandmealTheywerethewonderofthecountry,tillastranger,happeningtocometovisitSanturu,sawthemreclininginthesun,andspearedoneofthemonthesuppositionthatitwaswild。
ThesameunluckyaccidenthappenedtooneofthecatsIhadbroughttoSekeletuAstranger,seeingananimalhehadneverviewedbefore,killedit,andbroughtthetrophytothechief,thinkingthathehadmadeaveryremarkablediscovery;wetherebylostthebreedofcats,ofwhich,fromtheswarmsofmice,westoodingreatneed。
OnmakinginquiriestoascertainwhetherSanturu,theMoloiana,hadeverbeenvisitedbywhitemen,Icouldfindnovestigeofanysuchvisit;*
thereisnoevidenceofanyofSanturu’speoplehavingeverseenawhitemanbeforethearrivalofMrOswellandmyselfin1851Thepeoplehave,itistrue,nowrittenrecords;butanyremarkableeventhereiscommemoratedinnames,aswasobservedbyParktobethecaseinthecountrieshetraversedTheyearofourarrivalisdignifiedbythenameoftheyearwhenthewhitemencame,orofSebituane’sdeath;
buttheyprefertheformer,astheyavoid,ifpossible,anydirectreferencetothedepartedAftermywife’sfirstvisit,greatnumbersofchildrenwerenamedMa-Robert,ormotherofRobert,hereldestchild;
otherswerenamedGun,Horse,Wagon,Monare,Jesus,etc。;
butthoughournames,andthoseofthenativePortuguesewhocamein1853,wereadopted,thereisnotatraceofanythingofthesorthavinghappenedpreviouslyamongtheBarotse:thevisitofawhitemanissucharemarkableevent,that,hadanytakenplaceduringthelastthreehundredyears,theremusthaveremainedsometraditionofit。