首页 >出版文学> Travels and Researches in South Africa>第28章
  Attheeasternendthesehillshavecuriousfungoidorcup-shapedhollows,ofasizewhichsuggeststheideaofcratersWithinthesearemassesoftherockcrystallizedinthecolumnarformofthisformation。
  Thetopsofthecolumnsarequitedistinct,ofthehexagonalform,likethebottomofthecellsofahoneycomb,buttheyarenotpartedfromeachotherasintheCaveofFingalInmanypartsthelava-streamsmayberecognized,fortheretherockisrentandsplitineverydirection,butnosoilisyetfoundintheintersticesWhenweweresittingintheevening,afterahotday,itwasquitecommontohearthesemassesofbasaltsplitandfallamongeachotherwiththepeculiarringingsoundwhichmakespeoplebelievethatthisrockcontainsmuchironSeverallargemasses,insplittingthusbythecoldactingsuddenlyonpartsexpandedbytheheatoftheday,haveslippeddownthesidesofthehills,and,impingingagainsteachother,haveformedcavitiesinwhichtheBakaatookrefugeagainsttheirenemies。
  Thenumerouschinksandcranniesleftbythesehugefragmentsmadeitquiteimpossiblefortheirenemiestosmokethemout,aswasdonebytheBoerstothepeopleofMankopane。
  Thismassofbasalt,aboutsixmileslong,hastilteduptherocksonboththeeastandwest;theseupheavedrocksaretheancientsilurianschistswhichformedthebottomofthegreatprimaevalvalley,and,likealltherecentvolcanicrocksofthiscountry,haveahotfountainintheirvicinity,namely,thatofSerinane。
  InpassingthroughthesehillsonourwaynorthweenterapassnamedManakalongwe,orUnicorn’sPassTheunicornhereisalargeediblecaterpillar,withanerect,horn-liketail。
  ThepasswasalsocalledPoraporaorgurglingofwater,fromastreamhavingrunthroughitThescenemusthavebeenverydifferentinformertimesfromwhatitisnowThisispartoftheRiverMahalapi,whichso-calledriverscarcelymeritsthename,anymorethanthemeadowsofEdinburghdeservethetitleofNorthLoch。
  ThesehillsarethelastweshallseeformonthsThecountrybeyondconsistedoflargepatchesoftrap-coveredtufa,havinglittlesoilorvegetationexcepttuftsofgrassandwait-a-bitthorns,inthemidstofextensivesandy,grass-coveredplains。
  Theseyellow-colored,grassyplains,withmoretloaandmahatlabushes,formquiteacharacteristicfeatureofthecountryTheyellowordun-colorprevailsduringagreatpartoftheyearTheBakwainhillsareanexceptiontotheusualflatsurface,fortheyarecoveredwithgreentreestotheirtops,andthevalleysareoftenofthemostlovelygreen。
  Thetreesarelargertoo,andeventheplainsoftheBakwaincountrycontaintreesinsteadofbushesIfyoulooknorthfromthehillswearenowleaving,thecountrypartakesofthislattercharacter。
  Itappearsasifitwereaflatcoveredwithaforestofordinary-sizedtreesfrom20to30feethigh,butwhenyoutraveloverittheyarenotsocloselyplantedbutthatawagonwithcaremaybeguidedamongthemThegrassgrowsintuftsofthesizeofone’shat,withbaresoftsandbetweenNowhereherehaveweanapproachtoEnglishlawns,orthepleasingappearanceofEnglishgreensward。
  InnopartofthiscountrycouldEuropeangrainbecultivatedwithoutirrigationThenativesallcultivatethedourrhaorholcussorghum,maize,pumpkins,melons,cucumbers,anddifferentkindsofbeans;
  andtheyareentirelydependentforthegrowthoftheseonrains。
  Theirinstrumentofcultureisthehoe,andthechieflaborfallsonthefemaleportionofthecommunityInthisrespecttheBechuanascloselyresembletheCaffresThemenengageinhunting,milkthecows,andhavetheentirecontrolofthecattle;
  theypreparetheskins,maketheclothing,andinmanyrespectsmaybeconsideredanationoftailors。
  WhenatSekomi’swegenerallyhaveheardhispraisessoundedbyamanwhorisesatbreakofday,anduttersatthetopofhisvoicetheorationwhichthatrulerissaidtohavecomposedathisboguera。
  Thisrepetitionofhis“leina“,ororation,issopleasingtoachief,thathegenerallysendsahandsomepresenttothemanwhodoesit。
  JANUARY28THPassingontoLetloche,abouttwentymilesbeyondtheBamangwato,wefoundafinesupplyofwater。
  Thisisapointofsomuchinterestinthatcountrythatthefirstquestionweaskofpassersbyis,“Haveyouhadwater?”thefirstinquiryanativeputstoafellow-countrymanis,“Whereistherain?”and,thoughtheyarebynomeansanuntruthfulnation,theanswergenerallyis,“Idon’tknowthereisnonewearekilledwithhungerandbythesun。”
  Ifnewsisaskedfor,theycommencewith,“Thereisnonews:
  Iheardsomeliesonly。”andthentellalltheyknow。
  ThisspotwasMrGordonCumming’sfurtheststationnorth。
  OurhouseatKolobenghavingbeenquiteinthehunting-country,rhinocerosandbuffaloesseveraltimesrushedpast,andIwasabletoshootthelattertwicefromourowndoorWewerefavoredbyvisitsfromthisfamoushunterduringeachofthefiveyearsofhiswarfarewithwildanimalsManyEnglishgentlemenfollowingthesamepursuitspaidtheirguidesandassistantssopunctuallythatinmakingarrangementsforthemwehadtobecarefulthatfourdidnotgowheretwoonlywerewanted:theyknewsowellthatanEnglishmanwouldpaythattheydependedimplicitlyonhiswordofhonor,andnotonlywouldtheygoandhuntforfiveorsixmonthsinthenorth,enduringallthehardshipsofthattryingmodeoflife,withlittleelsebutmeatofgametosubsiston,buttheywillinglywentsevenhundredoreighthundredmilestoGraham’sTown,receivingforwagesonlyamusketworthfifteenshillings。
  Nooneeverdeceivedthemexceptoneman;andasIbelievedthathewasafflictedwithaslightdegreeoftheinsanityofgreediness,IupheldthehonoroftheEnglishnamebypayinghisdebts。
  AstheguidesofMrCummingwerefurnishedthroughmyinfluence,andusuallygotsomestrictchargesastotheirbehaviorbeforeparting,lookinguponmeinthelightofafather,theyalwayscametogivemeanaccountoftheirservice,andtoldmostofthosehuntingadventureswhichhavesincebeengiventotheworld,beforewehadthepleasureofhearingourfriendrelatethemhimselfbyourownfireside。
  Ihadthusatolerablygoodopportunityoftestingtheiraccuracy,andIhavenohesitationinsayingthatforthosewholovethatsortofthingMrCumming’sbookconveysatruthfulideaofSouthAfricanhunting。
  Somethingsinitrequireexplanation,butthenumbersofanimalssaidtohavebeenmetwithandkilledarebynomeansimprobable,consideringtheamountoflargegametheninthecountry。
  Twoothergentlemenhuntinginthesameregiondestroyedinoneseasonnofewerthanseventy-eightrhinocerosesaloneSportsmen,however,wouldnotnowfindanequalnumber,forasgunsareintroducedamongthetribesallthesefineanimalsmeltawaylikesnowinspring。
  Inthemoreremotedistricts,wherefire-armshavenotyetbeenintroduced,withthesingleexceptionoftherhinoceros,thegameistobefoundinnumbersmuchgreaterthanMrCummingeversawThetsetseis,however,aninsuperablebarriertohuntingwithhorsesthere,andEuropeanscandonothingonfootThestepoftheelephantwhenchargingthehunter,thoughapparentlynotquick,issolongthatthepaceequalsthespeedofagoodhorseatacanterAyoungsportsman,nomatterhowgreatamongpheasants,foxes,andhounds,woulddowelltopausebeforeresolvingtobravefeverfortheexcitementofriskingsuchaterrificcharge;
  thescreamortrumpetingofthisenormousbrutewheninfuriatedismorelikewhattheshriekofaFrenchsteam-whistlewouldbetoamanstandingonthedangerouspartofarail-roadthananyotherearthlysound:
  ahorseunusedtoitwillsometimesstandshiveringinsteadoftakinghisrideroutofdangerIthashappenedoftenthatthepooranimal’slegsdotheirdutysobadlythathefallsandcauseshisridertobetroddenintoamummy;or,losinghispresenceofmind,theridermayallowthehorsetodashunderatreeandcrackhiscraniumagainstabranchAsonechargefromanelephanthasmadeembryoNimrodsbidafinaladieutothechase,incipientGordonCummingsmighttrytheirnervesbystandingonrailwaystilltheengineswerewithinafewyardsofthemHuntingelephantsonfootwouldbenotlessdangerous,*
  unlesstheCeylonmodeofkillingthembyoneshotcouldbefollowed:
  ithasneverbeentriedinAfrica。
  *Sincewritingtheabovestatement,ithasreceivedconfirmationinthereporteddeathofMrWahlbergwhilehuntingelephantsonfootatLakeNgami。
  AdvancingtosomewellsbeyondLetloche,ataspotnamedKanne,wefoundthemcarefullyhedgedroundbythepeopleofaBakalaharivillagesituatednearthespotWehadthensixtymilesofcountryinfrontwithoutwater,andverydistressingfortheoxen,asitisgenerallydeepsoftsandThereisonesucking-place,aroundwhichwerecongregatedgreatnumbersofBushwomenwiththeiregg-shellsandreeds。
  Mathuluanenowcontainednowater,andMotlatsaonlyasmallsupply,sowesenttheoxenacrossthecountrytothedeepwellNkauane,andhalfwerelostonthewayWhenfoundatlasttheyhadbeenfivewholedayswithoutwaterVerylargenumbersofelandsweremetwithasusual,thoughtheyseldomcangetasipofdrink。
  Manyoftheplainsherehavelargeexpansesofgrasswithouttrees,butyouseldomseeatreelesshorizonTheostrichisgenerallyseenquietlyfeedingonsomespotwherenoonecanapproachhimwithoutbeingdetectedbyhiswaryeyeAsthewagonmovesalongfartothewindwardhethinksitisintendingtocircumventhim,soherushesupamileorsofromtheleeward,andsoneartothefrontoxenthatonesometimesgetsashotatthesillybirdWhenhebeginstorunallthegameinsightfollowhisexampleIhaveseenthisfollytakenadvantageofwhenhewasfeedingquietlyinavalleyopenatbothends。
  Anumberofmenwouldcommencerunning,asiftocutoffhisretreatfromtheendthroughwhichthewindcame;andalthoughhehadthewholecountryhundredsofmilesbeforehimbygoingtotheotherend,onhemadlyrushedtogetpastthemen,andsowasspearedHeneverswervesfromthecourseheonceadopts,butonlyincreaseshisspeed。
  Whentheostrichisfeedinghispaceisfromtwentytotwenty-twoinches;
  whenwalking,butnotfeeding,itistwenty-sixinches;
  andwhenterrified,asinthecasenoticed,itisfromelevenandahalftothirteenandevenfourteenfeetinlengthOnlyinonecasewasIatallsatisfiedofbeingabletocounttherateofspeedbyastop-watch,and,ifIamnotmistaken,therewerethirtyintenseconds;
  generallyone’seyecannomorefollowthelegsthanitcanthespokesofacarriage-wheelinrapidmotionIfwetaketheabovenumber,andtwelvefeetstrideastheaveragepace,wehaveaspeedoftwenty-sixmilesanhourItcannotbeverymuchabovethat,andisthereforeslowerthanarailwaylocomotiveTheyaresometimesshotbythehorsemanmakingacrosscuttotheirundeviatingcourse,butfewEnglishmeneversucceedinkillingthem。
  Theostrichbeginstolayhereggsbeforeshehasfixedonaspotforanest,whichisonlyahollowafewinchesdeepinthesand,andaboutayardindiameterSolitaryeggs,namedbytheBechuanas“lesetla“,arethusfoundlyingforsakenalloverthecountry,andbecomeapreytothejackal。
  Sheseemsaversetoriskingaspotforanest,andoftenlayshereggsinthatofanotherostrich,sothatasmanyasforty-fivehavebeenfoundinonenestSomeeggscontainsmallconcretionsofthematterwhichformstheshell,asoccursalsointheeggofthecommonfowl:
  thishasgivenrisetotheideaofstonesintheeggsBothmaleandfemaleassistintheincubations;butthenumbersoffemalesbeingalwaysgreatest,itisprobablethatcasesoccurinwhichthefemaleshavetheentirecharge。
  Severaleggslieoutofthenest,andarethoughttobeintendedasfoodforthefirstofthenewly-hatchedbroodtilltherestcomeoutandenablethewholetostartinquestoffoodIhaveseveraltimesseennewly-hatchedyounginchargeofthecock,whomadeaverygoodattemptatappearinglameintheploverfashion,inordertodrawofftheattentionofpursuersTheyoungsquatdownandremainimmovablewhentoosmalltorunfar,butattainawonderfuldegreeofspeedwhenaboutthesizeofcommonfowlsItcannotbeassertedthatostrichesarepolygamous,thoughtheyoftenappeartobeso。
  Whencaughttheyareeasilytamed,butareofnouseintheirdomesticatedstate。