Ourroutetothenorthlaynearthecentreofthecone-shapedmassoflandwhichconstitutesthepromontoryoftheCapeIfwesupposethisconetobedividedintothreezonesorlongitudinalbands,wefindeachpresentingdistinctpeculiaritiesofclimate,physicalappearanceandpopulation。
ThesearemoremarkedbeyondthanwithinthecolonyAtsomepointsonedistrictseemstobecontinuedinandtomergeintotheother,butthegeneraldissimilaritywarrantsthedivision,asanaidtomemory。
Theeasternzoneisoftenfurnishedwithmountains,wellwoodedwithevergreensucculenttrees,onwhichneitherfirenordroughtscanhavethesmallesteffect`Strelitzia’,`Zamiahorrida’,`Portulacariaafra’,`Schotiaspeciosa’,`Euphorbias’,and`Aloesarborescens’;
anditsseaboardgorgesarecladwithgigantictimber。
Itisalsocomparativelywellwateredwithstreamsandflowingrivers。
Theannualsupplyofrainisconsiderable,andtheinhabitantsCaffresorZulusaretall,muscular,andwellmade;
theyareshrewd,energetic,andbrave;altogethertheymeritthecharactergiventhembymilitaryauthorities,ofbeing“magnificentsavages“。
Theirsplendidphysicaldevelopmentandformofskullshowthat,butfortheblackskinandwoollyhair,theywouldtakerankamongtheforemostEuropeans。
Thenextdivision,thatwhichembracesthecentreofthecontinent,canscarcelybecalledhilly,forwhathillsthereareareverylow。
Itconsistsforthemostpartofextensive,slightlyundulatingplains。
Therearenoloftymountains,butfewsprings,andstillfewerflowingstreamsRainisfarfromabundant,anddroughtsmaybeexpectedeveryfewyearsWithoutartificialirrigationnoEuropeangraincanberaised,andtheinhabitantsBechuanas,thoughevidentlyofthesamestock,originally,withthosealreadymentioned,andcloselyresemblingtheminbeinganagriculturalaswellasapastoralpeople,areacomparativelytimidrace,andinferiortotheCaffresinphysicaldevelopment。
Thewesterndivisionisstillmorelevelthanthemiddleone,beingruggedonlynearthecoastItincludesthegreatplaincalledtheKalahariDesert,whichisremarkableforlittlewaterandveryconsiderablevegetation。
Thereason,probably,whysolittlerainfallsonthisextensiveplainisthattheprevailingwindsofmostoftheinteriorcountryareeasterly,withalittlesouthingThemoisturetakenupbytheatmospherefromtheIndianOceanisdepositedontheeasternhillyslope;
andwhenthemovingmassofairreachesitsgreatestelevation,itisthenonthevergeofthegreatvalley,or,asinthecaseoftheKalahari,thegreatheatedinlandplains;there,meetingwiththerarefiedairofthathot,drysurface,theascendingheatgivesitgreatercapacityforretainingallitsremaininghumidity,andfewshowerscanbegiventothemiddleandwesternlandsinconsequenceoftheincreasedhygrometricpower。
Thisisthesamephenomenon,onagiganticscale,asthatwhichtakesplaceonTableMountain,attheCape,inwhatiscalledthespreadingofthe“table-cloth“Thesoutheastwindcausesamassofair,equaltothediameterofthemountain,suddenlytoascendatleastthreethousandfeet;thedilatationproducedbyaltitude,withitsattendantcold,causestheimmediateformationofacloudonthesummit;thewaterintheatmospherebecomesvisible;
successivemassesofgliding-upandpassing-overaircausethecontinualformationofclouds,butthetopofthevaporymass,or“table-cloth“,islevel,andseeminglymotionless;ontheleeside,however,thethickvolumesofvaporcurloveranddescend,butwhentheyreachthepointbelow,wheregreaterdensityandhighertemperatureimpartenlargedcapacityforcarryingwater,theyentirelydisappear。
Nowif,insteadofahollowontheleesideofTableMountain,wehadanelevatedheatedplain,thecloudswhichcurloverthatside,anddisappearastheydoatpresentwhena“southeaster“isblowing,mightdepositsomemoistureonthewindwardascentandtop;
buttheheatwouldthenimparttheincreasedcapacitytheairnowreceivesatthelowerlevelinitsdescenttoleeward,and,insteadofanextendedcountrywithafloraofthe`Disagrandiflora’,`gladiolus’,`rushes’,and`lichens’,whichnowappearonTableMountain,weshouldhaveonlythehardyvegetationoftheKalahari。
WhythereshouldbesomuchvegetationontheKalaharimaybeexplainedbythegeologicalformationofthecountryThereisarimorfringeofancientrocksroundagreatcentralvalley,which,dippinginward,formabasin,thebottomofwhichiscomposedoftheoldestsilurianrocks。
Thisbasinhasbeenburstthroughandfilledupinmanypartsbyeruptivetrapsandbreccias,whichoftenbearintheirsubstancesangularfragmentsofthemoreancientrocks,asshowninthefossilstheycontainNow,thoughlargeareashavebeensodislocatedthatbutlittletraceoftheoriginalvalleyformationappears,itishighlyprobablethatthebasinshapeprevailsoverlargetractsofthecountry;andasthestrataontheslopes,wheremostoftherainfalls,dipintowardthecentre,theyprobablyguidewaterbeneaththeplainsbutillsuppliedwithmoisturefromtheclouds。
Thephenomenonofstagnantfountainsbecomingbyanewanddeeperoutletnever-failingstreamsmaybeconfirmatoryoftheviewthatwaterisconveyedfromthesidesofthecountryintothebottomofthecentralvalley;
anditisnotbeyondtheboundsofpossibilitythatthewonderfulriversysteminthenorth,which,ifnativeinformationbecorrect,causesaconsiderableincreaseofwaterinthespringscalledMatlomagan-yanatheLinks,extendsitsfertilizinginfluencebeneaththeplainsoftheKalahari。
Thepeculiarformationofthecountrymayexplainwhythereissuchadifferenceinthevegetationbetweenthe20thand30thparallelsoflatitudeinSouthAfricaandthesamelatitudesinCentralAustraliaThewantofvegetationisastrueofsomepartstoointhecentreofSouthAmericaasofAustralia;
andthecauseofthedifferenceholdsoutaprobabilityforthesuccessofartesianwellsinextensivetractsofAfricanowunpeopledsolelyonaccountofthewantofsurfacewaterWemaybeallowedtospeculatealittleatleastonthefactofmuchgreatervegetation,which,fromwhateversourceitcomes,presentsforSouthAfricaprospectsoffuturegreatnesswhichwecannothopeforinCentralAustraliaAstheinteriordistrictsoftheCapeColonyaredailybecomingofhighervalue,offeringtohonestindustryafairremunerationforcapital,andhavingaclimateunequaledinsalubrityforconsumptivepatients,IshouldunhesitatinglyrecommendanyfarmeratallafraidofthatcomplaintinhisfamilytotrythiscolonyWiththemeansofeducationalreadypossessed,andtheonwardandupwardmovementoftheCapepopulation,heneedentertainnoapprehensionsofhisfamilysinkingintobarbarism。
Therouteweatthistimefollowedranalongthemiddle,orskirtedthewesternzonebeforealludedto,untilwereachedthelatitudeofLakeNgami,whereatotallydifferentcountrybegins。
Whileinthecolony,wepassedthroughdistrictsinhabitedbythedescendantsofDutchandFrenchrefugeeswhohadfledfromreligiouspersecutionThoselivingnearthecapitaldifferbutlittlefromthemiddleclassesinEnglishcounties,andaredistinguishedbypublicspiritandgeneralintelligence;whilethosesituatedfarfromthecentresofcivilizationarelessinformed,butareabodyoffrugal,industrious,andhospitablepeasantry。
AmostefficientsystemofpublicinstructionwasestablishedinthetimeofGovernorSirGeorgeNapier,onaplandrawnupinagreatmeasurebythataccomplishedphilosopher,SirJohnHerschel。
Thesystemhadtocontendwithlesssectarianrancorthanelsewhere;
indeed,untilquiterecently,thatspirit,exceptinamildform,wasunknown。
ThepopulationheredescribedoughtnottobeconfoundedwithsomeBoerswhofledfromBritishruleonaccountoftheemancipationoftheirHottentotslaves,andperhapsneverwouldhavebeensohadnoteverynowandthensomeRipVanWinklestartedforthattheCapetojustifyinthepublicprintsthedeedsofbloodandslave-huntinginthefarinteriorItisthereforenottobewonderedatifthewholeraceisconfoundedandheldinlowestimationbythosewhodonotknowtherealcompositionoftheCapecommunity。
PopulationamongtheBoersincreasesrapidly;theymarrysoon,areseldomsterile,andcontinuetohavechildrenlate。
IoncemetaworthymatronwhosehusbandthoughtitrighttoimitatetheconductofAbrahamwhileSarahwasbarren;sheevidentlyagreedintheproprietyofthemeasure,forshewaspleasedtohearthechildrenbyamotherofwhathasbeenthoughtaninferiorraceaddressherastheirmotherOrphansareneverallowedtoremainlongdestitute;
andinstancesarefrequentinwhichatender-heartedfarmerhasadoptedafatherlesschild,andwhenitcameofageportioneditashisown。
TwocenturiesoftheSouthAfricanclimatehavenothadmucheffectuponthephysicalconditionoftheBoersTheyareashadedarker,orratherruddier,thanEuropeans,andarenevercadaverous-looking,asdescendantsofEuropeansaresaidtobeelsewhere。
Thereisatendencytothedevelopmentofsteatopyga,socharacteristicofArabsandotherAfricantribes;anditisprobablethattheinteriorBoersinanothercenturywillbecomeincolorwhatthelearnedimagineourprogenitors,AdamandEve,tohavebeen。
Thepartsofthecolonythroughwhichwepassedwereofsterileaspect;
and,asthepresentwinterhadbeenprecededbyaseveredrought,manyfarmershadlosttwothirdsoftheirstockThelandscapewasuninviting;thehills,destituteoftrees,wereofadarkbrowncolor,andthescantyvegetationontheplainsmademefeelthattheydeservedthenameofDesertmorethantheKalahariWhenfirsttakenpossessionof,thesepartsaresaidtohavebeencoveredwithacoatingofgrass,butthathasdisappearedwiththeantelopeswhichfeduponit,andacropofmesembryanthemumsandcrassulasoccupiesitsplace。
Itiscurioustoobservehow,innature,organizationsthemostdissimilararemutuallydependentoneachotherfortheirperpetuation。
Heretheoriginalgrassesweredependentfordisseminationonthegrass-feedinganimals,whichscatteredtheseeds。
When,bythedeathoftheantelopes,nofreshsowingwasmade,theAfricandroughtsprovedtoomuchforthisformofvegetation。
ButeventhiscontingencywasforeseenbytheOmniscientOne;
for,aswemaynowobserveintheKalahariDesert,anotherfamilyofplants,themesembryanthemums,stoodreadytoneutralizetheariditywhichmustotherwisehavefollowedThisfamilyofplantspossessesseed-vesselswhichremainfirmlyshutontheircontentswhilethesoilishotanddry,andthuspreservethevegetativepowerintactduringthehighestheatofthetorridsun;butwhenrainfalls,theseed-vesselopensandshedsitscontentsjustwhenthereisthegreatestprobabilityoftheirvegetatingInotherplantsheatanddroughtcausetheseed-vesselstoburstandshedtheircharge。
Oneofthisfamilyisedible`Mesembryanthemumedule’;anotherpossessesatuberousroot,whichmaybeeatenraw;andallarefurnishedwiththick,fleshyleaves,havingporescapableofimbibingandretainingmoisturefromaverydryatmosphereandsoil,sothat,ifaleafisbrokenduringaperiodofthegreatestdrought,itshowsabundantcirculatingsap。
Theplantsofthisfamilyarefoundmuchfarthernorth,butthegreatabundanceofthegrassespreventsthemfrommakinganyshow。
There,however,theystandreadytofillupanygapwhichmayoccurinthepresentprevailingvegetation;andshouldthegrassesdisappear,animallifewouldnotnecessarilybedestroyed,becauseareservesupply,equivalenttoafreshactofcreativepower,hasbeenprovided。
Oneofthisfamily,`Mturbiniforme’,issocoloredastoblendinwellwiththehueofthesoilandstonesaroundit;anda`gryllus’ofthesamecolorfeedsonitInthecaseoftheinsect,thepeculiarcolorisgivenascompensationforthedeficiencyofthepowersofmotiontoenableittoeludethenoticeofbirdsThecontinuationofthespeciesisheretheendinview。
Inthecaseoftheplantthesamedeviceisadoptedforasortofdoubleend,viz。,perpetuationoftheplantbyhidingitfromanimals,withtheviewthatultimatelyitsextensiveappearancewillsustainthatrace。
Asthisnewvegetationisbetteradaptedforsheepandgoatsinadrycountrythangrass,theBoerssupplantthelatterbyimitatingtheprocessbywhichgraminivorousantelopeshavesoabundantlydisseminatedtheseedofgrassesAfewwagon-loadsofmesembryanthemumplants,inseed,arebroughttoafarmcoveredwithascantycropofcoarsegrass,andplacedonaspottowhichthesheephaveaccessintheevenings。
Astheyeatalittleeverynight,theseedsaredroppedoverthegrazinggroundsinthissimpleway,witharegularitywhichcouldnotbematchedexceptatthecostofanimmenseamountoflabor。
Theplacebecomesinthecourseofafewyearsasheep-farm,astheseanimalsthriveonsuchherbageAsalreadymentioned,someplantsofthisfamilyarefurnishedwithanadditionalcontrivanceforwithstandingdroughts,viz。,oblongtubers,which,burieddeepenoughbeneaththesoilforcompleteprotectionfromthescorchingsun,serveasreservoirsofsapandnutrimentduringthoserainlessperiodswhichrecurperpetuallyineventhemostfavoredspotsofAfricaIhaveadvertedtothispeculiarityasoftenseeninthevegetationoftheDesert;