首页 >出版文学> Travels and Researches in South Africa>第18章
  Ourroutetothenorthlaynearthecentreofthecone-shapedmassoflandwhichconstitutesthepromontoryoftheCapeIfwesupposethisconetobedividedintothreezonesorlongitudinalbands,wefindeachpresentingdistinctpeculiaritiesofclimate,physicalappearanceandpopulation。
  ThesearemoremarkedbeyondthanwithinthecolonyAtsomepointsonedistrictseemstobecontinuedinandtomergeintotheother,butthegeneraldissimilaritywarrantsthedivision,asanaidtomemory。
  Theeasternzoneisoftenfurnishedwithmountains,wellwoodedwithevergreensucculenttrees,onwhichneitherfirenordroughtscanhavethesmallesteffect`Strelitzia’,`Zamiahorrida’,`Portulacariaafra’,`Schotiaspeciosa’,`Euphorbias’,and`Aloesarborescens’;
  anditsseaboardgorgesarecladwithgigantictimber。
  Itisalsocomparativelywellwateredwithstreamsandflowingrivers。
  Theannualsupplyofrainisconsiderable,andtheinhabitantsCaffresorZulusaretall,muscular,andwellmade;
  theyareshrewd,energetic,andbrave;altogethertheymeritthecharactergiventhembymilitaryauthorities,ofbeing“magnificentsavages“。
  Theirsplendidphysicaldevelopmentandformofskullshowthat,butfortheblackskinandwoollyhair,theywouldtakerankamongtheforemostEuropeans。
  Thenextdivision,thatwhichembracesthecentreofthecontinent,canscarcelybecalledhilly,forwhathillsthereareareverylow。
  Itconsistsforthemostpartofextensive,slightlyundulatingplains。
  Therearenoloftymountains,butfewsprings,andstillfewerflowingstreamsRainisfarfromabundant,anddroughtsmaybeexpectedeveryfewyearsWithoutartificialirrigationnoEuropeangraincanberaised,andtheinhabitantsBechuanas,thoughevidentlyofthesamestock,originally,withthosealreadymentioned,andcloselyresemblingtheminbeinganagriculturalaswellasapastoralpeople,areacomparativelytimidrace,andinferiortotheCaffresinphysicaldevelopment。
  Thewesterndivisionisstillmorelevelthanthemiddleone,beingruggedonlynearthecoastItincludesthegreatplaincalledtheKalahariDesert,whichisremarkableforlittlewaterandveryconsiderablevegetation。
  Thereason,probably,whysolittlerainfallsonthisextensiveplainisthattheprevailingwindsofmostoftheinteriorcountryareeasterly,withalittlesouthingThemoisturetakenupbytheatmospherefromtheIndianOceanisdepositedontheeasternhillyslope;
  andwhenthemovingmassofairreachesitsgreatestelevation,itisthenonthevergeofthegreatvalley,or,asinthecaseoftheKalahari,thegreatheatedinlandplains;there,meetingwiththerarefiedairofthathot,drysurface,theascendingheatgivesitgreatercapacityforretainingallitsremaininghumidity,andfewshowerscanbegiventothemiddleandwesternlandsinconsequenceoftheincreasedhygrometricpower。
  Thisisthesamephenomenon,onagiganticscale,asthatwhichtakesplaceonTableMountain,attheCape,inwhatiscalledthespreadingofthe“table-cloth“Thesoutheastwindcausesamassofair,equaltothediameterofthemountain,suddenlytoascendatleastthreethousandfeet;thedilatationproducedbyaltitude,withitsattendantcold,causestheimmediateformationofacloudonthesummit;thewaterintheatmospherebecomesvisible;
  successivemassesofgliding-upandpassing-overaircausethecontinualformationofclouds,butthetopofthevaporymass,or“table-cloth“,islevel,andseeminglymotionless;ontheleeside,however,thethickvolumesofvaporcurloveranddescend,butwhentheyreachthepointbelow,wheregreaterdensityandhighertemperatureimpartenlargedcapacityforcarryingwater,theyentirelydisappear。
  Nowif,insteadofahollowontheleesideofTableMountain,wehadanelevatedheatedplain,thecloudswhichcurloverthatside,anddisappearastheydoatpresentwhena“southeaster“isblowing,mightdepositsomemoistureonthewindwardascentandtop;
  buttheheatwouldthenimparttheincreasedcapacitytheairnowreceivesatthelowerlevelinitsdescenttoleeward,and,insteadofanextendedcountrywithafloraofthe`Disagrandiflora’,`gladiolus’,`rushes’,and`lichens’,whichnowappearonTableMountain,weshouldhaveonlythehardyvegetationoftheKalahari。
  WhythereshouldbesomuchvegetationontheKalaharimaybeexplainedbythegeologicalformationofthecountryThereisarimorfringeofancientrocksroundagreatcentralvalley,which,dippinginward,formabasin,thebottomofwhichiscomposedoftheoldestsilurianrocks。
  Thisbasinhasbeenburstthroughandfilledupinmanypartsbyeruptivetrapsandbreccias,whichoftenbearintheirsubstancesangularfragmentsofthemoreancientrocks,asshowninthefossilstheycontainNow,thoughlargeareashavebeensodislocatedthatbutlittletraceoftheoriginalvalleyformationappears,itishighlyprobablethatthebasinshapeprevailsoverlargetractsofthecountry;andasthestrataontheslopes,wheremostoftherainfalls,dipintowardthecentre,theyprobablyguidewaterbeneaththeplainsbutillsuppliedwithmoisturefromtheclouds。
  Thephenomenonofstagnantfountainsbecomingbyanewanddeeperoutletnever-failingstreamsmaybeconfirmatoryoftheviewthatwaterisconveyedfromthesidesofthecountryintothebottomofthecentralvalley;
  anditisnotbeyondtheboundsofpossibilitythatthewonderfulriversysteminthenorth,which,ifnativeinformationbecorrect,causesaconsiderableincreaseofwaterinthespringscalledMatlomagan-yanatheLinks,extendsitsfertilizinginfluencebeneaththeplainsoftheKalahari。
  Thepeculiarformationofthecountrymayexplainwhythereissuchadifferenceinthevegetationbetweenthe20thand30thparallelsoflatitudeinSouthAfricaandthesamelatitudesinCentralAustraliaThewantofvegetationisastrueofsomepartstoointhecentreofSouthAmericaasofAustralia;
  andthecauseofthedifferenceholdsoutaprobabilityforthesuccessofartesianwellsinextensivetractsofAfricanowunpeopledsolelyonaccountofthewantofsurfacewaterWemaybeallowedtospeculatealittleatleastonthefactofmuchgreatervegetation,which,fromwhateversourceitcomes,presentsforSouthAfricaprospectsoffuturegreatnesswhichwecannothopeforinCentralAustraliaAstheinteriordistrictsoftheCapeColonyaredailybecomingofhighervalue,offeringtohonestindustryafairremunerationforcapital,andhavingaclimateunequaledinsalubrityforconsumptivepatients,IshouldunhesitatinglyrecommendanyfarmeratallafraidofthatcomplaintinhisfamilytotrythiscolonyWiththemeansofeducationalreadypossessed,andtheonwardandupwardmovementoftheCapepopulation,heneedentertainnoapprehensionsofhisfamilysinkingintobarbarism。
  Therouteweatthistimefollowedranalongthemiddle,orskirtedthewesternzonebeforealludedto,untilwereachedthelatitudeofLakeNgami,whereatotallydifferentcountrybegins。
  Whileinthecolony,wepassedthroughdistrictsinhabitedbythedescendantsofDutchandFrenchrefugeeswhohadfledfromreligiouspersecutionThoselivingnearthecapitaldifferbutlittlefromthemiddleclassesinEnglishcounties,andaredistinguishedbypublicspiritandgeneralintelligence;whilethosesituatedfarfromthecentresofcivilizationarelessinformed,butareabodyoffrugal,industrious,andhospitablepeasantry。
  AmostefficientsystemofpublicinstructionwasestablishedinthetimeofGovernorSirGeorgeNapier,onaplandrawnupinagreatmeasurebythataccomplishedphilosopher,SirJohnHerschel。
  Thesystemhadtocontendwithlesssectarianrancorthanelsewhere;
  indeed,untilquiterecently,thatspirit,exceptinamildform,wasunknown。
  ThepopulationheredescribedoughtnottobeconfoundedwithsomeBoerswhofledfromBritishruleonaccountoftheemancipationoftheirHottentotslaves,andperhapsneverwouldhavebeensohadnoteverynowandthensomeRipVanWinklestartedforthattheCapetojustifyinthepublicprintsthedeedsofbloodandslave-huntinginthefarinteriorItisthereforenottobewonderedatifthewholeraceisconfoundedandheldinlowestimationbythosewhodonotknowtherealcompositionoftheCapecommunity。
  PopulationamongtheBoersincreasesrapidly;theymarrysoon,areseldomsterile,andcontinuetohavechildrenlate。
  IoncemetaworthymatronwhosehusbandthoughtitrighttoimitatetheconductofAbrahamwhileSarahwasbarren;sheevidentlyagreedintheproprietyofthemeasure,forshewaspleasedtohearthechildrenbyamotherofwhathasbeenthoughtaninferiorraceaddressherastheirmotherOrphansareneverallowedtoremainlongdestitute;
  andinstancesarefrequentinwhichatender-heartedfarmerhasadoptedafatherlesschild,andwhenitcameofageportioneditashisown。
  TwocenturiesoftheSouthAfricanclimatehavenothadmucheffectuponthephysicalconditionoftheBoersTheyareashadedarker,orratherruddier,thanEuropeans,andarenevercadaverous-looking,asdescendantsofEuropeansaresaidtobeelsewhere。
  Thereisatendencytothedevelopmentofsteatopyga,socharacteristicofArabsandotherAfricantribes;anditisprobablethattheinteriorBoersinanothercenturywillbecomeincolorwhatthelearnedimagineourprogenitors,AdamandEve,tohavebeen。
  Thepartsofthecolonythroughwhichwepassedwereofsterileaspect;
  and,asthepresentwinterhadbeenprecededbyaseveredrought,manyfarmershadlosttwothirdsoftheirstockThelandscapewasuninviting;thehills,destituteoftrees,wereofadarkbrowncolor,andthescantyvegetationontheplainsmademefeelthattheydeservedthenameofDesertmorethantheKalahariWhenfirsttakenpossessionof,thesepartsaresaidtohavebeencoveredwithacoatingofgrass,butthathasdisappearedwiththeantelopeswhichfeduponit,andacropofmesembryanthemumsandcrassulasoccupiesitsplace。
  Itiscurioustoobservehow,innature,organizationsthemostdissimilararemutuallydependentoneachotherfortheirperpetuation。
  Heretheoriginalgrassesweredependentfordisseminationonthegrass-feedinganimals,whichscatteredtheseeds。
  When,bythedeathoftheantelopes,nofreshsowingwasmade,theAfricandroughtsprovedtoomuchforthisformofvegetation。
  ButeventhiscontingencywasforeseenbytheOmniscientOne;
  for,aswemaynowobserveintheKalahariDesert,anotherfamilyofplants,themesembryanthemums,stoodreadytoneutralizetheariditywhichmustotherwisehavefollowedThisfamilyofplantspossessesseed-vesselswhichremainfirmlyshutontheircontentswhilethesoilishotanddry,andthuspreservethevegetativepowerintactduringthehighestheatofthetorridsun;butwhenrainfalls,theseed-vesselopensandshedsitscontentsjustwhenthereisthegreatestprobabilityoftheirvegetatingInotherplantsheatanddroughtcausetheseed-vesselstoburstandshedtheircharge。
  Oneofthisfamilyisedible`Mesembryanthemumedule’;anotherpossessesatuberousroot,whichmaybeeatenraw;andallarefurnishedwiththick,fleshyleaves,havingporescapableofimbibingandretainingmoisturefromaverydryatmosphereandsoil,sothat,ifaleafisbrokenduringaperiodofthegreatestdrought,itshowsabundantcirculatingsap。
  Theplantsofthisfamilyarefoundmuchfarthernorth,butthegreatabundanceofthegrassespreventsthemfrommakinganyshow。
  There,however,theystandreadytofillupanygapwhichmayoccurinthepresentprevailingvegetation;andshouldthegrassesdisappear,animallifewouldnotnecessarilybedestroyed,becauseareservesupply,equivalenttoafreshactofcreativepower,hasbeenprovided。
  Oneofthisfamily,`Mturbiniforme’,issocoloredastoblendinwellwiththehueofthesoilandstonesaroundit;anda`gryllus’ofthesamecolorfeedsonitInthecaseoftheinsect,thepeculiarcolorisgivenascompensationforthedeficiencyofthepowersofmotiontoenableittoeludethenoticeofbirdsThecontinuationofthespeciesisheretheendinview。
  Inthecaseoftheplantthesamedeviceisadoptedforasortofdoubleend,viz。,perpetuationoftheplantbyhidingitfromanimals,withtheviewthatultimatelyitsextensiveappearancewillsustainthatrace。
  Asthisnewvegetationisbetteradaptedforsheepandgoatsinadrycountrythangrass,theBoerssupplantthelatterbyimitatingtheprocessbywhichgraminivorousantelopeshavesoabundantlydisseminatedtheseedofgrassesAfewwagon-loadsofmesembryanthemumplants,inseed,arebroughttoafarmcoveredwithascantycropofcoarsegrass,andplacedonaspottowhichthesheephaveaccessintheevenings。
  Astheyeatalittleeverynight,theseedsaredroppedoverthegrazinggroundsinthissimpleway,witharegularitywhichcouldnotbematchedexceptatthecostofanimmenseamountoflabor。
  Theplacebecomesinthecourseofafewyearsasheep-farm,astheseanimalsthriveonsuchherbageAsalreadymentioned,someplantsofthisfamilyarefurnishedwithanadditionalcontrivanceforwithstandingdroughts,viz。,oblongtubers,which,burieddeepenoughbeneaththesoilforcompleteprotectionfromthescorchingsun,serveasreservoirsofsapandnutrimentduringthoserainlessperiodswhichrecurperpetuallyineventhemostfavoredspotsofAfricaIhaveadvertedtothispeculiarityasoftenseeninthevegetationoftheDesert;