Theysurelydonotknow,whentheywriteitintheirbooks,thattheyaredeclaringtheyhavecompromisedthehonorofEnglishmen。
Thepeoplereceivetheofferingwithadegreeofshame,andladiesmaybeseentohanditquicklytotheattendants,and,whentheyretire,laughuntilthetearsstandintheireyes,sayingtothoseaboutthem,“Isthatawhiteman?thenthereareniggardsamongthemtoo。
Someofthemarebornwithouthearts!”Onewhitetrader,havingpresentedanOLDGUNtoachief,becameastandingjokeinthetribe:
“Thewhitemanwhomadeapresentofagunthatwasnewwhenhisgrandfatherwassuckinghisgreat-grandmother。”
Whenthesetricksarerepeated,thenativescometotheconclusionthatpeoplewhoshowsuchawantofsensemustbetoldtheirduty;
theythereforeletthemknowwhattheyoughttogive,andtravelersthencomplainofbeingpesteredwiththeir“shamelessbegging“。
Iwastroubledbyimportunityontheconfinesofcivilizationonly,andwhenIfirstcametoAfrica。
FEBRUARY4THWeweremuchdetainedbyrains,aheavyshowerwithoutwindfallingeverymorningaboutdaybreak;itoftenclearedupafterthat,admittingofourmovingonafewmilesAcontinuousrainofseveralhoursthensetinThewinduptothispointwasalwaysfromtheeast,butbothrainandwindnowcamesogenerallyfromthewest,oroppositedirectiontowhatwehadbeenaccustomedtointheinterior,thatwewereobligedtomakeourencampmentfacetheeast,inordertohavetheminourbacksThecountryadjacenttotheriveraboundsinlargetrees;butthepopulationissonumerousthat,thoseleftbeingallgreen,itisdifficulttogetdryfirewood。
Oncomingtosomeplaces,too,wewerewarnedbythevillagersnottocutthetreesgrowingincertainspots,astheycontainedthegravesoftheirancestorsTherearemanytamarind-trees,andanotherverysimilar,whichyieldsafruitaslargeasasmallwalnut,ofwhichtheelephantsareveryfondItiscalledMotondo,andthePortugueseextolitstimberasexcellentforbuildingboats,asitdoesnotsoonrotinwater。
Onthe6thwecametothevillageofBoroma,whichissituatedamonganumberofothers,eachsurroundedbyextensivepatchesofcultivation。
OntheoppositesideoftheriverwehaveagreatclusterofconicalhillscalledChorichoriBoromadidnotmakehisappearance,butsentasubstitutewhoactedcivillyIsentSekwebuinthemorningtostatethatweintendedtomoveon;hismotherrepliedthat,asshehadexpectedthatweshouldremain,nofoodwasready,butshesentabasketofcornandafowlAsanexcusewhyBoromadidnotpresenthimself,shesaidthathewasseizedthatmorningbytheBarimo,whichprobablymeantthathislordshipwasdrunk。
WemarchedalongtherivertoapointoppositethehillPinkwelat15d39’11“S。,long32d5’E。,butthelateabundantrainsnowfloodedtheZambesiagain,andgreatquantitiesofwreckappeareduponthestreamItisprobablethatfrequentfreshets,causedbytherainsonthissideoftheridge,havepreventedthePortuguesenearthecoastfromrecognizingtheonepeculiarfloodofinundationobservedintheinterior,andcausedthebeliefthatitisfloodedsoonafterthecommencementoftherainsThecourseoftheNilebeingintheoppositedirectiontothis,itdoesnotreceivethesesubsidiarywaters,andhenceitsinundationisrecognizedallthewayalongitscourseIftheLeeambyewereprolongedsouthwardintotheCapeColony,itsfloodwouldbeidenticalwiththatoftheNile。
ItwouldnotbeinfluencedbyanystreamsintheKalahari,forthere,asinacorrespondingpartoftheNile,therewouldbenofeeders。
ItistoberememberedthatthegreatancientriverwhichflowedtothelakeatBoochaptookthiscourseexactly,andprobablyflowedthitheruntilthefissureofthefallswasmade。
Thisfloodhavingfilledtheriver,wefoundthenumerousrivuletswhichflowintoitfilledalso,andwhengoingalongtheZambesi,welostsomuchtimeinpassingupeachlittlestreamtillwecouldfindafordaboutwaistdeep,andthenreturningtothebank,thatIresolvedtoleavetheriveraltogether,andstrikeawaytothesoutheastWeaccordinglystruckoffwhenoppositethehillPinkwe,andcameintoahardMopanecountryInaholeofoneofthemopane-treesInoticedthatasquirrel`Sciuruscepapi’hadplacedagreatnumberoffreshleavesoverastoreofseedItisnotagainstthecoldofwinterthattheythuslayupfood,butitisaprovisionagainstthehotseason,whenthetreeshavegenerallynoseed。
Agreatmanysilicifiedtreesaremetwithlyingonthegroundalloverthispartofthecountry;somearebrokenoffhorizontally,andstandupright;othersarelyingprone,andbrokenacrossintoanumberofpiecesOnewas4feet8inchesindiameter,andthewoodmusthavebeensoftlikethatofthebaobab,fortherewereonlysixconcentricringstotheinchAsthesemidiameterwasonly28inches,thislargetreecouldhavebeenbut168yearsold。
Ifoundalsoapieceofpalm-treetransformedintooxideofiron,andtheporesfilledwithpuresilicaThesefossiltreeslieuponsoftgraysandstonecontainingbanksofshingle,whichformstheunderlyingrockofthecountryallthewayfromZumbotonearLupata。
ItismetwithatLitubarubaandinAngola,withsimilarbanksofshingleimbeddedexactlylikethosenowseenonthesea-beach,butInevercouldfindashellTherearemanynodulesandmoundsofhardenedclayuponit,whichseemtohavebeendepositedineddiesmaderoundtherootsoftheseancienttrees,fortheyappearofdifferentcolorsinwavyandtwistedlines。
Abovethiswehavesmallquantitiesofcalcareousmarl。
AswewerenowinthedistrictofChicova,Iexaminedthegeologicalstructureofthecountrywithinterest,becausehere,ithasbeenstated,thereonceexistedsilverminesThegeneralrockisthegraysoftsandstoneIhavementioned,butattherivuletBanguewecomeuponadikeofbasaltsixyardswide,runningnorthandsouth。
Whenwecrossthis,wecomeuponseveralothers,someofwhichrunmoretotheeastwardThesandstoneisthenfoundtohavebeendisturbed,andattherivuletcalledNakewefoundittiltedupandexhibitingasection,whichwascoarsesandstoneabove,sandstone-flag,shale,and,lastly,athinseamofcoalThesectionwasonlyshownforashortdistance,andthenbecamelostbyafaultmadebyadikeofbasalt,whichrantotheE。N。EinthedirectionofChicova。
ThisChicovaisnotakingdom,ashasbeenstated,butaleveltract,apartofwhichisannuallyoverflowedbytheZambesi,andiswelladaptedforthecultivationofcornItissaidtobebelowthenorthernendofthehillBungweIwasverymuchpleasedindiscoveringthissmallspecimenofsuchapreciousmineralascoal。
Isawnoindicationofsilver,and,ifiteverwasworkedbythenatives,itisremarkablethattheyhaveentirelylosttheknowledgeofit,andcannotdistinguishbetweensilverandtinInconnectionwiththesebasalticdikes,itmaybementionedthatwhenIreachedTeteIwasinformedoftheexistenceofasmallrapidintherivernearChicova;
hadIknownthispreviously,IcertainlywouldnothavelefttheriverwithoutexaminingitItiscalledKebrabasa,andisdescribedasanumberofrockswhichjutoutacrossthestreamIhavenodoubtbutthatitisformedbysomeofthebasalticdikeswhichwenowsaw,fortheygenerallyrantowardthatpointIwaspartlyinfluencedinleavingtheriverbyawishtoavoidseveralchiefsinthatdirection,wholevyaheavytributeonthosewhopassupordownOurpathlayalongthebedoftheNakeforsomedistance,thebanksbeingcoveredwithimpenetrablethicketsThevillagesarenotnumerous,butwewentfromonetotheother,andweretreatedkindly。
HeretheycallthemselvesBambiri,thoughthegeneralnameofthewholenationisBanyaiOneofourguideswasaninveteratetalker,alwaysstoppingandaskingforpay,thathemightgoonwithamerryheart。
Ithoughtthatheledusinthemostdifficultpathsinordertomakeusfeelhisvalue,for,afterpassingthroughonethicketafteranother,wealwayscameintothebedoftheNakeagain,andasthatwasfullofcoarsesand,andthewateronlyankledeep,andashotasafoot-bathfromthepowerfulraysofthesun,wewereallcompletelytiredoutHelikewisegaveusabadcharacterateveryvillagewepassed,callingtothemthattheyweretoallowhimtoleadusastray,aswewereabadsetSekwebukneweverywordhesaid,and,ashebecameintolerable,Idismissedhim,givinghimsixfeetofcalicoIhadboughtfromnativetraders,andtellinghimthathistonguewasanuisanceItisingeneralbest,whenascoldingisnecessary,togiveitincombinationwithapresent,andthenenditbygoodwishes。
Thisfellowwentoffsmiling,andmymenremarked,“Histongueiscurednow。”
ThecountryaroundtheNakeishilly,andthevalleyscoveredwithtangledjungleThepeoplewholiveinthisdistricthavereclaimedtheirgardensfromtheforest,andthesoilisextremelyfertile。
TheNakeflowsnortherly,andthentotheeastItis50or60yardswide,butduringmostoftheyearisdry,affordingwateronlybydigginginthesandWefoundinitsbedmassesofvolcanicrock,identicalwiththoseIsubsequentlyrecognizedassuchatAden。
13THTheheadmanofthesepartsisnamedNyampungo。
Isentthelastfragmentofclothwehad,witharequestthatweshouldbefurnishedwithaguidetothenextchief。
Afteralongconferencewithhiscouncil,theclothwasreturnedwithapromiseofcompliance,andarequestforsomebeadsonly。
Thismanissupposedtopossessthecharmforrain,andothertribessendtohimtobegitThisshowsthatwhatweinferredbeforewascorrect,thatlessrainfallsinthiscountrythaninLondaNyampungobehavedinquiteagentlemanlymanner,presentedmewithsomerice,andtoldmypeopletogoamongallthevillagesandbegforthemselves。
Anoldman,father-in-lawofthechief,toldmethathehadseenbooksbefore,butneverknewwhattheymeantTheypraytodepartedchiefsandrelatives,buttheideaofprayingtoGodseemednew,andtheyhearditwithreverence。
Asthiswasanintelligentoldman,Iaskedhimaboutthesilver,buthewasasignorantofitastherest,andsaid,“Weneverdugsilver,butwehavewashedforgoldinthesandsoftheriversMazoeandLuia,whichuniteintheLuenya。”Ithinkthatthisisquiteconclusiveonthequestionofnosilverhavingbeendugbythenativesofthisdistrict。
NyampungoisafflictedwithakindofdiseasecalledSesenda,whichIimaginetobeaspeciesofleprosycommoninthisquarter,thoughtheyareacleanlypeopleTheyneverhadcattle。
Thechief’sfatherhadalwayslivedintheirpresentposition,and,whenIaskedhimwhyhedidnotpossesstheseusefulanimals,hesaid,“Whowouldgiveusthemedicinetoenableustokeepthem?”
Ifoundoutthereasonafterwardintheprevalenceoftsetse,butofthishewasignorant,havingsupposedthathecouldnotkeepcattlebecausehehadnomedicine。