首页 >出版文学> North America>第1章

第1章

  INTRODUCTION。
  IthasbeentheambitionofmyliterarylifetowriteabookabouttheUnitedStates,andIhadmadeupmymindtovisitthecountrywiththisobjectbeforetheintestinetroublesoftheUnitedStatesgovernmenthadcommenced。IhavenotallowedthedivisionamongtheStatesandthebreakingoutofcivilwartointerferewithmyintention;butIshouldnotpurposelyhavechosenthisperiodeitherformybookorformyvisit。Isaysomuch,inorderthatitmaynotbesupposedthatitismyspecialpurposetowriteanaccountofthestruggleasfarasithasyetbeencarried。Mywishistodescribe,aswellasIcan,thepresentsocialandpoliticalstateofthecountry。ThisIshouldhaveattempted,withmorepersonalsatisfactioninthework,hadtherebeennodisruptionbetweentheNorthandSouth;butIhavenotallowedthatdisruptiontodetermefromanobjectwhich,ifitweredelayed,mightprobablyneverbecarriedout。Iamthereforeforcedtotakethesubjectinitspresentcondition,andbeingsoforcedImustwriteofthewar,ofthecauseswhichhaveledtoit,andofitsprobabletermination。ButIwishittobeunderstoodthatitwasnotmyselectedtasktodoso,andisnotnowmyprimaryobject。
  ThirtyyearsagomymotherwroteabookabouttheAmericans,towhichIbelieveImayalludeasawell-knownandsuccessfulworkwithoutbeingguiltyofanyunduefamilyconceit。Thatwasessentiallyawoman'sbook。Shesawwithawoman'skeeneye,anddescribedwithawoman'slightbutgraphicpen,thesocialdefectsandabsurditieswhichournearrelativeshadadoptedintotheirdomesticlife。Allthatshetoldwasworththetelling,andthetelling,ifdonesuccessfully,wassuretoproduceagoodresult。
  Iamsatisfiedthatitdidso。Butshedidnotregarditasapartofherworktodilateonthenatureandoperationofthosepoliticalarrangementswhichhadproducedthesocialabsurditieswhichshesaw,ortoexplainthatthoughsuchabsurditieswerethenaturalresultofthosearrangementsintheirnewness,thedefectswouldcertainlypassaway,whilethepoliticalarrangements,ifgood,wouldremain。Suchaworkisfitterforamanthanforawoman,IamveryfarfromthinkingthatitisataskwhichIcanperformwithsatisfactioneithertomyselfortoothers。Itisaworkwhichsomemanwilldowhohasearnedarightbyeducation,study,andsuccesstorankhimselfamongthepoliticalsagesofhisage。ButImayperhapsbeabletoaddsomethingtothefamiliarityofEnglishmenwithAmericans。ThewritingswhichhavebeenmostpopularinEnglandonthesubjectoftheUnitedStateshavehithertodealtchieflywithsocialdetails;andthoughinmostcasestrueanduseful,havecreatedlaughterononesideoftheAtlantic,andsorenessontheother。ifIcoulddoanythingtomitigatethesoreness,ifIcouldinanysmalldegreeaddtothegoodfeelingwhichshouldexistbetweentwonationswhichoughttoloveeachothersowell,andwhichdohanguponeachothersoconstantly,IshouldthinkthatIhadcausetobeproudofmywork。
  Butitisveryhardtowriteaboutanycountryabookthatdoesnotrepresentthecountrydescribedinamoreorlessridiculouspointofview。ItishardatleasttodosoinsuchabookasImustwrite。AdeTocquevillemaydoit。Itmaybedonebyanyphilosophico-politicalorpolitico-statistical,orstatistico-
  scientificwriter;butitcanhardlybedonebyamanwhoprofessestousealightpen,andtomanufacturehisarticlefortheuseofgeneralreaders。Suchawritermaytellallthatheseesofthebeautiful;buthemustalsotell,ifnotallthatheseesoftheludicrous,atanyratethemostpiquantpartofit。Howtodothiswithoutbeingoffensiveistheproblemwhichamanwithsuchataskbeforehimhastosolve。Hisfirstdutyisowedtohisreaders,andconsistsmainlyinthis:thatheshalltellthetruth,andshallsotellthattruththatwhathehaswrittenmaybereadable。
  Butaseconddutyisduetothoseofwhomhewrites;andhedoesnotperformthatdutywellifhegivesoffensetothoseastowhom,onthesummingupofthewholeevidenceforandagainsttheminhisownmind,heintendstogiveafavorableverdict。Thereareofcoursethoseagainstwhomawriterdoesnotintendtogiveafavorableverdict;peopleandplaceswhomhedesirestodescribe,ontheperilofhisownjudgment,asbad,illeducated,ugly,andodious。Insuchcaseshiscourseisstraightforwardenough。Hisjudgmentmaybeingreatperil,buthisvolumeorchapterwillbeeasilywritten。Ridiculeandcensurerungliblyfromthepen,andformthemselvesintosharpparagraphswhicharepleasanttothereader。Whereaseulogyiscommonlydull,andtoofrequentlysoundsasthoughitwerefalse。Thereismuchdifficultyinexpressingaverdictwhichisintendedtobefavorable;butwhich,thoughfavorable,shallnotbefalselyeulogistic;andthoughtrue,notoffensive。
  Whohasevertraveledinforeigncountrieswithoutmeetingexcellentstoriesagainstthecitizensofsuchcountries?Andhowfewcantravelwithouthearingsuchstoriesagainstthemselves!ItisimpossibleformetoavoidtellingofaveryexcellentgentlemanwhomImetbeforeIhadbeenintheUnitedStatesaweek,andwhoaskedmewhetherlordsinEnglandeverspoketomenwhowerenotlords。NorcanIomittheopeningaddressofanothergentlemantomywife。“Youlikeourinstitutions,ma'am?““Yes,indeed,“saidmywife,notwithallthateagernessofassentwhichtheoccasionperhapsrequired。“Ah,“saidhe,“Ineveryetmetthedown-troddensubjectofadespotwhodidnothughischains。“Thefirstgentlemanwascertainlysomewhatignorantofourcustoms,andthesecondwasratherabruptinhiscondemnationofthepoliticalprinciplesofapersonwhomheonlyfirstsawatthatmoment。Itcomestomeinthewayofmytradetorepeatsuchincidents;butI
  cantellstorieswhicharequiteasgoodagainstEnglishmen。As,forinstance,whenIwastappedonthebackinoneofthegalleriesofFlorencebyacountrymanofmine,andaskedtoshowhimwherestoodthemedicalVenus。NorisanythingthatonecansayoftheinconveniencesattendantupontravelintheUnitedStatestobebeatenbywhatforeignersmighttrulysayofus。IshallneverforgetthelookofaFrenchmanwhomIfoundonawetafternooninthebestinnofaprovincialtowninthewestofEngland。Hewasseatedonahorsehair-coveredchairinthemiddleofasmall,dingy,ill-furnishedprivatesitting-room。NoeloquenceofminecouldmakeintelligibletoaFrenchmanoranAmericantheutterdesolationofsuchanapartment。TheworldasthenseenbythatFrenchmanofferedhimsolaceofnodescription。Theairwithoutwasheavy,dull,andthick。Thestreetbeyondthewindowwasdarkandnarrow。Theroomcontainedmahoganychairscoveredwithhorse-
  hair,amahoganytable,ricketyinitslegs,andamahoganysideboardornamentedwithinvertedglassesandoldcruet-stands。
  TheFrenchmanhadcometothehouseforshelterandfood,andhadbeenaskedwhetherhewascommercial。Whereuponheshookhishead。
  “Didhewantasitting-room?“Yes,hedid。“Hewasaleetletiredandvantedtoseet。“Whereuponhewaspresumedtohaveorderedaprivateroom,andwasshownuptotheEdenIhavedescribed。I
  foundhimthereatdeath'sdoor。NothingthatIcansaywithreferencetothesocialhabitsoftheAmericanscantellmoreagainstthemthanthestoryofthatFrenchman'sfatetellsagainstthoseofourcountry。
  FromwhichremarksIwouldwishtobeunderstoodasdeprecatingoffensefrommyAmericanfriends,ifinthecourseofmybookshouldbefoundaughtwhichmayseemtoargueagainsttheexcellenceoftheirinstitutionsandthegraceoftheirsociallife。OfthisatanyrateIcanassurethem,insoberearnestness,thatIadmirewhattheyhavedoneintheworldandfortheworldwithatrueandheartyadmiration;andthatwhetherornoalltheirinstitutionsbeatpresentexcellent,andtheirsociallifeallgraceful,mywishesarethattheyshouldbeso,andmyconvictionsarethatthatimprovementwillcomeforwhichtheremayperhapsevenyetbesomelittleroom。
  AndnowtouchingthiswarwhichhadbrokenoutbetweentheNorthandSouthbeforeIleftEngland。Iwouldwishtoexplainwhatmyfeelingswere;orratherwhatIbelievethegeneralfeelingsofEnglandtohavebeenbeforeIfoundmyselfamongthepeoplebywhomitwasbeingwaged。Itisverydifficultforthepeopleofanyonenationtorealizethepoliticalrelationsofanother,andtochewthecudanddigestthebearingsofthoseexternalpolitics。Butitisunjustintheonetodecideuponthepoliticalaspirationsanddoingsofthatotherwithoutsuchunderstanding。ConstantlyasthenameofFranceisinourmouths,comparativelyfewEnglishmenunderstandthewayinwhichFranceisgoverned;thatis,howfarabsolutedespotismprevails,andhowfarthepoweroftheoneruleristempered,or,asitmaybe,hamperedbythevoicesandinfluenceofothers。AndasregardsEngland,howseldomisitthatincommonsocietyaforeignerismetwhocomprehendsthenatureofherpoliticalarrangements!ToaFrenchman——Idonotofcourseincludegreatmenwhohavemadethesubjectastudy,——buttotheordinaryintelligentFrenchmanthethingisaltogetherincomprehensible。
  Language,itmaybesaid,hasmuchtodowiththat。ButanAmericanspeaksEnglish;andhowoftenisanAmericanmetwhohascombinedinhismindtheideaofamonarch,socalled,withthatofarepublic,properlysonamed——acombinationofideaswhichItaketobenecessarytotheunderstandingofEnglishpolitics!Thegentlemanwhoscornedmywifeforhuggingherchainshadcertainlynotdoneso,andyetheconceivedthathehadstudiedthesubject。
  Thematterisonemostdifficultofcomprehension。HowmanyEnglishmenhavefailedtounderstandaccuratelytheirownconstitution,orthetruebearingoftheirownpolitics!Butwhenthisknowledgehasbeenattained,ithasgenerallybeenfilteredintothemindslowly,andhascomefromtheunconsciousstudyofmanyyears。AnEnglishmanhandlesanewspaperforaquarterofanhourdaily,anddailyexchangessomefewwordsinpoliticswiththosearoundhim,tilldropbydropthepleasantspringsofhislibertycreepintohismindandwaterhisheart;andthus,earlierorlaterinlife,accordingtothenatureofhisintelligence,heunderstandswhyitisthatheisatallpointsafreeman。Butifthisbesoofourownpolitics;ifitbesorareathingtofindaforeignerwhounderstandstheminalltheirniceties,whyisitthatwearesoconfidentinourremarksonallthenicetiesofthoseofothernations?
  IhopethatImaynotbemisunderstoodassayingthatweshouldnotdiscussforeignpoliticsinourpress,ourparliament,ourpublicmeetings,orourprivatehouses。Nomancouldbemadenoughtopreachsuchadoctrine。Asregardsourparliament,thatisprobablythebestBritishschoolofforeignpolitics,seeingthatthesubjectisnotthereoftentakenupbymenwhoareabsolutelyignorant,andthatmistakeswhenmadearesubjecttoacorrectionwhichisbothroughandready。Thepress,thoughveryliabletoerror,laborshardatitsvocationinteachingforeignpolitics,andsparesnoexpenseinlettingindaylight。Ifthelightletinbesometimesmoonshine,excusemayeasilybemade。Wheresomuchisattempted,theremustnecessarilybesomefailure。Buteventhemoonshinedoesgoodifitbenotoffensivemoonshine。WhatIwoulddeprecateis,thataptnessatreproachwhichweassume;thereadinesswithscorn,thequietwordsofinsult,theinstantjudgmentandcondemnationwithwhichwearesoinclinedtovisit,notthegreatoutwardacts,butthesmallerinwardpoliticsofourneighbors。
  Anddoothersspareus?willbetheinstantreplyofallwhomayreadthis。InmycounterreplyImakeboldtoplacemyselfandmycountryonveryhighground,andtosaythatwe,theolderandthereforemoreexperiencedpeopleasregardstheUnitedStates,andthebettergovernedasregardsFrance,andthestrongerasregardsalltheworldbeyond,shouldnotthrowmudagaineventhoughmudbethrownatus。Iyieldthepathtoasmallchimney-sweeperasreadilyastoalady;andforbearfromaninterchangeofcourtesieswithaBillingsgateheroine,eventhoughatheartImayhaveaproudconsciousnessthatIshouldnotaltogethergotothewallinsuchanencounter。
  IleftEnglandinAugustlast——August,1861。Atthattime,andforsomemonthsprevious,IthinkthatthegeneralEnglishfeelingontheAmericanquestionwasasfollows:“Thiswide-spreadnationalityoftheUnitedStates,withitsenormousterritorialpossessionsandincreasingpopulation,hasfallenasunder,torntopiecesbytheweightofitsowndiscordantparts——asacongregationwhenitssizehasbecomeunwieldywillseparate,andreformitselfintotwowholesomewholes。Itiswellthatthisshouldbeso,forthepeoplearenothomogeneous,asapeopleshouldbewhoarecalledtolivetogetherasonenation。Theyhaveattemptedtocombinefree-
  soilsentimentswiththepracticeofslavery,andtomakethesetwoantagonistslivetogetherinpeaceandunityunderthesameroof;
  but,aswehavelongexpected,theyhavefailed。Nowhascometheperiodforseparation;andifthepeoplewouldonlyseethis,andactinaccordancewiththecircumstanceswhichProvidenceandtheinevitablehandoftheworld'sRulerhaspreparedforthem,allwouldbewell。Buttheywillnotdothis。Theywillgotowarwitheachother。TheSouthwillmakeherdemandsforsecessionwithanarroganceandinstantpressurewhichexasperatestheNorth;
  andtheNorth,forgettingthatanequabletemperinsuchmattersisthemostpowerfulofallweapons,willnotrecognizethestrengthofitsownposition。Itallowsitselftobeexasperated,andgoestowarforthatwhichifregainedwouldonlybeinjurioustoit。
  Thusmillionsonmillionssterlingwillbespent。Aheavydebtwillbeincurred;andtheNorth,whichdividedfromtheSouthmighttakeitsplaceamongthegreatestofnations,willthrowitselfbackforhalfacentury,andperhapsinjurethesplendorofitsultimateprospects。Ifonlytheywouldbewise,throwdowntheirarms,andagreetopart!Buttheywillnot。“
  ThiswasIthinkthegeneralopinionwhenIleftEngland。Itwouldnot,however,benecessarytogobackmanymonthstoreachthetimewhenEnglishmenweresayinghowimpossibleitwasthatsogreatanationalpowershouldignoreitsowngreatnessanddestroyitsownpowerbyaninternecineseparation。ButinAugustlastallthathadgoneby,andweinEnglandhadrealizedtheprobabilityofactualsecession。
  Tothesefeelingsonthesubjectmaybeaddedanother,whichwasnaturalenoughthoughperhapsnotnoble。“Thesewesterncockshavecrowedloudly,“wesaid;“tooloudlyforthecomfortofthosewholiveafterallatnosuchgreatdistancefromthem。Itiswellthattheircombsshouldbeclipped。Cockswhocrowsoveryloudlyareanuisance。Itmighthavegonesofarthattheclippingwouldbecomeaworknecessarilytobedonefromwithout。Butitistentimesbetterforallpartiesthatitshouldbedonefromwithin;
  andasthecocksarenowclippingtheirowncombs,inGod'snameletthemdoit,andthewholeworldwillbethequieter。“That,I
  say,wasnotaverynobleidea;butitwasnaturalenough,andcertainlyhasdonesomewhatinmitigatingthatgriefwhichthehorrorsofcivilwarandthewantofcottonhavecausedtousinEngland。
  Suchcertainlyhadbeenmybeliefastothecountry。Ispeakhereofmyopinionastotheultimatesuccessofsecessionandthefollyofthewar,repudiatinganyconcurrenceofmyownintheignoblebutnaturalsentimentalludedtointhelastparagraph。I
  certainlydidthinkthattheNorthernStates,ifwise,wouldhavelettheSouthernStatesgo。IhadblamedBuchananasatraitorforallowingthegermofsecessiontomakeanygrowth;andasIthoughthimatraitorthen,sodoIthinkhimatraitornow。ButIhadalsoblamedLincoln,orratherthegovernmentofwhichMr。Lincolninthismatterisnomorethantheexponent,forhiseffortstoavoidthatwhichisinevitable。InthisIthinkthatI——orasI
  believeImaysaywe,weEnglishmen——werewrong。IdonotseehowtheNorth,treatedasitwasandhadbeen,couldhavesubmittedtosecessionwithoutresistance。WeallrememberwhatShakspearesaysofthegreatarmieswhichwereledouttofightforapieceofgroundnotlargeenoughtocoverthebodiesofthosewhowouldbeslaininthebattle;butIdonotrememberthatShakspearesaysthatthebattlewasonthisaccountnecessarilyunreasonable。Itistheoldpointofhonorwhich,tillithadbeenmadeabsurdbycertainchangesofcircumstances,wasalwaysgrandandusuallybeneficent。Thesechangesofcircumstanceshavealteredthemannerinwhichappealmaybemade,buthavenotalteredthepointofhonor。HadtheSouthernStatessoughttoobtainsecessionbyconstitutionalmeans,theymightormightnothavebeensuccessful;
  butifsuccessful,therewouldhavebeennowar。IdonotmeantobrandalltheSouthernStateswithtreason,nordoIintendtosaythat,havingsecessionatheart,theycouldhaveobtaineditbyconstitutionalmeans。ButIdointendtosaythat,actingastheydid,demandingsecessionnotconstitutionally,butinoppositiontotheconstitution,takinguponthemselvestherightofbreakingupanationalityofwhichtheyformedonlyapart,anddoingthatwithoutconsentoftheotherpart,oppositionfromtheNorthandwarwasaninevitableconsequence。
  Itis,Ithink,onlynecessarytolookbacktotheRevolutionbywhichtheUnitedStatesseparatedthemselvesfromEnglandtoseethis。Thereishardlytobemet,hereandthere,anEnglishmanwhonowregretsthelossoftherevoltedAmericancolonies;whonowthinksthatcivilizationwasretardedandtheworldinjuredbythatrevolt;whonowconceivesthatEnglandshouldhaveexpendedmoretreasureandmorelivesinthehopeofretainingthosecolonies。
  Itisagreedthattherevoltwasagoodthing;thatthosewhowerethenrebelsbecamepatriotsbysuccess,andthattheydeservedwellofallcomingagesofmankind。ButnotthelessabsolutelynecessarywasitthatEnglandshouldendeavortoholdherown。Shewasasthemotherbirdwhentheyoungbirdwillflyalone。ShesufferedthosepangswhichNaturecallsuponmotherstoendure。
  AswasthenecessityofBritishoppositiontoAmericanindependence,sowasthenecessityofNorthernoppositiontoSouthernsecession。Idonotsaythatinotherrespectsthetwocaseswereparallel。TheStatesseparatedfromusbecausetheywouldnotenduretaxationwithoutrepresentation——inotherwords,becausetheywereoldenoughandbigenoughtogoalone。TheSouthissecedingfromtheNorthbecausethetwoarenothomogeneous。
  Theyhavedifferentinstincts,differentappetites,differentmorals,andadifferentculture。Itiswellforonemantosaythatslaveryhascausedtheseparation,andforanothertosaythatslaveryhasnotcausedit。Eachinsosayingspeaksthetruth。
  Slaveryhascausedit,seeingthatslaveryisthegreatpointonwhichthetwohaveagreedtodiffer。Butslaveryhasnotcausedit,seeingthatotherpointsofdifferencearetobefoundineverycircumstanceandfeatureofthetwopeople。TheNorthandtheSouthmusteverbedissimilar。IntheNorthlaborwillalwaysbehonorable,andbecausehonorable,successful。IntheSouthlaborhaseverbeenservile——atleastinsomesense——andthereforedishonorable;andbecausedishonorable,hasnot,toitself,beensuccessful。IntheSouth,Isay,laboreverhasbeendishonorable;
  andIamdriventoconfessthatIhavenothithertoseenasignofanychangeintheCreator'sfiatonthismatter。Thatlaborwillbehonorablealltheworldoverasyearsadvanceandthemillenniumdrawsnigh,Iforoneneverdoubt。
  SomuchforEnglishopinionaboutAmericainAugustlast。AndnowIwillventuretosayawordortwoastoAmericanfeelingrespectingthisEnglishopinionatthatperiod。Itwillofcourseberememberedbyallmyreadersthat,atthebeginningofthewar,LordRussell,whowastheninthelowerhouse,declared,asForeignSecretaryofState,thatEnglandwouldregardtheNorthandSouthasbelligerents,andwouldremainneutralastobothofthem。ThisdeclarationgaveviolentoffensetotheNorth,andhasbeentakenasindicatingBritishsympathywiththecauseoftheseceders。I
  amnotgoingtoexplain——indeed,itwouldbenecessarythatI
  shouldfirstunderstand——thelawsofnationswithregardtoblockadedports,privateering,shipsandmenandgoodscontrabandofwar,andallthosesemi-nautical,semi-militaryrulesandaxiomswhichitisnecessarythatallattorneys-generalandsuchlikeshould,atthepresentmoment,haveattheirfingers'end。Butitmustbeevidenttothemostignorantinthosematters,amongwhichlargecrowdIcertainlyincludemyself,thatitwasessentiallynecessarythatLordJohnRussellshouldatthattimedeclareopenlywhatEnglandintendedtodo。Itwasessentialthatourseamenshouldknowwheretheywouldbeprotectedandwherenot,andthatthecoursetobetakenbyEnglandshouldbedefined。ReticenceinthematterwasnotwithinthepoweroftheBritishgovernment。ItbehoovedtheForeignSecretaryofStatetodeclareopenlythatEnglandintendedtosideeitherwithonepartyorwiththeother,orelsetoremainneutralbetweenthem。
  IhadheardthismatterdiscussedbyAmericansbeforeIleftEngland,andIhaveofcoursehearditdiscussedveryfrequentlyinAmerica。TherecanbenodoubtthatthefrontoftheoffensegivenbyEnglandtotheNorthernStateswasthisdeclarationofLordJohnRussell's。ButithasbeenalwaysmadeevidenttomethatthesindidnotconsistinthefactofEngland'sneutrality——inthefactofherregardingthetwopartiesasbelligerents——butintheopendeclarationmadetotheworldbyaSecretaryofStatethatshedidintendsotoregardthem。Ifanotherproofwerewanting,thiswouldaffordanotherproofoftheimmenseweightattachedinAmericatoalltheproceedingsandtoallthefeelingsofEnglandonthismatter。TheveryangeroftheNorthisacomplimentpaidbytheNorthtoEngland。Butnotthelessisthatangerunreasonable。TothoseinAmericawhounderstandourconstitution,itmustbeevidentthatourgovernmentcannottakeofficialmeasureswithoutapublicavowalofsuchmeasures。Francecandoso。Russiacandoso。ThegovernmentoftheUnitedStatescandoso,andcoulddosoevenbeforethisrupture。ButthegovernmentofEnglandcannotdoso。AllmenconnectedwiththegovernmentinEnglandhavefeltthemselvesfromtimetotimemoreorlesshamperedbythenecessityofpublicity。Ourstatesmenhavebeenforcedtofighttheirbattleswiththeplanoftheirtacticsopenbeforetheiradversaries。ButweinEnglandareinclinedtobelievethatthegeneralresultisgood,andthatbattlessofoughtandsowonwillbefoughtwiththehonestestblowsandwonwiththesurestresults。Reticenceinthismatterwasnotpossible;andLordJohnRussell,inmakingtheopenavowalwhichgavesuchoffensetotheNorthernStates,onlydidthatwhich,asaservantofEngland,Englandrequiredhimtodo。
  “WhatwouldyouinEnglandhavethought,“agentlemanofmuchweightinBostonsaidtome,“if,whenyouwereintroubleinIndia,wehadopenlydeclaredthatweregardedyouropponentsthereareasbelligerentsonequaltermswithyourselves?“Iwasforcedtosaythat,asfarasIcouldsee,therewasnoanalogybetweenthetwocases。InIndiaanarmyhadmutinied,andthatanarmycomposedofasubdued,ifnotaservilerace。Theanalogywouldhavebeenfairerhaditreferredtoanysympathyshownbyustoinsurgentnegroes。But,nevertheless,hadthearmywhichmutiniedinIndiabeeninpossessionofportsandsea-board;hadtheyheldintheirhandsvastcommercialcitiesandgreatagriculturaldistricts;hadtheyownedshipsandbeenmastersofawide-spreadtrade,Americacouldhavedonenothingbettertowardusthanhaveremainedneutralinsuchaconflictandhaveregardedthepartiesasbelligerents。Theonlyquestioniswhethershewouldhavedonesowellbyus。“But,“saidmyfriend,inanswertoallthis,“weshouldnothaveproclaimedtotheworldthatweregardedyouandthemasstandingonanequalfooting。“Thereagainappearedthetruegistoftheoffense。AwordfromEnglandsuchasthatspokenbyLordJohnRussellwasofsuchweighttotheSouththattheNorthcouldnotenduretohaveitspoken。Ididnotsaytothatgentleman,buthereImaysaythat,hadsuchcircumstancesarisenasthoseconjectured,andhadAmericaspokensuchaword,Englandwouldnothavefeltherselfcalledupontoresentit。
  ButthefaireranalogyliesbetweenIrelandandtheSouthernStates。ThemonstermeetingsandO'Connell'striumphsarenotsolonggonebybutthatmanyofuscanrememberthefirstdemandforsecessionmadebyIreland,andthelinewhichwasthentakenbyAmericansympathies。ItisnottoomuchtosaythatAmericathenbelievedthatIrelandwouldsecuresecession,andthatthegreattrustoftheIrishrepealerswasinthemoralaidwhichshedidandwouldreceivefromAmerica。“ButourgovernmentproclaimednosympathywithIreland,“saidmyfriend。No。TheAmericangovernmentisnotcalledontomakesuchproclamations,norhadIrelandevertakenuponherselfthenatureandlaborsofabelligerent。
  ThatthisangeronthepartoftheNorthisunreasonable,Icannotdoubt。Thatitisunfortunate,grievous,andverybitter,Iamquitesure。ButIdonotthinkthatitisinanydegreesurprising。Iaminclinedtothinkthat,didIbelongtoBostonasIdobelongtoLondon,Ishouldshareinthefeeling,andraveasloudlyasallmentherehaveravedagainstthecoldnessofEngland。
  WhenmenhaveonhandsuchajobofworkastheNorthhasnowundertaken,theyarealwaysguidedbytheirfeelingsratherthantheirreason。Whattwomeneverhadaquarrelinwhicheachdidnotthinkthatalltheworld,ifjust,wouldespousehisownsideofthedispute?TheNorthfeelsthatithasbeenmorethanloyaltotheSouth,andthattheSouthhastakenadvantageofthatover-
  loyaltytobetraytheNorth。“Wehaveworkedforthem,andfoughtforthem,andpaidforthem,“saystheNorth。“Byourlaborwehaveraisedtheirindolencetoaparwithourenergy。Whilewehaveworkedlikemen,wehaveallowedthemtotalkandbluster。Wehavewarmedtheminourbosom,andnowtheyturnagainstusandstingus。Theworldseesthatthisisso。England,aboveall,mustseeit,and,seeingit,shouldspeakouthertrueopinion。“
  TheNorthishotwithsuchthoughtsasthese;andonecannotwonderthatsheshouldbeangrywithherfriendwhenherfriend,withanexpressionofcertaineasygoodwishes,bidsherfightoutherownbattles。TheNorthhasbeenunreasonablewithEngland;butI
  believethateveryreaderofthispagewouldhavebeenasunreasonablehadthatreaderbeenborninMassachusetts。
  Mr。andMrs。Jonesarethedearly-belovedfriendsofmyfamily。MywifeandIhavelivedwithMrs。Jonesontermsofintimacywhichhavebeenquiteendearing。Joneshashadtherunofmyhousewithperfectfreedom;andinMrs。Jones'sdrawing-roomIhavealwayshadmyownarm-chair,andhavebeenregaledwithlargebreakfast-cupsoftea,quiteasthoughIwereathome。ButofasuddenJonesandhiswifehavefallenout,andthereisforawhileinJonesHallacat-and-doglifethatmayend——inonehardlydaretosurmisewhatcalamity。Mrs。JonesbegsthatIwillinterferewithherhusband,andJonesentreatsthegoodofficesofmywifeinmoderatingthehottemperofhisown。Butweknowbetterthanthat。Ifweinterfere,thechancesarethatmydearfriendswillmakeitupandturnuponus。IgrievebeyondmeasureinageneralwayatthetemporarybreakupoftheJones-Hallhappiness。Iexpressgeneralwishesthatitmaybetemporary。Butasforsayingwhichisrightorwhichiswrong——astoexpressingspecialsympathyoneithersideinsuchaquarrel——itisoutofthequestion。“MydearJones,youmustexcuseme。Anynewsinthecityto-day?Sugarshavefallen;
  howareteas?“OfcourseJonesthinksthatI'mabrute;butwhatcanIdo?
  IhavebeensomewhatsurprisedtofindthetroublethathasbeentakenbyAmericanorators,statesmen,andlogicianstoprovethatthissecessiononthepartoftheSouthhasbeenrevolutionary——
  thatistosay,thatithasbeenundertakenandcarriedonnotincompliancewiththeConstitutionoftheUnitedStates,butindefianceofit。ThishasbeendoneoverandoveragainbysomeofthegreatestmenoftheNorth,andhasbeendonemostsuccessfully。
  Butwhatthen?Ofcoursethemovementhasbeenrevolutionaryandanti-constitutional。Nobody,nosingleSoutherner,canreallybelievethattheConstitutionoftheUnitedStatesasframedin1787,oralteredsince,intendedtogivetotheseparateStatesthepowerofsecedingastheypleased。Itissurelyuselessgoingthroughlongargumentstoprovethis,seeingthatitisabsolutelyprovedbytheabsenceofanyclausegivingsuchlicensetotheseparateStates。Suchlicensewouldhavebeendestructivetotheveryideaofagreatnationality。WherewouldNewEnglandhavebeen,asapartoftheUnitedStates,ifNewYork,whichstretchesfromtheAtlantictothebordersofCanada,hadbeenendowedwiththepowerofcuttingoffthesixNorthernStatesfromtherestoftheUnion?Noonewillforamomentdoubtthatthemovementwasrevolutionary,andyetinfinitepainsaretakentoproveafactthatispatenttoeveryone。
  Itisrevolutionary;butwhatthen?HavetheNorthernStatesoftheAmericanUniontakenuponthemselves,in1861,toproclaimtheiropinionthatrevolutionisasin?Aretheygoingbacktothedivinerightofanysovereignty?Aretheygoingtotelltheworldthatanationorapeopleisboundtoremaininanypoliticalstatusbecausethatstatusistherecognizedformofgovernmentunderwhichsuchapeoplehavelived?IsthistobethedoctrineofUnitedStatescitizens——ofallpeople?Andisthisthedoctrinepreachednow,ofalltimes,whentheKingofNaplesandtheItaliandukeshavejustbeendismissedfromtheirthroneswithsuchenchantingnonchalancebecausetheirpeoplehavenotchosentokeepthem?Ofcoursethemovementisrevolutionary;andwhynot?Itisagreednowamongallmenandallnationsthatanypeoplemaychangeitsformofgovernmenttoanyother,ifitwillstodoso——andifitcandoso。
  TherearetwootherpointsonwhichtheseNorthernstatesmenandlogiciansalsoinsist,andthesetwootherpointsareatanyratebetterworthanargumentthanthatwhichtouchesthequestionofrevolution。ItbeingsettledthatsecessiononthepartoftheSouthernersisrevolution,itisargued,firstly,thatnooccasionforrevolutionhadbeengivenbytheNorthtotheSouth;and,secondly,thattheSouthhasbeendishonestinitsrevolutionarytactics。Mencertainlyshouldnotraisearevolutionfornothing;
  anditmaycertainlybedeclaredthatwhatevermendotheyshoulddohonestly。
  Butinthatmatterofthecauseandgroundforrevolution,itissoveryeasyforeitherpartytoputinapleathatshallbesatisfactorytoitself!Mr。andMrs。Joneseachhadaseparatestory。Mr。Joneswassurethattherightlaywithhim;butMrs。
  Joneswasnolesssure。NodoubttheNorthhaddonemuchfortheSouth;hadearnedmoneyforit;hadfedit;andhad,moreover,inagreatmeasurefosteredallitsbadhabits。IthadnotonlybeengeneroustotheSouth,butover-indulgent。ButalsoithadcontinuallyirritatedtheSouthbymeddlingwiththatwhichtheSouthernersbelievedtobeaquestionabsolutelyprivatetothemselves。ThematterwasillustratedtomebyaNewHampshiremanwhowasconversantwithblackbears。AtthehotelsintheNewHampshiremountainsitiscustomarytofindblackbearschainedtopoles。Thesebearsarecaughtamongthehills,andarethusimprisonedfortheamusementofthehotelguests。“ThemSoutherners,“saidmyfriend,“arejistasoneasthat'erebear。
  Wefeedshimandgiveshimahouse,andhisbellyisollersfull。
  Butthen,jistbecasehe'sablackbear,we'reollersapokinghimwithsticks,anda'coursethebeastisakinderriled。Hewantstobebacktothemountains。Hewouldn'thavehisbellyfilled,buthe'dhavehisownway。It'sjistsowiththemSoutherners。“
  Itisofnouseprovingtoanymanortoanynationthattheyhavegotalltheyshouldwant,iftheyhavenotgotallthattheydowant。Ifaservantdesirestogo,itisofnoavailtoshowhimthathehasallhecandesireinhispresentplace。TheNorthernerssaythattheyhavegivennooffensetotheSoutherners,andthatthereforetheSouthiswrongtoraisearevolution。TheveryfactthattheNorthistheNorth,isanoffencetotheSouth。
  AslongasMr。andMrs。Joneswereoneinheartandoneinfeeling,havingthesamehopesandthesamejoys,itwaswellthattheyshouldremaintogether。Butwhenitisprovedthattheycannotsolivewithouttearingouteachother'seyes,SirCresswellCresswell,therevolutionaryinstitutionofdomesticlife,interferesandseparatesthem。Thisistheageofsuchseparations。IdonotwonderthattheNorthshoulduseitslogictoshowthatithasreceivedcauseofoffensebutgivennone;butI
  dothinkthatsuchlogicisthrownaway。Thematterisnotoneforargument。TheSouthhasthoughtthatitcandobetterwithouttheNorththanwithit;andifithasthepowertoseparateitself,itmustbeconcededthatithastheright。
  Andthenastothatquestionofhonesty。Whatevermendotheycertainlyshoulddohonestly。Speakingbroadly,onemaysaythattheruleappliestonationsasstronglyastoindividuals,andshouldbeobservedinpoliticsasaccuratelyasinothermatters。
  Wemust,however,confessthatmenwhoarescrupulousintheirprivatedealingsdotooconstantlydropthosescrupleswhentheyhandlepublicaffairs,andespeciallywhentheyhandlethematstirringmomentsofgreatnationalchanges。ThenameofNapoleonIII。standsfairnowbeforeEurope,andyethefilchedtheFrenchempirewithafalsehood。TheunionofEnglandandIrelandisasuccessfulfact,butneverthelessitcanhardlybesaidthatitwashonestlyachieved。IheartilybelievethatthewholeofTexasisimprovedineverysensebyhavingbeentakenfromMexicoandaddedtotheSouthernStates,butImuchdoubtwhetherthatannexationwasaccomplishedwithabsolutehonesty。WeallreverencethenameofCavour,butCavourdidnotconsenttoabandonNicetoFrancewithcleanhands。Whenmenhavepoliticalendstogaintheyregardtheiropponentsasadversaries,andthenthatoldruleofwarisbroughttobear,deceitorvalor——eithermaybeusedagainstafoe。
  Woulditwerenotso!Therascallyrule——rascallyinreferencetoallpoliticalcontests——isbecominglessuniversalthanitwas。
  Butitstillexistswithsufficientforcetobeurgedasanexcuse;
  andwhileitdoesexistitseemsalmostneedlesstoshowthatacertainamountoffraudhasbeenusedbyacertainpartyinarevolution。IftheSouthbeultimatelysuccessful,thefraudofwhichitmayhavebeenguiltywillbecondonedbytheworld。
  TheSouthernorDemocraticpartyoftheUnitedStateshad,asallmenknow,beeninpowerformanyyears。EitherSouthernPresidentshadbeenelected,orNorthernPresidentswithSouthernpolitics。
  TheSouthformanyyearshadhadthedispositionofmilitarymatters,andthepowerofdistributingmilitaryappliancesofalldescriptions。ItisnowallegedbytheNorththataconspiracyhadlongbeenhatchingintheSouthwiththeviewofgivingtotheSouthernStatesthepowerofsecessionwhenevertheymightthinkfittosecede;anditisfurtherallegedthatPresidentafterPresident,foryearsback,hasundulysentthemilitarytreasureofthenationawayfromtheNorthdowntotheSouth,inorderthattheSouthmightbepreparedwhenthedayshouldcome。ThataPresidentwithSoutherninstinctsshouldundulyfavortheSouth,thatheshouldstrengthentheSouth,andfeelthatarmsandammunitionwerestoredtherewithbettereffectthantheycouldbestoredintheNorth,isveryprobable。Weallunderstandwhatisthebiasofaman'smind,andhowstrongthatbiasmaybecomewhenthemanisnotespeciallyscrupulous。ButIdonotbelievethatanyPresidentprevioustoBuchanansentmilitarymaterialstotheSouthwiththeself-acknowledgedpurposeofusingthemagainsttheUnion。ThatBuchanandidso,orknowinglyallowedthistobedone,Idobelieve,andIthinkthatBuchananwasatraitortothecountrywhoseservanthewasandwhosepayhereceived。
  Andnow,havingsaidsomuchinthewayofintroduction,Iwillbeginmyjourney。
  CHAPTERII。
  NEWPORT——RHODEISLAND。
  We——theweconsistingofmywifeandmyself——leftLiverpoolforBostononthe24thAugust,1861,intheArabia,oneofCunard'sNorthAmericanmailpackets。Wehaddeterminedthatmywifeshouldreturnaloneatthebeginningofwinter,whenIintendedtogotoapartofthecountryinwhich,undertheexistingcircumstancesofthewar,aladymightnotfeelherselfaltogethercomfortable。I
  proposedstayinginAmericaoverthewinter,andreturninginthespring;andthisprogrammeIhavecarriedoutwithsufficientexactness。
  TheArabiatouchedatHalifax;andasthetouchextendedfrom11A。M。
  to6P。M。wehadanopportunityofseeingagooddealofthatcolony;notquitesufficienttojustifymeatthiscriticalageinwritingachapteroftravelsinNovaScotia,butenoughperhapstowarrantaparagraph。Itchancedthatacousinofminewasthenincommandofthetroopsthere,sothatwesawthefortwithallthehonors。Adinneronshorewas,Ithink,agreatertreattouseventhanthis。WealsoinspectedsundryspecimensofthegoldwhichisnowbeingfoundforthefirsttimeinNovaScotia,astothegloryandprobableprofitsofwhichtheNovaScotiansseemedtobefullyalive。Butstill,IthinkthedinneronshoretookrankwithusasthemostmemorableandmeritoriousofallthatwedidandsawatHalifax。Atseveno'clockonthemorningbutoneafterthatwewerelandedatBoston。
  AtBostonIfoundfriendsreadytoreceiveuswithopenarms,thoughtheywerefriendswehadneverknownbefore。IownthatI
  feltmyselfburdenedwithmuchnervousanxietyatmyfirstintroductiontomenandwomeninBoston。IknewwhatthefeelingtherewaswithreferencetoEngland,andIknewalsohowimpossibleitisforanEnglishmantoholdhistongueandsubmittodispraiseofEngland。Asforgoingamongapeoplewhosewholemindswerefilledwithaffairsofthewar,andsayingnothingaboutthewar,I
  knewthatnoresolutiontosuchaneffectcouldbecarriedout。Ifonecouldnottrustone'sselftospeak,oneshouldhavestayedathomeinEngland。IwillherestatethatIalwaysdidspeakoutopenlywhatIthoughtandfelt,andthatthoughIencounteredverystrong——sometimesalmostfierce——opposition,Ineverwassubjectedtoanythingthatwaspersonallydisagreeabletome。
  InSeptemberwedidnotstayaboveaweekinBoston,havingbeenfairlydrivenoutofitbythemusquitoes。IhadbeentoldthatI
  shouldfindnobodyinBostonwhomIcaredtosee,aseverybodywashabituallyoutoftownduringtheheatofthelattersummerandearlyautumn;butthiswasnotso。Thewarandattendantturmoilsofwarhadmadetheseasonofvacationshorterthanusual,andmostofthoseforwhomIaskedwerebackattheirposts。IknownoplaceatwhichanEnglishmanmaydropdownsuddenlyamongapleasantercircleofacquaintance,orfindhimselfwithamorecleversetofmen,thanhecandoatBoston。IconfessthatinthisrespectIthinkthatbutfewtownsareatpresentmorefortunatelycircumstancedthanthecapitaloftheBayState,asMassachusettsiscalled,andthatveryfewtownsmakeabetteruseoftheiradvantages。Bostonhasarighttobeproudofwhatithasdonefortheworldofletters。Itisproud;butIhavenotfoundthatitspridewascarriedtoofar。
  Bostonisnotinitselfafinecity,butitisaverypleasantcity。Theysaythattheharborisverygrandandverybeautiful。
  ItcertainlyisnotsofineasthatofPortland,inanauticalpointofview,andascertainlyitisnotasbeautiful。ItistheentrancefromtheseaintoBostonofwhichpeoplesaysomuch;butIdidnotthinkitquiteworthyofallIhadheard。Insuchmatters,however,muchdependsonthepeculiarlightinwhichsceneryisseen。Aneveninglightisgenerallythebestforalllandscapes;andIdidnotseetheentrancetoBostonharborbyaneveninglight。ItwasnotthebeautyoftheharborofwhichI
  thoughtthemost,butoftheteawhichhadbeensunkthere,andofallthatcameofthatsuccessfulspeculation。FewtownsnowstandinghavearighttobemoreproudoftheirantecedentsthanBoston。
  ButasIhavesaid,itisnotspeciallyinterestingtotheeye;
  whatnewtown,orevenwhatsimplyadulttown,canbeso?ThereisanAtheneum,andaStateHall,andafashionablestreet,——BeaconStreet,verylikePiccadillyasitrunsalongtheGreenPark,——andthereistheGreenParkoppositetothisPiccadilly,calledBostonCommon。BeaconStreetandBostonCommonareverypleasant。
  Excellenthousesthereare,andlargechurches,andenormoushotels;butofsuchthingsastheseamancanwritenothingthatisworththereading。ThetravelerwhodesirestotellhisexperienceofNorthAmericamustwriteofpeopleratherthanofthings。
  AsIhavesaid,IfoundmyselfinstantlyinvolvedindiscussionsonAmericanpoliticsandthebearingofEnglanduponthosepolitics。
  “Whatdoyouthink,youinEngland——whatdoyoubelievewillbetheupshotofthiswar?“Thatwasthequestionalwaysaskedinthoseorotherwords。“Secession,certainly,“Ialwayssaid,butnotspeakingquitewiththatabruptness。“Andyoubelieve,then,thattheSouthwillbeattheNorth?“IexplainedthatIpersonallyhadneversothought,andthatIdidnotbelievethattobethegeneralidea。Men'sopinionsinEngland,however,weretoodividedtoenablemetosaythattherewasanyprevailingconvictiononthematter。Myownimpressionwas,andis,thattheNorthwill,inamilitarypointofview,havethebestofthecontest——willbeattheSouth;butthattheNorthernerswillnotpreventsecession,lettheirsuccessbewhatitmay。ShouldtheNorthprevailafteratwoyears'conflict,theNorthwillnotadmittheSouthtoanequalparticipationofgoodthingswiththemselves,eventhougheachseparaterebelliousStateshouldreturnsuppliant,likeaprodigalson,kneelingonthefloorofCongress,eachwithaseparateropeofhumiliationrounditsneck。Suchwasmyideaasexpressedthen,andIdonotknowthatIhavesincehadmuchcausetochangeit。
  “Wewillnevergiveitup,“onegentlemansaidtome——and,indeed,manyhavesaidthesame——“tillthewholeterritoryisagainunitedfromtheBaytotheGulf。Itisimpossiblethatweshouldallowoftwonationalitieswithinthoselimits。““Anddoyouthinkitpossible,“Iasked,“thatyoushouldreceivebackintoyourbosomthispeoplewhichyounowhatewithsodeepahatred,andreceivethemagainintoyourarmsasbrothersonequalterms?Isitinaccordancewithexperiencethataconqueredpeopleshouldbesotreated,andthat,too,apeoplewhoseeveryhabitoflifeisatvariancewiththehabitsoftheirpresumedconquerors?Whenyouhavefloggedthemintoareturnoffraternalaffection,aretheytokeeptheirslavesoraretheytoabolishthem?““No,“saidmyfriend,“itmaynotbepracticabletoputthoserebelliousStatesatonceonanequalitywithourselves。ForatimetheywillprobablybetreatedastheTerritoriesarenowtreated。“TheTerritoriesarevastoutlyingdistrictsbelongingtotheUnion,butnotasyetendowedwithStategovernmentsoraparticipationintheUnitedStatesCongress。“Foratimetheymust,perhaps,losetheirfullprivileges;buttheUnionwillbeanxioustoreadmitthemattheearliestpossibleperiod。““Andastotheslaves?“I
  askedagain。“LetthememigratetoLiberia——backtotheirowncountry。“IcouldnotsaythatIthoughtmuchofthesolutionofthedifficulty。Itwould,Isuggested,overtaskeventheenergyofAmericatosendoutanemigrationoffourmillionsouls,toprovidefortheirwantsinanewanduncultivatedcountry,andtoprovide,afterthat,fortheterriblegapmadeinthelabormarketoftheSouthernStates。“TheIsraeliteswentbackfrombondage,“saidmyfriend。Butawaywasopenedforthembyamiracleacrossthesea,andfoodwassenttothemfromheaven,andtheyhadamongthemaMosesforaleader,andaJoshuatofighttheirbattles。Icouldnotbutexpressmyfearthatthedaysofsuchimmigrationswereover。ThisplanofsendingbackthenegroestoAfricadidnotreachmeonlyfromoneorfromtwomouths,anditwassuggestedbymenwhoseopinionsrespectingtheircountryhaveweightathomeandareentitledtoweightabroad。Imentionthismerelytoshowhowinsurmountablewouldbethedifficultyofpreventingsecession,letwhichsidewinthatmay。
  “WewillneverabandontherighttothemouthoftheMississippi。“
  That,inallsucharguments,isastrongpointwithmenoftheNorthernStates——perhapsthepointtowhichtheyallreturnwiththegreatestfirmness。ItisthatonwhichMr。EverettinsistsinthelastparagraphoftheorationwhichhemadeinNewYorkonthe4thofJuly,1861。“TheMissouriandtheMississippiRivers,“hesays,“withtheirhundredtributaries,givetothegreatcentralbasinofourcontinentitscharacteranddestiny。TheoutletofthissystemliesbetweentheStatesofTennesseeandMissouri,ofMississippiandArkansas,andthroughtheStateofLouisiana。Theancientprovincesocalled,theproudestmonumentofthemightymonarchwhosenameitbears,passedfromthejurisdictionofFrancetothatofSpainin1763。Spaincovetedit——notthatshemightfillitwithprosperouscoloniesandrisingStates,butthatitmightstretchasabroadwastebarrier,infestedwithwarliketribes,betweentheAnglo-AmericanpowerandthesilverminesofMexico。WiththeindependenceoftheUnitedStatesthefearofastillmoredangerousneighborgrewuponSpain;and,intheinsaneexpectationofcheckingtheprogressoftheUnionwestward,shethreatened,andattimesattempted,toclosethemouthoftheMississippiontherapidly-increasingtradeoftheWest。ThebaresuggestionofsuchapolicyrousedthepopulationuponthebanksoftheOhio,theninconsiderable,asoneman。TheirconfidenceinWashingtonscarcelyrestrainedthemfromrushingtotheseizureofNewOrleans,whenthetreatyofSanLorenzoElReal,in1795,stipulatedforthemaprecariousrightofnavigatingthenoblerivertothesea,witharightofdepositatNewOrleans。Thissubjectwasforyearstheturning-pointofthepoliticsoftheWest;anditwasperfectlywellunderstoodthat,soonerorlater,shewouldbecontentwithnothinglessthanthesovereigncontrolofthemightystreamfromitshead-springtoitsoutletintheGulf。ANDTHATISASTRUENOWASITWASTHEN。“
  Thisiswellput。Itdescribeswithforcethedesires,ambition,andnecessitiesofagreatnation,andittellswithhistoricaltruththestoryofthesuccessofthatnation。ItwasagreatthingdonewhenthepurchaseofthewholeofLouisianawascompletedbytheUnitedStates——thatcessionbyFrance,however,havingbeenmadeattheinstanceofNapoleon,andnotinconsequenceofanydemandmadebytheStates。ThedistrictthencalledLouisianaincludedthepresentStateofthatnameandtheStatesofMissouriandArkansas——includedalsotherighttopossess,ifnottheabsolutepossessionofallthatenormousexpanseofcountryrunningfromthencebacktothePacific:ahugeamountofterritory,ofwhichthemostfertileportioniswateredbytheMississippianditsvasttributaries。ThatriverandthosetributariesarenavigablethroughthewholecenteroftheAmericancontinentuptoWisconsinandMinnesota。TotheUnitedStatesthenavigationoftheMississippiwas,wemaysay,indispensable;andtotheStates,whennolongerunited,thenavigationwillbeequallyindispensable。ButthedaysaregonewhenanycountrysuchasSpainwascaninterferetostopthehighwaysoftheworldwiththeallbutavowedintentionofarrestingtheprogressofcivilization。ItmaybethattheNorthandtheSouthcanneveragainbefriendsasthecomponentpartsofonenation。Such,I
  takeit,isthebeliefofallpoliticiansinEurope,andofmanyofthosewholiveacrossthewater。Butasseparatenationstheymayyetlivetogetherinamity,andsharebetweenthemthegreatwater-
  wayswhichGodhasgiventhemfortheirenrichment。TheRhineisfreetoPrussiaandtoHolland。TheDanubeisnotclosedagainstAustria。ItwillbesaidthattheDanubehasinfactbeenclosedagainstAustria,inspiteoftreatiestothecontrary。Butthefaultsofbadandweakgovernmentsaremadeknownascautionstotheworld,andnotasfactstocopy。Thefreeuseofthewatersofacommonriverbetweentwonationsisanaffairfortreaty;andithasnotyetcometothatthattreatiesmustnecessarilybenullandvoidthroughthefalsenessofpoliticians。
  “AndwhatwillEnglanddoforcotton?IsitnotthefactthatLordJohnRussell,withhisprofessedneutrality,intendstoexpresssympathywiththeSouth——intendstopavethewayfortheadventofSoutherncotton?““Yououghttoloveus,“sosaymeninBoston,“becausewehavebeenwithyouinheartandspiritforlong,longyears。Butyourtradehaseatenintoyoursouls,andyouloveAmericancottonbetterthanAmericanloyaltyandAmericanfellowship。“ThisIfoundtobeunfair,andinwhatpolitestlanguageIcoulduseIsaidso。IhadnotanyspecialknowledgeofthemindsofEnglishstatesmenonthismatter;butIknewaswellasAmericanscoulddowhatourstatesmenhadsaidanddonerespectingit。Thatcotton,ifitcamefromtheSouth,wouldbemadeverywelcomeinLiverpool,ofcourseIknew。Ifprivateenterprisecouldbringit,itmightbebrought。ButtheverydeclarationmadebyLordJohnRussellwasthesurestpledgethatEngland,asanation,wouldnotinterfereeventosupplyherownwants。Itmayeasilybeimaginedwhateagerwordsallthiswouldbringabout;butIneverfoundthateagerwordsledtofeelingswhichwerepersonallyhostile。
  AlltheworldhasheardofNewport,inRhodeIsland,asbeingtheBrighton,andTenby,andScarboroughofNewEngland。AndthegloryofNewportisbynomeansconfinedtoNewEngland,butissharedbyNewYorkandWashington,andinordinaryyearsbytheextremeSouth。ItisthehabitofAmericanstogotosomewatering-placeeverysummer——thatis,tosomeplaceeitherofseawaterorofinlandwaters。ThisisdonemuchinEngland,moreinIrelandthaninEngland,butIthinkmoreintheStatesthaneveninIreland。
  Butofallsuchsummerhaunts,Newportissupposedtobeinmanywaysthemostcaptivating。Inthefirstplace,itiscertainlythemostfashionable,and,inthenextplace,itissaidtobethemostbeautiful。WedecidedongoingtoNewport——ledthitherbythelatterreputationratherthantheformer。AswewerestillintheearlypartofSeptember,weexpectedtofindtheplacefull,butinthisweweredisappointed——disappointed,Isay,ratherthangratified,althoughacrowdedhouseatsuchaplaceiscertainlyanuisance。Butahousewhichispreparedtomakeupsixhundredbeds,andwhichiscalledontomakeuponlytwenty-five,becomes,afterawhile,somewhatmelancholy。Thenaturaldepressionofthelandlordcommunicatesitselftohisservants,andfromtheservantsitdescendstothetwenty-fiveguests,whowanderaboutthelongpassagesanddesertedbalconiesliketheghostsofthoseofthesummervisitors,whocannotrestquietlyintheirgravesathome。
  InEnglandweknownothingofhotelspreparedforsixhundredvisitors,allofwhomareexpectedtoliveincommon。Domesticarchitectswouldbefrightenedatthedimensionswhichareneeded,andatthenumberofapartmentswhicharerequiredtobeclusteredunderoneroof。WewenttotheOceanHotelatNewport,andfancied,aswefirstenteredthehallunderaverandaashighasthehouse,andmadeourwayintothepassage,thatwehadbeentakentoawell-arrangedbarrack。“Haveyourooms?“Iasked,asamanalwaysdoesaskonfirstreachinghisinn。“Roomsenough,“theclerksaid;“wehaveonlyfiftyhere。“Butthatfiftydwindleddowntotwenty-fiveduringthenextdayortwo。
  wewereamelancholyset,theladiesappearingtobeafflictedinthiswayworsethanthegentlemen,onaccountoftheirenforcedabstinencefromtobacco。Whatcantwelveladiesdoscatteredaboutadrawing-room,socalled,intendedfortheaccommodationoftwohundred?Thedrawing-roomattheOceanHotel,Newport,isnotasbigasWestminsterHall,butwould,Ishouldthink,makeaverygoodHouseofCommonsfortheBritishnation。Fancythefeelingsofaladywhenshewalksintosucharoom,intendingtospendhereveningthere,andfindssixorsevenotherladieslocatedonvarioussofasatterribledistances,allstrangerstoher。ShehascometoNewportprobablytoenjoyherself;andas,inaccordancewiththecustomsoftheplace,shehasdinedattwo,shehasnothingbeforeherfortheeveningbutthesocietyofthathuge,furnishedcavern。Herhusband,ifshehaveone,orherfather,orherlover,hasprobablyenteredtheroomwithher。Butamanhasneverthecouragetoenduresuchapositionlong。Hesidlesoutwithsomemutteredexcuse,andseekssolacewithacigar。Thelady,afterhalfanhourofcontemplation,creepssilentlynearsomecompanioninthedesert,andsuggestsinawhisperthatNewportdoesnotseemtobeveryfullatpresent。
  Westayedthereforaweek,andwereverymelancholy;butinourmelancholywestilltalkedofthewar。Americansaresaidtobegiventobragging,anditisasinofwhichIcannotaltogetheracquitthem。ButIhaveconstantlybeensurprisedathearingtheNorthernmenspeakoftheirownmilitaryachievementswithanythingbutself-praise。“We'vebeenwhipped,sir;andweshallbewhippedagainbeforewe'vedone;uncommonwellwhippedweshallbe。““Webegancowardly,andwereafraidtosendourownregimentsthroughoneofourowncities。“ThisalludedtoademandthathadbeenmadeontheGovernmentthattroopsgoingtoWashingtonshouldnotbesentthroughBaltimore,becauseofthestrongfeelingforrebellionwhichwasknowntoexistinthatcity。PresidentLincolncompliedwiththisrequest,thinkingitwelltoavoidacollisionbetweenthemobandthesoldiers。“Webegancowardly,andnowwe'regoingoncowardly,anddarn'tattackthem。Well;whenwe'vebeenwhippedoftenenough,thenweshalllearnthetrade。“Nowallthis——andIheardmuchofsuchanature——couldnotbecalledboasting。Butyetwithitalltherewasasubstratumofconfidence。IhaveheardNortherngentlemencomplainingofthePresident,complainingofallhisministers,oneafteranother,complainingofthecontractorswhowererobbingthearmy,ofthecommanderswhodidnotknowhowtocommandthearmy,andofthearmyitself,whichdidnotknowhowtoobey;butIdonotrememberthatIhavediscussedthematterwithanyNorthernerwhowouldadmitadoubtastoultimatesuccess。
  WewerecertainlyrathermelancholyatNewport,andtheemptyhousemayperhapshavegivenitstonetothediscussionsonthewar。I
  confessthatIcouldnotstandthedrawing-room——theladies'
  drawing-room,assuchlikeroomsarealwayscalledatthehotels——
  andthatIbaselydesertedmywife。Icouldnotstanditeitherhereorelsewhere,anditseemedtomethatotherhusbands——ay,andevenlovers——wereashardpressedasmyself。Iprotestthatthereisnospotontheearth'ssurfacesodeartomeasmyowndrawing-
  room,orrathermywife'sdrawing-room,athome;thatIamnotamangivenhugelytoclubs,butoneratherrejoicingintherustleofpetticoats。Iliketohavewomeninthesameroomwithme。ButatthesehotelsIfoundmyselfdrivenaway——propelledasitwerebysomeunknownforce——toabsentmyselffromthefemininehaunts。
  Anythingwasmorepalatablethanthem,even“liquoringup“atanastybar,orsmokinginacomfortlessreading-roomamongadelugeofAmericannewspapers。AndIprotestalso——hopingasIdosothatImaysaymuchinthisbooktoprovethetruthofsuchprotestation——thatthiscomesfromnofaultoftheAmericanwomen。
  Theyareaslovelyasourownwomen。Takengenerally,theyarebetterinstructed,thoughperhapsnotbettereducated。Theyareseldomtroubledwithmauvaisehonte;Idonotsayitinirony,butbeggingthatthewordsmaybetakenattheirpropermeaning。Theycanalwaystalk,andveryoftencantalkwell。Butwhenassembledtogetherinthesevast,cavernous,would-beluxurious,butintruthhorriblycomfortlesshoteldrawing-rooms,theyareunapproachable。
  Ihaveseenlovers,whomIhaveknowntobelovers,unabletoremainfiveminutesinthesamecavernwiththeirbelovedones。
  Andthenthemusic!Thereisalwaysapianoinahoteldrawing-
  room,onwhich,ofcourse,someoneoftheforlornladiesisgenerallyemployed。Idonotsupposethatthesepianosareinfact,asarule,louderandharsher,moreviolentandlessmusical,thanotherinstrumentsofthekind。Theyseemtobeso,butthat,Itakeit,arisesfromtheexceptionalmentaldepressionofthosewhohavetolistentothem。Thentheladies,orprobablysomeonelady,willsing,andasshehearsherownvoiceringandechothroughtheloftycornersandroundtheemptywalls,sheissurprisedatherownforce,andwithincreasedeffortssingslouderandstilllouder。Sheistemptedtofancythatsheissuddenlygiftedwithsomepowerofvocalmelodyunknowntoherbefore,and,filledwiththegloryofherownperformance,shoutstillthewholehouserings。Atsuchmomentssheatleastishappy,ifnooneelseisso。Lookingatthegeneralsadnessofherposition,whocangrudgehersuchhappiness?
  Andthenthechildren——babies,IshouldsayifIwerespeakingofEnglishbairnsoftheirage;butseeingthattheyareAmericans,I
  hardlydaretocallthemchildren。Theactualageoftheseperfectly-civilizedandhighly-educatedbeingsmaybefromthreetofour。Onewilloftenseefiveorsixsuchseatedatthelongdinner-tableofthehotel,breakfastinganddiningwiththeirelders,andgoingthroughtheceremonywithallthegravity,andmorethanallthedecorum,oftheirgrandfathers。WhenIwasthreeyearsoldIhadnotyet,asIimagine,beenpromotedbeyondasilverspoonofmyownwherewithtoeatmybreadandmilkinthenursery;andIfeelassuredthatIwasundertheimmediatecareofanursemaid,asIgobbledupmymincedmuttonmixedwithpotatoesandgravy。ButathotellifeintheStatestheadultinfantlispstothewaiterforeverythingattable,handleshisfishwithepicureandelicacy,ischoiceinhisselectionofpickles,veryparticularthathisbeef-steakatbreakfastshallbehot,andisinstantinhisdemandforfreshiceinhiswater。Butperhapshis,orinthiscaseher,retreatfromtheroomwhenthemealisover,isthechef-d'oeuvreofthewholeperformance。Thelittle,precocious,full-blownbeautyoffoursignifiesthatshehascompletedhermeal——oris“through“herdinner,asshewouldexpressit——bycarefullyextricatingherselffromthenapkinwhichhasbeentuckedaroundher。Thenthewaiter,everattentivetohermovements,drawsbackthechaironwhichsheisseated,andtheyoungladyglidestothefloor。AlittlegirlinOldEnglandwouldscrambledown,butlittlegirlsinNewEnglandneverscramble。Herfatherandmother,whoarenomorethanherchiefministers,walkbeforeheroutofthesaloon,andthenshe——swimsafterthem。Butswimmingisnottheproperword。Fishes,inmakingtheirwaythroughthewater,assist,orratherimpede,theirmotionwithnodorsalwriggle。NoanimaltaughttomovedirectlybyitsCreatoradoptsagaitsouseless,andatthesametimesograceless。Manywomen,havingreceivedtheirlessonsinwalkingfromalesseligibleinstructor,domoveinthisway,andsuchwomenthisunfortunatelittleladyhasbeeninstructedtocopy。ThepeculiarsteptowhichIalludeistobeseenoftenontheboulevardsinParis。Itistobeseenmoreofteninsecond-rateFrenchtowns,andamongfourth-rateFrenchwomen。Ofallsignsinwomenbetokeningvulgarity,badtaste,andaptitudetobadmorals,itisthesurest。AndthisisthegaitofgoingwhichAmericanmothers——
  someAmericanmothersIshouldsay——lovetoteachtheirdaughters!
  Asacomedyatahotelitisverydelightful,butinprivatelifeI
  shouldobjecttoit。
  TomeNewportcouldneverbeaplacecharmingbyreasonofitsowncharms。Thatitisaverypleasantplacewhenitisfullofpeopleandthepeopleareinspiritsandhappy,Idonotdoubt。Butthenthevisitorswouldbring,asfarasIamconcerned,thepleasantnesswiththem。Thecoastisnotfine。TothosewhoknowthebestportionsofthecoastofWalesorCornwall——orbetterstill,thewesterncoastofIreland,ofClareandKerryforinstance——itwouldnotbeinanywayremarkable。ItisbynomeansequaltoDieppeorBiarritz,andnottobetalkedofinthesamebreathwithSpezzia。Thehotels,too,areallbuiltawayfromthesea;sothatonecannotsitandwatchtheplayofthewavesfromone'swindows。Noraretherepleasantramblingpathsdownamongtherocks,andfromoneshortstrandtoanother。Thereisexcellentbathingforthosewholikebathingonshelvingsand。I
  don't。Thespotisabouthalfamilefromthehotels,andtothisthebathersarecarriedinomnibuses。Tilloneo'clockladiesbathe,whichoperation,however,doesnotatallmilitateagainstthebathingofmen,butrathernecessitatesitasregardsthosemenwhohaveladieswiththem。Forhereladiesandgentlemenbatheindecorousdresses,andareverypolitetoeachother。ImustsaythatIthinktheladieshavethebestofit。Myideaofseabathing,formyowngratification,isnotcompatiblewithafullsuitofclothing。Iownthatmytastesarevulgar,andperhapsindecent;butIlovetojumpintothedeep,clearseafromoffarock,andIlovetobehamperedbynooutwardimpedimentsasIdoso。Forordinarybathers,forallladies,andformenlesssavageintheirinstinctsthanIam,thebathingatNewportisverygood。
  Theprivatehouses——villaresidencesastheywouldbetermedbyanauctioneerinEngland——areexcellent。Manyofthemare,infact,largemansions,andaresurroundedwithgroundswhich,astheshrubsgrowup,willbeverybeautiful。Somehavelarge,well-keptlawns,stretchingdowntotherocks,andthese,tomytaste,givethecharmtoNewport。Theyextendabouttwomilesalongthecoast。
  ShouldmylothavemademeacitizenoftheUnitedStates,Ishouldhavehadnoobjectiontobecomethepossessorofoneofthese“villaresidences;“butIdonotthinkthatIshouldhave“gonein“
  forhotellifeatNewport。
  Wehiredsaddle-horses,androdeoutnearlythelengthoftheisland。Itwasallverywell,buttherewaslittleinitremarkableeitherasregardscultivationorscenery。Wefoundnothingthatitwouldbepossibleeithertodescribeorremember。
  TheAmericansoftheUnitedStateshavehadtimetobuildandpopulatevastcities,buttheyhavenotyethadtimetosurroundthemselveswithprettyscenery。Outlyinggrandsceneryisgivenbynature;buttheprettinessofhomesceneryisaworkofart。Itcomesfromthethoroughdrainingofland,fromtheplantingandsubsequentthinningoftrees,fromthecontrollingofwaters,andconstantuseofminutepatchesofbrokenland。Inanotherhundredyearsorso,RhodeIslandmaybe,perhaps,asprettyastheIsleofWight。Thehorseswhichwegotwerenotgood。Theywereunhandyandbadlymouthed,andthatwhichmywiferodewasaltogetherignorantoftheartofwalking。WehiredthemfromanEnglishmanwhohadestablishedhimselfatNewYorkasariding-masterforladies,andwhohadcometoNewportfortheseasononthesamebusiness。Hecomplainedtomewithmuchbitternessofthesaddle-
  horseswhichcameinhisway——ofcoursethinkingthatitwasthespecialbusinessofacountrytoproducesaddle-horses,asIthinkitthespecialbusinessofacountrytoproducepens,ink,andpaperofgoodquality。Accordingtohim,ridinghasnotyetbecomeanAmericanart,andhencetheawkwardnessofAmericanhorses。
  “Lordblessyou,sir!theydon'tgiveananimalachanceofamouth。“Inthishealludedonly,Ipresume,tosaddle-horses。I
  knownothingofthetrottinghorses,butIshouldimaginethatafinemouthmustbeanessentialrequisiteforatrottingmatchinharness。AsregardsridingatNewport,wewerenottemptedtorepeattheexperiment。Thenumberofcarriageswhichwesawthere——
  rememberingasIdidthattheplacewascomparativelyempty——andtheirgeneralsmartness,surprisedmeverymuch。Itseemedthateverylady,withahouseofherown,hadalsoherowncarriage。
  Thesecarriageswerealwaysopen,andthelawofthelandimperativelydemandsthattheoccupantsshallcovertheirkneeswithaworkedworstedapronofbrilliantcolors。TheseapronsatfirstIconfessseemedtawdry;buttheeyesoonbecomesusedtobrightcolors,incarriageapronsaswellasinarchitecture,andI
  soonlearnedtolikethem。
  RhodeIsland,astheStateisusuallycalled,isthesmallestStateintheUnion。ImayperhapsbestshowitsdisparitytootherStatesbysayingthatNewYorkextendsabouttwohundredandfiftymilesfromnorthtosouth,andthesamedistancefromeasttowest;
  whereastheStatecalledRhodeIslandisaboutfortymileslongbytwentybroad,independentlyofcertainsmallislands。Itwould,infact,notformaconsiderableadditionifaddedontomanyoftheotherStates。Nevertheless,ithasallthesamepowersofself-
  governmentasarepossessedbysuchnationalitiesastheStatesofNewYorkandPennsylvania,andsendstwoSenatorstotheSenateatWashington,asdothoseenormousStates。SmallastheStateis,RhodeIslanditselfformsbutasmallportionofit。TheauthorizedandpropernameoftheStateisProvidencePlantationandRhodeIsland。RogerWilliamswasthefirstfounderofthecolony,andheestablishedhimselfonthemainlandataspotwhichhecalledProvidence。HerenowstandstheCityofProvidence,thechieftownoftheState;andathriving,comfortabletownitseemstobe,fullofbanks,fedbyrailwaysandsteamers,andgoingaheadquiteasquicklyasRogerWilliamscouldinhisfondesthopeshavedesired。
  RhodeIsland,asIhavesaid,hasalltheattributesofgovernmentincommonwithherstouterandmorefamoussisters。Shehasagovernor,andanupperhouseandalowerhouseoflegislature;andsheissomewhatfantasticintheuseoftheseconstitutionalpowers,forshecallsonthemtositnowinonetownandnowinanother。ProvidenceisthecapitaloftheState;buttheRhodeIslandparliamentsitssometimesatProvidenceandsometimesatNewport。AtstatedtimesalsoithastocollectitselfatBristol,andatotherstatedtimesatKingston,andatothersatEastGreenwich。Ofalllegislativeassembliesitisthemostperipatetic。UniversalsuffragedoesnotabsolutelyprevailinthisState,acertainpropertyqualificationbeingnecessarytoconferarighttovoteevenfortheStaterepresentatives。I
  shouldthinkitwouldbewellforallpartiesifthewholeStatecouldbeswallowedupbyMassachusettsorbyConnecticut,eitherofwhichlieconvenientlyforthefeat;butIpresumethatanysuggestionofsuchanaturewouldberegardedastreasonbythemenofProvidencePlantation。
  WereturnedbacktoBostonbyAttleborough,atownatwhich,inordinarytimes,thewholepopulationissupportedbythejewelers'
  trade。Itisaplacewithaspecialty,uponwhichspecialtyithasthrivenwellandbecomeatown。Butthespecialtyisoneilladaptedfortimesofwarandwewereassuredthatthetradewasforthepresentatanend。Whatmancouldnow-a-daysbuyjewels,orevenwhatwoman,seeingthateverythingwouldberequiredforthewar?Idonotsaythatsuchabstinencefromluxuryhasbeenbegottenaltogetherbyafeelingofpatriotism。ThedirecttaxeswhichallAmericanswillnowbecalledontopay,havehadandwillhavemuchtodowithsuchabstinence。InthemeantimethepoorjewelersofAttleboroughhavegonealtogethertothewall。