ThemostinterestingfeatureofthisstayinMoscowwasmyintercoursewithTolstoi，andtothisIhavedevotedaseparatechapter。[14]
[14]SeeChapterXXXVII。
Onemoreexperiencemaybenoted。IncomingandgoingontheMoscowrailwayIfound，asinotherpartsofEurope，thatgovernmentalcontrolofrailwaysdoesnotatallmeanbetteraccommodationsorlowerfaresthanwhensuchworksareunderindividualcontrol。Thepricesfortravel，aswellasforsleeping—berths，weremuchhigherontheselines，ownedbythegovernment，thanonanyofourmaintrunk—linesinAmerica，whicharecontrolledbyprivatecorporations，andtheaccommodationswereneverofahighorder，andsometimesintolerable。
DuringthisstayinRussiamysympathieswereenlistedforFinland;butonthissubjectIhavespokenfullyelsewhere。[15]
[15]SeeChapterXXXIV。
HavingresignedmypositionatSt。PetersburginOctoberof1894，thefirstuseImadeofmylibertywastogowithmyfamilytoItalyforthewinter;andseveralmonthswerepassedatFlorence，whereIrevisedandfinishedthebookwhichhadbeenpreparingduringtwentyyears。ThencamearapidruntoRomeandthroughsouthernItaly，myoldhauntsatCastellammare，Sorrento，andAmalfibeingrevisited，andsundrynewexcursionsmade。AmongtheselastwasonetoPalermo，whereIvisitedtheChurchofSt。
Josaphat。ThisedificegreatlyinterestedmeasaChristianchurcherectedinhonorofaChristiansaintwhowasnoneotherthanBuddha。Themannerinwhichthefounderofthatgreatworld—religionwhichprecededourownwasconvertedintoaChristiansaintandsolemnlyproclaimedassuchbyalongseriesofpopes，fromSixtusVtoPiusIX，inclusive，byvirtueoftheirinfallibilityinallmattersrelatingtofaithandmorals，isoneofthemostcuriousandinstructivethingsinallhistory。[16]
[16]AfullaccountofthisconversionofBuddha（Bodisat）intoSt。Josaphatisgiven，withauthorities，etc。inmy"HistoryoftheWarfareofSciencewithTheology，"Vol。II，pp。381etseq。
AtfirstIhadsomedifficultyinfindingthischurch;but，finally，havingmadetheacquaintanceofaneminentscholar，theCommendatoreMarzo，canonoftheCappellaPalatinaanddirectoroftheNationalLibraryatPalermohekindlytookmetotheplace。Overtheentrancewerethewords，"DivoJosaphat";within，occupyingoneoftheplacesofhighesthonor，wasanaltartothesaint，andaboveitastatuerepresentinghimasayoungprincewearingacrownandholdingacrucifix。BypermissionoftheauthoritiesIwasallowedtosendaphotographer，whotookanegativeforme。AremarkoftheCommendatoreMarzouponthesubjectpleasedmemuch。When，oneday，aftershowingmethetreasuresofhisgreatlibrary，hewasdiningwithme，andI
pressedhimforparticularsregardingSt。Josaphat，heanswered，"HecannotbetheJehoshaphatoftheOldTestament，forheisrepresentedasaveryyoungman，andcontemplatingacrucifix:emoltomisterioso。"Itwas，afterall，notsoverymysterious;forintheselaterdays，nowthatthe"LifeofBarlaamandJosaphat，"
whichdatesfrommonksofthesixthorseventhcentury，hasbeencomparedwiththe"LifeofBuddha，"certainlywrittenbeforetheChristianera，theconstantcoincidenceindetails，andeveninphrases，putsitbeyondtheslightestdoubtthatSt。JosaphatandBuddhaareoneandthesameperson。
VerysuggestivetothoughtwasavisittothewonderfulcathedralofMonreale，abovePalermo;forhere，atthissouthernextremeofEurope，IfoundaconceptionoftheAlmightyasanenlargedhumanbeing，subjecttohumanweakness，identicalwiththatshowninthesculpturesuponthecathedralofUpsala，attheextremenorthofEurope。ThewholeinteriorofMonrealeCathedraliscoveredwithavastsheetofmosaicsdatingfromaboutthetwelfthcentury，andinoneseriesofthese，representingthecreation，theAlmightyisshownasworking，dayafterday，likeanartisan，andfinally，ontheseventhday，as"resting，"——seatedinalmosttheexactattitudeofthe"wearyMercury"ofclassicsculpture，withamarkedexpressionoffatigueuponhiscountenanceandinthewholedispositionofhisbody。[17]
[17]Ihavegivenamorefulldiscussionofthissubjectinmy"HistoryoftheWarfareofSciencewithTheology，"Vol。I，p。3。
Duringthisjourney，havingrevisitedOrvieto，Perugia，andAssisi，IreturnedtoFlorence，andagainenjoyedthesocietyofmyoldfriends，ProfessorWillardFiske，ProfessorVillari，withhisaccomplishedwife，andJudgeStallo，formerministeroftheUnitedStatesinRome。
Thegreateventofthisstaywasanearthquake。SeatedonapleasantAprileveninginmyroomsatthehousebuiltbyAdolphusTrollope，nearthePiazzadell’Independenza，Iheardwhatseemedatfirsttherisingofastorm;thentherushingofamightywind;then，asitgrewstronger，apparentlythegallopofacorpsofcavalryintheneighboringavenue;but，almostinstantly，itseemedtochangeintotheonrushofacorpsofartillery，and，amomentlater，tostrikethehouse，liftingitsfoundationsasifbysomemightyhand，andswayingittoandfro，everythingcreaking，groaning，rattling，andseeminglikelytofallinuponus。Thismovementtoandfro，withcrashingandscreaminginsideandoutsidethehouse，continued，asitseemedtome，abouttwentyminutes——asamatteroffact，itlastedhardlysevenseconds;butcertainlyitwasthelongestsevensecondsIhaveeverknown。AtthefirstupliftoftheseismicwavemywifeandI
rosefromourseats，Isaying，"Standperfectlystill。"
Thenceforward，notawordwasutteredbyeitherofusuntilallwasover;butmanythoughtscame，——thedominantfeelingbeingasenseofourhelplessnessinthepresenceofthegreatpowersofnature。Neitherofushadanyhopeofescapingalive;butwecalmlyacceptedtheinevitable，thinkingeachmomentwouldbe，thelast。AsIlookback，ourresignationandperfectquietstillsurpriseme。Thatroom，atthecorneroftheVillinoTrollope，whichanill—foundedlegendmakestheplacewhereGeorgeEliotwrote"Romola，"istomesacred，astheplacewherewetwopassed"fromdeathuntolife。"
Nearlyallthatnightweremainednearthedoorsofthehouse，readytoescapeanynewshocks;butonlyoneortwocame，andthoseverylight。Crowdsofthepopulationremainedoutofdoors，manydwellersinhotelstakingrefugeincarriagesandcabs，andstayinginthemthroughthenight。
NextmorningIwalkedforthtofindwhathadhappened，——firsttothecathedral，toseeifanythingwasleftofGiotto’stowerandBrunelleschi’sdome，and，tomygreatjoy，foundthemstanding;
but，asIenteredthevastbuilding，Isawoneoftheenormousironbarswhichtakethethrustofthewidearchesofthenavepulledapartandbrokenasifithadbeenpack—thread;therewerealsoafewcracksinoneofthepierssupportingthedome，butallelsewasasbefore。
AtthePalazzoStrozziacrowdofpeoplewereexaminingsundrycreviceswhichhadbeenmadeinitsmightywalls:andatvariousvillasintheneighborhood，especiallythoseontheroadtoSanMiniato，Ifoundthatthedamagehadbeenmuchworse。Apartofthetowerofonevilla，occupiedbyanEnglishladyofliterarydistinction，hadbeenthrowndown，crashingdirectlythroughoneoftheupperrooms，butcausingnolossoflife;thevillaofJudgeStallo，atthePortaRomana，wassowreckedthathewasobligedtoleaveit;andinthehouseofanotherfriendaheavyGermanstoveontheupperfloor，havingbeenthrownover，hadcomedownthroughtheceilingofthemainparlor，crashingthroughthegrandpiano，andthenceintothecellar，withoutinjurytoanyperson。OneoftheprofessorswhomIafterwardmettoldmethathewasgivingadinner—partywhen，suddenly，thehousewasliftedandshakentoandfro，thechandeliersswinging，brokenglasscrashing，andtheladiesscreaming，and，inamoment，aportionoftheouterwallgaveway，butfortunatelyfelloutward，sothattheguestsscrambledforthovertheruins，andpassedthenightinthegarden。PerhapstheworstdamagewaswroughtattheConventoftheCertosa，wheresomeofthebeautifuloldworkwasirreparablyinjured。
Itwasverydifficultnextmorningtogetanyrealinformationfromthenewspapers。Theyclaimedthatbutthreepersonslosttheirlivesinthecity:itwasclearlythoughtbesttominimizethedamagedone，lestthestreamoftravelmightbescaredaway。
IremarkedatthetimethatweshouldneverknowfullywhathadoccurreduntilwereceivedtheAmericanpapers;and，curiouslyenough，severalweeksafterwardaCalifornianshowedmeaveryfullandminuteaccountofthewholecalamity，withcarefuldetails，giveninthetelegraphicreportsofaSanFrancisconewspaperontheverymorningaftertheearthquake。
OnthewaytoAmericaIpassedashorttime，duringthemonthofJune，inLondon，meetingvariousinterestingpeople，amostpleasantoccasiontomebeingadinnergivenbyMr。Bayard，theAmericanminister，atwhichImetmyclassmateWayneMacVeagh，formerlyattorney—generaloftheUnitedStates，ministertoConstantinopleandambassadortoRome，full，asusual，ofinterestingreminiscenceandwittysuggestion。VeryinterestingalsotomewasatalkwithMr。HolmanHunt，theeminentpre—Raphaeliteartist。HetoldmemuchofTennysondwellinguponhismorbidfearthatpeoplewouldstareathim。HealsogaveanaccountofhismeetingwithRuskinatVenice，whenRuskintookHunttotaskfornothavingcometoseehimmorefrequentlyinLondon;towhichHuntrepliedthat，foronereason，hewasverybusy，andthat，foranother，hedidnotwishtobeclassedwiththetoadieswhoswarmedaboutRuskin。WhereuponRuskinsaidthatHuntwasrightregardingthecharacterofmostofthepeopleabouthim。Huntalsospokeoftheilltreatmentofhisbeautifulpicture，"TheLightoftheWorld。"Fromhim，orfromanothersourceaboutthattime，IlearnedthatformerlytheKebleCollegepeoplehadmademuchofit;butthat，someonehavinginterpretedtherayspassingthroughthedifferentopeningsofthelanterninChrist’shandastypifyingtruthshiningthroughdifferentreligiousconceptions，theownersofthepicturedistrustedit，andhadrecentlyrefusedtoallowitsexhibitioninLondon。
ItsurprisedmetofindHolmanHuntsoabsorbedinhisownartthatheapparentlyknewnexttonothingaboutthatofotherEuropeanmasters，——nothingofPuvisdeChavannesatParis;
nothingofMenzel，Knaus，andWerneratBerlin。
HavingreturnedtoAmerica，IwassoonsettledinmyoldhomesteadatCornell，——asIsupposedfortherestofmylife。
VerydelightfultomeduringthisaswellasothersojournsatCornellaftermypresidencyweresundryvisitstoAmericanuniversitiesatwhichIwasaskedtoreadpapersormakeaddresses。OftheseImaymentionHarvard，Yale，...完整阅读请扫描二维码下载丁香书院APP免费看：