Onmyaskingifhethoughthecouldbearthesevereruleofhisorder，especiallythatofrisingaboutfouro’clockinthemorningandretiringearlyintheevening，heansweredthatformerlyhefearedthathecouldnot，butthatnowhebelievedhecould。OnmytentativesuggestionthathecomeandestablishaBenedictineconventonCayugaLake，hetoldmethatheshouldprobablybesenttoScotland。
Therenownedoldmonasteryseemstobemindfulofitsbesttraditions，forithasestablishedwithinitswallsanadmirablyequippedprinting—house，inwhichIwasabletosecureforCornellUniversitycopiesofvariousbooksbylearnedBenedictines——someofthem，bythebeautyoftheirworkmanship，wellworthytobeplacedbesidetheilluminatedmanuscriptswhichformerlycamefromtheScriptoria。
AtRomeIwastakenaboutbyLanciani，theeminentarchaeologistincontroloftheexcavations，whoshowedmebeautifulthingsnewlydiscoveredandnowkeptintemporaryroomsneartheCapitol。Tomysurprise，hetoldmethatthereisabsolutelynoauthenticbustofCicerodatingfromhistime;butthiswasafterwarddeniedbyStory，theAmericansculptor，whopointedouttomeacastofoneinhisstudio。StoryspokegloomilyoftheconditionofItaly，sayingthatformerlytherewerenotaxes，butthatnowthetaxesarecrushing。HeaddedthatthegreatestmistakemadebythepresentPopewasthat，duringthecholeraatNaples，heremainedinRome，whileKingHumbertwentimmediatelytothatcity，visitedthehospitals，cheeredthecholera—stricken，comfortedthem，andsuppliedtheirwants。
OnEasterSundayIsawCardinalHowardcelebratehighmassinSt。
Peter’s。HehadbeenanEnglishguardsman，wasmagnificentlydressed，andwastheveryidealofaproudprelate。Theaudienceintheimmediateneighborhoodofthealtarwerenonetooreverential，andinotherpartsofthechurchwerewalkingaboutandtalkingasifinamarket;allofthisirreverenceremindingmeofthehighmasswhichIhadseencelebratedbyPopePiusIX
atthesamealtaronEasterdayof1856。
Callingontheformerprimeminister，Minghetti，whohadbeenanassociateofCavour，Ifoundhimveryinteresting，aswasalsoSambuy，senatorofthekingdomandsyndicofTurin，whowaswithhim。MinghettisaidthattheItalianschoolsystemwasnotyetsatisfactory，thoughyoungmenaredoingwellinadvancedscientific，mathematical，historical，andeconomicstudies。OnmyspeakingofastatisticalmapinmypossessionwhichrevealedtheenormouspercentageofpersonswhocanneitherreadnorwriteinthosepartsofItalymostdirectlyundertheinfluenceofthechurch，hesaidthatmatterswereslowlyimprovingunderthenewregime。HespokewithrespectofLeoXIII，sayingthathewasnotsobitterinhisutterancesagainstItalyasPiusIXhadbeen。
DiscussingBismarckandCavour，hesaidthatbothwereeminentlypractical，butthatCavouradheredtocertainprinciples，suchasfreetrade，freedomofthechurch，andthelike，whereasBismarckwaswonttotakeupanyprinciplewhichwouldservehistemporarypurpose。Minghettihopedmuch，eventually，fromCavour’sideaoftoleration，andspokewithpraiseofthechecksputbytheAmericanConstitutiononunbridleddemocracy，whereuponIquotedtohimtheremarkofGovernorSeymourinNewYork，themosteminentofrecentDemocraticcandidatesforthePresidency，totheeffectthatthemeritofourConstitutionisnotthatitpromotesdemocracy，butthatitchecksit。MinghettispokeofSirHenryMaine’sbookon"FreeGovernment"withmuchpraise;inspiteofitsanti—democratictendencies，ithadevidentlyraisedhisopinionoftheAmericanConstitution。HealsopraisedAmericanscientificprogress。SambuysaidthatthepresentgrowthofthecityofRomeisespeciallydetestedbytheclergy，sinceitismakingthecitytoolargeforthemtocontrol;thattheirbitternessisnottobewonderedat，sincetheyclearlyseethat，nomatterwhatmayhappen，——evenifthekingdomofItalyweretobedestroyedto—morrow，——itwouldbeabsolutelyimpossiblefortheoldregimeofPope，cardinals，andpriestseveragaintogovernthecity;thatwiththisincreaseofthepopulation，anditslongexerciseofpoliticalpower，theresumptionoftemporalpowerbythePopeisanutterimpossibility;thatevenifrevolutionoranarchycame，thepeoplewouldneveragaintakerefugeunderthepapacy。
VeryinterestingweresundrygatheringsattheroomsofStory，thesculptor。MeetingtheretheBrazilianministeratthepapalcourt，IwasamazedbyhisstatementsregardingtherulesrestrictingintercoursebetweendiplomatistsaccreditedtotheVaticanandthoseaccreditedtotheQuirinal;hesaidthatalthoughtheministerfromhiscountrytotheQuirinalwasoneofhisbestfriends，hewasnotallowedtoacceptaninvitationfromhim。
TheAmericanminister，JudgeStalloofCincinnati，seemedtomeanadmirableman，inspiteofthestoriescirculatedbyvarioushostilecliques。AtthehouseoftheBritishambassadorStallospokeinaveryinterestingwayofCardinalHohenloheasfarabovehisfellowsandcapableofmakingagreatpope。ThepoliticaldifficultiesinItaly，hesaid，wereverygreat，and，greatestofall，inNaplesandSicily。Diningwithhim，ImetmyoldfriendHoffmann，rectoroftheUniversityofBerlin，andanumberofeminentItalianmenofscience，senators，andothers。
AtthehouseofDr。Nevin，rectoroftheAmericanEpiscopalchurch，ImettheDutchminister，whocorroboratedmyopinionthattheBritishparliamentarysystemgenerallyworksbadlyintheContinentalcountries，sinceitcausesconstantlyrecurringchangesinministers，andpreventsanypropercontinuityofstateaction，andhenaturallyalludedtotheconditionofthingsinFranceasanexample。
Amongotherinterestingpeople，ImettheabbotofSt。PaulOutsidetheWalls，towhomLordActon，inresponsetomyquestionastowhethertherewassuchathingasa"learnedBenedictine"
extant，hadgivenmealetterofintroduction。ThegoodabbotturnedouttobeanIrishmanwithsomeofthemoreinterestingpeculiaritiesofhisrace;buthisconversationwasmorevividthanilluminating。HehadreviewedvariousbooksfortheCongregationoftheIndex，oneofthese，abookwhichIhadjustbought，beingon"TheArchitectureofSt。JohnLateran。"HeheldapositioninthePropaganda，andIwasgreatlystruckbyhisminuteknowledgeofaffairsintheUnitedStates。ThequestionbeingthenundecidedastowhetheranewbishopricforcentralNewYorkwastobeestablishedatUticaorSyracuse，hediscussedbothplaceswithmuchminuteknowledgeoftheirclaimsandofthepeopleresidinginthem。IputinthebestwordIcouldforSyracuse，feelingthatifabishopricwastobeestablished，thatwastheproperplaceforit;andafterwardIhadthesatisfactionoflearningthatthebishophadbeenplacedthere。TheabbothadknownSecretarySewardandlikedhim。
LeavingRomeinMay，wemadevisitsofdeepinteresttoAssisi，Perugia，Orvieto，andotherhistorictownsand，arrivingatFlorenceagain，sawsomethingofsocietyinthatcity。CountdeGubernatis，theeminentscholar，whohadjustreturnedfromIndia，waseloquentinpraiseoftheTajMahal，which，ofallbuildingsintheworld，istheoneImostdesiretosee。HethinksthatthestoriesregardingjugglinginIndiahavebeenmarvelouslydevelopedbytransmissionfromEasttoWest;thatgrowingthemango，ofwhichsomuchissaid，isaverypoortrick，asisalsothecrushing，killing，andrestorationtolifeofaboyunderabasket;thatthesemarvelsarenotatallwhatthestoriesreportthemtobe;thatitissimplyanothercaseoftherapidgrowthoflegendsbytransmission。HesaidthathatredforEnglandremainsdeepinIndia，andthatcastespiritisverylittlealtered，hisownservant，evenwhenverythirsty，notdaringtodrinkfromabottlewhichhismasterhadtouched。
DiningwithCountRessiathisnoblevillaontheslopetowardFiesole，InotedvariousdeliciousItalianwinesuponthetable，butthechampagnewaswhatisknownas"PleasantValleyCatawba，"
fromLakeKeukainwesternNewYork，whichthecount，duringhisjourneytoNiagara，hadfoundsogoodthathehadshippedaquantityofittoFlorence。
AveryinterestingmanIfoundintheMarquisAlfieriSostegno，vice—presidentoftheSenate，——amannotedforhishighcharacterandhiswritings。Heisthefounderofthenew"SchoolforPoliticalandSocialStudies，"andgavememuchinformationregardingit。Hisfamilyisofmediaevalorigin，butheisaliberaloftheCavoursort。Preferringconstitutionalmonarchy，butthinkingdemocracyinevitable，heasks，"ShallitbeademocracylikethatofFrance，excludingallreallyleadingmenfrompower，orademocracyinfluenceddirectlybyitsbestmen？"
Inhisschoolhehasattemptedtotrainyoungmeninthepracticalknowledgeneededinpublicaffairs，andhopesthustopreparethemfortheinevitablefuture。Thiscollegehasencounteredmuchoppositionfromthelocaluniversities，butismakingitsway。
AnothermanofthegrandoldItaliansortwasPeruzzi，syndicofFlorence，aformerassociateofCavour，andoneoftheleadingmenofItaly。Callingformewithtwoothersenators，hetookmetohiscountryvilla，whichhasbeeninthepossessionofthefamilyforoverfourhundredyears，andthereIdinedwithaverydistinguishedcompany。Everythingwaslargeandpatriarchal，butsimple。Thediscussions，bothattableandafterward，aswesatupontheterracewithitswonderfuloutlookoveroneoftherichestpartsofTuscany，mainlyrelatedtoItalianmatters。Allseemedhopefulofareasonablesolutionoftheclericaldifficulty。Mostinterestingwashiswife，DonnaEmilia，wellknownforherbrilliantpowersofdiscussionandherbeautifulqualitiesasahostessbothatthePeruzzipalaceinFlorenceandinthisvilla，whereonemeetsmenoflightandleadingfromeverypartoftheworld。
FromFlorencewewentontotheItalianlakes，stayingespeciallyatBaveno，Lugano，andCadenabbia。EspeciallyinterestingtomewerethescenesdepictedinthefirstpartofManzoni’s"PromessiSposi。"AneminentItaliantoldmeatthistimethatManzonineverforgavehimselfforhishumorousdelineationsofthepriestDonAbbondio，whofiguresinthesescenesafterasomewhatundignifiedfashion。InterestingalsowasavisittothetombofRosmini，withitsportrait—statuebyVela，inthemonasterylookingoverthemostbeautifulpartoftheLagoMaggiore。ThencebytheSt。GotthardtoZurich，wherewevisitedmyoldcolleague，ColonelRoth，theSwissministeratBerlin。VerysimpleandcharmingwashisfamilylifeatTeufen。InthelibraryInoticedacuriousshield，anduponitseveralswords，eachwithaninscription;and，onmyaskingregardingthem，IwastoldthattheyweretheofficialswordsofColonelRoth’sgreat—grandfather，grandfather，father，andhimself，eachofwhomhadbeenLandammanofthecanton。HetoldmethatasLandammanhepresidedfromtimetotimeoverapopularassemblyofseveralthousandpeople;thatitwasarepublicsuchasRousseauadvocated，——allthepeoplecomingtogetherandvoting，by"yes"
and"no"andshowingofhands，ontheproposalsoftheLandammanandhiscouncil。Drivingthroughthecanton，Ifoundthat，whilenoneofthepeoplewererich，fewwereverypoor，andthattheCatholicwasmuchbehindtheProtestantpartinthriftandprosperity。
MyloveforhistoricalstudiesinterestedmegreatlyinavisittotheAbbeyofSt。Gall。Themediaevalbuildingsarevirtuallygone，andamassofrocococonstructionshavetakentheirplace。
Gone，too，inthemain，isthefamouslibraryofthemiddleages;
buttheeminenthistorianandarchivist，HenneAmRhyn，showedmetheancientcataloguedatingfromthedaysofCharlemagne，andoneortwooftheoldmanuscriptsreferredtoinit，wh...完整阅读请扫描二维码下载丁香书院APP免费看：