Thereforeitwasthatitbecamenecessarytoextemporizeforthissoldieratrainingwhichshouldfithimforthedutiesofthepositionsounexpectedlyopenedtohim;andthemanchosenashistutorwasaprofessoratMoscow，distinguishedasajuristandtheologian，——amanofremarkableforceofcharacter，anddevotedtoRussianideasasdistinguishedfromthoseofWesternEurope:
　　ConstantinePobedonostzeff。
　　Duringthedarkandstormydaystowardtheendofhiscareer，AlexanderIIhadcalledinashismainadviserGeneralLoris—Melikoff，amanofArmeniandescent，inwhomwasmingledwiththeshrewdcharacteristicsofhisraceasinceredesiretogivetoRussiaapolicyanddevelopmentinaccordancewithmodernideas。
　　Theresulttheworldknowswell。TheEmperor，havingtakentheadviceofthisandothercouncilors，——deeplypatrioticmenlikeMiloutine，Samarine，andTcherkassky，——hadfreedtheserfswithinhisempire（twentymillionsinall）;hadsanctionedavastschemebywhichtheyweretoarriveatthepossessionoflandedproperty;hadestablishedlocalself—governmentinthevariousprovincesofhisempire;hadimprovedthecourtsoflaw;hadintroducedWesternideasintolegalprocedure;hadgreatlymitigatedtheseveritiesformerlyexercisedtowardtheJews;andhadmadeallreadytopromulgateaconstitutiononhisapproachingbirthday。
　　Butthisdidnotsatisfythenihilisticsect。Whatmoretheywanteditishardtosay。ItismorethandoubtfulwhetherRussiaeventhenhadarrivedatastageofcivilizationwhentheinstitutionswhichAlexanderIIhadalreadyconcededcouldbeadoptedwithprofit;buttheleadersoftheanarchicmovement，withtheirvaguelongingsforfruitonthedaythetreewasplanted，decreedtheEmperor’sdeath——theassassinationofthegreatestbenefactorthatRussiahaseverknown，oneofthegreatestthathumanityhasknown。Itwas，perhaps，themostfearfulcrimeevercommittedagainstlibertyandfreedom;foritblastedthehopesandaspirationsofoverahundredmillionsofpeople，anddoubtlessformanygenerations。
　　OnthisthesturdyyoungguardsmanbecametheEmperorAlexanderIII。ItisrelatedbymenconversantwithRussianaffairsthat，atthefirstmeetingoftheimperialcouncilors，Loris—Melikoiff，believingthattheyoungsovereignwouldbeledbyfilialreverencetocontinuetheliberalpolicytowhichthefatherhaddevotedhislife，madeaspeechtakingthisforgranted，andthatthemajorityofthosepresent，includingtheEmperor，seemedinaccordwithhim;whensuddenlytherearoseatall，gaunt，scholarlyman，whoatfirstverysimply，butfinallyveryeloquently，presentedadifferentview。Accordingtothechroniclersoftheperiod，PobedonostzefftoldtheEmperorthatallso—calledliberalmeasures，includingtheconstitution，wereadelusion;that，thoughsuchthingsmightbesuitedtoWesternEurope，theywerenotsuitedtoRussia;thattheconstitutionofthatempirehadbeen，fromtimeimmemorial，thewilloftheautocrat，directedbyhisownsenseofresponsibilitytotheAlmighty;thatnootherconstitutionwaspossibleinRussia;thatthisalonewasfittedtothetraditions，thelaws，theideasofthehundredandtwentymillionsofvariousracesundertheRussianscepter;thatinotherpartsoftheworldconstitutionalliberty，socalled，hadalreadyshownitselfanabsurdity;thatsocialism，anarchism，andnihilism，withtheirplotsandbombs，wereappearinginallquarters;thatmurderwasplottedagainstrulersofnationseverywhere，thebestofpresidentshavingbeenassassinatedintheverycountrywherefreeinstitutionsweresupposedtohavetakenthemostcompletehold;thattheprincipleofauthorityinhumangovernmentwastobesaved;andthatthisprincipleexistedasaneffectiveforceonlyinRussia。
　　Thisspeechissaidtohavecarriedallbeforeit。AsitsimmediateresultcametheretirementofLoris—Melikoff，followedbyhisdeathnotlongafterward;theentranceofPobedonostzeffamongthemostcherishedcouncilorsoftheEmperor;thesuppressionoftheconstitution;thediscouragementofeveryliberaltendency;andthatfanaticalreactionwhichhasbeeninfullforceeversince。
　　ThiswasthemanwhomIespeciallydesiredtoseeandtounderstand;andthereforeitwasthatIwasverygladtoreceivefromtheStateDepartmentinstructionstoconsultwithhimregardingsomeratherdelicatemattersneedingadjustmentbetweentheGreekChurchandourauthoritiesinAlaska，andalsoinrelationtotherepresentationofRussiaattheChicagoExposition。
　　Ifoundhim，asoneofthegreatministersofthecrown，residinginaministerialpalace，butstillretaining，inlargemeasure，hisoldqualityofprofessor。Abouthimwasabeautifullibrary，witheveryevidenceofaloveforartandliterature。Ihadgoneintohispresencewithmanyfeelingsofdoubt。AgainstnooneinRussiahadchargessobitterbeenmadeinmyhearing:itwasuniversallyinsistedthathewasresponsibleforthepersecutionoftheRomanCatholicsinPoland，oftheLutheransintheBalticprovincesandinFinland，oftheStundistsinCentralRussia，andofthedissentingsectseverywhere。HehadbeenspokenofintheEnglishreviewsasthe"Torquemadaofthenineteenthcentury，"
　　andthisepithetseemedtobegenerallyacceptedasfitting。
　　Ifoundhimascholarly，kindlyman，readytodiscussthebusinesswhichIbroughtbeforehim，andshowingawideinterestinpublicaffairs。Therewerefew，ifany，doctrines，eitherpoliticalortheological，whichweheldincommon，butheseemedinclinedtomeetthewishesofourgovernmentasfullyandfairlyashecould;andthuswasbegunoneofthemostinterestingacquaintancesIhaveevermade。
　　HisusualtimeofreceivinghisfriendswasonSundayeveningbetweennineandtwelve;andverymanysucheveningsIpassedinhisstudy，discussingwithhim，overglassesoffragrantRussiantea，everysortofquestionwiththeutmostfreedom。
　　Isoonfoundthathisreasonsforthatcourseofactiontowhichtheworldsogenerallyobjectsarenotsosuperficialastheyareusuallythought。Therepressivepolicywhichhehassoearnestlyadoptedisbasednotmerelyuponhisviewsasatheologian，butuponhisconvictionsasastatesman。While，asaRusso—Greekchurchman，heregardstheestablishedchurchoftheempireastheformofChristianitymostprimitiveandpure;andwhileheseesinitsritual，initsart，andinallthecharacteristicsofitsworshipthenearestapproachtohisideals，helooksatitalsofromthepointofviewofastatesman——asthegreatestcementingpowerofthevastempirethroughwhichitisspread。
　　Thisbeingthecase，henaturallyopposesallotherreligiousbodiesinRussiaasnotmerelyinflictinginjuryuponChristianity，butastendingtothepoliticaldisintegrationoftheempire。Never，inanyofourconversations，didIhearhimspeakaharshwordofanyotherchurchorofanyreligiousideasopposedtohisown;butitwasclearthatheregardedProtestantsanddissidentsectsgenerallyasbutagentsintheprogressofdisintegrationwhich，inWesternEurope，seemedapproachingacrisis，andthatheconsideredtheRomanCatholicChurchinPolandaspracticallyapoliticalmachinemanagedbyahierarchyindeadlyhostilitytotheRussianEmpireandtoRussianinfluenceeverywhere。
　　Indiscussinghisownchurch，heneverhesitatedtospeakplainlyofitsevidentshortcomings。Unquestionably，oneofthewishesnearesthisheartistoreformtheabuseswhichhavegrownupamongitsclergy，especiallyintheirpersonalhabits。Here，too，isareasonforanyrepressivepolicywhichhemayhaveexercisedagainstotherreligiousbodies。EverythingthatdetractsfromtheestablishedRusso—GreekChurchdetractsfromtherevenuesofitsclergy，and，asthesearepitifullysmall，aidstokeepthepriestsandtheirfamiliesinthelowconditionfromwhichheissoearnestlyendeavoringtoraisethem。AsregardstheseverepolicyinauguratedbyAlexanderIIIagainsttheJewsoftheempire，whichPobedonostzeff，morethananyotherman，issupposedtohaveinspired，heseemedtohavenoharshfeelingsagainstIsraelitesassuch;buthisconductseemedbaseduponatheorywhich，invariousconversations，hepresentedwithmuchforce:namely，thatRussia，havingwithinitsbordersmoreJewsthanexistinalltheworldbesides，andhavingsufferedgreatlyfromtheseasfromanorganizationreallyincapableofassimilationwiththebodypolitic，mustpursuearepressivepolicytowardthemandisolatetheminordertoprotectitsruralpopulation。
　　WhilehewasverycivilinhisexpressionsregardingtheUnitedStates，heclearlyconsideredallWesterncivilizationafailure。
　　Heseemedtoanticipate，beforelong，acollapseinthesystemsandinstitutionsofWesternEurope。Tohimsocialismandanarchism，withalltheyimply，werebutsymptomsofawide—spreadpoliticalandsocialdisease——indicationsofanapproachingcatastrophedestinedtoendacivilizationwhich，havingrejectedorthodoxy，hadcastasideauthority，giventheforceoflawtothewhimsiesofilliteratemajorities，andaccepted，asthevoiceofGod，thevoiceofunthinkingmobs，blindtotheirowninterestsandutterlyincapableofworkingouttheirowngood。ItwasevidentthatheregardedRussiaasrepresentingamongthenationstheideaofHeaven—givenandchurch—anointedauthority，astheempiredestinedtosavetheprincipleofdivinerightandtheruleofthefittest。
　　RevolutionaryeffortsinRussiahediscussedcalmly。ReferringtoLoris—Melikoff，therepresentativeoftheprinciplesmoststronglyopposedtohisown，nowordofcensureescapedhim。Theonlyevidenceofdeepfeelingonthissubjectheevershowedinmypresencewaswhenhereferredtothewritingsofawell—knownRussianrefugeeinLondon，andsaid，"Heisamurderer。"
　　Astopublicinstruction，heevidentlyheldtotheideasothoroughlycarriedoutinRussia:namely，thattheupperclass，whichistoconductthebusinessofthestate，shouldbehighlyeducated，butthatthemassofthepeopleneednoeducationbeyondwhatwillkeepthemcontentedinthehumblestationtowhichithaspleasedGodtocallthem。AverycuriousexampleofhisconservatismInotedinhisremarksregardingthedroshkiesofSt。Petersburg。Thedroshky—driversareRussianpeasants，simpleand，asarule，pious;rarelyfailingtomakethesignofthecrossonpassingachurchorshrine，oratanyothermomentwhichseemstothemsolemn。Theyarepossiblypicturesque，butcertainlydirty，intheirclothingandinalltheirsurroundings。
　　Aconveyancemorewretchedthantheordinarystreet—droshkyofaRussiancitycouldhardlybeconceived，andmeasureshadbeenproposedforimprovingthissystem;buthecouldseenouseinthem。TheexistingsystemwasthoroughlyRussian，andthatwasenough。Itappealedtohisconservatism。Thedroshky—drivers，withtheirRussiancaps，theirlonghairandbeards，theirpicturesquecaftans，andtheirdeferentialdemeanor，satisfiedhisestheticsense。
　　Whatseemedtomeaclashbetweenhisorthodoxconservatismononeside，andhisRussianprideontheother，IdiscoveredonmyreturnfromavisittoMoscow，inwhichIhadsundrywalksandtalkswithTolstoi。Onmyalludingtothis，heshowedsomeinterest。Itwasclearthathewasseparatedbyawholeorbofthoughtfromthegreatnovelist，yetitwasnonethelessevidentthathetookprideinhim。HenaturallyconsideredTolstoiashopelesslywronginallhisfundamentalideas，andyetwashimselftoomuchofamanoflettersnottorecognizeinhisbrilliantcountrymanoneofthegloriesofRussia。
　　Butthemostcurious——indeed，themostamazing——revelationofthemanIfoundinhisloveforAmericanliterature。Heisawidereader;and，inthewholebreadthofhisreading，Americanauthorswereevidentlyamongthosehepreferred。OfthesehisfavoriteswereHawthorne，Lowell，and，aboveall，Emerson。
　　Curious，indeed，wasittolearnthatthis"arch—persecutor，"
　　this"Torquemadaofthenineteenthcentury，"thismanwhosehandisespeciallyheavyuponCatholicsandProtestantsanddissentersthroughouttheempire，whosenameisspokenwithabhorrencebymillionswithintheempireandwithoutit，stillreads，ashisfavoriteauthor，thephilosopherofConcord。HetoldmethatthefirstbookwhichheevertranslatedintoRussianwasThomasaKempis’s"ImitationofChrist";andofthathegavemetheLatinoriginalfromwhichhemadehistranslation，withacopyofthetranslationitself。ButhealsotoldmethatthenextbookhetranslatedwasavolumeofEmerson’s"Essays，"andheaddedthatforyearstherehadalwayslainopenuponhisstudytableavolumeofEmerson’swritings。
　　Thereis，thusclearly，arelationofhismindtotheliteratureoftheWesternworldveryforeigntohisfeelingsregardingWesternreligiousideas。Thiscanbeaccountedforperhapsbyhisowncharacterasamanofletters。Thathehasadistinctliterarygiftiscertain。Ihaveinmypossessionsundryarticlesofhis，andespeciallyapoeminmanuscript，whichshowrealpoeticfeelingandamarkedpowerofexpression。Itisacuriousfactthat，thoughsoaddictedtoEnglishandAmericanliterature，heutterlyrefusestoconverseinourlanguage。HismediumofcommunicationwithforeignersisalwaysFrench。Onmyaskinghimwhyhewouldnotuseourlanguageinconversation，heansweredthathehadlearneditfrombooks，andthathispronunciationofitwouldexposehimtoridicule。
　　InvariouscirclesinSt。PetersburgIheardhimspokenofasahypocrite，butasimplesenseofjusticecompelsmetodeclarethisaccusationunjust。Heindeedretiresintoaconventforaportionofeveryyeartojointhemonksintheirausterities;butthispracticeis，Ibelieve，theoutgrowthofadeepreligiousfeeling。Onreturningfromoneofthesevisits，hebroughttomywifealargeEastereggoflacqueredwork，exquisitelyilluminated。Ihaveexamined，invariouspartsofEurope，beautifulspecimensofthebestperiodsofmediaevalart;butinnooneofthemhaveIfoundanythinginthewayofilluminationmoreperfectthanthiswhichhebroughtfromhismonkishbrethren。InnothingdidheseemtounbendmorethaninhisunfeignedloveforreligiousartasitexistsinRussia。HediscussedwithmeoneeveningsundryphotographsofthenewreligiouspaintingsinthecathedralofKieffinaspiritwhichrevealedthisfeelingforreligiousartasoneofthedeepestcharacteristicsofhisnature。
　　Hewasevidentlyequallysensitivetothebeautiesofreligiousliterature。GivingmevariousbookscontainingtheservicesoftheOrthodoxChurch，hedweltuponthebeautyoftheSlavonicversionofthePsalmsanduponthechurchhymnology。
　　Thesameestheticsideofhisnaturewasevidentatvariousgreatchurchceremonies。IthashappenedtometoseePiusIXcelebratemass，bothatthehighaltarofSt。Peter’sandintheSistineChapel，andtowitnesstheceremoniesofHolyWeekandofEasterattheRomanbasilicas，andatthetimeitwashardtoconceiveanythingofthekindmoreimpressive;butIhaveneverseenanychurchfunctions，onthewhole，moreimposingthanthefuneralserviceoftheEmperorNicholasduringmyfirstvisittoRussia，andvariousimperialweddings，funerals，name—days，andthelike，duringmysecondvisit。OnsuchoccasionsPobedonostzefffrequentlycameoverfromhispositionamongtheministersofthecrowntoexplaintousthesignificanceofthisorthatfeatureintheritualofmusic。Itwasplainthatthesethingstouchedwhatwasdeepestinhim;itmustbeconfessedthathisattachmenttothechurchissincere。
　　Norweretheseimpressionsmadeuponmealone。Itfelltomylottopresenttohimoneofthemosteminentjournalistsourcountryhasproduced——CharlesA。Dana，amanwhocoulddiscussoneventermswithanyEuropeanstatesmanalltheleadingmodernquestions。Danahadbeenbroughtintoclosecontactwithmanygreatmen;butitwasplaintosee——whatheafterwardacknowledgedtome——thathewasverydeeplyimpressedbythiseminentRussian。ThetalkoftwosuchmenthrewnewlightuponthecharacteristicsofPobedonostzeff，andstrengthenedmyimpressionofhisintellectualsincerity。
　　InregardtotherelationoftheRusso—GreekChurchtootherchurchesIspoketohimatvarioustimes，andfoundinhimnopersonalfeelingofdisliketothem。Thenearestapproachtosuchafeelingappeared，greatlytomysurprise，insundryreferencestotheGreekChurchasitexistsinGreece。IntheseheshowedaspiritmuchlikethatwhichusedtobecommonamongHigh—churchEpiscopaliansinspeakingofLow—church"Evangelicals。"MindfuloftheearnesteffortsmadebytheAnglicancommuniontocomeintocloserrelationswiththeRussianbranchoftheEasternChurch，Iatvarioustimesbroachedthatsubject，andtheglimpsesIobtainedofhisfeelingregardingitsurprisedme。
　　PreviouslytotheseinterviewsIhadsupposedthatthemaindifficultyinthewaytofriendlyrelationsbetweenthesetwobranchesofthechurchuniversalhaditsorigininthe"filioque"
　　clauseoftheNiceneCreed。Asiswellknown，theEasternChurchadherestothatcreedinitsoriginalform，——theforminwhichtheHolyGhostisrepresentedas"proceedingfromtheFather，"——whereastheWesternChurchadoptstheadditionalwords，"andfromtheSon。"ThattheRusso—GreekChurchisverytenaciousofitspositioninthisrespect，andconsidersthepositionoftheWesternChurch——CatholicandProtestant——assavoringofblasphemy，iswellknown;andtherewasacuriousevidenceofthisduringmysecondstayinRussia。TwiceduringthattimeI
　　heardthe"MissaSolennis"ofBeethoven。ItwasfirstgivenbyasplendidchoirinthegreathalloftheUniversityofHelsingfors。ThatbeinginFinland，whichismainlyLutheran，theCreedwassunginitsWesternform。Naturally，ongoingtohearitgivenbyagreatchoiratSt。Petersburg，Iwascurioustoknowhowthisfamousclausewouldbedealtwith。InvariouspartsoftheaudiencewerepriestsoftheRusso—Greekfaith，yettherewereverymanyLutheransandCalvinists，andIwatchedwithsomeinteresttheapproachofthepassagecontainingthedisputedwords;butwhenwereachedthisitwaswhollyomitted。Anyallusiontothe"procession"wasevidentlyforbidden。Great，therefore，wasmysurprisewhen，onmyaskingPobedonostzeff，[5]
　　astherepresentativeoftheEmperorintheSynodoftheempire，——thehighestassemblageinthechurch，andhethemostinfluentialmaninit，reallycontrollingarchbishopsandbishopsthroughouttheempire，——whetherthe"filioque"clauseisaninsurmountableobstacletounion，hereplied，"Notatall;thatissimplyaquestionofdialectics。Butwithwhomarewetounite？ShallitbewiththeHigh—churchmen，theBroad—churchmen，ortheLow—churchmen？Thesearethreedifferentbodiesofmenwithdistinctlydifferentideasofchurchorder;indeed，withdistinctlydifferentcreeds。WhichoftheseistheOrthodoxChurchtoregardastherepresentativeoftheAnglicancommunion？"Iendeavoredtoshowhimthattheunion，ifittookplaceatall，mustbebasedonideasandbeliefsthatunderlieallthesedistinctions;buthestillreturnedtohisoriginalproposition，whichwasthatunionisimpossibleuntilamoredistinctbasisthananynowattainablecanbearrivedat。
　　[5]Ifind，inaletterfromPobedonostzeff，thathespellshisnameashereprinted。
　　IsuggestedtohimavisittoGreatBritainandhismakingtheacquaintanceofleadingEnglishmen;buttothisheansweredthatathistimeoflifehehadnoleisureforsucharecreation;thathisdutiesabsolutelyforbadeit。
　　InregardtorelationswiththeRusso—GreekChurchonourowncontinent，heseemedtospeakwithgreatpleasureofthetreatmentthatsundryRussianbishopshadreceivedamongus。HereadmelettersfromamemberoftheRusso—Greekhierarchy，fullofthekindliestexpressionstowardAmericans，andespeciallyacknowledgingtheirfriendlyreceptionofhimandofhisministrations。Boththearchbishopinhisletter，andPobedonostzeffinhistalk，wereverymuchamusedoverthefactthattheAmericans，afterextendingvariousothercourtesiestothearchbishop，offeredhimcigars。
　　Hediscussedthepossibilityofintroducingthe"HolyOrthodoxChurch"intotheUnitedStates，butalwaysdisclaimedallzealinreligiouspropagandism，sayingthatthechurchauthoritieshadquiteenoughworktodoinextendingandfortifyingthechurchthroughouttheRussianEmpire。HesaidthatthepagantribesoftheimperialdominionsinAsiaseemedmoreinclinedtoMohammedanismthantoChristianity，andgaveastheprobablereasonthefactthattheformerfaithismuchthesimplerofthetwo。HewasevidentlyunabletograsptheideaoftheCongressofReligionsattheChicagoExposition，andseemedinclinedtotakeamildlyhumorousviewofitasoneofthedrollinventionsofthetime。
　　Heappearedtoholdournationasaproblemapart，andwas，perhaps，toocivilinhisconversationswithmetoincludeitinthesamecondemnationwiththenationsofWesternEuropewhichhad，inhisopinion，gonehopelesslywrong。HealsoseemeddrawntousbyhisadmirationforEmerson，Hawthorne，andLowell。WhenProfessorNorton’seditionofLowell’s"Letters"cameout，Iatoncetookittohim。Itevidentlygavehimgreatpleasure——perhapsbecauseitrevealedtohimaverydifferentcivilization，life，andpersonalityfromanythingtowhichhehadbeenaccustomed。Still，Americaseemedtobetohimasortofdreamland。HeconstantlyreturnedtoRussianaffairsastothegreatrealitiesoftheworld。Discussing，asweoftendid，theconditionandfutureofthewildtribesandnationswithintheAsiaticlimitsoftheempire，hebetrayednodesireeitherforcrusadesorforintriguestoconvertthem;hesimplyspokeofthelegitimateinfluenceofthechurchincivilizingthem。
　　Irecallabrilliantbutdenunciatoryarticle，publishedinoneoftheEnglishreviewssometimesincebyawell—knownnihilist，whichcontained，inthemidstofvariouschargesagainsttheRussianstatesman，adescriptionofhissmile，whichwascharacterizedasforbidding，andevenghastly。Iwatchedforthissmilewithmuchinterest，butitnevercame。AsmileuponhisfaceIhaveoftenseen;butitwasakindlysmile，withnotraceofanythingghastlyorcruelinit。
　　Heseemedtotakepleasureinthesocietyofhisoldprofessorialfriends，andoneofthemheoncebroughttomytable。Thiswasaprofessorofhistory，deeplyconversantwiththeaffairsoftheempire;andwediscussedthecharacterandcareerofCatherineII。Thetwomentogetherbroughtoutamassofcuriousinformation，throwingastrangelightintotransactionswhichonlythemostrecenthistoriansarebeginningtounderstand，amongthesetheassassinationofCzarPeterIII，Catherine’shusband。OnoneoccasionwhenPobedonostzeffwasvisitingmeI
　　testedhisknowledgeinregardtoamatterofspecialinterest，andobtainedanewside—lightuponhistheoryoftheuniverse。
　　ThereisatpresentontheislandofCronstadt，atthemouthoftheNeva，aRusso—Greekpriest，FatherIvan，whoenjoysthroughouttheempireavastreputationasasaintlyworkerofmiracles。Thispriesthasaveryspiritualandkindlyface;isknowntoreceivevastsumsforthepoor，whichhedistributesamongthemwhilehehimselfremainsinpoverty;andissupposednotmerelybymembersoftheRusso—GreekChurch，butbythoseofotherreligiousbodies，toworkfrequentmiraclesofhealing。I
　　wasassuredbypersonsofthehighestcharacter——andthosenotonlyRusso—Greekchurchmen，butRomanCatholicsandAnglicans——thattherecouldbenodoubtastotherealityofthesemiracles，andvariousexamplesweregivenme。SogreatisFatherIvan’sreputationinthisrespectthatheisinconstantdemandinallpartsoftheempire，andwasevensummonedtoLivadiaduringthelastillnessofthelateEmperor。Wheneverheappearsinpublicgreatcrowdssurroundhim，seekingtotouchthehemofhisgarment。HispictureistobeseenwiththeportraitsofthesaintsinvastnumbersofRussianhomes，fromthepalacesofthehighestnoblestothecottagesofthehumblestpeasants。
　　IthappenedtomeononeoccasiontohaveanexperiencewhichI
　　haverelatedelsewhere，butwhichisrepeatedhereasthrowinglightontheideasoftheRussianstatesman。
　　OnmyarrivalinSt。PetersburgmyattentionwasatoncearousedbytheportraitsofFatherIvan。Theyrangedfromphotographsabsolutelytruetolife，whichrevealedaplain，shrewd，kindlyface，tothosewhichwereidealizeduntiltheyboreanearresemblancetotheconventionalrepresentationsofJesusofNazareth。
　　Oneday，inoneofthemostbrilliantreception—roomsoftheNortherncapital，thesubjectofFatherIvan’smiracleshavingbeenintroduced，agentlemaninveryhighsocialposition，andentirelytrustworthy，spokeasfollows:"Thereissomethingverysurprisingaboutthesemiracles。Iamslowtobelieveinthem;
　　butthereisoneofthemwhichisoverwhelmingandabsolutelytrue。ThelateMetropolitanofSt。Petersburg，ArchbishopIsidore，lovedquiet，andwasveryaversetoanythingwhichcouldpossiblycausescandal。HearingofthewonderswroughtbyFatherIvan，hesummonedhimtohispresenceandsternlycommandedhimtoabstainfromallthethingswhichhadgivenrisetothesereportedmiracles，assuretocreatescandal，andwiththisinjunctiondismissedhim。Hardlyhadthepriestlefttheroomwhenthearchbishopwasstruckwithblindness，andheremainedinthisconditionuntilthepriestreturnedandrestoredhissightbyintercessoryprayer。"WhenIaskedthegentlemangivingthisaccountifhedirectlyknewthesefacts，herepliedthathewas，ofcourse，notpresentwhenthemiraclewaswrought;butthathehadthefactsimmediatelyfrompersonswhoknewallthepartiesconcerned，aswellasallthecircumstancesofthecase;and，indeed，thatthesecircumstanceswerematterofgeneralknowledge。
　　Sometimeafterward，beingatanafternoonreceptioninoneofthegreaterembassies，Ibroughtupthesamesubject，whenaneminentgeneralspokeasfollows:"Iamnotinclinedtobelieveinmiracles，——infact，amratherskeptical;buttheproofsofthosewroughtbyFatherIvanareoverwhelming。"Hethenwentontosaythatthelatemetropolitanarchbishopwasamanwholovedquietanddislikedscandal;thatonthisaccounthehadsummonedFatherIvantohispalace，andorderedhimtoputanendtotheconductwhichhadcausedthereportsconcerninghismiraculouspowers;
　　andthen，withawaveofhisarm，haddismissedhim。Thepriestlefttheroom，andfromthatmomentthearchbishop’sarmwasparalyzed;anditremainedsountilthepenitentprelatesummonedthepriestagain，bywhoseprayersthearmwasrestoredtoitsformerusefulness。Therewaspresentatthetimeanotherpersonbesidesmyselfwhohadheardthepreviousstatementastotheblindnessofthearchbishop;and，onourbothaskingthegeneralifhewassurethatthearchbishop’sarmwasparalyzedasstated，hedeclaredthathecouldnotdoubtit，ashehadtheaccountdirectlyfrompersonsentirelytrustworthywhowerecognizantofallthefacts。
　　Sometimelater，meetingPobedonostzeff，Iaskedhimwhichofthesestorieswascorrect。Heansweredimmediately，"Neither:inthedischargeofmydutiesIsawtheArchbishopIsidoreconstantlydowntothelasthoursofhislife，andnosucheventeveroccurred。Hewasneverparalyzedandneverblind。"Butthegreatstatesmanandchurchmanthenwentontosaythat，althoughthisstorywasuntrue，therewereamultitudeofothersquiteasremarkableinwhichhebelieved;andhegavemeanumberoflegendsshowingthatFatherIvanpossessedsupernaturalknowledgeandmiraculouspowers。Theseheunfoldedtomewithmuchdetail，andwithsuchanaccentofconvictionthatweseemedsurroundedbyamediaevalatmosphereinwhichsignsandwonderswerethemostnaturalthingsintheworld。
　　AstohisactiononpoliticssincemyleavingRussia，thepowerwhichheexercisedoverAlexanderIIIhasevidentlybeencontinuedduringthereignoftheyoungNicholasII。Inspiteofhiseightyyears，heseemstobe，to—day，theleaderofthereactionaryparty。
　　DuringtheearlyweeksofTheHagueConference，CountMunster，inhisfrequentdiatribesagainstitswholepurpose，andespeciallyagainstarbitration，waswonttoinsistthatthewholethingwasaschemepreparedbyPobedonostzefftoembarrassGermany;that，asRussiawasalwayswretchedlyunreadywithherarmy，TheHagueConferencewassimplyatrickforgainingtimeagainstherrivalswhokeptupbettermilitarypreparations。Theremayhavebeentruthinpartofthisassertion;butthemotiveofthegreatRussianstatesmaninfavoringtheconferencewasprobablynotsomuchtogaintimeforthearmyastogainmoneyforthechurch。
　　WithhisintensedesiretoincreasethestipendsoftheRussianorthodoxclergy，andthustoraisethemsomewhatabovetheirpresentlowcondition，hemusthavegroanedovertheenormoussumsspentbyhisgovernmentinthefrequentchangesinalmosteveryitemofexpenditureforitsvastarmy——changesmadeintimesofprofoundpeace，simplytoshowthatRussiawaskeepingherarmyabreastofthoseofhersisternations。HencecametheexpressedRussiandesireto"keeppeoplefrominventingthings。"
　　Ithasalwaysseemedtomethat，whiletheideaunderlyingthePeaceConferencecameoriginallyfromJeandeBloch，theremusthavebeenpowerfulaidfromPobedonostzeff。Somuchofgood——and，indeed，ofgreatgood——wemayattributetohimashighlyprobable，ifnotcertain。
　　But，ontheotherhand，therewouldseemtobeequalreasonforattributingtohim，intheselatterdays，afearfulmassofevil。
　　TosaynothingofthepolicyofRussiainPolandandelsewhere，herdealingswithFinlandthusfarformoneoftheblackestspotsonthehistoryoftheempire。Whetherheoriginatedthisiniquityornotisuncertain;butwhen，in1892，IfirstsawthenewRussiancathedralrisingontheheightsaboveHelsingfors，——astructurevastlymoreimposingthananywarrantedbythesmallnumberofthe"orthodox"inFinland，——withitsarchitectureoftheoldMuscovitetype，symbolicaloffetishism，Icouldnotbutrecognizehishandinit。ItseemedcleartomethatherewasthebeginningofreligiousaggressionontheLutheranFinlanders，whichmustlogicallybefollowedbypoliticalandmilitaryaggression;and，inviewofhisagencyinthisasineverythingreactionary，Ididnotwonderattheattempttoassassinatehimnotlongafterward。
　　DuringmyrecentstayinGermanyhevisitedmeattheBerlinEmbassy。Hewas，asofold，apparentlygentle，kindly，interestedinliterature，notinterestedtoanygreatextentincurrentWesternpolitics。Thisgentle，kindlymannerofhisbroughtbackforciblytomymindaremarkofoneofthemostcultivatedwomenImetinRussia，aprincessofancientlineage，whoardentlydesiredreasonablereforms，andwho，whenImentionedtoherareportthatPobedonostzeffwaswearyofpoliticallife，andwasabouttoretirefromofficeinordertodevotehimselftoliterarypursuits，said:"Don’t，Ibegofyou，tellmethat;forIhavealwaysnoticedthatwheneversuchareportiscirculated，itisfollowedbysomenewschemeofhis，evenmoreinfernalthanthoseprecedingit。"
　　Somuchforthemanwho，duringthepresentreign，seemsoneofthemainagentsinholdingRussianpolicyontheroadtoruin。Heisindeedastudy。Thedescriptiveepithetwhichclingstohim——"theTorquemadaofthenineteenthcentury"——heoncediscussedwithmeinnounkindlyspirit;indeed，inasgentleaspiritascanwellbeconceived。Hislifefurnishesamostinterestingstudyinchurchmanship，instatesmanship，andinhumannature，andshowshowsomeofthemenmostseverelycondemnedbymodernhistorians——greatpersecutors，inquisitors，andthelike——mayhavebasedtheiractionsontheoriestheworldhaslittleunderstood，andmayhavehadaslittleconsciousferocityastheirmoretolerantneighbors。
　　CHAPTERXXXVII
　　WALKSANDTALESWITHTOLSTOI——MARCH，1894
　　RevisitingMoscowafteranabsenceofthirty—fiveyears，themostsurprisingthingtomewasthattherehadbeensolittlechange。
　　WiththeexceptionofthenewgalleryofRussianart，andthebazaaroppositethesacredgateoftheKremlin，thingsseemedasIhadleftthemjustaftertheaccessionofAlexanderII。Therewerethesameunkemptstreets;thesamepeasantrycladinsheepskins;thesametroopsofbeggars，sturdyanddirty;thesamesqualidcrowdscrossingthemselvesbeforetheimagesatthestreetcorners;thesamethrongsofworshipersknockingtheirheadsagainstthepavementsofchurches;andaboveallloomed，nowasthen，thetowerofIvanandthedomesofSt。Basil，gloomy，gaudy，andbarbaric。Onlyonechangehadtakenplacewhichinterestedme:forthefirsttimeinthehistoryofRussia，amanofworld—widefameinliteratureandthoughtwasabidingthere——CountLeoTolstoi。
　　OntheeveningofmyarrivalIwentwithmysecretarytohisweeklyreception。Asweenteredhishouseontheoutskirtsofthecity，twoservantsineveningdresscameforward，removedourfurcoats，andopenedthedoorsintothereception—roomofthemaster。Thencameasurprise。Hisliving—roomseemedthecabinofaRussianpeasant。Itwaswainscotedalmostrudelyandfurnishedverysimply;andthereapproachedusatall，gauntRussian，unmistakablyborntocommand，yetcladasapeasant，hishairthrownbackoverhisearsoneitherside，hisflowingblousekepttogetherbyaleatherngirdle，hishighjack—bootscompletingthecostume。ThiswasTolstoi。
　　Nothingcouldbemorekindlythanhisgreeting。Whilehisdresswasthatofapeasant，hisbearingwastheveryopposite;for，insteadofthedepressed，demure，hangdogexpressionoftheaveragemuzhik，hismanner，thoughcordial，wasdignifiedandimpressive。Havinggivenusaheartywelcome，hemadeusacquaintedwithvariousotherguests。Itwasasingularassemblage。Therewereforeignersineveningdress，Moscowprofessorsinanydresstheyliked，andacertainnumberofyouth，evidentlydisciples，who，thoughclearlynotofthepeasantclass，worethepeasantcostume。Iobservedthesewithinterestbutcertainlyaslongastheywereunderthespellofthemastertheycommunicatednothingworthpreserving;theyseemedtoshow"thecontortionsofthesibylwithouttheinspiration。"
　　Theprofessorsweremuchmoreengaging。TheUniversityofMoscowhasinitsteachingbodyseveralstrongmen，andsomeofthesewerepresent。Oneofthem，whosedepartmentwasphilosophy，especiallyinterestedandencouragedmebyassurancesthatthemovementofRussianphilosophyis"backtoKant。"InthestrangewelterofwhimsanddreamswhichonefindsinRussia，thiswastomeanunexpectedevidenceofhealthfulthought。
　　Naturally，Isoonaskedtobepresentedtotheladyofthehouse，andthecountescortedusthroughaseriesofroomstoasalonfurnishedmuchlikeanyhandsomeapartmentinParisorSt。
　　Petersburg，wherethecountess，withotherladies，allinfulleveningdress，receiveduscordially。Thissuddentransitionfromthepeasantcabinofthemastertothesesumptuousroomsofthemistresswasstartling;itseemedlikescene—shiftingatatheater。