EntranceintotheHouseofLordsgivesamansomethingtodo，withnewfriendsandpleasingrelations。Astothename，Iwouldgladlyhaveretainedmyown，buthadnochoice;infact，whenLordJohnRussellwasmadeanearl，hisinsistingonretaininghisnamewasnotespeciallyliked。VariousplacesontheRussellestatesweresubmittedtomeformychoice，andItookAmpthill。’’
Alas！hisplanscametonothing。HediedathispostbeforehisretirementtoEngland。
AmongthosethenconnectedwiththeBritishEmbassyatBerlin，oneofthemostinterestingwasColonel（nowGeneral）LordMethuen，who，afewyearssince，tooksohonorableapartintheSouthAfricanWar。Hewasatthattimeatall，awkwardman，kindly，genial，whoalwaysremindedmeofThackeray’s``MajorSugarplums。’’
Hehadrecentlylosthiswife，andwasevidentlyindeepsorrow。Onemorningtherecameacuriousbitofnewsregardinghim。Afewdaysbefore，walkinginsomeremotepartoftheThiergarten，hesawaworking—manthrowhimselfintotheriver，andinstantlyjumpedintotheicystreamafterhim，grappledhim，pulledhimout，laidhimonthebank，andrapidlywalkedoff。Whennewsofitgotout，hewastaxedwithitbyvariousmembersofthediplomaticcorps;butheawkwardlyandblushinglypooh—poohedthewholematter。
Oneevening，notlongafterward，Iwitnessedaverypleasantsceneconnectedwiththisrescue。AswewereallassembledatsomeminorfestivityintheprivatepalaceontheLinden，theoldEmperorsentforthecolonel，andonhiscomingup，hisMajestytookfromhisowncoatamedalofhonorforlife—savingandattachedittothebreastofMethuen，whoreceiveditinaveryawkwardyetmanlyfashion。
TheFrenchambassadorwastheCountdeSt。Vallier，oneofthemostagreeablemenIhaveevermet，whodeservedallthemorecreditforhisamiablequalitiesbecauseheconstantlyexercisedthemdespitethemostwretchedhealth。DuringhissplendiddinnersattheFrenchEmbassy，hesimplytoyedwithabitofbread，notdaringtoeatanything。
Wewerefirstthrownespeciallytogetherbyarepresentationinfavorofthedoublestandardofvalue，which，underinstructionsfromourgovernments，wejointlymadetotheGermanForeignOffice，andafterthatourrelationsbecameveryfriendly。WhenevertheFourthofJulyorWashington’sBirthdaycameround，hewassuretorememberitandmakeafriendlycall。
Mylikingforhimoncebroughtuponmeoneofthemostembarrassingmishapsofmylife。ItwasatNice，andatthetabled’hteofagreathotelonthePromenadedesAnglais，whereIwasseatednextaFrenchcountesswho，thoughshehadcertainlypassedherthreescoreyearsandten，wasstillmostagreeable。Dayafterdaywechattedtogether，andallwentwell;butoneevening，onourmeetingattableasusual，shesaid，``IamtoldthatyouaretheAmericanministeratBerlin。’’Ianswered，``Yes，madam。’’Shethensaid，``WhenIwasayoungwoman，IwaswellacquaintedwiththemotherofthepresentFrenchambassadorthere。’’AtthisIlaunchedoutintopraisesofCountSt。Vallier，aswellImight;
speakingofthehighregardfeltforhimatBerlin，thehonorshehadreceivedfromtheGermanGovernment，andthelikingforhimamonghiscolleagues。Thecountesslistenedinsilence，andwhenIhadfinishedturnedseverelyuponme，saying，``Monsieur，uptothismomentIhavebelievedyouanhonestman;butnowIreallydon’tknowwhattothinkofyou。’’OfcourseIwasdumfounded，butpresentlythereasonfortheremarkoccurredtome，andIsaid，``Madam，M。deSt。VallierservesFrance。Whateverhisprivateopinionsmaybe，henodoubtfeelsithisdutytocontinueintheserviceofhiscountry。Itwouldcertainlybeagreatpityif，ateverychangeofgovernmentinFrance，everyofficerwhodidnotagreewiththenewrgimeshouldleavethediplomaticserviceorthemilitaryserviceorthenavalservice，thusinjuringtheinterestsofFranceperhapsmostseriously。
SupposetheComtedeChambordshouldbecalledtothethroneofFrance，whatwouldyouthinkofOrleanistsandrepublicanswhoshouldimmediatelyresigntheirplacesinthearmy，navy，anddiplomaticservice，thusembarrassing，perhapsfatally，themonarchyandthecountry？’’Atthis，tomyhorror，theladywentintohysterics，andbeganscreaming。Shecriedout，``Oui，monsieur，ilreviendra，HenriCinq;ilreviendra。Dieuestaveclui;ilreviendramalgrtout，’’etc。，etc。，andfinallyshejumpedupandrushedoutoftheroom。Theeyesofthewholetablewereturneduponus，andIfullyexpectedthatsomegallantFrenchmanwouldcomeupandchallengemeforinsultingalady;butnoonemoved，andpresentlyallwentonwiththeirdinners。Thenextdaythecountessagainappearedatmyside，amiableasever，butduringtheremainderofmystayIkeptfarfromeverypossibleallusiontopolitics。
TheTurkishambassador，SadoullahBey，wasakindlygentlemanwhowanderedabout，astheFrenchexpressivelysay，``likeadamndsoul。’’Somethingseemedtoweighuponhimheavilyandsteadily。AmoremelancholyhumanbeingIhaveneverseen，anditdidnotsurpriseme，afewyearslater，tobetoldthat，afteroneofthepalacerevolutionsatConstantinople，hehadbeenexecutedforplottingtheassassinationoftheSultan。
TheRussianambassador，M。deSabouroff，wasaveryagreeableman，andhisroomsweremadeattractivebythewonderfulcollectionofTanagrastatuetteswhichhehadbroughtfromGreece，wherehehadformerlybeenminister。Inonematterhewasespeciallyhelpfultome。
OnedayIreceivedfromWashingtonacipherdespatchinstructingmetoexertallmyinfluencetosecurethereleaseofMadame————，who，thoughmarriedtoaformerRussiansecretaryoflegation，wasthedaughterofanAmericaneminentinpoliticsanddiplomacy。Thecasewasveryserious。TheRussianwhohadmarriedthisestimableladyhadbeenconcernedinvariousshadytransactions，and，havinglefthiswifeandlittlechildreninParis，hadgonetoMunichinthehopeofcoveringupsomedoubtfulmatterswhichwerecomingtolight。
Whileonthiserrandhewasseizedandthrownintojailwhereuponhetelegraphedhiswifetocometohim。Hisidea，evidently，wasthatwhenshearrivedshealsowouldbeimprisoned，andthatherfamilywouldthenfeelforcedtointervenewiththemoneynecessarytogetthembothout。Thefirstpartoftheprogrammewentashehadexpected。Hiswife，onarrivinginMunich，wasatoncethrownintoprison，andbeganthencesendingtotheSecretaryofStateandtomethemostdistressinglettersandtelegrams。ShehadleftherlittlechildreninParis，andwasinagonyaboutthem。WiththeaidoftheRussianambassador，whoacknowledgedthathiscompatriotwasoneoftheworstwretchesinexistence，Iobtainedthereleaseoftheladyfromprisonafterlongnegotiations。
Unfortunately，Iwasobligedtosecurethatofherhusbandatthesametime;butashediednotlongafterward，hehadnoopportunitytodomuchmoreharm。
Oftheministersplenipotentiary，thechiefwasBaronNothombofBelgium，notedasthe``Belgianfatherofconstitutionalliberty。’’Hewasamostinterestingoldman，especiallydevotedtothememoryofmypredecessor，Bancroft，andthereforeverykindtome。Amongthereminiscenceswhichheseemedtoenjoygivingmeathisdinner—tableweremanyregardingTalleyrand，whomhehadpersonallyknown。
StillanotherfriendamongtheministerswasM。deRudhardt，whorepresentedBavaria。Heandhiswifewerecharming，andtheylittledreamedofthecatastropheawaitingthemwhenheshouldcrossBismarck’spath。
ThestoryofthisIshallrecountelsewhere。[15]
[15]SeechapteronBismarck。
YetanothergoodfriendwasHerrvonNostitz—Wallwitz，representativeofSaxony，whowasable，ononeoccasion，torenderarealservicetoAmericaneducation。
Twoorthreeyoungladies，oneofwhomisnowtheadmiredheadofoneoftheforemostAmericancollegesforwomen，werestudyingattheUniversityofLeipsic。I
hadgiventhemletterstosundryprofessorsthere，andnothingcouldbebetterthanthereportswhichreachedmeregardingtheirstudies，conduct，andsocialstanding。
Butonedaycameverydistressingtelegramsandletters，and，presently，theladiesthemselves。Acatastrophehadcome。AdecreehadgoneforthfromtheSaxonGovernmentatDresdenexpellingallwomenstudentsfromtheuniversity，andthesecountrywomenofminebeggedmetodowhatIcouldforthem。RememberingthatmySaxoncolleaguewasthebrotheroftheprimeministerofSaxony，Iatoncewenttohim。Onmypresentingthecase，heatfirstexpressedamazementattheideaofwomenbeingadmittedtothelecture—roomsofaGermanuniversity;butasIshowedhimsundryletters，especiallythosefromProfessorsGeorgCurtiusandEbers，regardingthesefairstudents，hisconservatismmeltedawayandhepresentlyenteredheartilyintomyview，theresultbeingthatthedecreewasmodifiedsothatallladystudentsthenintheuniversitywereallowedtoremainuntilthecloseoftheirstudies，butnonewonesweretobeadmittedafterward。Happily，allthishasbeenchanged，andtothat，astonearlyallotherGermanuniversities，womenarenowfreelyadmitted。
Veryamusingattimeswereexhibitionsofgentlesarcasmonthepartofsundryolddiplomatists。Theyhadlivedlong，hadseentheseamysideofpublicaffairs，andhadlosttheirillusions。Oneevening，ataballgivenbythevice—chancelloroftheempirewhichwasextremelysplendidandnolesstedious，myattentionwasdrawntotwoofthem。TherehadbeensomekindofabsurddemonstrationthatdayinoneoftheprincipalEuropeanparliaments，andcominguponmytwocolleagues，I
alludedtoit。
``Yes，’’saidBaronJauruofBrazil，``thatcomesofthegreatestlieprevalentinourtime——thetheorythatthemajorityofmankindareWISE;nowitisanabsolutefactwhichallhistoryteaches，andto—dayevenmorethanever，thatallmankindareFOOLS。’’``Whatyousayistrue，’’
repliedM。deQuade，theDanishminister，``butitisnottheWHOLEtruth:constitutionalgovernmentalsogoesonthetheorythatallmankindareGOOD;nowitisanabsolutefactthatallmankindarebad，utterlyBAD。’’``Yes，’’
saidJauru，``Iacceptyouramendment;mankindarefoolsandknaves。’’TothisIdemurredsomewhat，andquotedMr。Lincoln’sremark，``Youcanfoolsomeofthepeopleallthetime，andallofthepeoplesomeofthetime;
butyoucan’tfoolallthepeopleallthetime。’’
Thisrestoredtheirgoodhumor，andIleftthemsmilinglyponderingoverthisnuggetofWesternwisdom。
InterestingtomewasthecontrastbetweenmytwocolleaguesfromtheextremeOrient。ThenandsinceatBerlinIhaveknowntheJapaneseMinisterAoki。LikeallotherJapanesediplomaticrepresentativesIhavemet，whetherthereorelsewhere，hewasanexceedinglyaccomplishedman:atthefirstdinnergivenmeaftermyarrivalinBerlinhemadeanadmirablespeechinGerman，andcouldhavespokenjustasfluentlyandaccuratelyinFrenchorEnglish。
Ontheotherhand，LiFongPao，theChineserepresentative，wasamandarinwhosteadilyworehisChinesecostume，pigtailandall，andwho，thoughjolly，couldspeakonlythroughaninterpreterwhowasalmostasdifficulttounderstandastheministerhimself。
ThusfaritseemsthegeneralrulethatwhereastheJapanese，likecivilizednationsingeneral，trainmencarefullyforforeignserviceininternationallaw，modernlanguages，history，andthelike，theChinese，likeourselves，dolittle，ifanything，ofthekind。ButImayaddthatrecentlytherehavebeensomesymptomsofchangeontheirpart。OneofthemostadmirablespeechesduringthePeaceConferenceatTheHaguewasmadebyayoungandveryattractiveChineseattach。ItwasinidiomaticFrench;nothingcouldbemoreadmirableeitherasregardedmatterormanner;andmanyoftheoldermembersoftheconferencecameafterwardtocongratulatehimuponit。TheabilityshownbytheChineseMinisterWuatWashingtonwouldalsoseemtoindicatethatChinahaslearnedsomethingastothebestwayofmaintainingherinterestsabroad。
Thissuggestsanotherincident。Intheyear1880thenewspapersinformedusthatthewifeoftheChineseministeratBerlinhadjustsailedfromChinatojoinherhusband。Thematterseemedtoarousegeneralinterest，andtelegramsannouncedherarrivalatSuez，thenatMarseilles，thenatCologne，andfinallyatBerlin。Ontheeveningofherarrivalatcourtthediplomaticcorpswereassembled，awaitingherappearance。Presentlythegreatdoorsswungwide，andincametheChineseministerwithhiswife:heastalwartmandarininthefullattireofhisrank;sheagentlecreatureinanexceedinglyprettyChinesecostume，trippingalongonherlittlefeet，andbehindheralongarrayofsecretaries，interpreters，andthelike，manyinChineseattire，butsomeinEuropeancourtcostume。AfterallofushadbeendulypresentedtotheladybyhisChineseexcellency，hebroughthersecretariesandpresentedthemtohiscolleagues。Amongtheseyoungdiplomatistswasafine—lookingman，evidentlyaEuropean，inasuperbcourtcostumefroggedandbarredwithgoldlace。AsmyChinesecolleagueintroducedhimtomeinGerman，wecontinuedinthatlanguage，whensuddenlythissecretarysaidtomeinEnglish，``Mr。White，Idon’tseewhyweshouldbetalkinginGerman;IwaseducatedatRochesterUniversityunderyourfriend，PresidentAnderson，andIcomefromWaterlooinWesternNewYork。’’Hadhedroppedthroughtheceiling，Icouldhardlyhavebeenmoresurprised。
NeitherWaterloo，thoughathrivinglittletownupontheNewYorkCentralRailroadandnotfarfromthecityinwhichIhavemyselflived，norevenRochesterwithalltheaddedpowerofitsexcellentuniversity，seemedadequatetodevelopabeingsogorgeous。Onquestioninghim，Ifoundthat，havingbeengraduatedinAmerica，hehadgonetoChinawithcertainmissionaries，andhadthenbeentakenintotheChineseservice。ItgivesmeverygreatpleasuretosaythatatBerlin，St。Petersburg，andTheHague，whereIhaveoftenmethimsince，hehasprovedtobeathoroughlyintelligentandpatrioticman。FaithfultoChinawhilenotunmindfuloftheinterestsoftheUnitedStates，inonematterherenderedaverygreatservicetobothcountries。
Butadiplomaticrepresentativewhohasatasteforpublicaffairsmakesacquaintancesoutsidethediplomaticcorps，andislikelytofindhisrelationswiththeministersoftheGermancrownandwithmembersoftheparliamentveryinteresting。ThecharacterofGermanpublicmenisdeservedlyhigh，andadiplomatistfittorepresenthiscountryshouldbringallhisstudyandexperiencetobearinelicitinginformationlikelytobeusefultohiscountryfromtheseaswellasfromallothersortsandconditionsofmen。Myownacquaintanceamongthesewaslarge。IfindinmydiariesaccountsofconversationswithsuchmenasBismarck，Camphausen，Delbrck，Windthorst，Bennigsen，GeorgevonBunsen，Lasker，Treitschke，Gneist，andothers;buttotakethemuponeaftertheotherwouldrequirefartoomuchspace，andImustbecontenttojotdownwhatIreceivedfromthemwherever，inthecourseofthesereminiscences，itmayseempertinent。
CHAPTERXXXI
MENOFNOTEINBERLINANDELSEWHERE——1879—1881
MyacquaintanceatBerlinextendedintoregionswhichfewofmydiplomaticcolleaguesexplored，especiallyamongmembersoftheuniversityfacultyandvariousotherpersonseminentinscience，literature，andart。
Writingtheselines，IlookbackwithadmirationandaffectionuponthreegenerationsofBerlinprofessors:
thefirstduringmystudentdaysatthePrussiancapitalin1855—1856，thesecondduringmyserviceasminister，1879—1881，andthethirdduringmytermasambassador1897—1902。
Thesecondofthesegenerationsseemstomethemostremarkableofthethree。Itwasawonderfulbodyofmen。
AfewofthemIhadknownduringmystayinBerlinasastudent;andofthese，firstintheorderoftime，Lepsius，theforemostEgyptologistofthatperiod，whoselectureshadgreatlyinterestedme，andwhosekindlycharacteristicswerethedelightofallwhoknewhim。
ErnstCurtius，theeminentGreekscholarandhistorian，wasalsoveryfriendly。HewastheninthemidstofhisstudiesuponthefamousPergamonstatues，which，byskilfuldiplomacy，theGermanGovernmenthadobtainedfromtheTurkishauthoritiesinAsiaMinor，andbroughttotheBerlinMuseum。HewasalsoabsorbedintheexcavationsatOlympia，andaboveallinthesculpturesfoundthere。Onenightatcourthewasverymelancholy，andonmytryingtocheerhim，hetoldme，inaheartbrokentone，thatBismarckhadstoppedtheappropriationsfortheOlympiaresearches;buttowardtheendoftheeveningheagainsoughtme，hisfaceradiant，andwithgreatgleetoldmethatallwasnowright，thathehadseentheEmperor，andthatthenobleoldmonarchhadpromisedtoprovidefortheexcavationsfromhisownpurse。
StillanotherfriendwasRudolfvonGneist，themosteminentauthorityofhistimeuponRomanlawandtheEnglishconstitution。Hehadacted，inbehalfoftheEmperorWilliam，asumpirebetweentheUnitedStatesandGreatBritain，withreferencetothenorthwesternboundary，andhaddecidedinourfavor。Inrecognitionofhislabor，theAmericanGovernmentsentoveralargecollectionofvaluablebooksonAmericanhistory，includingvariouscollectionsofpublishedstatepapers;andthefirstdutyIeverdischargedasministerwastomakeaformalpresentationofthismassofbookstohim。Sobeganoneofmymostcherishedconnections。
Especiallyprizedbymewasasomewhatcloseacquaintancewiththetwomosteminentprofessorsofmodernhistorythenattheuniversity——VonSybelandDroysen。
Eachwasamanofgreatability。Oneday，afterIhadbeenreadingLanfrey’s``HistoiredeNapolon，’’whichIthenthought，andstillthink，oneofthemosteloquentandinstructivebooksofthenineteenthcentury，VonSybelhappenedtodropin，andIaskedhisopinionofit。Heanswered:``Itdoesnotdeservetobecalledahistory;itisarhapsody。’’Shortlyafterhehadleft，incameDroysen，andtohimIputthesamequestion，whenheheldupbothhandsandsaid:``Yes，thereisahistoryindeed！
Thatisaworkofgenius;itisoneofthebookswhichthrowabrightlightintoadarktime:thatbookwilllive。’’
ProfessorHermannGrimmwasthenattheclimaxofhisfame，andthegodsofhisidolatrywereGoetheandEmerson;butapparentlyhedidnotresembletheminsoaringabovethepettycomfortsandvexationsoflife。
Anyoneinvitinghimtodinewaslikelytoreceiveanansweraskinghowthedining—roomwaslighted——whetherbygas，oil，orwax;alsohowthelightswereplaced——
whetherhighorlow;andwhattheprincipaldishesweretobe:
andontheanswerdependedhisacceptanceordeclination。
Diningwithhimonenight，Iwasfascinatedbyhiswife;itseemedtomethatIhadneverseenawomanofsuchwonderfulandalmostweirdpowers:therewassomethingexquisitelybeautifulinhermannerandconversation;and，onmyafterwardspeakingofthistoanotherguest，heanswered:``Why，ofcourse;sheisthedaughterofGoethe’sBettina，towhomhewrotethe`LetterstoaChild。’’’
AnotherhistorianwasTreitshke，eminentalsoasamemberofparliament——amanwhoexercisedgreatpowerinvariousdirections，andwouldhavebeendelightfulbutforhisdeafness。Apistolmighthavebeenfiredbesidehim，andhewouldneverhaveknownit。Whereverhewas，hehadwithhimablockofpaperleavesandapencil，bymeansofwhichhecarriedonconversation;inparliamenthealwayshadathissideashorthand—writerwhotookdownthedebatesforhim。
SomeofthemostinterestinginformationwhichI
receivedregardinghistoricalandcurrentmattersinBerlinwasfromthebiologistDuBois—Reymond。HewasofHuguenotdescent，butwasperhapsthemostanti—GallicmaninGermany。DiscussingtheresultsoftheexpulsionoftheHuguenotsunderLouisXIV，thedetailshegavemeweremostinstructive。ShowingmethevaststrengthwhichtheHuguenotstransferredfromFrancetoGermany，hementionedsuchmenastheeminentlawyerSavigny，thegreatmerchantRaven，andamultitudeofothermenofgreatdistinction，who，likehimself，hadretainedtheirFrenchnames;andheaddedverymanyprominentpeopleofHuguenotdescentwhohadchangedtheirFrenchnamesintoGerman。Hethenreferredtoasimilaradvantagegiventovariousothercountries，andmadeamostpowerfulindictmentagainsttheintoleranceforwhichFrancehasbeenpayingsuchanenormouspriceduringmorethantwohundredyears。
Interestinginanotherwayweretwomeneminentinphysicalscience——HelmholtzandHoffmann。Meetingthemoneeveningatacourtfestivity，IwastoldbyHoffmannofanexperienceofhisinScotland。HehadarrivedinGlasgowlateonSaturdaynight，andonSundaymorningwenttocallonProfessorSirWilliamThomson，nowLordKelvin。Thedoor—bellwasansweredbyawomanservant，ofwhomHoffmannaskedifSirWilliamwasathome。Tothistheservantanswered，``Sir，hemostcertainlyisnot。’’Hoffmannthenasked，``CouldyoutellmewhereImightfindhim？’’Sheanswered，``Sir，youwillfindhimatchurch，whereYOUoughttobe。’’
MyacquaintancewithuniversitymenwasnotconfinedtoBerlin;atLeipsic，Halle，Giessen，Heidelberg，andelsewhere，Ialsofounddelightfulprofessorialcircles。Inmyfavoritefield，IwasespeciallystruckwiththehistorianOncken。Asalecturerhewasperfect;andIhaveoftenadvisedAmericanhistoricalstudentstopassasemester，ifnotmore，atGiessen，inordertostudyhispresentationofhistoricalsubjects。Astomanner，hewasthebestlectureronhistoryIheardinGermany;and，withtheexceptionofLaboulayeattheCollgedeFrance，SeelyeatEnglishCambridge，andGoldwinSmithatCornell，thebestIeverheardanywhere。
Especiallydelightfulweresundrymenofletters。OftheseIknewbestAuerbach，whosedelightful``Dorfgeschichten’’
weretheninfullfame。HehadbeenawarmpersonalfriendofBayardTaylor，andthisfriendshipI
inherited。ManywerethewalksandtalkswetooktogetherintheThiergarten，andheoftenlightedupmyapartmentwithhissunnytemper。Butoneday，ashecamein，returningfromhislongvacation，Isaidtohim:
``SoyouhavebeenhavingagreatjoyattheunveilingoftheSpinozastatueatTheHague。’’``Agreatjoy！’’hesaid。``Bewahre！farfromit;itwaswretched——
miserable。’’Iasked，``Howcouldthatbe？’’Heanswered，``Renan，KunoFischer，andmyselfwereinvitedtomakeaddressesattheunveilingofthestatue;butwhenwearrivedatthespot，wefoundthattheDutchCalvinistdomi—
niesandtheJewishrabbishadeachbeenpreachingtotheirflocksthatthejudgmentsofHeavenwouldfalluponthecityiftheerectionofastatuetosuchamonstrousatheistwerepermitted，andtheauthoritieshadtostationtroopstokeepthemobfromstoningusandpullingdownthestatue。Thinkofsuchachargeagainstthe`GottbetrunkenerMensch，’whogavenewproofsofGod’sexistence，whosawGodineverything！’’
AnotherliterarymanwhomIenjoyedmeetingwasJuliusRodenberg;his``ReminiscencesofBerlin，’’whichIhavereadsince，seemtomethebestoftheirkind。
Ialsocametoknowvariousartists，oneofthembeingespeciallygenial。Ourfirstmeetingwasshortlyaftermyarrival，atalargedinner，where，asthevariousguestswerebroughtuptobeintroducedtothenewAmericanminister，therewasfinallypresentedalittle，gentle，modestmanas``HerrKnaus。’’Ineverdreamedofhisbeingtheforemostgenre—painterinEurope;and，asonemustsaysomething，Isaid，``Youare，perhaps，arelativeofthefamouspainter。’’Atthisheblusheddeeply，seemedgreatlyembarrassed，andsaid:``ApainterIam;famous，Idon’tknow。（Malerbinich;berhmt，dasweissichnicht。）’’
Sobeganafriendshipwhichhaslastedfromthatdaytothis。Isawthebeginning，middle，andendofsomeofhismostbeautifulpictures，and，aboveall，ofthe``HinterdenCoulissen，’’whichconveysamostremarkablephilosophicalandpsychologicallesson，showinghownearmirthliestotears。Itisthemostcomicandmostpatheticofpictures。IhadhopedthatitwouldgotoAmerica;but，afterbeingexhibitedtothedelightofallpartsofGermany，itwasboughtfortheroyalgalleryatDresden。
VeryfriendlyalsowasCarlBecker。His``CoronationofUlrichvonHutten，’’nowatCologne，ofwhichheallowedmetohaveacopytaken，hasalwaysseemedtomeanadmirablepieceofhistoricalpainting。Initthereisaportraitofasurlycardinal—bishop;andonce，duringaneveningatBecker’shouse，havingnoticedastudyforthisbishop’shead，Ireferredtoit，whenhesaid:``Yes，thatbishopissimplythesacristanofanoldchurchinVenice，andcertainlythemostdignifiedecclesiasticIhaveeverseen。’’ThemusicalsoiresatBecker’sbeautifulapartmentswereamongthedelightsofmystayboththenandduringmymorerecentembassy。
Verydelightfullydwellinmymemory，also，someeveningsatthepalace，when，afterthemainceremonieswereover，Knaus，Becker，andAuerbachwanderedwithmethroughthemoredistantapartmentsandgalleries，pointingoutthebeautiesandcharacteristicsofvariousoldportraitsandpictures。Inonelonggallerylinedwiththeportraitsofbrideswho，duringthelastthreecenturies，hadbeenbroughtintothefamilyofHohenzollern，welingeredlong。
ThenbeganalsomyfriendshipwithAntonvonWerner。
HehadbeenpresentattheproclamationoftheEmperorWilliamIinthegreat``HallofMirrors’’atVersailles，byexpressinvitation，inorderthathemightpreparehisfamouspaintingofthathistoricscene。IaskedhimwhethertheinscriptionontheshieldinthecorniceoftheGaleriedesGlaces，``PassageduRhin，’’whichglorifiedoneoftheworstoutragescommittedbyLouisXIVuponGermany，wasreallyintheplacewhereitisrepresentedinhispicture。Hesaidthatitwas。Itseemedadivineprophecyofretribution。
ThegreatestgeniusinallmodernGermanart——AdolfMenzel——Icametoknowunderrathercuriouscircumstances。
Hewasalittleman，notmorethanfourfeethigh，withanenormoushead，asmaybeseenbyhisbustintheBerlinMuseum。Onbeingpresentedtohimduringaneveningatcourt，Isaidtohim:``HerrProfessor，inAmericaIamateacherofhistory;andofallworksI
haveeverseenonthehistoryofFredericktheGreat，yourillustrationsofKugler’shistoryhavetaughtmemost。’’
Thiswasstrictlytrue;fortherearenomorestrikingworksofgeniusintheirkindthanthoseengravingswhichthrowafloodoflightintothatwonderfulperiod。Atthisheinvitedmetovisithisstudio，whichafewdayslaterI
did，andthenhadaremarkableexhibitionofsomeofhismostcuriouscharacteristics。
Enteringtheroom，Isaw，justattheright，alargepicture，finelypainted，representingagroupofFrederick’sgenerals，andinthemidstofthemFrederickhimself，merelyoutlinedinchalk。Isaid，``Thereisapicturenearlyfinished。’’Menzelanswered，``No;itisnotfinishedandneverwillbe。’’Iasked，``Whynot？’’Hesaid，``Idon’tdenythatthereissomegoodpaintinginit。ButitisontheeveofthebattleofLeuthen;itistheconsultationofFredericktheGreatwithhisgeneralsjustbeforethatterriblebattle;andmendon’tlooklikethatjustbeforeastruggleinwhichtheveryexistenceoftheircountryisatstake，andinwhichtheyknowthatmostofthemmustlaydowntheirlives。’’
Wethenpassedontoanother。ThisrepresentedthegreatGensd’ArmesChurchatBerlin;atthesideofit，piledonscaffoldings，wereanumberofcoffinsalldeckedwithwreathsandflowers;andintheforegroundacrowdofbeholderswonderfullypainted。Allwasfinishedexceptonelittlecorner;andIsaid，``Hereisonewhichyouwillfinish。’’Hesaid，``No;never。ThatrepresentsthefuneraloftheRevolutionistskilledhereintheuprisingof1848。Uptothispoint’’——andheputhisfingerontheunfinishedcorner——``Ibelievedinit;butwhenIarrivedatthispoint，Isaidtomyself，`No;nothinggoodcancomeoutofthatsortofthing;Germanyisnottobemadebystreetfights。’Ishallneverfinishit。’’
Wepassedontoanother。Thiswasfinished。Itrepresentedthewell—knownsceneofthegreatFrederickblunderinginupontheAustrianbivouacatthecastleofLissa，whenhenarrowlyescapedcapture。Isaidtohim，``Thereatleastisapicturewhichisfinished。’’``Yes，’’hesaid;
``butthemanwhoordereditwillnevergetit。’’Isawthattherewasastoryinvolved，andasked，``Howisthat？’’Heanswered，``ThatpicturewaspaintedontheorderoftheDukeofRatibor，whoownsthecastle。Whenitwasfinishedhecametoseeit，butclearlythoughtittooquiet。Whathewantedwasevidentlysomethinginthebig，melodramaticstyle。Isaidnothing;butmeetingmeafewdaysafterward，hesaid，`Whydon’tyousendmemypicture？’`No，’Isaid;`SereneHighness，thatpictureismine。’`No，saidhe;`youpainteditforme;itismine。’`No，’saidI;`Ishallkeepit。’HisHighnessshallneverhaveit。’’
Myprincipalrecreationwasinexcursionstohistoricalplaces。OldstudiesofGermanhistoryhadstimulatedatasteforthem，anditwasadelighttoleaveBerlinonSaturdayandstayinoneofthesetownsoverSunday。
FrequentlymyguidewasFrederickKapp，athoughtfulhistorianandoneofthemostcharmingofmen。
Alongerpilgrimagewasmadetothemystery—playatOberammergau。Therewasanimmensecrowd;and，asusual，thoseintheopen，infrontofourbox，weredrenchedwithrain，asindeedweremanyoftheplayersonthestage。Ihad``cometoscoff，butremainedtopray。’’
TherewasonescenewhereIhadexpectedalaugh——
namely，whereJonahwalksupoutofthewhale’sbelly。
Butwhenitarrivedweallremainedsolemn。Itwasreallyimpressive。Wesattherefromnineinthemorninguntilhalf—pasttwelve，andthenfromhalf—pastoneuntilabouthalf—pastfour，underaspellwhichbanishedfatigue。ThemainpointwasthattheactorsBELIEVED
inwhattheyrepresented;therewasnothinginitlikethatvague，wearisomeexhibitionof``religiosity’’
which，inspiteofitswonderfuloverture，gaveme，someyearsafterward，apainfuldisenchantment——the``Parsifal’’
atBayreuth。
AtthecloseofthePassionPlay，Isoughtoutsomeoftheprincipalactors，andfoundthemkindlyandinteresting。
TotheChristusIgaveacommissionforacarvedpicture—frame，andthisheafterwardexecutedbeautifully。
WiththeJudas，whowasbyfarthebestactorinthewholeperformance，Ibecamestillbetteracquainted。Visitinghisworkshop，afterorderingofhimtwocarvedstatuettesI
saidtohim:``Youcertainlyoughttohaveadoublesalary，astheJudashadinthemiracle—playsofthemiddleages;
thiswasthoughtduehimonaccountoftheinjurydonetohischaracterbyhistakingthatpart。’’AtthistheOberammergauJudassmiledpleasantly，andsaid:``No;
Iamcontenttoshareequallywiththeothers;butthesamefeelingtowardtheJudasstillexists’’;andhethentoldmethefollowingstory:Afewweeksbefore，whilehewasworkingathiscarving—bench，thedoorofhisworkshopopened，andapeasantwomanfromthemountainscamein，stoodstill，andgazedathimintently。Onhisaskingherwhatshewanted，shereplied:``Isawyouintheplayyesterday;Iwishedtolookatyouagain;youlooksolikemyhusband。Heisdead。HE，TOO，WASAVERYBAD
MAN。’’
Occasionally，underleaveofabsencefromtheStateDepartment，Iwasabletomakemoredistantexcursions，andfirstofallintoFrance。ThePresidentduringoneofthesevisitswasM。Grvy。SomeyearsbeforeIhadheardhimargueacaseincourtwithmuchability;butnow，onmypresentationtohimatthepalaceofthelyse，hedweltlessablyontherelationsoftheUnitedStateswithFrance，andsoonfelluponthequestionoftrade，saying，inratherareproachfulway，``Vousnousinondezdevosproduits。’’
TothisIcouldonlyanswerthatthisinundationofAmericanproductswouldsurelybeofmutualbenefittobothnations，andheratherslowlyassented。
Muchmoreinterestingtomewashisministerofforeignaffairs，Barthlemy—Saint—Hilaire，ascholar，astatesman，andamanofnoblecharacter。WetalkedfirstofmyintendedjourneytothesouthofFrance;andonmytellinghimthatIhadsentmyeldestsontotravelthere，forthereasonthatatOrange，Arles，Nmes，andthelike，abetterideaofRomanpowercanbeobtainedthaninItalyitself，helaunchedoutonthatthememostinstructively。
Theconversationhavingturnedtowardpolitics，hespokemuchofBismarckandMoltke，pronouncingthenameofthelatterinonesyllable。HesaidthatBismarckwasverykindpersonallytoThiersduringtheterriblenegotiations;thatifBismarckcouldhavehadhiswayhewouldhaveaskedalargerindemnity，——say，sevenmilliards，——andwouldhaveleftAlsace—LorrainetoFrance;