HenextinquiredwhereIwasgoingandwhatIhadhadfordinner；
　　andthen，withouttheleasttransition，'C'ESTBIEN，'headded，'comealong。'Andheandhisson，withoutanotherword，turnedofftothenextchestnut-treebutone，whichtheysettopruning。ThethinghadpassedofmoresimplythanIhoped。Hewasagrave，respectableman；andhisunfriendlyvoicedidnotimplythathethoughthewasspeakingtoacriminal，butmerelytoaninferior。
　　Iwassoonontheroad，nibblingacakeofchocolateandseriouslyoccupiedwithacaseofconscience。WasItopayformynight'slodging？Ihadsleptill，thebedwasfulloffleasintheshapeofants，therewasnowaterintheroom，theverydawnhadneglectedtocallmeinthemorning。Imighthavemissedatrain，hadtherebeenanyintheneighbourhoodtocatch。Clearly，Iwasdissatisfiedwithmyentertainment；andIdecidedIshouldnotpayunlessImetabeggar。
　　Thevalleylookedevenlovelierbymorning；andsoontheroaddescendedtotheleveloftheriver。Here，inaplacewheremanystraightandprosperouschestnutsstoodtogether，makinganaisleuponaswardedterrace，ImademymorningtoiletteinthewateroftheTarn。Itwasmarvellouslyclear，thrillinglycool；thesoap-
　　sudsdisappearedasifbymagicintheswiftcurrent，andthewhitebouldersgaveoneamodelforcleanliness。TowashinoneofGod'sriversintheopenairseemstomeasortofcheerfulsolemnityorsemi-paganactofworship。Todabbleamongdishesinabedroommayperhapsmakecleanthebody；buttheimaginationtakesnoshareinsuchacleansing。Iwentonwithalightandpeacefulheart，andsangpsalmstothespiritualearasIadvanced。
　　Suddenlyupcameanoldwoman，whopoint-blankdemandedalms。
　　'Good，'thoughtI；'herecomesthewaiterwiththebill。'
　　AndIpaidformynight'slodgingonthespot。Takeithowyouplease，butthiswasthefirstandthelastbeggarthatImetwithduringallmytour。
　　AsteportwofartherIwasovertakenbyanoldmaninabrownnightcap，clear-eyed，weather-beaten，withafaintexcitedsmile。
　　Alittlegirlfollowedhim，drivingtwosheepandagoat；butshekeptinourwake，whiletheoldmanwalkedbesidemeandtalkedaboutthemorningandthevalley。Itwasnotmuchpastsix；andforhealthypeoplewhohavesleptenough，thatisanhourofexpansionandofopenandtrustfultalk。
　　'CONNAISSEZ-VOUSLESEIGNEUR？'hesaidatlength。
　　IaskedhimwhatSeigneurhemeant；butheonlyrepeatedthequestionwithmoreemphasisandalookinhiseyesdenotinghopeandinterest。
　　'Ah，'saidI，pointingupwards，'Iunderstandyounow。Yes，IknowHim；Heisthebestofacquaintances。'
　　Theoldmansaidhewasdelighted。'Hold，'headded，strikinghisbosom；'itmakesmehappyhere。'TherewereafewwhoknewtheLordinthesevalleys，hewentontotellme；notmany，butafew。
　　'Manyarecalled。'hequoted，'andfewchosen。'
　　'Myfather，'saidI，'itisnoteasytosaywhoknowtheLord；anditisnoneofourbusiness。ProtestantsandCatholics，andeventhosewhoworshipstones，mayknowHimandbeknownbyHim；forHehasmadeall。'
　　IdidnotknowIwassogoodapreacher。
　　TheoldmanassuredmehethoughtasIdid，andrepeatedhisexpressionsofpleasureatmeetingme。'Wearesofew，'hesaid。
　　'TheycallusMoravianshere；butdownintheDepartmentofGard，wheretherearealsoagoodnumber，theyarecalledDerbists，afteranEnglishpastor。'
　　IbegantounderstandthatIwasfiguring，inquestionabletaste，asamemberofsomesecttomeunknown；butIwasmorepleasedwiththepleasureofmycompanionthanembarrassedbymyownequivocalposition。Indeed，Icanseenodishonestyinnotavowingadifference；andespeciallyinthesehighmatters，wherewehaveallasufficientassurancethat，whoevermaybeinthewrong，weourselvesarenotcompletelyintheright。Thetruthismuchtalkedabout；butthisoldmaninabrownnightcapshowedhimselfsosimple，sweet，andfriendly，thatIamnotunwillingtoprofessmyselfhisconvert。Hewas，asamatteroffact，aPlymouthBrother。OfwhatthatinvolvesinthewayofdoctrineIhavenoideanorthetimetoinformmyself；butIknowrightwellthatweareallembarkeduponatroublesomeworld，thechildrenofoneFather，strivinginmanyessentialpointstodoandtobecomethesame。Andalthoughitwassomewhatinamistakethatheshookhandswithmesooftenandshowedhimselfsoreadytoreceivemywords，thatwasamistakeofthetruth-findingsort。Forcharitybeginsblindfold；andonlythroughaseriesofsimilarmisapprehensionsrisesatlengthintoasettledprincipleofloveandpatience，andafirmbeliefinallourfellow-men。IfI
　　deceivedthisgoodoldman，inthelikemannerIwouldwillinglygoontodeceiveothers。Andifeveratlength，outofourseparateandsadways，weshouldallcometogetherintoonecommonhouse，I
　　haveahope，towhichIclingdearly，thatmymountainPlymouthBrotherwillhastentoshakehandswithmeagain。
　　Thus，talkinglikeChristianandFaithfulbytheway，heandIcamedownuponahamletbytheTarn。Itwasbutahumbleplace，calledLaVernede，withlessthanadozenhouses，andaProtestantchapelonaknoll。Herehedwelt；andhere，attheinn，Iorderedmybreakfast。Theinnwaskeptbyanagreeableyoungman，astone-
　　breakerontheroad，andhissister，aprettyandengaginggirl。
　　Thevillageschoolmasterdroppedintospeakwiththestranger。
　　AndthesewereallProtestants-afactwhichpleasedmemorethanIshouldhaveexpected；and，whatpleasedmestillmore，theyseemedalluprightandsimplepeople。ThePlymouthBrotherhungroundmewithasortofyearninginterest，andreturnedatleastthricetomakesureIwasenjoyingmymeal。Hisbehaviourtouchedmedeeplyatthetime，andevennowmovesmeinrecollection。Hefearedtointrude，buthewouldnotwillinglyforegoonemomentofmysociety；andheseemedneverwearyofshakingmebythehand。
　　Whenalltheresthaddriftedofftotheirday'swork，Isatfornearhalfanhourwiththeyoungmistressofthehouse，whotalkedpleasantlyoverherseamofthechestnutharvest，andthebeautiesoftheTarn，andoldfamilyaffections，brokenupwhenyoungfolkgofromhome，yetstillsubsisting。Hers，Iamsure，wasasweetnature，withacountryplainnessandmuchdelicacyunderneath；andhewhotakeshertohisheartwilldoubtlessbeafortunateyoungman。
　　ThevalleybelowLaVernedepleasedmemoreandmoreasIwentforward。Nowthehillsapproachedfromeitherhand，nakedandcrumbling，andwalledintheriverbetweencliffs；andnowthevalleywidenedandbecamegreen。TheroadledmepasttheoldcastleofMiralonasteep；pastabattlementedmonastery，longsincebrokenupandturnedintoachurchandparsonage；andpastaclusterofblackroofs，thevillageofCocures，sittingamongvineyards，andmeadows，andorchardsthickwithredapples，andwhere，alongthehighway，theywereknockingdownwalnutsfromtheroadsidetrees，andgatheringtheminsacksandbaskets。Thehills，howevermuchthevalemightopen，werestilltallandbare，withcliffybattlementsandhereandthereapointedsummit；andtheTarnstillrattledthroughthestoneswithamountainnoise。I
　　hadbeenled，bybagmenofapicturesqueturnofmind，toexpectahorrificcountryaftertheheartofByron；buttomyScottisheyesitseemedsmilingandplentiful，astheweatherstillgaveanimpressionofhighsummertomyScottishbody；althoughthechestnutswerealreadypickedoutbytheautumn，andthepoplars，thatherebegantominglewiththem，hadturnedintopalegoldagainsttheapproachofwinter。
　　Therewassomethinginthislandscape，smilingalthoughwild，thatexplainedtomethespiritoftheSouthernCovenanters。Thosewhotooktothehillsforconscience'sakeinScotlandhadallgloomyandbedevilledthoughts；foroncethattheyreceivedGod'scomforttheywouldbetwiceengagedwithSatan；buttheCamisardshadonlybrightandsupportingvisions。Theydealtmuchmoreinblood，bothgivenandtaken；yetIfindnoobsessionoftheEvilOneintheirrecords。Withalightconscience，theypursuedtheirlifeintheseroughtimesandcircumstances。ThesoulofSeguier，letusnotforget，waslikeagarden。TheyknewtheywereonGod'sside，withaknowledgethathasnoparallelamongtheScots；fortheScots，althoughtheymightbecertainofthecause，couldneverrestconfidentoftheperson。
　　'Weflew，'saysoneoldCamisard，'whenweheardthesoundofpsalm-singing，weflewasifwithwings。Wefeltwithinusananimatingardour，atransportingdesire。Thefeelingcannotbeexpressedinwords。Itisathingthatmusthavebeenexperiencedtobeunderstood。Howeverwearywemightbe，wethoughtnomoreofourweariness，andgrewlightsosoonasthepsalmsfelluponourears。'
　　ThevalleyoftheTarnandthepeoplewhomImetatLaVernedenotonlyexplaintomethispassage，butthetwentyyearsofsufferingwhichthose，whoweresostiffandsobloodywhenoncetheybetookthemselvestowar，enduredwiththemeeknessofchildrenandtheconstancyofsaintsandpeasants。
　　FLORAC
　　ONabranchoftheTarnstandsFlorac，theseatofasub-
　　prefecture，withanoldcastle，analleyofplanes，manyquaintstreet-corners，andalivefountainwellingfromthehill。Itisnotable，besides，forhandsomewomen，andasoneofthetwocapitals，Alaisbeingtheother，ofthecountryoftheCamisards。
　　Thelandlordoftheinntookme，afterIhadeaten，toanadjoiningcafe，whereI，orrathermyjourney，becamethetopicoftheafternoon。Everyonehadsomesuggestionformyguidance；andthesub-prefectorialmapwasfetchedfromthesub-prefectureitself，andmuchthumbedamongcoffee-cupsandglassesofliqueur。MostofthesekindadviserswereProtestant，thoughIobservedthatProtestantandCatholicintermingledinaveryeasymanner；anditsurprisedmetoseewhatalivelymemorystillsubsistedofthereligiouswar。Amongthehillsofthesouth-west，byMauchline，Cumnock，orCarsphairn，inisolatedfarmsorinthemanse，seriousPresbyterianpeoplestillrecallthedaysofthegreatpersecution，andthegravesoflocalmartyrsarestillpiouslyregarded。Butintownsandamongtheso-calledbetterclasses，Ifearthattheseolddoingshavebecomeanidletale。IfyoumetamixedcompanyintheKing'sArmsatWigton，itisnotlikelythatthetalkwouldrunonCovenanters。Nay，atMuirkirkofGlenluce，Ifoundthebeadle'swifehadnotsomuchasheardofProphetPeden。ButtheseCevenolswereproudoftheirancestorsinquiteanothersense；thewarwastheirchosentopic；itsexploitsweretheirownpatentofnobility；
　　andwhereamanoraracehashadbutoneadventure，andthatheroic，wemustexpectandpardonsomeprolixityofreference。
　　Theytoldmethecountrywasstillfulloflegendshithertouncollected；IheardfromthemaboutCavalier'sdescendants-notdirectdescendants，beitunderstood，butonlycousinsornephews-
　　whowerestillprosperouspeopleinthesceneoftheboy-general'sexploits；andonefarmerhadseenthebonesofoldcombatantsdugupintotheairofanafternooninthenineteenthcentury，inafieldwheretheancestorshadfought，andthegreat-grandchildrenwerepeaceablyditching。
　　LaterinthedayoneoftheProtestantpastorswassogoodastovisitme:ayoungman，intelligentandpolite，withwhomIpassedanhourortwointalk。Florac，hetoldme，ispartProtestant，partCatholic；andthedifferenceinreligionisusuallydoubledbyadifferenceinpolitics。Youmayjudgeofmysurprise，comingasIdidfromsuchababblingpurgatorialPolandofaplaceasMonastier，whenIlearnedthatthepopulationlivedtogetheronveryquietterms；andtherewasevenanexchangeofhospitalitiesbetweenhouseholdsthusdoublyseparated。BlackCamisardandWhiteCamisard，militiamanandMiqueletanddragoon，ProtestantprophetandCatholiccadetoftheWhiteCross，theyhadallbeensabringandshooting，burning，pillaging，andmurdering，theirheartshotwithindignantpassion；andhere，afterahundredandseventyyears，ProtestantisstillProtestant，CatholicstillCatholic，inmutualtolerationandmildamityoflife。Buttheraceofman，likethatindomitablenaturewhenceitsprang，hasmedicatingvirtuesofitsown；theyearsandseasonsbringvariousharvests；
　　thesunreturnsaftertherain；andmankindoutlivessecularanimosities，asasinglemanawakensfromthepassionsofaday。
　　Wejudgeourancestorsfromamoredivineposition；andthedustbeingalittlelaidwithseveralcenturies，wecanseebothsidesadornedwithhumanvirtuesandfightingwithashowofright。
　　Ihaveneverthoughtiteasytobejust，andfinditdailyevenharderthanIthought。IownImettheseProtestantswithadelightandasenseofcominghome。Iwasaccustomedtospeaktheirlanguage，inanotheranddeepersenseofthewordthanthatwhichdistinguishesbetweenFrenchandEnglish；forthetrueBabelisadivergenceuponmorals。AndhenceIcouldholdmorefreecommunicationwiththeProtestants，andjudgethemmorejustly，thantheCatholics。FatherApollinarismaypairoffwithmymountainPlymouthBrotherastwoguilelessanddevoutoldmen；yetIaskmyselfifIhadasreadyafeelingforthevirtuesoftheTrappist；or，hadIbeenaCatholic，ifIshouldhavefeltsowarmlytothedissenterofLaVernede。WiththefirstIwasontermsofmereforbearance；butwiththeother，althoughonlyonamisunderstandingandbykeepingonselectedpoints，itwasstillpossibletoholdconverseandexchangesomehonestthoughts。Inthisworldofimperfectionwegladlywelcomeevenpartialintimacies。Andifwefindbutonetowhomwecanspeakoutofourheartfreely，withwhomwecanwalkinloveandsimplicitywithoutdissimulation，wehavenogroundofquarrelwiththeworldorGod。
　　INTHEVALLEYOFTHEMIMENTE
　　ONTuesday，1stOctober，weleftFloraclateintheafternoon，atireddonkeyandtireddonkey-driver。AlittlewayuptheTarnon，acoveredbridgeofwoodintroducedusintothevalleyoftheMimente。Steeprockyredmountainsoverhungthestream；greatoaksandchestnutsgrewupontheslopesorinstonyterraces；hereandtherewasaredfieldofmilletorafewapple-treesstuddedwithredapples；andtheroadpassedhardbytwoblackhamlets，onewithanoldcastleatoptopleasetheheartofthetourist。
　　Itwasdifficulthereagaintofindaspotfitformyencampment。
　　Evenundertheoaksandchestnutsthegroundhadnotonlyaveryrapidslope，butwasheapedwithloosestones；andwheretherewasnotimberthehillsdescendedtothestreaminaredprecipicetuftedwithheather。Thesunhadleftthehighestpeakinfrontofme，andthevalleywasfullofthelowingsoundofherdsmen'shornsastheyrecalledtheflocksintothestable，whenIspiedabightofmeadowsomewaybelowtheroadwayinanangleoftheriver。
　　ThitherIdescended，and，tyingModestineprovisionallytoatree，proceededtoinvestigatetheneighbourhood。Agreypearlyeveningshadowfilledtheglen；objectsatalittledistancegrewindistinctandmeltedbafflinglyintoeachother；andthedarknesswasrisingsteadilylikeanexhalation。Iapproachedagreatoakwhichgrewinthemeadow，hardbytheriver'sbrink；whentomydisgustthevoicesofchildrenfelluponmyear，andIbeheldahouseroundtheangleontheotherbank。Ihadhalfamindtopackandbegoneagain，butthegrowingdarknessmovedmetoremain。I
　　hadonlytomakenonoiseuntilthenightwasfairlycome，andtrusttothedawntocallmeearlyinthemorning。Butitwashardtobeannoyedbyneighboursinsuchagreathotel。
　　Ahollowunderneaththeoakwasmybed。BeforeIhadfedModestineandarrangedmysack，threestarswerealreadybrightlyshining，andtheotherswerebeginningdimlytoappear。Islippeddowntotheriver，whichlookedveryblackamongitsrocks，tofillmycan；
　　anddinedwithagoodappetiteinthedark，forIscrupledtolightalanternwhilesonearahouse。Themoon，whichIhadseenapallidcrescentallafternoon，faintlyilluminatedthesummitofthehills，butnotarayfellintothebottomoftheglenwhereI
　　waslying。Theoakrosebeforemelikeapillarofdarkness；andoverheadtheheartsomestarsweresetinthefaceofthenight。Nooneknowsthestarswhohasnotslept，astheFrenchhappilyputit，ALABELLEETOILE。Hemayknowalltheirnamesanddistancesandmagnitudes，andyetbeignorantofwhataloneconcernsmankind，-theirsereneandgladsomeinfluenceonthemind。Thegreaterpartofpoetryisaboutthestars；andveryjustly，fortheyarethemselvesthemostclassicalofpoets。Thesesamefar-awayworlds，sprinkledliketapersorshakentogetherlikeadiamonddustuponthesky，hadlookednototherwisetoRolandorCavalier，when，inthewordsofthelatter，theyhad'noothertentbutthesky，andnootherbedthanmymotherearth。'
　　Allnightastrongwindblewupthevalley，andtheacornsfellpatteringovermefromtheoak。Yet，onthisfirstnightofOctober，theairwasasmildasMay，andIsleptwiththefurthrownback。
　　Iwasmuchdisturbedbythebarkingofadog，ananimalthatIfearmorethananywolf。Adogisvastlybraver，andisbesidessupportedbythesenseofduty。Ifyoukillawolf，youmeetwithencouragementandpraise；butifyoukilladog，thesacredrightsofpropertyandthedomesticaffectionscomeclamouringroundyouforredress。Attheendofafaggingday，thesharpcruelnoteofadog'sbarkisinitselfakeenannoyance；andtoatramplikemyself，herepresentsthesedentaryandrespectableworldinitsmosthostileform。Thereissomethingoftheclergymanorthelawyeraboutthisengaginganimal；andifhewerenotamenabletostones，theboldestmanwouldshrinkfromtravellingafoot。I
　　respectdogsmuchinthedomesticcircle；butonthehighway，orsleepingafield，Ibothdetestandfearthem。
　　IwaswakenednextmorningWednesday，October2ndbythesamedog-forIknewhisbark-makingachargedownthebank，andthen，seeingmesitup，retreatingagainwithgreatalacrity。Thestarswerenotyetquiteextinguished。Theheavenwasofthatenchantingmildgrey-blueoftheearlymorn。Astillclearlightbegantofall，andthetreesonthehillsidewereoutlinedsharplyagainstthesky。Thewindhadveeredmoretothenorth，andnolongerreachedmeintheglen；butasIwasgoingonwithmypreparations，itdroveawhitecloudveryswiftlyoverthehill-top；andlookingup，Iwassurprisedtoseetheclouddyedwithgold。Inthesehighregionsoftheair，thesunwasalreadyshiningasatnoon。Ifonlythecloudstravelledhighenough，weshouldseethesamethingallnightlong。Foritisalwaysdaylightinthefieldsofspace。
　　AsIbegantogoupthevalley，adraughtofwindcamedownitoutoftheseatofthesunrise，althoughthecloudscontinuedtorunoverheadinanalmostcontrarydirection。Afewstepsfarther，andIsawawholehillsidegildedwiththesun；andstillalittlebeyond，betweentwopeaks，acentreofdazzlingbrilliancyappearedfloatinginthesky，andIwasoncemorefacetofacewiththebigbonfirethatoccupiesthekernelofoursystem。
　　Imetbutonehumanbeingthatforenoon，adarkmilitary-lookingwayfarer，whocarriedagame-bagonabaldric；buthemadearemarkthatseemsworthyofrecord。ForwhenIaskedhimifhewereProtestantorCatholic-
　　'Oh，'saidhe，'Imakenoshameofmyreligion。IamaCatholic。'
　　Hemadenoshameofit!Thephraseisapieceofnaturalstatistics；foritisthelanguageofoneinaminority。IthoughtwithasmileofBavileandhisdragoons，andhowyoumayriderough-shodoverareligionforacentury，andleaveitonlythemorelivelyforthefriction。IrelandisstillCatholic；theCevennesstillProtestant。Itisnotabasketfuloflaw-papers，northehoofsandpistol-buttsofaregimentofhorse，thatcanchangeonetittleofaploughman'sthoughts。Outdoorrusticpeoplehavenotmanyideas，butsuchastheyhavearehardyplants，andthriveflourishinglyinpersecution。Onewhohasgrownalongwhileinthesweatoflaboriousnoons，andunderthestarsatnight，afrequenterofhillsandforests，anoldhonestcountryman，has，intheend，asenseofcommunionwiththepowersoftheuniverse，andamicablerelationstowardshisGod。LikemymountainPlymouthBrother，heknowstheLord。Hisreligiondoesnotreposeuponachoiceoflogic；itisthepoetryoftheman'sexperience，thephilosophyofthehistoryofhislife。God，likeagreatpower，likeagreatshiningsun，hasappearedtothissimplefellowinthecourseofyears，andbecomethegroundandessenceofhisleastreflections；andyoumaychangecreedsanddogmasbyauthority，orproclaimanewreligionwiththesoundoftrumpets，ifyouwill；buthereisamanwhohashisownthoughts，andwillstubbornlyadheretothemingoodandevil。HeisaCatholic，aProtestant，oraPlymouthBrother，inthesameindefeasiblesensethatamanisnotawoman，orawomannotaman。Forhecouldnotvaryfromhisfaith，unlesshecoulderadicateallmemoryofthepast，and，inastrictandnotaconventionalmeaning，changehismind。
　　THEHEARTOFTHECOUNTRY
　　IWASnowdrawingneartoCassagnas，aclusterofblackroofsuponthehillside，inthiswildvalley，amongchestnutgardens，andlookeduponintheclearairbymanyrockypeaks。TheroadalongtheMimenteisyetnew，norhavethemountaineersrecoveredtheirsurprisewhenthefirstcartarrivedatCassagnas。Butalthoughitlaythusapartfromthecurrentofmen'sbusiness，thishamlethadalreadymadeafigureinthehistoryofFrance。Hardby，incavernsofthemountain，wasoneofthefivearsenalsoftheCamisards；wheretheylaidupclothesandcornandarmsagainstnecessity，forgedbayonetsandsabres，andmadethemselvesgunpowderwithwillowcharcoalandsaltpetreboiledinkettles。Tothesamecaves，amidthismultifariousindustry，thesickandwoundedwerebroughtuptoheal；andtheretheywerevisitedbythetwosurgeons，ChabrierandTavan，andsecretlynursedbywomenoftheneighbourhood。
　　OfthefivelegionsintowhichtheCamisardsweredivided，itwastheoldestandthemostobscurethathaditsmagazinesbyCassagnas。ThiswasthebandofSpiritSeguier；menwhohadjoinedtheirvoiceswithhisinthe68thPsalmastheymarcheddownbynightonthearchpriestoftheCevennes。Seguier，promotedtoheaven，wassucceededbySalomonCouderc，whomCavaliertreatsinhismemoirsaschaplain-generaltothewholearmyoftheCamisards。
　　Hewasaprophet；agreatreaderoftheheart，whoadmittedpeopletothesacramentorrefusedthem，by'intensivelyviewingeveryman'betweentheeyes；andhadthemostoftheScripturesoffbyrote。Andthiswassurelyhappy；sinceinasurpriseinAugust1703，helosthismule，hisportfolios，andhisBible。Itisonlystrangethattheywerenotsurprisedmoreoftenandmoreeffectually；forthislegionofCassagnaswastrulypatriarchalinitstheoryofwar，andcampedwithoutsentries，leavingthatdutytotheangelsoftheGodforwhomtheyfought。Thisisatoken，notonlyoftheirfaith，butofthetracklesscountrywheretheyharboured。M。deCaladon，takingastrollonefineday，walkedwithoutwarningintotheirmidst，ashemighthavewalkedinto'aflockofsheepinaplain，'andfoundsomeasleepandsomeawakeandpsalm-singing。Atraitorhadneedofnorecommendationtoinsinuatehimselfamongtheirranks，beyond'hisfacultyofsingingpsalms'；andeventheprophetSalomon'tookhimintoaparticularfriendship。'Thus，amongtheirintricatehills，therustictroopsubsisted；andhistorycanattributefewexploitstothembutsacramentsandecstasies。
　　Peopleofthistoughandsimplestockwillnot，asIhavejustbeensaying，provevariableinreligion；norwilltheygetnearertoapostasythanamereexternalconformitylikethatofNaamaninthehouseofRimmon。WhenLouisXVI。，inthewordsoftheedict，'convincedbytheuselessnessofacenturyofpersecutions，andratherfromnecessitythansympathy，'grantedatlastaroyalgraceoftoleration，CassagnaswasstillProtestant；andtoaman，itissotothisday。Thereis，indeed，onefamilythatisnotProtestant，butneitherisitCatholic。ItisthatofaCatholicCUREinrevolt，whohastakentohisbosomaschoolmistress。Andhisconduct，itisworthnoting，isdisapprovedbytheProtestantvillagers。
　　'Itisabadideaforaman，'saidone，'togobackfromhisengagements。'
　　ThevillagerswhomIsawseemedintelligentafteracountrifiedfashion，andwereallplainanddignifiedinmanner。AsaProtestantmyself，Iwaswelllookedupon，andmyacquaintancewithhistorygainedmefurtherrespect。Forwehadsomethingnotunlikeareligiouscontroversyattable，agendarmeandamerchantwithwhomIdinedbeingbothstrangerstotheplace，andCatholics。Theyoungmenofthehousestoodroundandsupportedme；andthewholediscussionwastolerantlyconducted，andsurprisedamanbroughtupamongtheinfinitesimalandcontentiousdifferencesofScotland。
　　Themerchant，indeed，grewalittlewarm，andwasfarlesspleasedthansomeotherswithmyhistoricalacquirements。Butthegendarmewasmightyeasyoveritall。
　　'It'sabadideaforamantochange，'saidhe；andtheremarkwasgenerallyapplauded。
　　ThatwasnottheopinionofthepriestandsoldieratOurLadyoftheSnows。Butthisisadifferentrace；andperhapsthesamegreat-heartednessthatupheldthemtoresist，nowenablesthemtodifferinakindspirit。Forcouragerespectscourage；butwhereafaithhasbeentroddenout，wemaylookforameanandnarrowpopulation。ThetrueworkofBruceandWallacewastheunionofthenations；notthattheyshouldstandapartawhilelonger，skirmishingupontheirborders；butthat，whenthetimecame，theymightunitewithself-respect。
　　Themerchantwasmuchinterestedinmyjourney，andthoughtitdangeroustosleepafield。
　　'Therearethewolves，'saidhe；'andthenitisknownyouareanEnglishman。TheEnglishhavealwayslongpurses，anditmightverywellenterintosomeone'sheadtodealyouanillblowsomenight。'
　　ItoldhimIwasnotmuchafraidofsuchaccidents；andatanyratejudgeditunwisetodwelluponalarmsorconsidersmallperilsinthearrangementoflife。Lifeitself，Isubmitted，wasafartooriskybusinessasawholetomakeeachadditionalparticularofdangerworthregard。'Something，'saidI，'mightburstinyourinsideanydayoftheweek，andtherewouldbeanendofyou，ifyouwerelockedintoyourroomwiththreeturnsofthekey。'
　　'CEPENDANT，'saidhe，'COUCHERDEHORS!'
　　'God，'saidI，'iseverywhere。'
　　'CEPENDANT，COUCHERDEHORS!'herepeated，andhisvoicewaseloquentofterror。
　　Hewastheonlyperson，inallmyvoyage，whosawanythinghardyinsosimpleaproceeding；althoughmanyconsidereditsuperfluous。
　　Onlyone，ontheotherhand，professedmuchdelightintheidea；
　　andthatwasmyPlymouthBrother，whocriedout，whenItoldhimI
　　sometimespreferredsleepingunderthestarstoacloseandnoisyale-house，'NowIseethatyouknowtheLord!'
　　ThemerchantaskedmeforoneofmycardsasIwasleaving，forhesaidIshouldbesomethingtotalkofinthefuture，anddesiredmetomakeanoteofhisrequestandreason；adesirewithwhichI
　　havethuscomplied。
　　AlittleaftertwoIstruckacrosstheMimente，andtookaruggedpathsouthwardupahillsidecoveredwithloosestonesandtuftsofheather。Atthetop，asisthehabitofthecountry，thepathdisappeared；andIleftmyshe-assmunchingheather，andwentforwardalonetoseekaroad。
　　Iwasnowontheseparationoftwovastwater-sheds；behindmeallthestreamswereboundfortheGaronneandtheWesternOcean；
　　beforemewasthebasinoftheRhone。Hence，asfromtheLozere，youcanseeinclearweathertheshiningoftheGulfofLyons；andperhapsfromherethesoldiersofSalomonmayhavewatchedforthetopsailsofSirCloudesleyShovel，andthelong-promisedaidfromEngland。YoumaytakethisridgeaslyingintheheartofthecountryoftheCamisards；fourofthefivelegionscampedallrounditandalmostwithinview-SalomonandJoanitothenorth，CastanetandRolandtothesouth；andwhenJulienhadfinishedhisfamouswork，thedevastationoftheHighCevennes，whichlastedallthroughOctoberandNovember1703，andduringwhichfourhundredandsixtyvillagesandhamletswere，withfireandpickaxe，utterlysubverted，amanstandingonthiseminencewouldhavelookedforthuponasilent，smokeless，anddispeopledland。Timeandman'sactivityhavenowrepairedtheseruins；Cassagnasisoncemoreroofedandsendingupdomesticsmoke；andinthechestnutgardens，inlowandleafycorners，manyaprosperousfarmerreturns，whentheday'sworkisdone，tohischildrenandbrighthearth。Andstillitwasperhapsthewildestviewofallmyjourney。Peakuponpeak，chainuponchainofhillsransurgingsouthward，channelledandsculpturedbythewinterstreams，featheredfromheadtofootwithchestnuts，andhereandtherebreakingoutintoacoronalofcliffs。Thesun，whichwasstillfarfromsetting，sentadriftofmistygoldacrossthehill-tops，butthevalleyswerealreadyplungedinaprofoundandquietshadow。
　　Averyoldshepherd，hobblingonapairofsticks，andwearingablackcapofliberty，asifinhonourofhisnearnesstothegrave，directedmetotheroadforSt。GermaindeCalberte。Therewassomethingsolemnintheisolationofthisinfirmandancientcreature。Wherehedwelt，howhegotuponthishighridge，orhowheproposedtogetdownagain，weremorethanIcouldfancy。NotfaroffuponmyrightwasthefamousPlandeFontMorte，wherePoulwithhisArmeniansabreslasheddowntheCamisardsofSeguier。
　　This，methought，mightbesomeRipvanWinkleofthewar，whohadlosthiscomrades，fleeingbeforePoul，andwanderedeversinceuponthemountains。ItmightbenewstohimthatCavalierhadsurrendered，orRolandhadfallenfightingwithhisbackagainstanolive。AndwhileIwasthusworkingonmyfancy，Iheardhimhailinginbrokentones，andsawhimwavingmetocomebackwithoneofhistwosticks。Ihadalreadygotsomewaypasthim；but，leavingModestineoncemore，retracedmysteps。
　　Alas，itwasaverycommonplaceaffair。Theoldgentlemanhadforgottoaskthepedlarwhathesold，andwishedtoremedythisneglect。
　　Itoldhimsternly，'Nothing。'
　　'Nothing？'criedhe。
　　Irepeated'Nothing，'andmadeoff。
　　It'soddtothinkof，butperhapsIthusbecameasinexplicabletotheoldmanashehadbeentome。
　　Theroadlayunderchestnuts，andthoughIsawahamletortwobelowmeinthevale，andmanylonehousesofthechestnutfarmers，itwasaverysolitarymarchallafternoon；andtheeveningbeganearlyunderneaththetrees。ButIheardthevoiceofawomansingingsomesad，old，endlessballadnotfaroff。ItseemedtobeaboutloveandaBELAMOUREUX，herhandsomesweetheart；andI
　　wishedIcouldhavetakenupthestrainandansweredher，asIwentonuponmyinvisiblewoodlandway，weaving，likePippainthepoem，myownthoughtswithhers。WhatcouldIhavetoldher？Littleenough；andyetalltheheartrequires。Howtheworldgivesandtakesaway，andbringssweetheartsnearonlytoseparatethemagainintodistantandstrangelands；buttoloveisthegreatamuletwhichmakestheworldagarden；and'hope，whichcomestoall，'
　　outwearstheaccidentsoflife，andreacheswithtremuloushandbeyondthegraveanddeath。Easytosay:yea，butalso，byGod'smercy，botheasyandgratefultobelieve!
　　Westruckatlastintoawidewhitehigh-roadcarpetedwithnoiselessdust。Thenighthadcome；themoonhadbeenshiningforalongwhileupontheoppositemountain；whenonturningacornermydonkeyandIissuedourselvesintoherlight。IhademptiedoutmybrandyatFlorac，forIcouldbearthestuffnolonger，andreplaceditwithsomegenerousandscentedVolnay；andnowIdranktothemoon'ssacredmajestyupontheroad。Itwasbutacoupleofmouthfuls；yetIbecamethenceforthunconsciousofmylimbs，andmybloodflowedwithluxury。EvenModestinewasinspiredbythispurifiednocturnalsunshine，andbestirredherlittlehoofsastoaliveliermeasure。Theroadwoundanddescendedswiftlyamongmassesofchestnuts。Hotdustrosefromourfeetandflowedaway。
　　Ourtwoshadows-minedeformedwiththeknapsack，herscomicallybestriddenbythepack-nowlaybeforeusclearlyoutlinedontheroad，andnow，asweturnedacorner，wentoffintotheghostlydistance，andsailedalongthemountainlikeclouds。Fromtimetotimeawarmwindrustleddownthevalley，andsetallthechestnutsdanglingtheirbunchesoffoliageandfruit；theearwasfilledwithwhisperingmusic，andtheshadowsdancedintune。Andnextmomentthebreezehadgoneby，andinallthevalleynothingmovedexceptourtravellingfeet。Ontheoppositeslope，themonstrousribsandgulliesofthemountainwerefaintlydesignedinthemoonshine；andhighoverhead，insomelonehouse，thereburnedonelightedwindow，onesquaresparkofredinthehugefieldofsadnocturnalcolouring。
　　Atacertainpoint，asIwentdownward，turningmanyacuteangles，themoondisappearedbehindthehill；andIpursuedmywayingreatdarkness，untilanotherturningshotmewithoutpreparationintoSt。GermaindeCalberte。Theplacewasasleepandsilent，andburiedinopaquenight。Onlyfromasingleopendoor，somelamplightescapedupontheroadtoshowmethatIwascomeamongmen'shabitations。Thetwolastgossipsoftheevening，stilltalkingbyagardenwall，directedmetotheinn。Thelandladywasgettingherchickstobed；thefirewasalreadyout，andhad，notwithoutgrumbling，toberekindled；halfanhourlater，andImusthavegonesupperlesstoroost。
　　THELASTDAY
　　WHENIawokeThursday，2ndOctober，and，hearingagreatflourishingofcocksandchucklingofcontentedhens，betookmetothewindowofthecleanandcomfortableroomwhereIhadsleptthenight，Ilookedforthonasunshinymorninginadeepvaleofchestnutgardens。Itwasstillearly，andthecockcrows，andtheslantinglights，andthelongshadowsencouragedmetobeoutandlookroundme。
　　St。GermaindeCalberteisagreatparishnineleaguesroundabout。
　　Attheperiodofthewars，andimmediatelybeforethedevastation，itwasinhabitedbytwohundredandseventy-fivefamilies，ofwhichonlyninewereCatholic；andittooktheCUREseventeenSeptemberdaystogofromhousetohouseonhorsebackforacensus。Buttheplaceitself，althoughcapitalofacanton，isscarcelargerthanahamlet。Itliesterracedacrossasteepslopeinthemidstofmightychestnuts。TheProtestantchapelstandsbelowuponashoulder；inthemidstofthetownisthequaintoldCatholicchurch。
　　ItwasherethatpoorDuChayla，theChristianmartyr，kepthislibraryandheldacourtofmissionaries；herehehadbuilthistomb，thinkingtolieamongagratefulpopulationwhomhehadredeemedfromerror；andhitheronthemorrowofhisdeaththeybroughtthebody，piercedwithtwo-and-fiftywounds，tobeinterred。Cladinhispriestlyrobes，hewaslaidoutinstateinthechurch。TheCURE，takinghistextfromSecondSamuel，twentiethchapterandtwelfthverse，'AndAmasawallowedinhisbloodinthehighway，'preachedarousingsermon，andexhortedhisbrethrentodieeachathispost，liketheirunhappyandillustrioussuperior。InthemidstofthiseloquencetherecameabreezethatSpiritSeguierwasnearathand；andbehold!alltheassemblytooktotheirhorses'heels，someeast，somewest，andtheCUREhimselfasfarasAlais。
　　StrangewasthepositionofthislittleCatholicmetropolis，athimblefulofRome，insuchawildandcontraryneighbourhood。Ontheonehand，thelegionofSalomonoverlookeditfromCassagnas；
　　ontheother，itwascutofffromassistancebythelegionofRolandatMialet。TheCURE，Louvrelenil，althoughhetookapanicatthearch-priest'sfuneral，andsohurriedlydecampedtoAlais，stoodwellbyhisisolatedpulpit，andthenceutteredfulminationsagainstthecrimesoftheProtestants。Salomonbesiegedthevillageforanhourandahalf，butwasbeatenback。Themilitiamen，onguardbeforetheCURE'Sdoor，couldbeheard，intheblackhours，singingProtestantpsalmsandholdingfriendlytalkwiththeinsurgents。Andinthemorning，althoughnotashothadbeenfired，therewouldnotbearoundofpowderintheirflasks。
　　Wherewasitgone？AllhandedovertotheCamisardsforaconsideration。Untrustyguardiansforanisolatedpriest!
　　ThatthesecontinualstirswereoncebusyinSt。GermaindeCalberte，theimaginationwithdifficultyreceives；allisnowsoquiet，thepulseofhumanlifenowbeatssolowandstillinthishamletofthemountains。Boysfollowedmeagreatwayoff，likeatimidsortoflion-hunters；andpeopleturnedroundtohaveasecondlook，orcameoutoftheirhouses，asIwentby。Mypassagewasthefirstevent，youwouldhavefancied，sincetheCamisards。
　　Therewasnothingrudeorforwardinthisobservation；itwasbutapleasedandwonderingscrutiny，likethatofoxenorthehumaninfant；yetitweariedmyspirits，andsoondrovemefromthestreet。
　　Itookrefugeontheterraces，whichareheregreenlycarpetedwithsward，andtriedtoimitatewithapenciltheinimitableattitudesofthechestnutsastheybearuptheircanopyofleaves。Everandagainalittlewindwentby，andthenutsdroppedallaroundme，withalightanddullsound，uponthesward。Thenoisewasasofathinfallofgreathailstones；buttherewentwithitacheerfulhumansentimentofanapproachingharvestandfarmersrejoicingintheirgains。Lookingup，Icouldseethebrownnutpeeringthroughthehusk，whichwasalreadygaping；andbetweenthestemstheeyeembracedanamphitheatreofhill，sunlitandgreenwithleaves。
　　Ihavenotoftenenjoyedaplacemoredeeply。Imovedinanatmosphereofpleasure，andfeltlightandquietandcontent。Butperhapsitwasnottheplacealonethatsodisposedmyspirit。
　　Perhapssomeonewasthinkingofmeinanothercountry；orperhapssomethoughtofmyownhadcomeandgoneunnoticed，andyetdonemegood。Forsomethoughts，whichsurewouldbethemostbeautiful，vanishbeforewecanrightlyscantheirfeatures；asthoughagod，travellingbyourgreenhighways，shouldbutopethedoor，giveonesmilinglookintothehouse，andgoagainforever。WasitApollo，orMercury，orLovewithfoldedwings？Whoshallsay？Butwegothelighteraboutourbusiness，andfeelpeaceandpleasureinourhearts。
　　IdinedwithapairofCatholics。Theyagreedinthecondemnationofayoungman，aCatholic，whohadmarriedaProtestantgirlandgoneovertothereligionofhiswife。AProtestantborntheycouldunderstandandrespect；indeed，theyseemedtobeofthemindofanoldCatholicwoman，whotoldmethatsamedaytherewasnodifferencebetweenthetwosects，savethat'wrongwasmorewrongfortheCatholic，'whohadmorelightandguidance；butthisofaman'sdesertionfilledthemwithcontempt。
　　'Itisabadideaforamantochange，'saidone。
　　Itmayhavebeenaccidental，butyouseehowthisphrasepursuedme；andformyself，Ibelieveitisthecurrentphilosophyintheseparts。Ihavesomedifficultyinimaginingabetter。It'snotonlyagreatflightofconfidenceforamantochangehiscreedandgooutofhisfamilyforheaven'ssake；buttheoddsare-nay，andthehopeis-that，withallthisgreattransitionintheeyesofman，hehasnotchangedhimselfahairbreadthtotheeyesofGod。
　　Honourtothosewhodoso，forthewrenchissore。Butitarguessomethingnarrow，whetherofstrengthorweakness，whetheroftheprophetorthefool，inthosewhocantakeasufficientinterestinsuchinfinitesimalandhumanoperations，orwhocanquitafriendshipforadoubtfulprocessofthemind。AndIthinkI
　　shouldnotleavemyoldcreedforanother，changingonlywordsforotherwords；butbysomebravereading，embraceitinspiritandtruth，andfindwrongaswrongformeasforthebestofothercommunionsThephylloxerawasintheneighbourhood；andinsteadofwinewedrankatdinneramoreeconomicaljuiceofthegrape-LaParisienne，theycallit。Itismadebyputtingthefruitwholeintoacaskwithwater；onebyonetheberriesfermentandburst；
　　whatisdrunkduringthedayissuppliedatnightinwater:so，witheveranotherpitcherfromthewell，andeveranothergrapeexplodingandgivingoutitsstrength，onecaskofParisiennemaylastafamilytillspring。Itis，asthereaderwillanticipate，afeeblebeverage，butverypleasanttothetaste。
　　Whatwithdinnerandcoffee，itwaslongpastthreebeforeIleftSt。GermaindeCalberte。IwentdownbesidetheGardonofMialet，agreatglaringwatercoursedevoidofwater，andthroughSt。
　　EtiennedeValleeFrancaise，orValFrancesque，astheyusedtocallit；andtowardseveningbegantoascendthehillofSt。
　　Pierre。Itwasalongandsteepascent。BehindmeanemptycarriagereturningtoSt。JeanduGardkeptharduponmytracks，andnearthesummitovertookme。Thedriver，liketherestoftheworld，wassureIwasapedlar；but，unlikeothers，hewassureofwhatIhadtosell。Hehadnoticedthebluewoolwhichhungoutofmypackateitherend；andfromthishehaddecided，beyondmypowertoalterhisdecision，thatIdealtinblue-woolcollars，suchasdecoratetheneckoftheFrenchdraught-horse。
　　IhadhurriedtothetopmostpowersofModestine，forIdearlydesiredtoseetheviewupontheothersidebeforethedayhadfaded。ButitwasnightwhenIreachedthesummit；themoonwasridinghighandclear；andonlyafewgreystreaksoftwilightlingeredinthewest。Ayawningvalley，gulfedinblackness，laylikeaholeincreatednatureatmyfeet；buttheoutlineofthehillswassharpagainstthesky。TherewasMountAigoal，thestrongholdofCastanet。AndCastanet，notonlyasanactiveundertakingleader，deservessomementionamongCamisards；forthereisasprayofroseamonghislaurel；andheshowedhow，eveninapublictragedy，lovewillhaveitsway。Inthehightideofwarhemarried，inhismountaincitadel，ayoungandprettylasscalledMariette。Thereweregreatrejoicings；andthebridegroomreleasedfive-and-twentyprisonersinhonourofthegladevent。
　　Sevenmonthsafterwards，Mariette，thePrincessoftheCevennes，astheycalledherinderision，fellintothehandsoftheauthorities，whereitwasliketohavegonehardwithher。ButCastanetwasamanofexecution，andlovedhiswife。HefellonValleraugue，andgotaladythereforahostage；andforthefirstandlasttimeinthatwartherewasanexchangeofprisoners。
　　Theirdaughter，pledgeofsomestarrynightuponMountAigoal，hasleftdescendantstothisday。
　　ModestineandI-itwasourlastmealtogether-hadasnackuponthetopofSt。Pierre，Ionaheapofstones，shestandingbymeinthemoonlightanddecorouslyeatingbreadoutofmyhand。Thepoorbrutewouldeatmoreheartilyinthismanner；forshehadasortofaffectionforme，whichIwassoontobetray。
　　ItwasalongdescentuponSt。JeanduGard，andwemetnoonebutacarter，visibleafaroffbytheglintofthemoononhisextinguishedlantern。
　　Beforeteno'clockwehadgotinandwereatsupper；fifteenmilesandastiffhillinlittlebeyondsixhours!
　　FAREWELL，MODESTINE!
　　ONexamination，onthemorningofOctober3rd，Modestinewaspronouncedunfitfortravel。Shewouldneedatleasttwodays'
　　repose，accordingtotheostler；butIwasnoweagertoreachAlaisformyletters；and，beinginacivilisedcountryofstage-coaches，Ideterminedtosellmyladyfriendandbeoffbythediligencethatafternoon。Ouryesterday'smarch，withthetestimonyofthedriverwhohadpursuedusupthelonghillofSt。Pierre，spreadafavourablenotionofmydonkey'scapabilities。Intendingpurchaserswereawareofanunrivalledopportunity。BeforetenI
　　hadanofferoftwenty-fivefrancs；andbeforenoon，afteradesperateengagement，Isoldher，saddleandall，forfive-and-
　　thirty。Thepecuniarygainisnotobvious，butIhadboughtfreedomintothebargain。
　　StJeanduGardisalargeplace，andlargelyProtestant。Themaire，aProtestant，askedmetohelphiminasmallmatterwhichisitselfcharacteristicofthecountry。TheyoungwomenoftheCevennesprofitbythecommonreligionandthedifferenceofthelanguagetogolargelyasgovernessesintoEngland；andherewasone，anativeofMialet，strugglingwithEnglishcircularsfromtwodifferentagenciesinLondon。IgavewhathelpIcould；andvolunteeredsomeadvice，whichstruckmeasbeingexcellent。
　　OnethingmoreInote。Thephylloxerahasravagedthevineyardsinthisneighbourhood；andintheearlymorning，undersomechestnutsbytheriver，Ifoundapartyofmenworkingwithacider-press。I
　　couldnotatfirstmakeoutwhattheywereafter，andaskedonefellowtoexplain。
　　'Makingcider，'hesaid。'OUI，C'ESTCOMMECA。COMMEDANSLE
　　NORD!'
　　Therewasaringofsarcasminhisvoice:thecountrywasgoingtothedevil。
　　ItwasnotuntilIwasfairlyseatedbythedriver，andrattlingthrougharockyvalleywithdwarfolives，thatIbecameawareofmybereavement。IhadlostModestine。UptothatmomentIhadthoughtIhatedher；butnowshewasgone，'Andoh!
　　Thedifferencetome!'
　　Fortwelvedayswehadbeenfastcompanions；wehadtravelledupwardsofahundredandtwentymiles，crossedseveralrespectableridges，andjoggedalongwithoursixlegsbymanyarockyandmanyaboggyby-road。Afterthefirstday，althoughsometimesIwashurtanddistantinmanner，Istillkeptmypatience；andasforher，poorsoul!shehadcometoregardmeasagod。Shelovedtoeatoutofmyhand。Shewaspatient，elegantinform，thecolourofanidealmouse，andinimitablysmall。Herfaultswerethoseofherraceandsex；hervirtueswereherown。Farewell，andifforever-
　　FatherAdamweptwhenhesoldhertome；afterIhadsoldherinmyturn，Iwastemptedtofollowhisexample；andbeingalonewithastage-driverandfourorfiveagreeableyoungmen，Ididnothesitatetoyieldtomyemotion。