首页 >出版文学> Adventures and Letters>第7章
  amwritingitjustafterfinishingmycableandhavingspentthemorningonmytoesinthechapel。Iwillfeelbettertomorrow。Anyway,itisdoneandIamglad,asitwasthesightofthecentury,andIwasinit,andnowIcanspendmygoodtimeandmoneyingayParee。Lovetoall。
  DICK。
  FromMoscowRichardwentdirecttoBudaPest,wherehewroteanarticleontheHungarianMillennial。
  BUDAPEST
  CHAS:May8th,1896。
  IhavejustreturnedfromtheprocessionoftheHungarianNobles。ItwasevenmorebeautifulandmoreinterestingthantheCzar'sentrythanwhichIwouldnothavebelievedanythingcouldhavebeenmoreimpressive——Butthefirstwasmilitary,exceptforthecarriages,whichwerelikesomethingoutoffairyland——to-day,thecostumeswerealldifferentandmediaeval,someninehundredyearsoldandnonenearerthanthe15thCentury。Themisenscenewasalsomuchbetter。
  Budaisaclean,oldburgh,withyellowhousesrisingonasteepgreenhill,redroofsandtowersanddomes,showingoutofthetrees——Itisveryhighbutverysteepandtheprocessionwoundinandoutlikeafairypicture——Isatonthetopofthehill,lookingdownittotheDanube,whichseparatesBudafromPest——TheEmperorsatacrossthesquareabout75yardsfromourtribuneinthebalconyofhispalace。
  WesatinthePalaceyardandtheprocessionpassedandturnedinfrontofus——Therewereabout1,500nobles,eachdressedtosuithimself,incostumesthathaddescendedforgenerations——ofbrocade,silk,fur,andgoldandsilvercloth——Eachcostumeaveraged,withthetrappingsofthehorse,5,000dollars。Somecost$1,000,some$15,000。Someworecompletesuitsofchainarmor,withbearskinsandgreatblackeaglefeathersontheirspearsjustastheywerewhentheyinvadedRome——Othersworegoldchainarmorandleopardorwolfskinsandtheirhorseswerestuddedwithturquoisesandtrappingsofgoldandsilverandsmotheredinsilvercoins——Itwouldhavebeenridiculousiftheyhadnotbeentherealthingineverydetailandifyouhadnotknownhowterriblyinearnestthemenwere。Thereisnoothercountryintheworldwheremenchangefromthemostblaseandcorrectofbeings,tofairyprincesintightsandfeathersandjewelledbeltsandsatincoats——Theywereanhourinpassingandeachoneseemedmorebeautifulthantheothers——IamverygladIcamealthoughIwasdisappointedatmissingtheaccidentatMoscow。ItmusthavebeenmoreterriblethanJohnstown。Ifoundthe——squiteconvertedintothemostawfulsnobsbutthepeopletheyworshipareassimpleandwellbredasallgentlepeopleareandIhavehadthemostdelightfultimewiththem。ItissosmallandquietafterMoscow,andinsteadofbeinglostinanavalancheofembassiesandsuitesandmissions,Ihaveadistinctpersonality,as"theAmerican,"whichIsharewith"the"FrenchmanandfourEnglishmen。Wearetheonlysixstrangersandtheygiveustherunofallthatisgoingon——Atnightwedineatthemostremarkableclubintheworld,ontheborderofthePark,wherethebestofalltheGypseymusiciansplaysforus——Themusicisaloneworthhavingcometohear,andthedearsoulswhoplayit,havingbeentoldthatIlikeitfollowmeallaroundtheterraceandsitdownthreefeetawayandfixtheireyesonyou,andthenproceedtopullyournervesandheartoutofyouforanhouratatime——Onenightamanheredippedatenthousandfrancnoteinhischampagneandpasteditontheleader'sviolinandbowedhisthanks,andtheleaderbowedinreturnandthenextmorningsenthimthenotebackinanenvelope,sayingthatthecomplimentwasworthmorethanthemoney——Theleader'snameisBercheyandtheHungarianshaveneverallowedhimtoleavethecountryforfearhewouldnotbeallowedtocomeback——Heisafat,halfdrunkenlookingman,withhiseyesfulloftearshalfthetimeheplays。Helooksjustlikeasetterdogandheissoterriblyinearnestthatwhenhefixesmewithhiseyesandplaysatme,thecourtladiesallgetupandmovetheirchairsoutofhiswayjustasthoughhewereasomnambulist——
  IleavehereWednesdayandreachParisFridayMORNINGtheeleventh——YoumusttrytomeetmeattheCafedelaPaixathalfpastnine——Waitinthecornerroomifyoudon'twishtositoutsideandassoonasIgetwashedIwilljoinyouforcoffee。Itwillbefinetoseeyouagainandtobedonewithjumpingaboutfromhoteltohotelandtobeabletoreadthesignsandtoknowhowtoaskforfood。Russian,GermanandHungarianhavemadeFrenchseemlikemymothertongue——
  DICK。
  CHAPTERX
  CAMPAIGNINGINCUBAANDGREECE
  InDecember,1896,RichardandFredericRemington,theartist,werecommissionedbytheNewYorkJournaltovisitCubawhichwasthenatwarwithSpain。ItwastheirintentiontogofromKeyWestintheVamoose,averyfastbutfrailsteam-launch,andtomakealandingatsomeuninhabitedpointontheCubancoast。Afterthistheirplansseemtohavebeentotrusttoluckandthekindlinessoftherevolutionists。
  AfterwaitingforsometimeatKeyWestforfavorableweather,theyatlaststartedoutonadarknighttomakethecrossing。
  AfewhoursaftertheVamoosehadleftKeyWestaheavystormarose——apparentlymuchtooviolentfortheslightlybuiltlaunch。ThecrewstruckandthecaptainfinallyrefusedtogoontoCubaandputbacktoKeyWest。ShortlyafterthisRemingtonandmybrotherreachedHavanabyamoresimpleandostentatiousroute。Thiswasmybrother'sfirsteffortasawarcorrespondent,andIpresumeitwasthisfactandtheveryindefinitenessoftheoriginalplanthatcausedhismotherandfathersomuchuneasiness。And,indeed,itdidproveeventuallyahazardousexploit。
  waytoKeyWest。
  December19,1896。
  DEARMOTHER:
  Ihopeyouwon'tbecrosswithmeforgoingoffandnotlettingyouknow,butIthoughtitwasbettertodoitthatwayastherewassuchdelayinourgettingstarted。IamgoingtoCubabywayofKeyWestwithFredericRemingtonandMichaelson,acorrespondentwhohasbeenthereforsixmonths。WearetobetakenbytheVamoosethefasteststeamyachtmadetoSantaClaraprovincewheretheCubanswillmeetusandtakeustoGomez。Wewillstayamonthwithhim,theyachtcallingforcopyandsketchesonceaweek,andfinallyforusinamonth。IgetallmyexpensesandTheJournalpaysme$3,000forthemonth'swork。TheHarper'sMagazinealsotakesastoryatsixhundreddollarsandRussellwillreprintRemington'ssketchesandmystoryinbookform,soIshallprobablyclear$4,000inthenextmonthorsixweeks。IwasaweekingettinginformationonthesubjectsoIknowallaboutitfromthemenwhohavejustbeenthereandIwantyoutopayattentiontowhatItellyoutheytoldmeandnottolistentoanystrayvisitorwhocomesinforteaandtalkswithoutanytactorknowledge。Thereisnodangerinthetripexcepttheproblemofgettingthereandgettingawayagain,andthatisnowremovedbyTheJournal'syacht。Iwouldhavegoneearlierhadanyoftheperiodicalsthataskedmetogoshownmeanywaytogetthere——THEREIS
  NOFEVERTHISTIMEOFYEARandasyouknowfevernevertouchesme。ItgotalltheothersinCentralAmericaandneverworriedmeatall。Thereisnodangerofgettingshot,astheprovinceintowhichwego,theSantaClaraprovince,isownedandpopulatedandpatrolledbytheCubans。ItisnomoreSpanishthanNewJerseyandtheSpaniardscannotgetinthere。WehavethestrongestpossiblelettersfromtheJunta,andIhavefromLamont,BayardandOlneyandcredentialsineverylanguage。WewillsitaroundtheGomezcampandsendmessengersbacktothecoast。ItisathreedaystripandasGomezmaybemovingfromplacetoplaceyoumaynothearfromusforamonthandwemaynothearfromyoubutrememberitwasamuchlongertimethanthatbeforeyouheardfrommewhenIwenttoHonduras。AlsokeepinmindthatIamgoingasacorrespondentonlyandmustkeepoutofthewayoffightingandthatImeantodoso,asChamberlainsayswewantdescriptivestoriesnotbravedeeds——MajorFlintwhohasarrangedthetripforuswasdowntherewithMaceoasacorrespondent。Hesawsixfightsandnevershotoffhisgunoncebecauseashesaiditwasnothisbusinesstokillpeopleandhehaspersuadedmethatheisright,soIwon'tdoanythingbutlookon——IhaveboughtatTheJournal'sexpenseafiftydollarfieldglasswhichisanewinventionandthebestmade。IhavemarkeditsothatyoucanseeamanfivemilesoffandassoonasIseehimImeantobegintorideorruntheotherway——nooneloveshimselfmorethanIdosoyouleavemetotakecareofmyself。IwishIcouldgiveyouanyideaofthecontemptthefourreturnedcorrespondentswhotalkedtome,havefortheSpaniards。Theyhaveseenthemshoot2,500roundswithouthittingmenat200yardsandtheyrunawayiftheenemybeginsonthemfirst。However,youtrusttoRichard——WehaveafineescortarrangedforusandMichaelsonspeaksSpanishperfectlyandhasbeensixmonthsscoutingoverthecountry。
  DICK。
  KEYWest,December26,1896。
  DEARFAMILY:
  Igotyourletterslatelastnightandtheymademeprettysolemn。ItisanawfullysolemnthingtohavepeoplecareforyoulikethatandtocareforthemasI
  do。Ican'ttellyouhowmuchIloveyou。Youdon'tknowhowmuchthepainofworryingyouforamonthhasmeanttome,butIhavetalkeditalloutwithmyself,andleftittoGodandI
  amsureIamdoingright。AsMrs。Crownsaid,"There'sawholechurchfuluphereprayingforyou,"andIguessthatwillpullmethrough。Ofcourse,dear,dearMotherthoughtshewascrosswithme。Shecouldnotbecrosswithme,andherlettertoldmehowmuchshecared,thatwasall,andmademebeextracareful。ButIneednotpromiseyoutobecareful。YouhaveanideaIamawild,filibustering,hot-headedyoungman。Iamnot。Igavetheguidestounderstandtheirdutywastokeepusoutofdangerifwehadtowalkmilestoavoidit。Wearemenofpeace,goingin,asrealestateagentsandcoffee-plantersanddrummersaregoinginoneverysteamer,toattendtoourespecialworkandgetoutagainquick。IhavejustasstrongaprejudiceagainstkillingamanasIhaveagainsthiskillingme。
  Lotsandlotsoflove。Don'tgetscaredifyoudon'thearforamonth,althoughwewilltrytogetourstoriesbackonceaweek,butyouknowweareattheconvenienceoftheCubanswhowillpocketourdespatchesandmoneyandnottakethelongtripback。ThankdearDadforhisletterfullofgoodadvice。
  Itwasexcellent。RemingtonandMichelsonaregoodmenandI
  likethemimmensely。Alreadywearefirmfriends。
  Love,KEYWEST——January1,1897。
  DEARMOTHER:
  Asyouwillknowbymytelegramweareeitheroffonasafeseagoingboatorwaitingforone。ThereisnoturningbackfromhereandtheonlyreasonIthoughtofdoingsowastheknowledgeofthewayyouwouldsufferandworry。IargueditoutthatitwasselfishinmetoweighmygettinglaughedatandparagraphedasthewarcorrespondentthatalwaysTurnedBackagainstamonthofuneasinessforyou,butlaterIsawIcouldnotdoitmuchasIloveyoufortheelementofdangertomeisnon-existent;itismerelyanexcitingadventureandyouwillhavetobelievemeandnotworrybutbeaSpartanmother。I
  wouldnotcountbeinglaughedatandthelossofmyownselfrespectifIreallythoughttherewasgreatdanger,butIdonot。
  YouwillnotlosemeandifIgonowIcansitstillnexttimeandsay"Ihavedonebetterthingsthanthat。"IfIhadnotgoneitwouldhavemeantthatIwouldhavehadtohavedonejustthatmuchharderastuntnexttimetomakepeopleforgetthatIhadfailedinthisone。NowdocheerupandbelieveintheluckofRichardHardingDavisandtheBritishArmy。WehavecarteblanchefromTheJournaltobuyorleaseanyboatonthecoastandIrockedthemfor$1000inadvancepaymentbecauseofthedelayovertheVamoose。
  IamsohappyatthinkingIamgoing,IcouldnothavefacedanyonehadInot,althoughwehadnothingtodowiththefailure,wetriedtocrossfairlyinthedamntubanditwashercaptainwhoputback。Ilayoutonthedeckandcriedwhenherefusedtogoahead,wehadwaitedsolong。TheCubansandRemingtonandMichelsonhadputonalltheirridingthingsbutfortunatelyIhadnotandsowassparedthathumiliation。WhatIdon'tknowabouttheFineArtofFilibusteringnowisunnecessary。IfindmanyfriendsofmyCaptainBoyntonor"Capt。Burke。"TonighttheofficersoftheRaleighgivemeagranddinneratwhichIwearadresssuitandmakespeeches——theyarethebestchapsIevermetintheNavy。
  LotsofloveandbestwishestoDadandtoNoraforahappy,happyNewYear。Youknowmeandyouknowmyconsciencebutitwouldnotletmegobackinordertosaveyouanxietysoyouwon'tthinkmeselfish。Godblessyou。
  DICK。
  KEYWEST,January2nd,1897。
  DEARFAMILY:
  IhavelearnedherethatthefirstqualityneededtomakeagreatfilibusterisPatience,itisnotcourage,orresourcesoraknowledgeoftheCubanCoastline,itispatience。
  Anybodycanrunaboatintoadarkbayouanddumpriflesonthebeachandscurryawaytoseaagainbutonlyheroescansitforamonthonahotelporchorattheendofawharf,andwait。ThatisallwedoandthatismylifeatKeyWest。I
  getupandhalfdressandtakeaplungeinthebayandthendressfullyandhaveagreasybreakfastandthenlightahugeKeyWestcigar,pricethreecentsandsitonthehotelporchwithmyfeetonarail——Nothinghappensafterthatexceptgettingone'sbootspolishedasthetwoindustriesofthisplaceareblackingbootsanddrivingcabs。Ihavetwoboystoblackmineatthesametimeeverymorningandpaytheonewhodoeshisthebetterofthetwo——Itgenerallyendsinafightsothataffordsdiversion——Thenamancomesalong,anyman,andsays,"Remmington'slookingforyou"andIgetupandlookforRemington。ThereisonlyatriangleofstreetswhereonecanfindhimandIcallat"Josh"Curry'sfirstandthenatPendleton'sNewsStoreandreadallthebacknumbersofthePoliceGazetteforthehundredthtimeandthencallhereattheCustomHouseandthenlookinattheCableoffice,whereMichaelsonlivessendingtelegramsaboutanythingornothingandthatbringsmebacktothehotelporchagain,whereIhavemybootsshinedoncemoreandthengointomid-daydinner。InthemeanwhileRemingtonislookingformeahundredyardsintherear。Hegenerallygetsto"Josh's"asIleavetheCustomHouse——IntheafternoonIstudySpanishoutofatextbookandatthreetakeabicycleride,atfiveI
  callatthegarrisontotaketeawiththedoctorandhiswife,whoissweeterthanangel'severgettobewithaminiatureangelofababycalledMartha。Iwaituntilretreatissoundedandthegunisfiredatsunsetandhavingcommentedunfavorablyonthewaythesoldierslettheflagdroponthegrassinsteadofcatchingitonthearmsasabluejacketdoes,Irideofftothebayforanotherbath——ThenItakethelaunchtotheRaleighanddinewiththeofficersandrejoiceinthecleanfreshpaintandbrassanddecksandthelightsandblackplacesofagreatshipofwar,thanwhichnothingismoresplendid。Wesitonthequarter-deckandsmokeandplaytheguitarandIgohomeagain,intimeforbed。Ivarythisprogrammeoccasionallybyspendingthemorningontheendofawharfwatchinganothermanfishandreadingoldnovelsandthe"LivesofCaptainWalker"and"CaptainFryoftheVirginius,"
  twogreatbooksfromeachofwhichIamgoingtowriteashortstoryliketheoneoftheAlamooroftheJamesonRaid——ThelifeofWalkerIfoundontheRaleighandthelifeofCaptainFrywithalltheoldwoodcutsandthenewspapercommentsofthetimeatabookstorehere。Idon'tknowwhenweshallgetawaybutitisnousekickingaboutit,Michaelsonisdoingallhecanandthenewtugwillbealonginaweekanyway。IshallbesogladtogettoCubathatIwilldancewithglee。
  DICK。
  MATANZAS,January15th,1897。
  DEARMOTHER:
  IsentyouanotebyRemingtonwhichhewillmailintheStates——FromhereIgotoSaguaLaGrande。Itisonthenortherncoast。IthinkfromthereIshallcrossovertoCienfuegosontheSoutherncoastandthenifIcancatchasteamergotoSantiagotoseemyoldfriends,attheJuraquaminesandMacWilliams'oreroadand"thePalms"——EverywhereI
  amtreatedwellonaccountofWeyler'sorderandIamlearningagreatdealandtalkingverylittle,mySpanishbeingbad。
  Thereiswarhereandnomistakeandallthepeopleinthefieldshavebeenorderedintothefortifiedtownswheretheyarestarvinganddyingofdisease。YesterdayIsawthehousesofthesepeopleburningonbothsidesofthetrack——Theygavesheltertotheinsurgentsandsoverysoontheyfoundtheirhousesgone。
  IamsorelievedatgettingoldRemingtontogoasthoughIhadwon$5000。Hewasasplendidfellowbutaperfectkidandhadtobehumoredandpettedallthetime。I
  shallifIhaveluckbethroughwiththisinafewweeksbutithashadsuchasetbackatthestartthatIamafraiditcannevermakeabookandIdoubtifIcanwriteadecentarticleeven。IamsoanxiousnottokeepyouworryinganylongerthanisnecessaryandsoIamhurryingalongtakingonlyacarwindowviewofthings。AddressmecareofConsulGeneralLee,Havanaandconfineyourremarkstowhatisgoingonathome。Iknowwhatisgoingonhere。Idon'tbelievehalfIhearbutIambeingslowlyconverted。RemingtonismoreexcitablethanIam,sodon'tmisunderstandifhestartsinviolently。Iamgettingdetailsandverifyingthings。HeisrightonabigscalebuteveryonehasliedsoaboutthisislandthatIdonotwanttosayanythingIdonotbelieveistrue。
  ThisisabeautifullittlecityandafterJaruco,whereweslepttwodaysago,itisParis。Therewesleptoffthebarnyardandcowsandchickenswalkedalloverthefloorandfleasalloverus。ItwaslikeHondurasonlyfilthier。SpeakingofParis,telltheKidIexpecttogoovertohimsoonafterIreturntoNewYork。
  oflove。
  DICK。
  CARDENAS——NorthCoastofCuba。
  January16th,1897。
  DEARMOTHER:
  Itisveryfunnynotknowingwhatsortofaplaceyouaretosleepinnextandtakingthingsoutofagrabbag,asitwere——InEuropeyoucanalwaysguesswhatthewellknowntownswillgiveyouforyouhaveaguidebook,buthereitisallluck。Matanzaswasaprettycitybutthepeoplewereawful,thehotelwasSpanishandtheproprietorinsolent,thoughIwasspendingmoreofWillieHearst'smoneythanalloftheofficersspendinaweek,theConsulcouldnottalkEnglishorSpanish,hesaidhehadn'tcomethere"togotoschooltonoSpaniard"andhegloriedinthefacthehadbeentherethreeyearswithoutknowingawordofthelanguage。Hisvice-Consulwasworseandeverythingwentwronggenerally。
  EveryoneImetwasanAlarmistandthatispoliteforliar。
  TheyaskedRemingtonifhewasthemanwhomanufacturedtheriflesandgaveustheIowaDemocrattoread。TonightIreachedhereafterasixhoursridethroughblazingfieldsofsugarcaneandstoppedonmywaytothehoteltoasktheConsulwhenthenextboatwenttoSaqualaGrande——IhadnoletterofintroductiontohimasIhadtotheMatanzasconsul,butassoonashesawmycardhegotoutofhischairandshookhandsagainandwasasheartyandwellbredanddelightfulasCharleyhimselfandunlikeChashedidnotaskme14francsforlookingonhim。
  Heisoutnowchasingaroundtogetmeatrainforto-morrow。
  ButIwon'tgoto-morrow。Myhotellooksontheplazaandtheproprietorandthewholesuiteofattendantsaremyslaves。Itisjustasdifferentascanbe。Myinterpreterdoesit,hecallshimselfMYVALET,althoughIpointouttohimthattwoshirtsandtwelvecollarsdonotconstituteawardrobeevenwitharubbercoatthrownin。ButhelikestoplayatmybeingadistinguishedstrangerandIcan'tsayIobject。OnlywhenyourememberthewayIwasinvitedtoseeCubaandexpectedtoseeit,andnowthewayIamseeingitfromcarwindowswithAVALET。Whatwouldthenewschoolofyellowkidjournalistssayiftheyknewthat。ForthefirsttimeonthistripIhavewishedyouwerebothwithme,thatwastonight。Ineverseeanythingreallybeautifulbutthatitinstantlymakesmefeelselfishandwishyoucouldseeittoo。
  IthashappenedagainandagainandtonightIwishyoucouldbeherewithmeonthisbalcony。ThetownrunsdownaslopetothebayandinthemiddleofitisthePlazawithmeonthebalconywhichletsoutofmysleepingroom——"theroom"sotheproprietortellsme,"reservedonlyfortheCapitainGeneral。"
  ItisjustlikethedescriptioninthatremarkablenovelofminewhereClayandAlicesitonthebalconyoftherestaurant。
  IhavethemoonlightandtheCathedralwiththeopendoorsandthebronzestatueinthemiddleandtheroyalpalmsmovinginthebreezestraightfromtheseaandthepeoplewalkingaroundtheplazabelow。IfitwasinanywayasbeautifulasthisClayandAlicewouldhaveendedthenovelthatnight。
  Igotagrandlotoflettersto-daywhichOtto,myinterpreterbroughtbackfromHavanaafterhavingconductedRemingtonthereinsafety。Imustsayyouarewritingverycheerfullynow,butIdon'twonderyouworriedatfirstbutnowthatIamacommercialtravellerwithanorderfromWeylerwhichdoeseverythingwhenIfinditnecessary,youreallymustnotworryanymorebutjustletmecontinueonmyuneventfuljourneyandthencomehome。Ishallhavebeengonesolongandmyfriends,judgingfromRussellandDanaandIrene'sletters,willbesogladtoseeme,thattheywillhaveforgottenI
  wentouttodootherthingsthancoastaroundintrains。Asamatteroffactthisisaterriblybigproblemandmostdifficulttogetthetruthof,Ifindmyselfgrowingtobetheoppositeofthealarmist,whateverthatis,althoughyouwouldthinkthepicturesqueanddramaticandexcitingthingwouldbetheoneIwouldratherbelievebecauseIwanttobelieveit,butIfindthatthatisnotso,IseeagreatdealonbothsidesandIdonotbelievehalfIamtold。Asweusedtosayatcollege,"itisagainsthistory,"anditisagainsthistoryformentoactasIamtoldtheyareactinghere——Theyshowmethepueblohuddledtogetheraroundthefortifiedtowns,livinginpalmhutsbutIknowthattheyhavealwayslivedinpalmhuts,theyellowkidreportersdon'tknowthatorconsiderit,butsendoffwordthattheconditionofthepeopleisterrible,thattheyhaveonlyleavestocoverthem,anditsoundsverybadly。ThatisaninstanceofwhatImean。Inabigwaythereisnodoubtthattheprocessgoingonhereisoneofexterminationandruin。TwoyearsagotheamountofsugarshippedfromtheportofMatanzastotheU。S。wasvaluedat11
  millionsayear。Thislastyearjustovershowsthatsugartotheamountof$800,000wassentout。In'94,154vesselstouchedatMatanzasontheirwaytoAmerica。In'95therewere80andin'96thereare16。Ialwaysimaginedthathousesweredestroyedduringawarbecausetheygotinthewayofcannonballsortheywereburnedbecausetheymightoffersheltertotheenemy,butheretheyaredestroyed,withthepurposeofmakingthewarhorribleandhurryinguptheend。Theinsurgentsbeganfirstbydestroyingthesugarmills,someofwhichwereworthmillionsofdollarsinmachinery,andnowtheSpaniardsareburningthehomesofthepeopleandherdingtheminaroundthetownstostarveouttheinsurgentsandtoleavethemwithoutshelterorplacestogoforfoodortohidethewounded。Soalldaylongwhereeveryoulookyouseegreatheavycolumnsofsmokerisingintothisbeautifulskyabovethemagnificentpalmsthemostnobleofallpalms,almostofalltrees——ItisthemostbeautifulcountryIhaveevervisited。IhadnorecollectionofhowbeautifulitwasorelseIhadnottheknowledgeofotherplaceswithwhichtocompareit。Nothingoutoftheimaginationcanapproachitinitsgreatwaterfallsandmossyrocksandgrandplainsandforestsofwhitepillarswithplumeswavingabovethem。Onlymanisvilehereanditiscrueltoseethewallsofthehouseswithblindeyes,withroofsgoneandgardensburned,everychurchbutonethatIhaveseenwasafortresswithhammocksswungfromthealtarsandrudebarricadesthrownuparoundthedoorways——IfthisiswarIamoftheopinionthatitisasenselesswickedinstitutionmadeforsoldiers,loversandcorrespondentsfordifferentreasons,andfornooneelseintheworldanditistooexpensivefortheotherstokeepitgoingtoentertainthesefewgentlemen——IhaveseenverylittleofityetandIprobablywon'tseemuchmore,butIhaveseenallIwant。
  Remingtonhadhismindsatisfiedevensooner——butthenheisanalarmistandexaggeratesthings——Themenwhoweartheredbadgeofcourage,Idon'tfeelsorryfor,theyhavetheirrewardintheirbloodybandagesandthelittlecrossontheirtunicbutthoseyoumeetcomingbacksickanddyingwithfeveraretheonesthatmakefightingcontemptible——poorlittlefarmers,poorlittlechildrenwithnointerestinCubaorSpain'srighttoholdit,whohavebeensentouttodielikeantsbeforetheyhavelearnedtoholdamauser,andwhoaregoingbackagainwiththebeardsthathavegrowninthefieldhospitalsontheircheeksandtheireyeshollow,andtooweaktomoveorspeak。SixofthemdiedwhileIwasinJaroco,atownasbigasMarionandthathadbeentheaveragefortwomonths,thinkofthat,sixpeopledyinginMarioneverydaythroughJulyandAugust——Ididn'tstayinthattownanylongerthanthetraindid——WellIhavebeenwritingeditorialshereinsteadofcheeringyouupbutIguessI'maboutrightandwhenIseealittlemoreI'lltellitoveragaintoTheJournal——ItisnotasexcitingreadingasdeedsofdaringbyourspecialcorrespondentandIhaven'tchangedmynameorshavedmyeyebrowsordoneanythingtheothermenhavedonebutIbelieveI
  amgettingnearthetruth。Theyhaveshutoffprovisionsgoingorcomingfromthetowns,theyhavehuddledhundredsofpeoplewhodonotknowwhatabathmeansaroundthesetowns,andthisisgoingtohappen——AssoonastherainsbegintheyellowfeverandsmallpoxwillsetinandallvesselsleavingCubanportswillbequarantinedandtheislandwillbeonegreatplaguespot。Theinsurgentswhoareintheopenfieldswillliveandthesoldierswilldiefortheirofficersknownothingofsanitationorcarenothing。ThelittleConsulhasjustbeenheretoseemeandwehavehadalongtalkandIgotbackathim。HetoldmehehadseentheFranco-GermanwarasacorrespondentofTheTribuneandIaskedhimifhehadevermetanothercorrespondentofTheTribuneatthattimeaGermanstudentnamedHanswhocabledthestoryofthebattleofGravelloteandwhoArchibaldForbessayswasthefirstcorrespondenttousethecable。TheConsulwholookslikeWilliamD。Howellswriggledaroundinhischairandsaid"IguessyoumeanmebutIwasnotaGermanstudent,IwasbornandraisedinPhiladelphiaandForbesgotmynamewrong,itisHance。"SothenIgotupandshookhandswithhiminmyturnandtoldhimIhadalwayswantedtomeetthatcorrespondentanddidnotexpecttodosoinCardenas,onthecoastofCuba。
  Thankyouallforyourletters。IamgladyoulikedtheJamesonbook。IthoughtyouknewIwasaF。R。G。S。ItwasGeorgeCurzonproposedmeandasheisagoldmedallistoftheSocietyitwaseasygettingin。Lotsoflove。
  DICK。
  RichardreturnedtoNewYorkfromCubainFebruary,1897,butthefollowingmonthstartedforFlorencetopaymealong-promisedvisit。OnhiswayhestoppedforafewdaysinLondonandParis。
  ABASSADEDESETATS-UNIS
  59RueGalilee,Paris,April1st,1897。
  DEARFAMILY:
  Igotoverhereto-dayaftertheheaviestweatherIevertackledonthischannel。StephenCranecamewithme。IgavehimalunchonWednesday。AnthonyHope,McCarthy,HaroldFredericandBarriecame。SirEvelynWoodinsteadofcomingwasdetainedatthewarofficeandsentinsteadalanceSergeantonhorsebackwithahugeenvelopemarked"OnHerMajesty'sService,"whichwastobedeliveredintomyhands——
  TheentireSavoywasupsetanditwasgenerallysupposedthatwarhadbeendeclaredandthatIwasbeingorderedtothefront——ThewholehotelhungoverusuntilIhadreceiptedforthepackageandthesoldierhadsalutedandclankedaway。I
  gaveCranetheletterasasouvenir。IalsosawSeymourHicks'firstnightandrecognized15Americansongsinit。
  TheLondonTimesofferedmethepositionofcorrespondentontheGreekfrontier。EveryoneinLondonthoughtitanenormouscomplimentandHaroldFrederic,Ralph,BallardSmithandtherestwereveryenvious。ItoldthemIcouldnotgo,butIwasgladtohavehadthecomplimentpaidme。Barriehasmadeoutascenarioofthe"Soldiers"fordramaticpurposesandhasaskedtheHaymarketmanagementtoconsiderit。So,thatIguessthatitmustbegood——
  So,IalsoguessIhadbetterfinishit——IleaveforFlorencetonight。Iamhavingafine,finetimeandIamsogladyouareallwell。
  Lotsoflove,DICK。
  Ofthemanyhappydayswehavespenttogether,IdonotbelievetherewereanymuchmorehappythanthethreeweeksRichardremainedwithme。ItwashisfirstlongvisittoItalyandfromthedayofhisarrivalhelovedtheoldtownanditspeoplewhogavehimamostfriendlywelcome。HehadcomeatatimewhenFlorencewasatitsbest,itsnarrowquaintstreetsfilledwithsunshineandthrongedwithidlingnativesandthescurryingtouriststhatalwayscamewiththefirstdaysofspring。TheCascineandthepink-walledroadsoftheenvironswereablazewithwildrosesandhere,afterhisratherstrenuousexperienceinCuba,Richardgavehimselfuptolongdaysofhappyidleness。Togetherwetookvoyagesofdiscoverytomanyofthelittlewalledandforgottentownswherethetouristsseldomsetfoot。OnceweevenwanderedsofarasMonteCarlo,wheremybrothertriedveryhardtobreakthebankanddidnotsucceed。ButtheRichardHardingDavisluckdidnotfailhimcompletelyandIrememberIgreatlyenviedhimthehugepileofgoldandnotesthatrepresentedhiswinningsandwhichwedidourverybesttospendbeforeweleftthelandofthePrinceofMonaco。However,havinghadhisfirsttasteofwar,RichardfeltthathemustleavethepeaceandcontentofFlorencetoseehowtheGreeks,withwhomhehadmuchsympathy,werefaringwiththeirenemiestheTurks。Asithappened,thisexpeditionprovedbutashortinterruption,andinlessthanamonthhewasoncemorebackwithhisnew-foundfriendsinFlorence。
  April28,1897
  OntheWaytoPatrasonaSteamer。
  DEARFAMILY:
  IthasbeenaweeksinceIwroteyoulast,whenIsentyoutheInaugurationarticle。SincethenIhavebeenhavingthebesttimeIeverhadanyplaceALONE。Ihavehadmorefunwithacrowd,butneverhavebeensohappybymyself。WhatIwouldhavebeenhadItakensomeotherchapwithmeIcannotimagine。ButthepeopleofthispartofGreecehavebeensokindthatIcannotsayIhavebeenalone。Inevermetwithstrangersanywherewhoweresohospitable,soconfidingandpolite。Afterthatslaughter-yardandpestplaceofCuba,whichismuchmoreterribletomenowthanitwaswhenIwasthere,orbeforeIhadseenthatwarcanbeconductedlikeanyotherevilofcivilization,thisoperabouffewarfareislikeaduelbetweentwogentlemenintheBois。Cubaislikeaslave-holderbeatingaslave'sheadinwithawhip。Iamawarcorrespondentonlybyagreatstretchoftheimagination;
  Iamapeacecorrespondentreally,andallthefightingIhaveseenwasbycannonatlongrange。Iwasatlongrange,notthecannon。IamdoingthiscampaigninapersonallyconductedsensewithnoregardtothePowersortotheLondonTimes。Ididsendthemanarticlecalled"ThePipingTimesofWar。"IftheydonotuseitIshallillustrateitwiththephotosIhavetakenandsellit,forfivetimesthesumtheywouldgive,totheHarperswhoareeverwithus。AsIoncesaidinanotedwork,"Greece,Mrs。Morris,restoresallyourlostillusions。"ForthelastweekIhavebeenbackinthedaysofConrad,theCorsair,and"Oh,MaidofAthens,ereWePart。"I
  havebeenridingoverwind-swepthillsandmountainstoppedwithsnow,andwithsheepandgoatsandwildflowersofeverycolorspreadingforacres,andinalandwhereeverymandressesbychoicelikeagrandoperabrigand,andnotonlyforphotographicpurposes。Ihavebeenonthemoveallthetime,chasingintherearofarmiesthatturnbackassoonasI
  approachandapologizefordisappointingmeofabattle,orridingtothesceneofabattlethatnevercomesoff,orhasteningtoabombardmentthatturnsouttobeanattackonanemptyfort。
  Iliveonbrownbreadandcheeseandgoat'smilkandsleeplikealoginshepherds'huts。ItissobeautifulthatI
  almostgrudgethenight。NoraandMothercouldtakethistripassafelyasaregimentandwouldseethingsoutoffairyland。
  Andsuchadventures!LateinlifeIamatlasthavingadventuresandhonorsheapeduponme。Iwaselectedacaptainofabandofbrigandswhohadbeenwatchingamountainpassforamonth,andasitshowednosignsofrunningawayhadtakentodancingonthegreen。Icaughtthematthisinnocentpastimeandtheyallowedmetophotographthemandgivethemwineateightcentsaquartwhichwedrankoutofatinstovepipe。Theydrankaboutfourfeetofstovepipeorthirty-sixcents'worth,thentheydancedandsangformeinacircle,oldmenandboys,thendrilledwiththeircarbines,andIshowedthemmyrevolverandfield-glassesandthemselvesinthefinderofthecamera;andwhenIhadtogotheytookmeontheirshouldersandmarchedmearoundwavingtheirrifles。
  Thentheoldmenkissedmeonthecheekandweallembracedandtheywept,andIfeltasbadlyasthoughIwerepartingfromfiftyfriends。TheytoldmyguidethatifIwouldcomebacktheywouldgetfiftymore"asbraveasthey"andIcouldbecaptain。
  Icouldnotbegintotellyoualltheamusingthingsthathavehappenedinthisoneweek。Ididnotwanttocomeatall,onlyasternsenseofdutymademe。ForIwantedtowritetheplayinCharley'sgildedhallsandgettoParisandLondon。
  ButIcanneverceaserejoicingthatItookthistrip。Anditwillmakethebook,"AYearfromaReporter'sDiary,"ascompleteasitcanbe。ThatwaswhyIcame。NowIhavetheCoronationoftheCzar,theMillennialatHungary,theInaugurationatWashington,theQueen'sJubilee,theWarinCuba,andtheGreco-TurkishWar。Thatisagoodyear'sworkandImeantoloafafterit。YouwilllaughandsaythatthatiswhatIalwayssay,butifyouknewhowIhadtokickmyselfoutofFlorenceandtheCascinetocomehereyouwouldbelieveme。IwantarestandIamcuttingthisveryshort。
  Don'tfailtocutanythingDadandMotherdon'tlikeoutoftheInaugurationarticle。Youwillhavemewithyouthiswinteronmylittlebicycleandgoingtodancesandnotpayingboardtoanyone。RememberhowIusedtothreatentogotoGreecewhenthecoffeewasnotgood。Itseemstoofunnynow,forIneverwasinabetterplace,orhadmorefunorsawlessofwarorthesignsofwar。
  DICK。
  May7,1897。
  10EastTwenty-EighthStreet-NIT
  Sponitza。
  DEARCHAS。
  ThisisoneoftheplacesoutofPhroso,butasyouneverreadPhrosoIwillcutallthat——IhatetosayitsosoonagainbutthisisthemostbeautifulcountrytotraveloverIhaveseen——Itisafairytheatricalgrandoperacountrywhereeverybodydressesinpetticoatsandgoldbraidedvestsandcarrycarbinestotendsheepwith——IrodefromSantaMauraseemaptoaspotoppositePrevesawheretheysaidtherewasgoingtobebombarding——TherewasnotofcoursebutIhadIthinkthemostbeautifulrideofmylife。
  Iwasabsolutelyhappy——littlelambsbleatedandkidsbuttedeachotherandpeasantsinfurcloakswithoutsleevesandintightslikeprincessatonrocksandplayedpipesandtheskywasblue,themountainscoveredwithsnowandthefieldsandhillsfullofpurplebushesandyellowandblueflowersandsheep——Therewasacablestationofyellowadobe。ItwastheonlybuildinganditlookedacrossatPrevesabutnobodybombarded。Thegeneralgavemecognacandthecableoperatorplayedaguitarformeandthepreyorsangafinebass,thecorporalnottobeoutdonegavemechocolateandthearmystoodaroundinthesunandjoinedintheconversationcorrectingthegeneralandeachotherandtakingofftheirhatstoallthenoblesentimentswetoasted。Itwasjustlikeacomicopera。
  AfterawhilewhenIhadfinishedafinehunckofcheeseandhardeggsandbrownbreadItookaphotographoftheGeneralandthecableoperatorandtheofficerwiththebassvoiceandhalfofthearmy——Theotherhalfwasthensenttoescortmetothisplace。ItwalkedandIrodeandthereweremanyhaltsfordrinksandcigarettes。Theyallranafterastraycoltandwerelostforsometimebutwere-mobilizedandadvancedwithgreateffectintothistown。Iwasheretakeninchargebyatleastfiftysailorsandasmanysoldiersandcomicoperabrigandsindrawersandwhitepetticoats,whoconductedmetoahouseonthehillwheretheinnkeeperbroughtmealivechickentoapproveoffordinner。
  ThenthemayorofthetownturnedupingoldclothesandBarrisonSisterskirtsandsaidtheGeneralhadtelegraphedaboutmeandthatIwashis——Theinnkeeperweptandsaidhehadseenmefirstandthechorusofsoldiers,sailorsandbrigandsalljoinedin。IkeptoutofitbutIknewtheMayorwouldwinandhedid。Thenwewentouttoaman-of-warthesizeoftheVagabondandweresolemnlyassuredtherewouldbebombardingofPrevesato-morrow——Igotosleepinthathope。WeleavehereatsevencrossingtheriverandrideaftertheGreekswhoareapproachingPrevesafromthelandsidewhilethemen-of-warbombarditfromtheriver。Atleastthatiswhattheysay。IthinkitisthemildestwaronbothsidesIeverheardofandIcertainlymeantobeaTimescorrespondentnexttimeIplayatgoingtowar——AfterbeinginsultedandfrightenedtodeathalloverCuba,thisisthepleasantestpicnicIwaseveron——TheyseriouslyapologizedfornotbombardingwhileIwasthereandIsaidnottomentionit——Withlotsoflove,oldman,andtothefamilyDICK。
  FLORENCE
  May16,1897。
  DEARFAMILY:
  HereIamsafeandsoundagainintheoldroomsinFlorence。
  Iwasgonetwenty-threedaysandwastravelingnineteenofthem,walking,riding;insailboats,inthecars,andonsteamers。IhavehadmoreexperiencesandadventuresthanI
  everhadbeforeinthreemonthsandquiteenoughtolastmeforyears。
  AftermyhappyridethroughTurkeyandtheretreatoftheGreekarmyinArta,ofwhichIwroteyoulast,IhavebeeninThessalywhereIsawthetwodays'battleofVelestinosfromthebeginninguptotheend。ItwastheonerealbattleofthewarandtheGreeksfoughtwellfromthefirsttothelast。
  IleftAthensonthe29thofAprilwithJohnBass,aHarvardgraduate,andamostcharmingandattractiveyouthwhois,orwas,inchargeoftheJournalmen;StephenCranebeingamongthenumber。Heseemsageniuswithnoresponsibilitiesofanysorttoanyone,andIandBasslefthimatVelestinosaftertravelingwithhimforfourdays。CranewenttoVolo,asdideveryothercorrespondent,leavingBassandmyselfinVelestinos。Asthevillagershadrunaway,weburglarizedthehouseofthemayorandmadeitourhabitationwhilethecourierhuntedforfood。Itwaslike"TheSwissFamilyRobinson,"andwerejoicedoverthediscoveryofsoapandtableclothsandstrayknivesandforks,justasthoughwehadbeencastonadesertisland。BassdidthecookingandIlaidthetableandwashedupandmadethebeds,whichwerefulloffleas。Butwehadbeensleepingonchairsandonthefloorforaweeksowedidnotmindmuch。
  Theseconddaywewereawakenedbycannonandyoucanimagineourjoyandexcitement。Wehaditalltoourselvesforeighthours,asittooktheothercorrespondentsthatlongtoarrive。Itwasanartilleryandinfantrybattleandabout20,000menwereengagedonbothsides。TheGreeksfoughtfromlittletrenchesonthehillsbackofthetownandtheTurksadvancedacrossagreatgreenprairie。Itwasverylongrangeandonlytwicedidtheygettowithinaquarterofamileofourtrenches。BassandIwentallovertheGreeklines,foryouwerejustassafeinoneplaceasinanother,whichmeansthatitwasn'tsafeanywhere,sowegaveupconsideringthatandfollowedthefightasbestwecouldfromthefirsttrench,whichwastheonlyonethatgaveanuninterruptedviewoftheTurkishforces。Itwasabrilliantlycleardaybutopenedwithahailstorm,whichenabledtheTurkstocrawluphalfamileinthesuddendarkness。ItalsogavemetheworstattackofsciaticaIeverhad。Fortunately,itdidnotcomeonbadlyuntilIreachedVolo,whenitsuddenlytookholdofmesothatIcouldnotwalk。Thetrencheswerewetwiththerainandwehadnoclothestochangeto,andtwomoreshowerskeptusmoreorlesswetallday。WehadafineviewofeverythingandI
  learnedalot。
  Wewereunderaheavyfireforthirteenhoursandcertainlyhadsomeverycloseescapes。Attimesthefiringwassofiercethatifyouhadraisedyourarmaboveyourhead,thehandwouldhavebeeninstantlytornoff。Wehadtolieonourstomachswithourchinsinthedirtandnotsomuchasbudge。
  ThiswaswhentheTurkishfirehappenedtobedirectedonourtrench。Atsuchtimesalltheothertrencheswouldfiresoastodrawtheattackaway,andwewouldhavetowaituntilitwasover。Theshellssoundedlikethejarringsoundoftelegraphwireswhenonehitsthepoletheyhangfromwithastone;andwhentheshellswereclosetheysoundedlikethenoisemadebytwotrainspassinginoppositedirectionswhenthewindisdrivenbetweenthecars。Thebulletsweremuchworsethantheshellsasyoucouldalwayshearthemcoming,andthebulletsslippedupandpassedyouinasneakingwaywithanoiselikerustlingsilk,orifsomeonehadtornasilkhandkerchiefwithasharppull。Oneshellstruckthreefeetfrommeandknockedmeoverwiththedirtandstonesandfilledmynoseandmouthwithpebbles。Iwentbackanddugitoutofthegroundwhileitwasstillhotandhaveitasasouvenir。IsworeterriblyatthebulletsandBassusedtogrininasicklyway。Itmadeyourhaircreepwhentheycameveryclose。Onemannextmegotashotthroughthebreastwhilehewasramminghiscleanerdownthebarrel,andtherewerethreekilledwithinthelimitsofourfiftyyards。Wecouldnotgetbackbecausetherewasacrossfirethatsweptaplacewehadtopassthrough,justaboutthewaythewindcomesaroundtheCityHallinthetimesofablizzard。WecalleditDeadMan'sCurve,afterthatatFourteenthStreetandUnionSquare,becauseitwassprinkledwithdeadammunition,mulesandsoldiers。Wecamethroughitthefirsttimewithoutknowingwhatweweregettingintoandwehadnodesiretogobackagain。Sowewaiteduntilthesunset。Itooksomeofthefinestphotographsandprobablytheonlyonesevertakenofabattleatsuchcloserange。
  Wheneverthemenfired,IwouldshootoffthecameraandI
  expectIhavesomeprettygreatpictures。BasstooksomeofmesoifthereisanyquestionastowhetherIwasattheCoronation,therewillbenoneastowhetherIwasatVelestinos。
  Ourhousewashitwithtwoshellsandbulletsfelllikethegentlerainfromheavenalloverthecourtyard,sowewouldhavebeennosafertherethanbehindthetrenches。Wesentoffthefirstaccountofthebattlewrittenbyanybodybymidday,andstayedonuntilthenextdayatfourwhentheplacewasevacuatedingoodorderbecause,asusual,theCrownPrincewasrunningaway——fromPharsaliathistime。
  TheysayinGreece"Lewes,thepeasant,wontheracefromMarathon,butConstantinetheprince,wontheracefromLarissa。"
  IwasallrightuntilIgottoVolowhenmyrightlegrefusedabsolutelytodoitsactandIhadtobecarriedonadonkey。
  AGreekthoughtIlookedfunnysittinggroaningonthelittledonkey;whichIdid——Ilookedridiculous。Sohelaughed,andBassandaFrenchjournalistbattedhimoverthefaceandleftmeclingingtothedonkey'sneckandhowlingtothemtocomebackandholdmeup。Buttheypreferredtofight,andapolicemancamealongandarrestedtheunhappyGreekandbeathimoverthehead,justforluck,andmarchedhimofftojail,justforlaughing。
  Theytookmetothehospitalshipwhichwasstarting,andI
  cametoAthensthatwaywithonehundredandsixteenwounded;
  themanonmyrighthadhisanklesgoneandthemanonthelefthadabulletinhisside。TheygroanedallnightandsodidI。Thenwhenthesunrosetheysang,whichwasworse。I
  neversawanythingmorebeautifulthanthered-crossnurses,andIguessthatisthemostbeautifulpictureIshalleversee——thosesweet-facedgirlsinblueandwhitebendingoverthedirtyfrightenedlittlepeasantboysandtakingcareoftheirwounds。Imadelovetoallofthemandaskedthreetomarryme。IwasinbedfortwodaysafterIgottoAthensbuthadafinetime,asalltheofficersfromtheSanFrancisco,fromtheadmiraldown,cametoseeme,andtheminister,consulandtherestdidallthatcouldhavebeendone。IamnowallrightandwasbicyclinginthedearoldCascinethismorning。Onthewholeitwasamostsuccessfultrip。
  SylvesterScovelandPhillipsofTheWorldarrivedjustasitwasallover,andsoBassandIareabouttheonlytwoAmericanswhowereinit。
  ThetrainfromBrindisistoppedatRomeonthewaybackandI
  wenttoseethePages。TheytookmeoutandshowedmeRomebymoonlightinonehour。Itwaslikeacinematograph。Theyareherenowandcomingtodinnertonight。Lastnighttheconsulhadallourfriendstodinnertowelcomemeback,andmaybeI
  wasnotglad。Ihadbeenlivingoncheeseandbrownbreadandcoldlambfortwoweeks,withnotobacco,andsleepingfivehoursanightonfloorsandsofas。Sometimestheofficersandmenfoughtforfood,andwenevergotanythingwarmtoeatexceptoccasionallytinnedthingswhichwecookedinmykit。
  ItwasthemostsatisfactorytripallroundIeverhad。I
  havebeentwentyyearstryingtobeinabattleanditwillbetwentyyearsmorebeforeIwillwanttobeinanother。
  OntheeighteenthIstartforLondon,stoppingonedayinParistoseetheClarksandEustises。ItisgoingtobebiggerthantheCoronationforcrowds,andMotherneednotworry,Ishallkeepoutofit。TheMinistertoRussiasentmewordthattheCzar'sprimeministerhasgivenhimmyarticleandthattheCzarsaidthankhimverymuch。Sothatisallright。AlsoHayistopresentmetothePrinceattheleveeonthe3tstofMay,andIshallsendhimacopy,too。IamlookingforwardtoLondonwithsuchjoy。TellMothertosendmetheBookbuyerwithherarticleinit。Ihaveonlyreadthereviewsofit,andtheyaresoenthusiasticthatImusthavethewholethingquick。ItwassuchafinethingtodoaboutPoe,andtogivethoseothertwofetishesthecoupdegrace。ItreadssplendidlyandIwantitall。WhatdidDadthinkoftheInaugurationarticle?IsendyouallmydearestloveandwillhavelotstotellyouwhenIgetbackthistime。
  Godblessyouall。
  DICK。
  RichardleftFlorencethelatterpartofMay,andwenttoLondonwherehehadmadearrangementstoreporttheQueen'sJubilee。HebeganhisroundofgayetiesbybeingpresentedatCourt。TheMissGrovesandMissWathertowhomherefersinthefollowingletterweretheclerksatCox'shotel。
  LONDON,June2nd,1897。
  DEARFAMILY:
  IwasabeautifulsightattheLevee。IworeavelvetsuitmadeespeciallyformebutnodearerforthatandsteelbuttonsandabeautifulsteelswordandacourthatwithsilveronthesideandsilkstockingsthatIworeatMoscowandpumpswithgreatbuckles。Iwastoomagnificentforwordsandsoyouwouldhavesaid。IwaitedalongtimeinalonghallcrowdedwithgeneralsandseacaptainsandhighlandersandvolunteersandcavalrymenandjudgesandfinallywasadmittedpastaropeandthenpastanotherropeandthenrushedalongintothethroneroomwhereIsawbeefeatersandlifeguardsmenandchamberlainswithwhitewandsandIgaveonemycardandhereadout"R。H。D。oftheUnitedStatesbytheAmericanAmbassador"andthenIbowedtothePrinceandDukeofYork,ConnaughtandEdinburghandtotheAmericanAmbassadorandthenHenryWhiteandSpencerEddy,thetwoSecretariesandthenavalattacheallshookhandswithmeandIwentaroundinahansominthebrightsunshineinhopesoffindingsomeonewhowouldknowme。ButnoonedidsoIwenttoCox'sHotelandshowedmyselftoMissGrovesandMissWather。I
  wentontheTerraceyesterdaywiththeLeitersandatO'Connor'sinvitationbroughtthemtotea。LaboucherewasthereandDillonjustoutofjailanditwasmostinteresting。Iamvery,verybusydoingnothingandhavingafinetime——
  DICK。
  LONDON,June21,1897。
  DEARMOTHER:
  WordscannottellatleastnotunlessIamwellpaidforitwhatLondonisliketo-day。Inthefirstplaceitissojammedthatnoonecanmoveanditishungwithdecorationssothatnoonecansee。RoyalcarriagesgetstuckjustasdothehumbledraymanorPickford'sVanandroyaltiesarelodgingincheaphotelswithnothingbutacoupleofGrenadier'sinsentryboxestoshowtheyareanybetterbloodedthantherestofthelodgers。IalsoaddedtotheconfusionbygivingalunchtotheAmbassadorandMissHayinreturnforthepresentation。LadyHenryandMrs。AsquithsatoneithersideofhimandMrs。ClarkhadAsquithandLordBasilBlackwoodtotalkto——TherewasalsoAnthonyHope,thebeautifulJuliaNeilsonandherhusbandFredTerryandLadyEdwardCecilandLordLester——ItwentofffineandtheSavoypeoplesentinanAmericanEagleofice,decoratedwithAmericanflagsanddrippingicytearsfromitsbeak。Itcostmefiveshillingsaheadandlookedasthoughitcostthatinpounds——TonightI
  dinewiththeGouldsandthengotoamusicalwhereMelbasings,PadewreskiplaysandthenwalkthestreetsifIcanuntildaybreakasIthinkofmakingthenightbeforetheprocessionthegreaterpartofthestory。Isendyouaplanshowingmyseatwhichcostmetwenty-fivedollars,theadvertisedpricebeing$125。buttherehasbeenaterribleslumpinseats。LovetodearDadandNora。
  DICK。
  LONDON。
  89JermynStreet,June25th,1897。
  DEARMOTHER:
  TheJubileeturnedouttobetheeasiestspectacletogetatandtogetawayfromthatIeverwitnessed。Experienceinchoosingaplaceandpoliceregulationsmadeitsosimplethatwewentstraighttoourseatsandgotawayagainwithoutasmuchtroubleasitwouldhavetakentohavegonetoamatinee。
  Thestagemanagementofthethingalmostimpressedmemorethananythingelse。ForgrandeurandshowitaboutequalledtheprocessionoftheCzarandinmanywaysitwasmoreinterestingbecauseitwasconcernedwithourownpeopleandwithourownpartoftheworld。NexttotheQueen,LordRobertsgotalloftheapplause。HerodealittlewhiteponythathadbeenwithhiminsixcampaignsandhadcarriedhimonhismarchtoCandahar。IthadallthecampaignmedalspresentedtoitbytheWarDepartmentandworetheminalineonitsforehead,andwalkedjustasthoughheknewwhatagreatoccasionitwas。AfterRobertscameinpopularityaCol。MauriceCliffordwiththeRhodesianHorseinsombrero'sandcartridgebeltsandkhakisuits。Hehadlosthisarmandwaseasilyrecognized。WilfredLauriertheFrenchPremierofCanadaandtheLordMayorweretheotherfavourites。ThesceneinfrontofSt。Paul'swasabsolutelymagnificentwiththesootypillarsbehindthegroupsofdiplomats,bishopsandchoirboysinwhite,Universitymeninpinksilkgowns,andsoldiers,beefeaters,gentlemenatarmsandthetwoArchbishops。Thebestmomentwaswhenthecollectedtroops;negroes,Chinamen,EastIndians,WestIndians,Africantroopers,CanadianMountedPolice,Australians,BorneopoliceandEnglishGrenadiersallsangthedoxologytogetherinthebeautifulsunshineandundertheshadowofthatgreatfacadeofblackandwhitemarble。AlsowhentheArchbishopofCanterburywithoutanywarningsuddenlyafterkissingtheQueen'shandthrewuphisarmandcriedoutsothatyoucouldhaveheardhimahundredyardsoff"ThreeCheersforHerMajesty"andthediplomats,andforeignrajahsandbishopsandSalvationArmycaptainswavedtheirhatsandmortarboardsandthesoldiersrantheirbearskinsandhelmetsontheirbayonetsandspunthemaroundintheair。Theweatherwasabsolutelyperfectandtherewerenoaccidents。