Inwinterthepeasantsoftencomewithshovels，pickaxes，andhorsestofetchthedoctor。Theythengobeforehim，andhastilyrepairtheworstpartoftheroad；whilethedoctorridessometimesononehorse，sometimesonanother，thattheymaynotsinkunderthefatigue。Andthustheprocessiontravelsformany，manymiles，throughnightandfog，throughstormandsnow，foronthedoctor'spromptitudelifeanddeathoftenhang。Whenhethenreturns，quitebenumbed，andhalfdeadwithcold，tothebosomofhisfamily，intheexpectationofrestandrefreshment，andtorejoicewithhisfriendsoverthedangersandhardshipshehasescaped，thepoordoctorisfrequentlycompelledtosetoffatonceonanewandimportantjourney，beforehehasevenhadtimetogreetthedearonesathome。
Sometimesheissentforbysea，wherethedangerisstillgreateronthestorm-tostelement。
Thoughthesalaryofthemedicalmenisnotatallproportionatetothehardshipstheyarecalledupontoundergo，itisstillfarbetterthanthatofthepriests。
Thesmallestlivingsbringinsixtoeightflorinsannually，therichest200florins。Besidesthis，thegovernmentsuppliesforeachpriestahouse，oftennotmuchbetterthanapeasant'scottage，afewmeadows，andsomecattle。Thepeasantsarealsorequiredtogivecertainsmallcontributionsinthewayofhay，wool，fish，&c。
Thegreaternumberofpriestsaresopoor，thattheyandtheirfamiliesdressexactlylikethepeasants，fromwhomtheycanscarcelybedistinguished。Theclergyman'swifelooksafterthecattle，andmilkscowsandeweslikeamaid-servant；whileherhusbandproceedstothemeadow，andmowsthegrasswiththelabourer。Theintercourseofthepastoriswhollyconfinedtothesocietyofpeasants；andthisconstitutesthechiefelementofthat"patriarchallife"whichsomanytravellersdescribeascharming。I
shouldliketoknowwhichofthemwouldwishtoleadsuchalife!
Thepoorpriesthas，besides，frequentlytoofficiateintwo，three，orevenfourdistricts，distantfromfourtotwelvemilesfromhisresidence。EverySundayhemustdodutyatoneorotherofthesedistricts，takingtheminturn，sothatdivineserviceisonlyperformedateachplaceonceineverythreeorfourweeks。Thejourneysofthepriest，however，arenotconsideredquitesonecessaryasthoseofthedoctor；foriftheweatherisverybadonSundays，particularlyduringthewinter，hecanomitvisitingthemostdistantplaces。Thisisdonethemorereadily，asbutfewofthepeasantswouldbeatchurch；allwholivedatadistanceremainingathome。
TheSysselmannanofficersimilartothatofthesheriffofacountyisthebestoff。Hehasagoodsalarywithlittletodo，andinsomeplacesenjoysinadditionthe"strand-right，"whichisattimesnoinconsiderableprivilege，fromthequantityofdrifttimberwashedashorefromtheAmericancontinent。
Fishingandthechaseareopentoall，withtheexceptionofthesalmon-fisheriesintherivers；thesearefarmedbythegovernment。
Eider-duckswaynotbeshot，underpenaltyofafine。Thereisnomilitaryservice，forthroughoutthewholeislandnosoldiersarerequired。EvenReikjavikitselfboastsonlytwopolice-officers。
Commerceisalsofree；buttheislanderspossesssolittlecommercialspirit，thateveniftheyhadthenecessarycapital，theywouldneverembarkinspeculation。
ThewholecommerceofIcelandthusliesinthehandsofDanishmerchants，whosendtheirshipstotheislandeveryyear，andhaveestablishedfactoriesinthedifferentportswheretheretailtradeiscarriedon。
TheseshipsbringeverythingtoIceland，corn，wood，wines，manufacturedgoods，andcolonialproduce，&c。Theimportsarefree，foritwouldnotpaythegovernmenttoestablishoffices，andgiveservantssalariestocollectdutiesuponthesmallamountofproducerequiredfortheisland。Wine，andinfactallcolonialproduce，arethereforemuchcheaperthaninothercountries。
Theexportsconsistoffish，particularlysaltedcod，fish-roe，tallow，train-oil，eider-down，andfeathersofotherbirds，almostequaltoeider-downinsoftness，sheep'swool，andpickledorsaltedlamb。Withtheexceptionofthearticlesjustenumerated，theIcelanderspossessnothing；thirteenyearsago，whenHerrKnudsonestablishedabakehouse，{31}hewascompelledtobringfromCopenhagen，notonlythebuilder，buteventhematerialsforbuilding，stones，lime，&c。；foralthoughtheislandaboundswithmassesofstone，therearenonewhichcanbeusedforbuildinganoven，orwhichcanbeburntintolime:everythingisoflava。
Twoorthreecottagessituatedneareachotherareheredignifiedbythenameofa"place。"Theseplaces，aswellastheseparatecottages，aremostlybuiltonlittleacclivities，surroundedbymeadows。Themeadowsareoftenfencedinwithwallsofstoneorearth，twoorthreefeetinheight，topreventthecows，sheep，andhorsesfromtrespassinguponthemtograze。Thegrassofthesemeadowsismadeintohay，andlaidupasawinterprovisionforthecows。
Ididnothearmanycomplaintsoftheseverityofthecoldinwinter；thetemperatureseldomsinkstotwentydegreesbelowzero；
theseaissometimesfrozen，butonlyafewfeetfromtheshore。
Thesnowstormsandtempests，however，areoftensoviolent，thatitisalmostimpossibletoleavethehouse。Daylightlastsonlyforfiveorsixhours，andtosupplyitsplacethepoorIcelandershaveonlythenorthernlight，whichissaidtoilluminethelongnightswithabrilliancytrulymarvellous。
ThesummerIpassedinIcelandwasoneofthefinesttheinhabitantshadknownforyears。DuringthemonthofJunethethermometeroftenroseatnoontotwentydegrees。Theinhabitantsfoundthisheatsoinsupportable，thattheycomplainedofbeingunabletoworkortogoonmessagesduringtheday-time。Onsuchwarmdaystheywouldonlybegintheirhay-makingintheevening，andcontinuedtheirworkhalfthenight。
Thechangesintheweatherareveryremarkable。Twentydegreesofheatononedaywouldbefollowedbyrainonthenext，withatemperatureofonlyfivedegrees；andonthe5thofJune，ateighto'clockinthemorning，thethermometerstoodatonedegreebelowzero。ItisalsocuriousthatthunderstormshappeninIcelandinwinter，andaresaidnevertooccurduringthesummer。
Fromthe16thor18thofJunetotheendofthemonththereisnonight。Thesunappearsonlytoretireforashorttimebehindamountain，andformssunsetandmorning-dawnatthesametime。Asononesidethelastbeamfadesaway，theorbofdayre-appearsattheoppositeonewithredoubledsplendour。
DuringmystayinIceland，fromthe15thofMaytothe29thofJuly，Ineverretiredtorestbeforeeleveno'clockatnight，andneverrequiredacandle。InMay，andalsointhelatterportionofthemonthofJuly，therewastwilightforanhourortwo，butitneverbecamequitedark。Evenduringthelastdaysofmystay，Icouldreaduntilhalf-pastteno'clock。Atfirstitappearedstrangetometogotobedinbroaddaylight；butIsoonaccustomedmyselftoit，andwheneleveno'clockcame，nosunlightwaspowerfulenoughtocheatmeofmysleep。Ifoundmuchpleasureinwalkingatnight，atpastteno'clock，notinthepalemoonshine，butinthebroadblazeofthesun。
Itwasamuchmoredifficulttasktoaccustommyselftothediet。
Thebaker'swifewasfullycompetenttosuperintendthecookingaccordingtotheDanishandIcelandicschoolsoftheart；butunfortunatelythesemodesofcookerydifferwidelyfromours。Onethingonlywasgood，themorningcupofcoffeewithcream，withwhichthemostaccomplishedgourmandcouldhavefoundnofault:
sincemydeparturefromIcelandIhavenotfoundsuchcoffee。I
couldhavewishedforsomeofmydearViennesefriendstobreakfastwithme。Thecreamwassothick，thatIatfirstthoughtmyhostesshadmisunderstoodme，andbroughtmecurds。ThebuttermadefromthemilkofIcelandiccowsandewesdidnotlookveryinviting，andwasaswhiteaslard，butthetastewasgood。TheIcelanders，however，findthetastenotsufficiently"piquant，"andgenerallyqualifyitwithtrain-oil。Altogether，train-oilplaysaveryprominentpartintheIcelandickitchen；thepeasantconsidersitamostdeliciousarticle，andthinksnothingofdevouringaquantityofitwithoutbread，orindeedanythingelse。{32}
Ididnotatallrelishthedietatdinner；thismealconsistedoftwodishes，namely，boiledfish，withvinegarandmeltedbutterinsteadofoil，andboiledpotatoes。UnfortunatelyIamnoadmireroffish，andnowthiswasmydailyfood。Ah，howIlongedforbeef-
soup，apieceofmeat，andvegetables，invain!AslongasI
remainedinIceland，IwascompelledquitetogiveupmyGermansystemofdiet。
AfteratimeIgotonwellenoughwiththeboiledfishandpotatoes，butIcouldnotmanagethedelicaciesoftheisland。WorthyMadameBernhoft，itwassokindlymeantonherpart；anditwassurelynotherfaultthatthesystemofcookeryinIcelandisdifferentfromours；butIcouldnotbringmyselftoliketheIcelandicdelicacies。
Theywereofdifferentkinds，consistingsometimesoffishes，hard-
boiledeggs，andpotatoeschoppeduptogether，coveredwithathickbrownsauce，andseasonedwithpepper，sugar，andvinegar；atothers，ofpotatoesbakedinbutterandsugar。Anotherdelicacywascabbagechoppedverysmall，renderedverythinbytheadditionofwater，andsweetenedwithsugar；theaccompanyingdishwasapieceofcuredlamb，whichhadaveryunpleasant"pickled"flavour。
OnSundayswesometimeshad"ProtheGrutze，"properlyaScandinaviandish，composedoffinesagoboiledtoajelly，withcurrant-juiceorredwine，andeatenwithcreamorsugar。Tapfen，akindofsoftcheese，isalsosometimeseatenwithcreamandsugar。
InthemonthsofJuneandJulythedietimprovedmaterially。Wecouldoftenprocuresplendidsalmon，sometimesroastlamb，andnowandthenbirds，amongwhichlatterdaintiesthesnipeswereparticularlygood。Intheeveningcamebutter，cheese，coldfish，smokedlamb，andeggsofeider-ducks，whicharecoarserthanhen'seggs。IntimeIbecamesoaccustomedtothiskindoffood，thatI
nolongermissedeithersouporbeef，andfeltuncommonlywell。
Mydrinkwasalwaysclearfreshwater；thegentlemenbegantheirdinnerwithasmallglassofbrandy，andduringthemealalldrankbeerofHerrBernhoft'sownbrewing，whichwasverygood。OnSundays，abottleofportorBordeauxsometimesmadeitsappearanceatourtable；andaswefaredatHerrBernhoft's，soitwasthecustominthehousesofallthemerchantsandofficials。
AtReikjavikIhadanopportunityofwitnessingagreatreligiousceremony。Threecandidatesoftheologywereraisedtotheministerialoffice。ThoughthewholecommunityhereisLutheran，theceremoniesdifferinmanyrespectsfromthoseofthecontinentofEurope，andIwillthereforegiveashortsketchofwhatIsaw。
Thesolemnitybeganatnoon，andlastedtillfouro'clock。I
noticedatoncethatallthepeoplecoveredtheirfacesforamomentonenteringthechurch，themenwiththeirhats，andthewomenwiththeirhandkerchiefs。Mostofthecongregationsatwiththeirfacesturnedtowardsthealtar；butthisrulehaditsexceptions。Thevestmentsofthepriestswerethesameasthosewornbyourclergymen，andthecommencementoftheservicealsocloselyresembledtheritualofourownChurch；butsoonthisresemblanceceased。Thebishopsteppeduptothealtarwiththecandidates，andperformedcertainceremonies；thenonewouldmountthepulpitandreadpartofasermon，orsingapsalm，whiletheotherclergymensatroundonchairs，andappearedtolisten；thenasecondandathirdascendedthepulpit，andafterwardsanothersermonwaspreachedfromthealtar，andanotherpsalmsung；thenasermonwasagainreadfromthepulpit。Whileceremonieswereperformedatthealtar，thesacerdotalgarmentswereoftenputonandtakenoffagain。Ifrequentlythoughttheservicewascomingtoaclose，butitalwaysbeganafresh，andlasted，asIsaidbefore，untilfouro'clock。Thenumberofformssurprisedmegreatly，astheritualoftheLutheranChurchisingeneralexceedinglysimple。
Onthisoccasionaconsiderablenumberofthecountrypeoplewereassembled，andIhadthusagoodopportunityofnoticingtheircostumes。Thedresseswornbythewomenandgirlsareallmadeofcoarseblackwoollenstuffs。Thedressconsistsofalongskirt，aspencer，andacolouredapron。Ontheirheadstheywearaman'snightcapofblackcloth，thepointturneddownwards，andterminatinginalargetasselofwoolorsilk，whichhangsdowntotheshoulder。
Theirhairisunbound，andreachesonlytotheshoulder:someofthewomenwearitslightlycurled。Iinvoluntarilythoughtofthepoeticaldescriptionsofthenorthernromancers，whogrowenthusiasticinpraiseofideal"angels'headswithgoldentresses。"
Thehairiscertainlyworninthismannerhere，andourpoetsmayhaveborrowedtheirdescriptionsfromtheScandinavians。Butthebeautifulfaceswhicharesaidtobeamforthfromamongthosegoldenlocksexistonlyinthepoet'svividimagination。
Ornamentaladditionstothecostumeareveryrare。InthewholeassemblyIonlynoticedfourwomenwhoweredresseddifferentlyfromtheothers。Thecordswhichfastenedtheirspencers，andalsotheirgirdles，wereornamentedwithagarlandworkedinsilverthread。
Theirskirtswereoffineblackcloth，anddecoratedwithaborderofcolouredsilkafewinchesbroad。Roundtheirneckstheyworeakindofstiffcollarofblackvelvetwithaborderofsilverthread，andontheirheadsablacksilkhandkerchiefwithaverystrangeaddition。Thisappendageconsistedofahalf-moonfastenedtothebackofthehead，andextendingfiveorsixinchesabovetheforehead。Itwascoveredwithwhitelawnarrangedinfolds；itsbreadthatthebackoftheheaddidnotexceedaninchandahalf，butinfrontitwidenedtofiveorsixinches。
Themen，Ifound，wereclothedalmostlikeourpeasants。Theyworesmall-clothesofdarkcloth，jacketsandwaistcoats，felthats，orfurcaps；andinsteadofbootsakindofshoeofox-hide，sheep，orseal-skin，boundtothefeetbyaleatherstrap。Thewomen，andeventhechildrenoftheofficials，allwearshoesofthisdescription。
ItwasveryseldomthatImetpeoplesowretchedlyandpoorlycladaswefindthembuttooofteninthelargecontinentaltowns。I
neversawanyonewithoutgoodwarmshoesandstockings。
Thebetterclasses，suchasmerchants，officials，&c。aredressedintheFrenchstyle，andratherfashionably。Thereisnolackofsilkandothercostlystuffs。SomeofthesearebroughtfromEngland，butthegreaterpartcomefromDenmark。
Ontheking'sbirthday，whichiskepteveryyearatthehouseoftheStiftsamtmann，thefestivitiesaresaidtobeverygrand；onthisoccasionthematronsappeararrayedinsilk，andthemaidensinwhitejaconet；theroomsarelightedwithwaxtapers。
SomespeculativegeniusorotherhasalsoestablishedasortofclubinReikjavik。Hehas，namely，hiredacoupleofrooms，wherethetownspeoplemeetofaneveningtodiscuss"tea-water，"breadandbutter，andsometimesevenabottleofwineorabowlofpunch。Inwintertheproprietorgivesballsintheseapartments，charging20
kr。foreachticketofadmission。Herethetowngrandeesandthehandicraftsmen，infactallwhochoosetocome，assemble；andtheballissaidtobeconductedinaveryrepublicanspirit。TheshoemakerleadsforththewifeoftheStiftsamtmanntothedance，whilethatofficialhimselfhasperhapschosenthewifeordaughteroftheshoemakerorbakerforhispartner。Therefreshmentsconsistof"tea-water"andbreadandbutter，andtheroomislightedwithtallowcandles。Themusic，consistingofakindofthree-stringedviolinandapipe，issaidtobeexquisitelyhorrible。
Insummerthedignitariesmakefrequentexcursionsonhorse-back；
andontheseoccasionsgreatcareistakenthattherebenolackofprovisions。Commonlyeachpersoncontributesashare:somebringwine，otherscake；others，again，coffee，andsoon。TheladiesusefineEnglishside-saddles，andwearelegantriding-habits，andprettyfelthatswithgreenveils。Thesejaunts，however，areconfinedtoReikjavik；for，asIhavealreadyobserved，thereis，withtheexceptionofthistown，noplaceinIcelandcontainingmorethantwoorthreestoresandsomehalf-dozencottages。
Tomygreatsurprise，Ifoundnolessthansixsquarepiano-fortesbelongingtodifferentfamiliesinReikjavik，andheardwaltzesbyourfavouritecomposers，besidesvariationsofHerz，andsomepiecesofLiszt，Wilmers，andThalberg。Butsuchplaying!Idonotthinkthatthesetalentedcomposerswouldhaverecognisedtheirownworks。
Inconclusion，Imustofferafewremarksrelativetothetravellinginthiscountry。
ThebesttimetochooseforthispurposeisfromthemiddleofJunetotheendofAugustatlatest。UntilJunetheriversaresoswollenandturbulent，byreasonofthemeltingsnows，astorenderitverydangeroustoridethroughthem。Thetravellermustalsopassovermanyafieldofsnownotyetmeltedbythesun，andfrequentlyconcealingchasmsandmassesoflava；andthisisattendedwithdangeralmostasgreat。Ateveryfootstepthetravellersinksintothesnow；andhemaythankhisluckystarsifthewholerottensurfacedoesnotgiveway。InSeptembertheviolentstormsofwindandraincommence，andheavyfallsofsnowmaybeexpectedfromdaytoday。
Atent，provisions，cookingutensils，pillows，bed-clothes，andwarmgarments，arehighlynecessaryforthewayfarer'scomfort。Thisparaphernaliawouldhavebeentooexpensiveformetobuy，andIwasunprovidedwithanythingofthekind；consequentlyIwasforcedtoendurethemostdreadfulhardshipsandtoil，andwasfrequentlyobligedtorideanimmensedistancetoreachalittlechurchoracottage，whichwouldaffordmeshelterforthenight。Mysolefoodforeightortendaystogetherwasoftenbreadandcheese；andI
generallypassedthenightuponachestorabench，wherethecoldwouldoftenpreventmyclosingmyeyesallnight。
Itisadvisabletobeprovidedwithawaterproofcloakandasailor'starpaulinhat，asadefenceagainsttherain，whichfrequentlyfalls。Anumbrellawouldbetotallyuseless，astherainisgenerallyaccompaniedbyastorm，or，atanyrate，byastrongwind；whenweaddtothis，thatitisnecessaryinsomeplacestoridequickly，itwilleasilybeseenthatholdinganumbrellaopenisathingnottobethoughtof。
AltogetherIfoundthetravellinginthiscountryattendedwithfarmorehardshipthanintheEast。Formypart，Ifoundthedreadfulstormsofwind，thepiercingair，thefrequentrain，andthecold，muchlessendurablethantheOrientalheat，whichnevergavemeeithercrackedlipsorcausedscalestoappearonmyface。InIcelandmylipsbegantobleedonthefifthday；andafterwardstheskincameoffmyfaceinscales，asifIhadhadthescrofula。
Anothersourceofgreatdiscomfortistobefoundinthelongriding-habit。Itisrequisitetobeverywarmlyclad；andtheheavyskirts，oftendrippingwithrain，coilthemselvesroundthefeetofthewearerinsuchamanner，astorenderherexceedinglyawkwardeitherinmountingordismounting。Theworsthardshipofall，however，isthebeingobligedtohalttorestthehorsesinameadowduringtherain。Thelongskirtssuckupthewaterfromthedampgrass，andthewearerhasoftenliterallynotadrystitchinallhergarments。
Heatandcoldappearinthiscountrytoaffectstrangersinaremarkabledegree。Thecoldseemedtomemorepiercing，andtheheatmoreoppressiveinIceland，thanwhenthethermometerstoodatthesamepointsinmynativeland。
Insummertheroadsaremarvellouslygood，sothatonecangenerallyrideataprettyquickpace。Theyare，however，impracticableforvehicles，partlybecausetheyaretoonarrow，andpartlyalsoonaccountofsomeverybadplaceswhichmustoccasionallybeencountered。Onthewholeislandnotasinglecarriageistobefound。
Theroadisonlydangerouswhenitleadsthroughswampsandmoors，oroverfieldsoflava。Amongthesefields，suchasarecoveredwithwhitemossarepeculiarlytobefeared，forthemossfrequentlyconcealsverydangerousholes，intowhichthehorsecaneasilystumble。Inascendinganddescendingthehillsveryformidablespotssometimesopposethetraveller'sprogress。Theroadisattimessohiddenamongswampsandbogs，thatnotatraceofitistobedistinguished，andIcouldonlywonderhowmyguidealwayssucceededinregainingtherightpath。Onecouldalmostsupposethatonthesedangerouspathsbothhorseandmanareguidedbyakindofinstinct。
TravellingismoreexpensiveinIcelandthananywhereelse，particularlywhenonepersontravelsalone，andmustbearalltheexpenseofthebaggage，theguide，ferries，&c。Horsesarenotletoutonhire，theymustbebought。Theyare，however，verycheap；apack-horsecostsfromeighteentotwenty-fourflorins，andariding-
horsefromfortytofiftyflorins。Totravelwithanyideaofcomfortitisnecessarytohaveseveralpack-horses，fortheymustnotbeheavilyladen；andanadditionalservantmustlikewisebehired，astheguideonlylooksafterthesaddle-horses，and，atmost，oneortwoofthepack-horses。Ifthetraveller，attheconclusionofthejourney，wishestosellthehorses，suchawretchedlylowpriceisoffered，thatitisjustaswelltogivethemawayatonce。Thisisaproofofthefactthatmenareeverywherealikereadytofollowuptheiradvantage。Thesepeoplearewellawarethatthehorsesmustbeleftbehindatanyrate，andthereforetheywillnotbidforthem。ImustconfessthatIfoundthecharacteroftheIcelandersineveryrespectbelowtheestimateIhadpreviouslyformedofit，andstillfurtherbelowthestandardgiveninbooks。
Inspiteoftheirscantyfood，theIcelandichorseshaveamarvellouspowerofendurance；theycanoftentravelfromthirty-
fivetofortymilesperdiemforseveralconsecutivedays。Buttheonlydifficultyistokeepthehorsemoving。TheIcelandershaveahabitofcontinuallykickingtheirheelsagainstthepoorbeast'ssides；andthehorseatlastgetssoaccustomedtothismodeoftreatment，thatitwillhardlygoifthestimulusbediscontinued。
Inpassingthebadpiecesofroaditisnecessarytokeepthebridletightinhand，orthehorsewillstumblefrequently。Thisandthecontinualurgingforwardofthehorserenderridingveryfatiguing。
{33}
Notalittleconsiderationiscertainlyrequiredbeforeundertakingajourneyintothefarnorth；butnothingfrightenedme，——andeveninthemidstofthegreatestdangersandhardshipsIdidnotforonemomentregretmyundertaking，andwouldnothaverelinquisheditunderanyconsideration。
ImadeexcursionstoeverypartofIceland，andamthusenabledtoplacebeforemyreaders，inregularorder，thechiefcuriositiesofthisremarkablecountry。IwillcommencewiththeimmediateneighbourhoodofReikjavik。
CHAPTERIV
May25th。
StiftsamtmannvonH-wastodaykindenoughtopaymeavisit，andtoinvitemetojoinhispartyforaridetothegreatlakeVatne。I
gladlyacceptedtheinvitation，for，accordingtothedescriptiongivenbytheStiftsamtmann，IhopedtobeholdaveryEden，andrejoicedattheprospectofobservingtherecreationsofthehigherclasses，andatthesametimegainingmanyacquisitionsinspecimensofplants，butterflies，andbeetles。IresolvedalsototestthecapabilitiesoftheIcelandichorsesmorethoroughlythanIhadbeenabletododuringmyfirstridefromHavenfiordtoReikjavik，asI
hadbeenobligedonthatoccasiontorideatafoot-pace，onaccountofmyoldguide。
Thehourofstartingwasfixedfortwoo'clock。AccustomedasIamtostrictpunctuality，Iwasreadylongbeforetheappointedtime，andattwoo'clockwasabouttohastentotheplaceofrendezvous，whenmyhostessinformedmeIhadplentyoftime，forHerrvonH-
wasstillatdinner。Insteadofmeetingattwoo'clock，wedidnotassembleuntilthree，andeventhenanotherquarterofanhourelapsedbeforethecavalcadestarted。Oh，Syriannotionsofpunctualityanddispatch!Here，almostattheveryantipodes，didI
oncemoregreetye。
Thepartyconsistedofthenobilityandthetowndignitaries。AmongtheformerclassmaybereckonedStiftsamtmannvonH-andhislady；
aprivycouncillor，HerrvonB-，whohadbeensentfromCopenhagentoattendthe"Allthing"politicalassembly；andaDanishbaron，whohadaccompaniedthecouncillor。Inoticedamongthetowndignitariesthedaughterandwifeoftheapothecary，andthedaughtersofsomemerchantsresidenthere。
Ourroadlaythroughfieldsoflava，swamps，andverypoorgrassypatches，inagreatvalley，swellinghereandthereintogentleacclivities，andshutinonthreesidesbyseveralrowsofmountains，toweringupwardsinthemostdiversifiedshapes。Inthefardistanceroseseveraljokulsorglaciers，seemingtolookproudlydownuponthemountains，asthoughtheyasked，"Whywouldyedrawmen'seyesuponyou，whereweglisteninoursilversheen?"IntheseasonoftheyearatwhichIbeheldthem，theglacierswerestillverybeautiful；notonlytheirsummits，buttheirentiresurface，asfarasvisible，beingcoveredwithsnow。Thefourthsideofthevalleythroughwhichwetravelledwaswashedbytheocean，whichmeltedasitwereintothehorizoninimmeasurabledistance。Thecoastwasdottedwithsmallbays，havingtheappearanceofsomanylakes。
Astheroadwasgood，wecouldgenerallyrideforwardatabriskpace。Occasionally，however，wemetwithsmalltractsonwhichtheIcelandichorsecouldexerciseitssagacityandaddress。Myhorsewascarefulandfreefromvice；itcarriedmesecurelyovermassesofstoneandchasmsintherocks，butIcannotdescribethesufferingitstrotcausedme。Itissaidthatridingismostbeneficialtothosewhosufferfromliver-complaints。Thismaybethecase；butIshouldsupposethatanyonewhorodeuponanIcelandichorse，withanIcelandicside-saddle，everydayforthespaceoffourweeks，wouldfind，attheexpirationofthattime，herlivershakentoapulp，andnopartofitremaining。
AlltherestofthepartyhadgoodEnglishsaddles，minealonewasofIcelandicorigin。Itconsistedofachair，withaboardfortheback。Theriderwasobligedtositcrookeduponthehorse，anditwasimpossibletokeepafirmseat。WithmuchdifficultyItrottedaftertheothers，formyhorsewouldnotbeinducedtobreakintoagallop。
Atlength，afterarideofanhourandahalf，wereachedavalley。
InthemidstofatolerablygreenmeadowIdescriedwhatwas，forIceland，afarmofconsiderabledimensions，andnotfarfromthisfarmwasaverysmalllake。IdidnotdaretoaskifthiswastheGREATlakeVatne，orifthiswasthedeliciousprospectIhadbeenpromised，formyquestionwouldhavebeentakenforirony。IcouldnotrefrainfromwonderwhenHerrvonH-beganpraisingthelandscapeasexquisite，andfartherdeclaringtheeffectofthelaketobebewitching。Iwasobliged，forpoliteness'sake，toacquiesce，andleavetheminthesuppositionthatIhadneverseenalargerlakenorafinerprospect。
Wenowmadeahalt，andthewholepartyencampedinthemeadow。
Whilethepreparationsforasocialmealweregoingon，Iproceededtosatisfymycuriosity。
Thepeasant'shousefirstattractedmyattention。Ifoundittoconsistofonelargechamber，andtwoofsmallersize，besidesastoreroomandextensivestables，fromwhichIjudgedthattheproprietorwasrichincattle。Iafterwardslearntthatheownedfiftysheep，eightcows，andfivehorses，andwaslookeduponasoneoftherichestfarmersintheneighbourhood。Thekitchenwassituatedattheextremeendofthebuilding，andwasfurnishedwithachimneythatseemedintendedonlyasaprotectionagainstrainandsnow，forthesmokedisperseditselfthroughoutthewholekitchen，dryingthefishwhichhungfromtheceiling，andslowlymakingitsexitthroughanair-hole。
Thelargeapartmentboastedawoodenbookshelf，containingaboutfortyvolumes。SomeoftheseIturnedover，andinspiteofmylimitedknowledgeoftheDanishlanguage，couldmakeoutenoughtodiscoverthattheywerechieflyonreligioussubjects。Butthefarmerseemedalsotolovepoetry；amongtheworksofthisclassinhislibrary，InoticedKleist，Muller，andevenHomer'sOdyssey。I
couldmakenothingoftheIcelandicbooks；butoninquiringtheircontents，Iwastoldthattheyalltreatedofreligiousmatters。
Afterinspectingthese，Iwalkedoutintothemeadowtosearchforflowersandherbs。FlowersIfoundbutfew，asitwasnottherighttimeoftheyearforthem；mysearchforherbswasmoresuccessful，andIevenfoundsomewildclover。Isawneitherbeetlesnorbutterflies；but，tomynosmallsurprise，heardthehummingoftwowildbees，oneofwhichIwasfortunateenoughtocatch，andtookhometopreserveinspiritsofwine。
Onrejoiningmyparty，Ifoundthemencampedinthemeadowaroundatable，whichhadinthemeantimebeenspreadwithbutter，cheese，bread，cake，roastlamb，raisinsandalmonds，afeworanges，andwine。Neitherchairsnorbenchesweretobehad，forevenwealthypeasantsonlypossessplanksnailedtothewallsoftheirrooms；soweallsatdownuponthegrass，anddidamplejusticetothecapitalcoffeewhichmadethecommencementofthemeal。Laughterandjokespredominatedtosuchanextent，thatIcouldhavefanciedmyselfamongimpulsiveItaliansinsteadofcoldNorthmen。
Therewasnolackofwit；butto-dayIwasunfortunatelyitsbutt。
Andwhatwasmyfault?——onlymystupidmodesty。TheconversationwascarriedonintheDanishlanguage；somemembersofourpartyspokeFrenchandothersGerman，butIpurposelyabstainedfromavailingmyselfoftheiracquirements，inordernottodisturbthehilarityoftheconversation。Isatsilentlyamongthem，andwasperfectlycontentedinlisteningtotheirmerriment。Butmybehaviourwassetdownasproceedingfromstupidity，andIsoongatheredfromtheirdiscoursethattheywerecomparingmetothe"stoneguest"inMozart'sDonGiovanni。Ifthesekindpeoplehadonlysurmisedthetruereasonofmykeepingsilence，theywouldperhapshavethankedmefordoingso。
Aswesatatourmeal，IheardavoiceinthefarmhousesinginganIcelandicsong。Atadistanceitresembledthehummingofbees；onanearerapproachitsoundedmonotonous，drawling，andmelancholy。
Whilewewerepreparingforourdeparture，thefarmer，hiswife，andtheservantsapproached，andshookeachofusbythehand。ThisistheusualmodeofsalutingsuchHIGHpeopleaswenumberedamongourparty。Thetruenationalsalutationisaheartykiss。
Onmyarrivalathometheeffectofthestrongcoffeesoonbegantomanifestitself。Icouldnotsleepatall，andhadthusampleleisuretomakeaccurateobservationsastothelengthofthedayandofthetwilight。Untileleveno'clockatnightIcouldreadordinaryprintinmyroom。Fromeleventilloneo'clockitwasdusk，butneversodarkastopreventmyreadingintheopenair。
Inmyroom，too，Icoulddistinguishthesmallestobjects，andeventellthetimebymywatch。Atoneo'clockIcouldagainreadinmyroom。
EXCURSIONTOVIDOE。
ThelittleislandofVidoe，fourmilesdistantfromReikjavik，isdescribedbymosttravellersasthechiefresortoftheeider-duck。
Ivisitedtheislandonthe8thofJune，butwasdisappointedinmyexpectations。Icertainlysawmanyofthesebirdsonthedeclivitiesandinthechasmsoftherocks，sittingquietlyontheirnests，butnothingapproachingthethousandsIhadbeenledtoexpect。Onthewhole，Imayperhapshaveseenfromonehundredtoahundredandfiftynests。
Themostremarkablecircumstanceconnectedwiththeeider-ducksistheirtamenessduringtheperiodofincubation。Ihadalwaysregardedasmythsthestoriestoldabouttheminthisrespect，andshoulddosostillhadInotconvincedmyselfofthetruthoftheseassertionsbylayinghandsupontheducksmyself。Icouldgoquiteuptothemandcaressthem，andeventhentheywouldnotoftenleavetheirnests。Somefewbirds，indeed，didsowhenIwishedtotouchthem；buttheydidnotflyup，butcontentedthemselveswithcoollywalkingafewpacesawayfromthenest，andtheresittingquietlydownuntilIhaddeparted。Butthosewhichalreadyhadliveyoung，beatoutboldlywiththeirwingswhenIapproached，struckatmewiththeirbills，andallowedthemselvestobetakenupbodilyratherthanleavethenest。Theyareaboutthesizeofourducks；
theireggsareofagreenishgrey，ratherlargerthanhen'seggs，andtasteverywell。Altogethertheylayabouteleveneggs。Thefinestdownisthatwithwhichtheylinetheirnestsatfirst；itisofadarkgreycolour。TheIcelanderstakeawaythisdown，andthefirstnestofeggs。Thepoorbirdnowrobsherselfoncemoreofaquantityofdownwhichis，however，notofsofineaqualityasthefirst，andagainlayseggs。Forthesecondtimeeverythingistakenfromher；andnotuntilshehasathirdtimelinedthenestwithherdownistheeider-duckleftinpeace。Thedownofthesecond，andthatofthethirdqualityespecially，aremuchlighterthanthatofthefirst。Ialsowassufficientlycrueltotakeafeweggsandsomedownoutofseveralofthenests。{34}
Ididnotwitnessthedangerousoperationofcollectingthisdownfrombetweenthecleftsofrocksandfromunapproachableprecipices，wherepeopleareletdown，ortowhichtheyaredrawnup，byropes，atperiloftheirlives。Thereare，however，noneofthesebreak-
neckplacesintheneighbourhoodofReikjavik。
SALMONFISHERY。
ImadeanotherexcursiontoaveryshortdistancetwomilesfromReikjavik，inthecompanyofHerrBernhoftandhisdaughter，totheLaxselvsalmonrivertowitnessthesalmon-fishing，whichtakesplaceeveryweekfromthemiddleofJunetothemiddleofAugust。
Itisconductedinaverysimplemanner。Thefishcomeuptheriverinthespawningseason；thestreamisthendammedupwithseveralwallsofstonelooselypiledtotheheightofsomethreefeet；andtheretreatofthefishtotheseaisthuscutoff。Whenthedayarrivesonwhichthesalmonaretobecaught，anetisspreadbehindeachofthesewalls。Threeorfoursuchdamsareerectedatintervals，offromeightytoahundredpaces，sothatevenifthefishesescapeonebarrier，theyaregenerallycaughtatthenext。
Thewaterisnowmadetorunoffasmuchaspossible；thepoorsalmondarttoandfro，becomingeverymomentmoreandmoreawareofthesinkingofthewater，andcrowdtotheweirs，cuttingthemselvesbycontactwiththesharpstonesofwhichtheyarebuilt。Thisisthedeepestpartofthewater；anditissoonsothrongedwithfish，thatmen，stationedinreadiness，canseizethemintheirhandsandflingthemashore。
Thesalmonpossessremarkableswiftnessandstrength。Thefishermanisobligedtotakethemquicklybytheheadandtail，andtothrowthemashore，whentheyareimmediatelycaughtbyothermen，whoflingthemstillfartherfromthewater。Ifthisisnotdonewithgreatquicknessandcare，manyofthefishesescape。Itiswonderfulhowthesecreaturescanstrugglethemselvesfree，andleapintotheair。Thefishermenareobligedtowearwoollenmittens，ortheywouldbequiteunabletoholdthesmoothsalmon。Ateveryday'sfishing，fromfivehundredtoathousandfisharetaken，eachweighingfromfivetofifteenpounds。OnthedaywhenIwaspresenteighthundredwerekilled。Thissalmon-streamisfarmedbyamerchantofReikjavik。
Thefishermenreceiveveryliberalpay，——infact，one-halfofthefishtaken。Andyettheyaredissatisfied，andshowsolittlegratitude，asseldomtofinishtheirworkproperly。So，forinstance，theyonlybroughttheshareofthemerchanttotheharbourofReikjavik，andwerefartoolazytocarrythesalmonfromtheboattothewarehouse，adistancecertainlynotmorethansixtyorseventypacesfromtheshore。Theysentamessagetotheiremployer，biddinghim"sendsomefreshhands，fortheyweremuchtootired。"Ofcourse，inacaselikethis，allremonstranceisunavailing。
Asintherestoftheworld，soalsoinIceland，everyoccasionthatoffersisseizeduponforafeastoramerry-making。ThedayonwhichIwitnessedthesalmon-fishinghappenedtobeoneofthefewfinedaysthatoccurduringasummerinIceland。Itwasthereforeunanimouslyconcludedbyseveralmerchants，thatthedayandthesalmon-fishingshouldbecelebratedbyadejeuneralafourchette。
Everyonecontributedsomething，andaplentifulandelegantbreakfastwassoonarranged，whichquiteresembledanentertainmentofthekindinourcountry；thisonecircumstanceexcepted，thatwewereobligedtoseatourselvesontheground，byreasonofascarcityoftablesandbenches。SpanishandFrenchwines，aswellascoldpunch，werethereinplenty，andthegreatesthilarityprevailed。
Imadeafourthexcursion，buttoaveryinconsiderabledistance，——
infact，onlyamileandahalffromReikjavik。Itwastoseeahotandslightlysulphurousspring，whichfallsintoariverofcoldwater。Bythisluckymeetingofextremes，watercanbeobtainedatanytemperature，fromtheboilingalmosttothefreezingpoint。Thetownspeopletakeadvantageofthisgoodopportunityintwoways，forbathingandforwashingclothes。Thelatterisundoubtedlythemoreimportantpurposeofapplication，andahuthasbeenerected，inordertoshieldthepoorpeoplefromwindandrainwhiletheyareatwork。Formerlythishutwasfurnishedwithagooddoorandwithglazedwindows，andthekeywaskeptatanappointedplaceinthetown，whenceanyonemightfetchit。Buttheservantsandpeasantgirlsweresoontoolazytogoforthekey；theyburstopenthelock，andsmashedthewindows，sothatnowthehuthasaveryruinousappearance，andaffordsbutlittleprotectionagainsttheweather。Howmuchalikemankindareeverywhere，andhowseldomtheydoright，exceptwhenitgivesthemnotrouble，andthen，unfortunately，thereisnotmuchmerittobeascribedtothem，astheirdoingrightismerelytheresultofaluckychance!Manypeoplealsobringfishandpotatoes，whichtheyhaveonlytolayinthehotwater，andinashorttimebotharecompletelycooked。
Thisspringisbutlittleusedforthepurposeofbathing；atmostperhapsbyafewchildrenandpeasants。Itsmedicinalvirtues，ifitpossessesany，arecompletelyunknown。
THESULPHUR-SPRINGSANDSULPHUR-MOUNTAINSOFKRISUVIK。
The4thofJunewasfixedformydeparture。Ihadonlytopackupsomebreadandcheese，sugarandcoffee，thenthehorsesweresaddled，andatseveno'clockthejourneywashappilycommenced。I
wasalonewithmyguide，who，liketherestofhisclass，couldnotbeconsideredasaveryfavourablespecimenofhumanity。Hewasverylazy，exceedinglyself-interested，andsingularlyloathtodevoteanypartofhisattentioneithertomeortothehorses，preferringtoconcentrateituponbrandy，anarticlewhichcanunfortunatelybeprocuredthroughoutthewholecountry。
IhadalreadyseenthedistrictbetweenReikjavikandHavenfiordatmyfirstarrivalinIceland。Atthepresentadvancedseasonoftheyearitworealessgloomyaspect:strawberry-plantsandviolets，——
theformer，however，withoutblossoms，andthelatterinodorous，——
werespringingupbetweentheblocksoflava，togetherwithbeautifulfernseightortenincheshigh。Inspiteofthetriflingdistance，Inoticed，asarule，thatvegetationwasheremoreluxuriantthanatReikjavik；foratthelatterplaceIhadfoundnostrawberry-plants，andthevioletswerenotyetinblossom。Thisdifferenceinthevegetationis，Ithink，tobeascribedtothehighwallsoflavaexistingingreatabundanceroundHavenfiord；theyprotectthetenderplantsandfernsfromthepiercingwinds。I
noticedthatboththegrassandtheplantsbeforementionedthrovecapitallyinthelittlehollowsformedbymassesoflava。
AcoupleofmilesbeyondHavenfiordIsawthefirstbirch-trees，which，however，didnotexceedtwoorthreefeetinheight，alsosomebilberry-plants。Anumberoflittlebutterflies，allofonecolour，and，asitseemedtome，ofthesamespecies，flutteredamongtheshrubsandplants。
Themanifoldformsandvariedoutlineofthelava-fieldspresentaremarkableandreallyamarvellousappearance。Shortasthisjourneyis——fortenhoursareamplysufficientforthetriptoKrisuvik，——itpresentsinnumerablefeaturesforcontemplation。I
couldonlygazeandwonder。Iforgoteverythingaroundme，feltneithercoldnorstorm，andletmyhorsepickhiswayasslowlyashechose，sothatIhadoncealmostbecomeseparatedfrommyguide。
Oneofthemostconsiderableofthestreamsoflavalayinaspaciousbroadvalley。Thelava-streamitself，abouttwomileslong，andofaconsiderablebreadth，traversingthewholeoftheplain，seemedtohavebeencalledintoexistencebymagic，astherewasnomountaintobeseenintheneighbourhoodfromwhichitcouldhaveemerged。Itappearedtobethecoveringofanimmensecrater，formed，notofseparatestonesandblocks，butofasingleandslightlyporousmassofrocktenortwelvefeetthick，brokenhereandtherebycleftsaboutafootinbreadth。
Another，andastilllargervalley，manymilesincircumference，wasfilledwithmassesoflavashapedlikewaves，remindingthebeholderofapetrifiedsea。Fromthemidstroseahighblackmountain，contrastingbeautifullywiththesurroundingmassesoflight-greylava。AtfirstIsupposedthelavamusthavestreamedforthfromthismountain，butsoonfoundthatthelatterwasperfectlysmoothonallsides，andterminatedinasharppeak。Theremainingmountainswhichshutinthevalleywerealsoperfectlyclosed，andI
lookedinvainforanytraceofacrater。
Wenowreachedasmalllake，andsoonafterwardsarrivedatalargerone，calledKleinfarvatne。Bothwerehemmedinbymountains，whichfrequentlyroseabruptlyfromthewaters，leavingnoroomforthepassageofthehorses。Wewereobligedsometimestoclimbthemountainsbyfearfullydizzypaths；atotherstoscrambledownwards，almostclingingtothefaceoftherock。Atsomepointswewereevencompelledtodismountfromourhorses，andscrambleforwardonourhandsandknees。Inaword，thesedangerouspoints，whichextendedoveraspaceofaboutsevenmiles，werecertainlyquiteasbadasanyIhadencounteredinSyria；ifanything，theywereevenmoreformidable。
Iwas，however，assuredthatIshouldhavenomoresuchplacestoencounterduringallmyfurtherjourneysinIceland，andthisinformationquitereconciledmetotheroadsinthiscountry。Fortherest，thepathwasgenerallytolerablysafeevenduringthistour，whichcontinuallyledmeacrossfieldsoflava。
Ajourneyofsomeeight-and-twentymilesbroughtusatlengthintoafriendlyvalley；cloudsofsmoke，bothsmallandgreat，weresoondiscoveredrisingfromthesurroundingheights，andalsofromthevalleyitself；thesewerethesulphur-springsandsulphur-mountains。
IcouldhardlyrestrainmyimpatiencewhilewetraversedthecoupleofmileswhichseparatedusfromKrisuvik。Afewsmalllakeswerestilltobecrossed；andatlength，atsixo'clockintheevening，wereachedourdestination。
Withtheexceptionofamorselofbreadandcheese，Ihadeatennothingsincethemorning；stillIcouldnotsparetimetomakecoffee，butatoncedismounted，summonedmyguide，andcommencedmypilgrimagetothesmokingmountains。Attheoutsetourwaylayacrossswampyplacesandmeadowlands；butsoonwehadtoclimbthemountainsthemselves，ataskrenderedextremelydifficultbytheelastic，yieldingsoil，inwhicheveryfootstepimprinteditselfdeeply，suggestingtothetravellertheunpleasantpossibilityofhissinkingthrough，——acontingencyrenderedanythingbutagreeablebytheneighbourhoodoftheboilingsprings。AtlengthIgainedthesummit，andsawaroundmenumerousbasinsfilledwithboilingwater，whileonallsides，fromhillandvalley，columnsofvapourroseoutofnumberlesscleftsintherocks。Fromacleftinonerockinparticularamightycolumnofvapourwhirledintotheair。OnthewindwardsideIcouldapproachthisplaceveryclosely。Thegroundwasonlylukewarminsomeplaces，andIcouldholdmyhandforseveralmomentstothegapsfromwhichsteamissued。Notraceofacraterwastobeseen。Thebubblingandhissingofthesteam，addedtothenoiseofthewind，occasionedsuchadeafeningclamour，thatIwasverygladtofeelfirmergroundbeneathmyfeet，andtoleavetheplaceinhaste。Itreallyseemedasiftheinteriorofthemountainhadbeenaboilingcaldron。Theprospectfromthesemountainsisveryfine。Numerousvalleysandmountainsinnumerableofferedthemselvestomyview，andIcouldevendiscerntheisolatedblackrockpastwhichIhadriddenfiveorsixhourspreviously。
Inowcommencedmydescentintothevalley；atafewhundredpacesthebubblingandhissingwerealreadyinaudible。IsupposedthatI
hadseeneverythingworthyofnotice；butmuchthatwasremarkablestillremained。Iparticularlynoticedabasinsomefiveorsixfeetindiameter，filledwithboilingmud。Thismudhasquitetheappearanceoffineclaydissolvedinwater；itscolourwasalightgrey。
Fromanotherbasin，hardlytwofeetindiameter，amightycolumnofsteamshotcontinuallyintotheairwithsomuchforceandnoisethatIstartedbackhalfstunned，andcouldhavefanciedthevaultofheavenwouldburst。Thisbasinissituatedinacornerofthevalley，closelyshutinonthreesidesbyhills。Intheneighbourhoodmanyhotspringsgushedforth；butIsawnocolumnsofwater，andmyguideassuredmethatsuchaphenomenonwasneverwitnessedhere。
Thereismoredangerinpassingthesespotsthanevenintraversingthemountains。Inspiteofthegreatestprecautions，Ifrequentlysankinabovetheankles，andwouldthendrawbackwithastart，andfindmyfootcoveredwithhotmud。FromtheplacewhereIhadbrokenthrough，steamandhotmud，orboilingwater，roseintotheair。
Thoughmyguide，whowalkedbeforeme，carefullyprobedthegroundwithhisstick，heseveraltimessankthroughhalf-waytotheknee。
Thesemenare，however，somuchaccustomedtocontingenciesofthiskindthattheytakelittleaccountofthem。Myguidewouldquietlyrepairtothenextspringandcleansehisclothesfrommud。AsI
wascoveredwithittoabovetheankles，Ithoughtitbesttofollowhisexample。
Forexcursionsliketheseitisbesttocomeprovidedwithafewboards，fiveorsixfeetinlength，withwhichtocoverthemostdangerousplaces。
Atnineo'clockintheevening，butyetinthefullglareofthesun，wearrivedatKrisuvik。Inowtooktimetolookatthisplace，whichIfoundtoconsistofasmallchurchandafewmiserablehuts。
Icreptintooneofthesedens；itwassodarkthataconsiderabletimeelapsedbeforeIcoulddistinguishobjects，thelightwasonlyadmittedthroughaverysmallaperture。Ifoundinthishutafewpersonswhoweresufferingfromtheeruptioncalled"lepra，"adiseasebuttoocommonlymetwithinIceland。Theirhandsandfaceswerecompletelycoveredwiththiseruption；ifitspreadsoverthewholebodythepatientlanguishesslowlyaway，andislostwithoutremedy。
Churchesareinthiscountrynotonlyusedforpurposesofpublicworship，butalsoserveasmagazinesforprovisions，clothes，&c。，andasinnsfortravellers。Idonotsupposethataparallelinstanceofdesecrationcouldbemetwithevenamongthemostuncivilisednations。Iwasassured，indeed，thattheseabuseswereabouttoberemedied。Areformofthiskindoughttohavebeencarriedoutlongago；andevennowthematterseemstoremainanopenpoint；forwhereverIcamethechurchwasplacedatmydisposalforthenight，andeverywhereIfoundastoreoffish，tallow，andotherequallyodoriferoussubstances。