IdoubtnotbutwhentherewasacollegeatInchKenneth，therewasahermitageuponSandiland。
　　Havingwanderedoverthoseextensiveplains，wecommittedourselvesagaintothewindsandwaters；andafteravoyageofabouttenminutes，inwhichwemetwithnothingveryobservable，wereagainsafeupondryground。
　　WetoldSirAllanourdesireofvisitingIcolmkill，andentreatedhimtogiveushisprotection，andhiscompany。Hethoughtpropertohesitatealittle，buttheLadieshinted，thatastheyknewhewouldnotfinallyrefuse，hewoulddobetterifhepreservedthegraceofreadycompliance。Hetooktheiradvice，andpromisedtocarryusonthemorrowinhisboat。
　　Wepassedtheremainingpartofthedayinsuchamusementsaswereinourpower。SirAllanrelatedtheAmericancampaign，andateveningoneoftheLadiesplayedonherharpsichord，whileColandMr。BoswelldancedaScottishreelwiththeother。
　　WecouldhavebeeneasilypersuadedtoalongerstayuponInchKenneth，butlifewillnotbeallpassedindelight。ThesessionatEdinburghwasapproaching，fromwhichMr。Boswellcouldnotbeabsent。
　　Inthemorningourboatwasready:itwashighandstrong。SirAllanvictualleditfortheday，andprovidedablerowers。WenowpartedfromtheyoungLairdofCol，whohadtreateduswithsomuchkindness，andconcludedhisfavoursbyconsigningustoSirAllan。
　　Herewehadthelastembraceofthisamiableman，who，whilethesepageswerepreparingtoattesthisvirtues，perishedinthepassagebetweenUlvaandInchKenneth。
　　SirAllan，towhomthewholeregionwaswellknown，toldusofaveryremarkablecave，towhichhewouldshowustheway。Wehadbeendisappointedalreadybyonecave，andwerenotmuchelevatedbytheexpectationofanother。
　　Itwasyetbettertoseeit，andwestoppedatsomerocksonthecoastofMull。Themouthisfortifiedbyvastfragmentsofstone，overwhichwemadeourway，neitherverynimbly，norverysecurely。
　　Theplace，however，wellrepaidourtrouble。Thebottom，asfarasthefloodrushesin，wasencumberedwithlargepebbles，butasweadvancedwasspreadoverwithsmoothsand。Thebreadthisaboutforty-fivefeet:theroofrisesinanarch，almostregular，toaheightwhichwecouldnotmeasure；butIthinkitaboutthirtyfeet。
　　Thispartofourcuriositywasnearlyfrustrated；forthoughwewenttoseeacave，andknewthatcavesaredark，weforgottocarrytapers，anddidnotdiscoverouromissiontillwewerewakenedbyourwants。SirAllanthensentoneoftheboatmenintothecountry，whosoonreturnedwithonelittlecandle。Wewerethusenabledtogoforward，butcouldnotventurefar。Havingpassedinwardfromtheseatoagreatdepth，wefoundontherighthandanarrowpassage，perhapsnotmorethansixfeetwide，obstructedbygreatstones，overwhichweclimbedandcameintoasecondcave，inbreadthtwenty-fivefeet。Theairinthisapartmentwasverywarm，butnotoppressive，norloadedwithvapours。Ourlightshowednotokensofafeculentorcorruptedatmosphere。Herewasasquarestone，called，aswearetold，Fingal'sTable。
　　Ifwehadbeenprovidedwithtorches，weshouldhaveproceededinoursearch，thoughwehadalreadygoneasfarasanyformeradventurer，exceptsomewhoarereportednevertohavereturned；
　　and，measuringourwayback，wefounditmorethanahundredandsixtyyards，theeleventhpartofamile。
　　Ourmeasureswerenotcriticallyexact，havingbeenmadewithawalkingpole，suchasitisconvenienttocarryintheserockycountries，ofwhichIguessedthelengthbystandingagainstit。
　　Inthistherecouldbenogreaterrour，nordoImuchdoubtbuttheHighlander，whomweemployed，reportedthenumberright。Morenicetyhoweverisbetter，andnomanshouldtravelunprovidedwithinstrumentsfortakingheightsanddistances。
　　Thereisyetanothercauseoferrournotalwayseasilysurmounted，thoughmoredangeroustotheveracityofitinerarynarratives，thanimperfectmensuration。Anobserverdeeplyimpressedbyanyremarkablespectacle，doesnotsuppose，thatthetraceswillsoonvanishfromhismind，andhavingcommonlynogreatconvenienceforwriting，defersthedescriptiontoatimeofmoreleisure，andbetteraccommodation。
　　Hewhohasnotmadetheexperiment，orwhoisnotaccustomedtorequirerigorousaccuracyfromhimself，willscarcelybelievehowmuchafewhourstakefromcertaintyofknowledge，anddistinctnessofimagery；howthesuccessionofobjectswillbebroken，howseparatepartswillbeconfused，andhowmanyparticularfeaturesanddiscriminationswillbecompressedandconglobatedintoonegrossandgeneralidea。
　　Tothisdilatorynotationmustbeimputedthefalserelationsoftravellers，wherethereisnoimaginablemotivetodeceive。Theytrustedtomemory，whatcannotbetrustedsafelybuttotheeye，andtoldbyguesswhatafewhoursbeforetheyhadknownwithcertainty。ThusitwasthatWheelerandSpondescribedwithirreconcilablecontrarietythingswhichtheysurveyedtogether，andwhichbothundoubtedlydesignedtoshowastheysawthem。
　　Whenwehadsatisfiedourcuriosityinthecave，sofarasourpenuryoflightpermittedus，weclamberedagaintoourboat，andproceededalongthecoastofMulltoaheadland，calledAtun，remarkableforthecolumnarformoftherocks，whichriseinaseriesofpilasters，withadegreeofregularity，whichSirAllanthinksnotlessworthyofcuriositythantheshoreofStaffa。
　　Notlongafterwecametoanotherrangeofblackrocks，whichhadtheappearanceofbrokenpilasters，setonebehindanothertoagreatdepth。ThisplacewaschosenbySirAllanforourdinner。
　　Wewereeasilyaccommodatedwithseats，forthestoneswereofallheights，andrefreshedourselvesandourboatmen，whocouldhavenootherresttillwewereatIcolmkill。
　　Theeveningwasnowapproaching，andwewereyetataconsiderabledistancefromtheendofourexpedition。Wecouldthereforestopnomoretomakeremarksintheway，butsetforwardwithsomedegreeofeagerness。Thedaysoonfailedus，andthemoonpresentedaverysolemnandpleasingscene。Theskywasclear，sothattheeyecommandedawidecircle:theseawasneitherstillnorturbulent:thewindneithersilentnorloud。Wewereneverfarfromonecoastoranother，onwhich，iftheweatherhadbecomeviolent，wecouldhavefoundshelter，andthereforecontemplatedateasetheregionthroughwhichweglidedinthetranquillityofthenight，andsawnowarockandnowanislandgrowgraduallyconspicuousandgraduallyobscure。IcommittedthefaultwhichI
　　havejustbeencensuring，inneglecting，aswepassed，tonotetheseriesofthisplacidnavigation。
　　WewereverynearanIsland，calledNun'sIsland，perhapsfromanancientconvent。HereissaidtohavebeendugthestonethatwasusedinthebuildingsofIcolmkill。Whetheritisnowinhabitedwecouldnotstaytoinquire。
　　AtlastwecametoIcolmkill，butfoundnoconvenienceforlanding。
　　Ourboatcouldnotbeforcedverynearthedryground，andourHighlanderscarriedusoverthewater。
　　WewerenowtreadingthatillustriousIsland，whichwasoncetheluminaryoftheCaledonianregions，whencesavageclansandrovingbarbariansderivedthebenefitsofknowledge，andtheblessingsofreligion。Toabstractthemindfromalllocalemotionwouldbeimpossible，ifitwereendeavoured，andwouldbefoolish，ifitwerepossible。Whateverwithdrawsusfromthepowerofoursenses；
　　whatevermakesthepast，thedistant，orthefuturepredominateoverthepresent，advancesusinthedignityofthinkingbeings。
　　Farfrommeandfrommyfriends，besuchfrigidphilosophyasmayconductusindifferentandunmovedoveranygroundwhichhasbeendignifiedbywisdom，bravery，orvirtue。Thatmanislittletobeenvied，whosepatriotismwouldnotgainforceupontheplainofMarathon，orwhosepietywouldnotgrowwarmeramongtheruinsofIona!
　　Wecametoolatetovisitmonuments:somecarewasnecessaryforourselves。WhateverwasintheIsland，SirAllancouldcommand，fortheinhabitantswereMacleans；buthavinglittletheycouldnotgiveusmuch。HewenttotheheadmanoftheIsland，whomFame，butFamedelightsinamplifying，representsasworthnolessthanfiftypounds。Hewasperhapsproudenoughofhisguests，butillpreparedforourentertainment；however，hesoonproducedmoreprovisionthanmennotluxuriousrequire。Ourlodgingwasnexttobeprovided。Wefoundabarnwellstockedwithhay，andmadeourbedsassoftaswecould。
　　Inthemorningweroseandsurveyedtheplace。Thechurchesofthetwoconventsarebothstanding，thoughunroofed。Theywerebuiltofunhewnstone，butsolid，andnotinelegant。Ibroughtawayrudemeasuresofthebuildings，suchasIcannotmuchtrustmyself，inaccuratelytaken，andobscurelynoted。Mr。Pennant'sdelineations，whicharedoubtlessexact，havemademyunskilfuldescriptionlessnecessary。
　　Theepiscopalchurchconsistsoftwoparts，separatedbythebelfry，andbuiltatdifferenttimes。Theoriginalchurchhad，likeothers，thealtaratoneend，andtowerattheother:butasitgrewtoosmall，anotherbuildingofequaldimensionwasadded，andthetowerthenwasnecessarilyinthemiddle。
　　Thattheseedificesareofdifferentagesseemsevident。ThearchofthefirstchurchisRoman，beingpartofacircle；thatoftheadditionalbuildingispointed，andthereforeGothick，orSaracenical；thetowerisfirm，andwantsonlytobeflooredandcovered。
　　Ofthechambersorcellsbelongingtothemonks，therearesomewallsremaining，butnothingapproachingtoacompleteapartment。
　　Thebottomofthechurchissoincumberedwithmudandrubbish，thatwecouldmakenodiscoveriesofcuriousinscriptions，andwhattherearehavebeenalreadypublished。Theplaceissaidtobeknownwheretheblackstoneslieconcealed，onwhichtheoldHighlandChiefs，whentheymadecontractsandalliances，usedtotaketheoath，whichwasconsideredasmoresacredthananyotherobligation，andwhichcouldnotbeviolatedwithouttheblackestinfamy。Inthosedaysofviolenceandrapine，itwasofgreatimportancetoimpressuponsavagemindsthesanctityofanoath，bysomeparticularandextraordinarycircumstances。Theywouldnothaverecoursetotheblackstones，uponsmallorcommonoccasions，andwhentheyhadestablishedtheirfaithbythistremendoussanction，inconstancyandtreacherywerenolongerfeared。
　　Thechapelofthenunneryisnowusedbytheinhabitantsasakindofgeneralcow-house，andthebottomisconsequentlytoomiryforexamination。Someofthestoneswhichcoveredthelaterabbesseshaveinscriptions，whichmightyetberead，ifthechapelwerecleansed。Theroofofthis，asofalltheotherbuildings，istotallydestroyed，notonlybecausetimberquicklydecayswhenitisneglected，butbecauseinanislandutterlydestituteofwood，itwaswantedforuse，andwasconsequentlythefirstplunderofneedyrapacity。
　　Thechancelofthenuns'chapeliscoveredwithanarchofstone，towhichtimehasdonenoinjury；andasmallapartmentcommunicatingwiththechoir，onthenorthside，likethechapter-
　　houseincathedrals，roofedwithstoneinthesamemanner，islikewiseentire。
　　Inoneofthechurcheswasamarblealtar，whichthesuperstitionoftheinhabitantshasdestroyed。Theiropinionwas，thatafragmentofthisstonewasadefenceagainstshipwrecks，fire，andmiscarriages。Inonecornerofthechurchthebasonforholywaterisyetunbroken。
　　Thecemeteryofthenunnerywas，tillverylately，regardedwithsuchreverence，thatonlywomenwereburiedinit。Thesereliquesofvenerationalwaysproducesomemournfulpleasure。Icouldhaveforgivenagreatinjurymoreeasilythantheviolationofthisimaginarysanctity。
　　Southofthechapelstandthewallsofalargeroom，whichwasprobablythehall，orrefectoryofthenunnery。Thisapartmentiscapableofrepair。Oftherestoftheconventthereareonlyfragments。
　　Besidesthetwoprincipalchurches，thereare，Ithink，fivechapelsyetstanding，andthreemoreremembered。Therearealsocrosses，ofwhichtwobearthenamesofSt。JohnandSt。Matthew。
　　Alargespaceofgroundabouttheseconsecratededificesiscoveredwithgravestones，fewofwhichhaveanyinscription。Hethatsurveysit，attendedbyaninsularantiquary，maybetoldwheretheKingsofmanynationsareburied，andifhelovestosoothhisimaginationwiththethoughtsthatnaturallyriseinplaceswherethegreatandthepowerfulliemingledwiththedust，lethimlisteninsubmissivesilence；forifheasksanyquestions，hisdelightisatanend。
　　Ionahaslongenjoyed，withoutanyverycredibleattestation，thehonourofbeingreputedthecemeteryoftheScottishKings。Itisnotunlikely，that，whentheopinionoflocalsanctitywasprevalent，theChieftainsoftheIsles，andperhapssomeoftheNorwegianorIrishprinceswererepositedinthisvenerableenclosure。Butbywhomthesubterraneousvaultsarepeopledisnowutterlyunknown。Thegravesareverynumerous，andsomeofthemundoubtedlycontaintheremainsofmen，whodidnotexpecttobesosoonforgotten。
　　Notfarfromthisawfulground，maybetracedthegardenofthemonastery:thefishpondsareyetdiscernible，andtheaqueduct，whichsuppliedthem，isstillinuse。
　　Thereremainsabrokenbuilding，whichiscalledtheBishop'shouse，Iknownotbywhatauthority。Itwasoncetheresidenceofsomemanabovethecommonrank，forithastwostoriesandachimney。Wewereshewnachimneyattheotherend，whichwasonlyanich，withoutperforation，butsomuchdoesantiquariancredulity，orpatriotickvanityprevail，thatitwasnotmuchmoresafetotrusttheeyeofourinstructorthanthememory。
　　ThereisintheIslandonehousemore，andonlyone，thathasachimney:weenteredit，andfounditneitherwantingrepairnorinhabitants；buttothefarmers，whonowpossessit，thechimneyisofnogreatvalue；fortheirfirewasmadeonthefloor，inthemiddleoftheroom，andnotwithstandingthedignityoftheirmansion，theyrejoiced，liketheirneighbours，inthecomfortsofsmoke。
　　Itisobserved，thatecclesiasticalcollegesarealwaysinthemostpleasantandfruitfulplaces。Whiletheworldallowedthemonkstheirchoice，itissurelynodishonourthattheychosewell。ThisIslandisremarkablyfruitful。Thevillagenearthechurchesissaidtocontainseventyfamilies，which，atfiveinafamily，ismorethanahundredinhabitantstoamile。Thereareperhapsothervillages:yetbothcornandcattleareannuallyexported。
　　ButthefruitfulnessofIonaisnowitswholeprosperity。Theinhabitantsareremarkablygross，andremarkablyneglected:IknownotiftheyarevisitedbyanyMinister。TheIsland，whichwasoncethemetropolisoflearningandpiety，hasnownoschoolforeducation，nortempleforworship，onlytwoinhabitantsthatcanspeakEnglish，andnotonethatcanwriteorread。
　　ThepeopleareoftheclanofMaclean；andthoughSirAllanhadnotbeenintheplaceformanyyears，hewasreceivedwithallthereverenceduetotheirChieftain。Oneofthembeingsharplyreprehendedbyhim，fornotsendinghimsomerum，declaredafterhisdeparture，inMr。Boswell'spresence，thathehadnodesignofdisappointinghim，'for，'saidhe，'Iwouldcutmybonesforhim；
　　andifhehadsenthisdogforit，heshouldhavehadit。'
　　Whenweweretodepart，ourboatwasleftbytheebbatagreatdistancefromthewater，butnosoonerdidwewishitafloat，thantheislandersgatheredroundit，and，bytheunionofmanyhands，pusheditdownthebeach；everymanwhocouldcontributehishelpseemedtothinkhimselfhappyintheopportunityofbeing，foramoment，usefultohisChief。
　　Wenowleftthoseillustriousruins，bywhichMr。Boswellwasmuchaffected，norwouldIwillinglybethoughttohavelookeduponthemwithoutsomeemotion。Perhaps，intherevolutionsoftheworld，IonamaybesometimeagaintheinstructressoftheWesternRegions。
　　ItwasnolongvoyagetoMull，where，underSirAllan'sprotection，welandedintheevening，andwereentertainedforthenightbyMr。
　　Maclean，aMinisterthatlivesuponthecoast，whoseeleganceofconversation，andstrengthofjudgment，wouldmakehimconspicuousinplacesofgreatercelebrity。NextdaywedinedwithDr。
　　Maclean，anotherphysician，andthentravelledontothehouseofaverypowerfulLaird，MacleanofLochbuy；forinthiscountryeveryman'snameisMaclean。
　　Whereracesarethusnumerous，andthuscombined，nonebuttheChiefofaclanisaddressedbyhisname。TheLairdofDunveganiscalledMacleod，butothergentlemenofthesamefamilyaredenominatedbytheplaceswheretheyreside，asRaasa，orTalisker。
　　ThedistinctionofthemeanerpeopleismadebytheirChristiannames。Inconsequenceofthispractice，thelateLairdofMacfarlane，aneminentgenealogist，consideredhimselfasdisrespectfullytreated，ifthecommonadditionwasappliedtohim。
　　Mr。Macfarlane，saidhe，maywithequalproprietybesaidtomany；
　　butI，andIonly，amMacfarlane。
　　Ourafternoonjourneywasthroughacountryofsuchgloomydesolation，thatMr。BoswellthoughtnopartoftheHighlandsequallyterrifick，yetwecamewithoutanydifficulty，atevening，toLochbuy，wherewefoundatrueHighlandLaird，roughandhaughty，andtenaciousofhisdignity；who，hearingmyname，inquiredwhetherIwasoftheJohnstonsofGlencroe，orofArdnamurchan。
　　Lochbuyhas，liketheotherinsularChieftains，quittedthecastlethatshelteredhisancestors，andlivesnearit，inamansionnotveryspaciousorsplendid。IhaveseennohousesintheIslandsmuchtobeenviedforconvenienceormagnificence，yettheybaretestimonytotheprogressofartsandcivility，astheyshewthatrapineandsurprisearenolongerdreaded，andaremuchmorecommodiousthantheancientfortresses。
　　ThecastlesoftheHebrides，manyofwhicharestanding，andmanyruined，werealwaysbuiltuponpointsofland，onthemarginofthesea。Forthechoiceofthissituationtheremusthavebeensomegeneralreason，whichthechangeofmannershasleftinobscurity。
　　Theywereofnouseinthedaysofpiracy，asdefencesofthecoast；foritwasequallyaccessibleinotherplaces。Hadtheybeensea-marksorlight-houses，theywouldhavebeenofmoreusetotheinvaderthanthenatives，whocouldwantnosuchdirectionsoftheirownwaters:forawatch-tower，acottageonahillwouldhavebeenbetter，asitwouldhavecommandedawiderview。
　　Iftheybeconsideredmerelyasplacesofretreat，thesituationseemsnotwellchosen；fortheLairdofanIslandissafestfromforeignenemiesinthecenter；onthecoasthemightbemoresuddenlysurprisedthanintheinlandparts；andtheinvaders，iftheirenterprisemiscarried，mightmoreeasilyretreat。Someconvenience，however，whateveritwas，theirpositionontheshoreafforded；foruniformityofpracticeseldomcontinueslongwithoutgoodreason。
　　AcastleintheIslandsisonlyasingletowerofthreeorfourstories，ofwhichthewallsaresometimeseightorninefeetthick，withnarrowwindows，andclosewindingstairsofstone。Thetoprisesinacone，orpyramidofstone，encompassedbybattlements。
　　Theintermediatefloorsaresometimesframesoftimber，asincommonhouses，andsometimesarchesofstone，oralternatelystoneandtimber；sothattherewasverylittledangerfromfire。Inthecenterofeveryfloor，fromtoptobottom，isthechiefroom，ofnogreatextent，roundwhichtherearenarrowcavities，orrecesses，formedbysmallvacuities，orbyadoublewall。Iknownotwhethertherebeevermorethanonefire-place。Theyhadnotcapacitytocontainmanypeople，ormuchprovision；buttheirenemiescouldseldomstaytoblockadethem；foriftheyfailedinthefirstattack，theirnextcarewastoescape。
　　Thewallswerealwaystoostrongtobeshakenbysuchdesultoryhostilities；thewindowsweretoonarrowtobeentered，andthebattlementstoohightobescaled。Theonlydangerwasatthegates，overwhichthewallwasbuiltwithasquarecavity，notunlikeachimney，continuedtothetop。Throughthishollowthedefendantsletfallstonesuponthosewhoattemptedtobreakthegate，andpoureddownwater，perhapsscaldingwater，iftheattackwasmadewithfire。ThecastleofLochbuywassecuredbydoubledoors，ofwhichtheouterwasanirongrate。
　　Ineverycastleisawellandadungeon。Theuseofthewellisevident。Thedungeonisadeepsubterraneouscavity，walledonthesides，andarchedonthetop，intowhichthedescentisthroughanarrowdoor，byaladderorarope，sothatitseemsimpossibletoescape，whentheropeorladderisdrawnup。Thedungeonwas，I
　　suppose，inwar，aprisonforsuchcaptivesasweretreatedwithseverity，and，inpeace，forsuchdelinquentsashadcommittedcrimeswithintheLaird'sjurisdiction；forthemansionsofmanyLairdswere，tillthelateprivationoftheirprivileges，thehallsofjusticetotheirowntenants。
　　Asthesefortificationsweretheproductionsofmerenecessity，theyarebuiltonlyforsafety，withlittleregardtoconvenience，andwithnonetoeleganceorpleasure。ItwassufficientforaLairdoftheHebrides，ifhehadastronghouse，inwhichhecouldhidehiswifeandchildrenfromthenextclan。Thattheyarenotlargenorsplendidisnowonder。Itisnoteasytofindhowtheywereraised，suchastheyare，bymenwhohadnomoney，incountrieswherethelabourersandartificerscouldscarcelybefed。
　　ThebuildingsindifferentpartsoftheIslandshewtheirdegreesofwealthandpower。IbelievethatforallthecastleswhichI
　　haveseenbeyondtheTweed，theruinsyetremainingofsomeoneofthosewhichtheEnglishbuiltinWales，wouldsupplymaterials。
　　Thesecastlesaffordanotherevidencethatthefictionsofromantickchivalryhadfortheirbasistherealmannersofthefeudaltimes，wheneveryLordofaseignorylivedinhisholdlawlessandunaccountable，withallthelicentiousnessandinsolenceofuncontestedsuperiorityandunprincipledpower。Thetraveller，whoeverhemightbe，comingtothefortifiedhabitationofaChieftain，would，probably，havebeeninterrogatedfromthebattlements，admittedwithcautionatthegate，introducedtoapettyMonarch，fiercewithhabitualhostility，andvigilantwithignorantsuspicion；who，accordingtohisgeneraltemper，oraccidentalhumour，wouldhaveseatedastrangerashisguestatthetable，orasaspyconfinedhiminthedungeon。
　　LochbuymeanstheYellowLake，whichisthenamegiventoaninletofthesea，uponwhichthecastleofMr。Macleanstands。Thereasonoftheappellationwedidnotlearn。
　　WewerenowtoleavetheHebrides，wherewehadspentsomeweekswithsufficientamusement，andwherewehadamplifiedourthoughtswithnewscenesofnature，andnewmodesoflife。Moretimewouldhavegivenusamoredistinctview，butitwasnecessarythatMr。
　　Boswellshouldreturnbeforethecourtsofjusticewereopened；anditwasnotpropertolivetoolonguponhospitality，howeverliberallyimparted。
　　OftheseIslandsitmustbeconfessed，thattheyhavenotmanyallurements，buttothemereloverofnakednature。Theinhabitantsarethin，provisionsarescarce，anddesolationandpenurygivelittlepleasure。
　　Thepeoplecollectivelyconsideredarenotfew，thoughtheirnumbersaresmallinproportiontothespacewhichtheyoccupy。
　　Mullissaidtocontainsixthousand，andSkyfifteenthousand。OfthecomputationrespectingMull，Icangivenoaccount；butwhenI
　　doubtedthetruthofthenumbersattributedtoSky，oneoftheMinistersexhibitedsuchfactsasconqueredmyincredulity。
　　Oftheproportion，whichtheproductofanyregionbearstothepeople，anestimateiscommonlymadeaccordingtothepecuniarypriceofthenecessariesoflife；aprincipleofjudgmentwhichisnevercertain，becauseitsupposeswhatisfarfromtruth，thatthevalueofmoneyisalwaysthesame，andsomeasuresanunknownquantitybyanuncertainstandard。Itiscompetentenoughwhenthemarketsofthesamecountry，atdifferenttimes，andthosetimesnottoodistant，aretobecompared；butofverylittleuseforthepurposeofmakingonenationacquaintedwiththestateofanother。
　　Provisions，thoughplentiful，aresoldinplacesofgreatpecuniaryopulencefornominalprices，towhich，howeverscarce，wheregoldandsilverareyetscarcer，theycanneverberaised。
　　IntheWesternIslandsthereissolittleinternalcommerce，thathardlyanythinghasaknownorsettledrate。Thepriceofthingsbroughtin，orcarriedout，istobeconsideredasthatofaforeignmarket；andeventhisthereissomedifficultyindiscovering，becausetheirdenominationsofquantityaredifferentfromours；andwhenthereisignoranceonbothsides，noappealcanbemadetoacommonmeasure。
　　This，however，isnottheonlyimpediment。TheScots，withavigilanceofjealousywhichnevergoestosleep，alwayssuspectthatanEnglishmandespisesthemfortheirpoverty，andtoconvincehimthattheyarenotlessrichthantheirneighbours，aresuretotellhimapricehigherthanthetrue。WhenLesley，twohundredyearsago，relatedsopunctiliously，thatahundredheneggs，newlaid，weresoldintheIslandsforapeny，hesupposedthatnoinferencecouldpossiblyfollow，butthateggswereingreatabundance。Posterityhassincegrownwiser；andhavinglearned，thatnominalandrealvaluemaydiffer，theynowtellnosuchstories，lesttheforeignershouldhappentocollect，notthateggsaremany，butthatpencearefew。
　　Moneyandwealthhavebytheuseofcommerciallanguagebeensolongconfounded，thattheyarecommonlysupposedtobethesame；
　　andthisprejudicehasspreadsowidelyinScotland，thatIknownotwhetherIfoundmanorwoman，whomIinterrogatedconcerningpaymentsofmoney，thatcouldsurmounttheilliberaldesireofdeceivingme，byrepresentingeverythingasdearerthanitis。
　　FromLochbuywerodeaveryfewmilestothesideofMull，whichfacesScotland，where，havingtakenleaveofourkindprotector，SirAllan，weembarkedinaboat，inwhichtheseatprovidedforouraccommodationwasaheapofroughbrushwood；andonthetwenty-
　　secondofOctoberreposedatatolerableinnonthemainland。
　　Onthenextdaywebeganourjourneysouthwards。Theweatherwastempestuous。Forhalfthedaythegroundwasrough，andourhorseswerestillsmall。Hadtheyrequiredmuchrestraint，wemighthavebeenreducedtodifficulties；forIthinkwehadamongstusbutonebridle。Wefedthepooranimalsliberally，andtheyperformedtheirjourneywell。Inthelatterpartoftheday，wecametoafirmandsmoothroad，madebythesoldiers，onwhichwetravelledwithgreatsecurity，busiedwithcontemplatingthesceneaboutus。
　　Thenightcameonwhilewehadyetagreatpartofthewaytogo，thoughnotsodark，butthatwecoulddiscernthecataractswhichpoureddownthehills，ononeside，andfellintoonegeneralchannelthatranwithgreatviolenceontheother。Thewindwasloud，therainwasheavy，andthewhistlingoftheblast，thefalloftheshower，therushofthecataracts，andtheroarofthetorrent，madeanoblerchorusoftheroughmusickofnaturethanithadeverbeenmychancetohearbefore。Thestreams，whichrancrossthewayfromthehillstothemaincurrent，weresofrequent，thatafterawhileIbegantocountthem；and，intenmiles，reckonedfifty-five，probablymissingsome，andhavingletsomepassbeforetheyforcedthemselvesuponmynotice。AtlastwecametoInverary，wherewefoundaninn，notonlycommodious，butmagnificent。
　　Thedifficultiesofperegrinationwerenowatanend。Mr。BoswellhadthehonourofbeingknowntotheDukeofArgyle，bywhomwewereverykindlyentertainedathissplendidseat，andsuppliedwithconveniencesforsurveyinghisspaciousparkandrisingforests。
　　AftertwodaysstayatInveraryweproceededSouthwardoverGlencroe，ablackanddrearyregion，nowmadeeasilypassablebyamilitaryroad，whichrisesfromeitherendoftheglenbyanacclivitynotdangerouslysteep，butsufficientlylaborious。Inthemiddle，atthetopofthehill，isaseatwiththisinscription，'Rest，andbethankful。'Stoneswereplacedtomarkthedistances，whichtheinhabitantshavetakenaway，resolved，theysaid，'tohavenonewmiles。'
　　Inthisrainyseasonthehillsstreamedwithwaterfalls，which，crossingtheway，formedcurrentsontheotherside，thatranincontrarydirectionsastheyfelltothenorthorsouthofthesummit。Being，bythefavouroftheDuke，wellmounted，Iwentupanddownthehillwithgreatconvenience。
　　FromGlencroewepassedthroughapleasantcountrytothebanksofLochLomond，andwerereceivedatthehouseofSirJamesColquhoun，whoisownerofalmostallthethirtyislandsoftheLoch，whichwewentinaboatnextmorningtosurvey。Theheavinessoftherainshortenedourvoyage，butwelandedononeislandplantedwithyew，andstockedwithdeer，andonanothercontainingperhapsnotmorethanhalfanacre，remarkablefortheruinsofanoldcastle，onwhichtheospreybuildsherannualnest。HadLochLomondbeeninahappierclimate，itwouldhavebeentheboastofwealthandvanitytoownoneofthelittlespotswhichitincloses，andtohaveemployeduponitalltheartsofembellishment。Butasitis，theislets，whichcourtthegazeratadistance，disgusthimathisapproach，whenhefinds，insteadofsoftlawns；andshadythickets，nothingmorethanuncultivatedruggedness。
　　WheretheLochdischargesitselfintoariver，calledtheLeven，wepassedanightwithMr。Smollet，arelationofDoctorSmollet，towhosememoryhehasraisedanobeliskonthebanknearthehouseinwhichhewasborn。Thecivilityandrespectwhichwefoundateveryplace，itisungratefultoomit，andtedioustorepeat。Hereweweremetbyapost-chaise，thatconveyedustoGlasgow。
　　TodescribeacitysomuchfrequentedasGlasgow，isunnecessary。
　　Theprosperityofitscommerceappearsbythegreatnessofmanyprivatehouses，andageneralappearanceofwealth。ItistheonlyepiscopalcitywhosecathedralwasleftstandingintherageofReformation。Itisnowdividedintomanyseparateplacesofworship，which，takenalltogether，composeagreatpile，thathadbeensomecenturiesinbuilding，butwasneverfinished；forthechangeofreligionintercepteditsprogress，beforethecrossislewasadded，whichseemsessentialtoaGothickcathedral。
　　Thecollegehasnothadasufficientshareoftheincreasingmagnificenceoftheplace。Thesessionwasbegun；foritcommencesonthetenthofOctoberandcontinuestothetenthofJune，butthestudentsappearednotnumerous，being，Isuppose，notyetreturnedfromtheirseveralhomes。Thedivisionoftheacademicalyearintoonesession，andonerecess，seemstomebetteraccommodatedtothepresentstateoflife，thanthatvariegationoftimebytermsandvacationsderivedfromdistantcenturies，inwhichitwasprobablyconvenient，andstillcontinuedintheEnglishuniversities。SomanysolidmonthsastheScotchschemeofeducationjoinstogether，allowandencourageaplanforeachpartoftheyear；butwithus，hethathassettledhimselftostudyinthecollegeissoontemptedintothecountry，andhethathasadjustedhislifeinthecountry，issummonedbacktohiscollege。
　　YetwhenIhaveallowedtotheuniversitiesofScotlandamorerationaldistributionoftime，Ihavegiventhem，sofarasmyinquirieshaveinformedme，allthattheycanclaim。Thestudents，forthemostpart，gothitherboys，anddepartbeforetheyaremen；
　　theycarrywiththemlittlefundamentalknowledge，andthereforethesuperstructurecannotbelofty。Thegrammarschoolsarenotgenerallywellsupplied；forthecharacterofaschool-masterbeingtherelesshonourablethaninEngland，isseldomacceptedbymenwhoarecapabletoadornit，andwheretheschoolhasbeendeficient，thecollegecaneffectlittle。
　　MenbredintheuniversitiesofScotlandcannotbeexpectedtobeoftendecoratedwiththesplendoursofornamentalerudition，buttheyobtainamediocrityofknowledge，betweenlearningandignorance，notinadequatetothepurposesofcommonlife，whichis，Ibelieve，verywidelydiffusedamongthem，andwhichcountenancedingeneralbyanationalcombinationsoinvidious，thattheirfriendscannotdefendit，andactuatedinparticularsbyaspiritofenterprise，sovigorous，thattheirenemiesareconstrainedtopraiseit，enablesthemtofind，ortomaketheirwaytoemployment，riches，anddistinction。
　　FromGlasgowwedirectedourcoursetoAuchinleck，anestatedevolved，throughalongseriesofancestors，toMr。Boswell'sfather，thepresentpossessor。Inourwaywefoundseveralplacesremarkableenoughinthemselves，butalreadydescribedbythosewhoviewedthematmoreleisure，orwithmuchmoreskill；andstoppedtwodaysatMr。Campbell's，agentlemanmarriedtoMr。Boswell'ssister。
　　Auchinleck，whichsignifiesastonyfield，seemsnotnowtohaveanyparticularclaimtoitsdenomination。Itisadistrictgenerallylevel，andsufficientlyfertile，butlikealltheWesternsideofScotland，incommodedbyveryfrequentrain。Itwas，withtherestofthecountry，generallynaked，tillthepresentpossessorfinding，bythegrowthofsomestatelytreesnearhisoldcastle，thatthegroundwasfavourableenoughtotimber，adorneditverydiligentlywithannualplantations。
　　LordAuchinleck，whoisoneoftheJudgesofScotland，andthereforenotwhollyatleisurefordomestickbusinessorpleasure，hasyetfoundtimetomakeimprovementsinhispatrimony。Hehasbuiltahouseofhewnstone，verystately，anddurable，andhasadvancedthevalueofhislandswithgreattendernesstohistenants。
　　Iwas，however，lessdelightedwiththeeleganceofthemodernmansion，thanwiththesullendignityoftheoldcastle。I
　　clamberedwithMr。Boswellamongtheruins，whichaffordstrikingimagesofancientlife。Itis，likeothercastles，builtuponapointofrock，andwas，Ibelieve，ancientlysurroundedwithamoat。Thereisanotherrocknearit，towhichthedrawbridge，whenitwasletdown，issaidtohavereached。Here，intheagesoftumultandrapine，theLairdwassurprisedandkilledbytheneighbouringChief，whoperhapsmighthaveextinguishedthefamily，hadhenotinafewdaysbeenseizedandhanged，togetherwithhissons，byDouglas，whocamewithhisforcestothereliefofAuchinleck。
　　Atnogreatdistancefromthehouserunsapleasingbrook，byaredrock，outofwhichhasbeenhewnaveryagreeableandcommodioussummer-house，atlessexpence，asLordAuchinlecktoldme，thanwouldhavebeenrequiredtobuildaroomofthesamedimensions。
　　Therockseemstohavenomoredampnessthananyotherwall。Suchopportunitiesofvarietyitisjudiciousnottoneglect。
　　WenowreturnedtoEdinburgh，whereIpassedsomedayswithmenoflearning，whosenameswantnoadvancementfrommycommemoration，orwithwomenofelegance，whichperhapsdisclaimsapedant'spraise。
　　TheconversationoftheScotsgrowseverydaylessunpleasingtotheEnglish；theirpeculiaritieswearfastaway；theirdialectislikelytobecomeinhalfacenturyprovincialandrustick，eventothemselves。Thegreat，thelearned，theambitious，andthevain，allcultivatetheEnglishphrase，andtheEnglishpronunciation，andinsplendidcompaniesScotchisnotmuchheard，exceptnowandthenfromanoldLady。
　　ThereisonesubjectofphilosophicalcuriositytobefoundinEdinburgh，whichnoothercityhastoshew；acollegeofthedeafanddumb，whoaretaughttospeak，toread，towrite，andtopracticearithmetick，byagentleman，whosenameisBraidwood。Thenumberwhichattendshimis，Ithink，abouttwelve，whichhebringstogetherintoalittleschool，andinstructsaccordingtotheirseveraldegreesofproficiency。
　　Idonotmeantomentiontheinstructionofthedeafasnew。
　　HavingbeenfirstpractiseduponthesonofaconstableofSpain，itwasafterwardscultivatedwithmuchemulationinEngland，byWallisandHolder，andwaslatelyprofessedbyMr。Baker，whoonceflatteredmewithhopesofseeinghismethodpublished。Howfaranyformerteachershavesucceeded，itisnoteasytoknow；theimprovementofMr。Braidwood'spupilsiswonderful。Theynotonlyspeak，write，andunderstandwhatiswritten，butifhethatspeakslookstowardsthem，andmodifieshisorgansbydistinctandfullutterance，theyknowsowellwhatisspoken，thatitisanexpressionscarcelyfigurativetosay，theyhearwiththeeye。
　　ThatanyhaveattainedtothepowermentionedbyBurnet，offeelingsounds，bylayingahandonthespeaker'smouth，Iknownot；butI
　　haveseensomuch，thatIcanbelievemore；asingleword，orashortsentence，Ithink，maypossiblybesodistinguished。
　　Itwillreadilybesupposedbythosethatconsiderthissubject，thatMr。Braidwood'sscholarsspellaccurately。Orthographyisvitiatedamongsuchaslearnfirsttospeak，andthentowrite，byimperfectnotionsoftherelationbetweenlettersandvocalutterance；buttothosestudentseverycharacterisofequalimportance；forlettersaretothemnotsymbolsofnames，butofthings；whentheywritetheydonotrepresentasound，butdelineateaform。
　　ThisschoolIvisited，andfoundsomeofthescholarswaitingfortheirmaster，whomtheyaresaidtoreceiveathisentrancewithsmilingcountenancesandsparklingeyes，delightedwiththehopeofnewideas。OneoftheyoungLadieshadherslatebeforeher，onwhichIwroteaquestionconsistingofthreefigures，tobemultipliedbytwofigures。Shelookeduponit，andquiveringherfingersinamannerwhichIthoughtverypretty，butofwhichI
　　knownotwhetheritwasartorplay，multipliedthesumregularlyintwolines，observingthedecimalplace；butdidnotaddthetwolinestogether，probablydisdainingsoeasyanoperation。I
　　pointedattheplacewherethesumtotalshouldstand，andshenoteditwithsuchexpeditionasseemedtoshewthatshehaditonlytowrite。
　　Itwaspleasingtoseeoneofthemostdesperateofhumancalamitiescapableofsomuchhelp；whateverenlargeshope，willexaltcourage；afterhavingseenthedeaftaughtarithmetick，whowouldbeafraidtocultivatetheHebrides?
　　Sucharethethingswhichthisjourneyhasgivenmeanopportunityofseeing，andsucharethereflectionswhichthatsighthasraised。Havingpassedmytimealmostwhollyincities，Imayhavebeensurprisedbymodesoflifeandappearancesofnature，thatarefamiliartomenofwidersurveyandmorevariedconversation。
　　Noveltyandignorancemustalwaysbereciprocal，andIcannotbutbeconsciousthatmythoughtsonnationalmanners，arethethoughtsofonewhohasseenbutlittle。