IhaddesiredtovisittheHebrides，orWesternIslandsofScotland，solong，thatIscarcelyrememberhowthewishwasoriginallyexcited；andwasintheAutumnoftheyear1773inducedtoundertakethejourney，byfindinginMr。Boswellacompanion，whoseacutenesswouldhelpmyinquiry，andwhosegaietyofconversationandcivilityofmannersaresufficienttocounteracttheinconveniencesoftravel，incountrieslesshospitablethanwehavepassed。
OntheeighteenthofAugustweleftEdinburgh，acitytoowellknowntoadmitdescription，anddirectedourcoursenorthward，alongtheeasterncoastofScotland，accompaniedthefirstdaybyanothergentleman，whocouldstaywithusonlylongenoughtoshewushowmuchwelostatseparation。
AswecrossedtheFrithofForth，ourcuriositywasattractedbyInchKeith，asmallisland，whichneitherofmycompanionshadevervisited，though，lyingwithintheirview，ithadalltheirlivessolicitedtheirnotice。Here，byclimbingwithsomedifficultyovershatteredcrags，wemadethefirstexperimentofunfrequentedcoasts。InchKeithisnothingmorethanarockcoveredwithathinlayerofearth，notwhollybareofgrass，andveryfertileofthistles。Asmallherdofcowsgrazesannuallyuponitinthesummer。Itseemsnevertohaveaffordedtomanorbeastapermanenthabitation。
Wefoundonlytheruinsofasmallfort，notsoinjuredbytimebutthatitmightbeeasilyrestoredtoitsformerstate。Itseemsnevertohavebeenintendedasaplaceofstrength，norwasbuilttoendureasiege，butmerelytoaffordcovertoafewsoldiers，whoperhapshadthechargeofabattery，orwerestationedtogivesignalsofapproachingdanger。Thereisthereforenoprovisionofwaterwithinthewalls，thoughthespringissonear，thatitmighthavebeeneasilyenclosed。Oneofthestoneshadthisinscription:
'MariaReg。1564。'Ithasprobablybeenneglectedfromthetimethatthewholeislandhadthesameking。
Weleftthislittleislandwithourthoughtsemployedawhileonthedifferentappearancethatitwouldhavemade，ifithadbeenplacedatthesamedistancefromLondon，withthesamefacilityofapproach；withwhatemulationofpriceafewrockyacreswouldhavebeenpurchased，andwithwhatexpensiveindustrytheywouldhavebeencultivatedandadorned。
Whenwelanded，wefoundourchaiseready，andpassedthroughKinghorn，Kirkaldy，andCowpar，placesnotunlikethesmallorstragglingmarket-townsinthosepartsofEnglandwherecommerceandmanufactureshavenotyetproducedopulence。
ThoughwewereyetinthemostpopulouspartofScotland，andatsosmalladistancefromthecapital，wemetfewpassengers。
Theroadsareneitherroughnordirty；anditaffordsasouthernstrangeranewkindofpleasuretotravelsocommodiouslywithouttheinterruptionoftoll-gates。Wherethebottomisrocky，asitseemscommonlytobeinScotland，asmoothwayismadeindeedwithgreatlabour，butitneverwantsrepairs；andinthosepartswhereadventitiousmaterialsarenecessary，thegroundonceconsolidatedisrarelybroken；fortheinlandcommerceisnotgreat，norareheavycommoditiesoftentransportedotherwisethanbywater。Thecarriagesincommonusearesmallcarts，drawneachbyonelittlehorse；andamanseemstoderivesomedegreeofdignityandimportancefromthereputationofpossessingatwo-horsecart。
ST。ANDREWS
AtanhoursomewhatlatewecametoSt。Andrews，acityoncearchiepiscopal；wherethatuniversitystillsubsistsinwhichphilosophywasformerlytaughtbyBuchanan，whosenamehasasfairaclaimtoimmortalityascanbeconferredbymodernlatinity，andperhapsafairerthantheinstabilityofvernacularlanguagesadmits。
Wefound，thatbytheinterpositionofsomeinvisiblefriend，lodgingshadbeenprovidedforusatthehouseofoneoftheprofessors，whoseeasycivilityquicklymadeusforgetthatwewerestrangers；andinthewholetimeofourstayweweregratifiedbyeverymodeofkindness，andentertainedwithalltheeleganceofletteredhospitality。
Inthemorningwerosetoperambulateacity，whichonlyhistoryshewstohaveonceflourished，andsurveyedtheruinsofancientmagnificence，ofwhicheventheruinscannotlongbevisible，unlesssomecarebetakentopreservethem；andwhereisthepleasureofpreservingsuchmournfulmemorials?Theyhavebeentillverylatelysomuchneglected，thateverymancarriedawaythestoneswhofanciedthathewantedthem。
Thecathedral，ofwhichthefoundationsmaybestilltraced，andasmallpartofthewallisstanding，appearstohavebeenaspaciousandmajestickbuilding，notunsuitabletotheprimacyofthekingdom。Ofthearchitecture，thepoorremainscanhardlyexhibit，eventoanartist，asufficientspecimen。Itwasdemolished，asiswellknown，inthetumultandviolenceofKnox'sreformation。
Notfarfromthecathedral，onthemarginofthewater，standsafragmentofthecastle，inwhichthearchbishopancientlyresided。
Itwasneververylarge，andwasbuiltwithmoreattentiontosecuritythanpleasure。CardinalBeatounissaidtohavehadworkmenemployedinimprovingitsfortificationsatthetimewhenhewasmurderedbytheruffiansofreformation，inthemannerofwhichKnoxhasgivenwhathehimselfcallsamerrynarrative。
ThechangeofreligioninScotland，eagerandvehementasitwas，raisedanepidemicalenthusiasm，compoundedofsullenscrupulousnessandwarlikeferocity，which，inapeoplewhomidlenessresignedtotheirownthoughts，andwho，conversingonlywitheachother，sufferednodilutionoftheirzealfromthegradualinfluxofnewopinions，waslongtransmittedinitsfullstrengthfromtheoldtotheyoung，butbytradeandintercoursewithEngland，isnowvisiblyabating，andgivingwaytoofasttothatlaxityofpracticeandindifferenceofopinion，inwhichmen，notsufficientlyinstructedtofindthemiddlepoint，tooeasilyshelterthemselvesfromrigourandconstraint。
ThecityofSt。Andrews，whenithadlostitsarchiepiscopalpre-
eminence，graduallydecayed:Oneofitsstreetsisnowlost；andinthosethatremain，thereissilenceandsolitudeofinactiveindigenceandgloomydepopulation。
Theuniversity，withinafewyears，consistedofthreecolleges，butisnowreducedtotwo；thecollegeofSt。Leonardbeinglatelydissolvedbythesaleofitsbuildingsandtheappropriationofitsrevenuestotheprofessorsofthetwoothers。Thechapelofthealienatedcollegeisyetstanding，afabricknotinelegantofexternalstructure；butIwasalways，bysomecivilexcuse，hindredfromenteringit。Adecentattempt，asIwassincetold，hasbeenmadetoconvertitintoakindofgreen-house，byplantingitsareawithshrubs。Thisnewmethodofgardeningisunsuccessful；theplantsdonothithertoprosper。TowhatuseitwillnextbeputI
havenopleasureinconjecturing。Itissomethingthatitspresentstateisatleastnotostentatiouslydisplayed。Wherethereisyetshame，theremayintimebevirtue。
ThedissolutionofSt。Leonard'scollegewasdoubtlessnecessary；
butofthatnecessitythereisreasontocomplain。Itissurelynotwithoutjustreproach，thatanation，ofwhichthecommerceishourlyextending，andthewealthencreasing，deniesanyparticipationofitsprosperitytoitsliterarysocieties；andwhileitsmerchantsoritsnoblesareraisingpalaces，suffersitsuniversitiestomoulderintodust。
Ofthetwocollegesyetstanding，oneisbytheinstitutionofitsfounderappropriatedtoDivinity。Itissaidtobecapableofcontainingfiftystudents；butmorethanonemustoccupyachamber。
Thelibrary，whichisoflateerection，isnotveryspacious，butelegantandluminous。
Thedoctor，bywhomitwasshewn，hopedtoirritateorsubduemyEnglishvanitybytellingme，thatwehadnosuchrepositoryofbooksinEngland。
SaintAndrewsseemstobeaplaceeminentlyadaptedtostudyandeducation，beingsituatedinapopulous，yetacheapcountry，andexposingthemindsandmannersofyoungmenneithertothelevityanddissolutenessofacapitalcity，nortothegrossluxuryofatownofcommerce，placesnaturallyunpropitioustolearning；inonethedesireofknowledgeeasilygiveswaytotheloveofpleasure，andintheother，isindangerofyieldingtotheloveofmoney。
Thestudentshoweverarerepresentedasatthistimenotexceedingahundred。Perhapsitmaybesomeobstructiontotheirincreasethatthereisnoepiscopalchapelintheplace。Isawnoreasonforimputingtheirpaucitytothepresentprofessors；norcantheexpenceofanacademicaleducationbeveryreasonablyobjected。A
studentofthehighestclassmaykeephisannualsession，orastheEnglishcallit，histerm，whichlastssevenmonths，foraboutfifteenpounds，andoneoflowerrankforlessthanten；inwhichboard，lodging，andinstructionareallincluded。
Thechiefmagistrateresidentintheuniversity，answeringtoourvice-chancellor，andtotherectormagnificusonthecontinent，hadcommonlythetitleofLordRector；butbeingaddressedonlyasMr。
Rectorinaninauguratoryspeechbythepresentchancellor，hehasfallenfromhisformerdignityofstyle。Lordshipwasveryliberallyannexedbyourancestorstoanystationorcharacterofdignity:Theysaid，theLordGeneral，andLordAmbassador；sowestillsay，myLord，tothejudgeuponthecircuit，andyetretaininourLiturgytheLordsoftheCouncil。
Inwalkingamongtheruinsofreligiousbuildings，wecametotwovaultsoverwhichhadformerlystoodthehouseofthesub-prior。
Oneofthevaultswasinhabitedbyanoldwoman，whoclaimedtherightofabodethere，asthewidowofamanwhoseancestorshadpossessedthesamegloomymansionfornolessthanfourgenerations。Theright，howeveritbegan，wasconsideredasestablishedbylegalprescription，andtheoldwomanlivesundisturbed。Shethinkshoweverthatshehasaclaimtosomethingmorethansufferance；forasherhusband'snamewasBruce，sheisalliedtoroyalty，andtoldMr。Boswellthatwhentherewerepersonsofqualityintheplace，shewasdistinguishedbysomenotice；thatindeedsheisnowneglected，butshespinsathread，hasthecompanyofhercat，andistroublesometonobody。
Havingnowseenwhateverthisancientcityofferedtoourcuriosity，weleftitwithgoodwishes，havingreasontobehighlypleasedwiththeattentionthatwaspaidus。Butwhoeversurveystheworldmustseemanythingsthatgivehimpain。Thekindnessoftheprofessorsdidnotcontributetoabatetheuneasyremembranceofanuniversitydeclining，acollegealienated，andachurchprofanedandhasteningtotheground。
St。Andrewsindeedhasformerlysufferedmoreatrociousravagesandmoreextensivedestruction，butrecentevilsaffectwithgreaterforce。Wewerereconciledtothesightofarchiepiscopalruins。
Thedistanceofacalamityfromthepresenttimeseemstoprecludethemindfromcontactorsympathy。Eventslongpastarebarelyknown；theyarenotconsidered。WereadwithaslittleemotiontheviolenceofKnoxandhisfollowers，astheirruptionsofAlaricandtheGoths。Hadtheuniversitybeendestroyedtwocenturiesago，weshouldnothaveregrettedit；buttoseeitpiningindecayandstrugglingforlife，fillsthemindwithmournfulimagesandineffectualwishes。
ABERBROTHICK
Asweknewsorrowandwishestobevain，itwasnowourbusinesstomindourway。TheroadsofScotlandaffordlittlediversiontothetraveller，whoseldomseeshimselfeitherencounteredorovertaken，andwhohasnothingtocontemplatebutgroundsthathavenovisibleboundaries，orareseparatedbywallsofloosestone。FromthebankoftheTweedtoSt。AndrewsIhadneverseenasingletree，whichIdidnotbelievetohavegrownupfarwithinthepresentcentury。Nowandthenaboutagentleman'shousestandsasmallplantation，whichinScotchiscalledapolicy，butofthesetherearefew，andthosefewallveryyoung。Thevarietyofsunandshadeishereutterlyunknown。Thereisnotreeforeithershelterortimber。Theoakandthethornisequallyastranger，andthewholecountryisextendedinuniformnakedness，exceptthatintheroadbetweenKirkaldyandCowpar，Ipassedforafewyardsbetweentwohedges。AtreemightbeashowinScotlandasahorseinVenice。AtSt。AndrewsMr。Boswellfoundonlyone，andrecommendedittomynotice；Itoldhimthatitwasroughandlow，orlookedasifIthoughtso。This，saidhe，isnothingtoanotherafewmilesoff。Iwasstilllessdelightedtohearthatanothertreewasnottobeseennearer。Nay，saidagentlemanthatstoodby，Iknowbutofthisandthattreeinthecounty。
TheLowlandsofScotlandhadonceundoubtedlyanequalportionofwoodswithothercountries。Forestsareeverywheregraduallydiminished，asarchitectureandcultivationprevailbytheincreaseofpeopleandtheintroductionofarts。ButIbelievefewregionshavebeendenudedlikethis，wheremanycenturiesmusthavepassedinwastewithouttheleastthoughtoffuturesupply。DaviesobservesinhisaccountofIreland，thatnoIrishmanhadeverplantedanorchard。Forthatnegligencesomeexcusemightbedrawnfromanunsettledstateoflife，andtheinstabilityofproperty；
butinScotlandpossessionhaslongbeensecure，andinheritanceregular，yetitmaybedoubtedwhetherbeforetheUnionanymanbetweenEdinburghandEnglandhadeversetatree。
Ofthisimprovidencenootheraccountcanbegiventhanthatitprobablybeganintimesoftumult，andcontinuedbecauseithadbegun。Establishedcustomisnoteasilybroken，tillsomegreateventshakesthewholesystemofthings，andlifeseemstorecommenceuponnewprinciples。ThatbeforetheUniontheScotshadlittletradeandlittlemoney，isnovalidapology；forplantationistheleastexpensiveofallmethodsofimprovement。
Todropaseedintothegroundcancostnothing，andthetroubleisnotgreatofprotectingtheyoungplant，tillitisoutofdanger；
thoughitmustbeallowedtohavesomedifficultyinplaceslikethese，wheretheyhaveneitherwoodforpalisades，northornsforhedges。
OurwaywasovertheFirthofTay，where，thoughthewaterwasnotwide，wepaidfourshillingsforferryingthechaise。InScotlandthenecessariesoflifeareeasilyprocured，butsuperfluitiesandeleganciesareofthesamepriceatleastasinEngland，andthereforemaybeconsideredasmuchdearer。
WestoppedawhileatDundee，whereIremembernothingremarkable，andmountingourchaiseagain，cameaboutthecloseofthedaytoAberbrothick。
ThemonasteryofAberbrothickisofgreatrenowninthehistoryofScotland。Itsruinsaffordampletestimonyofitsancientmagnificence:Itsextentmight，Isuppose，easilybefoundbyfollowingthewallsamongthegrassandweeds，anditsheightisknownbysomepartsyetstanding。Thearchofoneofthegatesisentire，andofanotheronlysofardilapidatedastodiversifytheappearance。Asquareapartmentofgreatloftinessisyetstanding；
itsuseIcouldnotconjecture，asitselevationwasverydisproportionatetoitsarea。Twocornertowers，particularlyattractedourattention。Mr。Boswell，whoseinquisitivenessissecondedbygreatactivity，scrambledinatahighwindow，butfoundthestairswithinbroken，andcouldnotreachthetop。Oftheothertowerweweretoldthattheinhabitantssometimesclimbedit，butwedidnotimmediatelydiscerntheentrance，andasthenightwasgatheringuponus，thoughtpropertodesist。Menskilledinarchitecturemightdowhatwedidnotattempt:Theymightprobablyformanexactground-plotofthisvenerableedifice。Theymayfromsomepartsyetstandingconjectureitsgeneralform，andperhapsbycomparingitwithotherbuildingsofthesamekindandthesameage，attainanideaveryneartotruth。Ishouldscarcelyhaveregrettedmyjourney，haditaffordednothingmorethanthesightofAberbrothick。
MONTROSE
Leavingthesefragmentsofmagnificence，wetravelledontoMontrose，whichwesurveyedinthemorning，andfounditwellbuilt，airy，andclean。Thetownhouseisahandsomefabrickwithaportico。WethenwenttoviewtheEnglishchapel，andfoundasmallchurch，cleantoadegreeunknowninanyotherpartofScotland，withcommodiousgalleries，andwhatwasyetlessexpected，withanorgan。
Atourinnwedidnotfindareceptionsuchaswethoughtproportionatetothecommercialopulenceoftheplace；butMr。
BoswelldesiredmetoobservethattheinnkeeperwasanEnglishman，andIthendefendedhimaswellasIcould。
WhenIhadproceededthusfar，IhadopportunitiesofobservingwhatIhadneverheard，thattherearemanybeggarsinScotland。
InEdinburghtheproportionis，Ithink，notlessthaninLondon，andinthesmallerplacesitisfargreaterthaninEnglishtownsofthesameextent。Itmust，however，beallowedthattheyarenotimportunate，norclamorous。Theysolicitsilently，orverymodestly，andthereforethoughtheirbehaviourmaystrikewithmoreforcetheheartofastranger，theyarecertainlyindangerofmissingtheattentionoftheircountrymen。Noveltyhasalwayssomepower，anunaccustomedmodeofbeggingexcitesanunaccustomeddegreeofpity。Buttheforceofnoveltyisbyitsownnaturesoonatanend；theefficacyofoutcryandperseveranceispermanentandcertain。
TheroadfromMontroseexhibitedacontinuationofthesameappearances。Thecountryisstillnaked，thehedgesareofstone，andthefieldssogenerallyplowedthatitishardtoimaginewheregrassisfoundforthehorsesthattillthem。Theharvest，whichwasalmostripe，appearedveryplentiful。
EarlyintheafternoonMr。BoswellobservedthatwewereatnogreatdistancefromthehouseoflordMonboddo。Themagnetismofhisconversationeasilydrewusoutofourway，andtheentertainmentwhichwereceivedwouldhavebeenasufficientrecompenseforamuchgreaterdeviation。
TheroadsbeyondEdinburgh，astheyarelessfrequented，mustbeexpectedtogrowgraduallyrougher；buttheywerehithertobynomeansincommodious。WetravelledonwiththegentlepaceofaScotchdriver，whohavingnorivalsinexpedition，neithergiveshimselfnorhishorsesunnecessarytrouble。Wedidnotaffecttheimpatiencewedidnotfeel，butweresatisfiedwiththecompanyofeachotheraswellridinginthechaise，assittingataninn。Thenightandthedayareequallysolitaryandequallysafe；forwheretherearesofewtravellers，whyshouldthereberobbers。
ABERDEEN
WecamesomewhatlatetoAberdeen，andfoundtheinnsofull，thatwehadsomedifficultyinobtainingadmission，tillMr。Boswellmadehimselfknown:Hisnameoverpoweredallobjection，andwefoundaverygoodhouseandciviltreatment。
IreceivedthenextdayaverykindletterfromSirAlexanderGordon，whomIhadformerlyknowninLondon，andafteracessationofallintercourseforneartwentyyearsmethereprofessorofphysicintheKing'sCollege。Suchunexpectedrenewalsofacquaintancemaybenumberedamongthemostpleasingincidentsoflife。
Theknowledgeofoneprofessorsoonprocuredmethenoticeoftherest，andIdidnotwantanytokenofregard，beingconductedwherevertherewasanythingwhichIdesiredtosee，andentertainedatoncewiththenoveltyoftheplace，andthekindnessofcommunication。
Towriteofthecitiesofourownislandwiththesolemnityofgeographicaldescription，asifwehadbeencastuponanewlydiscoveredcoast，hastheappearanceofveryfrivolousostentation；
yetasScotlandislittleknowntothegreaterpartofthosewhomayreadtheseobservations，itisnotsuperfluoustorelate，thatunderthenameofAberdeenarecomprisedtwotownsstandingaboutamiledistantfromeachother，butgoverned，Ithink，bythesamemagistrates。
OldAberdeenistheancientepiscopalcity，inwhicharestilltobeseentheremainsofthecathedral。Ithastheappearanceofatownindecay，havingbeensituatedintimeswhencommercewasyetunstudied，withverylittleattentiontothecommoditiesoftheharbour。
NewAberdeenhasallthebustleofprosperoustrade，andalltheshewofincreasingopulence。Itisbuiltbythewater-side。Thehousesarelargeandlofty，andthestreetsspaciousandclean。
TheybuildalmostwhollywiththegraniteusedinthenewpavementofthestreetsofLondon，whichiswellknownnottowanthardness，yettheyshapeiteasily。Itisbeautifulandmustbeverylasting。
WhatparticularpartsofcommercearechieflyexercisedbythemerchantsofAberdeen，Ihavenotinquired。Themanufacturewhichforcesitselfuponastranger'seyeisthatofknit-stockings，onwhichthewomenofthelowerclassarevisiblyemployed。
Ineachofthesetownsthereisacollege，orinstricterlanguage，anuniversity；forinboththereareprofessorsofthesamepartsoflearning，andthecollegesholdtheirsessionsandconferdegreesseparately，withtotalindependenceofoneontheother。
InoldAberdeenstandstheKing'sCollege，ofwhichthefirstpresidentwasHectorBoece，orBoethius，whomaybejustlyreverencedasoneofthereviversofelegantlearning。WhenhestudiedatParis，hewasacquaintedwithErasmus，whoafterwardsgavehimapublictestimonyofhisesteem，byinscribingtohimacatalogueofhisworks。ThestileofBoethius，though，perhaps，notalwaysrigorouslypure，isformedwithgreatdiligenceuponancientmodels，andwhollyuninfectedwithmonasticbarbarity。Hishistoryiswrittenwitheleganceandvigour，buthisfabulousnessandcredulityarejustlyblamed。Hisfabulousness，ifhewastheauthorofthefictions，isafaultforwhichnoapologycanbemade；buthiscredulitymaybeexcusedinanage，whenallmenwerecredulous。Learningwasthenrisingontheworld；butagessolongaccustomedtodarkness，weretoomuchdazzledwithitslighttoseeanythingdistinctly。Thefirstraceofscholars，inthefifteenthcentury，andsometimeafter，were，forthemostpart，learningtospeak，ratherthantothink，andwerethereforemorestudiousofelegancethanoftruth。ThecontemporariesofBoethiusthoughtitsufficienttoknowwhattheancientshaddelivered。Theexaminationoftenetsandoffactswasreservedforanothergeneration。
Boethius，aspresidentoftheuniversity，enjoyedarevenueoffortyScottishmarks，abouttwopoundsfourshillingsandsixpenceofsterlingmoney。Inthepresentageoftradeandtaxes，itisdifficultevenfortheimaginationsotoraisethevalueofmoney，orsotodiminishthedemandsoflife，astosupposefourandfortyshillingsayear，anhonourablestipend；yetitwasprobablyequal，notonlytotheneeds，buttotherankofBoethius。ThewealthofEnglandwasundoubtedlytothatofScotlandmorethanfivetoone，anditisknownthatHenrytheeighth，amongwhosefaultsavaricewasneverreckoned，grantedtoRogerAscham，asarewardofhislearning，apensionoftenpoundsayear。
Theother，calledtheMarischalCollege，isinthenewtown。Thehallislargeandwelllighted。OneofitsornamentsisthepictureofArthurJohnston，whowasprincipalofthecollege，andwhoholdsamongtheLatinpoetsofScotlandthenextplacetotheelegantBuchanan。
InthelibraryIwasshewnsomecuriosities；aHebrewmanuscriptofexquisitepenmanship，andaLatintranslationofAristotle'sPoliticksbyLeonardusAretinus，writtenintheRomancharacterwithnicetyandbeauty，which，astheartofprintinghasmadethemnolongernecessary，arenotnowtobefound。Thiswasoneofthelatestperformancesofthetranscribers，forAretinusdiedbutabouttwentyyearsbeforetypographywasinvented。Thisversionhasbeenprinted，andmaybefoundinlibraries，butislittleread；forthesamebookshavebeensincetranslatedbothbyVictoriusandLambinus，wholivedinanagemorecultivated，butperhapsowedinparttoAretinusthattheywereabletoexcelhim。
Muchisduetothosewhofirstbrokethewaytoknowledge，andleftonlytotheirsuccessorsthetaskofsmoothingit。
Inboththesecollegesthemethodsofinstructionarenearlythesame；thelecturesdifferingonlybytheaccidentaldifferenceofdiligence，orabilityintheprofessors。Thestudentswearscarletgownsandtheprofessorsblack，whichis，Ibelieve，theacademicaldressinalltheScottishuniversities，exceptthatofEdinburgh，wherethescholarsarenotdistinguishedbyanyparticularhabit。
IntheKing'sCollegethereiskeptapublictable，butthescholarsoftheMarischalCollegeareboardedinthetown。Theexpenceoflivingishere，accordingtotheinformationthatI
couldobtain，somewhatmorethanatSt。Andrews。
Thecourseofeducationisextendedtofouryears，attheendofwhichthosewhotakeadegree，whoarenotmany，becomemastersofarts，andwhoeverisamastermay，ifhepleases，immediatelycommencedoctor。Thetitleofdoctor，however，wasforaconsiderabletimebestowedonlyonphysicians。Theadvocatesareexaminedandapprovedbytheirownbody；theministerswerenotambitiousoftitles，orwereafraidofbeingcensuredforambition；
andthedoctorateineveryfacultywascommonlygivenorsoldintoothercountries。Theministersarenowreconciledtodistinction，andasitmustalwayshappenthatsomewillexcelothers，havethoughtgraduationapropertestimonyofuncommonabilitiesoracquisitions。
Theindiscriminatecollationofdegreeshasjustlytakenawaythatrespectwhichtheyoriginallyclaimedasstamps，bywhichtheliteraryvalueofmensodistinguishedwasauthoritativelydenoted。
Thatacademicalhonours，oranyothersshouldbeconferredwithexactproportiontomerit，ismorethanhumanjudgmentorhumanintegrityhavegivenreasontoexpect。Perhapsdegreesinuniversitiescannotbebetteradjustedbyanygeneralrulethanbythelengthoftimepassedinthepublicprofessionoflearning。AnEnglishorIrishdoctoratecannotbeobtainedbyaveryyoungman，anditisreasonabletosuppose，whatislikewisebyexperiencecommonlyfoundtrue，thathewhoisbyagequalifiedtobeadoctor，hasinsomuchtimegainedlearningsufficientnottodisgracethetitle，orwitsufficientnottodesireit。
TheScotchuniversitiesholdbutonetermorsessionintheyear。
ThatofSt。Andrewscontinueseightmonths，thatofAberdeenonlyfive，fromthefirstofNovembertothefirstofApril。
InAberdeenthereisanEnglishChapel，inwhichthecongregationwasnumerousandsplendid。TheformofpublicworshipusedbythechurchofEnglandisinScotlandlegallypractisedinlicensedchapelsservedbyclergymenofEnglishorIrishordination，andbytacitconnivancequietlypermittedinseparatecongregationssuppliedwithministersbythesuccessorsofthebishopswhoweredeprivedattheRevolution。
WecametoAberdeenonSaturdayAugust21。OnMondaywewereinvitedintothetown-hall，whereIhadthefreedomofthecitygivenmebytheLordProvost。Thehonourconferredhadallthedecorationsthatpolitenesscouldadd，andwhatIamafraidI
shouldnothavehadtosayofanycitysouthoftheTweed，Ifoundnopettyofficerbowingforafee。
Theparchmentcontainingtherecordofadmissionis，withthesealappending，fastenedtoaribandandwornforonedaybythenewcitizeninhishat。
Byaladywhosawusatthechapel，theEarlofErrolwasinformedofourarrival，andwehadthehonourofaninvitationtohisseat，calledSlanesCastle，asIamtold，improperly，fromthecastleofthatname，whichoncestoodataplacenotfardistant。
TheroadbeyondAberdeengrewmorestony，andcontinuedequallynakedofallvegetabledecoration。Wetravelledoveratractofgroundnearthesea，which，notlongago，sufferedaveryuncommon，andunexpectedcalamity。Thesandoftheshorewasraisedbyatempestinsuchquantities，andcarriedtosuchadistance，thatanestatewasoverwhelmedandlost。Suchandsohopelesswasthebarrennesssuperinduced，thattheowner，whenhewasrequiredtopaytheusualtax，desiredrathertoresigntheground。
SLANESCASTLE，THEBULLEROFBUCHAN
WecameintheafternoontoSlanesCastle，builtuponthemarginofthesea，sothatthewallsofoneofthetowersseemonlyacontinuationofaperpendicularrock，thefootofwhichisbeatenbythewaves。Towalkroundthehouseseemedimpracticable。FromthewindowstheeyewandersovertheseathatseparatesScotlandfromNorway，andwhenthewindsbeatwithviolencemustenjoyalltheterrifickgrandeurofthetempestuousocean。Iwouldnotformyamusementwishforastorm；butasstorms，whetherwishedornot，willsometimeshappen，Imaysay，withoutviolationofhumanity，thatIshouldwillinglylookoutuponthemfromSlanesCastle。
Whenwewereabouttotakeourleave，ourdeparturewasprohibitedbythecountesstillweshouldhaveseentwoplacesuponthecoast，whichsherightlyconsideredasworthyofcuriosity，DunBuy，andtheBullerofBuchan，towhichMr。Boydverykindlyconductedus。
DunBuy，whichinErseissaidtosignifytheYellowRock，isadoubleprotuberanceofstone，opentothemainseaononeside，andpartedfromthelandbyaverynarrowchannelontheother。Ithasitsnameanditscolourfromthedungofinnumerablesea-fowls，whichintheSpringchusethisplaceasconvenientforincubation，andhavetheireggsandtheiryoungtakeningreatabundance。Oneofthebirdsthatfrequentthisrockhas，asweweretold，itsbodynotlargerthanaduck's，andyetlayseggsaslargeasthoseofagoose。ThisbirdisbytheinhabitantsnamedaCoot。ThatwhichiscalledCootinEngland，ishereaCooter。
Upontheserockstherewasnothingthatcouldlongdetainattention，andwesoonturnedoureyestotheBuller，orBouilloirofBuchan，whichnomancanseewithindifference，whohaseithersenseofdangerordelightinrarity。Itisarockperpendicularlytubulated，unitedononesidewithahighshore，andontheotherrisingsteeptoagreatheight，abovethemainsea。Thetopisopen，fromwhichmaybeseenadarkgulfofwaterwhichflowsintothecavity，throughabreachmadeinthelowerpartoftheinclosingrock。Ithastheappearanceofavastwellborderedwithawall。TheedgeoftheBullerisnotwide，andtothosethatwalkround，appearsverynarrow。Hethatventurestolookdownwardsees，thatifhisfootshouldslip，hemustfallfromhisdreadfulelevationuponstonesononeside，orintowaterontheother。Wehoweverwentround，andweregladwhenthecircuitwascompleted。
Whenwecamedowntothesea，wesawsomeboats，androwers，andresolvedtoexploretheBulleratthebottom。Weenteredthearch，whichthewaterhadmade，andfoundourselvesinaplace，which，thoughwecouldnotthinkourselvesindanger，wecouldscarcelysurveywithoutsomerecoilofthemind。Thebasoninwhichwefloatedwasnearlycircular，perhapsthirtyyardsindiameter。Wewereinclosedbyanaturalwall，risingsteeponeverysidetoaheightwhichproducedtheideaofinsurmountableconfinement。Theinterceptionofalllaterallightcausedadismalgloom。Rounduswasaperpendicularrock，aboveusthedistantsky，andbelowanunknownprofundityofwater。IfIhadanymaliceagainstawalkingspirit，insteadoflayinghimintheRed-sea，IwouldcondemnhimtoresideintheBullerofBuchan。
Butterrourwithoutdangerisonlyoneofthesportsoffancy，avoluntaryagitationofthemindthatispermittednolongerthanitpleases。Weweresoonatleisuretoexaminetheplacewithminuteinspection，andfoundmanycavitieswhich，asthewatermantoldus，wentbackwardtoadepthwhichtheyhadneverexplored。Theirextentwehadnottimetotry；theyaresaidtoservedifferentpurposes。Ladiescomehithersometimesinthesummerwithcollations，andsmugglersmakethemstorehousesforclandestinemerchandise。Itishardlytobedoubtedbutthepiratesofancienttimesoftenusedthemasmagazinesofarms，orrepositoriesofplunder。
Tothelittlevesselsusedbythenorthernrovers，theBullermayhaveservedasashelterfromstorms，andperhapsasaretreatfromenemies；theentrancemighthavebeenstopped，orguardedwithlittledifficulty，andthoughthevesselsthatwerestationedwithinwouldhavebeenbatteredwithstonesshoweredonthemfromabove，yetthecrewswouldhavelainsafeinthecaverns。
Nextmorningwecontinuedourjourney，pleasedwithourreceptionatSlanesCastle，ofwhichwehadnowleisuretorecountthegrandeurandtheelegance；forourwayaffordedusfewtopicsofconversation。Thegroundwasneitheruncultivatednorunfruitful；
butitwasstillallarable。Offlocksorherdstherewasnoappearance。IhadnowtravelledtwohundredmilesinScotland，andseenonlyonetreenotyoungerthanmyself。
BAMFF
WedinedthisdayatthehouseofMr。FrazerofStreichton，whoshewedusinhisgroundssomestonesyetstandingofadruidicalcircle，andwhatIbegantothinkmoreworthyofnotice，someforesttreesoffullgrowth。
AtnightwecametoBamff，whereIremembernothingthatparticularlyclaimedmyattention。TheancienttownsofScotlandhavegenerallyanappearanceunusualtoEnglishmen。Thehouses，whethergreatorsmall，areforthemostpartbuiltofstones。
Theirendsarenowandthennextthestreets，andtheentranceintothemisveryoftenbyaflightofsteps，whichreachesuptothesecondstory，thefloorwhichislevelwiththegroundbeingenteredonlybystairsdescendingwithinthehouse。
TheartofjoiningsquaresofglasswithleadislittleusedinScotland，andinsomeplacesistotallyforgotten。Theframesoftheirwindowsareallofwood。TheyaremorefrugaloftheirglassthantheEnglish，andwilloften，inhousesnototherwisemean，composeasquareoftwopieces，notjoininglikecrackedglass，butwithoneedgelaidperhapshalfaninchovertheother。Theirwindowsdonotmoveuponhinges，butarepushedupanddrawndowningrooves，yettheyareseldomaccommodatedwithweightsandpullies。Hethatwouldhavehiswindowopenmustholditwithhishand，unlesswhatmaybesometimesfoundamonggoodcontrivers，therebeanailwhichhemaystickintoahole，tokeepitfromfalling。
Whatcannotbedonewithoutsomeuncommontroubleorparticularexpedient，willnotoftenbedoneatall。TheincommodiousnessoftheScotchwindowskeepsthemverycloselyshut。Thenecessityofventilatinghumanhabitationshasnotyetbeenfoundbyournorthernneighbours；andeveninhouseswellbuiltandelegantlyfurnished，astrangermaybesometimesforgiven，ifheallowshimselftowishforfresherair。
Thesediminutiveobservationsseemtotakeawaysomethingfromthedignityofwriting，andthereforearenevercommunicatedbutwithhesitation，andalittlefearofabasementandcontempt。Butitmustberemembered，thatlifeconsistsnotofaseriesofillustriousactions，orelegantenjoyments；thegreaterpartofourtimepassesincompliancewithnecessities，intheperformanceofdailyduties，intheremovalofsmallinconveniences，intheprocurementofpettypleasures；andwearewellorillatease，asthemainstreamoflifeglidesonsmoothly，orisruffledbysmallobstaclesandfrequentinterruption。Thetruestateofeverynationisthestateofcommonlife。Themannersofapeoplearenottobefoundintheschoolsoflearning，orthepalacesofgreatness，wherethenationalcharacterisobscuredorobliteratedbytravelorinstruction，byphilosophyorvanity；norispublichappinesstobeestimatedbytheassembliesofthegay，orthebanquetsoftherich。Thegreatmassofnationsisneitherrichnorgay:theywhoseaggregateconstitutesthepeople，arefoundinthestreets，andthevillages，intheshopsandfarms；andfromthemcollectivelyconsidered，mustthemeasureofgeneralprosperitybetaken。Astheyapproachtodelicacyanationisrefined，astheirconveniencesaremultiplied，anation，atleastacommercialnation，mustbedenominatedwealthy。
ELGIN
FindingnothingtodetainusatBamff，wesetoutinthemorning，andhavingbreakfastedatCullen，aboutnooncametoElgin，whereintheinn，thatwesupposedthebest，adinnerwassetbeforeus，whichwecouldnoteat。Thiswasthefirsttime，andexceptone，thelast，thatIfoundanyreasontocomplainofaScotishtable；
andsuchdisappointments，Isuppose，mustbeexpectedineverycountry，wherethereisnogreatfrequencyoftravellers。
TheruinsofthecathedralofElginaffordedusanotherproofofthewasteofreformation。Thereisenoughyetremainingtoshew，thatitwasoncemagnificent。Itswholeplotiseasilytraced。Onthenorthsideofthechoir，thechapter-house，whichisroofedwithanarchofstone，remainsentire；andonthesouthside，anothermassofbuilding，whichwecouldnotenter，ispreservedbythecareofthefamilyofGordon；butthebodyofthechurchisamassoffragments。
Apaperwashereputintoourhands，whichdeducedfromsufficientauthoritiesthehistoryofthisvenerableruin。ThechurchofElginhad，intheintestinetumultsofthebarbarousages，beenlaidwastebytheirruptionofahighlandchief，whomthebishophadoffended；butitwasgraduallyrestoredtothestate，ofwhichthetracesmaybenowdiscerned，andwasatlastnotdestroyedbythetumultuousviolenceofKnox，butmoreshamefullysufferedtodilapidatebydeliberaterobberyandfrigidindifference。Thereisstillextant，inthebooksofthecouncil，anorder，ofwhichI
cannotrememberthedate，butwhichwasdoubtlessissuedaftertheReformation，directingthatthelead，whichcoversthetwocathedralsofElginandAberdeen，shallbetakenaway，andconvertedintomoneyforthesupportofthearmy。AScotcharmywasinthosetimesverycheaplykept；yettheleadoftwochurchesmusthavebornsosmallaproportiontoanymilitaryexpence，thatitishardnottobelievethereasonallegedtobemerelypopular，andthemoneyintendedforsomeprivatepurse。Theorderhoweverwasobeyed；thetwochurcheswerestripped，andtheleadwasshippedtobesoldinHolland。Ihopeeveryreaderwillrejoicethatthiscargoofsacrilegewaslostatsea。
Letusnothowevermaketoomuchhastetodespiseourneighbours。
Ourowncathedralsaremoulderingbyunregardeddilapidation。Itseemstobepartofthedespicablephilosophyofthetimetodespisemonumentsofsacredmagnificence，andweareindangerofdoingthatdeliberately，whichtheScotsdidnotdobutintheunsettledstateofanimperfectconstitution。
Thosewhohadonceuncoveredthecathedralsneverwishedtocoverthemagain；andbeingthusmadeuseless，theywere，firstneglected，andperhaps，asthestonewaswanted，afterwardsdemolished。
Elginseemsaplaceoflittletrade，andthinlyinhabited。TheepiscopalcitiesofScotland，Ibelieve，generallyfellwiththeirchurches，thoughsomeofthemhavesincerecoveredbyasituationconvenientforcommerce。ThusGlasgow，thoughithasnolongeranarchbishop，hasrisenbeyonditsoriginalstatebytheopulenceofitstraders；andAberdeen，thoughitsancientstockhaddecayed，flourishesbyanewshootinanotherplace。
InthechiefstreetofElgin，thehousesjutovertheloweststory，liketheoldbuildingsoftimberinLondon，butwithgreaterprominence；sothatthereissometimesawalkforaconsiderablelengthunderacloister，orportico，whichisnowindeedfrequentlybroken，becausethenewhouseshaveanotherform，butseemstohavebeenuniformlycontinuedintheoldcity。
FORES。CALDER。FORTGEORGE
WewentforwardsthesamedaytoFores，thetowntowhichMacbethwastravelling，whenhemettheweirdsistersinhisway。ThistoanEnglishmanisclassicground。Ourimaginationswereheated，andourthoughtsrecalledtotheiroldamusements。
WehadnowapreludetotheHighlands。Webegantoleavefertilityandculturebehindus，andsawforagreatlengthofroadnothingbutheath；yetatFochabars，aseatbelongingtothedukeofGordon，thereisanorchard，whichinScotlandIhadneverseenbefore，withsometimbertrees，andaplantationofoaks。
AtForeswefoundgoodaccommodation，butnothingworthyofparticularremark，andnextmorningenteredupontheroad，onwhichMacbethheardthefatalprediction；butwetravelledonnotinterruptedbypromisesofkingdoms，andcametoNairn，aroyalburgh，which，ifonceitflourished，isnowinastateofmiserabledecay；butIknownotwhetheritschiefannualmagistratehasnotstillthetitleofLordProvost。
AtNairnwemayfixthevergeoftheHighlands；forhereIfirstsawpeatfires，andfirstheardtheErselanguage。Wehadnomotivetostaylongerthantobreakfast，andwentforwardtothehouseofMr。Macaulay，theministerwhopublishedanaccountofSt。
Kilda，andbyhisdirectionvisitedCalderCastle，fromwhichMacbethdrewhissecondtitle。Ithasbeenformerlyaplaceofstrength。Thedraw-bridgeisstilltobeseen，butthemoatisnowdry。Thetowerisveryancient:Itswallsareofgreatthickness，archedonthetopwithstone，andsurroundedwithbattlements。Therestofthehouseislater，thoughfarfrommodern。
Wewerefavouredbyagentleman，wholivesinthecastle，withalettertooneoftheofficersatFortGeorge，whichbeingthemostregularfortificationintheisland，welldeservesthenoticeofatraveller，whohasnevertravelledbefore。Wewentthithernextday，foundaverykindreception，wereledroundtheworksbyagentleman，whoexplainedtheuseofeverypart，andentertainedbySirEyreCoote，thegovernour，withsucheleganceofconversationasleftusnoattentiontothedelicaciesofhistable。
OfFortGeorgeIshallnotattempttogiveanyaccount。Icannotdelineateitscientifically，andalooseandpopulardescriptionisofuseonlywhentheimaginationistobeamused。Therewaseverywhereanappearanceoftheutmostneatnessandregularity。Butmysuffrageisoflittlevalue，becausethisandFortAugustusaretheonlygarrisonsthatIeversaw。
Wedidnotregretthetimespentatthefort，thoughinconsequenceofourdelaywecamesomewhatlatetoInverness，thetownwhichmayproperlybecalledthecapitaloftheHighlands。Hithertheinhabitantsoftheinlandpartscometobesuppliedwithwhattheycannotmakeforthemselves:Hithertheyoungnymphsofthemountainsandvalleysaresentforeducation，andasfarasmyobservationhasreached，arenotsentinvain。
INVERNESS
Invernesswasthelastplacewhichhadaregularcommunicationbyhighroadswiththesoutherncounties。Allthewaysbeyondithave，Ibelieve，beenmadebythesoldiersinthiscentury。AtInvernessthereforeCromwell，whenhesubduedScotland，stationedagarrison，asattheboundaryoftheHighlands。Thesoldiersseemtohaveincorporatedafterwardswiththeinhabitants，andtohavepeopledtheplacewithanEnglishrace；forthelanguageofthistownhasbeenlongconsideredaspeculiarlyelegant。
Hereisacastle，calledthecastleofMacbeth，thewallsofwhichareyetstanding。Itwasnoverycapaciousedifice，butstandsuponarocksohighandsteep，thatIthinkitwasoncenotaccessible，butbythehelpofladders，orabridge。Overagainstit，onanotherhill，wasafortbuiltbyCromwell，nowtotallydemolished；fornofactionofScotlandlovedthenameofCromwell，orhadanydesiretocontinuehismemory。