NEVERpopulous,itwasyetbyachapterofaccidentsthatIfoundtheislandsodesertedthatnosoundofhumanlifediversifiedthehours;thatwewalkedinthattrimpublicgardenofatown,amongclosedhouses,withoutevenalodging-billinawindowtoprovesometenancyinthebackquarters;and,whenwevisitedtheGovernmentbungalow,thatMr。Donat,actingVice-Resident,greetedusalone,andentertaineduswithcocoa-nutpunchesintheSessionsHallandseatofjudgmentofthatwidespreadarchipelago,ourglassesstandingarrayedwithsummonsesandcensusreturns。TheunpopularityofalateVice-Residenthadbegunthemovementofexodus,hisnativeemployesresigningcourtappointmentsandretiringeachtohisowncoco-patchintheremoterdistrictsoftheisle。Uponthebackofthat,theGovernorinPapeeteissuedadecree:AlllandinthePaumotusmustbedefinedandregisteredbyacertaindate。Now,thefolkofthearchipelagoarehalfnomadic;
amancanscarcebesaidtobelongtoaparticularatoll;hebelongstoseveral,perhapsholdsastakeandcountscousinshipinhalfascore;andtheinhabitantsofRotoavainparticular,man,woman,andchild,andfromthegendarmetotheMormonprophetandtheschoolmaster,owned-Iwasgoingtosayland-ownedatleastcoralblocksandgrowingcoco-palmsinsomeadjacentisle。Thither-fromthegendarmetothebabeinarms,thepastorfollowedbyhisflock,theschoolmastercarryingalongwithhimhisscholars,andthescholarswiththeirbooksandslates-theyhadtakenshipsometwodaysprevioustoourarrival,andwereallnowengageddisputingboundaries。Fancyoverhearstheshrillnessoftheirdisputationminglewiththesurfandscattersea-fowl。Itwasadmirabletoobservethecompletenessoftheirflight,likethatofhibernatingbirds;nothingleftbutemptyhouses,likeoldneststobereoccupiedinspring;andeventheharmlessnecessarydominiebornewiththemintheirtransmigration。Fiftyoddsetout,andonlyseven,Iwasinformed,remained。ButwhenImadeafeastonboardtheCASCO,morethanseven,andnearerseventimesseven,appearedtobemyguests。Whencetheyappeared,howtheyweresummoned,whithertheyvanishedwhenthefeastwaseaten,Ihavenoguess。InviewofLowIslandtales,andthatawfulfrequentationwhichmakesmenavoidtheseawardbeachesofanatoll,sometwoscoreofthosethatatewithusmayhavereturned,fortheoccasion,fromthekingdomofthedead。
Itwasthissolitudethatputitinourmindstohireahouse,andbecome,forthetimebeing,indwellersoftheisle-apracticeI
haveeversince,whenitwaspossible,adheredto。Mr。Donatplacedus,withthatintent,undertheconvoyofoneTanieraMahinui,whocombinedtheincongruouscharactersofcatechistandconvict。Thereadermaysmile,butIaffirmhewaswellqualifiedforeitherpart。Forthatofconvict,firstofall,byagoodsubstantialfelony,suchasinalllandscaststheperpetratorinchainsanddungeons。Tanierawasamanofbirth-thechiefawhileago,ashelovedtotell,ofadistrictinAnaaof800souls。
InanevilhouritoccurredtotheauthoritiesinPapeetetochargethechiefswiththecollectionofthetaxes。Itisaquestionifmuchwerecollected;itiscertainthatnothingwashandedon;andTaniera,whohaddistinguishedhimselfbyavisittoPapeeteandsomehighlivinginrestaurants,waschosenforthescapegoat。ThereadermustunderstandthatnotTanierabuttheauthoritiesinPapeetewerefirstinfault。Thechargeimposedwasdisproportioned。IhavenotyetheardofanyPolynesiancapableofsuchaburden;honestanduprightHawaiians-oneinparticular,whowasadmiredevenbythewhitesasaninflexiblemagistrate-
havestumbledinthenarrowpathofthetrustee。AndTaniera,whenthepinchcame,scornedtodenounceaccomplices;othershadsharedthespoil,heborethepenaltyalone。Hewascondemnedinfiveyears。Theperiod,whenIhadthepleasureofhisfriendship,wasnotyetexpired;hestilldrewprisonrations,thesoleandnotunwelcomereminderofhischains,and,Ibelieve,lookedforwardtothedateofhisenfranchisementwithmerealarm。Forhehadnosenseofshameintheposition;complainedofnothingbutthedefectivetableofhisplaceofexile;regrettednothingbutthefowlsandeggsandfishofhisownmorefavouredisland。Andasforhisparishioners,theydidnotthinkonehairthelessofhim。
Aschoolboy,mulctedintenthousandlinesofGreekanddwellingsequesteredinthedormitories,enjoysunabatedconsiderationfromhisfellows。SowithTaniera:amarkedman,notadishonoured;
havingfallenunderthelashoftheunthinkablegods;aJob,perhaps,orsayaTanierainthedenoflions。SongsarelikelymadeandsungaboutthissaintlyRobinHood。Ontheotherhand,hewasevenhighlyqualifiedforhisofficeintheChurch;beingbynatureagrave,considerate,andkindlyman;hisfaceruggedandserious,hissmilebright;themasterofseveraltrades,abuilderbothofboatsandhouses;endowedwithafinepulpitvoice;endowedbesideswithsuchagiftofeloquencethatatthegraveofthelatechiefofFakaravahesetalltheassistantsweeping。Inevermetamanofamindmoreecclesiastical;helovedtodisputeandtoinformhimselfofdoctrineandthehistoryofsects;andwhenI
showedhimthecutsinavolumeofChambers’sENCYCLOPAEDIA-
exceptforoneofanape-reservedhiswholeenthusiasmforcardinals’hats,censers,candlesticks,andcathedrals。Methoughtwhenhelookeduponthecardinal’shatavoicesaidlowinhisear:
’Yourfootisontheladder。’
UndertheguidanceofTanieraweweresooninstalledinwhatI
believetohavebeenthebest-appointedprivatehouseinFakarava。
Itstoodjustbeyondthechurchinanoblongpatchofcultivation。
MorethanthreehundredsacksofsoilwereimportedfromTahitifortheResidencygarden;andthismustshortlyberenewed,fortheearthblowsaway,sinksincrevicesofthecoral,andissoughtforatlastinvain。Iknownothowmuchearthhadgonetothegardenofmyvilla;someatleast,foranalleyofprosperousbananasrantothegate,andovertherestoftheenclosure,whichwascoveredwiththeusualclinker-likefragmentsofsmashedcoral,notonlycoco-palmsandmikisbutalsofig-treesflourished,allofadeliciousgreenness。Ofcoursetherewasnobladeofgrass。Infrontapicketfencedividedusfromthewhiteroad,thepalm-
fringedmarginofthelagoon,andthelagoonitself,reflectingcloudsbydayandstarsbynight。Attheback,abulwarkofuncementedcoralenclosedusfromthenarrowbeltofbushandthenighoceanbeachwheretheseasthundered,theroarandwashofthemstillhumminginthechambersofthehouse。
Thisitselfwasofonestory,verandahedfrontandback。Itcontainedthreerooms,threesewing-machines,threesea-chests,chairs,tables,apairofbeds,acradle,adouble-barrelledgun,apairofenlargedcolouredphotographs,apairofcolouredprintsafterWilkieandMulready,andaFrenchlithographwiththelegend:
’LEBRIGADEDUGENERALLEPASSETBRULANTSONDRAPEAUDEVANTMETZ。’
Underthestiltsofthehouseastovewasrusting,tillwedrewitforthandputitincommission。Notfaroffwastheburrowinthecoralwhencewesuppliedourselveswithbrackishwater。Therewaslivestock,besides,ontheestate-cocksandhensandabraceofill-regulatedcats,whomTanieracameeverymorningwiththesuntofeedongratedcocoa-nut。Hisvoicewasourregularreveille,ringingpleasantlyaboutthegarden:’Pooty-pooty-poo-poo-
poo!’
Faraswewerefromthepublicoffices,thenearnessofthechapelmadeoursituationwhatiscalledeligibleinadvertisements,andgaveusasidelookonsomenativelife。Everymorning,assoonashehadfedthefowls,Tanierasetthebellagoinginthesmallbelfry;andthefaithful,whowerenotverynumerous,gatheredtoprayers。Iwasoncepresent:itwastheLord’sday,andsevenfemalesandeightmalescomposedthecongregation。Awomanplayedprecentor,startingwithalongishnote;thecatechistjoinedinuponthesecondbar;andthenthefaithfulinabody。Somehadprintedhymn-bookswhichtheyfollowed;someoftherestfilledupwith’eh-eh-eh,’thePaumotuantol-de-rol。Afterthehymn,wehadanantiphonalprayerortwo;andthenTanierarosefromthefrontbench,wherehehadbeensittinginhiscatechist’srobes,passedwithinthealtar-rails,openedhisTahitianBible,andbegantopreachfromnotes。Iunderstoodoneword-thenameofGod;butthepreachermanagedhisvoicewithtaste,usedrareandexpressivegestures,andmadeastrongimpressionofsincerity。Theplainservice,thevernacularBible,thehymn-tunesmostlyonanEnglishpattern-’GodsavetheQueen,’Iwasinformed,aspecialfavourite,-all,savesomepaperflowersuponthealtar,seemednotmerelybutausterelyProtestant。ItisthustheCatholicshavemettheirlowislandproselyteshalf-way。
Tanierahadthekeysofourhouse;itwaswithhimImademybargain,ifthatcouldbecalledabargaininwhichallwasremittedtomygenerosity;itwashewhofedthecatsandpoultry,hewhocametocallandpickamealwithuslikeanacknowledgedfriend;andwelongfondlysupposedhewasourlandlord。Thisbeliefwasnottobearthetestofexperience;and,asmychapterhastorelate,nocertaintysucceededit。
Wepassedsomedaysofairlessquietandgreatheat;shell-
gathererswerewarnedfromtheoceanbeach,wheresunstrokewaitedthemfromtentillfour;thehighestpalmhungmotionless,therewasnovoiceaudiblebutthatoftheseaonthefarside。Atlast,aboutfourofacertainafternoon,longcat’s-pawsflawedthefaceofthelagoon;andpresentlyinthetree-topsthereawokethegratefulbustleofthetrades,andallthehousesandalleysoftheislandwerefannedout。Tomorethanoneenchantedship,thathadlainlongbecalmedinviewofthegreenshore,thewindbroughtdeliverance;andbydaylightonthemorrowaschoonerandtwocutterslaymooredintheportofRotoava。Notonlyintheoutersea,butinthelagoonitself,acertaintrafficwokewiththerevivingbreeze;andamongtherestoneFrancois,ahalf-blood,setsailwiththefirstlightinhisownhalf-deckedcutter。Hehadheldbeforeacourtappointment;being,Ibelieve,theResidencysweeper-out。TroublearisingwiththeunpopularVice-Resident,hehadthrownhishonoursdown,andfledtothefarpartsoftheatolltoplantcabbages-oratleastcoco-palms。ThencehewasnowdrivenbysuchneedasevenaCincinnatusmustacknowledge,andfaredforthecapitalcity,theseatofhislatefunctions,toexchangehalfatonofcoprafornecessaryflour。Andhere,forawhile,thestoryleavestotellofhisvoyaging。
Itmusttell,instead,ofourhouse,where,towardsevenatnight,thecatechistcamesuddenlyinwithhispleasedairofbeingwelcome;armedbesideswithaconsiderablebunchofkeys。Theseheproceededtotryonthesea-chests,drawingeachinturnfromitsplaceagainstthewall。Headsofstrangersappearedinthedoorwayandvolunteeredsuggestions。Allinvain。Eithertheywerethewrongkeysorthewrongboxes,orthewrongmanwastryingthem。
ForalittleTanierafumedandfretted;thenhadrecoursetothemoresummarymethodofthehatchet;oneofthechestswasbrokenopen,andanarmfulofclothing,maleandfemale,baledoutandhandedtothestrangersontheverandah。
ThesewereFrancois,hiswife,andtheirchild。Abouteighta。m。,inthemidstofthelagoon,theircutterhadcapsizedinjibbing。
第23章