首页 >出版文学> In the South Seas>第3章
  ThesepointsofsimilaritybetweenaSouthSeapeopleandsomeofmyownfolkathomeranmuchinmyheadintheislands;andnotonlyinclinedmetoviewmyfreshacquaintanceswithfavour,butcontinuallymodifiedmyjudgment。ApoliteEnglishmancomesto-daytotheMarquesansandisamazedtofindthementattooed;politeItalianscamenotlongagotoEnglandandfoundourfathersstainedwithwoad;andwhenIpaidthereturnvisitasalittleboy,IwashighlydivertedwiththebackwardnessofItaly:soinsecure,somuchamatterofthedayandhour,isthepre-eminenceofrace。ItwassothatIhituponameansofcommunicationwhichIrecommendtotravellers。WhenIdesiredanydetailofsavagecustom,orofsuperstitiousbelief,Icastbackinthestoryofmyfathers,andfishedforwhatIwantedwithsometraitofequalbarbarism:
  MichaelScott,LordDerwentwater’shead,thesecond-sight,theWaterKelpie,-eachoftheseIhavefoundtobeakillingbait;
  theblackbull’sheadofStirlingprocuredmethelegendofRAHERO;
  andwhatIknewoftheClunyMacphersons,ortheAppinStewarts,enabledmetolearn,andhelpedmetounderstand,abouttheTEVAS
  ofTahiti。Thenativewasnolongerashamed,hissenseofkinshipgrewwarmer,andhislipswereopened。Itisthissenseofkinshipthatthetravellermustrouseandshare;orhehadbettercontenthimselfwithtravelsfromthebluebedtothebrown。AndthepresenceofoneCockneytittererwillcauseawholepartytowalkincloudsofdarkness。
  ThehamletofAnahostandsonamarginofflatlandbetweenthewestofthebeachandthespringoftheimpendingmountains。A
  groveofpalms,perpetuallyrufflingitsgreenfans,carpetsitasforatriumphwithfallenbranches,andshadesitlikeanarbour。
  Aroadrunsfromendtoendofthecovertamongbedsofflowers,themilliner’sshopofthecommunity;andhereandthere,inthegratefultwilight,inanairfilledwithadiversityofscents,andstillwithinhearingofthesurfuponthereef,thenativehousesstandinscatteredneighbourhood。Thesameword,aswehaveseen,representsinmanytonguesofPolynesia,withscarceashadeofdifference,theabodeofman。Butalthoughthewordbethesame,thestructureitselfcontinuallyvaries;andtheMarquesan,amongthemostbackwardandbarbarousofislanders,isyetthemostcommodiouslylodged。ThegrasshutsofHawaii,thebirdcagehousesofTahiti,ortheopenshed,withthecrazyVenetianblinds,ofthepoliteSamoan-noneofthesecanbecomparedwiththeMarquesanPAEPAE-HAE,ordwellingplatform。Thepaepaeisanoblongterracebuiltwithoutcementorblackvolcanicstone,fromtwentytofiftyfeetinlength,raisedfromfourtoeightfeetfromtheearth,andaccessiblebyabroadstair。Alongthebackofthis,andcomingtoabouthalfitswidth,runstheopenfrontofthehouse,likeacoveredgallery:theinteriorsometimesneatandalmostelegantinitsbareness,thesleepingspacedividedoffbyanendlongcoaming,somebrightraimentperhapshangingfromanail,andalampandoneofWhite’ssewing-machinestheonlymarksofcivilization。Ontheoutside,atoneendoftheterrace,burnsthecooking-fireunderashed;attheotherthereisperhapsapenforpigs;theremainderistheeveningloungeandALFRESCObanquet-halloftheinhabitants。Tosomehouseswaterisbroughtdownthemountainsinbamboopipes,perforatedforthesakeofsweetness。WiththeHighlandcomparisoninmymind,IwasstrucktorememberthesluttishmoundsofturfandstoneinwhichIhavesatandbeenentertainedintheHebridesandtheNorthIslands。Twothings,I
  suppose,explainthecontrast。InScotlandwoodisrare,andwithmaterialssorudeasturfandstonetheveryhopeofneatnessisexcluded。AndinScotlanditiscold。Shelterandahearthareneedssopressingthatamanlooksnotbeyond;heisoutalldayafterabarebellyful,andatnightwhenhesaith,’Aha,itiswarm!’hehasnotappetiteformore。Orifforsomethingelse,thensomethinghigher;afineschoolofpoetryandsongaroseintheseroughshelters,andanairlike’LOCHABERNOMORE’isanevidenceofrefinementmoreconvincing,aswellasmoreimperishable,thanapalace。
  Toonesuchdwellingplatformaconsiderabletroopofrelativesanddependantsresort。Inthehourofthedusk,whenthefireblazes,andthescentofthecookedbreadfruitfillstheair,andperhapsthelampglintsalreadybetweenthepillarsandthehouse,youshallbeholdthemsilentlyassembletothismeal,men,women,andchildren;andthedogsandpigsfrisktogetheruptheterracestairway,switchingrivaltails。Thestrangersfromtheshipweresoonequallywelcome:welcometodiptheirfingersinthewoodendish,todrinkcocoanuts,tosharethecirculatingpipe,andtohearandholdhighdebateaboutthemisdeedsoftheFrench,thePanamaCanal,orthegeographicalpositionofSanFranciscoandNewYo’ko。InaHighlandhamlet,quiteoutofreachofanytourist,I
  havemetthesameplainanddignifiedhospitality。