andtheconductor,afterreflection,decidedtoputthemdownatthepublicgarden,which,asoneofthenewestthingsinthecity,wouldmakethemostfavorableimpressionuponstrangers。Itwasinfactsolikeallothercitygardens,withthefoliageofitstrimlyplantedalleys,thatitshelteredthemeffectuallyfromthepicturesquenessofNuremberg,andtheyhadalong,peacefulhourononeofitsbenches,wheretheyrestedfromtheirjourney,andrepentedtheirhastyattempttoappropriatethecharmofthecity。
Thenextmorningitrained,accordingtoacustomwhichtheelevator-boyflownwiththeinsolentrecollectionofasunnysummerinMilansaidwasinvariableinNuremberg;butaftertheone-o’clocktabled’hotetheytookanobletwo-spannercarriage,anddroveallroundthecity。
Everywheretheancientmoat,thicklyturfedandplantedwithtreesandshrubs,stretchedagirdleofgardenbetweentheircourseandthewallbeautifullyold,withknotsofdeadivyclingingtoitscrevices,orbroadmeshesoftheshiningfoliagemantlingitsblackenedmasonry。A
tile-roofedopengalleryranalongthetop,wheresomanycenturiesofsentrieshadpaced,andarchedthemassivegateswithheavilymouldedpiers,wheresocountlesslythefierceburghertroopshadsalliedforthagainsttheirbesiegers,andsooftentheleaguerhostshaddashedthemselvesinassault。Thebloodshedinforgottenbattleswouldhavefloodedthemoatwherenowthegrassandflowersgrew,orhereandthereapeacefulstretchofwaterstagnated。
ThedriveendedinavisittotheoldBurg,wheretheHapsburgKaisersdweltwhentheyvisitedtheirfaithfulimperialcity。FromitsrampartstheincrediblepicturesquenessofNurembergbestshowsitself,andifonehasanyloveforthedistinctivequalityofTeutonicarchitectureitisherethatmorethananywhereelseonemayfeastit。Theprospectoftowerandspireandgableisofsuchamediaevalrichness,ofsuchanaboundingfulness,thatallincidentsarelostinit。Themultitudinousroofsofred-browntiles,blinkingbrowsilyfromtheirlowdormers,pressupononeanotherinendlesssuccession;theyclustertogetheronariseofgroundandsinkawaywherethestreetfalls,buttheynowheredisperseorscatter,andtheyendabruptlyattheotherrimofthecity,beyondwhichloomsthegreencountry,mergingintheremoterblueofmistyuplands。
Aprettyyounggirlwaitedatthedoorofthetowerforthevisitorstogatherinsufficientnumber,andthenledthemthroughtheterriblemuseum,discantinginthesamegayvoiceandwiththesamesmilingaironallthemurderousenginesandimplementsoftorture。FirstinGermanandtheninEnglishsheexplainedthefearfulusesoftheIronMaiden,shewinninglyillustratedtheactionoftheracksandwheelsonwhichmenhadbeenstretchedandbroken,andshesweetlyvauntedaswordwhichhadbeheadedeighthundredpersons。WhenshetooktheestablishedfeefromMarchshesuggested,withademureglance,“AndwhatmoreyoupleaseforsayingitinEnglish。”
“CanyousayitinRussian?”demandedayoungman,whoseeyeshehadseendwellingonherfromthebeginning。Shelaughedarchly,andrespondedwithsomeSlavicwords,andthendeliveredhertrainofsight-seersovertothecustodianwhowastoshowthemthroughthehallsandchambersoftheBurg。Thesewereundergoingtherepairswhichthemonumentsofthepastareperpetuallysufferinginthepresent,andtherewassomespecialpaintingandvarnishingforthereceptionoftheKaiser,whowascomingtoNurembergforthemilitarymanoeuvresthenathand。Butiftheyhadbeenintheunmolesteddiscomfortoftheirunlivablemagnificence,theirsplendorwassuchasmightwellreconcilethewitnesstothesuperiorcomfortofaprivatestationinoursnuggerday。TheMarchescameoutowningthattheyouthwhichmightoncehavefoundtheromanticgloriesoftheplaceenoughwasgonefromthem。ButsomuchofitwaslefttoherthatshewishedtomakehimstopandlookattheflirtationwhichhadblossomedoutbetweenthatprettyyounggirlandtheRussian,whomtheyhadscarcelymissedfromtheirpartyintheBurg。Hehadapparentlyneverpartedfromthegirl,andnowastheysattogetheronthethresholdofthegloomytower,hemosthavebeenteachinghermoreSlavicwords,fortheywerebothlaughingasiftheyunderstoodeachotherperfectly。
Inhissecurityfromhavingtheaffairinanywiseonhishands,Marchwouldhavewillinglylingered,toseehowhereducationgoton;butitbegantorain,Theraindidnotdisturbthelovers,butitobligedtheelderlyspectatorstotakerefugeintheircarriage;andtheydroveofftofindthefamousLittleGooseMan。ThisiswhateveryonedoesatNuremberg;itwouldbedifficulttosaywhy。WhentheyfoundtheLittleGooseMan,hewasonlyamediaevalfancyinbronze,whostoodonhispedestalinthemarket-placeandcontributedfromthebillofthegooseunderhisarmasmallstreamtotherainfalldrenchingthewetwaresofthewetmarket-womenroundthefountain,andsoakingtheircauliflowersandlettuce,theirgrapesandpears,theircarrotsandturnips,tothewateryflavorofallfruitsandvegetablesinGermany。
Theairwasveryrawandchill;butaftersupperthecloudsclearedaway,andapleasanteveningtemptedthetravellersout。Theportierdissembledanyslightwhichtheireagernessfortheonlyamusementhecouldthinkofinspired,anddirectedthemtoapopulartheatrewhichwasgivingasummerseasonatlowpricestothelowerclasses,andwhichtheysurprised,aftersome,search,tryingtohideitselfinasortofbacksquare。Theygotthebestplacesatapricewhichoughttohavebeenmortifyinglycheap,andfoundthemselves,withathousandotherharmlessbourgeoisfolk,inasortofspacious,agreeablebarn,ofadecorationbynomeansugly,andofacertainartlesscomfort。Eachseatfrontedashelfatthebackoftheseatbeforeit,wherethespectatorcouldputhishat;therewasasmallershelfforhissteinofthebeerpassedconstantlythroughouttheevening;andtherewasabuffetwherehecouldstayhimselfwithcoldhamandotherrobustGermanrefreshments。
Itwas“TheWeddingJourneytoNuremberg“uponwhichtheyhadoddlychanced,andtheyacceptedasanationaltributethecharacterofanAmericangirlinit。ShewasanAmericangirloftheadvancedpattern,andshecameandwentatapicniconthearmofaheadwaiter。SheseemedtohavenoofficeinthedramaexcepttoillustrateaGermanconceptionofAmericangirlhood,buteveninthissimplefunctionsheseemedrathertopuzzletheGermanaudience;perhapsbecauseoftheoccasionalEnglishwordswhichsheused。
Totheastonishmentofhercompatriots,whentheycameoutofthetheatreitwasnotraining;thenightwasasbrilliantlystarlitasanightcouldbeinGermany,andtheysaunteredhomerichlycontentthroughthenarrowstreetsandthroughthebeautifuloldDamenthor,beyondwhichtheirhotellay。Howpretty,theysaid,tocallthatcharmingporttheLadies’Gate!
Theypromisedeachothertofindoutwhy,andtheyneverdidso,butsatisfiedthemselvesbyassigningittotheexclusiveuseoftheslimmaidensandmassivematronsoftheoldNurembergpatriciate,whomtheyimaginedtrailingtheirsilkensplendorsunderitsarchinperpetualprocession。
ThelifeoftheNurembergpatriciate,nowextinctinthecontrolofthecitywhichitbuildedsostrenuouslyandmaintainedsoheroically,isstillinsistentinallitsart。Thisexpressestheirprideatonceandtheirsimplicitywithachildishliterality。AtitsbestitisneversogoodasthegoodItalianart,whoseinfluenceisalwayspresentinitsbest。ThecoloringofthegreatcanvasesisVenetian,butthereisnosuchdemocracyofgreatnessasinthepaintingatVenice;indecorationtheartofNurembergisatbestquaint,andattheworstpuerile。
WhereverithadobeyedanacademicintentionitseemedtoMarchpoorandcoarse,asinthebronzefountainbesidetheChurchofSt。Lawrence。Thewaterspinsfromthepoutedbreastsofthebeautifulfiguresinstreamsthatcrossandinterlaceafterafancytrivialandgross;butinthebaseofthechurchthereisatime-wornGethsemane,exquisitelyaffectinginitssimple-heartedtruth。Thelongageshavemadeitevenmoreaffectingthanthesculptorimaginedit;theyhaveblurredthefacesandfiguresinpassingtilltheirfeaturesarescarcelydistinguishable;andthesleepingapostlesseemtohavedreamedthemselvesbackintothemother-
marble。Itisofthesametraditionandimpulsewiththatsupremegloryofthenativesculpture,theineffabletabernacleofAdamKrafft,whichclimbsacolumnofthechurchwithin,amiracleofrichlycarvenstory;
andnodoubtiftherewereaNurembergsculptordoinggreatthingstoday,hisworkwouldbeofkindredinspiration。
Thedescendantsoftheoldpatricianwhoorderedthetabernacleatratherahardbargainfromtheartiststillworshiponthefloorbelow,andthedescendantsofhisneighborpatricianshavetheirseatsinthepewsabout,andtheirnamescutintheproprietaryplatesonthepew-tops。
ThevergeresswhoshowedtheMarchesthroughthechurchwasdevoutinthepraiseofthesearistocraticfellow-citizensofhers。“Sosimple,andyetsonoble!”shesaid。Shewasaveryromanticvergeress,andshetoldthematunsparinglengththelegendofthetabernacle,howtheartistfellasleepindespairofwinninghispatron’sdaughter,andsawinavisionthemaster-workwiththelily-likedroopattop,whichgainedhimherhand。TheydidnotrealizetilltoolatethatitwasalloutofanovelofGeorgEbers’s,butaddedtotheregularfeeforthechurchagiftworthyofanineditedlegend。
EventhentheyhadapleasureinherenthusiasmrarelyimpartedbytheNurembergmanner。Theymissedtheretheconstant,sweetcivilityofCarlsbad,andfoundthemselvesfallingflatintheirendeavorsforalittlecordiality。TheyindeedinspiredwithsomekindnesstheoldwomanwhoshowedthemthroughthatcemeterywhereAlbertDurerandHansSachsandmanyotherillustriouscitizenslieburiedundermonumentalbrassesofsuchbeauty:
“Thatkingstohavethelike,mightwishtodie。”
Butthismusthavebeenbecausetheyabandonedthemselvessowillinglytothefascinationofthebronzeskullonthetombofafourteenth-centurypatrician,whichhadtheuncommonadvantageofalowerjawhingedtotheupper。Sheproudlyclappeditupanddownfortheirastonishment,andwaited,withatoothlesssmile,toletthemdiscoverthebeadofanailartfullyfiguredintheskull;thenshegaveashrillcackleofjoy,andgleefullyexplainedthatthewifeofthispatricianhadkilledhimbydrivinganailintohistemple,andhadbeenfitlybeheadedforthemurder。
Shecaredsomuchfornothingelseinthecemetery,butsheconsentedtoletthemwonderattherichnessofthesculptureintheleveltombs,withtheirescutcheonsandmemorialtablets,overrunbythelonggrassandthemattedivy;sheevenconsentedtosharetheirindignationatthedestructionofsomeofthebrassesandthetheftofothers。Shesufferedmorereluctantlytheirtendernessfortheold,oldcrucifixionfiguredinsculptureatonecornerofthecemetery,wheretheanguishoftheChristhadlongsincefadedintothestonefromwhichithadbeenevoked,andthethieveswerenolongerdistinguishableintheirpenitenceorimpenitence;butshepartedfriendswiththemwhenshesawhowmuchtheyseemedtakenwiththevotivechapelofthenobleHolzschuhfamily,wherealineofwoodenshoespunsuponthenameinthefrieze,likethelineofdogswhichchaseoneanother,withbonesintheirmouths,aroundtheCanossapalaceatVerona。AsenseofthebeautifulhousebytheAdigewaspartofthepleasingconfusionwhichpossessedtheminNurembergwhenevertheycameupontheexpressionofthegothicspiritcommonbothtotheGermanandnorthernItalianart。TheyknewthatitwasaneffectwhichhadpassedfromGermanyintoItaly,butintheliberalairoftheolderlandithadcometosomuchmorebeautythatnow,whentheyfounditinitshome,itseemedsomethingfetchedfromovertheAlpsandcoarsenedintheattempttonaturalizeittoanalienair。
IntheGermanicMuseumtheyfledtotheItalianpaintersfromtheGermanpicturestheyhadinspired;inthegreathalloftheRathhausthenobleProcessionalofDurerwasthemoreprecious,becausehisTriumphofMaximiliansomehowsuggestedMantegna’sTriumphofCaesar。Therewastobeabanquetinthehall,underthemightyfresco,towelcometheGermanEmperor,comingthenextweek,andtheRathhauswasfullofwork-peoplefurbishingitupagainsthisarrival,andmakingitdifficultforthecustodianwhohaditinchargetoshowitproperlytostrangers。ShewasofthesameenthusiasticsisterhoodasthevergeressofSt。Lawrenceandtheguardianoftheoldcemetery,andbyamightyeffortsheprevailedovertheworkmensofarastoleadherchargesoutthroughthecorridorwheretheliteralconscienceofthebrothersKuhnhaswroughtintherooftoanexactimageofatournamentasitwasinNurembergfourhundredyearsago。Inthisrelief,throngedwithmenandhorses,thegala-lifeofthepastsurvivesinunexampledfulness;andMarchblamedhimselfafterenjoyingitforhavingfeltinitthattoy-figurequalitywhichseemsthefinaleffectoftheGermangothicisminsculpture。