Encirclingbarrier-reefsareofallsizes,fromthreemilestonolessthanforty-fourmilesindiameter;andthatwhichfrontsoneside,andencirclesbothends,ofNewCaledonia,is400mileslong。Eachreefincludesone,two,orseveralrockyislandsofvariousheights;andinoneinstance,evenasmanyastwelveseparateislands。Thereefrunsatagreaterorlessdistancefromtheincludedland;intheSocietyarchipelagogenerallyfromonetothreeorfourmiles;butatHogoleuthereefis20milesonthesouthernside,and14milesontheoppositeornorthernside,fromtheincludedislands。Thedepthwithinthelagoon-channelalsovariesmuch;
from10to30fathomsmaybetakenasanaverage;butatVanikorotherearespacesnolessthan56fathomsor363feetdeep。Internallythereefeitherslopesgentlyintothelagoon-channel,orendsinaperpendicularwallsometimesbetweentwoandthreehundredfeetunderwaterinheight:
externallythereefrises,likeanatoll,withextremeabruptnessoutoftheprofounddepthsoftheocean。
Whatcanbemoresingularthanthesestructures?Wesee[picture]
anisland,whichmaybecomparedtoacastlesituatedonthesummitofaloftysubmarinemountain,protectedbyagreatwallofcoral-rock,alwayssteepexternallyandsometimesinternally,withabroadlevelsummit,hereandtherebreachedbyanarrowgateway,throughwhichthelargestshipscanenterthewideanddeepencirclingmoat。
Asfarastheactualreefofcoralisconcerned,thereisnotthesmallestdifference,ingeneralsize,outline,grouping,andeveninquitetriflingdetailsofstructure,betweenabarrierandanatoll。ThegeographerBalbihaswellremarked,thatanencircledislandisanatollwithhighlandrisingoutofitslagoon;removethelandfromwithin,andaperfectatollisleft。
Butwhathascausedthesereefstospringupatsuchgreatdistancesfromtheshoresoftheincludedislands?Itcannotbethatthecoralswillnotgrowclosetotheland;fortheshoreswithinthelagoon-channel,whennotsurroundedbyalluvialsoil,areoftenfringedbylivingreefs;andweshallpresentlyseethatthereisawholeclass,whichIhavecalledFringingReefsfromtheircloseattachmenttotheshoresbothofcontinentsandofislands。Again,onwhathavethereef-buildingcorals,whichcannotliveatgreatdepths,basedtheirencirclingstructures?Thisisagreatapparentdifficulty,analogoustothatinthecaseofatolls,whichhasgenerallybeenoverlooked。Itwillbeperceivedmoreclearlybyinspectingthefollowingsectionswhicharerealones,takeninnorthandsouthlines,throughtheislandswiththeirbarrier-reefs,ofVanikoro,Gambier,andMaurua;andtheyarelaiddown,bothverticallyandhorizontally,onthesamescaleofaquarterofaninchtoamile。
Itshouldbeobservedthatthesectionsmighthavebeentakeninanydirectionthroughtheseislands,orthrough[picture]
manyotherencircledislands,andthegeneralfeatureswouldhavebeenthesame。Now,bearinginmindthatreef-buildingcoralcannotliveatagreaterdepththanfrom20to30fathoms,andthatthescaleissosmallthattheplummetsontherighthandshowadepthof200fathoms,onwhatarethesebarrier-reefsbased?Arewetosupposethateachislandissurroundedbyacollar-likesubmarineledgeofrock,orbyagreatbankofsediment,endingabruptlywherethereefends?
Iftheseahadformerlyeatendeeplyintotheislands,beforetheywereprotectedbythereefs,thushavingleftashallowledgeroundthemunderwater,thepresentshoreswouldhavebeeninvariablyboundedbygreatprecipices,butthisismostrarelythecase。Moreover,onthisnotion,itisnotpossibletoexplainwhythecoralsshouldhavesprungup,likeawall,fromtheextremeoutermarginoftheledge,oftenleavingabroadspaceofwaterwithin,toodeepforthegrowthofcorals。Theaccumulationofawidebankofsedimentallroundtheseislands,andgenerallywidestwheretheincludedislandsaresmallest,ishighlyimprobable,consideringtheirexposedpositionsinthecentralanddeepestpartsoftheocean。Inthecaseofthebarrier-reefofNewCaledonia,whichextendsfor150milesbeyondthenorthernpointoftheislands,inthesamestraightlinewithwhichitfrontsthewestcoast,itishardlypossibletobelievethatabankofsedimentcouldthushavebeenstraightlydepositedinfrontofaloftyisland,andsofarbeyonditsterminationintheopensea。Finally,ifwelooktootheroceanicislandsofaboutthesameheightandofsimilargeologicalconstitution,butnotencircledbycoral-reefs,wemayinvainsearchforsotriflingacircumambientdepthas30fathoms,exceptquiteneartotheirshores;forusuallylandthatrisesabruptlyoutofwater,asdomostoftheencircledandnon-encircledoceanicislands,plungesabruptlyunderit。Onwhatthen,Irepeat,arethesebarrierreefsbased?Why,withtheirwideanddeepmoat-likechannels,dotheystandsofarfromtheincludedland?Weshallsoonseehoweasilythesedifficultiesdisappear。
WecomenowtoourthirdclassofFringing-reefs,whichwillrequireaveryshortnotice。Wherethelandslopesabruptlyunderwater,thesereefsareonlyafewyardsinwidth,formingamereribbonorfringeroundtheshores:wherethelandslopesgentlyunderthewaterthereefextendsfurther,sometimesevenasmuchasamilefromtheland;butinsuchcasesthesoundingsoutsidethereefalwaysshowthatthesubmarineprolongationofthelandisgentlyinclined。Infact,thereefsextendonlytothatdistancefromtheshore,atwhichafoundationwithintherequisitedepthfrom20to30fathomsisfound。Asfarastheactualreefisconcerned,thereisnoessentialdifferencebetweenitandthatformingabarrieroranatoll:itis,however,generallyoflesswidth,andconsequentlyfewisletshavebeenformedonit。Fromthecoralsgrowingmorevigorouslyontheoutside,andfromthenoxiouseffectofthesedimentwashedinwards,theouteredgeofthereefisthehighestpart,andbetweenitandthelandthereisgenerallyashallowsandychannelafewfeetindepth。Wherebanksorsedimentshaveaccumulatedneartothesurface,asinpartsoftheWestIndies,theysometimesbecomefringedwithcorals,andhenceinsomedegreeresemblelagoon-islandsoratolls,inthesamemannerasfringing-reefs,surroundinggentlyslopingislands,insomedegreeresemblebarrier-reefs。
Notheoryontheformationofcoral-reefscanbeconsideredsatisfactorywhichdoesnotincludethethreegreat[picture]
classes。Wehaveseenthatwearedriventobelieveinthesubsidenceofthosevastareas,interspersedwithlowislands,ofwhichnotonerisesabovetheheighttowhichthewindandwavescanthrowupmatter,andyetareconstructedbyanimalsrequiringafoundation,andthatfoundationtolieatnogreatdepth。Letusthentakeanislandsurroundedbyfringing-reefs,whichoffernodifficultyintheirstructure;andletthisislandwithitsreefs,representedbytheunbrokenlinesinthewoodcut,slowlysubside。
Now,astheislandsinksdown,eitherafewfeetatatimeorquiteinsensibly,wemaysafelyinfer,fromwhatisknownoftheconditionsfavourabletothegrowthofcoral,thatthelivingmasses,bathedbythesurfonthemarginofthereef,willsoonregainthesurface。Thewater,however,willencroachlittlebylittleontheshore,theislandbecominglowerandsmaller,andthespacebetweentheinneredgeofthereefandthebeachproportionatelybroader。Asectionofthereefandislandinthisstate,afterasubsidenceofseveralhundredfeet,isgivenbythedottedlines。Coralisletsaresupposedtohavebeenformedonthereef;andashipisanchoredinthelagoon-channel。Thischannelwillbemoreorlessdeep,accordingtotherateofsubsidence,totheamountofsedimentaccumulatedinit,andtothegrowthofthedelicatelybranchedcoralswhichcanlivethere。Thesectioninthisstateresemblesineveryrespectonedrawnthroughanencircledisland:infact,itisarealsectiononthescaleof。517ofaninchtoamilethroughBolabolainthePacific。Wecannowatonceseewhyencirclingbarrier-reefsstandsofarfromtheshoreswhichtheyfront。
Wecanalsoperceive,thatalinedrawnperpendicularlydownfromtheouteredgeofthenewreef,tothefoundationofsolidrockbeneaththeoldfringing-reef,willexceedbyasmanyfeetastherehavebeenfeetofsubsidence,thatsmalllimitofdepthatwhichtheeffectivecoralscanlive:——thelittlearchitectshavingbuiltuptheirgreatwall-likemass,asthewholesankdown,uponabasisformedofothercoralsandtheirconsolidatedfragments。
Thusthedifficultyonthishead,whichappearedsogreat,disappears。
If,insteadofanisland,wehadtakentheshoreofacontinentfringedwithreefs,andhadimaginedittohavesubsided,agreatstraightbarrier,likethatofAustraliaorNewCaledonia,separatedfromthelandbyawideanddeepchannel,wouldevidentlyhavebeentheresult。
Letustakeournewencirclingbarrier-reef,ofwhichthesectionisnowrepresentedbyunbrokenlines,andwhich,asIhavesaid,isarealsectionthroughBolabola,andletitgoonsubsiding。Asthebarrier-reefslowlysinksdown,thecoralswillgoonvigorouslygrowingupwards;butastheislandsinks,thewaterwillgaininchbyinchontheshore——theseparatemountainsfirstformingseparateislandswithin[picture]
onegreatreef——andfinally,thelastandhighestpinnacledisappearing。
Theinstantthistakesplace,aperfectatollisformed:Ihavesaid,removethehighlandfromwithinanencirclingbarrier-reef,andanatollisleft,andthelandhasbeenremoved。Wecannowperceivehowitcomesthatatolls,havingsprungfromencirclingbarrier-reefs,resemblethemingeneralsize,form,inthemannerinwhichtheyaregroupedtogether,andintheirarrangementinsingleordoublelines;fortheymaybecalledrudeoutlinechartsofthesunkenislandsoverwhichtheystand。WecanfurtherseehowitarisesthattheatollsinthePacificandIndianOceansextendinlinesparalleltothegenerallyprevailingstrikeofthehighislandsandgreatcoast-linesofthoseoceans。Iventure,therefore,toaffirm,thatonthetheoryoftheupwardgrowthofthecoralsduringthesinkingoftheland,[13]alltheleadingfeaturesinthosewonderfulstructures,thelagoon-islandsoratolls,whichhavesolongexcitedtheattentionofvoyagers,aswellasinthenolesswonderfulbarrier-reefs,whetherencirclingsmallislandsorstretchingforhundredsofmilesalongtheshoresofacontinent,aresimplyexplained。
Itmaybeasked,whetherIcanofferanydirectevidenceofthesubsidenceofbarrier-reefsoratolls;butitmustbeborneinmindhowdifficultitmusteverbetodetectamovement,thetendencyofwhichistohideunderwaterthepartaffected。Nevertheless,atKeelingatollIobservedonallsidesofthelagoonoldcocoa-nuttreesunderminedandfalling;
andinoneplacethefoundation-postsofashed,whichtheinhabitantsassertedhadstoodsevenyearsbeforejustabovehigh-watermark,butnowwasdailywashedbyeverytide:oninquiryIfoundthatthreeearthquakes,oneofthemsevere,hadbeenfelthereduringthelasttenyears。AtVanikoro,thelagoon-channelisremarkablydeep,scarcelyanyalluvialsoilhasaccumulatedatthefootoftheloftyincludedmountains,andremarkablyfewisletshavebeenformedbytheheapingoffragmentsandsandonthewall-likebarrierreef;thesefacts,andsomeanalogousones,ledmetobelievethatthisislandmustlatelyhavesubsidedandthereefgrownupwards:hereagainearthquakesarefrequentandverysevere。IntheSocietyarchipelago,ontheotherhand,wherethelagoon-channelsarealmostchokedup,wheremuchlowalluviallandhasaccumulated,andwhereinsomecaseslongisletshavebeenformedonthebarrier-reefs——factsallshowingthattheislandshavenotverylatelysubsided——onlyfeebleshocksaremostrarelyfelt。
Inthesecoralformations,wherethelandandwaterseemstrugglingformastery,itmustbeeverdifficulttodecidebetweentheeffectsofachangeinthesetofthetidesandofaslightsubsidence:thatmanyofthesereefsandatollsaresubjecttochangesofsomekindiscertain;onsomeatollstheisletsappeartohaveincreasedgreatlywithinalateperiod;
onotherstheyhavebeenpartiallyorwhollywashedaway。TheinhabitantsofpartsoftheMaldivaarchipelagoknowthedateofthefirstformationofsomeislets;inotherparts,thecoralsarenowflourishingonwater-washedreefs,whereholesmadeforgravesattesttheformerexistenceofinhabitedland。Itisdifficulttobelieveinfrequentchangesinthetidalcurrentsofanopenocean;whereas,wehaveintheearthquakesrecordedbythenativesonsomeatolls,andinthegreatfissuresobservedonotheratolls,plainevidenceofchangesanddisturbancesinprogressinthesubterraneanregions。
Itisevident,onourtheory,thatcoastsmerelyfringedbyreefscannothavesubsidedtoanyperceptibleamount;andthereforetheymust,sincethegrowthoftheircorals,eitherhaveremainedstationaryorhavebeenupheaved。Now,itisremarkablehowgenerallyitcanbeshown,bythepresenceofupraisedorganicremains,thatthefringedislandshavebeenelevated: