Afterseveraltediousdelaysfromcloudedweather,onthe14thofMarch,wegladlystoodoutofKingGeorge’sSoundonourcoursetoKeelingIsland。
Farewell,Australia!youarearisingchild,anddoubtlesssomedaywillreignagreatprincessintheSouth:butyouaretoogreatandambitiousforaffection,yetnotgreatenoughforrespect。Ileaveyourshoreswithoutsorroworregret。[1]Itisremarkablehowthesamediseaseismodifiedindifferentclimates。AtthelittleislandofSt。Helenatheintroductionofscarletfeverisdreadedasaplague。Insomecountries,foreignersandnativesareasdifferentlyaffectedbycertaincontagiousdisordersasiftheyhadbeendifferentanimals;ofwhichfactsomeinstanceshaveoccurredinChile;and,accordingtoHumboldt,inMexicoPolit。Essay,NewSpain,vol。iv。。
[2]NarrativeofMissionaryEnterprise,p。282。
[3]CaptainBeecheychap。iv。,vol。i。statesthattheinhabitantsofPitcairnIslandarefirmlyconvincedthatafterthearrivalofeveryshiptheysuffercutaneousandotherdisorders。CaptainBeecheyattributesthistothechangeofdietduringthetimeofthevisit。
Dr。MaccullochWesternIsles,vol。ii。p。32says:“Itisasserted,thatonthearrivalofastrangeratSt。Kildaalltheinhabitants,inthecommonphraseology,catchacold。”Dr。Maccullochconsidersthewholecase,althoughoftenpreviouslyaffirmed,asludicrous。Headds,however,that“thequestionwasputbyustotheinhabitantswhounanimouslyagreedinthestory。”InVancouver’sVoyage,thereisasomewhatsimilarstatementwithrespecttoOtaheite。Dr。Dieffenbach,inanotetohistranslationoftheJournal,statesthatthesamefactisuniversallybelievedbytheinhabitantsoftheChathamIslands,andinpartsofNewZealand。Itisimpossiblethatsuchabeliefshouldhavebecomeuniversalinthenorthernhemisphere,attheAntipodes,andinthePacific,withoutsomegoodfoundation。
HumboldtPolit。EssayonKingofNewSpain,vol。iv。says,thatthegreatepidemicsofPanamaandCallaoare“marked“bythearrivalofshipsfromChile,becausethepeoplefromthattemperateregion,firstexperiencethefataleffectsofthetorridzones。Imayadd,thatIhavehearditstatedinShropshire,thatsheep,whichhavebeenimportedfromvessels,althoughthemselvesinahealthycondition,ifplacedinthesamefoldwithothers,frequentlyproducesicknessintheflock。
[4]TravelsinAustralia,vol。i。p。154。ImustexpressmyobligationtoSirT。Mitchell,forseveralinterestingpersonalcommunicationsonthesubjectofthesegreatvalleysofNewSouthWales。
[5]Iwasinterestedbyfindingherethehollowconicalpitfallofthelion-ant,orsomeotherinsect;firstaflyfelldownthetreacherousslopeandimmediatelydisappeared;thencamealargebutunwaryant;itsstrugglestoescapebeingveryviolent,thosecuriouslittlejetsofsand,describedbyKirbyandSpenceEntomol。,vol。i。p。
425asbeingflirtedbytheinsect’stail,werepromptlydirectedagainsttheexpectedvictim。Buttheantenjoyedabetterfatethanthefly,andescapedthefataljawswhichlayconcealedatthebaseoftheconicalhollow。
ThisAustralianpitfallwasonlyabouthalfthesizeofthatmadebytheEuropeanlion-ant。
[6]PhysicalDescriptionofNewSouthWalesandVanDiemen’sLand,p。354。PreviousChapterNextChapterTheVoyageoftheBeagle-Chapter20TheVoyageoftheBeaglebyCharlesDarwinPreviousChapterNextChapterChapter20-KeelingIsland:——CoralFormationsAPRIL1st——WearrivedinviewoftheKeelingorCocosIslands,situatedintheIndianOcean,andaboutsixhundredmilesdistantfromthecoastofSumatra。Thisisoneofthelagoon-islandsoratollsofcoralformation,similartothoseintheLowArchipelagowhichwepassednear。Whentheshipwasinthechannelattheentrance,Mr。Liesk,anEnglishresident,cameoffinhisboat。Thehistoryoftheinhabitantsofthisplace,inasfewwordsaspossible,isasfollows。Aboutnineyearsago,Mr。Hare,aworthlesscharacter,broughtfromtheEastIndianarchipelagoanumberofMalayslaves,whichnowincludingchildren,amounttomorethanahundred。
Shortlyafterwards,CaptainRoss,whohadbeforevisitedtheseislandsinhismerchant-ship,arrivedfromEngland,bringingwithhimhisfamilyandgoodsforsettlementalongwithhimcameMr。Liesk,whohadbeenamateinhisvessel。TheMalayslavessoonranawayfromtheisletonwhichMr。Harewassettled,andjoinedCaptainRoss’sparty。Mr。Hareuponthiswasultimatelyobligedtoleavetheplace。
TheMalaysarenownominallyinastateoffreedom,andcertainlyareso,asfarasregardstheirpersonaltreatment;butinmostotherpointstheyareconsideredasslaves。Fromtheirdiscontentedstate,fromtherepeatedremovalsfromislettoislet,andperhapsalsofromalittlemismanagement,thingsarenotveryprosperous。Theislandhasnodomesticquadruped,exceptingthepig,andthemainvegetableproductionisthecocoa-nut。Thewholeprosperityoftheplacedependsonthistree:theonlyexportsbeingoilfromthenut,andthenutsthemselves,whicharetakentoSingaporeandMauritius,wheretheyarechieflyused,whengrated,inmakingcurries。
Onthecocoa-nut,also,thepigs,whichareloadedwithfat,almostentirelysubsist,asdotheducksandpoultry。Evenahugeland-crabisfurnishedbynaturewiththemeanstoopenandfeedonthismostusefulproduction。
Thering-formedreefofthelagoon-islandissurmountedinthegreaterpartofitslengthbylinearislets。Onthenorthernorleewardside,thereisanopeningthroughwhichvesselscanpasstotheanchoragewithin。Onentering,thescenewasverycuriousandratherpretty;itsbeauty,however,entirelydependedonthebrilliancyofthesurroundingcolours。Theshallow,clear,andstillwaterofthelagoon,restinginitsgreaterpartonwhitesand,is,whenilluminedbyaverticalsun,ofthemostvividgreen。Thisbrilliantexpanse,severalmilesinwidth,isonallsidesdivided,eitherbyalineofsnow-whitebreakersfromthedarkheavingwatersoftheocean,orfromthebluevaultofheavenbythestripsofland,crownedbytheleveltopsofthecocoa-nuttrees。Asawhitecloudhereandthereaffordsapleasingcontrastwiththeazuresky,sointhelagoon,bandsoflivingcoraldarkentheemeraldgreenwater。
Thenextmorningafteranchoring,IwentonshoreonDirectionIsland。
Thestripofdrylandisonlyafewhundredyardsinwidth;onthelagoonsidethereisawhitecalcareousbeach,theradiationfromwhichunderthissultryclimatewasveryoppressive;andontheoutercoast,asolidbroadflatofcoral-rockservedtobreaktheviolenceoftheopensea。
Exceptingnearthelagoon,wherethereissomesand,thelandisentirelycomposedofroundedfragmentsofcoral。Insuchaloose,dry,stonysoil,theclimateoftheintertropicalregionsalonecouldproduceavigorousvegetation。Onsomeofthesmallerislets,nothingcouldbemoreelegantthanthemannerinwhichtheyoungandfull-growncocoa-nuttrees,withoutdestroyingeachother’ssymmetry,weremingledintoonewood。Abeachofglitteringwhitesandformedabordertothesefairyspots。
Iwillnowgiveasketchofthenaturalhistoryoftheseislands,which,fromitsverypaucity,possessesapeculiarinterest。Thecocoa-nuttree,atfirstglance,seemstocomposethewholewood;therearehowever,fiveorsixothertrees。Oneofthesegrowstoaverylargesize,butfromtheextremesofsoftnessofitswood,isuseless;anothersortaffordsexcellenttimberforship-building。Besidesthetrees,thenumberofplantsisexceedinglylimited,andconsistsofinsignificantweeds。Inmycollection,whichincludes,Ibelieve,nearlytheperfectFlora,therearetwentyspecies,withoutreckoningamoss,lichen,andfungus。Tothisnumbertwotreesmustbeadded;oneofwhichwasnotinflower,andtheotherIonlyheardof。Thelatterisasolitarytreeofitskind,andgrowsnearthebeach,where,withoutdoubt,theoneseedwasthrownupbythewaves。AGuilandinaalsogrowsononlyoneoftheislets。Idonotincludeintheabovelistthesugar-cane,banana,someothervegetables,fruit-trees,andimportedgrasses。
Astheislandsconsistentirelyofcoral,andatonetimemusthaveexistedasmerewater-washedreefs,alltheirterrestrialproductionsmusthavebeentransportedherebythewavesofthesea。Inaccordancewiththis,theFlorulahasquitethecharacterofarefugeforthedestitute:ProfessorHenslowinformsmethatofthetwentyspeciesnineteenbelongtodifferentgenera,andtheseagaintonolessthansixteenfamilies![1]
InHolman’s[2]Travelsanaccountisgiven,ontheauthorityofMr。A。S。Keating,whoresidedtwelvemonthsontheseislands,ofthevariousseedsandotherbodieswhichhavebeenknowntohavebeenwashedonshore。“SeedsandplantsfromSumatraandJavahavebeendrivenupbythesurfonthewindwardsideoftheislands。AmongthemhavebeenfoundtheKimiri,nativeofSumatraandthepeninsulaofMalacca;
thecocoa-nutofBalci,knownbyitsshapeandsize;theDadass,whichisplantedbytheMalayswiththepepper-vine,thelatterintwiningrounditstrunk,andsupportingitselfbythepricklesonitsstem;thesoap-tree;
thecastor-oilplant;trunksofthesagopalm;andvariouskindsofseedsunknowntotheMalayssettledontheislands。TheseareallsupposedtohavebeendrivenbytheN。W。monsoontothecoastofNewHolland,andthencetotheseislandsbytheS。E。trade-wind。LargemassesofJavateakandYellowwoodhavealsobeenfound,besidesimmensetreesofredandwhitecedar,andthebluegumwoodofNewHolland,inaperfectlysoundcondition。Allthehardyseeds,suchascreepers,retaintheirgerminatingpower,butthesofterkinds,amongwhichisthemangostin,aredestroyedinthepassage。Fishing-canoes,apparentlyfromJava,haveattimesbeenwashedonshore。”Itisinterestingthustodiscoverhownumeroustheseedsare,which,comingfromseveralcountries,aredriftedoverthewideocean。
ProfessorHenslowtellsme,hebelievesthatnearlyalltheplantswhichIbroughtfromtheseislands,arecommonlittoralspeciesintheEastIndianarchipelago。Fromthedirection,however,ofthewindsandcurrents,itseemsscarcelypossiblethattheycouldhavecomehereinadirectline。
If,assuggestedwithmuchprobabilitybyMr。Keating,theywerefirstcarriedtowardsthecoastofNewHolland,andthencedriftedbacktogetherwiththeproductionsofthatcountry,theseeds,beforegerminating,musthavetravelledbetween1800and2400miles。
Chamisso,[3]whendescribingtheRadackArchipelago,situatedinthewesternpartofthePacific,statesthat“theseabringstotheseislandstheseedsandfruitsofmanytrees,mostofwhichhaveyetnotgrownhere。Thegreaterpartoftheseseedsappeartohavenotyetlostthecapabilityofgrowing。”
Itisalsosaidthatpalmsandbamboosfromsomewhereinthetorridzone,andtrunksofnorthernfirs,arewashedonshore:thesefirsmusthavecomefromanimmensedistance。Thesefactsarehighlyinteresting。
Itcannotbedoubtedthatiftherewereland-birdstopickuptheseedswhenfirstcastonshore,andasoilbetteradaptedfortheirgrowththanthelooseblocksofcoral,thatthemostisolatedofthelagoon-islandswouldintimepossessafarmoreabundantFlorathantheynowhave。
Thelistoflandanimalsisevenpoorerthanthatoftheplants。Someoftheisletsareinhabitedbyrats,whichwerebroughtinashipfromtheMauritius,wreckedhere。TheseratsareconsideredbyMr。WaterhouseasidenticalwiththeEnglishkind,buttheyaresmaller,andmorebrightlycoloured。Therearenotrueland-birds,forasnipeandarailRallusPhillippensis,thoughlivingentirelyinthedryherbage,belongtotheorderofWaders。BirdsofthisorderaresaidtooccuronseveralofthesmalllowislandsinthePacific。AtAscension,wherethereisnoland-bird,arailPorphyriosimplexwasshotnearthesummitofthemountain,anditwasevidentlyasolitarystraggler。AtTristand’Acunha,where,accordingtoCarmichael,thereareonlytwoland-birds,thereisacoot。FromthesefactsIbelievethatthewaders,aftertheinnumerableweb-footedspecies,aregenerallythefirstcolonistsofsmallisolatedislands。Imayadd,thatwheneverInoticedbirds,notofoceanicspecies,veryfaroutatsea,theyalwaysbelongedtothisorder;andhencetheywouldnaturallybecometheearliestcolonistsofanyremotepointofland。
OfreptilesIsawonlyonesmalllizard。OfinsectsItookpainstocollecteverykind。Exclusiveofspiders,whichwerenumerous,therewerethirteenspecies。[4]Ofthese,oneonlywasabeetle。
Asmallantswarmedbythousandsundertheloosedryblocksofcoral,andwastheonlytrueinsectwhichwasabundant。Althoughtheproductionsofthelandarethusscanty,ifwelooktothewatersofthesurroundingsea,thenumberoforganicbeingsisindeedinfinite。Chamissohasdescribed[5]thenaturalhistoryofalagoon-islandintheRadackArchipelago;anditisremarkablehowcloselyitsinhabitants,innumberandkind,resemblethoseofKeelingIsland。Thereisonelizardandtwowaders,namely,asnipeandcurlew。Ofplantstherearenineteenspecies,includingafern;andsomeofthesearethesamewiththosegrowinghere,thoughonaspotsoimmenselyremote,andinadifferentocean。