首页 >出版文学> THE VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE>第76章
  Withrespecttothestateoftheconvicts,Ihadstillfeweropportunitiesofjudgingthanonotherpoints。Thefirstquestionis,whethertheirconditionisatalloneofpunishment:noonewillmaintainthatitisaverysevereone。This,however,Isuppose,isoflittleconsequenceaslongasitcontinuestobeanobjectofdreadtocriminalsathome。Thecorporealwantsoftheconvictsaretolerablywellsupplied:theirprospectoffuturelibertyandcomfortisnotdistant,and,aftergoodconduct,certain。A“ticketofleave。”which,aslongasamankeepsclearofsuspicionaswellasofcrime,makeshimfreewithinacertaindistrict,isgivenupongoodconduct,afteryearsproportionaltothelengthofthesentence;yetwithallthis,andoverlookingthepreviousimprisonmentandwretchedpassageout,Ibelievetheyearsofassignmentarepassedawaywithdiscontentandunhappiness。Asanintelligentmanremarkedtome,theconvictsknownopleasurebeyondsensuality,andinthistheyarenotgratified。TheenormousbribewhichGovernmentpossessesinofferingfreepardons,togetherwiththedeephorrorofthesecludedpenalsettlements,destroysconfidencebetweentheconvicts,andsopreventscrime。Astoasenseofshame,suchafeelingdoesnotappeartobeknown,andofthisIwitnessedsomeverysingularproofs。Thoughitisacuriousfact,Iwasuniversallytoldthatthecharacteroftheconvictpopulationisoneofarrantcowardice:notunfrequentlysomebecomedesperate,andquiteindifferentastolife,yetaplanrequiringcoolorcontinuedcourageisseldomputintoexecution。
  Theworstfeatureinthewholecaseis,thatalthoughthereexistswhatmaybecalledalegalreform,andcomparativelylittleiscommittedwhichthelawcantouch,yetthatanymoralreformshouldtakeplaceappearstobequiteoutofthequestion。Iwasassuredbywell-informedpeople,thatamanwhoshouldtrytoimprove,couldnotwhilelivingwithotherassignedservants;——hislifewouldbeoneofintolerablemiseryandpersecution。
  Normustthecontaminationoftheconvict-shipsandprisons,bothhereandinEngland,beforgotten。Onthewhole,asaplaceofpunishment,theobjectisscarcelygained;asarealsystemofreformithasfailed,asperhapswouldeveryotherplan;butasameansofmakingmenoutwardlyhonest,——ofconvertingvagabonds,mostuselessinonehemisphere,intoactivecitizensofanother,andthusgivingbirthtoanewandsplendidcountry——agrandcentreofcivilization——ithassucceededtoadegreeperhapsunparalleledinhistory。
  30th——TheBeaglesailedforHobartTowninVanDiemen’sLand。Onthe5thofFebruary,afterasixdays’passage,ofwhichthefirstpartwasfine,andthelatterverycoldandsqually,weenteredthemouthofStormBay:theweatherjustifiedthisawfulname。Thebayshouldratherbecalledanestuary,foritreceivesatitsheadthewatersoftheDerwent。
  Nearthemouth,therearesomeextensivebasalticplatforms;buthigherupthelandbecomesmountainous,andiscoveredbyalightwood。Thelowerpartsofthehillswhichskirtthebayarecleared;andthebrightyellowfieldsofcorn,anddarkgreenonesofpotatoes,appearveryluxuriant。
  Lateintheeveningweanchoredinthesnugcove,ontheshoresofwhichstandsthecapitalofTasmania。ThefirstaspectoftheplacewasveryinferiortothatofSydney;thelattermightbecalledacity,thisisonlyatown。ItstandsatthebaseofMountWellington,amountain3100
  feethigh,butoflittlepicturesquebeauty;fromthissource,however,itreceivesagoodsupplyofwater。Roundthecovetherearesomefinewarehousesandononesideasmallfort。ComingfromtheSpanishsettlements,wheresuchmagnificentcarehasgenerallybeenpaidtothefortifications,themeansofdefenceinthesecoloniesappearedverycontemptible。ComparingthetownwithSydney,Iwaschieflystruckwiththecomparativefewnessofthelargehouses,eitherbuiltorbuilding。HobartTown,fromthecensusof1835,contained13,826inhabitants,andthewholeofTasmania36,505。
  AlltheaborigineshavebeenremovedtoanislandinBass’sStraits,sothatVanDiemen’sLandenjoysthegreatadvantageofbeingfreefromanativepopulation。Thismostcruelstepseemstohavebeenquiteunavoidable,astheonlymeansofstoppingafearfulsuccessionofrobberies,burnings,andmurders,committedbytheblacks;andwhichsoonerorlaterwouldhaveendedintheirutterdestruction。Ifearthereisnodoubt,thatthistrainofevilanditsconsequences,originatedintheinfamousconductofsomeofourcountrymen。Thirtyyearsisashortperiod,inwhichtohavebanishedthelastaboriginalfromhisnativeisland,——andthatislandnearlyaslargeasIreland。Thecorrespondenceonthissubject,whichtookplacebetweenthegovernmentathomeandthatofVanDiemen’sLand,isveryinteresting。
  Althoughnumbersofnativeswereshotandtakenprisonersintheskirmishing,whichwasgoingonatintervalsforseveralyears;nothingseemsfullytohaveimpressedthemwiththeideaofouroverwhelmingpower,untilthewholeisland,in1830,wasputundermartiallaw,andbyproclamationthewholepopulationcommandedtoassistinonegreatattempttosecuretheentirerace。Theplanadoptedwasnearlysimilartothatofthegreathunting-matchesinIndia:alinewasformedreachingacrosstheisland,withtheintentionofdrivingthenativesintoa_cul-de-sac_onTasman’speninsula。Theattemptfailed;thenatives,havingtieduptheirdogs,stoleduringonenightthroughthelines。Thisisfarfromsurprising,whentheirpractisedsenses,andusualmannerofcrawlingafterwildanimalsisconsidered。Ihavebeenassuredthattheycanconcealthemselvesonalmostbareground,inamannerwhichuntilwitnessedisscarcelycredible;theirduskybodiesbeingeasilymistakenfortheblackenedstumpswhicharescatteredalloverthecountry。
  IwastoldofatrialbetweenapartyofEnglishmenandanative,whowastostandinfullviewonthesideofabarehill;iftheEnglishmenclosedtheireyesforlessthanaminute,hewouldsquatdown,andthentheywereneverabletodistinguishhimfromthesurroundingstumps。Buttoreturntothehunting-match;thenativesunderstandingthiskindofwarfare,wereterriblyalarmed,fortheyatonceperceivedthepowerandnumbersofthewhites。Shortlyafterwardsapartyofthirteenbelongingtotwotribescamein;and,consciousoftheirunprotectedcondition,deliveredthemselvesupindespair。SubsequentlybytheintrepidexertionsofMr。Robinson,anactiveandbenevolentman,whofearlesslyvisitedbyhimselfthemosthostileofthenatives,thewholewereinducedtoactinasimilarmanner。
  Theywerethenremovedtoanisland,wherefoodandclotheswereprovidedthem。CountStrzeleckistates,[6]that“attheepochoftheirdeportationin1835,thenumberofnativesamountedto210。In1842,thatis,aftertheintervalofsevenyears,theymusteredonlyfifty-fourindividuals;and,whileeachfamilyoftheinteriorofNewSouthWales,uncontaminatedbycontactwiththewhites,swarmswithchildren,thoseofFlinders’Islandhadduringeightyearsanaccessionofonlyfourteeninnumber!”
  TheBeaglestayedheretendays,andinthistimeImadeseveralpleasantlittleexcursions,chieflywiththeobjectofexaminingthegeologicalstructureoftheimmediateneighbourhood。Themainpointsofinterestconsist,firstinsomehighlyfossiliferousstrata,belongingtotheDevonianorCarboniferousperiod;secondly,inproofsofalatesmallriseoftheland;
  andlastly,inasolitaryandsuperficialpatchofyellowishlimestoneortravertin,whichcontainsnumerousimpressionsofleavesoftrees,togetherwithland-shells,notnowexisting。ItisnotimprobablethatthisonesmallquarryincludestheonlyremainingrecordofthevegetationofVanDiemen’sLandduringoneformerepoch。
  TheclimatehereisdamperthaninNewSouthWales,andhencethelandismorefertile。Agricultureflourishes;thecultivatedfieldslookwell,andthegardensaboundwiththrivingvegetablesandfruit-trees。Someofthefarmhouses,situatedinretiredspots,hadaveryattractiveappearance。
  ThegeneralaspectofthevegetationissimilartothatofAustralia;perhapsitisalittlemoregreenandcheerful;andthepasturebetweenthetreesrathermoreabundant。OnedayItookalongwalkonthesideofthebayoppositetothetown:Icrossedinasteamboat,twoofwhichareconstantlyplyingbackwardsandforwards。Themachineryofoneofthesevesselswasentirelymanufacturedinthiscolony,which,fromitsveryfoundation,thennumberedonlythreeandthirtyyears!AnotherdayIascendedMountWellington;Itookwithmeaguide,forIfailedinafirstattempt,fromthethicknessofthewood。Ourguide,however,wasastupidfellow,andconductedustothesouthernanddampsideofthemountain,wherethevegetationwasveryluxuriant;andwherethelabouroftheascent,fromthenumberofrottentrunks,wasalmostasgreatasonamountaininTierradelFuegoorinChiloe。Itcostusfiveandahalfhoursofhardclimbingbeforewereachedthesummit。InmanypartstheEucalyptigrewtoagreatsize,andcomposedanobleforest。Insomeofthedampestravines,tree-fernsflourishedinanextraordinarymanner;Isawonewhichmusthavebeenatleasttwentyfeethightothebaseofthefronds,andwasingirthexactlysixfeet。Thefrondsformingthemostelegantparasols,producedagloomyshade,likethatofthefirsthourofthenight。Thesummitofthemountainisbroadandflat,andiscomposedofhugeangularmassesofnakedgreenstone。
  Itselevationis3100feetabovethelevelofthesea。Thedaywassplendidlyclear,andweenjoyedamostextensiveview;tothenorth,thecountryappearedamassofwoodedmountains,ofaboutthesameheightwiththatonwhichwewerestanding,andwithanequallytameoutline:tothesouththebrokenlandandwater,formingmanyintricatebays,wasmappedwithclearnessbeforeus。Afterstayingsomehoursonthesummit,wefoundabetterwaytodescend,butdidnotreachtheBeagletilleighto’clock,afterasevereday’swork。
  February7th——TheBeaglesailedfromTasmania,and,onthe6thoftheensuingmonth,reachedKingGeorge’sSound,situatedclosetotheS。
  W。cornerofAustralia。Westayedthereeightdays;andwedidnotduringourvoyagepassamoredullanduninterestingtime。Thecountry,viewedfromaneminence,appearsawoodyplain,withhereandthereroundedandpartlybarehillsofgraniteprotruding。OnedayIwentoutwithaparty,inhopesofseeingakangaroohunt,andwalkedoveragoodmanymilesofcountry。Everywherewefoundthesoilsandy,andverypoor;itsupportedeitheracoarsevegetationofthin,lowbrushwoodandwirygrass,oraforestofstuntedtrees。ThesceneryresembledthatofthehighsandstoneplatformoftheBlueMountains;theCasuarinaatreesomewhatresemblingaScotchfiris,however,hereingreaternumber,andtheEucalyptusinratherless。Intheopenpartsthereweremanygrass-trees,——aplantwhich,inappearance,hassomeaffinitywiththepalm;but,insteadofbeingsurmountedbyacrownofnoblefronds,itcanboastmerelyofatuftofverycoarsegrass-likeleaves。Thegeneralbrightgreencolourofthebrushwoodandotherplants,viewedfromadistance,seemedtopromisefertility。
  Asinglewalk,however,wasenoughtodispelsuchanillusion;andhewhothinkswithmewillneverwishtowalkagaininsouninvitingacountry。
  OnedayIaccompaniedCaptainFitzRoytoBaldHead;theplacementionedbysomanynavigators,wheresomeimaginedthattheysawcorals,andothersthattheysawpetrifiedtrees,standinginthepositioninwhichtheyhadgrown。Accordingtoourview,thebedshavebeenformedbythewindhavingheapedupfinesand,composedofminuteroundedparticlesofshellsandcorals,duringwhichprocessbranchesandrootsoftrees,togetherwithmanyland-shells,becameenclosed。Thewholethenbecameconsolidatedbythepercolationofcalcareousmatter;andthecylindricalcavitiesleftbythedecayingofthewood,werethusalsofilledupwithahardpseudo-stalacticalstone。Theweatherisnowwearingawaythesofterparts,andinconsequencethehardcastsoftherootsandbranchesofthetreesprojectabovethesurface,and,inasingularlydeceptivemanner,resemblethestumpsofadeadthicket。
  Alargetribeofnatives,calledtheWhiteCockatoomenhappenedtopaythesettlementavisitwhilewewerethere。Thesemen,aswellasthoseofthetribebelongingtoKingGeorge’sSound,beingtemptedbytheofferofsometubsofriceandsugar,werepersuadedtoholda“corrobery。”orgreatdancing-party。Assoonasitgrewdark,smallfireswerelighted,andthemencommencedtheirtoilet,whichconsistedinpaintingthemselveswhiteinspotsandlines。Assoonasallwasready,largefireswerekeptblazing,roundwhichthewomenandchildrenwerecollectedasspectators;
  theCockatooandKingGeorge’smenformedtwodistinctparties,andgenerallydancedinanswertoeachother。ThedancingconsistedintheirrunningeithersidewaysorinIndianfileintoanopenspace,andstampingthegroundwithgreatforceastheymarchedtogether。Theirheavyfootstepswereaccompaniedbyakindofgrunt,bybeatingtheirclubsandspearstogether,andbyvariousothergesticulations,suchasextendingtheirarmsandwrigglingtheirbodies。Itwasamostrude,barbarousscene,and,toourideas,withoutanysortofmeaning;butweobservedthattheblackwomenandchildrenwatcheditwiththegreatestpleasure。Perhapsthesedancesoriginallyrepresentedactions,suchaswarsandvictories;therewasonecalledtheEmudance,inwhicheachmanextendedhisarminabentmanner,liketheneckofthatbird。Inanotherdance,onemanimitatedthemovementsofakangaroograzinginthewoods,whilstasecondcrawledup,andpretendedtospearhim。Whenbothtribesmingledinthedance,thegroundtrembledwiththeheavinessoftheirsteps,andtheairresoundedwiththeirwildcries。Everyoneappearedinhighspirits,andthegroupofnearlynakedfigures,viewedbythelightoftheblazingfires,allmovinginhideousharmony,formedaperfectdisplayofafestivalamongstthelowestbarbarians。InTierradelFuego,wehavebeheldmanycuriousscenesinsavagelife,butnever,Ithink,onewherethenativeswereinsuchhighspirits,andsoperfectlyattheirease。Afterthedancingwasover,thewholepartyformedagreatcircleontheground,andtheboiledriceandsugarwasdistributed,tothedelightofall。