TheextremeuniformityofthevegetationisthemostremarkablefeatureinthelandscapeofthegreaterpartofNewSouthWales。Everywherewehaveanopenwoodland,thegroundbeingpartiallycoveredwithaverythinpasture,withlittleappearanceofverdure。Thetreesnearlyallbelongtoonefamily,andmostlyhavetheirleavesplacedinavertical,insteadofasinEurope,inanearlyhorizontalposition:thefoliageisscanty,andofapeculiarpalegreentint,withoutanygloss。Hencethewoodsappearlightandshadowless:this,althoughalossofcomforttothetravellerunderthescorchingraysofsummer,isofimportancetothefarmer,asitallowsgrasstogrowwhereitotherwisewouldnot。Theleavesarenotshedperiodically:thischaracterappearscommontotheentiresouthernhemisphere,namely,SouthAmerica,Australia,andtheCapeofGoodHope。
Theinhabitantsofthishemisphere,andoftheintertropicalregions,thusloseperhapsoneofthemostglorious,thoughtooureyescommon,spectaclesintheworld——thefirstburstingintofullfoliageoftheleaflesstree。
Theymay,however,saythatwepaydearlyforthisbyhavingthelandcoveredwithmerenakedskeletonsforsomanymonths。Thisistootruebutoursensesthusacquireakeenrelishfortheexquisitegreenofthespring,whichtheeyesofthoselivingwithinthetropics,satedduringthelongyearwiththegorgeousproductionsofthoseglowingclimates,canneverexperience。Thegreaternumberofthetrees,withtheexceptionofsomeoftheBlue-gums,donotattainalargesize;buttheygrowtallandtolerablystraight,andstandwellapart。ThebarkofsomeoftheEucalyptifallsannually,orhangsdeadinlongshredswhichswingaboutwiththewind,andgivetothewoodsadesolateanduntidyappearance。Icannotimagineamorecompletecontrast,ineveryrespect,thanbetweentheforestsofValdiviaorChiloe,andthewoodsofAustralia。
Atsunset,apartyofascoreoftheblackaboriginespassedby,eachcarrying,intheiraccustomedmanner,abundleofspearsandotherweapons。
Bygivingaleadingyoungmanashilling,theywereeasilydetained,andthrewtheirspearsformyamusement。Theywereallpartlyclothed,andseveralcouldspeakalittleEnglish:theircountenancesweregood-humouredandpleasant,andtheyappearedfarfrombeingsuchutterlydegradedbeingsastheyhaveusuallybeenrepresented。Intheirownartstheyareadmirable。
Acapbeingfixedatthirtyyardsdistance,theytransfixeditwithaspear,deliveredbythethrowing-stickwiththerapidityofanarrowfromthebowofapractisedarcher。Intrackinganimalsormentheyshowmostwonderfulsagacity;andIheardofseveraloftheirremarkswhichmanifestedconsiderableacuteness。Theywillnot,however,cultivatetheground,orbuildhousesandremainstationary,oreventakethetroubleoftendingaflockofsheepwhengiventothem。OnthewholetheyappeartometostandsomefewdegreeshigherinthescaleofcivilizationthantheFuegians。
Itisverycuriousthustoseeinthemidstofacivilizedpeople,asetofharmlesssavageswanderingaboutwithoutknowingwheretheyshallsleepatnight,andgainingtheirlivelihoodbyhuntinginthewoods。Asthewhitemanhastravelledonwards,hehasspreadoverthecountrybelongingtoseveraltribes。These,althoughthusenclosedbyonecommonpeople,keepuptheirancientdistinctions,andsometimesgotowarwitheachother。
Inanengagementwhichtookplacelately,thetwopartiesmostsingularlychosethecentreofthevillageofBathurstforthefieldofbattle。Thiswasofservicetothedefeatedside,fortherunawaywarriorstookrefugeinthebarracks。
Thenumberofaboriginesisrapidlydecreasing。Inmywholeride,withtheexceptionofsomeboysbroughtupbyEnglishmen,Isawonlyoneotherparty。Thisdecrease,nodoubt,mustbepartlyowingtotheintroductionofspirits,toEuropeandiseaseseventhemilderonesofwhich,suchasthemeasles,[1]proveverydestructive,andtothegradualextinctionofthewildanimals。Itissaidthatnumbersoftheirchildreninvariablyperishinveryearlyinfancyfromtheeffectsoftheirwanderinglife;andasthedifficultyofprocuringfoodincreases,somusttheirwanderinghabitsincrease;andhencethepopulation,withoutanyapparentdeathsfromfamine,isrepressedinamannerextremelysuddencomparedtowhathappensincivilizedcountries,wherethefather,thoughinaddingtohislabourhemayinjurehimself,doesnotdestroyhisoffspring。
Besidestheseveralevidentcausesofdestruction,thereappearstobesomemoremysteriousagencygenerallyatwork。WherevertheEuropeanhastrod,deathseemstopursuetheaboriginal。WemaylooktothewideextentoftheAmericas,Polynesia,theCapeofGoodHope,andAustralia,andwefindthesameresult。Norisitthewhitemanalonethatthusactsthedestroyer;thePolynesianofMalayextractionhasinpartsoftheEastIndianarchipelago,thusdrivenbeforehimthedark-colourednative。Thevarietiesofmanseemtoactoneachotherinthesamewayasdifferentspeciesofanimals——thestrongeralwaysextirpatingtheweaker。ItwasmelancholyatNewZealandtohearthefineenergeticnativessayingthattheyknewthelandwasdoomedtopassfromtheirchildren。EveryonehasheardoftheinexplicablereductionofthepopulationinthebeautifulandhealthyislandofTahitisincethedateofCaptainCook’svoyages:
althoughinthatcasewemighthaveexpectedthatitwouldhavebeenincreased;
forinfanticide,whichformerlyprevailedtosoextraordinaryadegree,hasceased;profligacyhasgreatlydiminished,andthemurderouswarsbecomelessfrequent。
TheRev。J。Williams,inhisinterestingwork,[2]says,thatthefirstintercoursebetweennativesandEuropeans,“isinvariablyattendedwiththeintroductionoffever,dysentery,orsomeotherdisease,whichcarriesoffnumbersofthepeople。”Againheaffirms,“Itiscertainlyafact,whichcannotbecontroverted,thatmostofthediseaseswhichhaveragedintheislandsduringmyresidencethere,havebeenintroducedbyships;[3]andwhatrendersthisfactremarkableis,thattheremightbenoappearanceofdiseaseamongthecrewoftheshipwhichconveyedthisdestructiveimportation。”Thisstatementisnotquitesoextraordinaryasitatfirstappears;forseveralcasesareonrecordofthemostmalignantfevershavingbrokenout,althoughthepartiesthemselves,whowerethecause,werenotaffected。IntheearlypartofthereignofGeorgeIII。,aprisonerwhohadbeenconfinedinadungeon,wastakeninacoachwithfourconstablesbeforeamagistrate;andalthoughthemanhimselfwasnotill,thefourconstablesdiedfromashortputridfever;
butthecontagionextendedtonoothers。Fromthesefactsitwouldalmostappearasiftheeffluviumofonesetofmenshutupforsometimetogetherwaspoisonouswheninhaledbyothers;andpossiblymoreso,ifthemenbeofdifferentraces。Mysteriousasthiscircumstanceappearstobe,itisnotmoresurprisingthanthatthebodyofone’sfellow-creature,directlyafterdeath,andbeforeputrefactionhascommenced,shouldoftenbeofsodeleteriousaquality,thatthemerepuncturefromaninstrumentusedinitsdissection,shouldprovefatal。
17th——EarlyinthemorningwepassedtheNepeaninaferry-boat。
Theriver,althoughatthisspotbothbroadanddeep,hadaverysmallbodyofrunningwater。Havingcrossedalowpieceoflandontheoppositeside,wereachedtheslopeoftheBlueMountains。Theascentisnotsteep,theroadhavingbeencutwithmuchcareonthesideofasandstonecliff。
Onthesummitanalmostlevelplainextends,which,risingimperceptiblytothewestward,atlastattainsaheightofmorethan3000feet。FromsograndatitleasBlueMountains,andfromtheirabsolutealtitude,I
expectedtohaveseenaboldchainofmountainscrossingthecountry;butinsteadofthis,aslopingplainpresentsmerelyaninconsiderablefronttothelowlandnearthecoast。Fromthisfirstslope,theviewoftheextensivewoodlandtotheeastwasstriking,andthesurroundingtreesgrewboldandlofty。Butwhenonceonthesandstoneplatform,thescenerybecomesexceedinglymonotonous;eachsideoftheroadisborderedbyscrubbytreesofthenever-failingEucalyptusfamily;andwiththeexceptionoftwoorthreesmallinns,therearenohousesorcultivatedland:theroad,moreover,issolitary;themostfrequentobjectbeingabullock-waggon,piledupwithbalesofwool。
Inthemiddleofthedaywebaitedourhorsesatalittleinn,calledtheWeatherboard。Thecountryhereiselevated2800feetabovethesea。
Aboutamileandahalffromthisplacethereisaviewexceedinglywellworthvisiting。Followingdownalittlevalleyanditstinyrillofwater,animmensegulfunexpectedlyopensthroughthetreeswhichborderthepathway,atthedepthofperhaps1500feet。Walkingonafewyards,onestandsonthebrinkofavastprecipice,andbelowoneseesagrandbayorgulf,forIknownotwhatothernametogiveit,thicklycoveredwithforest。
Thepointofviewissituatedasifattheheadofabay,thelineofcliffdivergingoneachside,andshowingheadlandbehindheadland,asonaboldsea-coast。Thesecliffsarecomposedofhorizontalstrataofwhitishsandstone;
andaresoabsolutelyvertical,thatinmanyplacesapersonstandingontheedgeandthrowingdownastone,canseeitstrikethetreesintheabyssbelow。Sounbrokenisthelineofcliff,thatinordertoreachthefootofthewaterfall,formedbythislittlestream,itissaidtobenecessarytogosixteenmilesround。Aboutfivemilesdistantinfront,anotherlineofcliffextends,whichthusappearscompletelytoencirclethevalley;
andhencethenameofbayisjustified,asappliedtothisgrandamphitheatricaldepression。Ifweimagineawindingharbour,withitsdeepwatersurroundedbyboldcliff-likeshores,tobelaiddry,andaforesttospringuponitssandybottom,weshouldthenhavetheappearanceandstructurehereexhibited。Thiskindofviewwastomequitenovel,andextremelymagnificent。
IntheeveningwereachedtheBlackheath。Thesandstoneplateauhashereattainedtheheightof3400feet;andiscovered,asbefore,withthesamescrubbywoods。Fromtheroad,therewereoccasionalglimpsesintoaprofoundvalley,ofthesamecharacterastheonedescribed;butfromthesteepnessanddepthofitssides,thebottomwasscarcelyevertobeseen。TheBlackheathisaverycomfortableinn,keptbyanoldsoldier;
anditremindedmeofthesmallinnsinNorthWales。
18th——Veryearlyinthemorning,IwalkedaboutthreemilestoseeGovett’sLeap;aviewofasimilarcharacterwiththatneartheWeatherboard,butperhapsevenmorestupendous。Soearlyinthedaythegulfwasfilledwithathinbluehaze,which,althoughdestroyingthegeneraleffectoftheviewaddedtotheapparentdepthatwhichtheforestwasstretchedoutbeneathourfeet。Thesevalleys,whichsolongpresentedaninsuperablebarriertotheattemptsofthemostenterprisingofthecoloniststoreachtheinterior,aremostremarkable。Greatarm-likebays,expandingattheirupperends,oftenbranchfromthemainvalleysandpenetratethesandstoneplatform;ontheotherhand,theplatformoftensendspromontoriesintothevalleys,andevenleavesinthemgreat,almostinsulated,masses。Todescendintosomeofthesevalleys,itisnecessarytogoroundtwentymiles;andintoothers,thesurveyorshaveonlylatelypenetrated,andthecolonistshavenotyetbeenabletodriveintheircattle。Butthemostremarkablefeatureintheirstructureis,thatalthoughseveralmileswideattheirheads,theygenerallycontracttowardstheirmouthstosuchadegreeastobecomeimpassable。TheSurveyor-General,SirT。Mitchell,[4]endeavouredinvain,firstwalkingandthenbycrawlingbetweenthegreatfallenfragmentsofsandstone,toascendthroughthegorgebywhichtheriverGrosejoinstheNepean,yetthevalleyoftheGroseinitsupperpart,asIsaw,formsamagnificentlevelbasinsomemilesinwidth,andisonallsidessurroundedbycliffs,thesummitsofwhicharebelievedtobenowherelessthan3000feetabovethelevelofthesea。WhencattlearedrivenintothevalleyoftheWolganbyapathwhichIdescended,partlynaturalandpartlymadebytheowneroftheland,theycannotescape;forthisvalleyisineveryotherpartsurroundedbyperpendicularcliffs,andeightmileslowerdown,itcontractsfromanaveragewidthofhalfamile,toamerechasm,impassabletomanorbeast。SirT。MitchellstatesthatthegreatvalleyoftheCoxriverwithallitsbranches,contracts,whereituniteswiththeNepean,intoagorge2200yardsinwidth,andabout1000feetindepth。Othersimilarcasesmighthavebeenadded。
Thefirstimpression,onseeingthecorrespondenceofthehorizontalstrataoneachsideofthesevalleysandgreatamphitheatricaldepressions,isthattheyhavebeenhollowedout,likeothervalleys,bytheactionofwater;butwhenonereflectsontheenormousamountofstone,whichonthisviewmusthavebeenremovedthroughmeregorgesorchasms,oneisledtoaskwhetherthesespacesmaynothavesubsided。Butconsideringtheformoftheirregularlybranchingvalleys,andofthenarrowpromontoriesprojectingintothemfromtheplatforms,wearecompelledtoabandonthisnotion。Toattributethesehollowstothepresentalluvialactionwouldbepreposterous;nordoesthedrainagefromthesummit-levelalwaysfall,asIremarkedneartheWeatherboard,intotheheadofthesevalleys,butintoonesideoftheirbay-likerecesses。Someoftheinhabitantsremarkedtomethattheyneverviewedoneofthosebay-likerecesses,withtheheadlandsrecedingonbothhands,withoutbeingstruckwiththeirresemblancetoaboldsea-coast。Thisiscertainlythecase;moreover,onthepresentcoastofNewSouthWales,thenumerous,fine,widely-branchingharbours,whicharegenerallyconnectedwiththeseabyanarrowmouthwornthroughthesandstonecoast-cliffs,varyingfromonemileinwidthtoaquarterofamile,presentalikeness,thoughonaminiaturescale,tothegreatvalleysoftheinterior。Butthenimmediatelyoccursthestartlingdifficulty,whyhastheseawornoutthesegreat,thoughcircumscribeddepressionsonawideplatform,andleftmeregorgesattheopenings,throughwhichthewholevastamountoftrituratedmattermusthavebeencarriedaway?