were，hasalwaysappearedtomemostmysterious：fromwhatYorksaid，whenwefoundtheplaceliketheformofahare，whereasinglemanhadsleptthenightbefore，Ishouldhavethoughtthattheywerethieveswhohadbeendrivenfromtheirtribes；butotherobscurespeechesmademedoubtthis；Ihavesometimesimaginedthatthemostprobableexplanationwasthattheywereinsane。
　　Thedifferenttribeshavenogovernmentorchief；yeteachissurroundedbyotherhostiletribes，speakingdifferentdialects，andseparatedfromeachotheronlybyadesertedborderorneutralterritory：thecauseoftheirwarfareappearstobethemeansofsubsistence。Theircountryisabrokenmassofwildrocks，loftyhills，anduselessforests：andtheseareviewedthroughmistsandendlessstorms。Thehabitablelandisreducedtothestonesonthebeach；insearchoffoodtheyarecompelledunceasinglytowanderfromspottospot，andsosteepisthecoast，thattheycanonlymoveaboutintheirwretchedcanoes。Theycannotknowthefeelingofhavingahome，andstilllessthatofdomesticaffection；forthehusbandistothewifeabrutalmastertoalaboriousslave。Wasamorehorriddeedeverperpetrated，thanthatwitnessedonthewestcoastbyByron，whosawawretchedmotherpickupherbleedingdyinginfant-boy，whomherhusbandhadmercilesslydashedonthestonesfordroppingabasketofsea-eggs！
　　Howlittlecanthehigherpowersofthemindbebroughtintoplay：whatisthereforimaginationtopicture，forreasontocompare，orjudgmenttodecideupon？toknockalimpetfromtherockdoesnotrequireevencunning，thatlowestpowerofthemind。Theirskillinsomerespectsmaybecomparedtotheinstinctofanimals；foritisnotimprovedbyexperience：thecanoe，theirmostingeniouswork，poorasitis，hasremainedthesame，asweknowfromDrake，forthelasttwohundredandfiftyyears。
　　Whilstbeholdingthesesavages，oneasks，whencehavetheycome？Whatcouldhavetempted，orwhatchangecompelledatribeofmen，toleavethefineregionsofthenorth，totraveldowntheCordilleraorbackboneofAmerica，toinventandbuildcanoes，whicharenotusedbythetribesofChile，Peru，andBrazil，andthentoenterononeofthemostinhospitablecountrieswithinthelimitsoftheglobe？Althoughsuchreflectionsmustatfirstseizeonthemind，yetwemayfeelsurethattheyarepartlyerroneous。
　　ThereisnoreasontobelievethattheFuegiansdecreaseinnumber；thereforewemustsupposethattheyenjoyasufficientshareofhappiness，ofwhateverkinditmaybe，torenderlifeworthhaving。Naturebymakinghabitomnipotent，anditseffectshereditary，hasfittedtheFuegiantotheclimateandtheproductionsofhismiserablecountry。
　　AfterhavingbeendetainedsixdaysinWigwamCovebyverybadweather，weputtoseaonthe30thofDecember。CaptainFitzRoywishedtogetwestwardtolandYorkandFuegiaintheirowncountry。Whenatseawehadaconstantsuccessionofgales，andthecurrentwasagainstus：wedriftedto57degs。
　　23’south。Onthe11thofJanuary，1833，bycarryingapressofsail，wefetchedwithinafewmilesofthegreatruggedmountainofYorkMinstersocalledbyCaptainCook，andtheoriginofthenameoftheelderFuegian，whenaviolentsquallcompelledustoshortensailandstandouttosea。
　　Thesurfwasbreakingfearfullyonthecoast，andthespraywascarriedoveracliffestimatedto200feetinheight。Onthe12ththegalewasveryheavy，andwedidnotknowexactlywherewewere：itwasamostunpleasantsoundtohearconstantlyrepeated，“keepagoodlook-outtoleeward。”Onthe13ththestormragedwithitsfullfury：ourhorizonwasnarrowlylimitedbythesheetsofspraybornebythewind。Thesealookedominous，likeadrearywavingplainwithpatchesofdriftedsnow：whilsttheshiplabouredheavily，thealbatrossglidedwithitsexpandedwingsrightupthewind。
　　Atnoonagreatseabrokeoverus，andfilledoneofthewhaleboats，whichwasobligedtobeinstantlycutaway。ThepoorBeagletrembledattheshock，andforafewminuteswouldnotobeyherhelm；butsoon，likeagoodshipthatshewas，sherightedandcameuptothewindagain。Hadanotherseafollowedthefirst，ourfatewouldhavebeendecidedsoon，andforever。
　　Wehadnowbeentwenty-fourdaystryinginvaintogetwestward；themenwerewornoutwithfatigue，andtheyhadnothadformanynightsordaysadrythingtoputon。CaptainFitzRoygaveuptheattempttogetwestwardbytheoutsidecoast。IntheeveningweraninbehindFalseCapeHorn，anddroppedouranchorinforty-sevenfathoms，fireflashingfromthewindlassasthechainrushedroundit。Howdelightfulwasthatstillnight，afterhavingbeensolonginvolvedinthedinofthewarringelements！
　　January15th，1833——TheBeagleanchoredinGoereeRoads。CaptainFitzRoyhavingresolvedtosettletheFuegians，accordingtotheirwishes，inPonsonbySound，fourboatswereequippedtocarrythemtherethroughtheBeagleChannel。Thischannel，whichwasdiscoveredbyCaptainFitzRoyduringthelastvoyage，isamostremarkablefeatureinthegeographyofthis，orindeedofanyothercountry：itmaybecomparedtothevalleyofLochnessinScotland，withitschainoflakesandfriths。Itisaboutonehundredandtwentymileslong，withanaveragebreadth，notsubjecttoanyverygreatvariation，ofabouttwomiles；andisthroughoutthegreaterpartsoperfectlystraight，thattheview，boundedoneachsidebyalineofmountains，graduallybecomesindistinctinthelongdistance。
　　ItcrossesthesouthernpartofTierradelFuegoinaneastandwestline，andinthemiddleisjoinedatrightanglesonthesouthsidebyanirregularchannel，whichhasbeencalledPonsonbySound。ThisistheresidenceofJemmyButton’stribeandfamily。
　　19th——Threewhale-boatsandtheyawl，withapartyoftwenty-eight，startedunderthecommandofCaptainFitzRoy。Intheafternoonweenteredtheeasternmouthofthechannel，andshortlyafterwardsfoundasnuglittlecoveconcealedbysomesurroundingislets。Herewepitchedourtentsandlightedourfires。Nothingcouldlookmorecomfortablethanthisscene。
　　Theglassywaterofthelittleharbour，withthebranchesofthetreeshangingovertherockybeach，theboatsatanchor，thetentssupportedbythecrossedoars，andthesmokecurlingupthewoodedvalley，formedapictureofquietretirement。Thenextday20thwesmoothlyglidedonwardsinourlittlefleet，andcametoamoreinhabiteddistrict。Fewifanyofthesenativescouldeverhaveseenawhiteman；certainlynothingcouldexceedtheirastonishmentattheapparitionofthefourboats。FireswerelightedoneverypointhencethenameofTierradelFuego，orthelandoffire，bothtoattractourattentionandtospreadfarandwidethenews。Someofthemenranformilesalongtheshore。Ishallneverforgethowwildandsavageonegroupappeared：suddenlyfourorfivemencametotheedgeofanoverhangingcliff；theywereabsolutelynaked，andtheirlonghairstreamedabouttheirfaces；theyheldruggedstaffsintheirhands，and，springingfromtheground，theywavedtheirarmsroundtheirheads，andsentforththemosthideousyells。
　　Atdinner-timewelandedamongapartyofFuegians。Atfirsttheywerenotinclinedtobefriendly；foruntiltheCaptainpulledinaheadoftheotherboats，theykepttheirslingsintheirhands。Wesoon，however，delightedthembytriflingpresents，suchastyingredtaperoundtheirheads。Theylikedourbiscuit：butoneofthesavagestouchedwithhisfingersomeofthemeatpreservedintincaseswhichIwaseating，andfeelingitsoftandcold，showedasmuchdisgustatit，asIshouldhavedoneatputridblubber。Jemmywasthoroughlyashamedofhiscountrymen，anddeclaredhisowntribewerequitedifferent，inwhichhewaswofullymistaken。Itwasaseasytopleaseasitwasdifficulttosatisfythesesavages。Youngandold，menandchildren，neverceasedrepeatingtheword“yammerschooner。”
　　whichmeans“giveme。”Afterpointingtoalmosteveryobject，oneaftertheother，eventothebuttonsonourcoats，andsayingtheirfavouritewordinasmanyintonationsaspossible，theywouldthenuseitinaneutersense，andvacantlyrepeat“yammerschooner。”Afteryammerschooneringforanyarticleveryeagerly，theywouldbyasimpleartificepointtotheiryoungwomenorlittlechildren，asmuchastosay，“Ifyouwillnotgiveitme，surelyyouwilltosuchasthese。”
　　Atnightweendeavouredinvaintofindanuninhabitedcove；andatlastwereobligedtobivouacnotfarfromapartyofnatives。Theywereveryinoffensiveaslongastheywerefewinnumbers，butinthemorning21stbeingjoinedbyotherstheyshowedsymptomsofhostility，andwethoughtthatweshouldhavecometoaskirmish。AnEuropeanlaboursundergreatdisadvantageswhentreatingwithsavageslikethese，whohavenottheleastideaofthepoweroffire-arms。Intheveryactoflevellinghismusketheappearstothesavagefarinferiortoamanarmedwithabowandarrow，aspear，orevenasling。Norisiteasytoteachthemoursuperiorityexceptbystrikingafatalblow。Likewildbeasts，theydonotappeartocomparenumbers；foreachindividual，ifattacked，insteadofretiring，willendeavourtodashyourbrainsoutwithastone，ascertainlyasatigerundersimilarcircumstanceswouldtearyou。CaptainFitzRoyononeoccasionbeingveryanxious，fromgoodreasons，tofrightenawayasmallparty，firstflourishedacutlassnearthem，atwhichtheyonlylaughed；hethentwicefiredhispistolclosetoanative。Themanbothtimeslookedastounded，andcarefullybutquicklyrubbedhishead；hethenstaredawhile，andgabbledtohiscompanions，butheneverseemedtothinkofrunningaway。Wecanhardlyputourselvesinthepositionofthesesavages，andunderstandtheiractions。InthecaseofthisFuegian，thepossibilityofsuchasoundasthereportofagunclosetohisearcouldneverhaveenteredhismind。Heperhapsliterallydidnotforasecondknowwhetheritwasasoundorablow，andthereforeverynaturallyrubbedhishead。
　　Inasimilarmanner，whenasavageseesamarkstruckbyabullet，itmaybesometimebeforeheisableatalltounderstandhowitiseffected；
　　forthefactofabodybeinginvisiblefromitsvelocitywouldperhapsbetohimanideatotallyinconceivable。Moreover，theextremeforceofabullet，thatpenetratesahardsubstancewithouttearingit，mayconvincethesavagethatithasnoforceatall。CertainlyIbelievethatmanysavagesofthelowestgrade，suchastheseofTierradelFuego，haveseenobjectsstruck，andevensmallanimalskilledbythemusket，withoutbeingintheleastawarehowdeadlyaninstrumentitis。
　　22nd——Afterhavingpassedanunmolestednight，inwhatwouldappeartobeneutralterritorybetweenJemmy’stribeandthepeoplewhomwesawyesterday，wesailedpleasantlyalong。Idonotknowanythingwhichshowsmoreclearlythehostilestateofthedifferenttribes，thanthesewideborderorneutraltracts。AlthoughJemmyButtonwellknewtheforceofourparty，hewas，atfirst，unwillingtolandamidstthehostiletribenearesttohisown。HeoftentoldushowthesavageOensmen“whentheleafred。”crossedthemountainsfromtheeasterncoastofTierradelFuego，andmadeinroadsonthenativesofthispartofthecountry。Itwasmostcurioustowatchhimwhenthustalking，andseehiseyesgleamingandhiswholefaceassumeanewandwildexpression。AsweproceededalongtheBeagleChannel，thesceneryassumedapeculiarandverymagnificentcharacter；
　　buttheeffectwasmuchlessenedfromthelownessofthepointofviewinaboat，andfromlookingalongthevalley，andthuslosingallthebeautyofasuccessionofridges。Themountainswerehereaboutthreethousandfeethigh，andterminatedinsharpandjaggedpoints。Theyroseinoneunbrokensweepfromthewater’sedge，andwerecoveredtotheheightoffourteenorfifteenhundredfeetbythedusky-colouredforest。Itwasmostcurioustoobserve，asfarastheeyecouldrange，howlevelandtrulyhorizontalthelineonthemountainsidewas，atwhichtreesceasedtogrow：itpreciselyresembledthehigh-watermarkofdrift-weedonasea-beach。
　　AtnightwesleptclosetothejunctionofPonsonbySoundwiththeBeagleChannel。AsmallfamilyofFuegians，whowerelivinginthecove，werequietandinoffensive，andsoonjoinedourpartyroundablazingfire。
　　Wewerewellclothed，andthoughsittingclosetothefirewerefarfromtoowarm；yetthesenakedsavages，thoughfurtheroff，wereobserved，toourgreatsurprise，tobestreamingwithperspirationatundergoingsucharoasting。Theyseemed，however，verywellpleased，andalljoinedinthechorusoftheseamen’ssongs：butthemannerinwhichtheywereinvariablyalittlebehindhandwasquiteludicrous。
　　Duringthenightthenewshadspread，andearlyinthemorning23rd
　　afreshpartyarrived，belongingtotheTekenika，orJemmy’stribe。Severalofthemhadrunsofastthattheirnoseswerebleeding，andtheirmouthsfrothedfromtherapiditywithwhichtheytalked；andwiththeirnakedbodiesallbedaubedwithblack，white，[1]andred，theylookedlikesomanydemoniacswhohadbeenfighting。Wethenproceededaccompaniedbytwelvecanoes，eachholdingfourorfivepeopledownPonsonbySoundtothespotwherepoorJemmyexpectedtofindhismotherandrelatives。
　　Hehadalreadyheardthathisfatherwasdead；butashehadhada“dreaminhishead“tothateffect，hedidnotseemtocaremuchaboutit，andrepeatedlycomfortedhimselfwiththeverynaturalreflection——“Menohelpit。”Hewasnotabletolearnanyparticularsregardinghisfather’sdeath，ashisrelationswouldnotspeakaboutit。
　　Jemmywasnowinadistrictwellknowntohim，andguidedtheboatstoaquietprettycovenamedWoollya，surroundedbyislets，everyoneofwhichandeverypointhaditspropernativename。WefoundhereafamilyofJemmy’stribe，butnothisrelations：wemadefriendswiththem；andintheeveningtheysentacanoetoinformJemmy’smotherandbrothers。