Thecattle,insteadofhavingdegeneratedlikethehorse,seem,asbeforeremarked,tohaveincreasedinsize;andtheyaremuchmorenumerousthanthehorsesCapt。SulivaninformsmethattheyvarymuchlessinthegeneralformoftheirbodiesandintheshapeoftheirhornsthanEnglishcattle。
Incolourtheydiffermuch;anditisaremarkablecircumstance,thatindifferentpartsofthisonesmallisland,differentcolourspredominate。
RoundMountUsborne,ataheightoffrom1000to1500feetabovethesea,abouthalfofsomeoftheherdsaremouseorlead-coloured,atintwhichisnotcommoninotherpartsoftheisland。NearPortPleasantdarkbrownprevails,whereassouthofChoiseulSoundwhichalmostdividestheislandintotwoparts,whitebeastswithblackheadsandfeetarethemostcommon:
inallpartsblack,andsomespottedanimalsmaybeobserved。Capt。Sulivanremarks,thatthedifferenceintheprevailingcolourswassoobvious,thatinlookingfortheherdsnearPortPleasant,theyappearedfromalongdistancelikeblackspots,whilstsouthofChoiseulSoundtheyappearedlikewhitespotsonthehill-sides。Capt。Sulivanthinksthattheherdsdonotmingle;anditisasingularfact,thatthemouse-colouredcattle,thoughlivingonthehighland,calveaboutamonthearlierintheseasonthantheothercolouredbeastsonthelowerland。Itisinterestingthustofindtheoncedomesticatedcattlebreakingintothreecolours,ofwhichsomeonecolourwouldinallprobabilityultimatelyprevailovertheothers,iftheherdswereleftundisturbedforthenextseveralcenturies。
Therabbitisanotheranimalwhichhasbeenintroduced,andhassucceededverywell;sothattheyaboundoverlargepartsoftheisland。Yet,likethehorses,theyareconfinedwithincertainlimits;fortheyhavenotcrossedthecentralchainofhills,norwouldtheyhaveextendedevensofarasitsbase,if,astheGauchosinformedme,smallcolonieshadnotbeencarriedthere。Ishouldnothavesupposedthattheseanimals,nativesofnorthernAfrica,couldhaveexistedinaclimatesohumidasthis,andwhichenjoyssolittlesunshinethatevenwheatripensonlyoccasionally。
ItisassertedthatinSweden,whichanyonewouldhavethoughtamorefavourableclimate,therabbitcannotliveoutofdoors。Thefirstfewpairs,moreover,hadheretocontendagainstpre-existingenemies,inthefoxandsomelargehawks。TheFrenchnaturalistshaveconsideredtheblackvarietyadistinctspecies,andcalleditLepusMagellanicus。[5]TheyimaginedthatMagellan,whentalkingofananimalunderthenameof“conejos“intheStraitofMagellan,referredtothisspecies;buthewasalludingtoasmallcavy,whichtothisdayisthuscalledbytheSpaniards。
TheGauchoslaughedattheideaoftheblackkindbeingdifferentfromthegrey,andtheysaidthatatalleventsithadnotextendeditsrangeanyfurtherthanthegreykind;thatthetwowereneverfoundseparate;
andthattheyreadilybredtogether,andproducedpiebaldoffspring。OfthelatterInowpossessaspecimen,anditismarkedabouttheheaddifferentlyfromtheFrenchspecificdescription。Thiscircumstanceshowshowcautiousnaturalistsshouldbeinmakingspecies;forevenCuvier,onlookingattheskullofoneoftheserabbits,thoughtitwasprobablydistinct!
Theonlyquadrupednativetotheisland[6];isalargewolf-likefoxCanisantarcticus,whichiscommontobothEastandWestFalkland。Ihavenodoubtitisapeculiarspecies,andconfinedtothisarchipelago;becausemanysealers,Gauchos,andIndians,whohavevisitedtheseislands,allmaintainthatnosuchanimalisfoundinanypartofSouthAmerica。
Molina,fromasimilarityinhabits,thoughtthatthiswasthesamewithhis“culpeu;“[7]butIhaveseenboth,andtheyarequitedistinct。ThesewolvesarewellknownfromByron’saccountoftheirtamenessandcuriosity,whichthesailors,whoranintothewatertoavoidthem,mistookforfierceness。Tothisdaytheirmannersremainthesame。Theyhavebeenobservedtoenteratent,andactuallypullsomemeatfrombeneaththeheadofasleepingseaman。TheGauchosalsohavefrequentlyintheeveningkilledthem,byholdingoutapieceofmeatinonehand,andintheotheraknifereadytostickthem。AsfarasIamaware,thereisnootherinstanceinanypartoftheworld,ofsosmallamassofbrokenland,distantfromacontinent,possessingsolargeanaboriginalquadrupedpeculiartoitself。Theirnumbershaverapidlydecreased;
theyarealreadybanishedfromthathalfoftheislandwhichliestotheeastwardoftheneckoflandbetweenSt。SalvadorBayandBerkeleySound。
Withinaveryfewyearsaftertheseislandsshallhavebecomeregularlysettled,inallprobabilitythisfoxwillbeclassedwiththedodo,asananimalwhichhasperishedfromthefaceoftheearth。
Atnight17thwesleptontheneckoflandattheheadofChoiseulSound,whichformsthesouth-westpeninsula。Thevalleywasprettywellshelteredfromthecoldwind;buttherewasverylittlebrushwoodforfuel。
TheGauchos,however,soonfoundwhat,tomygreatsurprise,madenearlyashotafireascoals;thiswastheskeletonofabullocklatelykilled,fromwhichthefleshhadbeenpickedbythecarrion-hawks。Theytoldmethatinwintertheyoftenkilledabeast,cleanedthefleshfromtheboneswiththeirknives,andthenwiththesesamebonesroastedthemeatfortheirsuppers。
18th——Itrainedduringnearlythewholeday。Atnightwemanaged,however,withoursaddle-clothstokeepourselvesprettywelldryandwarm;
butthegroundonwhichwesleptwasoneachoccasionnearlyinthestateofabog,andtherewasnotadryspottositdownonafterourday’sride。
Ihaveinanotherpartstatedhowsingularitisthatthereshouldbeabsolutelynotreesontheseislands,althoughTierradelFuegoiscoveredbyonelargeforest。ThelargestbushintheislandbelongingtothefamilyofCompositaeisscarcelysotallasourgorse。Thebestfuelisaffordedbyagreenlittlebushaboutthesizeofcommonheath,whichhastheusefulpropertyofburningwhilefreshandgreen。ItwasverysurprisingtoseetheGauchos,inthemidstofrainandeverythingsoakingwet,withnothingmorethanatinder-boxandapieceofrag,immediatelymakeafire。Theysoughtbeneaththetuftsofgrassandbushesforafewdrytwigs,andthesetheyrubbedintofibres;thensurroundingthemwithcoarsertwigs,somethinglikeabird’snest,theyputtheragwithitssparkoffireinthemiddleandcovereditup。Thenestbeingthenhelduptothewind,bydegreesitsmokedmoreandmore,andatlastburstoutinflames。Idonotthinkanyothermethodwouldhavehadachanceofsucceedingwithsuchdampmaterials。
19th——Eachmorning,fromnothavingriddenforsometimepreviously,Iwasverystiff。IwassurprisedtoheartheGauchos,whohavefrominfancyalmostlivedonhorseback,saythat,undersimilarcircumstances,theyalwayssuffer。St。Jagotoldme,thathavingbeenconfinedforthreemonthsbyillness,hewentouthuntingwildcattle,andinconsequence,forthenexttwodays,histhighsweresostiffthathewasobligedtolieinbed。
ThisshowsthattheGauchos,althoughtheydonotappeartodoso,yetreallymustexertmuchmusculareffortinriding。Thehuntingwildcattle,inacountrysodifficulttopassasthisisonaccountoftheswampyground,mustbeveryhardwork。TheGauchossaytheyoftenpassatfullspeedovergroundwhichwouldbeimpassableataslowerpace;inthesamemannerasamanisabletoskateoverthinice。Whenhunting,thepartyendeavourstogetascloseaspossibletotheherdwith。outbeingdiscovered。Eachmancarriesfourorfivepairofthebolas;thesehethrowsoneaftertheotheratasmanycattle,which,whenonceentangled,areleftforsomedaystilltheybecomealittleexhaustedbyhungerandstruggling。Theyarethenletfreeanddriventowardsasmallherdoftameanimals,whichhavebeenbroughttothespotonpurpose。Fromtheirprevioustreatment,beingtoomuchterrifiedtoleavetheherd,theyareeasilydriven,iftheirstrengthlastout,tothesettlement。
Theweathercontinuedsoverybadthatwedeterminedtomakeapush,andtrytoreachthevesselbeforenight。Fromthequantityofrainwhichhadfallen,thesurfaceofthewholecountrywasswampy。Isupposemyhorsefellatleastadozentimes,andsometimesthewholesixhorseswereflounderinginthemudtogether。Allthelittlestreamsareborderedbysoftpeat,whichmakesitverydifficultforthehorsestoleapthemwithoutfalling。
Tocompleteourdiscomfortswewereobligedtocrosstheheadofacreekofthesea,inwhichthewaterwasashighasourhorses’backs;andthelittlewaves,owingtotheviolenceofthewind,brokeoverus,andmadeusverywetandcold。Eventheiron-framedGauchosprofessedthemselvesgladwhentheyreachedthesettlement,afterourlittleexcursion。
Thegeologicalstructureoftheseislandsisinmostrespectssimple。
Thelowercountryconsistsofclay-slateandsandstone,containingfossils,verycloselyrelatedto,butnotidenticalwith,thosefoundintheSilurianformationsofEurope;thehillsareformedofwhitegranularquartzrock。
Thestrataofthelatterarefrequentlyarchedwithperfectsymmetry,andtheappearanceofsomeofthemassesisinconsequencemostsingular。Pernety[8]hasdevotedseveralpagestothedescriptionofaHillofRuins,thesuccessivestrataofwhichhehasjustlycomparedtotheseatsofanamphitheatre。Thequartzrockmusthavebeenquitepastywhenitunderwentsuchremarkableflexureswithoutbeingshatteredintofragments。Asthequartzinsensiblypassesintothesandstone,itseemsprobablethattheformerowesitsorigintothesandstonehavingbeenheatedtosuchadegreethatitbecameviscid,anduponcoolingcrystallized。
Whileinthesoftstateitmusthavebeenpushedupthroughtheoverlyingbeds。
Inmanypartsoftheislandthebottomsofthevalleysarecoveredinanextraordinarymannerbymyriadsofgreatlooseangularfragmentsofthequartzrock,forming“streamsofstones。”ThesehavebeenmentionedwithsurprisebyeveryvoyagersincethetimeofPernety。Theblocksarenotwaterworn,theiranglesbeingonlyalittleblunted;theyvaryinsizefromoneortwofeetindiametertoten,orevenmorethantwentytimesasmuch。Theyarenotthrowntogetherintoirregularpiles,butarespreadoutintolevelsheetsorgreatstreams。Itisnotpossibletoascertaintheirthickness,butthewaterofsmallstreamletscanbeheardtricklingthroughthestonesmanyfeetbelowthesurface。Theactualdepthisprobablygreat,becausethecrevicesbetweenthelowerfragmentsmustlongagohavebeenfilledupwithsand。Thewidthofthesesheetsofstonesvariesfromafewhundredfeettoamile;butthepeatysoildailyencroachesontheborders,andevenformsisletswhereverafewfragmentshappentolieclosetogether。InavalleysouthofBerkeleySound,whichsomeofourpartycalledthe“greatvalleyoffragments。”itwasnecessarytocrossanuninterruptedbandhalfamilewide,byjumpingfromonepointedstonetoanother。Solargewerethefragments,thatbeingovertakenbyashowerofrain,Ireadilyfoundshelterbeneathoneofthem。
Theirlittleinclinationisthemostremarkablecircumstanceinthese“streamsofstones。”Onthehill-sidesIhaveseenthemslopingatanangleoftendegreeswiththehorizon;butinsomeofthelevel,broad-bottomedvalleys,theinclinationisonlyjustsufficienttobeclearlyperceived。
Onsoruggedasurfacetherewasnomeansofmeasuringtheangle,buttogiveacommonillustration,ImaysaythattheslopewouldnothavecheckedthespeedofanEnglishmail-coach。Insomeplaces,acontinuousstreamofthesefragmentsfollowedupthecourseofavalley,andevenextendedtotheverycrestofthehill。Onthesecrestshugemasses,exceedingindimensionsanysmallbuilding,seemedtostandarrestedintheirheadlongcourse:there,also,thecurvedstrataofthearchwayslaypiledoneachother,liketheruinsofsomevastandancientcathedral。Inendeavouringtodescribethesescenesofviolenceoneistemptedtopassfromonesimiletoanother。Wemayimaginethatstreamsofwhitelavahadflowedfrommanypartsofthemountainsintothelowercountry,andthatwhensolidifiedtheyhadbeenrentbysomeenormousconvulsionintomyriadsoffragments。
Theexpression“streamsofstones。”whichimmediatelyoccurredtoeveryone,conveysthesameidea。Thesescenesareonthespotrenderedmorestrikingbythecontrastofthelowroundedformsoftheneighbouringhills。
Iwasinterestedbyfindingonthehighestpeakofonerangeabout700feetabovetheseaagreatarchedfragment,lyingonitsconvexside,orbackdownwards。Mustwebelievethatitwasfairlypitchedupintheair,andthusturned?Or,withmoreprobability,thatthereexistedformerlyapartofthesamerangemoreelevatedthanthepointonwhichthismonumentofagreatconvulsionofnaturenowlies。Asthefragmentsinthevalleysareneitherroundednorthecrevicesfilledupwithsand,wemustinferthattheperiodofviolencewassubsequenttothelandhavingbeenraisedabovethewatersofthesea。Inatransversesectionwithinthesevalleys,thebottomisnearlylevel,orrisesbutverylittletowardseitherside。
Hencethefragmentsappeartohavetravelledfromtheheadofthevalley;
butinrealityitseemsmoreprobablethattheyhavebeenhurleddownfromthenearestslopes;andthatsince,byavibratorymovementofoverwhelmingforce,[9]thefragmentshavebeenlevelledintoonecontinuoussheet。Ifduringtheearthquake[10]whichin1835overthrewConcepcion,inChile,itwasthoughtwonderfulthatsmallbodiesshouldhavebeenpitchedafewinchesfromtheground,whatmustwesaytoamovementwhichhascausedfragmentsmanytonsinweight,tomoveonwardslikesomuchsandonavibratingboard,andfindtheirlevel?