首页 >出版文学> THE VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE>第34章
  Thecattle,insteadofhavingdegeneratedlikethehorse,seem,asbeforeremarked,tohaveincreasedinsize;andtheyaremuchmorenumerousthanthehorsesCapt。SulivaninformsmethattheyvarymuchlessinthegeneralformoftheirbodiesandintheshapeoftheirhornsthanEnglishcattle。
  Incolourtheydiffermuch;anditisaremarkablecircumstance,thatindifferentpartsofthisonesmallisland,differentcolourspredominate。
  RoundMountUsborne,ataheightoffrom1000to1500feetabovethesea,abouthalfofsomeoftheherdsaremouseorlead-coloured,atintwhichisnotcommoninotherpartsoftheisland。NearPortPleasantdarkbrownprevails,whereassouthofChoiseulSoundwhichalmostdividestheislandintotwoparts,whitebeastswithblackheadsandfeetarethemostcommon:
  inallpartsblack,andsomespottedanimalsmaybeobserved。Capt。Sulivanremarks,thatthedifferenceintheprevailingcolourswassoobvious,thatinlookingfortheherdsnearPortPleasant,theyappearedfromalongdistancelikeblackspots,whilstsouthofChoiseulSoundtheyappearedlikewhitespotsonthehill-sides。Capt。Sulivanthinksthattheherdsdonotmingle;anditisasingularfact,thatthemouse-colouredcattle,thoughlivingonthehighland,calveaboutamonthearlierintheseasonthantheothercolouredbeastsonthelowerland。Itisinterestingthustofindtheoncedomesticatedcattlebreakingintothreecolours,ofwhichsomeonecolourwouldinallprobabilityultimatelyprevailovertheothers,iftheherdswereleftundisturbedforthenextseveralcenturies。
  Therabbitisanotheranimalwhichhasbeenintroduced,andhassucceededverywell;sothattheyaboundoverlargepartsoftheisland。Yet,likethehorses,theyareconfinedwithincertainlimits;fortheyhavenotcrossedthecentralchainofhills,norwouldtheyhaveextendedevensofarasitsbase,if,astheGauchosinformedme,smallcolonieshadnotbeencarriedthere。Ishouldnothavesupposedthattheseanimals,nativesofnorthernAfrica,couldhaveexistedinaclimatesohumidasthis,andwhichenjoyssolittlesunshinethatevenwheatripensonlyoccasionally。
  ItisassertedthatinSweden,whichanyonewouldhavethoughtamorefavourableclimate,therabbitcannotliveoutofdoors。Thefirstfewpairs,moreover,hadheretocontendagainstpre-existingenemies,inthefoxandsomelargehawks。TheFrenchnaturalistshaveconsideredtheblackvarietyadistinctspecies,andcalleditLepusMagellanicus。[5]TheyimaginedthatMagellan,whentalkingofananimalunderthenameof“conejos“intheStraitofMagellan,referredtothisspecies;buthewasalludingtoasmallcavy,whichtothisdayisthuscalledbytheSpaniards。
  TheGauchoslaughedattheideaoftheblackkindbeingdifferentfromthegrey,andtheysaidthatatalleventsithadnotextendeditsrangeanyfurtherthanthegreykind;thatthetwowereneverfoundseparate;
  andthattheyreadilybredtogether,andproducedpiebaldoffspring。OfthelatterInowpossessaspecimen,anditismarkedabouttheheaddifferentlyfromtheFrenchspecificdescription。Thiscircumstanceshowshowcautiousnaturalistsshouldbeinmakingspecies;forevenCuvier,onlookingattheskullofoneoftheserabbits,thoughtitwasprobablydistinct!
  Theonlyquadrupednativetotheisland[6];isalargewolf-likefoxCanisantarcticus,whichiscommontobothEastandWestFalkland。Ihavenodoubtitisapeculiarspecies,andconfinedtothisarchipelago;becausemanysealers,Gauchos,andIndians,whohavevisitedtheseislands,allmaintainthatnosuchanimalisfoundinanypartofSouthAmerica。
  Molina,fromasimilarityinhabits,thoughtthatthiswasthesamewithhis“culpeu;“[7]butIhaveseenboth,andtheyarequitedistinct。ThesewolvesarewellknownfromByron’saccountoftheirtamenessandcuriosity,whichthesailors,whoranintothewatertoavoidthem,mistookforfierceness。Tothisdaytheirmannersremainthesame。Theyhavebeenobservedtoenteratent,andactuallypullsomemeatfrombeneaththeheadofasleepingseaman。TheGauchosalsohavefrequentlyintheeveningkilledthem,byholdingoutapieceofmeatinonehand,andintheotheraknifereadytostickthem。AsfarasIamaware,thereisnootherinstanceinanypartoftheworld,ofsosmallamassofbrokenland,distantfromacontinent,possessingsolargeanaboriginalquadrupedpeculiartoitself。Theirnumbershaverapidlydecreased;
  theyarealreadybanishedfromthathalfoftheislandwhichliestotheeastwardoftheneckoflandbetweenSt。SalvadorBayandBerkeleySound。
  Withinaveryfewyearsaftertheseislandsshallhavebecomeregularlysettled,inallprobabilitythisfoxwillbeclassedwiththedodo,asananimalwhichhasperishedfromthefaceoftheearth。
  Atnight17thwesleptontheneckoflandattheheadofChoiseulSound,whichformsthesouth-westpeninsula。Thevalleywasprettywellshelteredfromthecoldwind;buttherewasverylittlebrushwoodforfuel。
  TheGauchos,however,soonfoundwhat,tomygreatsurprise,madenearlyashotafireascoals;thiswastheskeletonofabullocklatelykilled,fromwhichthefleshhadbeenpickedbythecarrion-hawks。Theytoldmethatinwintertheyoftenkilledabeast,cleanedthefleshfromtheboneswiththeirknives,andthenwiththesesamebonesroastedthemeatfortheirsuppers。
  18th——Itrainedduringnearlythewholeday。Atnightwemanaged,however,withoursaddle-clothstokeepourselvesprettywelldryandwarm;
  butthegroundonwhichwesleptwasoneachoccasionnearlyinthestateofabog,andtherewasnotadryspottositdownonafterourday’sride。
  Ihaveinanotherpartstatedhowsingularitisthatthereshouldbeabsolutelynotreesontheseislands,althoughTierradelFuegoiscoveredbyonelargeforest。ThelargestbushintheislandbelongingtothefamilyofCompositaeisscarcelysotallasourgorse。Thebestfuelisaffordedbyagreenlittlebushaboutthesizeofcommonheath,whichhastheusefulpropertyofburningwhilefreshandgreen。ItwasverysurprisingtoseetheGauchos,inthemidstofrainandeverythingsoakingwet,withnothingmorethanatinder-boxandapieceofrag,immediatelymakeafire。Theysoughtbeneaththetuftsofgrassandbushesforafewdrytwigs,andthesetheyrubbedintofibres;thensurroundingthemwithcoarsertwigs,somethinglikeabird’snest,theyputtheragwithitssparkoffireinthemiddleandcovereditup。Thenestbeingthenhelduptothewind,bydegreesitsmokedmoreandmore,andatlastburstoutinflames。Idonotthinkanyothermethodwouldhavehadachanceofsucceedingwithsuchdampmaterials。
  19th——Eachmorning,fromnothavingriddenforsometimepreviously,Iwasverystiff。IwassurprisedtoheartheGauchos,whohavefrominfancyalmostlivedonhorseback,saythat,undersimilarcircumstances,theyalwayssuffer。St。Jagotoldme,thathavingbeenconfinedforthreemonthsbyillness,hewentouthuntingwildcattle,andinconsequence,forthenexttwodays,histhighsweresostiffthathewasobligedtolieinbed。
  ThisshowsthattheGauchos,althoughtheydonotappeartodoso,yetreallymustexertmuchmusculareffortinriding。Thehuntingwildcattle,inacountrysodifficulttopassasthisisonaccountoftheswampyground,mustbeveryhardwork。TheGauchossaytheyoftenpassatfullspeedovergroundwhichwouldbeimpassableataslowerpace;inthesamemannerasamanisabletoskateoverthinice。Whenhunting,thepartyendeavourstogetascloseaspossibletotheherdwith。outbeingdiscovered。Eachmancarriesfourorfivepairofthebolas;thesehethrowsoneaftertheotheratasmanycattle,which,whenonceentangled,areleftforsomedaystilltheybecomealittleexhaustedbyhungerandstruggling。Theyarethenletfreeanddriventowardsasmallherdoftameanimals,whichhavebeenbroughttothespotonpurpose。Fromtheirprevioustreatment,beingtoomuchterrifiedtoleavetheherd,theyareeasilydriven,iftheirstrengthlastout,tothesettlement。
  Theweathercontinuedsoverybadthatwedeterminedtomakeapush,andtrytoreachthevesselbeforenight。Fromthequantityofrainwhichhadfallen,thesurfaceofthewholecountrywasswampy。Isupposemyhorsefellatleastadozentimes,andsometimesthewholesixhorseswereflounderinginthemudtogether。Allthelittlestreamsareborderedbysoftpeat,whichmakesitverydifficultforthehorsestoleapthemwithoutfalling。
  Tocompleteourdiscomfortswewereobligedtocrosstheheadofacreekofthesea,inwhichthewaterwasashighasourhorses’backs;andthelittlewaves,owingtotheviolenceofthewind,brokeoverus,andmadeusverywetandcold。Eventheiron-framedGauchosprofessedthemselvesgladwhentheyreachedthesettlement,afterourlittleexcursion。
  Thegeologicalstructureoftheseislandsisinmostrespectssimple。
  Thelowercountryconsistsofclay-slateandsandstone,containingfossils,verycloselyrelatedto,butnotidenticalwith,thosefoundintheSilurianformationsofEurope;thehillsareformedofwhitegranularquartzrock。
  Thestrataofthelatterarefrequentlyarchedwithperfectsymmetry,andtheappearanceofsomeofthemassesisinconsequencemostsingular。Pernety[8]hasdevotedseveralpagestothedescriptionofaHillofRuins,thesuccessivestrataofwhichhehasjustlycomparedtotheseatsofanamphitheatre。Thequartzrockmusthavebeenquitepastywhenitunderwentsuchremarkableflexureswithoutbeingshatteredintofragments。Asthequartzinsensiblypassesintothesandstone,itseemsprobablethattheformerowesitsorigintothesandstonehavingbeenheatedtosuchadegreethatitbecameviscid,anduponcoolingcrystallized。
  Whileinthesoftstateitmusthavebeenpushedupthroughtheoverlyingbeds。
  Inmanypartsoftheislandthebottomsofthevalleysarecoveredinanextraordinarymannerbymyriadsofgreatlooseangularfragmentsofthequartzrock,forming“streamsofstones。”ThesehavebeenmentionedwithsurprisebyeveryvoyagersincethetimeofPernety。Theblocksarenotwaterworn,theiranglesbeingonlyalittleblunted;theyvaryinsizefromoneortwofeetindiametertoten,orevenmorethantwentytimesasmuch。Theyarenotthrowntogetherintoirregularpiles,butarespreadoutintolevelsheetsorgreatstreams。Itisnotpossibletoascertaintheirthickness,butthewaterofsmallstreamletscanbeheardtricklingthroughthestonesmanyfeetbelowthesurface。Theactualdepthisprobablygreat,becausethecrevicesbetweenthelowerfragmentsmustlongagohavebeenfilledupwithsand。Thewidthofthesesheetsofstonesvariesfromafewhundredfeettoamile;butthepeatysoildailyencroachesontheborders,andevenformsisletswhereverafewfragmentshappentolieclosetogether。InavalleysouthofBerkeleySound,whichsomeofourpartycalledthe“greatvalleyoffragments。”itwasnecessarytocrossanuninterruptedbandhalfamilewide,byjumpingfromonepointedstonetoanother。Solargewerethefragments,thatbeingovertakenbyashowerofrain,Ireadilyfoundshelterbeneathoneofthem。
  Theirlittleinclinationisthemostremarkablecircumstanceinthese“streamsofstones。”Onthehill-sidesIhaveseenthemslopingatanangleoftendegreeswiththehorizon;butinsomeofthelevel,broad-bottomedvalleys,theinclinationisonlyjustsufficienttobeclearlyperceived。
  Onsoruggedasurfacetherewasnomeansofmeasuringtheangle,buttogiveacommonillustration,ImaysaythattheslopewouldnothavecheckedthespeedofanEnglishmail-coach。Insomeplaces,acontinuousstreamofthesefragmentsfollowedupthecourseofavalley,andevenextendedtotheverycrestofthehill。Onthesecrestshugemasses,exceedingindimensionsanysmallbuilding,seemedtostandarrestedintheirheadlongcourse:there,also,thecurvedstrataofthearchwayslaypiledoneachother,liketheruinsofsomevastandancientcathedral。Inendeavouringtodescribethesescenesofviolenceoneistemptedtopassfromonesimiletoanother。Wemayimaginethatstreamsofwhitelavahadflowedfrommanypartsofthemountainsintothelowercountry,andthatwhensolidifiedtheyhadbeenrentbysomeenormousconvulsionintomyriadsoffragments。
  Theexpression“streamsofstones。”whichimmediatelyoccurredtoeveryone,conveysthesameidea。Thesescenesareonthespotrenderedmorestrikingbythecontrastofthelowroundedformsoftheneighbouringhills。
  Iwasinterestedbyfindingonthehighestpeakofonerangeabout700feetabovetheseaagreatarchedfragment,lyingonitsconvexside,orbackdownwards。Mustwebelievethatitwasfairlypitchedupintheair,andthusturned?Or,withmoreprobability,thatthereexistedformerlyapartofthesamerangemoreelevatedthanthepointonwhichthismonumentofagreatconvulsionofnaturenowlies。Asthefragmentsinthevalleysareneitherroundednorthecrevicesfilledupwithsand,wemustinferthattheperiodofviolencewassubsequenttothelandhavingbeenraisedabovethewatersofthesea。Inatransversesectionwithinthesevalleys,thebottomisnearlylevel,orrisesbutverylittletowardseitherside。
  Hencethefragmentsappeartohavetravelledfromtheheadofthevalley;
  butinrealityitseemsmoreprobablethattheyhavebeenhurleddownfromthenearestslopes;andthatsince,byavibratorymovementofoverwhelmingforce,[9]thefragmentshavebeenlevelledintoonecontinuoussheet。Ifduringtheearthquake[10]whichin1835overthrewConcepcion,inChile,itwasthoughtwonderfulthatsmallbodiesshouldhavebeenpitchedafewinchesfromtheground,whatmustwesaytoamovementwhichhascausedfragmentsmanytonsinweight,tomoveonwardslikesomuchsandonavibratingboard,andfindtheirlevel?