首页 >出版文学> The Nile Tributaries of Abyssinia>第11章
  EveninthebeautifulshootingcountrycomprisedbetweentheriverGashandGallabat,althoughwehadexcellentsport,Ihadbeendisappointedatthenumberofelephants,whichIhadexpectedtofindinherdsofmanyhundreds,insteadoffortyorfifty,whichwasthelargestnumberthatIhadseentogether。Thehabitsofallanimalsgenerallydependuponthenatureofthelocalitiestheyinhabit。Thus,asthesecountriesweresubjecttolongdroughtandscarcityofwater,theelephantswere,insomeplaces,contentedwithdrinkingeveryalternateday。Wheretheyweremuchhuntedbytheaggageers,theywouldseldomdrinktwiceconsecutivelyinthesameriver。but,afteralongdraughtintheSettite,theywouldmarchfromtwenty-fivetothirtymiles,andremainforadaybetweenthatriverandtheMareborGash,towhichtheywouldhurryonthefollowingnight。Atothertimes,thesewilyanimalswoulddrinkintheSettite,andretiretothesouth。feedinguponMekNimmur'scorn-fields,theywouldhurryforwardtotheriverSalaam,aboutthirtymilesdistant,andfromthence,inasimilarmanner,eithertotheAtbaraononeside,orintotheAbyssinianmountains,where,atalltimes,theycouldprocureasupplyofwater。Ihavefrequentlydiscoveredfreshgrainsofdhurraintheirdung,atagreatdistancefromthenearestcorn-field。whentherapiddigestionoftheelephantisconsidered,itmustbeallowedthatthefreshdungfoundinthemorningborewitnesstothetheftofcornduringthepastnight。
  thustheelephanthadmarchedmanymilesafterfeeding。Inthe"RifleandHoundinCeylon,"publishedin1854,Igaveadetaileddescriptionoftheelephantsofthatcountry,which,althoughpeculiarinthegeneralabsenceoftusks,arethesameastheIndianspecies。
  Althoughtheelephantisfoundthroughoutmanycountries,extendingoveranenormousarea,thereareonlytwospeciesatpresentinexistence,——theIndianandAfrican。thesearetotallydifferentintheirhabits,andaredistinguishedbypeculiaritiesofform。Themoststrikingdifferenceisintheshapeoftheheadandspine。TheheadoftheIndianspeciesisperfectlydistinct。
  theforehead,whenheldinthenaturalpositionofinaction,isperpendicular。andabovetheslightconvexityattherootofthetrunkthereisadepression,inshapelikeaherald'sshield:abulletinthelowerportionofthatshieldwouldreachthebraininadirectline。TheheadoftheAfricanelephantiscompletelyconvexfromthecommencementofthetrunktothebackoftheskull,andthebrainissituatedmuchlowerthaninthatoftheIndianspecies。theboneisofadenserquality,andthecasesforthereceptionofthetusksaresocloselyparallel,thatthereisbarelyroomforabullettofindachanceofpenetratingtothebrain。itmustbedeliveredintheexactcentre,andextremelylow,intheveryrootofthetrunk。eventhenitwillfrequentlypassabovethebrain,astheanimalgenerallycarrieshisheadhigh,andthrownslightlyback。TheteethoftheAfricanelephantdiffermateriallyfromthoseoftheIndian,bycontainingalessernumberoflaminaeorplates,thesurfacesofwhich,insteadofexhibitingstraightandparallellineslikethoseoftheIndian,areshapedinslightcurves,whichincreasethepowerofgrinding。TheearsoftheAfricanspeciesareenormous,andwhenthrownbacktheycompletelycovertheshoulders。theyarealsoentirelydifferentinshapefromthoseoftheIndianspecies。WhenanAfricanbullelephantadvancesinfullchargewithhisearscocked,hisheadmeasuresaboutfourteenfeetfromthetipofoneeartothatoftheother,inadirectlineacrosstheforehead。Ihavefrequentlycutofftheeartoformamat,uponwhichIhavesleptbeneaththeshadeofatree,whilemypeopledividedtheanimal。
  ThebackoftheIndianelephantisexceedinglyconvex。thatoftheAfricanisexactlythereverse,andtheconcavitybehindtheshouldersissucceededbyapeculiarityinthesuddenriseofthespineabovethehips。Thetwospeciesarenotonlydistinctincertainpeculiaritiesofform,buttheydifferintheirhabits。
  TheIndianelephantdislikesthesun,andinvariablyretreatstothickshadyforestsatsunrise。butIhaveconstantlyfoundtheAfricanspeciesenjoyingthemselvesintheburningsuninthehottesthoursoftheday,amongplainsofwitheredgrass,manymilesfromajungle。TheAfricanismoreactivethantheIndian,andnotonlyisfasterinhismovements,butismorecapableofenduringlongmarches,asprovedbythegreatdistancesthroughwhichittravelstoseekitsfoodinthenative'scorn-fields。Inallcountries,thebullsarefiercerthanthefemales。IcannotseemuchdifferenceincharacterbetweentheIndianandtheAfricanspecies。itisthefashionforsomepeopletoassertthattheelephantisaninnocentandharmlesscreature,that,likethegiraffeitisalmostasintodestroy。Icanonlysaythat,duringeightyears'experienceinCeylon,andnearlyfiveyears'
  inAfrica,Ihavefoundthatelephantsarethemostformidableanimalswithwhichasportsmanhastocontend。TheAfricanspeciesisfarmoredangerousthantheIndian,astheforeheadshotcanneverbetrusted。thereforethehuntermustawaitthechargewithaconvictionthathisbulletwillfailtokill。
  TheAfricanelephantisaboutafoothigherthantheaverageoftheIndianspecies。Thebullsoftheformerareabouttenfeetsixinchesattheshoulder。thefemalesarebetweenninefeetandninefeetsix。Ofcoursetherearemanybullsthatexceedthisheight,andIhaveseensomefewofbothspeciesthatmightequaltwelvefeet,butthosearetheexceptionalGoliaths。
  Thetusksofelephantsvaryconsiderably,andthereappearstobenoruletodetermineareasonfortheirsizeandquality。InAbyssiniaandTaka,asingletuskofabullelephantseldomexceedsfortypounds,nordotheyaveragemorethantwenty-five,butinCentralAfricatheyaverageaboutforty,andIhaveseenthemupwardsofonehundredandfiftypounds。ThelargestthatI
  havehadthegoodfortunetobagwaseightypounds。thefellow-tuskwasslightlybelowseventy。Elephantsinvariablyuseonetuskinpreference,asweusetherighthand。thusitisdifficulttoobtainanexactpair,astheHadamorservant,astheArabscalltheworkingtusk,isgenerallymuchworn。TheAfricanelephantisamoredecidedtree-feederthantheIndian,andthedestructioncommittedbyalargeherdofsuchanimalswhenfeedinginamimosaforestisextraordinary。theydeliberatelymarchforward,anduprootorbreakdowneverytreethatexcitestheirappetite。Themimosasaregenerallyfromsixteentotwentyfeethigh,and,havingnotap-root,theyareeasilyoverturnedbythetusksoftheelephants,whicharedrivenlikecrowbarsbeneaththeroots,andusedaslevers,inwhichroughlabourtheyarefrequentlybroken。Upontheoverthrowofatree,theelephantseattherootsandleaves,andstripthebarkfromthebranchesbygraspingthemwiththeirroughtrunks。
  TheAfricanelephantisequallydocileastheIndian,whendomesticated,butwehavenoaccountofanegrotribethathasevertamedoneofthesesagaciousanimals:theironlymaximis"killandeat。"Althoughthefleshoftheelephantisextremelycoarse,thefootandtrunkareexcellent,ifproperlycooked。A
  holeshouldbedugintheearth,aboutfourfeetdeep,andtwofeetsixinchesindiameter,thesidesofwhichshouldbeperpendicular。inthisalargefireshouldbelighted,andkeptburningforfourorfivehourswithacontinualsupplyofwood,sothatthewallsbecomered-hot。Attheexpirationoftheblaze,thefootshouldbelaidupontheglowingembers,andtheholecoveredcloselywiththickpiecesofgreenwoodlaidparalleltogethertoformaceiling。thisshouldbecoveredwithwetgrass,andthewholeplasteredwithmud,andstampedtightlydowntoretaintheheat。Uponthemud,aquantityofearthshouldbeheaped,andtheovenshouldnotbeopenedforthirtyhours,ormore。Attheexpirationofthattime,thefootwillbeperfectlybaked,andthesolewillseparatelikeashoe,andexposeadelicatesubstancethat,withalittleoilandvinegar,togetherwithanallowanceofpepperandsalt,isadeliciousdishthatwillfeedaboutfiftymen。
  TheArabsareparticularlyfondofelephant'sflesh,asitisgenerallyfatandjuicy。Ihavefrequentlyusedthefatoftheanimalforcooking,butitshouldbetakenfromthebodywithoutdelay。as,ifleftforafewhours,itpartakesofthepeculiarsmelloftheelephant,whichnoamountofboilingwillovercome。
  Theboilingoffatforpreservationrequiresmuchcare,asitshouldattainsogreataheatthatafewdropsofwaterthrownuponthesurfacewillhissandevaporateasthoughcastuponmoltenmetal。itshouldthenbestrained,and,whentolerablycool,bepouredintovessels,andsecured。Nosaltisnecessary,provideditisthoroughlyboiled。Whenananimaliskilled,thefleshshouldbeproperlydried,beforeboilingdown,otherwisethefatwillnotmeltthoroughly,asitwillbecombinedwiththewatercontainedinthebody。Thefatshouldbeseparatedaswellaspossiblefromthemeat。itshouldthenbehunginlongstripsuponalineandexposedinthesuntodry。whennearlydried,itshouldbecutintopiecesofabouttwoinchesinlength,andplacedinalargevesseloverabriskfire,andkeptconstantlystirred。Asthefatboilsoutfromthemeat,theresidueshouldbetakenoutwithapiercedladle。this,whencool,shouldbecarefullypreservedinleathernbags。ThisiscalledbytheArabs"reveet,"asupplyofwhichismostvaluable,asaquantitycanbeservedouttoeachmanduringalongmarchwhenthereisnotimetohalt。itcanbeeatenwithoutbread,anditisextremelynourishing。Withagoodsupplyofreveetinstore,thetravellerneednotbenervousabouthisdinner。Driedmeatshouldalsobekeptinlargequantities。thebestisthatofthegiraffeandhippopotamus,butthereissomecarerequiredinpreparingthefirstquality。Itshouldbecutfromportionsoftheanimalsasfreeaspossiblefromsinews,andshouldbearrangedinlongthinstripsofthediameterofaboutaninchandaquarter。theseribbon-likemorselsshouldbehungintheshade。Whennearlydry,theyshouldbetakendown,andlaiduponaflatrock,uponwhichtheyshouldbewellbeatenwithastone,orclubofhardwood。
  thisbreaksthefibre。afterwhichtheyshouldbehungupandthoroughlydried,carebeingtakenthatthefleshisnotexposedtothesun。Ifmanyfliesarepresent,thefleshshouldbeprotectedbythesmokeoffireslightedtowindward。
  Whenmeatisthuscarefullyprepared,itcanbeusedinvariousways,andisexceedinglypalatable。ifpoundedintosmallpieceslikecoarsesawdust,itformsanadmirablematerialforcurryandrice。TheArabsmakeafirst-classdishofmelach,bymixingaquantityofpoundeddriedmeatwithathickporridgeofdhurrameal,floatinginasoupofbarmianwaker,withonions,salt,andredpeppers。thisisanadmirablethingifthepartyispressedfortimeifnottoohot,asalargequantitycanbeeatenwithgreatexpedition。AstheArabsarenomadic,theyhaveafewsimplebuteffectivearrangementsforfoodduringthejourney。Forafortnightpreparatorytoanexpedition,thewomenarebusilyengagedinmanufacturingasupplyofabrey。Thisismadeinseveralmethods:thereisthesour,andthesweetabrey。
  theformerismadeofhighly-fermenteddhurrapastethathasturnedintenselyacid。thisisformedintothinwafers,aboutsixteeninchesindiameter,uponthedokaorhearth,anddriedinthesununtiltheabreyhasbecomeperfectlycrisp。thewafersarethenbrokenupwiththehands,andpackedinbags。Thereisnodrinkmorerefreshingthanwaterpouredoverahandfulofsourabrey,andallowedtostandforhalfanhour。itbecomespleasantlyacid,andissuperiortolemonade。TheresidueiseatenbytheArabs:thustheabreysuppliesbothmeatanddrink。
  Thefinestqualityofsweetabreyisaverydelicateaffair。theflourofdhurramustbewellsifted。itisthenmixedwithmilkinsteadofwater,and,withoutfermenting,itisformedintothinwaferssimilartothoseeatenwithice-creamsinthiscountry,butextremelylarge。thesearedriedinthesun,andcrushedlikethesourabrey。theywillkeepformonthsifkeptdryinaleathernbag。Ahandfulofsweetabreysteepedinabowlofhotmilk,withalittlehoney,isaluxuriousbreakfast。nothingcanbemoredelicious,anditcanbepreparedinafewminutesduringtheshorthaltuponajourney。Withagoodsupplyofabreyanddriedmeat,thecommissariatarrangementsarewonderfullysimplified,andapartycanmarchagreatdistancewithoutmuchheavybaggagetoimpedetheirmovements。
  ThefleshthatistheleastadaptedfordryingisthatofthebuffaloBosCaffer,whichisexceedinglytoughandcoarse。
  TherearetwospeciesoftheBosCafferinAbyssiniaandCentralAfrica,which,similaringeneralappearance,differinthehorns。thatwhichresemblesthetrueBosCafferofSouthAfricahasverymassiveconvexhornsthatuniteinfront,andcompletelycovertheforeheadaswithashield。theothervarietyhasmassive,butperfectlyflathornsofgreatbreadth,thatdonotquiteuniteovertheosfrontis,althoughnearlyso。theflatnessofthehornscontinuesinaroughsurface,somewhatresemblingthebarkofatree,forabouttwelveinches。thehornsthenbecomeround,andcurvegracefullyinwards,likethoseoftheconvexspecies。Buffaloesareverydangerousanddeterminedanimals。but,althoughmoreaccidentsoccurinhuntingthesethananyothervarietyofgame,Icannotadmitthattheyaresuchformidableopponentsastheelephantandblackrhinoceros。theyaresomuchmorenumerousthanthelatter,thattheyaremorefrequentlyencountered:hencethecasualties。
  AbuffalocanalwaysbekilledwithaNo。10rifleandsixdrachmsofpowderwhencharging,ifthehunterwillonlywaitcoollyuntilitissoclosethathecannotmisstheforehead。butthesameriflewillfailagainstanAfricanelephant,orablackrhinoceros,asthehornsofthelatteranimaleffectuallyprotectthebrainfromafrontshot。Ihavekilledsomehundredsofbuffaloes,and,althoughinmanycasestheyhavebeenunpleasantlynear,theriflehasalwayswontheday。TherecannotbeamoreconvenientsizethanNo。10foradoublerifle,forlargegame。Thiswillthrowaconicalprojectileofthreeounces,withsevendrachmsofpowder。Althoughabreechloaderisaluxury,Iwouldnothavemorethanapairofsuchriflesinanexpeditioninawildcountry,astheywouldrequiremorecareinadampclimatethantheservantswouldbelikelytobestowuponthem,andtheammunitionwouldbeagreatdrawback。Thisshouldbedividedintopacketsoftencartridgeseach,whichshouldberolledupinflannelandhermeticallysealedinseparatetincanisters。Thusarranged,theywouldbeimpervioustodamp,andmightbecarriedconveniently。ButIshoulddecidedlyprovidemyselfwithfourdouble-barrelledmuzzle-loadingNo。10'sasmyregularbattery。that,iffirstclass,wouldnevergetoutoforder。Nothinggivessuchconfidencetothegun-bearersasthefactoftheirriflesbeinggoodslayers,andtheyquicklylearntotakeaprideintheirweapons,andtostriveintheracetohandthesparerifles。Duststorms,suchasIhaveconstantlywitnessedinAfrica,wouldbeterribleenemiestobreech-loaders,asthehardsand,bygratinginthejoints,wouldwearawaythemetal,anddestroytheexactnessofthefittings。
  Asmallhandydoublerifle,suchasmylittleFletcher24,notexceedingeightpoundsandahalf,isverynecessary,asitshouldseldombeoutofthehand。Sucharifleshouldbeabreech-loader,astheadvantageofloadingquicklywhileonhorsebackisincalculable。Hunting-knivesshouldbeofsoftsteel,similartobutchers'knives。butoneprincipalknifetobeworndailyshouldbeofhardersteel,withthebackofthebladeroughedandcase-hardenedlikeabutcher'ssteel,forsharpeningotherkniveswhenrequired。
  Allboxesforroughtravellingshouldbemadeofstrongmetal,japanned。Theseareagreatcomfort,astheyareproofbothagainstinsectsandweather,andcanbetowedwiththeircontentsacrossariver。
  Travellingisnowsogenerallyunderstood,thatitishardlynecessarytogiveanyinstructionsfortheexplorationofwildcountries。butafewhintsmaybeacceptableuponpointsthat,althoughnotabsolutelyessential,tendmuchtothecomfortofthetraveller。Acoupleoflargecarriageumbrellaswithdoublelining,withsmallringsfixedtotheextremitiesoftheribs,andaspikesimilartothatofafishing-rodtoscrewintothehandle,willformaninstantaneousshelterfromsunorrainduringahaltonthemarch,asafewstringsfromtheringswillsecureitfromthewind,ifpeggedtotheground。Waterproofcalicosheetingshouldbetakeninlargequantities,andatarpaulintoprotectthebaggageduringthenight'sbivouac。NovulcanisedIndia-rubbershouldbeemployedintropicalclimates。
  itrots,andbecomesuseless。Aquartsyringeforinjectingbrineintofreshmeatisverynecessary。Inhotclimates,thecentreofthejointwilldecomposebeforethesaltcanpenetratetotheinterior,butaninjectingsyringewillthoroughlypreservethemeatinafewminutes。Afewpowerfulfox-trapsareusefulforcatchingnight-gameincountrieswherethereisnolargegamefortherifle:alsowireisusefulformakingsprings。
  SeveralsticksofIndian-inkareconvenient,assufficientcanberubbedupinafewmomentstowriteupthenote-bookduringthemarch。Alljournalsandnote-booksshouldbeoftintedpaper,green,astheglareofwhitepaperintheintensesunlightoftheopenskyismosttryingtotheeyes。Burningglassesandflintandsteelsareverynecessary。Lucifermatchesaredangerous,astheymayigniteanddestroyyourbaggageindryweather,andbecomeutterlyuselessinthedamp。
  Alargesupplyofquicksilvershouldbetakenfortheadmixturewithleadforhardeningbullets,inadditiontothatrequiredfortheartificialhorizon。theeffectofthismetalisfargreaterthanamixtureoftin,asthespecificgravityofthebulletisincreased。
  Throughoutalongexperienceinwildsports,althoughIadmirethevelocityofconicalprojectiles,Ialwayshaveretainedmyopinionthat,injunglecountries,whereintheabsenceofdogsyourequireeithertodisableyourgameonthespot,ortoproduceadistinctblood-trackthatiseasilyfollowed,theold-fashionedtwo-groovebeltedballwillbagmoregamethanmodernbullets。but,ontheotherhand,thefacilityofloadingaconicalbulletalreadyformedintoacartridgeisagreatadvantage。Theshockproducedbyapointedprojectileisnothingcomparedtothatoftheoldbeltedball,unlessitisontheprincipleofPurday'shighvelocityexpandingbullet,which,althoughperfectionfordeer-shooting,wouldbeuselessagainstthick-skinnedanimals,suchasbuffaloandrhinoceros。InAfrica,thevarietyofgameissuch,thatitisimpossibletotell,whenloading,atwhatanimalthebulletwillbefired。therefore,itisnecessarytobearmedwithariflesuitableforallcomers。MylittleFletcherwastheEnfieldbore,No。24,and,althoughamosttrustyweapon,thebulletsgenerallyfailedtopenetratetheskullofhippopotami,exceptinplaceswherethebonewasthin,suchasbehindtheear,andbeneaththeeyes。AlthoughIkilledgreatnumbersofanimalswiththeEnfieldbullet,thesuccesswasduetotolerablycorrectshooting,asIgenerallylostthelargerantelopesifwoundedbythatprojectileinanyplacebuttheneck,head,orshoulder。thewounddidnotbleedfreely,thereforeitwasnexttoimpossibletofollowuptheblood-track。
  thusalargeproportionofwoundedanimalsescaped。
  Isaw,andshot,thirteenvarietiesofantelopeswhileinAfrica。
  UponarrivalatKhartoum,ImetHerrvonHeuglin,whocommandedtheexpeditioninsearchofDr。Vogel。hewasanindustriousnaturalist,whohadbeenmanyyearsintheSoudanandinAbyssinia。Wecomparednotesofallwehadseenanddone,andheverykindlysuppliedmewithalistofalltheantelopesthathehadbeenabletotraceasexistinginAbyssiniaandtheSoudan。
  henowincludedmymaarif,whichhehadnevermetwith,andwhichheagreedwasanewspecies。Inthefollowinglist,whichisanexactcopyofthatwhichhehadarranged,thosemarkedwithanasteriskarespeciesthatIhavemyselfshot:——
  Cataloguedesespecesdugenre"ANTILOPE,"observeesenEgypte,danslaNubie,auSoudanorientaleetenAbissinie。
  A——GAZELLA,Blains。
  1——Spec。G。Dorcas。*Arab。Ghasal。
  2——G。Arabica,*Ehr。AlacotedelaMerrouge。
  3——G。Loevipes,Sund。Arab。AbouHorabet?Nubie,Taka,Sennaar,Kordofan。
  4——G。spec。?enTigrehChoquenBogos。
  5——G。Dama,*Licht。Arab。Adra,Ledra。Riel,Bajouda,Berber,Sennaar,Kordofan。
  6——G。Soemmeringii,Rupp。Arab。OmOreba。Tigreh,Arab。Taka,Massowa,Gedaref,Berber,Sennaar。
  7——G。Leptoceros。Arab。AbouHarab。Gazellealonguescornes,mincesetparalleles。Bajouda,Berber,Taka,Sennaar,Kordofan。
  B——CALOTRAGUS,Luad。
  8——C。montanus,*Rupp。Arab。OtrabandElMor。Amhar,Fiego,Sennaar,Abissinie,Taka,Galabat。
  9——C。Saltatrix,Forst。Amhar。Sasa。Abissinie。
  C——NANOTRAGUS,Wagn。
  10——N。Hemprichianus,Ehr。Arab。Omdigdig。Abissinieorientaleetoccidentale,Taka,Kordofan。
  D——CEPHALOLOPHUS,H。Smith。
  11——C。Madaqua。Amhar。Midakoua。Galabat,Barka,Abissinie。
  12,13——DeuxespecesinconnuesduFleuveblanc,nomineesparlesDjenkes,"Amok。"
  E——REDUNCA。
  14——R。Eleotragus,Schrb。Djenke,Bor。BahrelAbiad。
  15——R。Behor,Rupp。Amhar。Behor。Abissiniecentrale,Kordofan。
  16——R。Kull,nov。spec。Djenke,Koul。BahrelAbiad。
  17——R。leucotis,PetersetLicht。Djenke,Adjel。BahrelAbiad,Saubat。
  18——R。Wuil,nov。spec。Djenke,Ouil。BahrelAbiad,Saubat。
  19——R。Lechee,*Gray。BahrelAbiad。
  20——R。megcerosa,*Heuglin。KobusMaria,Gray。Djenke,Abok,Saubat,BahrelAbiadetBahrGhazal。
  21——R。Defassa,*Rupp。Arab。OmHetehet。Amhar。Dofasa。Djenke,Bor。BahrelSalame,Galabat,Kordofan,BahrelAbiad,Dender,Abissinieoccidentaleetcentrale。
  22——R。ellipsiprymna,Ogilby。Djenke,Bor。BahrelAbiad。
  F——HIPPOTRAGUS,Sund。
  23——H。niger,Harris。Arab。AbouMaarif。Kordofanmeridionale,fleuveBlancChilouk。
  24——H。nov。spec。Arab。AbouMaarif。*——Bakerii。*BahrelSalaam,GalabatDender,fleuveBIeu,Sennaarmeridionale。
  25——H。Beisa,Rupp。Arab。BeisaetDamma。Souakim,Massowa,Danakil,Somauli,Kordofan。
  26——H。ensicornis,Ehr。Arab。Ouahohelbagr。Nubie,Berber,Kordofan。
  27——H。Addax,Licht。Arab。Akach。Bajouda,EgypteoccidentaleOasisdeSiouah。
  G——TAUROTRAGUS,Wagn。
  28——T。Orcas,Pall。AntilopeCanna。Djenke,Goualgonal。BahrelAbiad。
  29——T。gigas,nov。spec。ChezlespleupladesAtoats,auBahrelAbiad。
  H——TRAGELAPHUS,Blains。
  30——Tr。strepsicerosPallas。Arab。Nellet,Miremreh。Tigreh,Garona。Ambar。Agazen。Abissinie,Sennaar,Homran,Galabat,Kordofan。
  31——Tr。sylvaticus,Spaerm。BahrelAbiad。
  32——Tr。Dekula,Rupp。Amhar。Dekoula。Arab。Houch。Djenke,Ber。
  Taka,Abissinie,BahrelAbiad。
  I——BUBALIS。
  33——B。Mauritanica,Sund。AntilopeBubalis,Cuvier。Arab。
  Tetel。Tigreh,Tori。Taka,Homran,Barka,Galabat,Kordofan,BahrelAbiad。
  34——B。Caama,Cuv。Arab。Tetel。Djenke,Awalwon。BahrelAbiad,Kordofanmeridionale。
  35——B。Senegalensis,H。Smith。BahrelAbiad。
  36——B。Tiang,nov。spec。Djenke,Tian。BahrelAbiad,BahrGhazal。
  37——B。Tian-riel,nov。spec。BahrelAbiad。
  SPECIESINCERTAE
  "Soada,"auOualkaitetMarebTaurotragus?。
  "Uorobo,"auGodjam,AgowHippotragus。
  "Ouoadembi。"March,OualkaitHippotragus。
  "ElMor。"Sennaar,FazogleNanotragus?。
  "ElKhondieh。"KordofanRedunca?。
  "OmKhat。"KordofanGazella?。
  "ElHamra。"Kordofan,BajoudaGazella?。
  CHAPTERXXII。
  WELEAVETHEDINDER。
  FORsomedayswecontinuedourjourneyalongthebanksoftheDinder,andasthemonotonousriverturnedtowardsthejunctionwiththeBlueNile,afewmilesdistant,wemadeadirectcutacrosstheflatcountry,tocrosstheRahadandarriveatAbouHarrazontheBlueNile。WepassednumerousvillagesandextensiveplantationsofdhurrathatweredesertedbytheArabs,asthesoldiershadarrivedtocollectthetaxes。Imeasuredthedepthsofthewells,seventy-fivefeetandahalf,fromthesurfacetothebottom。thealluvialsoilappearedtocontinuethewholedistance,untilthewaterwasdiscoveredrestinguponhardsand,fullofsmallparticlesofmica。Duringthemarchoveraportionofthecountrythathadbeenclearedbyburning,wemetaremarkablycurioushunting-party。Anumberofthecommonblackandwhitestorkwerehuntingforgrasshoppersandotherinsects,butmounteduponthebackofeachstorkwasalargecopper-colouredflycatcher,which,perchedlikearideronhishorse,keptabrightlook-outforinsects,whichfromitselevatedpositionitcouldeasilydiscoverupontheground。I
  watchedthemforsometime:wheneverthestorksperceivedagrasshopperorotherwingedinsect,theychaseditonfoot,butiftheymissedtheirgame,theflycatchersdartedfromtheirbacksandflewaftertheinsectslikefalcons,catchingthemintheirbeaks,andthenreturningtotheirsteedstolookoutforanotheropportunity。
  Ontheeveningofthe23dMaywearrivedattheRahadclosetoitsjunctionwiththeBlueNile:itwasstilldry,althoughtheDinderwasrising。Iaccountedforthis,fromthefactoftheextremelengthoftheRahad'sbed,which,fromitsextraordinarytortuouscourse,mustabsorbavastamountofwaterinthedrysand,beforetheadvancingstreamcanreachtheNile。BoththeRahadandDinderriseinthemountainsofAbyssinia,atnogreatdistancefromeachother,andduringtherainstheyconveyalargevolumeofwatertotheBlueNile。UponarrivalatAbouHarraz,fourmilestothenorthoftheRahadjunction,wehadmarched,bycarefuldeadreckoning,twohundredandeightymilesfromGallabat。WewerenowaboutahundredandfifteenmilesfromKhartoum,andwestooduponthebanksofthemagnificentBlueNile,thelastoftheAbyssinianaffluents。
  Aboutsixmilesabovethisspot,onthesouthbankoftheriver,isthelargetownofWatMedene,whichistheprincipaltrading-placeupontheriver。AbouHarrazwasamiserablespot,andwasonlyimportantastheturningpointupontheroadtoKatarifffromKhartoum。Theentirecountryuponbothsidesoftheriverisonevastunbrokenlevelofrichsoil,wlichonthenorthandeastsidesisboundedbytheAtbara。Theentiresurfaceofthisfertilecountrymightbecultivatedwithcotton。Allthatisrequiredtoinsureproductiveness,isaregularsupplyofwater,whichmightbeartificiallyarrangedwithoutmuchdifficulty。ThecharacterofalltheAbyssinianriversistoriseandfallsuddenly。thusatoneseasonthereisanabundanceofwater,tobefollowedbyascarcity:butinallthefertileprovincesadjacenttotheSettiteandtheupperportionoftheAtbara,theperiodicalrainscanbeabsolutelydependedupon,fromJunetothemiddleofSeptember。thus,theyarepeculiarlyadaptedforcotton,asadryseasonisinsuredforgatheringthecrop。Asweadvancetothenorth,andreachAbouHarraz,weleavetherainyzone。WhenwehadleftGallabat,thegrasshadsprungseveralinches,owingtotherecentshowers。butaswehadproceededrapidlytowardsthenorth,wehadentereduponvastdustyplainsdevoidofagreenblade。therainyseasonbetweenAbouHarrazandKhartoumconsistedofmereoccasionalstorms,that,descendingwithgreatviolence,quicklypassedaway。NothingwouldbemoresimplethantoformasuccessionofweirsacrosstheRahadandDinder,thatwouldenabletheentirecountrytobeirrigatedatanyseasonoftheyear,butthereisnotanengineeringworkofanydescriptionthroughoutUpperEgypt,beyondthesageerorwater-wheeloftheNile。OppositeAbouHarraz,theBlueNilewasagrandriver,aboutfivehundredyardsinwidth。thebanksuponthenorthsideweretheusualperpendicularcliffsofalluvialsoil,butperfectlybareoftrees。while,onthesouth,thebankswereornamentedwithnabbukbushesandbeautifulpalms。ThelatterareapeculiarspeciesknownbytheArabsas"dolape"
  BorassusAEthiopicus:thestemislong,andofconsiderablethickness,butinaboutthecentreofitslengthitswellstonearlyhalfitsdiameterinexcess,andafterafewfeetofextrathicknessitcontinuesitsoriginalsizetothesummit,whichiscrownedbyahandsomecrestofleavesshapedlikethoseofthepalmyra。Thefruitofthispalmisaboutthesizeofacocoa-nut,andwhenripeitisofabrightyellow,withanexceedinglyrichperfumeofapricots。itisverystringy,and,althougheatenbythenatives,itisbeyondtheteethofaEuropean。TheArabscutitintoslices,andboilitwithwateruntiltheyobtainastrongsyrup。SubsequentlyIfoundthispalmingreatquantitiesneartheequator。
  AtAbouHarrazIdischargedmycamels,andendeavouredtoengageaboattoconveyustoKhartoum,thustoavoidthedustyanduninterestingrideofupwardsofahundredmilesalongitsflatandmelancholybanks。buttherewasnotavesselofanykindtobeseenupontheriver,exceptonemiserable,dirtyaffair,forwhichtheownerdemandedfourteenhundredpiastresforapassage。
  Weaccordinglyprocuredcamels,andstarted,intendingtomarchasrapidlyaspossible。
  "June2,1862——WepackedthecamelsinthemorningandstartedthemofftoRufaar。Wefollowedat2。30P。M。asthenativesdeclareditwashalfaday'sjourney。butwedidnotarriveuntil8。30P。M。havingmarchedabouttwenty-onemiles。Thetownisconsiderable,andisthehead-quartersofouroldfriend,thegreatSheikAchmetAbouSinn。heisnowabsent,buthissonAliisathome。Hereceivedusverykindly,andlodgedusinhisownhousewithinalargeinclosedcourt,withawellofgoodwaterinthecentre。Havingreadmyfirman,bepaidustheusualcompliments,buthelackedthecalmdignityandeaseofmannerofhisgrandoldfather。Hesatstifflyuponthedivan,occasionallyrelievingthemonotonyofhispositionbyliftingupthecoverofthecushions,andspittingbeneathit。Nothavingahandkerchief,butonlythelimitednaturaladvantagesofafingerandthumb,acoldintheheadgavehimmuchtrouble,andunpleasantmarksuponthewallexhibitedhieroglyphicsofrecentdate,thatwereilladaptedtothereception-roomofanArabchieftain。Inaboutanhourhedeparted,andshortlyafter,adinneroffourdisheswasbrought。No。1wasanArabIrishstew,butalas!MINUSthepotatoes。itwasverygood,nevertheless,asthemuttonwasfat。
  No。2wasanArabstew,withnoIrishelement。itwasveryhotwithredpepper,andratherdry。No。3wasagoodquickfryofsmallpiecesofmuttoninbutterandgarlicverygood。andNo。
  4wasanexcellentdishoftheusualmelach,alreadydescribed。
  Thewindhadwithinthelastfewdayschangedtosouth,andwehadbeensubjectedtoduststormsandsuddenwhirlwindssimilartothosewehadexperiencedatthisseasonintheprecedingyear,whenabouttostartfromBerber。WeleftRufaar,andcontinuedourmarchalongthebanksoftheBlueNile,towardsKhartoum。Itwasintenselyhot。wheneverwefeltabreezeitwasaccompaniedwithasuffocatingdust,butthesightofthebroadriverwascoolandrefreshing。DuringthedryseasonthewateroftheBlueNileisclear,asitsbroadsurfacereflectsthecolourofthebluesky。hencetheappellation,butatthattimeitwasextremelyshallow,andinmanyplacesitisfordableatadepthofaboutthreefeet,whichrendersitunnavigableforlargeboats,which,ladenwithcorn,supplyKhartoumfromthefertileprovincesofthesouth。Theriverhadnowbeguntorise,althoughitwasstilllow,andthewaterwasmuddy,astheswellingtorrentsofAbyssiniabroughtimpuritiesintothemainchannel。
  Itwasatthissametimelastyear,whenatBerber,thatwehadnoticedthesuddenincreaseandequallysuddenfalloftheNile,thatwasinfluencedbythefluctuationsoftheBlueNile,atatimewhentheAtbarawasdry。
  FromAbouHarrazthroughouttheroutetoKhartoumthereisnoobjectofinterest。itisthesamevastflat,decreasingrapidlyinfertilityuntilitmingleswiththedesert。andoncemore,aswejourneytothenorth,weleavethefertilelandsbehind,andenteruponsterility。Theglareofbarrenplainsandtheheatofthesummer'ssunwerefearful。Bacheethadaslightcoupdesoleil。myTokrooris,whosewoollyheadswereshaved,andsimplycoveredwithathinskull-cap,sufferedseverely,aswemarchedthroughouttheburninghoursoftheday。TheArabsweregenerallyveryinhospitable,asthiswastheroutefrequentedbyallnativemerchants,wherestrangerswereofdailyoccurrence。buttowardseveningwearrivedatavillageinhabitedbyalargebodyofFakeers,orpriests。Asweentered,weweremetbytheprincipalFaky,whoreceiveduswithmarkedattention,andwithacharmingcourtesyofmannerthatquitewonourhearts。heexpressedhimselfasdelightedatourarrival,hopedwewerenotfatiguedbytheheat,andtrustedthatwewouldrestforafewminutesbeforewedepartedtotheenchantingvillage"justbeyondthosetrees,"ashepointedtoaclumpofgreennabbukontheyellowplain,aboutamiledistant。there,heassuredus,wecouldobtainallkindsofsupplies,togetherwithshade,andalovelyviewoftheriver。WeweredelightedwiththisverygentlemanlyFaky,and,sayingadieuwithregret,wehurriedontothepromisedvillage"justbeyondthosetrees。"
  Forfourteenmileswetravelled,hungryandtired,beyondthealluringclumpoftrees,alongthewilddesertofhotsandwithoutahabitation。theonlyportionoftruthintheFaky'sdescriptionwasthe"lovelyviewoftheriver,"thatcertainlyaccompaniedusthroughoutourjourney。Wewereregularly"sold"
  bythecunningFaky,who,notwishingtobeincommodedbyourparty,hadgotridofusinamostgentlemanlymanner。Atlengthwearrivedatavillage,wherewehadmuchdifficultyinprocuringprovisionsforourselvesandpeople。
  Onthe11thJune,havingsleptatthevillageofAbouDome,westartedatsunrise,andat9A。M。wereachedthebankoftheriver,oppositetoKhartoum。Weweredelightedwiththeview,asthemorningsunshoneuponthecapitaloftheSoudanprovinces。
  thegroveofdatetreesshadedthenumerousbuildings,theirdarkgreenfoliagecontrastingexquisitelywiththemanycolouredhousesontheextrememarginofthebeautifulriver。longlinesofvesselsandmastsgavelifetothescene,andwefeltthatoncemore,aftertwelvemonthsofutterlywildlife,wehadarrivedincivilization。Wehadoutriddenourcamels,thereforewerodethroughashallowarmoftheriver,andarriveduponanextensivesandbankthathadbeenconvertedintoagardenofmelons。fromthispointalargeferry-boatpliedregularlytothetownonthesouthbank。Inafewminuteswefoundourselvesonboard,withoursoleremaininghorse,Tetel,alsothedonkeysthatwehadpurchasedinBerberbeforeourexpedition,andourattendants。Aswegainedthecentreoftheriver,thatwasabout800yardsbroad,weweregreetedbythesnortofthreeofouroldfriends,thehippopotami,whohadbeenattractedtotheneighbourhoodbythegardenofwater-melons。WelandedatKhartoum,and,havingclimbedupthesteepbank,weinquiredthewaytotheBritishConsulate。
  ThedifferencebetweentheviewofKhartoumatthedistanceofamile,withthesunshininguponthebrightriverNileintheforeground,totheappearanceofthetownuponcloseinspection,wasaboutequaltothesceneryofatheatreasregardedfromtheboxesorfromthestage。eventhatpainfulexposureofanopticalillusionwouldbetriflingcomparedwiththeimpostureofKhartoum。thesenseofsighthadbeendeceivedbydistance,butthesenseofsmellwasoutragedbyinnumerablenuisances,whenwesetfootwithinthefilthyandmiserabletown。Afterwindingthroughsomenarrowdustylanes,hemmedinbyhighwallsofsun-bakedbricks,thathadfalleningapsinseveralplaces,exposinggardensofpricklypearsanddatepalms,weatlengtharrivedatalargeopenplace,that,ifpossible,smeltmorestronglythanthelandingspot。Aroundthissquare,whichwasfullofholeswherethemudhadbeenexcavatedforbrickmaking,werethebetterclassofhouses。thiswastheBelgraviaofKhartoum。Inthecentreofalongmudwall,ventilatedbycertainattemptsatframelesswindows,guardedbyroughwoodenbars,weperceivedalargearchwaywithcloseddoors。abovethisentrancewasashield,withadevicethatgladdenedmyEnglisheyes:therewastheBritishlionandtheunicorn!NotsuchalionasIhadbeenaccustomedtomeetinhisnativejungles,ayellowcowardlyfellow,thathadoftenslunkawayfromtheverypreyfromwhichIhaddrivenhim,butarealredBritishlion,that,althoughthinandraggedintheunhealthyclimateofKhartoum,lookedasthoughhewasplucktothebackbone。
  ThiswastheEnglishConsulate。Iregardedourlionandunicornforafewmomentswithfeelingsofveneration。andasMr。
  Petherick,theconsul,whowasthenabsentontheWhiteNileinsearchofSpekeandGrant,hadverykindlybeggedmetooccupysomeroomsintheConsulate,weenteredalargecourtyard,andwereimmediatelyreceivedbytwoostrichesthatcametomeetus。
  thesebirdsentertainedusbyanimprompturaceashardastheycouldgoroundthecourtyard,asthoughperforminginacircus。
  Whenthislittledivertissementwasfinished,weturnedtotheright,andwereshownbyaservantupaflightofstepsintoalargeairyroomthatwastobeourresidence,which,beingwellprotectedfromthesun,wascoolandagreeable。Mr。PetherickhadstartedfromKhartoumintheprecedingMarch,andhadexpectedtomeetSpekeandGrantintheupperportionoftheNileregions,ontheirroadfromZanzibar。butthereareinsurmountabledifficultiesinthosewildcountries,andhisexpeditionmetwithunforeseenaccidents,that,inspiteoftheexertionsofbothhimself,hisverydevotedwife,Dr。Murie,andtwoorthreeEuropeans,drovethemfromtheirintendedpath。ShortlyafterourarrivalattheConsulate,avesselreturnedfromhispartywithunfavourableaccounts。theyhadstartedtoolateintheseason,owingtosomedifficultiesinprocuringboats,andthechangeofwindtothesouth,withviolentrain,hadcausedgreatsuffering,andhadretardedtheirprogress。ThissameboathadbroughttwoleopardsthatweretobesenttoEngland:theseanimalswereledintothecourtyard,and,havingbeensecuredbychains,theyformedavaluableadditiontothemenagerie,whichconsistedoftwowildboars,twoleopards,onehyaena,twoostriches,andacynocephalusordog-facedbaboon,whowonmyheartbytakinganespecialfancytome,becauseIhadabeardlikehismaster。
  AlthoughItakeagreatinterestinwildanimals,IconfesstohaveanobjectiontosleepintheZoologicalGardensshouldallthewildbeastsbeturnedloose。IdonotbelievethateventheSecretaryofthatlearnedSocietywouldvolunteertosleepwiththelions。butastheleopardsattheKhartoumConsulateconstantlybroketheirchains,andattackedthedogsandacow,andasthehyaenaoccasionallygotloose,andthewildboarsdestroyedtheirmudwall,andnearlykilledoneofmyTokroorisduringthenight,bycarvinghimlikeascoredlegofporkwiththeirtusks,thefactofsleepingintheopenairintheverandah,withthesimpleprotectionofamosquito-netting,wasfullofpleasantexcitement,andwasapiquanteentertainmentthatpreventedareactionofennuiaftertwelvemonthspassedinconstantwatchfulness。TheshieldovertheConsulatedoor,withthelionandtheunicorn,wasbutasignofthelifewithin。asthegrandpictureoutsidetheshowman'swagonmayexemplifythenatureofhisexhibition。Ienjoyedmyselfextremelywiththesecreatures,especiallywhentheostrichesinvitedthemselvestotea,andswallowedourslicesofwater-melonsandthegreaterportionofthebreadfromthetableafewmomentsbeforewewereseated。Thesebirdsappearedtoenjoylifeamazingly。onekindoffoodwasassweetasanother。theyattackedabasketofwhiteporcelainbeadsthathadbeenreturnedbyMr。Petherick'smen,andswallowedthemingreatnumbersinmistakefordhurra,untiltheyweredrivenoff。theywerethescavengersofthecourtyard,thatconsumedthedungofthecamelsandhorses,togetherwithallotherimpurities。
  ForsomemonthsweresidedatKhartoum,asitwasnecessarytomakeextensivepreparationsfortheWhiteNileexpedition,andtoawaitthearrivalofthenorthwind,whichwouldenableustostartearlyinDecember。Althoughthenorthandsouthwindsblowalternatelyforsixmonths,andtheformercommencesinOctober,itdoesnotextendmanydegreessouthwarduntilthebeginningofDecember。ThisisagreatdrawbacktoWhiteNileexploration,aswhennearthenorthsideoftheequator,thedryseasoncommencesinNovember,andclosesinFebruary。thus,thedeparturefromKhartoumshouldtakeplacebyasteamerinthelatterpartofSeptember。thatwouldenablethetravellertoleaveGondokoro,lat。N。4degrees54minutes,shortlybeforeNovember。hewouldthensecurethreemonthsoffavourableweatherforanadvanceinland。
  HavingpromisedMekNimmurthatIwouldlayhisproposalsforpeacebeforetheGovernor-GeneraloftheSoudan,IcalleduponMoosaPashaatthepublicdivan,anddeliveredthemessage。buthewouldnotlistentoanyintercession,asheassuredmethatMekNimmurwasincorrigible,andtherewouldbenorealpeaceuntilhisdeath,whichwouldbeveryspeedyshouldhechancetofallintohishands。Heexpressedgreatsurpriseatourhavingescapedfromhisterritory,andhedeclaredhisintentionofattackinghimafterheshouldhavegiventheAbyssiniansalesson,forwhomhewaspreparinganexpeditioninreplytoaninsolentletterthathehadreceivedfromKingTheodore。TheKingofAbyssiniahadwrittentohimuponaquestionoffrontier。ThesubstanceofthedocumentwasadeclarationthattheEgyptianshadnorighttoKhartoum,andthatthenaturalboundaryofAbyssiniawasthejunctionoftheBlueandWhiteNilesasfarnorthasShendyMekNimmur'soriginalcountry。andfromthatpoint,inadirectline,totheAtbara。butthat,asthedesertaffordednolandmark,heshouldsendhispeopletodigaditchfromtheNiletotheAtbara,andherequestedthattheEgyptianswouldkeepuponthenorthborder。MoosaPashadeclaredthatthekingwasmad,andthat,wereitnotfortheprotectiongiventoAbyssiniabytheEnglish,theEgyptianswouldhaveeatenituplongago,butthattheChristianpowerswouldcertainlyinterfereshouldtheyattempttoannexthecountry。
  TheEgyptiansseldomhadlessthantwentythousandtroopsintheSoudanprovinces。theprincipalstationswereKhartoum,Cassala,andDongola。CassalawasclosetotheAbyssinianfrontier,andwithinfromfifteentotwentydays'marchofSouakim,ontheRedSea,towhichreinforcementscouldbedespatchedinfivedaysfromCairo。KhartoumhadtheadvantageoftheBlueNile,thatwasnavigableforsteamersandsailingvesselsasfarsouthasFazogle,fromwhichspot,aswellasfromGallabat,Abyssiniacouldbeinvaded。whileswarmsofArabs,includingthecelebratedHamrans,theBeniAmer,Hallongas,Hadendowas,Shookeriahs,andDabainas,couldbeslippedlikegreyhoundsacrossthefrontier。
  AbyssiniaisentirelyatthemercyofEgypt。
  MoosaPashasubsequentlystartedwithseveralthousandmentodrivetheAbyssiniansfromGallabat,whichpositiontheyhadoccupiedinforcewiththeavowedintentionofmarchinguponKhartoum。butupontheapproachoftheEgyptianstheyfellbackrapidlyacrossthemountains,withoutasignofshowingfight。
  TheEgyptianswouldnotfollowthem,astheyfearedtheinterventionoftheEuropeanpowers。
  UponourfirstarrivalinKhartoum,from11thJuneuntilearlyinOctober,theheatwasveryoppressive,thethermometerseldombelow95degreesFahr。intheshade,andfrequently100degrees,whilethenightswere82degreesFahr。Inthewinter,thetemperaturewasagreeable,theshade80degrees,thenight62
  degreesFahr。Butthechillinessofthenorthwindwasexceedinglydangerous,asthesuddengustscheckedtheperspiration,andproducedvariousmaladies,moreespeciallyfever。Ihadbeenextremelyfortunate,as,althoughexposedtohardworkformorethanayearintheburningsun,Ihadremarkablygoodhealth,ashadmywifelikewise,withtheexceptionofonesevereattackwhileatSofi。Throughoutthecountrieswehadvisited,thetemperaturewashigh,averagingabout90degreesintheshadefromMayuntiltheendofSeptember。butthenightsweregenerallyabout70degrees,withtheexceptionofthewintermonths,fromNovemberuntilFebruary,whenthethermometergenerallyfellto85degreesFahr。intheday,andsometimesaslowas58degreesatbetween2and5A。M。
  IshallnotrepeataminutedescriptionofKhartoumthathasalreadybeengiveninthe"AlbertN'yanza。"itisawretchedlyunhealthytown,containingaboutthirtythousandinhabitants,exclusiveoftroops。Inspiteofitsunhealthinessandlowsituation,onalevelwiththeriveratthejunctionoftheBlueandWhiteNiles,itisthegeneralemporiumforthetradeoftheSoudan,fromwhichtheproductionsofthecountryaretransportedtoLowerEgypt,i。e。ivory,hides,senna,gumarabic,andbees'-wax。DuringmyexperienceofKhartoumitwasthehotbedoftheslave-trade。ItwillberemarkedthattheexportsfromtheSoudanareallnaturalproductions。Thereisnothingtoexhibittheindustryorcapacityofthenatives。theivoryistheproduceofviolenceandrobbery。thehidesarethesimplesun-driedskinsofoxen。thesennagrowswilduponthedesert。thegumarabicexudesspontaneouslyfromthebushesofthejungle。andthebees'-waxistheproduceoftheonlyindustriouscreaturesinthatdetestablecountry。
  WhenweregardthegeneralaspectoftheSoudan,itisextremewretchedness。therainfallisuncertainandscanty,thusthecountryisadesert,dependententirelyuponirrigation。Althoughcultivationissimplyimpossiblewithoutasupplyofwater,oneofthemostoneroustaxesisthatuponthesageerorwater-wheel,withwhichthefieldsareirrigatedonthebordersoftheNile。
  Itwouldappearnaturalthat,insteadofatax,apremiumshouldbeofferedfortheerectionofsuchmeansofirrigation,whichwouldincreasetherevenuebyextendingcultivation,theproduceofwhichmightbearanimpost。WithallthetalentandindustryofthenativeEgyptians,whomustnaturallydependuponthewatersoftheNilefortheirexistence,itisextraordinarythatforthousandsofyearstheyhaveadheredtotheiroriginalsimpleformofmechanicalirrigation,withoutimprovement。
  Ifanyonewilltakethetroubletowatchtheactionofthesageerorwater-wheel,itmuststrikehimasamostpunyefforttoobtainagreatresult,thatwouldatoncesuggestanextensionoftheprinciple。Thesageerismerelyawheelofabouttwentyfeetdiameter,whichisfurnishedwithnumerousearthenwarejarsuponitsexteriorcircumference,thatuponrevolvingperformtheactionofadredger,butdrawtothesurfacewaterinsteadofmud。Thewheel,beingturnedbyoxen,deliversthewaterintoatroughwhichpassesintoareservoir,roughlyfashionedwithclay,fromwhich,smallchannelsofaboutteninchesinwidthradiatethroughtheplantation。Thefields,dividedintosquareslikeachess-board,arethusirrigatedbyasuccessionofminuteaqueducts。Therootofthisprincipleisthereservoir。Acertainsteadyvolumeofwaterisrequired,fromwhichthearteriesshallflowthroughoutalargeareaofdryground。thus,thereservoirinsuresaregularsupplytoeachseparatechannel。
  Inanycivilizedcountry,theexistenceofwhichdependedupontheartificialsupplyofwaterintheabsenceofrain,thefirstengineeringprinciplewouldsuggestasavingoflabourinirrigation:that,insteadofraisingthewaterinsmallquantitiesintoreservoirs,therivershouldraiseitsownwaterstotherequiredlevel。
  HavingvisitedeverytributaryoftheNileduringtheexplorationsofnearlyfiveyears,Ihavebeenstruckwiththeextraordinaryfactthat,althoughanenormousamountofwealthisconveyedtoEgyptbytheannualinundationsoftheriver,theforceofthestreamisentirelyuncontrolled。Fromtimeimmemorial,theriseoftheNilehasbeenwatchedwithintenseinterestattheusualseason,butnoattempthasbeenmadetoinsureasupplyofwatertoEgyptduringallseasons。
  ThemysteryoftheNilehasbeendispelled。wehaveprovedthattheequatoriallakessupplythemainstream,butthattheinundationsarecausedbythesuddenrushofwatersfromthetorrentsofAbyssiniainJuly,August,andSeptember。andthatthesoilwasheddownbythefloodsoftheAtbaraisatthepresentmomentsiltingupthemouthsoftheNile,andthusslowly,butsteadily,formingadeltabeneaththewatersoftheMediterranean,onthesameprinciplethatcreatedthefertileDeltaofEgypt。BoththewaterandthemudoftheNilehavedutiestoperform,——thewatertoirrigate。thedeposittofertilize。butthesedutiesarenotregularlyperformed:
  sometimestherushoftheinundationisoverwhelming,atothersitisinsufficient。whileatalltimesanimmenseproportionofthefertilizingmudisnotonlywastedbyadepositbeneaththesea,butnavigationisimpededbythesilt。TheNileisapowerfulhorsewithoutharness,but,withabridleinitsmouth,thefertilityofEgyptmightbeincreasedtoavastextent。
  Asthesupplyofwaterraisedbythesageerisreceivedinareservoir,fromwhichtheirrigatingchannelsradiatethroughtheplantations,soshouldgreatreservoirsbeformedthroughoutthevaryinglevelsofEgypt,fromKhartoumtotheMediterranean,comprisingadistanceofsixteendegreesoflatitude,withafalloffifteenhundredfeet。TheadvantageofthisgreatdifferenceinaltitudebetweentheNileinlatitude15degrees30minutesandthesea,wouldenableanyamountofirrigation,bytheestablishmentofaseriesofdamsorweirsacrosstheNile,thatwouldraiseitsleveltotherequireddegree,atcertainpoints,fromwhichthewaterwouldbeledbycanalsintonaturaldepressions。thesewouldformreservoirs,fromwhichthewatermightbeleduponavastscale,inasimilarmannertotheinsignificantmudbasinsthatatthepresentdayformthereservoirsforthefeeblewater-wheels。Theincreaseoftheriver'slevelwoulddependupontheheightofthedams。but,asstoneisplentifulthroughouttheNile,theengineeringdifficultieswouldbetrifling。
  MehemetAliPashaacknowledgedtheprinciple,bytheerectionofthebarragebetweenCairoandAlexandria,which,bysimplyraisingtheleveloftheriver,enabledthepeopletoextendtheirchannelsforirrigation。butthiswasthecrudeidea,thathasnotbeencarriedoutuponascalecommensuratewiththerequirementsofEgypt。TheancientEgyptiansmadeuseofthelakeMareotisasareservoirfortheNilewatersfortheirrigationofalargeextentofLowerEgypt,bytakingadvantageofahighNiletosecureasupplyfortheremainderoftheyear。but,greatasweretheworksofthoseindustriouspeople,theyappeartohaveignoredthefirstprincipleofirrigation,byneglectingtoraisetheleveloftheriver。
  EgyptremainsinthesamepositionthatNatureoriginallyallottedtoher。thelife-givingstreamthatflowsthroughathousandmilesofburningsandssuddenlyrisesinJuly,andfloodstheDeltawhichithasformedbyadeposit,duringperhapshundredsofthousandsofinundations。anditwastesasuperabundanceoffertilizingmudinthewatersoftheMediterranean。AsNaturehasthusformed,andisstillformingadelta,whyshouldnotSciencecreateadelta,withthepowerfulmeansatourdisposal?WhyshouldnotthemudoftheNilethatnowsiltsuptheMediterraneanbedirectedtothebarrenbutvastareaofdeserts,thatbysuchadepositwouldbecomeafertileportionofEgypt?Thisworkmightbeaccomplishedbysimplemeans:thewatersoftheNile,thatnowrushimpetuouslyatcertainseasonswithoverwhelmingviolence,whileatotherseasonstheyareexhausted,mightbesocontrolledthattheyshouldneverbeinexcess,neitherwouldtheybereducedtoaminimuminthedryseason。buttheenormousvolumeofwaterheavilychargedwithsoil,thatnowrushesuselesslyintothesea,mightbeledthroughoutthedesertsofNubiaandLibya,totransformthemintocottonfieldsthatwouldrenderEnglandindependentofAmerica。Thereisnofictioninthisidea。itismerelythesimpleandcommonplacefact,thatwithafalloffifteenhundredfeetinathousandmiles,withariverthatsuppliesanunlimitedquantityofwaterandmudataparticularseason,asupplycouldbeaffordedtoaprodigiousarea,thatwouldbefertilizednotonlybyirrigation,butbytheannualdepositofsoilfromthewater,allowedtoremainuponthesurface。Thissuggestionmightbecarriedoutbygradations。thegreatworkmightbecommencedbyasingledamabovethefirstcataractatAssouan,ataspotwheretheriveriswalledinbygranitehills。atthatplace,thewatercouldberaisedtoanexceedinglyhighlevel,thatwouldcommandanimmensetractofcountry。Asthesystembecamedeveloped,similardamsmightbeconstructedatconvenientintervalsthatwouldnotonlybringintocultivationtheneighbouringdeserts,butwouldfacilitatethenavigationoftheriver,thatisnowimpeded,andfrequentlyclosed,bythenumerouscataracts。ByraisingtheleveloftheNilesixtyfeetateverydam,thecataractswouldnolongerexist,astherockswhichatpresentformtheobstructionswouldbeburiedinthedepthsoftheriver。Atthepositionsoftheseveraldams,sluicegatesandcanalswouldconducttheshippingeitherupordownthestream。Werethisprinciplecarriedoutasfarasthelastcataracts,nearKhartoum,theSoudanwouldnolongerremainadesert。theNilewouldbecomenotonlythecultivatorofthoseimmensetractsthatarenowutterlyworthless,butitwouldbethenavigablechannelofEgyptfortheextraordinarydistanceoftwenty-sevendegreesoflatitude——directfromtheMediterraneantoGondokoro,N。lat。4
  degrees54minutes。
  Thebenefits,notonlytoEgypt,buttocivilization,wouldbeincalculable。thoseremotecountriesintheinteriorofAfricaaresodifficultofaccess,that,althoughweclingtothehopethatatsomefuturetimetheinhabitantsmaybecomeenlightened,itwillbesimplyimpossibletoaltertheirpresentcondition,unlesswechangethenaturalconditionsunderwhichtheyexist。
  Fromacombinationofadversecircumstances,theyareexcludedfromthecivilizedworld:thegeographicalpositionofthosedesert-lockedandremotecountriesshutsthemoutfrompersonalcommunicationwithstrangers:thehardyexplorerandthemissionarycreepthroughthedifficultiesofdistanceintheironwardpaths,butseldomreturn:theEuropeanmerchantisrarelyseen,andtraderesolvesitselfintorobberyandpiracyupontheWhiteNile,andothercountries,wheredistanceanddifficultyofaccesshaveexcludedalllawsandpoliticalsurveillance。
  Nevertheless,throughoutthatdesert,andneglectedwilderness,theNilehasflowedforages,andthepeopleuponitsbanksareaswildanduncivilizedatthepresentdayastheywerewhenthePyramidswereraisedinLowerEgypt。TheNileisablessingonlyhalfappreciated。thetimewillarrivewhenpeoplewilllookinamazementuponamightyEgypt,whosewavingcropsshallextend,farbeyondthehorizon,uponthosesandyandthirstydesertswhereonlythecamelcancontendwithexhaustednature。Menwilllookdownfromsomeloftypointuponanetworkofcanalsandreservoirs,spreadingthroughoutalandteemingwithfertility,andwonderhowitwasthat,forsomanyages,themajestyoftheNilehadbeenconcealed。Notonlythesourcesofthatwonderfulriverhadbeenamysteryfromtheearliesthistoryoftheworld,buttheresourcesandthepowerofthemightyNilearestillmysteriousandmisunderstood。
  Inallrainlesscountries,artificialirrigationisthefirstlawofnature,itisself-preservation。but,evenincountrieswheretherainfallcanbedependeduponwithtolerablecertainty,irrigationshouldneverbeneglected。onedryseasoninatropicalcountrymayproduceafamine,theresultsofwhichmaybeterrible,asinstancedlatelybytheunfortunatecalamityinOrissa。TheremainsofthebeautifulsystemofartificialirrigationthatwasemployedbytheancientsinCeylon,attestthedegreeofcivilizationtowhichtheyhadattained。inthatislandthewatersofvariousriverswereconductedintovalleysthatwereconvertedintolakes,bydamsofsolidmasonrythatclosedtheextremity,fromwhichthewaterwasconductedbyartificialchannelsthroughouttheland。Inthosedays,CeylonwasthemostfertilecountryoftheEast。herpowerequalledherprosperity。vastcitiesteemingwithadensepopulationstooduponthebordersofthegreatreservoirs,andthepeoplerevelledinwealthandplenty。Thedamsweredestroyedincivilwarfare。
  thewonderfulworksofirrigationsharedinthedestruction。thecountrydriedup。famineswallowedupthepopulation。andthegrandeurandprosperityofthatextraordinarycountrycollapsedandwitheredinthescorchingsun,whenthesupplyofwaterwaswithdrawn。
  Atthepresentmoment,tenthousandsquaremilesliedesolateinthornyjungles,whereformerlyaseaofwavingrice-cropsfloatedonthesurface。thepeoplearedead,thegloryisdeparted。Thisgloryhadbeenthefruitofirrigation。Allthisprosperitymightberestored:butinEgypttherehasbeennoannihilationofapeople,andtheNileinvitesarenewalofthesystemformerlyadoptedinCeylon。thereisanindustriouspopulationcrowdeduponalimitedspaceoffertilesoil,andyearningforanincreaseofsurface。Atthecommencementofthiswork,wesawtheEgyptiansboatingtheearthfromthecrumblingruins,andtransportingitwitharduouslabourtospreaduponthebarrensandbanksoftheNile,leftbytheretreatingriver。theywerestrivingforeveryfootoflandthusofferedbytheexhaustedwaters,andturningintogardenswhatinothercountrieswouldhavebeenunworthyofcultivation。WereasystemofirrigationestablishedupontheprinciplethatIhaveproposed,theadvantageswouldbeenormous。ThesiltdepositedintheMediterranean,thatnowchokesthemouthsoftheNile,andblocksupharbours,wouldbeprecipitateduponthebroadareaofnewly-irrigatedlands,andbythetimethatthewaterarrivedatthesea,itwouldhavebeenfilteredinitspassage,andhavebecomeincapableofformingafreshdeposit。ThegreatdifficultyoftheSuezcanalwillbethesiltingupoftheentrancebytheNile。thiswouldbepreventedwerethemuddepositedintheuppercountry。
  DuringthecivilwarinAmerica,Egyptprovedhercapabilitiesbyproducingalargeamountofcottonofmostexcellentquality,thatassistedusmateriallyinthegreatdearthofthatarticle。
  but,althoughlargefortuneswererealizedbytheextensionofthisbranchofagriculture,theEgyptianssufferedconsiderablyinconsequence。Theareaoffertilesoilwastoolimited,and,asanunusualsurfacewasdevotedtothegrowthofcotton,therewasadeficiencyintheproductionofcorn。andEgypt,insteadofexportingasheretofore,wasforcedtoimportlargequantitiesofgrain。WeretheareaofEgyptincreasedtoavastextentbytheproposedsystemofirrigation,therewouldbespacesufficientforbothgrainandcottontoanyamountrequired。Thedesertsoil,thatisnowutterlyworthless,wouldbecomeofgreatvalue。
  andthetaxesupontheincreasedproducewouldnotonlycoverthefirstoutlayoftheirrigationworks,butwouldincreasetherevenueintheratioproportionatetotheincreasedsurfaceoffertility。AdamacrosstheAtbarawouldirrigatetheentirecountryfromGozerajuptoBerber,adistanceofupwardsof200
  miles。andthesamesystemupontheNilewouldcarrythewatersthroughoutthedesertsbetweenKhartoumandDongola,andfromthencetoLowerEgypt。TheNubiandesert,fromKoroskotoAbouHamed,wouldbecomeagarden,thewholeofthatsterilecountryinclosedwithinthegreatwesternbendoftheNiletowardsDongolawouldbeembracedinthesystemofirrigation,andthebarrensandsthatnowgivebirthtothebittermelonofthedesertCucumiscolocynthis,wouldbringforththewater-melon,andheavycropsofgrain。*ThegreatSaharaisdesert,simplybecauseitreceivesnorainfall:giveitonlywater,andthesandwillcombinewiththerichersoilbeneath,andbecomeproductive。
  Englandwouldbecomeadesert,coulditbedeprivedofrainforthreeorfouryears。thevegetationwouldwitherandbecarriedawaybythewind,togetherwiththelighterandmorefriableportionsofthesoil,which,reducedtodust,wouldleavethecoarserandmoresandyparticlesexposeduponthesurface。buttherenewalofrainwouldrevivifythecountry。ThedesertsofEgypthaveneverknownrain,exceptintheformofanunexpectedshower,thathaspassedawayassuddenlyasitarrived。eventhatslightblessingawakensever-readyNature,andgreenthingsappearupontheyellowsurfaceoftheground,thatcausethetravellertowonderhowtheirseedscouldgerminateaftertheexposureforsomanymonthsintheburningsand。Givewatertothesethirstydeserts,andtheywillreplywithgratitude。
  *ThegreatdesertsofNorthernAfrica,toaboutthe170N。lat。,aresupposedtohaveformedthebottomoftheMediterranean,buttohavebeenupheavedtotheirpresentlevel。ThevolcanicbombsdiscoveredintheNubianDesertsuggest,bytheirsphericalform,thatthemoltenlavaejectedbyactivevolcanoeshadfallenfromagreatheightintowater,thathadrapidlycooledthem,inthesamemannerthatleadshotismanufacturedatthepresentday。ItisthereforehighlyprobablethattheextinctcratersnowinexistenceintheNubianDesertwereactiveataperiodwhentheyformedvolcanicislandsinasea——similartoStromboli,&c。&c。
  Thisisthewaytocivilizeacountry:theengineerwillalterthehardconditionsofnature,thathaverenderedmanasbarrenofgoodworksasthesterilesoiluponwhichhelives。Letmanhavehope。improvethepresent,thathismindmaylookforwardtoafuture。givehimahorsethatwillanswertothespur,ifheistorunintheraceoflife。givehimasoilthatwillyieldandtempthimtoindustry。givehimthemeansofcommunicationwithhisfellow-men,thathemayseehisowninferioritybycomparison。providechannelsforthetransportofhisproduce,andforthereceiptofforeignmanufactures,thatwillengendercommerce:andthen,whenhehasadvancedsofarinthescaleofhumanity,youmayendeavourtoteachhimtheprinciplesofChristianity。Then,andnottillthen,canwehopeformoralprogress。Wemustbeginwiththedevelopmentofthephysicalcapabilitiesofacountrybeforewecanexpectfromitsinhabitantssufficientmentalvigourtoreceiveandunderstandthetruthsofourreligion。IhavemetwithmanyChristianmissionaries,ofvariousandconflictingcreeds,whohavefruitlesslysowntheseedofChristianityuponthebarrensoilofAfrica。buttheirlabourswereill-timed,theyweretooearlyinthefield,thesoilisunprepared。themissionary,howeverearnest,mustwaituntiltherebesomefoundationforasuperstructure。Raisethelevelofthewaters,andchangethecharacterofthesurroundingdeserts:thiswillalsoraisetheintellectualconditionoftheinhabitantsbyanimprovementinthenaturalconditionsoftheircountry……
  Thefirstportionofourtaskwascompleted。WehadvisitedalltheNiletributariesofAbyssinia,includingthegreatBlueNilethathadbeentracedtoitssourcebyBruce。Thedifficulttaskstilllaybeforeus——topenetratetheunknownregionsinthedistantsouth,todiscovertheWhiteNilesource。*SpekeandGrantwereontheirroadfromZanzibar,cuttingtheirwayuponuntroddengroundtowardsGondokoro。Petherick'sexpeditiontoassistthemhadmetwithmisfortune,andwetrustedtobeabletoreachtheequator,andperhapstomeetourZanzibarexplorerssomewhereaboutthesourcesoftheNile。Althoughwehadworkedhardthroughoutallseasons,overanimmenseextentofcountry,wewerebothstrongandwell,andtherestofsomemonthsatKhartoumhadonlyservedtoinspireuswithnewvigourforthecommencementoftheworkbeforeus。Bythe17thDecember,1862,ourpreparationswerecompleted。threevesselswereladenwithlargequantitiesofstores——400bushelsofcorn,twenty-ninetransportanimals,includingcamels,donkeys,andhorsesamongthelatterwasmyoldhunterTetel。Ninety-sixsoulsformedmywholeparty,includingfortywell-armedmen,withJohannSchmidtandRicharn。Onthe18thDecemberwesailedfromKhartoumupontheWhiteNiletowardsitsunknownsources,andbadefarewelltothelastvestigeoflaw,government,andcivilization。Ifindinmyjournal,thelastwordswrittenatourdepartureuponthisuncertaintask,"Godgrantussuccess。ifHeguides,Ihavenofear。"
  *TheaccountoftheWhiteNilevoyage,withthehappymeetingofcaptainsSpekeandGrant,andthesubsequentdiscoveryofthe"AlbertN'yanza,"hasbeenalreadygivenintheworkofthattitle。
  TheEnd