tops，ofscatteredcabins；childrenrunningtothedoors；dogsburstingouttobark，whomwecouldseewithouthearing:terrifiedpigsscamperinghomewards；familiessittingoutintheirrudegardens；cowsgazingupwardwithastupidindifference；menintheirshirt-sleeveslookingonattheirunfinishedhouses，planningoutto-morrow'swork；andweridingonward，highabovethem，likeawhirlwind。Itwasamusing，too，whenwehaddined，andrattleddownasteeppass，havingnoothermovingpowerthantheweightofthecarriagesthemselves，toseetheenginereleased，longafterus，comebuzzingdownalone，likeagreatinsect，itsbackofgreenandgoldsoshininginthesun，thatifithadspreadapairofwingsandsoaredaway，noonewouldhavehadoccasion，asI
　　fancied，fortheleastsurprise。Butitstoppedshortofusinaverybusiness-likemannerwhenwereachedthecanal:and，beforeweleftthewharf，wentpantingupthishillagain，withthepassengerswhohadwaitedourarrivalforthemeansoftraversingtheroadbywhichwehadcome。
　　OntheMondayevening，furnacefiresandclankinghammersonthebanksofthecanal，warnedusthatweapproachedtheterminationofthispartofourjourney。Aftergoingthroughanotherdreamyplace-alongaqueductacrosstheAlleghanyRiver，whichwasstrangerthanthebridgeatHarrisburg，beingavast，low，woodenchamberfullofwater-weemergeduponthatuglyconfusionofbacksofbuildingsandcrazygalleriesandstairs，whichalwaysabutsonwater，whetheritberiver，sea，canal，orditch:andwereatPittsburg。
　　PittsburgislikeBirminghaminEngland；atleastitstownspeoplesayso。Settingasidethestreets，theshops，thehouses，waggons，factories，publicbuildings，andpopulation，perhapsitmaybe。Itcertainlyhasagreatquantityofsmokehangingaboutit，andisfamousforitsiron-works。BesidestheprisontowhichIhavealreadyreferred，thistowncontainsaprettyarsenalandotherinstitutions。ItisverybeautifullysituatedontheAlleghanyRiver，overwhichtherearetwobridges；andthevillasofthewealthiercitizenssprinkledaboutthehighgroundsintheneighbourhood，areprettyenough。Welodgedatamostexcellenthotel，andwereadmirablyserved。Asusualitwasfullofboarders，wasverylarge，andhadabroadcolonnadetoeverystoryofthehouse。
　　Wetarriedherethreedays。OurnextpointwasCincinnati:andasthiswasasteamboatjourney，andwesternsteamboatsusuallyblowuponeortwoaweekintheseason，itwasadvisabletocollectopinionsinreferencetothecomparativesafetyofthevesselsboundthatway，thenlyingintheriver。OnecalledtheMessengerwasthebestrecommended。Shehadbeenadvertisedtostartpositively，everydayforafortnightorso，andhadnotgoneyet，nordidhercaptainseemtohaveanyveryfixedintentiononthesubject。Butthisisthecustom:forifthelawweretobinddownafreeandindependentcitizentokeephiswordwiththepublic，whatwouldbecomeofthelibertyofthesubject？Besides，itisinthewayoftrade。Andifpassengersbedecoyedinthewayoftrade，andpeoplebeinconveniencedinthewayoftrade，whatman，whoisasharptradesmanhimself，shallsay，'Wemustputastoptothis？'
　　Impressedbythedeepsolemnityofthepublicannouncement，I
　　beingthenignorantoftheseusageswasforhurryingonboardinabreathlessstate，immediately；butreceivingprivateandconfidentialinformationthattheboatwouldcertainlynotstartuntilFriday，ApriltheFirst，wemadeourselvesverycomfortableinthemeanwhile，andwentonboardatnoonthatday。
　　CHAPTERXI-FROMPITTSBURGTOCINCINNATIINAWESTERNSTEAMBOAT。
　　CINCINNATI
　　THEMessengerwasoneamongacrowdofhigh-pressuresteamboats，clusteredtogetherbyawharf-side，which，lookeddownuponfromtherisinggroundthatformsthelanding-place，andbackedbytheloftybankontheoppositesideoftheriver，appearednolargerthansomanyfloatingmodels。Shehadsomefortypassengersonboard，exclusiveofthepoorerpersonsonthelowerdeck；andinhalfanhour，orless，proceededonherway。
　　Wehad，forourselves，atinystate-roomwithtwoberthsinit，openingoutoftheladies'cabin。Therewas，undoubtedly，somethingsatisfactoryinthis'location，'inasmuchasitwasinthestern，andwehadbeenagreatmanytimesverygravelyrecommendedtokeepasfaraftaspossible，'becausethesteamboatsgenerallyblewupforward。'Norwasthisanunnecessarycaution，astheoccurrenceandcircumstancesofmorethanonesuchfatalityduringourstaysufficientlytestified。Apartfromthissourceofself-congratulation，itwasanunspeakablerelieftohaveanyplace，nomatterhowconfined，whereonecouldbealone:andastherowoflittlechambersofwhichthiswasone，hadeachasecondglass-doorbesidesthatintheladies'cabin，whichopenedonanarrowgalleryoutsidethevessel，wheretheotherpassengersseldomcame，andwhereonecouldsitinpeaceandgazeupontheshiftingprospect，wetookpossessionofournewquarterswithmuchpleasure。
　　IfthenativepacketsIhavealreadydescribedbeunlikeanythingweareinthehabitofseeingonwater，thesewesternvesselsarestillmoreforeigntoalltheideasweareaccustomedtoentertainofboats。Ihardlyknowwhattolikenthemto，orhowtodescribethem。
　　Inthefirstplace，theyhavenomast，cordage，tackle，rigging，orothersuchboat-likegear；norhavetheyanythingintheirshapeatallcalculatedtoremindoneofaboat'shead，stem，sides，orkeel。Exceptthattheyareinthewater，anddisplayacoupleofpaddle-boxes，theymightbeintended，foranythingthatappearstothecontrary，toperformsomeunknownservice，highanddry，uponamountaintop。Thereisnovisibledeck，even:nothingbutalong，black，uglyroofcoveredwithburnt-outfeatherysparks；abovewhichtowertwoironchimneys，andahoarseescapevalve，andaglasssteerage-house。Then，inorderastheeyedescendstowardsthewater，arethesides，anddoors，andwindowsofthestate-
　　rooms，jumbledasoddlytogetherasthoughtheyformedasmallstreet，builtbythevaryingtastesofadozenmen:thewholeissupportedonbeamsandpillarsrestingonadirtybarge，butafewinchesabovethewater'sedge:andinthenarrowspacebetweenthisupperstructureandthisbarge'sdeck，arethefurnacefiresandmachinery，openatthesidestoeverywindthatblows，andeverystormofrainitdrivesalongitspath。
　　Passingoneoftheseboatsatnight，andseeingthegreatbodyoffire，exposedasIhavejustdescribed，thatragesandroarsbeneaththefrailpileofpaintedwood:themachinery，notwardedofforguardedinanyway，butdoingitsworkinthemidstofthecrowdofidlersandemigrantsandchildren，whothrongthelowerdeck:underthemanagement，too，ofrecklessmenwhoseacquaintancewithitsmysteriesmayhavebeenofsixmonths'
　　standing:onefeelsdirectlythatthewonderis，notthatthereshouldbesomanyfatalaccidents，butthatanyjourneyshouldbesafelymade。
　　Within，thereisonelongnarrowcabin，thewholelengthoftheboat；fromwhichthestate-roomsopen，onbothsides。Asmallportionofitatthesternispartitionedofffortheladies；andthebarisattheoppositeextreme。Thereisalongtabledownthecentre，andateitherendastove。Thewashingapparatusisforward，onthedeck。Itisalittlebetterthanonboardthecanalboat，butnotmuch。Inallmodesoftravelling，theAmericancustoms，withreferencetothemeansofpersonalcleanlinessandwholesomeablution，areextremelynegligentandfilthy；andI
　　stronglyinclinetothebeliefthataconsiderableamountofillnessisreferabletothiscause。
　　WearetobeonboardtheMessengerthreedays:arrivingatCincinnatibarringaccidentsonMondaymorning。Therearethreemealsaday。Breakfastatseven，dinnerathalf-pasttwelve，supperaboutsix。Ateach，thereareagreatmanysmalldishesandplatesuponthetable，withverylittleinthem；sothatalthoughthereiseveryappearanceofamighty'spread，'thereisseldomreallymorethanajoint:exceptforthosewhofancyslicesofbeet-root，shredsofdriedbeef，complicatedentanglementsofyellowpickle；maize，Indiancorn，apple-sauce，andpumpkin。
　　Somepeoplefancyalltheselittledaintiestogetherandsweetpreservesbeside，bywayofrelishtotheirroastpig。Theyaregenerallythosedyspepticladiesandgentlemenwhoeatunheard-ofquantitiesofhotcornbreadalmostasgoodforthedigestionasakneadedpin-cushion，forbreakfast，andforsupper。Thosewhodonotobservethiscustom，andwhohelpthemselvesseveraltimesinstead，usuallysucktheirknivesandforksmeditatively，untiltheyhavedecidedwhattotakenext:thenpullthemoutoftheirmouths:puttheminthedish；helpthemselves；andfalltoworkagain。Atdinner，thereisnothingtodrinkuponthetable，butgreatjugsfullofcoldwater。Nobodysaysanything，atanymeal，toanybody。Allthepassengersareverydismal，andseemtohavetremendoussecretsweighingontheirminds。Thereisnoconversation，nolaughter，nocheerfulness，nosociality，exceptinspitting；andthatisdoneinsilentfellowshiproundthestove，whenthemealisover。Everymansitsdown，dullandlanguid；
　　swallowshisfareasifbreakfasts，dinners，andsuppers，werenecessitiesofnaturenevertobecoupledwithrecreationorenjoyment；andhavingboltedhisfoodinagloomysilence，boltshimself，inthesamestate。Butfortheseanimalobservances，youmightsupposethewholemaleportionofthecompanytobethemelancholyghostsofdepartedbook-keepers，whohadfallendeadatthedesk:suchistheirwearyairofbusinessandcalculation。
　　Undertakersondutywouldbesprightlybesidethem；andacollationoffuneral-bakedmeats，incomparisonwiththesemeals，wouldbeasparklingfestivity。
　　Thepeopleareallalike，too。Thereisnodiversityofcharacter。
　　Theytravelaboutonthesameerrands，sayanddothesamethingsinexactlythesamemanner，andfollowinthesamedullcheerlessround。Alldownthelongtable，thereisscarcelyamanwhoisinanythingdifferentfromhisneighbour。Itisquitearelieftohave，sittingopposite，thatlittlegirloffifteenwiththeloquaciouschin:who，todoherjustice，actsuptoit，andfullyidentifiesnature'shandwriting，forofallthesmallchatterboxesthateverinvadedthereposeofdrowsyladies'cabin，sheisthefirstandforemost。Thebeautifulgirl，whositsalittlebeyondher-fartherdownthetablethere-marriedtheyoungmanwiththedarkwhiskers，whositsbeyondHER，onlylastmonth。TheyaregoingtosettleintheveryFarWest，wherehehaslivedfouryears，butwhereshehasneverbeen。Theywerebothoverturnedinastage-coachtheotherdayabadomenanywhereelse，whereoverturnsarenotsocommon，andhishead，whichbearsthemarksofarecentwound，isboundupstill。Shewashurttoo，atthesametime，andlayinsensibleforsomedays；brightashereyesare，now。
　　Furtherdownstill，sitsamanwhoisgoingsomemilesbeyondtheirplaceofdestination，to'improve'anewly-discoveredcoppermine。
　　Hecarriesthevillage-thatistobe-withhim:afewframecottages，andanapparatusforsmeltingthecopper。Hecarriesitspeopletoo。TheyarepartlyAmericanandpartlyIrish，andherdtogetheronthelowerdeck；wheretheyamusedthemselveslasteveningtillthenightwasprettyfaradvanced，byalternatelyfiringoffpistolsandsinginghymns。
　　They，andtheveryfewwhohavebeenleftattabletwentyminutes，rise，andgoaway。Wedosotoo；andpassingthroughourlittlestate-room，resumeourseatsinthequietgallerywithout。
　　Afinebroadriveralways，butinsomepartsmuchwiderthaninothers:andthenthereisusuallyagreenisland，coveredwithtrees，dividingitintotwostreams。Occasionally，westopforafewminutes，maybetotakeinwood，maybeforpassengers，atsomesmalltownorvillageIoughttosaycity，everyplaceisacityhere；butthebanksareforthemostpartdeepsolitudes，overgrownwithtrees，which，hereabouts，arealreadyinleafandverygreen。Formiles，andmiles，andmiles，thesesolitudesareunbrokenbyanysignofhumanlifeortraceofhumanfootstep；norisanythingseentomoveaboutthembutthebluejay，whosecolourissobright，andyetsodelicate，thatitlookslikeaflyingflower。Atlengthenedintervalsalogcabin，withitslittlespaceofclearedlandaboutit，nestlesunderarisingground，andsendsitsthreadofbluesmokecurlingupintothesky。Itstandsinthecornerofthepoorfieldofwheat，whichisfullofgreatunsightlystumps，likeearthybutchers'-blocks。Sometimesthegroundisonlyjustnowcleared:thefelledtreeslyingyetuponthesoil:andthelog-houseonlythismorningbegun。Aswepassthisclearing，thesettlerleansuponhisaxeorhammer，andlookswistfullyatthepeoplefromtheworld。Thechildrencreepoutofthetemporaryhut，whichislikeagipsytentupontheground，andclaptheirhandsandshout。Thedogonlyglancesroundatus，andthenlooksupintohismaster'sfaceagain，asifhewererendereduneasybyanysuspensionofthecommonbusiness，andhadnothingmoretodowithpleasurers。Andstillthereisthesame，eternalforeground。
　　Theriverhaswashedawayitsbanks，andstatelytreeshavefallendownintothestream。Somehavebeentheresolong，thattheyaremeredry，grizzlyskeletons。Somehavejusttoppledover，andhavingearthyetabouttheirroots，arebathingtheirgreenheadsintheriver，andputtingforthnewshootsandbranches。Somearealmostslidingdown，asyoulookatthem。Andsomeweredrownedsolongago，thattheirbleachedarmsstartoutfromthemiddleofthecurrent，andseemtotrytograsptheboat，anddragitunderwater。
　　Throughsuchasceneasthis，theunwieldymachinetakesitshoarse，sullenway:venting，ateveryrevolutionofthepaddles，aloudhigh-pressureblast；enough，onewouldthink，towakenupthehostofIndianswholieburiedinagreatmoundyonder:soold，thatmightyoaksandotherforesttreeshavestrucktheirrootsintoitsearth；andsohigh，thatitisahill，evenamongthehillsthatNatureplantedroundit。Theveryriver，asthoughitsharedone'sfeelingsofcompassionfortheextincttribeswholivedsopleasantlyhere，intheirblessedignoranceofwhiteexistence，hundredsofyearsago，stealsoutofitswaytoripplenearthismound:andtherearefewplaceswheretheOhiosparklesmorebrightlythanintheBigGraveCreek。
　　AllthisIseeasIsitinthelittlestern-gallerymentionedjustnow。Eveningslowlystealsuponthelandscapeandchangesitbeforeme，whenwestoptosetsomeemigrantsashore。
　　Fivemen，asmanywomen，andalittlegirl。Alltheirworldlygoodsareabag，alargechestandanoldchair:one，old，high-
　　backed，rush-bottomedchair:asolitarysettlerinitself。Theyarerowedashoreintheboat，whilethevesselstandsalittleoffawaitingitsreturn，thewaterbeingshallow。Theyarelandedatthefootofahighbank，onthesummitofwhichareafewlogcabins，attainableonlybyalongwindingpath。Itisgrowingdusk；butthesunisveryred，andshinesinthewaterandonsomeofthetree-tops，likefire。
　　Themengetoutoftheboatfirst；helpoutthewomen；takeoutthebag，thechest，thechair；bidtherowers'good-bye；'andshovetheboatoffforthem。Atthefirstplashoftheoarsinthewater，theoldestwomanofthepartysitsdownintheoldchair，closetothewater'sedge，withoutspeakingaword。Noneoftheotherssitdown，thoughthechestislargeenoughformanyseats。Theyallstandwheretheylanded，asifstrickenintostone；andlookaftertheboat。Sotheyremain，quitestillandsilent:theoldwomanandheroldchair，inthecentrethebagandchestupontheshore，withoutanybodyheedingthemalleyesfixedupontheboat。Itcomesalongside，ismadefast，themenjumponboard，theengineisputinmotion，andwegohoarselyonagain。Theretheystandyet，withoutthemotionofahand。Icanseethemthroughmyglass，when，inthedistanceandincreasingdarkness，theyaremerespeckstotheeye:lingeringtherestill:theoldwomanintheoldchair，andalltherestabouther:notstirringintheleastdegree。AndthusIslowlylosethem。
　　Thenightisdark，andweproceedwithintheshadowofthewoodedbank，whichmakesitdarker。Afterglidingpastthesombremazeofboughsforalongtime，wecomeuponanopenspacewherethetalltreesareburning。Theshapeofeverybranchandtwigisexpressedinadeepredglow，andasthelightwindstirsandrufflesit，theyseemtovegetateinfire。Itissuchasightaswereadofinlegendsofenchantedforests:savingthatitissadtoseethesenobleworkswastingawaysoawfully，alone；andtothinkhowmanyyearsmustcomeandgobeforethemagicthatcreatedthemwillreartheirlikeuponthisgroundagain。Butthetimewillcome；andwhen，intheirchangedashes，thegrowthofcenturiesunbornhasstruckitsroots，therestlessmenofdistantageswillrepairtotheseagainunpeopledsolitudes；andtheirfellows，incitiesfaraway，thatslumbernow，perhaps，beneaththerollingsea，willreadinlanguagestrangetoanyearsinbeingnow，butveryoldtothem，ofprimevalforestswheretheaxewasneverheard，andwherethejungledgroundwasnevertroddenbyahumanfoot。
　　Midnightandsleepblotoutthesescenesandthoughts:andwhenthemorningshinesagain，itgildsthehouse-topsofalivelycity，beforewhosebroadpavedwharftheboatismoored；withotherboats，andflags，andmovingwheels，andhumofmenaroundit；asthoughtherewerenotasolitaryorsilentroodofgroundwithinthecompassofathousandmiles。
　　Cincinnatiisabeautifulcity；cheerful，thriving，andanimated。
　　Ihavenotoftenseenaplacethatcommendsitselfsofavourablyandpleasantlytoastrangeratthefirstglanceasthisdoes:
　　withitscleanhousesofredandwhite，itswell-pavedroads，andfoot-waysofbrighttile。Nordoesitbecomelessprepossessingonacloseracquaintance。Thestreetsarebroadandairy，theshopsextremelygood，theprivateresidencesremarkablefortheireleganceandneatness。Thereissomethingofinventionandfancyinthevaryingstylesoftheselattererections，which，afterthedullcompanyofthesteamboat，isperfectlydelightful，asconveyinganassurancethattherearesuchqualitiesstillinexistence。Thedispositiontoornamenttheseprettyvillasandrenderthemattractive，leadstothecultureoftreesandflowers，andthelayingoutofwell-keptgardens，thesightofwhich，tothosewhowalkalongthestreets，isinexpressiblyrefreshingandagreeable。Iwasquitecharmedwiththeappearanceofthetown，anditsadjoiningsuburbofMountAuburn:fromwhichthecity，lyinginanamphitheatreofhills，formsapictureofremarkablebeauty，andisseentogreatadvantage。
　　TherehappenedtobeagreatTemperanceConventionheldhereonthedayafterourarrival；andastheorderofmarchbroughttheprocessionunderthewindowsofthehotelinwhichwelodged，whentheystartedinthemorning，Ihadagoodopportunityofseeingit。
　　Itcomprisedseveralthousandmen；themembersofvarious'WashingtonAuxiliaryTemperanceSocieties；'andwasmarshalledbyofficersonhorseback，whocanteredbrisklyupanddowntheline，withscarvesandribbonsofbrightcoloursflutteringoutbehindthemgaily。Therewerebandsofmusictoo，andbannersoutofnumber:anditwasafresh，holiday-lookingconcoursealtogether。
　　IwasparticularlypleasedtoseetheIrishmen，whoformedadistinctsocietyamongthemselves，andmusteredverystrongwiththeirgreenscarves；carryingtheirnationalHarpandtheirPortraitofFatherMathew，highabovethepeople'sheads。Theylookedasjollyandgood-humouredasever；and，workingherethehardestfortheirlivinganddoinganykindofsturdylabourthatcameintheirway，werethemostindependentfellowsthere，I
　　thought。
　　Thebannerswereverywellpainted，andflaunteddownthestreetfamously。Therewasthesmitingoftherock，andthegushingforthofthewaters；andtherewasatemperatemanwith'considerableofahatchet'asthestandard-bearerwouldprobablyhavesaid，aimingadeadlyblowataserpentwhichwasapparentlyabouttospringuponhimfromthetopofabarrelofspirits。Butthechieffeatureofthispartoftheshowwasahugeallegoricaldevice，borneamongtheship-carpenters，ononesidewhereofthesteamboatAlcoholwasrepresentedburstingherboilerandexplodingwithagreatcrash，whileupontheother，thegoodshipTemperancesailedawaywithafairwind，totheheart'scontentofthecaptain，crew，andpassengers。
　　Aftergoingroundthetown，theprocessionrepairedtoacertainappointedplace，where，astheprintedprogrammesetforth，itwouldbereceivedbythechildrenofthedifferentfreeschools，'singingTemperanceSongs。'Iwaspreventedfromgettingthere，intimetoheartheseLittleWarblers，ortoreportuponthisnovelkindofvocalentertainment:novel，atleast，tome:butIfoundinalargeopenspace，eachsocietygatheredrounditsownbanners，andlisteninginsilentattentiontoitsownorator。Thespeeches，judgingfromthelittleIcouldhearofthem，werecertainlyadaptedtotheoccasion，ashavingthatdegreeofrelationshiptocoldwaterwhichwetblanketsmayclaim:butthemainthingwastheconductandappearanceoftheaudiencethroughouttheday；andthatwasadmirableandfullofpromise。
　　Cincinnatiishonourablyfamousforitsfreeschools，ofwhichithassomanythatnoperson'schildamongitspopulationcan，bypossibility，wantthemeansofeducation，whichareextended，uponanaverage，tofourthousandpupils，annually。Iwasonlypresentinoneoftheseestablishmentsduringthehoursofinstruction。Intheboys'department，whichwasfulloflittleurchinsvaryingintheirages，Ishouldsay，fromsixyearsoldtotenortwelve，themasterofferedtoinstituteanextemporaryexaminationofthepupilsinalgebra；aproposal，which，asIwasbynomeansconfidentofmyabilitytodetectmistakesinthatscience，I
　　declinedwithsomealarm。Inthegirls'school，readingwasproposed；andasIfelttolerablyequaltothatart，Iexpressedmywillingnesstohearaclass。Booksweredistributedaccordingly，andsomehalf-dozengirlsrelievedeachotherinreadingparagraphsfromEnglishHistory。Butitseemedtobeadrycompilation，infinitelyabovetheirpowers；andwhentheyhadblunderedthroughthreeorfourdrearypassagesconcerningtheTreatyofAmiens，andotherthrillingtopicsofthesamenatureobviouslywithoutcomprehendingtenwords，Iexpressedmyselfquitesatisfied。ItisverypossiblethattheyonlymountedtothisexaltedstaveintheLadderofLearningfortheastonishmentofavisitor；andthatatothertimestheykeepuponitslowerrounds；butIshouldhavebeenmuchbetterpleasedandsatisfiedifIhadheardthemexercisedinsimplerlessons，whichtheyunderstood。
　　AsineveryotherplaceIvisited，thejudgeshereweregentlemenofhighcharacterandattainments。Iwasinoneofthecourtsforafewminutes，andfounditlikethosetowhichIhavealreadyreferred。Anuisancecausewastrying；therewerenotmanyspectators；andthewitnesses，counsel，andjury，formedasortoffamilycircle，sufficientlyjocoseandsnug。
　　ThesocietywithwhichImingled，wasintelligent，courteous，andagreeable。TheinhabitantsofCincinnatiareproudoftheircityasoneofthemostinterestinginAmerica:andwithgoodreason:
　　forbeautifulandthrivingasitisnow，andcontaining，asitdoes，apopulationoffiftythousandsouls，buttwo-and-fiftyyearshavepassedawaysincethegroundonwhichitstandsboughtatthattimeforafewdollarswasawildwood，anditscitizenswerebutahandfulofdwellersinscatteredloghutsupontheriver'sshore。
　　CHAPTERXII-FROMCINCINNATITOLOUISVILLEINANOTHERWESTERN
　　STEAMBOAT；ANDFROMLOUISVILLETOST。LOUISINANOTHER。ST。LOUIS
　　LEAVINGCincinnatiateleveno'clockintheforenoon，weembarkedforLouisvilleinthePikesteamboat，which，carryingthemails，wasapacketofamuchbetterclassthanthatinwhichwehadcomefromPittsburg。Asthispassagedoesnotoccupymorethantwelveorthirteenhours，wearrangedtogoashorethatnight:notcovetingthedistinctionofsleepinginastate-room，whenitwaspossibletosleepanywhereelse。
　　Therechancedtobeonboardthisboat，inadditiontotheusualdrearycrowdofpassengers，onePitchlynn，achiefoftheChoctawtribeofIndians，whoSENTINHISCARDtome，andwithwhomIhadthepleasureofalongconversation。
　　HespokeEnglishperfectlywell，thoughhehadnotbeguntolearnthelanguage，hetoldme，untilhewasayoungmangrown。Hehadreadmanybooks；andScott'spoetryappearedtohaveleftastrongimpressiononhismind:especiallytheopeningofTheLadyoftheLake，andthegreatbattlesceneinMarmion，inwhich，nodoubtfromthecongenialityofthesubjectstohisownpursuitsandtastes，hehadgreatinterestanddelight。Heappearedtounderstandcorrectlyallhehadread；andwhateverfictionhadenlistedhissympathyinitsbelief，haddonesokeenlyandearnestly。Imightalmostsayfiercely。Hewasdressedinourordinaryeverydaycostume，whichhungabouthisfinefigureloosely，andwithindifferentgrace。OnmytellinghimthatI
　　regrettednottoseehiminhisownattire，hethrewuphisrightarm，foramoment，asthoughhewerebrandishingsomeheavyweapon，andanswered，asheletitfallagain，thathisracewerelosingmanythingsbesidestheirdress，andwouldsoonbeseenupontheearthnomore:butheworeitathome，headdedproudly。
　　Hetoldmethathehadbeenawayfromhishome，westoftheMississippi，seventeenmonths:andwasnowreturning。HehadbeenchieflyatWashingtononsomenegotiationspendingbetweenhisTribeandtheGovernment:whichwerenotsettledyethesaidinamelancholyway，andhefearedneverwouldbe:forwhatcouldafewpoorIndiansdo，againstsuchwell-skilledmenofbusinessasthewhites？HehadnoloveforWashington；tiredoftownsandcitiesverysoon；andlongedfortheForestandthePrairie。
　　IaskedhimwhathethoughtofCongress？Heanswered，withasmile，thatitwanteddignity，inanIndian'seyes。
　　Hewouldverymuchlike，hesaid，toseeEnglandbeforehedied；
　　andspokewithmuchinterestaboutthegreatthingstobeseenthere。WhenItoldhimofthatchamberintheBritishMuseumwhereinarepreservedhouseholdmemorialsofaracethatceasedtobe，thousandsofyearsago，hewasveryattentive，anditwasnothardtoseethathehadareferenceinhismindtothegradualfadingawayofhisownpeople。
　　ThisledustospeakofMr。Catlin'sgallery，whichhepraisedhighly:observingthathisownportraitwasamongthecollection，andthatallthelikenesseswere'elegant。'Mr。Cooper，hesaid，hadpaintedtheRedManwell；andsowouldI，heknew，ifIwouldgohomewithhimandhuntbuffaloes，whichhewasquiteanxiousI
　　shoulddo。WhenItoldhimthatsupposingIwent，Ishouldnotbeverylikelytodamagethebuffaloesmuch，hetookitasagreatjokeandlaughedheartily。
　　Hewasaremarkablyhandsomeman；someyearspastforty，Ishouldjudge；withlongblackhair，anaquilinenose，broadcheek-bones，asunburntcomplexion，andaverybright，keen，dark，andpiercingeye。TherewerebuttwentythousandoftheChoctawsleft，hesaid，andtheirnumberwasdecreasingeveryday。Afewofhisbrotherchiefshadbeenobligedtobecomecivilised，andtomakethemselvesacquaintedwithwhatthewhitesknew，foritwastheironlychanceofexistence。Buttheywerenotmany；andtherestwereastheyalwayshadbeen。Hedweltonthis:andsaidseveraltimesthatunlesstheytriedtoassimilatethemselvestotheirconquerors，theymustbesweptawaybeforethestridesofcivilisedsociety。
　　Whenweshookhandsatparting，ItoldhimhemustcometoEngland，ashelongedtoseethelandsomuch:thatIshouldhopetoseehimthere，oneday:andthatIcouldpromisehimhewouldbewellreceivedandkindlytreated。Hewasevidentlypleasedbythisassurance，thoughherejoinedwithagood-humouredsmileandanarchshakeofhishead，thattheEnglishusedtobeveryfondoftheRedMenwhentheywantedtheirhelp，buthadnotcaredmuchforthem，since。
　　Hetookhisleave；asstatelyandcompleteagentlemanofNature'smaking，aseverIbeheld；andmovedamongthepeopleintheboat，anotherkindofbeing。Hesentmealithographedportraitofhimselfsoonafterwards；verylike，thoughscarcelyhandsomeenough；whichIhavecarefullypreservedinmemoryofourbriefacquaintance。
　　Therewasnothingveryinterestinginthesceneryofthisday'sjourney，whichbroughtusatmidnighttoLouisville。WesleptattheGaltHouse；asplendidhotel；andwereashandsomelylodgedasthoughwehadbeeninParis，ratherthanhundredsofmilesbeyondtheAlleghanies。
　　Thecitypresentingnoobjectsofsufficientinteresttodetainusonourway，weresolvedtoproceednextdaybyanothersteamboat，theFulton，andtojoinit，aboutnoon，atasuburbcalledPortland，whereitwouldbedelayedsometimeinpassingthroughacanal。
　　Theinterval，afterbreakfast，wedevotedtoridingthroughthetown，whichisregularandcheerful:thestreetsbeinglaidoutatrightangles，andplantedwithyoungtrees。Thebuildingsaresmokyandblackened，fromtheuseofbituminouscoal，butanEnglishmaniswellusedtothatappearance，andindisposedtoquarrelwithit。Theredidnotappeartobemuchbusinessstirring；andsomeunfinishedbuildingsandimprovementsseemedtointimatethatthecityhadbeenoverbuiltintheardourof'going-
　　a-head，'andwassufferingunderthere-actionconsequentuponsuchfeverishforcingofitspowers。
　　OnourwaytoPortland，wepasseda'Magistrate'soffice，'whichamusedme，aslookingfarmorelikeadameschoolthananypoliceestablishment:forthisawfulInstitutionwasnothingbutalittlelazy，good-for-nothingfrontparlour，opentothestreet；whereintwoorthreefiguresIpresumethemagistrateandhismyrmidons
　　werebaskinginthesunshine，theveryeffigiesoflanguorandrepose。Itwasaperfectpictureofjusticeretiredfrombusinessforwantofcustomers；herswordandscalessoldoff；nappingcomfortablywithherlegsuponthetable。
　　Here，aselsewhereintheseparts，theroadwasperfectlyalivewithpigsofallages；lyingaboutineverydirection，fastasleep。；orgruntingalonginquestofhiddendainties。Ihadalwaysasneakingkindnessfortheseoddanimals，andfoundaconstantsourceofamusement，whenallothersfailed，inwatchingtheirproceedings。Aswewereridingalongthismorning，I
　　observedalittleincidentbetweentwoyouthfulpigs，whichwassoveryhumanastobeinexpressiblycomicalandgrotesqueatthetime，thoughIdaresay，intelling，itistameenough。
　　Oneyounggentlemanaverydelicateporkerwithseveralstrawsstickingabouthisnose，betokeningrecentinvestigationsinadung-hillwaswalkingdeliberatelyon，profoundlythinking，whensuddenlyhisbrother，whowaslyinginamiryholeunseenbyhim，roseupimmediatelybeforehisstartledeyes，ghostlywithdampmud。Neverwaspig'swholemassofbloodsoturned。Hestartedbackatleastthreefeet，gazedforamoment，andthenshotoffashardashecouldgo:hisexcessivelylittletailvibratingwithspeedandterrorlikeadistractedpendulum。Butbeforehehadgoneveryfar，hebegantoreasonwithhimselfastothenatureofthisfrightfulappearance；andashereasoned，herelaxedhisspeedbygradualdegrees；untilatlasthestopped，andfacedabout。
　　Therewashisbrother，withthemuduponhimglazinginthesun，yetstaringoutoftheverysamehole，perfectlyamazedathisproceedings!Hewasnosoonerassuredofthis；andheassuredhimselfsocarefullythatonemayalmostsayheshadedhiseyeswithhishandtoseethebetter；thanhecamebackataroundtrot，pounceduponhim，andsummarilytookoffapieceofhistail；asacautiontohimtobecarefulwhathewasaboutforthefuture，andnevertoplaytrickswithhisfamilyanymore。
　　Wefoundthesteamboatinthecanal，waitingfortheslowprocessofgettingthroughthelock，andwentonboard，whereweshortlyafterwardshadanewkindofvisitorinthepersonofacertainKentuckyGiantwhosenameisPorter，andwhoisofthemoderateheightofsevenfeeteightinches，inhisstockings。
　　Thereneverwasaraceofpeoplewhosocompletelygavethelietohistoryasthesegiants，orwhomallthechroniclershavesocruellylibelled。Insteadofroaringandravagingabouttheworld，constantlycateringfortheircanniballarders，andperpetuallygoingtomarketinanunlawfulmanner，theyarethemeekestpeopleinanyman'sacquaintance:ratherincliningtomilkandvegetablediet，andbearinganythingforaquietlife。Sodecidedlyareamiabilityandmildnesstheircharacteristics，thatIconfessI
　　lookuponthatyouthwhodistinguishedhimselfbytheslaughteroftheseinoffensivepersons，asafalse-heartedbrigand，who，pretendingtophilanthropicmotives，wassecretlyinfluencedonlybythewealthstoredupwithintheircastles，andthehopeofplunder。AndIleanthemoretothisopinionfromfindingthateventhehistorianofthoseexploits，withallhispartialityforhishero，isfaintoadmitthattheslaughteredmonstersinquestionwereofaveryinnocentandsimpleturn；extremelyguilelessandreadyofbelief；lendingacredulouseartothemostimprobabletales；sufferingthemselvestobeeasilyentrappedintopits；andevenasinthecaseoftheWelshGiantwithanexcessofthehospitablepolitenessofalandlord，rippingthemselvesopen，ratherthanhintatthepossibilityoftheirguestsbeingversedinthevagabondartsofsleight-of-handandhocus-pocus。
　　TheKentuckyGiantwasbutanotherillustrationofthetruthofthisposition。Hehadaweaknessintheregionoftheknees，andatrustfulnessinhislongface，whichappealedeventofive-feetnineforencouragementandsupport。Hewasonlytwenty-fiveyearsold，hesaid，andhadgrownrecently，forithadbeenfoundnecessarytomakeanadditiontothelegsofhisinexpressibles。
　　Atfifteenhewasashortboy，andinthosedayshisEnglishfatherandhisIrishmotherhadrathersnubbedhim，asbeingtoosmallofstaturetosustainthecreditofthefamily。Headdedthathishealthhadnotbeengood，thoughitwasbetternow；butshortpeoplearenotwantingwhowhisperthathedrinkstoohard。
　　Iunderstandhedrivesahackney-coach，thoughhowhedoesit，unlesshestandsonthefootboardbehind，andliesalongtheroofuponhischest，withhischininthebox，itwouldbedifficulttocomprehend。Hebroughthisgunwithhim，asacuriosity。
　　Christened'TheLittleRifle，'anddisplayedoutsideashop-window，itwouldmakethefortuneofanyretailbusinessinHolborn。Whenhehadshownhimselfandtalkedalittlewhile，hewithdrewwithhispocket-instrument，andwentbobbingdownthecabin，amongmenofsixfeethighandupwards，likealight-housewalkingamonglamp-posts。
　　Withinafewminutesafterwards，wewereoutofthecanal，andintheOhioriveragain。
　　ThearrangementsoftheboatwerelikethoseoftheMessenger，andthepassengerswereofthesameorderofpeople。Wefedatthesametimes，onthesamekindofviands，inthesamedullmanner，andwiththesameobservances。Thecompanyappearedtobeoppressedbythesametremendousconcealments，andhadaslittlecapacityofenjoymentorlight-heartedness。Ineverinmylifedidseesuchlistless，heavydulnessasbroodedoverthesemeals:theveryrecollectionofitweighsmedown，andmakesme，forthemoment，wretched。Readingandwritingonmyknee，inourlittlecabin，Ireallydreadedthecomingofthehourthatsummonedustotable；andwasasgladtoescapefromitagain，asifithadbeenapenanceorapunishment。Healthycheerfulnessandgoodspiritsformingapartofthebanquet，IcouldsoakmycrustsinthefountainwithLeSage'sstrollingplayer，andrevelintheirgladenjoyment:butsittingdownwithsomanyfellow-animalstowardoffthirstandhungerasabusiness；toempty，eachcreature，hisYahoo'stroughasquicklyashecan，andthenslinksullenlyaway；