首页 >出版文学> AMERICAN NOTES>第7章

第7章

  Intheoutskirts,standsagreatprison,calledtheEasternPenitentiary:conductedonaplanpeculiartothestateofPennsylvania。Thesystemhere,isrigid,strict,andhopelesssolitaryconfinement。Ibelieveit,initseffects,tobecruelandwrong。
  Initsintention,Iamwellconvincedthatitiskind,humane,andmeantforreformation;butIampersuadedthatthosewhodevisedthissystemofPrisonDiscipline,andthosebenevolentgentlemenwhocarryitintoexecution,donotknowwhatitisthattheyaredoing。Ibelievethatveryfewmenarecapableofestimatingtheimmenseamountoftortureandagonywhichthisdreadfulpunishment,prolongedforyears,inflictsuponthesufferers;andinguessingatitmyself,andinreasoningfromwhatIhaveseenwrittenupontheirfaces,andwhattomycertainknowledgetheyfeelwithin,I
  amonlythemoreconvincedthatthereisadepthofterribleenduranceinitwhichnonebutthesufferersthemselvescanfathom,andwhichnomanhasarighttoinflictuponhisfellow-creature。
  Iholdthisslowanddailytamperingwiththemysteriesofthebrain,tobeimmeasurablyworsethananytortureofthebody:andbecauseitsghastlysignsandtokensarenotsopalpabletotheeyeandsenseoftouchasscarsupontheflesh;becauseitswoundsarenotuponthesurface,anditextortsfewcriesthathumanearscanhear;thereforeIthemoredenounceit,asasecretpunishmentwhichslumberinghumanityisnotrouseduptostay。Ihesitatedonce,debatingwithmyself,whether,ifIhadthepowerofsaying'Yes'or'No,'Iwouldallowittobetriedincertaincases,wherethetermsofimprisonmentwereshort;butnow,Isolemnlydeclare,thatwithnorewardsorhonourscouldIwalkahappymanbeneaththeopenskybyday,orliemedownuponmybedatnight,withtheconsciousnessthatonehumancreature,foranylengthoftime,nomatterwhat,laysufferingthisunknownpunishmentinhissilentcell,andIthecause,orIconsentingtoitintheleastdegree。
  Iwasaccompaniedtothisprisonbytwogentlemenofficiallyconnectedwithitsmanagement,andpassedthedayingoingfromcelltocell,andtalkingwiththeinmates。Everyfacilitywasaffordedme,thattheutmostcourtesycouldsuggest。Nothingwasconcealedorhiddenfrommyview,andeverypieceofinformationthatIsought,wasopenlyandfranklygiven。Theperfectorderofthebuildingcannotbepraisedtoohighly,andoftheexcellentmotivesofallwhoareimmediatelyconcernedintheadministrationofthesystem,therecanbenokindofquestion。
  Betweenthebodyoftheprisonandtheouterwall,thereisaspaciousgarden。Enteringit,byawicketinthemassivegate,wepursuedthepathbeforeustoitsothertermination,andpassedintoalargechamber,fromwhichsevenlongpassagesradiate。Oneithersideofeach,isalong,longrowoflowcelldoors,withacertainnumberovereveryone。Above,agalleryofcellslikethosebelow,exceptthattheyhavenonarrowyardattachedasthoseinthegroundtierhave,andaresomewhatsmaller。Thepossessionoftwoofthese,issupposedtocompensatefortheabsenceofsomuchairandexerciseascanbehadinthedullstripattachedtoeachoftheothers,inanhour'stimeeveryday;andthereforeeveryprisonerinthisupperstoryhastwocells,adjoiningandcommunicatingwith,eachother。
  Standingatthecentralpoint,andlookingdownthesedrearypassages,thedullreposeandquietthatprevails,isawful。
  Occasionally,thereisadrowsysoundfromsomeloneweaver'sshuttle,orshoemaker'slast,butitisstifledbythethickwallsandheavydungeon-door,andonlyservestomakethegeneralstillnessmoreprofound。Overtheheadandfaceofeveryprisonerwhocomesintothismelancholyhouse,ablackhoodisdrawn;andinthisdarkshroud,anemblemofthecurtaindroppedbetweenhimandthelivingworld,heisledtothecellfromwhichheneveragaincomesforth,untilhiswholetermofimprisonmenthasexpired。Heneverhearsofwifeandchildren;homeorfriends;thelifeordeathofanysinglecreature。Heseestheprison-officers,butwiththatexceptionheneverlooksuponahumancountenance,orhearsahumanvoice。Heisamanburiedalive;tobedugoutintheslowroundofyears;andinthemeantimedeadtoeverythingbuttorturinganxietiesandhorribledespair。
  Hisname,andcrime,andtermofsuffering,areunknown,eventotheofficerwhodelivershimhisdailyfood。Thereisanumberoverhiscell-door,andinabookofwhichthegovernoroftheprisonhasonecopy,andthemoralinstructoranother:thisistheindexofhishistory。Beyondthesepagestheprisonhasnorecordofhisexistence:andthoughhelivetobeinthesamecelltenwearyyears,hehasnomeansofknowing,downtotheverylasthour,inwhichpartofthebuildingitissituated;whatkindofmenthereareabouthim;whetherinthelongwinternightstherearelivingpeoplenear,orheisinsomelonelycornerofthegreatjail,withwalls,andpassages,andirondoorsbetweenhimandthenearestsharerinitssolitaryhorrors。
  Everycellhasdoubledoors:theouteroneofsturdyoak,theotherofgratediron,whereinthereisatrapthroughwhichhisfoodishanded。HehasaBible,andaslateandpencil,and,undercertainrestrictions,hassometimesotherbooks,providedforthepurpose,andpenandinkandpaper。Hisrazor,plate,andcan,andbasin,hanguponthewall,orshineuponthelittleshelf。Freshwaterislaidonineverycell,andhecandrawitathispleasure。
  Duringtheday,hisbedsteadturnsupagainstthewall,andleavesmorespaceforhimtoworkin。Hisloom,orbench,orwheel,isthere;andtherehelabours,sleepsandwakes,andcountstheseasonsastheychange,andgrowsold。
  ThefirstmanIsaw,wasseatedathisloom,atwork。Hehadbeentheresixyears,andwastoremain,Ithink,threemore。Hehadbeenconvictedasareceiverofstolengoods,butevenafterhislongimprisonment,deniedhisguilt,andsaidhehadbeenhardlydealtby。Itwashissecondoffence。
  Hestoppedhisworkwhenwewentin,tookoffhisspectacles,andansweredfreelytoeverythingthatwassaidtohim,butalwayswithastrangekindofpausefirst,andinalow,thoughtfulvoice。Heworeapaperhatofhisownmaking,andwaspleasedtohaveitnoticedandcommanded。HehadveryingeniouslymanufacturedasortofDutchclockfromsomedisregardedoddsandends;andhisvinegar-bottleservedforthependulum。Seeingmeinterestedinthiscontrivance,helookedupatitwithagreatdealofpride,andsaidthathehadbeenthinkingofimprovingit,andthathehopedthehammerandalittlepieceofbrokenglassbesideit'wouldplaymusicbeforelong。'Hehadextractedsomecoloursfromtheyarnwithwhichheworked,andpaintedafewpoorfiguresonthewall。One,ofafemale,overthedoor,hecalled'TheLadyoftheLake。'
  HesmiledasIlookedatthesecontrivancestowhileawaythetime;
  butwhenIlookedfromthemtohim,Isawthathisliptrembled,andcouldhavecountedthebeatingofhisheart。Iforgethowitcameabout,butsomeallusionwasmadetohishavingawife。Heshookhisheadattheword,turnedaside,andcoveredhisfacewithhishands。
  'Butyouareresignednow!'saidoneofthegentlemenafterashortpause,duringwhichhehadresumedhisformermanner。Heansweredwithasighthatseemedquiterecklessinitshopelessness,'Ohyes,ohyes!Iamresignedtoit。''Andareabetterman,youthink?''Well,Ihopeso:I'msureIhopeImaybe。''Andtimegoesprettyquickly?''Timeisverylonggentlemen,withinthesefourwalls!'
  Hegazedabouthim-Heavenonlyknowshowwearily!-ashesaidthesewords;andintheactofdoingso,fellintoastrangestareasifhehadforgottensomething。Amomentafterwardshesighedheavily,putonhisspectacles,andwentabouthisworkagain。
  Inanothercell,therewasaGerman,sentencedtofiveyears'
  imprisonmentforlarceny,twoofwhichhadjustexpired。Withcoloursprocuredinthesamemanner,hehadpaintedeveryinchofthewallsandceilingquitebeautifully。Hehadlaidoutthefewfeetofground,behind,withexquisiteneatness,andhadmadealittlebedinthecentre,thatlooked,by-the-bye,likeagrave。
  Thetasteandingenuityhehaddisplayedineverythingweremostextraordinary;andyetamoredejected,heart-broken,wretchedcreature,itwouldbedifficulttoimagine。Ineversawsuchapictureofforlornafflictionanddistressofmind。Myheartbledforhim;andwhenthetearsrandownhischeeks,andhetookoneofthevisitorsaside,toask,withhistremblinghandsnervouslyclutchingathiscoattodetainhim,whethertherewasnohopeofhisdismalsentencebeingcommuted,thespectaclewasreallytoopainfultowitness。Ineversaworheardofanykindofmiserythatimpressedmemorethanthewretchednessofthisman。
  Inathirdcell,wasatall,strongblack,aburglar,workingathispropertradeofmakingscrewsandthelike。Histimewasnearlyout。Hewasnotonlyaverydexterousthief,butwasnotoriousforhisboldnessandhardihood,andforthenumberofhispreviousconvictions。Heentertaineduswithalongaccountofhisachievements,whichhenarratedwithsuchinfiniterelish,thatheactuallyseemedtolickhislipsashetoldusracyanecdotesofstolenplate,andofoldladieswhomhehadwatchedastheysatatwindowsinsilverspectacleshehadplainlyhadaneyetotheirmetalevenfromtheothersideofthestreetandhadafterwardsrobbed。Thisfellow,upontheslightestencouragement,wouldhavemingledwithhisprofessionalrecollectionsthemostdetestablecant;butIamverymuchmistakenifhecouldhavesurpassedtheunmitigatedhypocrisywithwhichhedeclaredthatheblessedthedayonwhichhecameintothatprison,andthatheneverwouldcommitanotherrobberyaslongashelived。
  Therewasonemanwhowasallowed,asanindulgence,tokeeprabbits。Hisroomhavingratheraclosesmellinconsequence,theycalledtohimatthedoortocomeoutintothepassage。Hecompliedofcourse,andstoodshadinghishaggardfaceintheunwontedsunlightofthegreatwindow,lookingaswanandunearthlyasifhehadbeensummonedfromthegrave。Hehadawhiterabbitinhisbreast;andwhenthelittlecreature,gettingdownupontheground,stolebackintothecell,andhe,beingdismissed,crepttimidlyafterit,Ithoughtitwouldhavebeenveryhardtosayinwhatrespectthemanwasthenobleranimalofthetwo。
  TherewasanEnglishthief,whohadbeentherebutafewdaysoutofsevenyears:avillainous,low-browed,thin-lippedfellow,withawhiteface;whohadasyetnorelishforvisitors,andwho,butfortheadditionalpenalty,wouldhavegladlystabbedmewithhisshoemaker'sknife。TherewasanotherGermanwhohadenteredthejailbutyesterday,andwhostartedfromhisbedwhenwelookedin,andpleaded,inhisbrokenEnglish,veryhardforwork。Therewasapoet,whoafterdoingtwodays'workineveryfour-and-twentyhours,oneforhimselfandonefortheprison,wroteversesaboutshipshewasbytradeamariner,and'themaddeningwine-cup,'
  andhisfriendsathome。Therewereverymanyofthem。Somereddenedatthesightofvisitors,andsometurnedverypale。Sometwoorthreehadprisonernurseswiththem,fortheywereverysick;andone,afatoldnegrowhoseleghadbeentakenoffwithinthejail,hadforhisattendantaclassicalscholarandanaccomplishedsurgeon,himselfaprisonerlikewise。Sittinguponthestairs,engagedinsomeslightwork,wasaprettycolouredboy。
  'IstherenorefugeforyoungcriminalsinPhiladelphia,then?'
  saidI。'Yes,butonlyforwhitechildren。'NoblearistocracyincrimeTherewasasailorwhohadbeenthereupwardsofelevenyears,andwhoinafewmonths'timewouldbefree。Elevenyearsofsolitaryconfinement!
  'Iamverygladtohearyourtimeisnearlyout。'Whatdoeshesay?Nothing。Whydoeshestareathishands,andpickthefleshuponhisfingers,andraisehiseyesforaninstant,everynowandthen,tothosebarewallswhichhaveseenhisheadturngrey?Itisawayhehassometimes。
  Doesheneverlookmenintheface,anddoeshealwayspluckatthosehandsofhis,asthoughhewerebentonpartingskinandbone?Itishishumour:nothingmore。
  Itishishumourtoo,tosaythathedoesnotlookforwardtogoingout;thatheisnotgladthetimeisdrawingnear;thathedidlookforwardtoitonce,butthatwasverylongago;thathehaslostallcareforeverything。Itishishumourtobeahelpless,crushed,andbrokenman。And,Heavenbehiswitnessthathehashishumourthoroughlygratified!
  Therewerethreeyoungwomeninadjoiningcells,allconvictedatthesametimeofaconspiracytorobtheirprosecutor。Inthesilenceandsolitudeoftheirlivestheyhadgrowntobequitebeautiful。Theirlookswereverysad,andmighthavemovedthesternestvisitortotears,butnottothatkindofsorrowwhichthecontemplationofthemenawakens。Onewasayounggirl;nottwenty,asIrecollect;whosesnow-whiteroomwashungwiththeworkofsomeformerprisoner,anduponwhosedowncastfacethesuninallitssplendourshonedownthroughthehighchinkinthewall,whereonenarrowstripofbrightblueskywasvisible。Shewasverypenitentandquiet;hadcometoberesigned,shesaidandI
  believeher;andhadamindatpeace。'Inaword,youarehappyhere?'saidoneofmycompanions。Shestruggled-shedidstruggleveryhard-toanswer,Yes;butraisinghereyes,andmeetingthatglimpseoffreedomoverhead,sheburstintotears,andsaid,'Shetriedtobe;sheutterednocomplaint;butitwasnaturalthatsheshouldsometimeslongtogooutofthatonecell:shecouldnothelpTHAT,'shesobbed,poorthing!
  Iwentfromcelltocellthatday;andeveryfaceIsaw,orwordI
  heard,orincidentInoted,ispresenttomymindinallitspainfulness。Butletmepassthemby,forone,morepleasant,glanceofaprisononthesameplanwhichIafterwardssawatPittsburg。
  WhenIhadgoneoverthat,inthesamemanner,Iaskedthegovernorifhehadanypersoninhischargewhowasshortlygoingout。Hehadone,hesaid,whosetimewasupnextday;buthehadonlybeenaprisonertwoyears。
  Twoyears!Ilookedbackthroughtwoyearsofmyownlife-outofjail,prosperous,happy,surroundedbyblessings,comforts,goodfortune-andthoughthowwideagapitwas,andhowlongthosetwoyearspassedinsolitarycaptivitywouldhavebeen。Ihavethefaceofthisman,whowasgoingtobereleasednextday,beforemenow。Itisalmostmorememorableinitshappinessthantheotherfacesintheirmisery。Howeasyandhownaturalitwasforhimtosaythatthesystemwasagoodone;andthatthetimewent'prettyquick-considering;'andthatwhenamanoncefeltthathehadoffendedthelaw,andmustsatisfyit,'hegotalong,somehow:'andsoforth!
  'Whatdidhecallyoubacktosaytoyou,inthatstrangeflutter?'
  Iaskedofmyconductor,whenhehadlockedthedoorandjoinedmeinthepassage。
  'Oh!Thathewasafraidthesolesofhisbootswerenotfitforwalking,astheywereagooddealwornwhenhecamein;andthathewouldthankmeverymuchtohavethemmended,ready。'
  Thosebootshadbeentakenoffhisfeet,andputawaywiththerestofhisclothes,twoyearsbefore!
  Itookthatopportunityofinquiringhowtheyconductedthemselvesimmediatelybeforegoingout;addingthatIpresumedtheytrembledverymuch。
  'Well,it'snotsomuchatrembling,'wastheanswer-'thoughtheydoquiver-asacompletederangementofthenervoussystem。Theycan'tsigntheirnamestothebook;sometimescan'tevenholdthepen;lookabout'emwithoutappearingtoknowwhy,orwheretheyare;andsometimesgetupandsitdownagain,twentytimesinaminute。Thisiswhenthey'reintheoffice,wheretheyaretakenwiththehoodon,astheywerebroughtin。Whentheygetoutsidethegate,theystop,andlookfirstonewayandthentheother;notknowingwhichtotake。Sometimestheystaggerasiftheyweredrunk,andsometimesareforcedtoleanagainstthefence,they'resobad:-buttheyclearoffincourseoftime。'
  AsIwalkedamongthesesolitarycells,andlookedatthefacesofthemenwithinthem,Itriedtopicturetomyselfthethoughtsandfeelingsnaturaltotheircondition。Iimaginedthehoodjusttakenoff,andthesceneoftheircaptivitydisclosedtotheminallitsdismalmonotony。
  Atfirst,themanisstunned。Hisconfinementisahideousvision;
  andhisoldlifeareality。Hethrowshimselfuponhisbed,andliesthereabandonedtodespair。Bydegreestheinsupportablesolitudeandbarrennessoftheplacerouseshimfromthisstupor,andwhenthetrapinhisgrateddoorisopened,hehumblybegsandpraysforwork。'Givemesomeworktodo,orIshallgoravingmad!'
  Hehasit;andbyfitsandstartsapplieshimselftolabour;buteverynowandthentherecomesuponhimaburningsenseoftheyearsthatmustbewastedinthatstonecoffin,andanagonysopiercingintherecollectionofthosewhoarehiddenfromhisviewandknowledge,thathestartsfromhisseat,andstridingupanddownthenarrowroomwithbothhandsclaspedonhisupliftedhead,hearsspiritstemptinghimtobeathisbrainsoutonthewall。
  Againhefallsuponhisbed,andliesthere,moaning。Suddenlyhestartsup,wonderingwhetheranyothermanisnear;whetherthereisanothercelllikethatoneithersideofhim:andlistenskeenly。
  Thereisnosound,butotherprisonersmaybenearforallthat。
  Herememberstohaveheardonce,whenhelittlethoughtofcomingherehimself,thatthecellsweresoconstructedthattheprisonerscouldnotheareachother,thoughtheofficerscouldhearthem。
  Whereisthenearestman-upontheright,orontheleft?oristhereoneinbothdirections?Whereishesittingnow-withhisfacetothelight?orishewalkingtoandfro?Howishedressed?
  Hashebeenherelong?Ishemuchwornaway?Isheverywhiteandspectre-like?DoesHEthinkofhisneighbourtoo?
  Scarcelyventuringtobreathe,andlisteningwhilehethinks,heconjuresupafigurewithhisbacktowardshim,andimaginesitmovingaboutinthisnextcell。Hehasnoideaoftheface,butheiscertainofthedarkformofastoopingman。Inthecellupontheotherside,heputsanotherfigure,whosefaceishiddenfromhimalso。Dayafterday,andoftenwhenhewakesupinthemiddleofthenight,hethinksofthesetwomenuntilheisalmostdistracted。Heneverchangesthem。Theretheyarealwaysashefirstimaginedthem-anoldmanontheright;ayoungermanupontheleft-whosehiddenfeaturestorturehimtodeath,andhaveamysterythatmakeshimtremble。
  Thewearydayspassonwithsolemnpace,likemournersatafuneral;andslowlyhebeginstofeelthatthewhitewallsofthecellhavesomethingdreadfulinthem:thattheircolourishorrible:thattheirsmoothsurfacechillshisblood:thatthereisonehatefulcornerwhichtormentshim。Everymorningwhenhewakes,hehideshisheadbeneaththecoverlet,andshudderstoseetheghastlyceilinglookingdownuponhim。Theblessedlightofdayitselfpeepsin,anuglyphantomface,throughtheunchangeablecrevicewhichishisprisonwindow。
  Byslowbutsuredegrees,theterrorsofthathatefulcornerswelluntiltheybesethimatalltimes;invadehisrest,makehisdreamshideous,andhisnightsdreadful。Atfirst,hetookastrangedisliketoit;feelingasthoughitgavebirthinhisbraintosomethingofcorrespondingshape,whichoughtnottobethere,andrackedhisheadwithpains。Thenhebegantofearit,thentodreamofit,andofmenwhisperingitsnameandpointingtoit。
  Thenhecouldnotbeartolookatit,noryettoturnhisbackuponit。Now,itiseverynightthelurking-placeofaghost:ashadow:-asilentsomething,horribletosee,butwhetherbird,orbeast,ormuffledhumanshape,hecannottell。
  Whenheisinhiscellbyday,hefearsthelittleyardwithout。
  Whenheisintheyard,hedreadstore-enterthecell。Whennightcomes,therestandsthephantominthecorner。Ifhehavethecouragetostandinitsplace,anddriveitouthehadonce:
  beingdesperate,itbroodsuponhisbed。Inthetwilight,andalwaysatthesamehour,avoicecallstohimbyname;asthedarknessthickens,hisLoombeginstolive;andeventhat,hiscomfort,isahideousfigure,watchinghimtilldaybreak。
  Again,byslowdegrees,thesehorriblefanciesdepartfromhimonebyone:returningsometimes,unexpectedly,butatlongerintervals,andinlessalarmingshapes。Hehastalkeduponreligiousmatterswiththegentlemanwhovisitshim,andhasreadhisBible,andhaswrittenaprayeruponhisslate,andhungitupasakindofprotection,andanassuranceofHeavenlycompanionship。Hedreamsnow,sometimes,ofhischildrenorhiswife,butissurethattheyaredead,orhavedesertedhim。Heiseasilymovedtotears;isgentle,submissive,andbroken-spirited。
  Occasionally,theoldagonycomesback:averylittlethingwillreviveit;evenafamiliarsound,orthescentofsummerflowersintheair;butitdoesnotlastlong,now:fortheworldwithout,hascometobethevision,andthissolitarylife,thesadreality。
  Ifhistermofimprisonmentbeshort-Imeancomparatively,forshortitcannotbe-thelasthalfyearisalmostworsethanall;
  forthenhethinkstheprisonwilltakefireandhebeburntintheruins,orthatheisdoomedtodiewithinthewalls,orthathewillbedetainedonsomefalsechargeandsentencedforanotherterm:orthatsomething,nomatterwhat,musthappentopreventhisgoingatlarge。Andthisisnatural,andimpossibletobereasonedagainst,because,afterhislongseparationfromhumanlife,andhisgreatsuffering,anyeventwillappeartohimmoreprobableinthecontemplation,thanthebeingrestoredtolibertyandhisfellow-creatures。
  Ifhisperiodofconfinementhavebeenverylong,theprospectofreleasebewildersandconfuseshim。Hisbrokenheartmayflutterforamoment,whenhethinksoftheworldoutside,andwhatitmighthavebeentohiminallthoselonelyyears,butthatisall。
  Thecell-doorhasbeenclosedtoolongonallitshopesandcares。
  Bettertohavehangedhiminthebeginningthanbringhimtothispass,andsendhimforthtominglewithhiskind,whoarehiskindnomore。
  Onthehaggardfaceofeverymanamongtheseprisoners,thesameexpressionsat。Iknownotwhattolikenitto。Ithadsomethingofthatstrainedattentionwhichweseeuponthefacesoftheblindanddeaf,mingledwithakindofhorror,asthoughtheyhadallbeensecretlyterrified。IneverylittlechamberthatIentered,andateverygratethroughwhichIlooked,Iseemedtoseethesameappallingcountenance。Itlivesinmymemory,withthefascinationofaremarkablepicture。Paradebeforemyeyes,ahundredmen,withoneamongthemnewlyreleasedfromthissolitarysuffering,andIwouldpointhimout。
  Thefacesofthewomen,asIhavesaid,ithumanisesandrefines。
  Whetherthisbebecauseoftheirbetternature,whichiselicitedinsolitude,orbecauseoftheirbeinggentlercreatures,ofgreaterpatienceandlongersuffering,Idonotknow;butsoitis。
  Thatthepunishmentisnevertheless,tomythinking,fullyascruelandaswrongintheircase,asinthatofthemen,Ineedscarcelyadd。
  Myfirmconvictionisthat,independentofthementalanguishitoccasions-ananguishsoacuteandsotremendous,thatallimaginationofitmustfallfarshortofthereality-itwearsthemindintoamorbidstate,whichrendersitunfitfortheroughcontactandbusyactionoftheworld。Itismyfixedopinionthatthosewhohaveundergonethispunishment,MUSTpassintosocietyagainmorallyunhealthyanddiseased。Therearemanyinstancesonrecord,ofmenwhohavechosen,orhavebeencondemned,tolivesofperfectsolitude,butIscarcelyrememberone,evenamongsagesofstrongandvigorousintellect,whereitseffecthasnotbecomeapparent,insomedisorderedtrainofthought,orsomegloomyhallucination。Whatmonstrousphantoms,bredofdespondencyanddoubt,andbornandrearedinsolitude,havestalkedupontheearth,makingcreationugly,anddarkeningthefaceofHeaven!
  Suicidesarerareamongtheseprisoners:arealmost,indeed,unknown。Butnoargumentinfavourofthesystem,canreasonablybededucedfromthiscircumstance,althoughitisveryoftenurged。
  Allmenwhohavemadediseasesofthemindtheirstudy,knowperfectlywellthatsuchextremedepressionanddespairaswillchangethewholecharacter,andbeatdownallitspowersofelasticityandself-resistance,maybeatworkwithinaman,andyetstopshortofself-destruction。Thisisacommoncase。
  Thatitmakesthesensesdull,andbydegreesimpairsthebodilyfaculties,Iamquitesure。IremarkedtothosewhowerewithmeinthisveryestablishmentatPhiladelphia,thatthecriminalswhohadbeentherelong,weredeaf。They,whowereinthehabitofseeingthesemenconstantly,wereperfectlyamazedattheidea,whichtheyregardedasgroundlessandfanciful。Andyettheveryfirstprisonertowhomtheyappealed-oneoftheirownselectionconfirmedmyimpressionwhichwasunknowntohiminstantly,andsaid,withagenuineairitwasimpossibletodoubt,thathecouldn'tthinkhowithappened,butheWASgrowingverydullofhearing。
  Thatitisasingularlyunequalpunishment,andaffectstheworstmanleast,thereisnodoubt。Initssuperiorefficiencyasameansofreformation,comparedwiththatothercodeofregulationswhichallowstheprisonerstoworkincompanywithoutcommunicatingtogether,Ihavenotthesmallestfaith。Alltheinstancesofreformationthatwerementionedtome,wereofakindthatmighthavebeen-andIhavenodoubtwhatever,inmyownmind,wouldhavebeen-equallywellbroughtaboutbytheSilentSystem。WithregardtosuchmenasthenegroburglarandtheEnglishthief,eventhemostenthusiastichavescarcelyanyhopeoftheirconversion。
  Itseemstomethattheobjectionthatnothingwholesomeorgoodhaseverhaditsgrowthinsuchunnaturalsolitude,andthatevenadogoranyofthemoreintelligentamongbeasts,wouldpine,andmope,andrustaway,beneathitsinfluence,wouldbeinitselfasufficientargumentagainstthissystem。Butwhenwerecollect,inaddition,howverycruelandsevereitis,andthatasolitarylifeisalwaysliabletopeculiaranddistinctobjectionsofamostdeplorablenature,whichhavearisenhere,andcalltomind,moreover,thatthechoiceisnotbetweenthissystem,andabadorill-consideredone,butbetweenitandanotherwhichhasworkedwell,andis,initswholedesignandpractice,excellent;thereissurelymorethansufficientreasonforabandoningamodeofpunishmentattendedbysolittlehopeorpromise,andfraught,beyonddispute,withsuchahostofevils。
  Asarelieftoitscontemplation,Iwillclosethischapterwithacuriousstoryarisingoutofthesametheme,whichwasrelatedtome,ontheoccasionofthisvisit,bysomeofthegentlemenconcerned。
  Atoneoftheperiodicalmeetingsoftheinspectorsofthisprison,aworkingmanofPhiladelphiapresentedhimselfbeforetheBoard,andearnestlyrequestedtobeplacedinsolitaryconfinement。Onbeingaskedwhatmotivecouldpossiblyprompthimtomakethisstrangedemand,heansweredthathehadanirresistiblepropensitytogetdrunk;thathewasconstantlyindulgingit,tohisgreatmiseryandruin;thathehadnopowerofresistance;thathewishedtobeputbeyondthereachoftemptation;andthathecouldthinkofnobetterwaythanthis。Itwaspointedouttohim,inreply,thattheprisonwasforcriminalswhohadbeentriedandsentencedbythelaw,andcouldnotbemadeavailableforanysuchfancifulpurposes;hewasexhortedtoabstainfromintoxicatingdrinks,ashesurelymightifhewould;andreceivedotherverygoodadvice,withwhichheretired,exceedinglydissatisfiedwiththeresultofhisapplication。
  Hecameagain,andagain,andagain,andwassoveryearnestandimportunate,thatatlasttheytookcounseltogether,andsaid,'Hewillcertainlyqualifyhimselfforadmission,ifwerejecthimanymore。Letusshuthimup。Hewillsoonbegladtogoaway,andthenweshallgetridofhim。'Sotheymadehimsignastatementwhichwouldpreventhiseversustaininganactionforfalseimprisonment,totheeffectthathisincarcerationwasvoluntary,andofhisownseeking;theyrequestedhimtotakenoticethattheofficerinattendancehadorderstoreleasehimatanyhourofthedayornight,whenhemightknockuponhisdoorforthatpurpose;
  butdesiredhimtounderstand,thatoncegoingout,hewouldnotbeadmittedanymore。Theseconditionsagreedupon,andhestillremaininginthesamemind,hewasconductedtotheprison,andshutupinoneofthecells。
  Inthiscell,theman,whohadnotthefirmnesstoleaveaglassofliquorstandinguntastedonatablebeforehim-inthiscell,insolitaryconfinement,andworkingeverydayathistradeofshoemaking,thismanremainednearlytwoyears。Hishealthbeginningtofailattheexpirationofthattime,thesurgeonrecommendedthatheshouldworkoccasionallyinthegarden;andashelikedthenotionverymuch,hewentaboutthisnewoccupationwithgreatcheerfulness。
  Hewasdigginghere,onesummerday,veryindustriously,whenthewicketintheoutergatechancedtobeleftopen:showing,beyond,thewell-remembereddustyroadandsunburntfields。Thewaywasasfreetohimastoanymanliving,buthenosoonerraisedhisheadandcaughtsightofit,allshininginthelight,than,withtheinvoluntaryinstinctofaprisoner,hecastawayhisspade,scamperedoffasfastashislegswouldcarryhim,andneveroncelookedback。
  CHAPTERVIII-WASHINGTON。THELEGISLATURE。ANDTHEPRESIDENT'S
  HOUSE
  WEleftPhiladelphiabysteamboat,atsixo'clockoneverycoldmorning,andturnedourfacestowardsWashington。
  Inthecourseofthisday'sjourney,asonsubsequentoccasions,weencounteredsomeEnglishmensmallfarmers,perhaps,orcountrypublicansathomewhoweresettledinAmerica,andweretravellingontheirownaffairs。OfallgradesandkindsofmenthatjostleoneinthepublicconveyancesoftheStates,theseareoftenthemostintolerableandthemostinsufferablecompanions。UnitedtoeverydisagreeablecharacteristicthattheworstkindofAmericantravellerspossess,thesecountrymenofoursdisplayanamountofinsolentconceitandcoolassumptionofsuperiority,quitemonstroustobehold。Inthecoarsefamiliarityoftheirapproach,andtheeffronteryoftheirinquisitivenesswhichtheyareingreathastetoassert,asiftheypantedtorevengethemselvesuponthedecentoldrestraintsofhome,theysurpassanynativespecimensthatcamewithinmyrangeofobservation:andIoftengrewsopatrioticwhenIsawandheardthem,thatIwouldcheerfullyhavesubmittedtoareasonablefine,ifIcouldhavegivenanyothercountryinthewholeworld,thehonourofclaimingthemforitschildren。
  AsWashingtonmaybecalledthehead-quartersoftobacco-tincturedsaliva,thetimeiscomewhenImustconfess,withoutanydisguise,thattheprevalenceofthosetwoodiouspracticesofchewingandexpectoratingbeganaboutthistimetobeanythingbutagreeable,andsoonbecamemostoffensiveandsickening。InallthepublicplacesofAmerica,thisfilthycustomisrecognised。Inthecourtsoflaw,thejudgehashisspittoon,thecrierhis,thewitnesshis,andtheprisonerhis;whilethejurymenandspectatorsareprovidedfor,assomanymenwhointhecourseofnaturemustdesiretospitincessantly。Inthehospitals,thestudentsofmedicinearerequested,bynoticesuponthewall,toejecttheirtobaccojuiceintotheboxesprovidedforthatpurpose,andnottodiscolourthestairs。Inpublicbuildings,visitorsareimplored,throughthesameagency,tosquirttheessenceoftheirquids,or'plugs,'asI
  haveheardthemcalledbygentlemenlearnedinthiskindofsweetmeat,intothenationalspittoons,andnotaboutthebasesofthemarblecolumns。Butinsomeparts,thiscustomisinseparablymixedupwitheverymealandmorningcall,andwithallthetransactionsofsociallife。Thestranger,whofollowsinthetrackItookmyself,willfinditinitsfullbloomandglory,luxuriantinallitsalarmingrecklessness,atWashington。AndlethimnotpersuadehimselfasIoncedid,tomyshamethatprevioustouristshaveexaggerateditsextent。Thethingitselfisanexaggerationofnastiness,whichcannotbeoutdone。
  Onboardthissteamboat,thereweretwoyounggentlemen,withshirt-collarsreversedasusual,andarmedwithverybigwalking-
  sticks;whoplantedtwoseatsinthemiddleofthedeck,atadistanceofsomefourpacesapart;tookouttheirtobacco-boxes;
  andsatdownoppositeeachother,tochew。Inlessthanaquarterofanhour'stime,thesehopefulyouthshadshedaboutthemonthecleanboards,acopiousshowerofyellowrain;clearing,bythatmeans,akindofmagiccircle,withinwhoselimitsnointrudersdaredtocome,andwhichtheyneverfailedtorefreshandre-
  refreshbeforeaspotwasdry。Thisbeingbeforebreakfast,ratherdisposedme,Iconfess,tonausea;butlookingattentivelyatoneoftheexpectorators,Iplainlysawthathewasyounginchewing,andfeltinwardlyuneasy,himself。Aglowofdelightcameovermeatthisdiscovery;andasImarkedhisfaceturnpalerandpaler,andsawtheballoftobaccoinhisleftcheek,quiverwithhissuppressedagony,whileyethespat,andchewed,andspatagain,inemulationofhisolderfriend,Icouldhavefallenonhisneckandimploredhimtogoonforhours。
  Weallsatdowntoacomfortablebreakfastinthecabinbelow,wheretherewasnomorehurryorconfusionthanatsuchamealinEngland,andwheretherewascertainlygreaterpolitenessexhibitedthanatmostofourstage-coachbanquets。Ataboutnineo'clockwearrivedattherailroadstation,andwentonbythecars。Atnoonweturnedoutagain,tocrossawideriverinanothersteamboat;
  landedatacontinuationoftherailroadontheoppositeshore;andwentonbyothercars;inwhich,inthecourseofthenexthourorso,wecrossedbywoodenbridges,eachamileinlength,twocreeks,calledrespectivelyGreatandLittleGunpowder。Thewaterinbothwasblackenedwithflightsofcanvas-backedducks,whicharemostdeliciouseating,andaboundhereaboutsatthatseasonoftheyear。
  Thesebridgesareofwood,havenoparapet,andareonlyjustwideenoughforthepassageofthetrains;which,intheeventofthesmallestaccident,woundinevitablybeplungedintotheriver。
  Theyarestartlingcontrivances,andaremostagreeablewhenpassed。
  WestoppedtodineatBaltimore,andbeingnowinMaryland,werewaitedon,forthefirsttime,byslaves。Thesensationofexactinganyservicefromhumancreatureswhoareboughtandsold,andbeing,forthetime,apartyasitweretotheircondition,isnotanenviableone。Theinstitutionexists,perhaps,initsleastrepulsiveandmostmitigatedforminsuchatownasthis;butitIS
  slavery;andthoughIwas,withrespecttoit,aninnocentman,itspresencefilledmewithasenseofshameandself-reproach。
  Afterdinner,wewentdowntotherailroadagain,andtookourseatsinthecarsforWashington。Beingratherearly,thosemenandboyswhohappenedtohavenothingparticulartodo,andwerecuriousinforeigners,cameaccordingtocustomroundthecarriageinwhichIsat;letdownallthewindows;thrustintheirheadsandshoulders;hookedthemselvesonconveniently,bytheirelbows;andfelltocomparingnotesonthesubjectofmypersonalappearance,withasmuchindifferenceasifIwereastuffedfigure。Inevergainedsomuchuncompromisinginformationwithreferencetomyownnoseandeyes,andvariousimpressionswroughtbymymouthandchinondifferentminds,andhowmyheadlookswhenitisviewedfrombehind,asontheseoccasions。Somegentlemenwereonlysatisfiedbyexercisingtheirsenseoftouch;andtheboyswhoaresurprisinglyprecociousinAmericawereseldomsatisfied,evenbythat,butwouldreturntothechargeoverandoveragain。Manyabuddingpresidenthaswalkedintomyroomwithhiscaponhisheadandhishandsinhispockets,andstaredatmefortwowholehours:occasionallyrefreshinghimselfwithatweakofhisnose,oradraughtfromthewater-jug;orbywalkingtothewindowsandinvitingotherboysinthestreetbelow,tocomeupanddolikewise:crying,'Hereheis!''Comeon!''Bringallyourbrothers!'withotherhospitableentreatiesofthatnature。
  WereachedWashingtonatabouthalf-pastsixthatevening,andhaduponthewayabeautifulviewoftheCapitol,whichisafinebuildingoftheCorinthianorder,placeduponanobleandcommandingeminence。Arrivedatthehotel;Isawnomoreoftheplacethatnight;beingverytired,andgladtogettobed。
  Breakfastovernextmorning,Iwalkaboutthestreetsforanhourortwo,and,cominghome,throwupthewindowinthefrontandback,andlookout。HereisWashington,freshinmymindandundermyeye。
  TaketheworstpartsoftheCityRoadandPentonville,orthestragglingoutskirtsofParis,wherethehousesaresmallest,preservingalltheiroddities,butespeciallythesmallshopsanddwellings,occupiedinPentonvillebutnotinWashingtonbyfurniture-brokers,keepersofpooreating-houses,andfanciersofbirds。Burnthewholedown;builditupagaininwoodandplaster;
  widenitalittle;throwinpartofSt。John'sWood;putgreenblindsoutsidealltheprivatehouses,witharedcurtainandawhiteoneineverywindow;ploughupalltheroads;plantagreatdealofcoarseturfineveryplacewhereitoughtNOTtobe;erectthreehandsomebuildingsinstoneandmarble,anywhere,butthemoreentirelyoutofeverybody'swaythebetter;callonethePostOffice;onethePatentOffice,andonetheTreasury;makeitscorchinghotinthemorning,andfreezingcoldintheafternoon,withanoccasionaltornadoofwindanddust;leaveabrick-fieldwithoutthebricks,inallcentralplaceswhereastreetmaynaturallybeexpected:andthat'sWashington。
  Thehotelinwhichwelive,isalongrowofsmallhousesfrontingonthestreet,andopeningatthebackuponacommonyard,inwhichhangsagreattriangle。Wheneveraservantiswanted,somebodybeatsonthistrianglefromonestrokeuptoseven,accordingtothenumberofthehouseinwhichhispresenceisrequired;andasalltheservantsarealwaysbeingwanted,andnoneofthemevercome,thisenliveningengineisinfullperformancethewholedaythrough。Clothesaredryinginthesameyard;femaleslaves,withcottonhandkerchiefstwistedroundtheirheadsarerunningtoandfroonthehotelbusiness;blackwaiterscrossandrecrosswithdishesintheirhands;twogreatdogsareplayinguponamoundofloosebricksinthecentreofthelittlesquare;apigisturninguphisstomachtothesun,andgrunting'that'scomfortable!';andneitherthemen,northewomen,northedogs,northepig,noranycreatedcreature,takesthesmallestnoticeofthetriangle,whichistinglingmadlyallthetime。
  Iwalktothefrontwindow,andlookacrosstheroaduponalong,stragglingrowofhouses,onestoryhigh,terminating,nearlyopposite,butalittletotheleft,inamelancholypieceofwastegroundwithfrowzygrass,whichlookslikeasmallpieceofcountrythathastakentodrinking,andhasquitelostitself。Standinganyhowandallwrong,uponthisopenspace,likesomethingmeteoricthathasfallendownfromthemoon,isanodd,lop-sided,one-eyedkindofwoodenbuilding,thatlookslikeachurch,withaflag-
  staffaslongasitselfstickingoutofasteeplesomethinglargerthanatea-chest。Underthewindowisasmallstandofcoaches,whoseslave-driversaresunningthemselvesonthestepsofourdoor,andtalkingidlytogether。Thethreemostobtrusivehousesnearathandarethethreemeanest。Onone-ashop,whichneverhasanythinginthewindow,andneverhasthedooropen-ispaintedinlargecharacters,'THECITYLUNCH。'Atanother,whichlookslikeabackwaytosomewhereelse,butisanindependentbuildinginitself,oystersareprocurableineverystyle。Atthethird,whichisavery,verylittletailor'sshop,pantsarefixedtoorder;orinotherwords,pantaloonsaremadetomeasure。AndthatisourstreetinWashington。
  ItissometimescalledtheCityofMagnificentDistances,butitmightwithgreaterproprietybetermedtheCityofMagnificentIntentions;foritisonlyontakingabird's-eyeviewofitfromthetopoftheCapitol,thatonecanatallcomprehendthevastdesignsofitsprojector,anaspiringFrenchman。Spaciousavenues,thatbegininnothing,andleadnowhere;streets,mile-long,thatonlywanthouses,roadsandinhabitants;publicbuildingsthatneedbutapublictobecomplete;andornamentsofgreatthoroughfares,whichonlylackgreatthoroughfarestoornament-areitsleadingfeatures。Onemightfancytheseasonover,andmostofthehousesgoneoutoftownforeverwiththeirmasters。TotheadmirersofcitiesitisaBarmecideFeast:apleasantfieldfortheimaginationtorovein;amonumentraisedtoadeceasedproject,withnotevenalegibleinscriptiontorecorditsdepartedgreatness。
  Suchasitis,itislikelytoremain。ItwasoriginallychosenfortheseatofGovernment,asameansofavertingtheconflictingjealousiesandinterestsofthedifferentStates;andveryprobably,too,asbeingremotefrommobs:aconsiderationnottobeslighted,eveninAmerica。Ithasnotradeorcommerceofitsown:havinglittleornopopulationbeyondthePresidentandhisestablishment;themembersofthelegislaturewhoresidethereduringthesession;theGovernmentclerksandofficersemployedinthevariousdepartments;thekeepersofthehotelsandboarding-
  houses;andthetradesmenwhosupplytheirtables。Itisveryunhealthy。FewpeoplewouldliveinWashington,Itakeit,whowerenotobligedtoresidethere;andthetidesofemigrationandspeculation,thoserapidandregardlesscurrents,arelittlelikelytoflowatanytimetowardssuchdullandsluggishwater。
  TheprincipalfeaturesoftheCapitol,are,ofcourse,thetwohousesofAssembly。Butthereis,besides,inthecentreofthebuilding,afinerotunda,ninety-sixfeetindiameter,andninety-
  sixhigh,whosecircularwallisdividedintocompartments,ornamentedbyhistoricalpictures。Fourofthesehavefortheirsubjectsprominenteventsintherevolutionarystruggle。TheywerepaintedbyColonelTrumbull,himselfamemberofWashington'sstaffatthetimeoftheiroccurrence;fromwhichcircumstancetheyderiveapeculiarinterestoftheirown。InthissamehallMr。
  Greenough'slargestatueofWashingtonhasbeenlatelyplaced。Ithasgreatmeritsofcourse,butitstruckmeasbeingratherstrainedandviolentforitssubject。Icouldwish,however,tohaveseenitinabetterlightthanitcaneverbeviewedin,whereitstands。