Thetimeisoneo'clockatnoon。Thescene，aplacewherewearetostayanddine，onthisjourney。Thecoachdrivesuptothedoorofaninn。Thedayiswarm，andthereareseveralidlerslingeringaboutthetavern，andwaitingforthepublicdinner。Amongthem，isastoutgentlemaninabrownhat，swinginghimselftoandfroinarocking-chaironthepavement。
　　Asthecoachstops，agentlemaninastrawhatlooksoutofthewindow:
　　STRAWHAT。Tothestoutgentlemanintherocking-chair。I
　　reckonthat'sJudgeJefferson，an'tit？
　　BROWNHAT。Stillswinging；speakingveryslowly；andwithoutanyemotionwhatever。Yes，sir。
　　STRAWHAT。Warmweather，Judge。
　　BROWNHAT。Yes，sir。
　　STRAWHAT。Therewasasnapofcold，lastweek。
　　BROWNHAT。Yes，sir。
　　STRAWHAT。Yes，sir。
　　Apause。Theylookateachother，veryseriously。
　　STRAWHAT。Icalculateyou'llhavegotthroughthatcaseofthecorporation，Judge，bythistime，now？
　　BROWNHAT。Yes，sir。
　　STRAWHAT。Howdidtheverdictgo，sir？
　　BROWNHAT。Forthedefendant，sir。
　　STRAWHAT。Interrogatively。Yes，sir？
　　BROWNHAT。Affirmatively。Yes，sir。
　　BOTH。Musingly，aseachgazesdownthestreet。Yes，sir。
　　Anotherpause。Theylookateachotheragain，stillmoreseriouslythanbefore。
　　BROWNHAT。Thiscoachisratherbehinditstimeto-day，Iguess。
　　STRAWHAT。Doubtingly。Yes，sir。
　　BROWNHAT。Lookingathiswatch。Yes，sir；nighupontwohours。
　　STRAWHAT。Raisinghiseyebrowsinverygreatsurprise。Yes，sir!
　　BROWNHAT。Decisively，asheputsuphiswatch。Yes，sir。
　　ALLTHEOTHERINSIDEPASSENGERS。Amongthemselves。Yes，sir。
　　COACHMAN。Inaverysurlytone。Noitan't。
　　STRAWHAT。Tothecoachman。Well，Idon'tknow，sir。Wewereaprettytalltimecomingthatlastfifteenmile。That'safact。
　　Thecoachmanmakingnoreply，andplainlydecliningtoenterintoanycontroversyonasubjectsofarremovedfromhissympathiesandfeelings，anotherpassengersays，'Yes，sir；'andthegentlemaninthestrawhatinacknowledgmentofhiscourtesy，says'Yes，sir，'
　　tohim，inreturn。Thestrawhattheninquiresofthebrownhat，whetherthatcoachinwhichhethestrawhatthensits，isnotanewone？Towhichthebrownhatagainmakesanswer，'Yes，sir。'
　　STRAWHAT。Ithoughtso。Prettyloudsmellofvarnish，sir？
　　BROWNHAT。Yes，sir。
　　ALLTHEOTHERINSIDEPASSENGERS。Yes，sir。
　　BROWNHAT。Tothecompanyingeneral。Yes，sir。
　　Theconversationalpowersofthecompanyhavingbeenbythistimeprettyheavilytaxed，thestrawhatopensthedoorandgetsout；
　　andalltherestalightalso。Wedinesoonafterwardswiththeboardersinthehouse，andhavenothingtodrinkbutteaandcoffee。Astheyarebothverybadandthewaterisworse，Iaskforbrandy；butitisaTemperanceHotel，andspiritsarenottobehadforloveormoney。ThispreposterousforcingofunpleasantdrinksdownthereluctantthroatsoftravellersisnotatalluncommoninAmerica，butIneverdiscoveredthatthescruplesofsuchwincinglandlordsinducedthemtopreserveanyunusuallynicebalancebetweenthequalityoftheirfare，andtheirscaleofcharges:onthecontrary，Irathersuspectedthemofdiminishingtheoneandexaltingtheother，bywayofrecompenseforthelossoftheirprofitonthesaleofspirituousliquors。Afterall，perhaps，theplainestcourseforpersonsofsuchtenderconsciences，wouldbe，atotalabstinencefromtavern-keeping。
　　Dinnerover，wegetintoanothervehiclewhichisreadyatthedoorforthecoachhasbeenchangedintheinterval，andresumeourjourney；whichcontinuesthroughthesamekindofcountryuntilevening，whenwecometothetownwherewearetostopforteaandsupper；andhavingdeliveredthemailbagsatthePost-office，ridethroughtheusualwidestreet，linedwiththeusualstoresandhousesthedrapersalwayshavinghungupattheirdoor，bywayofsign，apieceofbrightredcloth，tothehotelwherethismealisprepared。Therebeingmanyboardershere，wesitdown，alargeparty，andaverymelancholyoneasusual。Butthereisabuxomhostessattheheadofthetable，andopposite，asimpleWelshschoolmasterwithhiswifeandchild；whocamehere，onaspeculationofgreaterpromisethanperformance，toteachtheclassics:andtheyaresufficientsubjectsofinterestuntilthemealisover，andanothercoachisready。Initwegoononcemore，lightedbyabrightmoon，untilmidnight；whenwestoptochangethecoachagain，andremainforhalfanhourorsoinamiserableroom，withablurredlithographofWashingtonoverthesmokyfire-place，andamightyjugofcoldwateronthetable:towhichrefreshmentthemoodypassengersdosoapplythemselvesthattheywouldseemtobe，oneandall，keenpatientsofDr。Sangrado。
　　Amongthemisaverylittleboy，whochewstobaccolikeaverybigone；andadroninggentleman，whotalksarithmeticallyandstatisticallyonallsubjects，frompoetrydownwards；andwhoalwaysspeaksinthesamekey，withexactlythesameemphasis，andwithverygravedeliberation。Hecameoutsidejustnow，andtoldmehowthattheuncleofacertainyoungladywhohadbeenspiritedawayandmarriedbyacertaincaptain，livedintheseparts；andhowthisunclewassovaliantandferociousthatheshouldn'twonderifheweretofollowthesaidcaptaintoEngland，'andshoothimdowninthestreetwhereverhefoundhim；'inthefeasibilityofwhichstrongmeasureI，beingforthemomentratherpronetocontradiction，fromfeelinghalfasleepandverytired，declinedtoacquiesce:assuringhimthatiftheuncledidresorttoit，orgratifiedanyotherlittlewhimofthelikenature，hewouldfindhimselfonemorningprematurelythrottledattheOldBailey:andthathewoulddowelltomakehiswillbeforehewent，ashewouldcertainlywantitbeforehehadbeeninBritainverylong。
　　Onwego，allnight，andby-and-bythedaybeginstobreak，andpresentlythefirstcheerfulraysofthewarmsuncomeslantingonusbrightly。Itshedsitslightuponamiserablewasteofsoddengrass，anddulltrees，andsqualidhuts，whoseaspectisforlornandgrievousinthelastdegree。Averydesertinthewood，whosegrowthofgreenisdankandnoxiouslikethatuponthetopofstandingwater:wherepoisonousfungusgrowsintherarefootprintontheoozyground，andsproutslikewitches'coral，fromthecrevicesinthecabinwallandfloor；itisahideousthingtolieupontheverythresholdofacity。Butitwaspurchasedyearsago，andastheownercannotbediscovered，theStatehasbeenunabletoreclaimit。Sothereitremains，inthemidstofcultivationandimprovement，likegroundaccursed，andmadeobsceneandrankbysomegreatcrime。
　　WereachedColumbusshortlybeforeseveno'clock，andstayedthere，torefresh，thatdayandnight:havingexcellentapartmentsinaverylargeunfinishedhotelcalledtheNeillHouse，whichwererichlyfittedwiththepolishedwoodoftheblackwalnut，andopenedonahandsomeporticoandstoneverandah，likeroomsinsomeItalianmansion。Thetowniscleanandpretty，andofcourseis'goingtobe'muchlarger。ItistheseatoftheStatelegislatureofOhio，andlaysclaim，inconsequence，tosomeconsiderationandimportance。
　　Therebeingnostage-coachnextday，upontheroadwewishedtotake，Ihired'anextra，'atareasonablechargetocarryustoTiffin；asmalltownfromwhencethereisarailroadtoSandusky。
　　Thisextrawasanordinaryfour-horsestage-coach，suchasIhavedescribed，changinghorsesanddrivers，asthestage-coachwould，butwasexclusivelyourownforthejourney。Toensureourhavinghorsesattheproperstations，andbeingincommodedbynostrangers，theproprietorssentanagentonthebox，whowastoaccompanyusthewholewaythrough；andthusattended，andbearingwithus，besides，ahamperfullofsavourycoldmeats，andfruit，andwine，westartedoffagaininhighspirits，athalf-pastsixo'clocknextmorning，verymuchdelightedtobebyourselves，anddisposedtoenjoyeventheroughestjourney。
　　Itwaswellforus，thatwewereinthishumour，fortheroadwewentoverthatday，wascertainlyenoughtohaveshakentempersthatwerenotresolutelyatSetFair，downtosomeinchesbelowStormy。Atonetimewewereallflungtogetherinaheapatthebottomofthecoach，andatanotherwewerecrushingourheadsagainsttheroof。Now，onesidewasdowndeepinthemire，andwewereholdingontotheother。Now，thecoachwaslyingonthetailsofthetwowheelers；andnowitwasrearingupintheair，inafranticstate，withallfourhorsesstandingonthetopofaninsurmountableeminence，lookingcoollybackatit，asthoughtheywouldsay'Unharnessus。Itcan'tbedone。'Thedriversontheseroads，whocertainlygetoverthegroundinamannerwhichisquitemiraculous，sotwistandturntheteamaboutinforcingapassage，corkscrewfashion，throughthebogsandswamps，thatitwasquiteacommoncircumstanceonlookingoutofthewindow，toseethecoachmanwiththeendsofapairofreinsinhishands，apparentlydrivingnothing，orplayingathorses，andtheleadersstaringatoneunexpectedlyfromthebackofthecoach，asiftheyhadsomeideaofgettingupbehind。Agreatportionofthewaywasoverwhatiscalledacorduroyroad，whichismadebythrowingtrunksoftreesintoamarsh，andleavingthemtosettlethere。Theveryslightestofthejoltswithwhichtheponderouscarriagefellfromlogtolog，wasenough，itseemed，tohavedislocatedallthebonesinthehumanbody。Itwouldbeimpossibletoexperienceasimilarsetofsensations，inanyothercircumstances，unlessperhapsinattemptingtogouptothetopofSt。Paul'sinanomnibus。Never，neveronce，thatday，wasthecoachinanyposition，attitude，orkindofmotiontowhichweareaccustomedincoaches。Neverdiditmakethesmallestapproachtoone'sexperienceoftheproceedingsofanysortofvehiclethatgoesonwheels。
　　Still，itwasafineday，andthetemperaturewasdelicious，andthoughwehadleftSummerbehindusinthewest，andwerefastleavingSpring，weweremovingtowardsNiagaraandhome。Wealightedinapleasantwoodtowardsthemiddleoftheday，dinedonafallentree，andleavingourbestfragmentswithacottager，andourworstwiththepigswhoswarminthispartofthecountrylikegrainsofsandonthesea-shore，tothegreatcomfortofourcommissariatinCanada，wewentforwardagain，gaily。
　　Asnightcameon，thetrackgrewnarrowerandnarrower，untilatlastitsolostitselfamongthetrees，thatthedriverseemedtofindhiswaybyinstinct。Wehadthecomfortofknowing，atleast，thattherewasnodangerofhisfallingasleep，foreverynowandthenawheelwouldstrikeagainstanunseenstumpwithsuchajerk，thathewasfaintoholdonprettytightandprettyquick，tokeephimselfuponthebox。Norwasthereanyreasontodreadtheleastdangerfromfuriousdriving，inasmuchasoverthatbrokengroundthehorseshadenoughtodotowalk；astoshying，therewasnoroomforthat；andaherdofwildelephantscouldnothaverunawayinsuchawood，withsuchacoachattheirheels。Sowestumbledalong，quitesatisfied。
　　ThesestumpsoftreesareacuriousfeatureinAmericantravelling。
　　Thevaryingillusionstheypresenttotheunaccustomedeyeasitgrowsdark，arequiteastonishingintheirnumberandreality。
　　Now，thereisaGrecianurnerectedinthecentreofalonelyfield；nowthereisawomanweepingatatomb；nowaverycommonplaceoldgentlemaninawhitewaistcoat，withathumbthrustintoeacharm-holeofhiscoat；nowastudentporingonabook；nowacrouchingnegro；now，ahorse，adog，acannon，anarmedman；ahunch-backthrowingoffhiscloakandsteppingforthintothelight。Theywereoftenasentertainingtomeassomanyglassesinamagiclantern，andnevertooktheirshapesatmybidding，butseemedtoforcethemselvesuponme，whetherIwouldorno；andstrangetosay，Isometimesrecognisedinthemcounterpartsoffiguresoncefamiliartomeinpicturesattachedtochildishbooks，forgottenlongago。
　　Itsoonbecametoodark，however，evenforthisamusement，andthetreesweresoclosetogetherthattheirdrybranchesrattledagainstthecoachoneitherside，andobligedusalltokeepourheadswithin。Itlightenedtoo，forthreewholehours；eachflashbeingverybright，andblue，andlong；andasthevividstreakscamedartinginamongthecrowdedbranches，andthethunderrolledgloomilyabovethetreetops，onecouldscarcelyhelpthinkingthattherewerebetterneighbourhoodsatsuchatimethanthickwoodsafforded。
　　Atlength，betweentenandeleveno'clockatnight，afewfeeblelightsappearedinthedistance，andUpperSandusky，anIndianvillage，whereweweretostaytillmorning，laybeforeus。
　　TheyweregonetobedatthelogInn，whichwastheonlyhouseofentertainmentintheplace，butsoonansweredtoourknocking，andgotsometeaforusinasortofkitchenorcommonroom，tapestriedwitholdnewspapers，pastedagainstthewall。Thebed-chambertowhichmywifeandIwereshown，wasalarge，low，ghostlyroom；
　　withaquantityofwitheredbranchesonthehearth，andtwodoorswithoutanyfastening，oppositetoeachother，bothopeningontheblacknightandwildcountry，andsocontrived，thatoneofthemalwaysblewtheotheropen:anoveltyindomesticarchitecture，whichIdonotremembertohaveseenbefore，andwhichIwassomewhatdisconcertedtohaveforcedonmyattentionaftergettingintobed，asIhadaconsiderablesumingoldforourtravellingexpenses，inmydressing-case。Someoftheluggage，however，piledagainstthepanels，soonsettledthisdifficulty，andmysleepwouldnothavebeenverymuchaffectedthatnight，Ibelieve，thoughithadfailedtodoso。
　　MyBostonfriendclimbeduptobed，somewhereintheroof，whereanotherguestwasalreadysnoringhugely。Butbeingbittenbeyondhispowerofendurance，heturnedoutagain，andfledforsheltertothecoach，whichwasairingitselfinfrontofthehouse。Thiswasnotaverypoliticstep，asitturnedout；forthepigsscentinghim，andlookinguponthecoachasakindofpiewithsomemannerofmeatinside，gruntedrounditsohideously，thathewasafraidtocomeoutagain，andlaythereshivering，tillmorning。
　　Norwasitpossibletowarmhim，whenhedidcomeout，bymeansofaglassofbrandy:forinIndianvillages，thelegislature，withaverygoodandwiseintention，forbidsthesaleofspiritsbytavernkeepers。Theprecaution，however，isquiteinefficacious，fortheIndiansneverfailtoprocureliquorofaworsekind，atadearerprice，fromtravellingpedlars。
　　ItisasettlementoftheWyandotIndianswhoinhabitthisplace。
　　Amongthecompanyatbreakfastwasamildoldgentleman，whohadbeenformanyyearsemployedbytheUnitedStatesGovernmentinconductingnegotiationswiththeIndians，andwhohadjustconcludedatreatywiththesepeoplebywhichtheyboundthemselves，inconsiderationofacertainannualsum，toremovenextyeartosomelandprovidedforthem，westoftheMississippi，andalittlewaybeyondSt。Louis。Hegavemeamovingaccountoftheirstrongattachmenttothefamiliarscenesoftheirinfancy，andinparticulartotheburial-placesoftheirkindred；andoftheirgreatreluctancetoleavethem。Hehadwitnessedmanysuchremovals，andalwayswithpain，thoughheknewthattheydepartedfortheirowngood。Thequestionwhetherthistribeshouldgoorstay，hadbeendiscussedamongthemadayortwobefore，inahuterectedforthepurpose，thelogsofwhichstilllayuponthegroundbeforetheinn。Whenthespeakingwasdone，theayesandnoeswererangedonoppositesides，andeverymaleadultvotedinhisturn。Themomenttheresultwasknown，theminorityalargeonecheerfullyyieldedtotherest，andwithdrewallkindofopposition。
　　WemetsomeofthesepoorIndiansafterwards，ridingonshaggyponies。Theyweresolikethemeanersortofgipsies，thatifI
　　couldhaveseenanyoftheminEngland，Ishouldhaveconcluded，asamatterofcourse，thattheybelongedtothatwanderingandrestlesspeople。
　　Leavingthistowndirectlyafterbreakfast，wepushedforwardagain，overaratherworseroadthanyesterday，ifpossible，andarrivedaboutnoonatTiffin，wherewepartedwiththeextra。Attwoo'clockwetooktherailroad；thetravellingonwhichwasveryslow，itsconstructionbeingindifferent，andthegroundwetandmarshy；andarrivedatSanduskyintimetodinethatevening。WeputupatacomfortablelittlehotelonthebrinkofLakeErie，laytherethatnight，andhadnochoicebuttowaittherenextday，untilasteamboatboundforBuffaloappeared。Thetown，whichwassluggishanduninterestingenough，wassomethinglikethebackofanEnglishwatering-place，outoftheseason。
　　Ourhost，whowasveryattentiveandanxioustomakeuscomfortable，wasahandsomemiddle-agedman，whohadcometothistownfromNewEngland，inwhichpartofthecountryhewas'raised。'WhenIsaythatheconstantlywalkedinandoutoftheroomwithhishaton；andstoppedtoconverseinthesamefree-and-
　　easystate；andlaydownonoursofa，andpulledhisnewspaperoutofhispocket，andreaditathisease；Imerelymentionthesetraitsascharacteristicofthecountry:notatallasbeingmatterofcomplaint，orashavingbeendisagreeabletome。I
　　shouldundoubtedlybeoffendedbysuchproceedingsathome，becausetheretheyarenotthecustom，andwheretheyarenot，theywouldbeimpertinencies；butinAmerica，theonlydesireofagood-
　　naturedfellowofthiskind，istotreathisguestshospitablyandwell；andIhadnomoreright，andIcantrulysaynomoredisposition，tomeasurehisconductbyourEnglishruleandstandard，thanIhadtoquarrelwithhimfornotbeingoftheexactstaturewhichwouldqualifyhimforadmissionintotheQueen'sgrenadierguards。AslittleinclinationhadItofindfaultwithafunnyoldladywhowasanupperdomesticinthisestablishment，andwho，whenshecametowaituponusatanymeal，satherselfdowncomfortablyinthemostconvenientchair，andproducingalargepintopickherteethwith，remainedperformingthatceremony，andsteadfastlyregardingusmeanwhilewithmuchgravityandcomposurenowandthenpressingustoeatalittlemore，untilitwastimetoclearaway。Itwasenoughforus，thatwhateverwewisheddonewasdonewithgreatcivilityandreadiness，andadesiretooblige，notonlyhere，buteverywhereelse；andthatallourwantswere，ingeneral，zealouslyanticipated。
　　Weweretakinganearlydinneratthishouse，onthedayafterourarrival，whichwasSunday，whenasteamboatcameinsight，andpresentlytouchedatthewharf。AssheprovedtobeonherwaytoBuffalo，wehurriedonboardwithallspeed，andsoonleftSanduskyfarbehindus。
　　Shewasalargevesseloffivehundredtons，andhandsomelyfittedup，thoughwithhigh-pressureengines；whichalwaysconveyedthatkindoffeelingtome，whichIshouldbelikelytoexperience，I
　　think，ifIhadlodgingsonthefirst-floorofapowder-mill。Shewasladenwithflour，somecasksofwhichcommoditywerestoreduponthedeck。Thecaptaincominguptohavealittleconversation，andtointroduceafriend，seatedhimselfastrideofoneofthesebarrels，likeaBacchusofprivatelife；andpullingagreatclasp-knifeoutofhispocket，beganto'whittle'itashetalked，byparingthinslicesofftheedges。Andhewhittledwithsuchindustryandheartygoodwill，thatbutforhisbeingcalledawayverysoon，itmusthavedisappearedbodily，andleftnothinginitsplacebutgristandshavings。
　　Aftercallingatoneortwoflatplaces，withlowdamsstretchingoutintothelake，whereonwerestumpylighthouses，likewindmillswithoutsails，thewholelookinglikeaDutchvignette，wecameatmidnighttoCleveland，wherewelayallnight，anduntilnineo'clocknextmorning。
　　Ientertainedquiteacuriosityinreferencetothisplace，fromhavingseenatSanduskyaspecimenofitsliteratureintheshapeofanewspaper，whichwasverystrongindeeduponthesubjectofLordAshburton'srecentarrivalatWashington，toadjustthepointsindisputebetweentheUnitedStatesGovernmentandGreatBritain:
　　informingitsreadersthatasAmericahad'whipped'Englandinherinfancy，andwhippedheragaininheryouth，soitwasclearlynecessarythatshemustwhipheronceagaininhermaturity；andpledgingitscredittoallTrueAmericans，thatifMr。Websterdidhisdutyintheapproachingnegotiations，andsenttheEnglishLordhomeagainindoublequicktime，theyshould，withintwoyears，sing'YankeeDoodleinHydePark，andHailColumbiainthescarletcourtsofWestminster!'Ifounditaprettytown，andhadthesatisfactionofbeholdingtheoutsideoftheofficeofthejournalfromwhichIhavejustquoted。Ididnotenjoythedelightofseeingthewitwhoinditedtheparagraphinquestion，butIhavenodoubtheisaprodigiousmaninhisway，andheldinhighreputebyaselectcircle。
　　Therewasagentlemanonboard，towhom，asIunintentionallylearnedthroughthethinpartitionwhichdividedourstate-roomfromthecabininwhichheandhiswifeconversedtogether，Iwasunwittinglytheoccasionofverygreatuneasiness。Idon'tknowwhyorwherefore，butIappearedtoruninhismindperpetually，andtodissatisfyhimverymuch。FirstofallIheardhimsay:
　　andthemostludicrouspartofthebusinesswas，thathesaiditinmyveryear，andcouldnothavecommunicatedmoredirectlywithme，ifhehadleaneduponmyshoulder，andwhisperedme:'Bozisonboardstill，mydear。'Afteraconsiderablepause，headded，complainingly，'Bozkeepshimselfveryclose；'whichwastrueenough，forIwasnotverywell，andwaslyingdown，withabook。
　　Ithoughthehaddonewithmeafterthis，butIwasdeceived；foralongintervalhavingelapsed，duringwhichIimaginehimtohavebeenturningrestlesslyfromsidetoside，andtryingtogotosleep；hebrokeoutagain，with'IsupposeTHATBozwillbewritingabookby-and-by，andputtingallournamesinit!'atwhichimaginaryconsequenceofbeingonboardaboatwithBoz，hegroaned，andbecamesilent。
　　WecalledatthetownofErie，ateighto'clockthatnight，andlaythereanhour。Betweenfiveandsixnextmorning，wearrivedatBuffalo，wherewebreakfasted；andbeingtooneartheGreatFallstowaitpatientlyanywhereelse，wesetoffbythetrain，thesamemorningatnineo'clock，toNiagara。
　　Itwasamiserableday；chillyandraw；adampmistfalling；andthetreesinthatnorthernregionquitebareandwintry。Wheneverthetrainhalted，Ilistenedfortheroar；andwasconstantlystrainingmyeyesinthedirectionwhereIknewtheFallsmustbe，fromseeingtheriverrollingontowardsthem；everymomentexpectingtobeholdthespray。Withinafewminutesofourstopping，notbefore，Isawtwogreatwhitecloudsrisingupslowlyandmajesticallyfromthedepthsoftheearth。Thatwasall。Atlengthwealighted:andthenforthefirsttime，Iheardthemightyrushofwater，andfeltthegroundtrembleunderneathmyfeet。
　　Thebankisverysteep，andwasslipperywithrain，andhalf-meltedice。IhardlyknowhowIgotdown，butIwassoonatthebottom，andclimbing，withtwoEnglishofficerswhowerecrossingandhadjoinedme，oversomebrokenrocks，deafenedbythenoise，half-
　　blindedbythespray，andwettotheskin。WewereatthefootoftheAmericanFall。Icouldseeanimmensetorrentofwatertearingheadlongdownfromsomegreatheight，buthadnoideaofshape，orsituation，oranythingbutvagueimmensity。
　　Whenwewereseatedinthelittleferry-boat，andwerecrossingtheswollenriverimmediatelybeforebothcataracts，Ibegantofeelwhatitwas:butIwasinamannerstunned，andunabletocomprehendthevastnessofthescene。ItwasnotuntilIcameonTableRock，andlooked-GreatHeaven，onwhatafallofbright-
　　greenwater!-thatitcameuponmeinitsfullmightandmajesty。
　　Then，whenIfelthowneartomyCreatorIwasstanding，thefirsteffect，andtheenduringone-instantandlasting-ofthetremendousspectacle，wasPeace。PeaceofMind，tranquillity，calmrecollectionsoftheDead，greatthoughtsofEternalRestandHappiness:nothingofgloomorterror。Niagarawasatoncestampeduponmyheart，anImageofBeauty；toremainthere，changelessandindelible，untilitspulsesceasetobeat，forever。
　　Oh，howthestrifeandtroubleofdailyliferecededfrommyview，andlessenedinthedistance，duringthetenmemorabledayswepassedonthatEnchantedGround!Whatvoicesspokefromoutthethunderingwater；whatfaces，fadedfromtheearth，lookedoutuponmefromitsgleamingdepths；whatHeavenlypromiseglistenedinthoseangels'tears，thedropsofmanyhues，thatshoweredaround，andtwinedthemselvesaboutthegorgeousarcheswhichthechangingrainbowsmade!
　　IneverstirredinallthattimefromtheCanadianside，whitherI
　　hadgoneatfirst。Inevercrossedtheriveragain；forIknewtherewerepeopleontheothershore，andinsuchaplaceitisnaturaltoshunstrangecompany。Towandertoandfroallday，andseethecataractsfromallpointsofview；tostandupontheedgeofthegreatHorse-ShoeFall，markingthehurriedwatergatheringstrengthasitapproachedtheverge，yetseeming，too，topausebeforeitshotintothegulfbelow；togazefromtheriver'slevelupatthetorrentasitcamestreamingdown；toclimbtheneighbouringheightsandwatchitthroughthetrees，andseethewreathingwaterintherapidshurryingontotakeitsfearfulplunge；tolingerintheshadowofthesolemnrocksthreemilesbelow；watchingtheriveras，stirredbynovisiblecause，itheavedandeddiedandawoketheechoes，beingtroubledyet，fardownbeneaththesurface，byitsgiantleap；tohaveNiagarabeforeme，lightedbythesunandbythemoon，redintheday'sdecline，andgreyaseveningslowlyfelluponit；tolookuponiteveryday，andwakeupinthenightandhearitsceaselessvoice:thiswasenough。
　　Ithinkineveryquietseasonnow，stilldothosewatersrollandleap，androarandtumble，alldaylong；stillaretherainbowsspanningthem，ahundredfeetbelow。Still，whenthesunisonthem，dotheyshineandglowlikemoltengold。Still，whenthedayisgloomy，dotheyfalllikesnow，orseemtocrumbleawaylikethefrontofagreatchalkcliff，orrolldowntherocklikedensewhitesmoke。Butalwaysdoesthemightystreamappeartodieasitcomesdown，andalwaysfromitsunfathomablegravearisesthattremendousghostofsprayandmistwhichisneverlaid:whichhashauntedthisplacewiththesamedreadsolemnitysinceDarknessbroodedonthedeep，andthatfirstfloodbeforetheDeluge-Light-camerushingonCreationatthewordofGod。
　　CHAPTERXV-INCANADA；TORONTO；KINGSTON；MONTREAL；QUEBEC；ST。
　　JOHN'S。INTHEUNITEDSTATESAGAIN；LEBANON；THESHAKERVILLAGE；
　　WESTPOINT
　　Iwishtoabstainfrominstitutinganycomparison，ordrawinganyparallelwhatever，betweenthesocialfeaturesoftheUnitedStatesandthoseoftheBritishPossessionsinCanada。Forthisreason，I
　　shallconfinemyselftoaverybriefaccountofourjourneyingsinthelatterterritory。
　　ButbeforeIleaveNiagara，ImustadverttoonedisgustingcircumstancewhichcanhardlyhaveescapedtheobservationofanydecenttravellerwhohasvisitedtheFalls。
　　OnTableRock，thereisacottagebelongingtoaGuide，wherelittlerelicsoftheplacearesold，andwherevisitorsregistertheirnamesinabookkeptforthepurpose。Onthewalloftheroominwhichagreatmanyofthesevolumesarepreserved，thefollowingrequestisposted:'Visitorswillpleasenotcopynorextracttheremarksandpoeticaleffusionsfromtheregistersandalbumskepthere。'
　　Butforthisintimation，Ishouldhaveletthemlieuponthetablesonwhichtheywerestrewnwithcarefulnegligence，likebooksinadrawing-room:beingquitesatisfiedwiththestupendoussillinessofcertainstanzaswithananti-climaxattheendofeach，whichwereframedandhunguponthewall。Curious，however，afterreadingthisannouncement，toseewhatkindofmorselsweresocarefullypreserved，Iturnedafewleaves，andfoundthemscrawledalloverwiththevilestandthefilthiestribaldrythateverhumanhogsdelightedin。
　　Itishumiliatingenoughtoknowthatthereareamongmenbrutessoobsceneandworthless，thattheycandelightinlayingtheirmiserableprofanationsupontheverystepsofNature'sgreatestaltar。Butthattheseshouldbehoardedupforthedelightoftheirfellow-swine，andkeptinapublicplacewhereanyeyesmayseethem，isadisgracetotheEnglishlanguageinwhichtheyarewrittenthoughIhopefewoftheseentrieshavebeenmadebyEnglishmen，andareproachtotheEnglishside，onwhichtheyarepreserved。
　　ThequartersofoursoldiersatNiagara，arefinelyandairilysituated。SomeofthemarelargedetachedhousesontheplainabovetheFalls，whichwereoriginallydesignedforhotels；andintheeveningtime，whenthewomenandchildrenwereleaningoverthebalconieswatchingthemenastheyplayedatballandothergamesuponthegrassbeforethedoor，theyoftenpresentedalittlepictureofcheerfulnessandanimationwhichmadeitquiteapleasuretopassthatway。
　　AtanygarrisonedpointwherethelineofdemarcationbetweenonecountryandanotherissoverynarrowasatNiagara，desertionfromtherankscanscarcelyfailtobeoffrequentoccurrence:anditmaybereasonablysupposedthatwhenthesoldiersentertainthewildestandmaddesthopesofthefortuneandindependencethatawaitthemontheotherside，theimpulsetoplaytraitor，whichsuchaplacesuggeststodishonestminds，isnotweakened。Butitveryrarelyhappensthatthemenwhododesert，arehappyorcontentedafterwards；andmanyinstanceshavebeenknowninwhichtheyhaveconfessedtheirgrievousdisappointment，andtheirearnestdesiretoreturntotheiroldserviceiftheycouldbutbeassuredofpardon，orlenienttreatment。Manyoftheircomrades，notwithstanding，dothelike，fromtimetotime；andinstancesoflossoflifeintheefforttocrosstheriverwiththisobject，arefarfrombeinguncommon。Severalmenweredrownedintheattempttoswimacross，notlongago；andone，whohadthemadnesstotrusthimselfuponatableasaraft，wassweptdowntothewhirlpool，wherehismangledbodyeddiedroundandroundsomedays。
　　IaminclinedtothinkthatthenoiseoftheFallsisverymuchexaggerated；andthiswillappearthemoreprobablewhenthedepthofthegreatbasininwhichthewaterisreceived，istakenintoaccount。Atnotimeduringourstaythere，wasthewindatallhighorboisterous，butweneverheardthem，threemilesoff，evenattheveryquiettimeofsunset，thoughweoftentried。
　　Queenston，atwhichplacethesteamboatsstartforTorontoorI
　　shouldrathersayatwhichplacetheycall，fortheirwharfisatLewiston，ontheoppositeshore，issituatedinadeliciousvalley，throughwhichtheNiagarariver，incolouraverydeepgreen，pursuesitscourse。Itisapproachedbyaroadthattakesitswindingwayamongtheheightsbywhichthetownissheltered；
　　andseenfromthispointisextremelybeautifulandpicturesque。
　　OnthemostconspicuousoftheseheightsstoodamonumenterectedbytheProvincialLegislatureinmemoryofGeneralBrock，whowasslaininabattlewiththeAmericanforces，afterhavingwonthevictory。Somevagabond，supposedtobeafellowofthenameofLett，whoisnow，orwholatelywas，inprisonasafelon，blewupthismonumenttwoyearsago，anditisnowamelancholyruin，withalongfragmentofironrailinghangingdejectedlyfromitstop，andwavingtoandfrolikeawildivybranchorbrokenvinestem。
　　Itisofmuchhigherimportancethanitmayseem，thatthisstatueshouldberepairedatthepubliccost，asitoughttohavebeenlongago。Firstly，becauseitisbeneaththedignityofEnglandtoallowamemorialraisedinhonourofoneofherdefenders，toremaininthiscondition，ontheveryspotwherehedied。
　　Secondly，becausethesightofitinitspresentstate，andtherecollectionoftheunpunishedoutragewhichbroughtittothispass，isnotverylikelytosoothedownborderfeelingsamongEnglishsubjectshere，orcomposetheirborderquarrelsanddislikes。
　　Iwasstandingonthewharfatthisplace，watchingthepassengersembarkinginasteamboatwhichprecededthatwhosecomingweawaited，andparticipatingintheanxietywithwhichasergeant'swifewascollectingherfewgoodstogether-keepingonedistractedeyehardupontheporters，whowerehurryingthemonboard，andtheotheronahooplesswashing-tubforwhich，asbeingthemostutterlyworthlessofallhermovables，sheseemedtoentertainparticularaffection-whenthreeorfoursoldierswitharecruitcameupandwentonboard。
　　Therecruitwasalikelyyoungfellowenough，stronglybuiltandwellmade，butbynomeanssober:indeedhehadalltheairofamanwhohadbeenmoreorlessdrunkforsomedays。Hecarriedasmallbundleoverhisshoulder，slungattheendofawalking-
　　stick，andhadashortpipeinhismouth。Hewasasdustyanddirtyasrecruitsusuallyare，andhisshoesbetokenedthathehadtravelledonfootsomedistance，buthewasinaveryjocosestate，andshookhandswiththissoldier，andclappedthatoneontheback，andtalkedandlaughedcontinually，likearoaringidledogashewas。
　　Thesoldiersratherlaughedatthisbladethanwithhim:seemingtosay，astheystoodstraighteningtheircanesintheirhands，andlookingcoollyathimovertheirglazedstocks，'Goon，myboy，whileyoumay!you'llknowbetterby-and-by:'whensuddenlythenovice，whohadbeenbackingtowardsthegangwayinhisnoisymerriment，felloverboardbeforetheireyes，andsplashedheavilydownintotheriverbetweenthevesselandthedock。
　　Ineversawsuchagoodthingasthechangethatcameoverthesesoldiersinaninstant。Almostbeforethemanwasdown，theirprofessionalmanner，theirstiffnessandconstraint，weregone，andtheywerefilledwiththemostviolentenergy。Inlesstimethanisrequiredtotellit，theyhadhimoutagain，feetfirst，withthetailsofhiscoatflappingoverhiseyes，everythingabouthimhangingthewrongway，andthewaterstreamingoffateverythreadinhisthreadbaredress。Butthemomenttheysethimuprightandfoundthathewasnonetheworse，theyweresoldiersagain，lookingovertheirglazedstocksmorecomposedlythanever。
　　Thehalf-soberedrecruitglancedroundforamoment，asifhisfirstimpulseweretoexpresssomegratitudeforhispreservation，butseeingthemwiththisairoftotalunconcern，andhavinghiswetpipepresentedtohimwithanoathbythesoldierwhohadbeenbyfarthemostanxiousoftheparty，hestuckitinhismouth，thrusthishandsintohismoistpockets，andwithoutevenshakingthewateroffhisclothes，walkedonboardwhistling；nottosayasifnothinghadhappened，butasifhehadmeanttodoit，andithadbeenaperfectsuccess。
　　Oursteamboatcameupdirectlythishadleftthewharf，andsoonboreustothemouthoftheNiagara；wherethestarsandstripesofAmericaflutterononesideandtheUnionJackofEnglandontheother:andsonarrowisthespacebetweenthemthatthesentinelsineitherfortcanoftenhearthewatchwordoftheothercountrygiven。ThenceweemergedonLakeOntario，aninlandsea；andbyhalf-pastsixo'clockwereatToronto。
　　Thecountryroundthistownbeingveryflat，isbareofscenicinterest；butthetownitselfisfulloflifeandmotion，bustle，business，andimprovement。Thestreetsarewellpaved，andlightedwithgas；thehousesarelargeandgood；theshopsexcellent。Manyofthemhaveadisplayofgoodsintheirwindows，suchasmaybeseeninthrivingcountytownsinEngland；andtherearesomewhichwoulddonodiscredittothemetropolisitself。Thereisagoodstoneprisonhere；andthereare，besides，ahandsomechurch，acourt-house，publicoffices，manycommodiousprivateresidences，andagovernmentobservatoryfornotingandrecordingthemagneticvariations。IntheCollegeofUpperCanada，whichisoneofthepublicestablishmentsofthecity，asoundeducationineverydepartmentofpolitelearningcanbehad，ataverymoderateexpense:theannualchargefortheinstructionofeachpupil，notexceedingninepoundssterling。Ithasprettygoodendowmentsinthewayofland，andisavaluableandusefulinstitution。
　　Thefirststoneofanewcollegehadbeenlaidbutafewdaysbefore，bytheGovernorGeneral。Itwillbeahandsome，spaciousedifice，approachedbyalongavenue，whichisalreadyplantedandmadeavailableasapublicwalk。Thetowniswelladaptedforwholesomeexerciseatallseasons，forthefootwaysinthethoroughfareswhichliebeyondtheprincipalstreet，areplankedlikefloors，andkeptinverygoodandcleanrepair。
　　Itisamatterofdeepregretthatpoliticaldifferencesshouldhaverunhighinthisplace，andledtomostdiscreditableanddisgracefulresults。Itisnotlongsincegunsweredischargedfromawindowinthistownatthesuccessfulcandidatesinanelection，andthecoachmanofoneofthemwasactuallyshotinthebody，thoughnotdangerouslywounded。Butonemanwaskilledonthesameoccasion；andfromtheverywindowwhencehereceivedhisdeath，theveryflagwhichshieldedhismurderernotonlyinthecommissionofhiscrime，butfromitsconsequences，wasdisplayedagainontheoccasionofthepublicceremonyperformedbytheGovernorGeneral，towhichIhavejustadverted。Ofallthecoloursintherainbow，thereisbutonewhichcouldbesoemployed:Ineednotsaythatflagwasorange。
　　ThetimeofleavingTorontoforKingstonisnoon。Byeighto'clocknextmorning，thetravellerisattheendofhisjourney，whichisperformedbysteamboatuponLakeOntario，callingatPortHopeandCoburg，thelatteracheerful，thrivinglittletown。Vastquantitiesofflourformthechiefiteminthefreightofthesevessels。Wehadnofewerthanonethousandandeightybarrelsonboard，betweenCoburgandKingston。
　　Thelatterplace，whichisnowtheseatofgovernmentinCanada，isaverypoortown，renderedstillpoorerintheappearanceofitsmarket-placebytheravagesofarecentfire。Indeed，itmaybesaidofKingston，thatonehalfofitappearstobeburntdown，andtheotherhalfnottobebuiltup。TheGovernmentHouseisneitherelegantnorcommodious，yetitisalmosttheonlyhouseofanyimportanceintheneighbourhood。
　　Thereisanadmirablejailhere，wellandwiselygoverned，andexcellentlyregulated，ineveryrespect。Themenwereemployedasshoemakers，ropemakers，blacksmiths，tailors，carpenters，andstonecutters；andinbuildinganewprison，whichwasprettyfaradvancedtowardscompletion。Thefemaleprisonerswereoccupiedinneedlework。Amongthemwasabeautifulgirloftwenty，whohadbeentherenearlythreeyears。Sheactedasbearerofsecretdespatchesfortheself-styledPatriotsonNavyIsland，duringtheCanadianInsurrection:sometimesdressingasagirl，andcarryingtheminherstays；sometimesattiringherselfasaboy，andsecretingthemintheliningofherhat。Inthelattercharactershealwaysrodeasaboywould，whichwasnothingtoher，forshecouldgovernanyhorsethatanymancouldride，andcoulddrivefour-in-handwiththebestwhipinthoseparts。Settingforthononeofherpatrioticmissions，sheappropriatedtoherselfthefirsthorseshecouldlayherhandson；andthisoffencehadbroughtherwhereIsawher。Shehadquitealovelyface，though，asthereadermaysupposefromthissketchofherhistory，therewasalurkingdevilinherbrighteye，whichlookedoutprettysharplyfrombetweenherprisonbars。
　　Thereisabomb-proofforthereofgreatstrength，whichoccupiesaboldposition，andiscapable，doubtless，ofdoinggoodservice；
　　thoughthetownismuchtoocloseuponthefrontiertobelongheld，Ishouldimagine，foritspresentpurposeintroubledtimes。
　　Thereisalsoasmallnavy-yard，whereacoupleofGovernmentsteamboatswerebuilding，andgettingonvigorously。
　　WeleftKingstonforMontrealonthetenthofMay，athalf-pastnineinthemorning，andproceededinasteamboatdowntheSt。
　　Lawrenceriver。Thebeautyofthisnoblestreamatalmostanypoint，butespeciallyinthecommencementofthisjourneywhenitwindsitswayamongthethousandIslands，canhardlybeimagined。
　　Thenumberandconstantsuccessionsoftheseislands，allgreenandrichlywooded；theirfluctuatingsizes，somesolargethatforhalfanhourtogetheroneamongthemwillappearastheoppositebankoftheriver，andsomesosmallthattheyaremeredimplesonitsbroadbosom；theirinfinitevarietyofshapes；andthenumberlesscombinationsofbeautifulformswhichthetreesgrowingonthempresent:allformapicturefraughtwithuncommoninterestandpleasure。
　　Intheafternoonweshotdownsomerapidswheretheriverboiledandbubbledstrangely，andwheretheforceandheadlongviolenceofthecurrentweretremendous。Atseveno'clockwereachedDickenson'sLanding，whencetravellersproceedfortwoorthreehoursbystage-coach:thenavigationoftheriverbeingrenderedsodangerousanddifficultintheinterval，byrapids，thatsteamboatsdonotmakethepassage。ThenumberandlengthofthosePORTAGES，overwhichtheroadsarebad，andthetravellingslow，renderthewaybetweenthetownsofMontrealandKingston，somewhattedious。
　　Ourcourselayoverawide，uninclosedtractofcountryatalittledistancefromtheriver-side，whencethebrightwarninglightsonthedangerouspartsoftheSt。Lawrenceshonevividly。Thenightwasdarkandraw，andthewaydrearyenough。Itwasnearlyteno'clockwhenwereachedthewharfwherethenextsteamboatlay；andwentonboard，andtobed。
　　Shelaythereallnight，andstartedassoonasitwasday。Themorningwasusheredinbyaviolentthunderstorm，andwasverywet，butgraduallyimprovedandbrightenedup。Goingondeckafterbreakfast，Iwasamazedtoseefloatingdownwiththestream，amostgiganticraft，withsomethirtyorfortywoodenhousesuponit，andatleastasmanyflag-masts，sothatitlookedlikeanauticalstreet。Isawmanyoftheseraftsafterwards，butneveronesolarge。Allthetimber，or'lumber，'asitiscalledinAmerica，whichisbroughtdowntheSt。Lawrence，isfloateddowninthismanner。Whentheraftreachesitsplaceofdestination，itisbrokenup；thematerialsaresold；andtheboatmenreturnformore。
　　Ateightwelandedagain，andtravelledbyastage-coachforfourhoursthroughapleasantandwell-cultivatedcountry，perfectlyFrenchineveryrespect:intheappearanceofthecottages；theair，language，anddressofthepeasantry；thesign-boardsontheshopsandtaverns:andtheVirgin'sshrines，andcrosses，bythewayside。Nearlyeverycommonlabourerandboy，thoughhehadnoshoestohisfeet，woreroundhiswaistasashofsomebrightcolour:generallyred:andthewomen，whowereworkinginthefieldsandgardens，anddoingallkindsofhusbandry，wore，oneandall，greatflatstrawhatswithmostcapaciousbrims。TherewereCatholicPriestsandSistersofCharityinthevillagestreets；andimagesoftheSaviouratthecornersofcross-roads，andinotherpublicplaces。
　　Atnoonwewentonboardanothersteamboat，andreachedthevillageofLachine，ninemilesfromMontreal，bythreeo'clock。There，welefttheriver，andwentonbyland。
　　MontrealispleasantlysituatedonthemarginoftheSt。Lawrence，andisbackedbysomeboldheights，aboutwhichtherearecharmingridesanddrives。Thestreetsaregenerallynarrowandirregular，asinmostFrenchtownsofanyage；butinthemoremodernpartsofthecity，theyarewideandairy。Theydisplayagreatvarietyofverygoodshops；andbothinthetownandsuburbstherearemanyexcellentprivatedwellings。Thegranitequaysareremarkablefortheirbeauty，solidity，andextent。
　　ThereisaverylargeCatholiccathedralhere，recentlyerectedwithtwotallspires，ofwhichoneisyetunfinished。Intheopenspaceinfrontofthisedifice，standsasolitary，grim-looking，squarebricktower，whichhasaquaintandremarkableappearance，andwhichthewiseacresoftheplacehaveconsequentlydeterminedtopulldownimmediately。TheGovernmentHouseisverysuperiortothatatKingston，andthetownisfulloflifeandbustle。Inoneofthesuburbsisaplankroad-notfootpath-fiveorsixmileslong，andafamousroaditistoo。Alltheridesinthevicinityweremadedoublyinterestingbytheburstingoutofspring，whichisheresorapid，thatitisbutaday'sleapfrombarrenwinter，tothebloomingyouthofsummer。
　　ThesteamboatstoQuebecperformthejourneyinthenight；thatistosay，theyleaveMontrealatsixintheevening，andarriveatQuebecatsixnextmorning。WemadethisexcursionduringourstayinMontrealwhichexceededafortnight，andwerecharmedbyitsinterestandbeauty。
　　TheimpressionmadeuponthevisitorbythisGibraltarofAmerica:
　　itsgiddyheights；itscitadelsuspended，asitwere，intheair；
　　itspicturesquesteepstreetsandfrowninggateways；andthesplendidviewswhichburstupontheeyeateveryturn:isatonceuniqueandlasting。
　　Itisaplacenottobeforgottenormixedupinthemindwithotherplaces，oralteredforamomentinthecrowdofscenesatravellercanrecall。Apartfromtherealitiesofthismostpicturesquecity，thereareassociationsclusteringaboutitwhichwouldmakeadesertrichininterest。Thedangerousprecipicealongwhoserockyfront，Wolfeandhisbravecompanionsclimbedtoglory；thePlainsofAbraham，wherehereceivedhismortalwound；
　　thefortresssochivalrouslydefendedbyMontcalm；andhissoldier'sgrave，dugforhimwhileyetalive，bytheburstingofashell；arenottheleastamongthem，oramongthegallantincidentsofhistory。ThatisanobleMonumenttoo，andworthyoftwogreatnations，whichperpetuatesthememoryofbothbravegenerals，andonwhichtheirnamesarejointlywritten。
　　ThecityisrichinpublicinstitutionsandinCatholicchurchesandcharities，butitismainlyintheprospectfromthesiteoftheOldGovernmentHouse，andfromtheCitadel，thatitssurpassingbeautylies。Theexquisiteexpanseofcountry，richinfieldandforest，mountain-heightandwater，whichliesstretchedoutbeforetheview，withmilesofCanadianvillages，glancinginlongwhitestreaks，likeveinsalongthelandscape；themotleycrowdofgables，roofs，andchimneytopsintheoldhillytownimmediatelyathand；thebeautifulSt。Lawrencesparklingandflashinginthesunlight；andthetinyshipsbelowtherockfromwhichyougaze，whosedistantrigginglookslikespiders'websagainstthelight，whilecasksandbarrelsontheirdecksdwindleintotoys，andbusymarinersbecomesomanypuppets；allthis，framedbyasunkenwindowinthefortressandlookedatfromtheshadowedroomwithin，formsoneofthebrightestandmostenchantingpicturesthattheeyecanrestupon。
　　Inthespringoftheyear，vastnumbersofemigrantswhohavenewlyarrivedfromEnglandorfromIreland，passbetweenQuebecandMontrealontheirwaytothebackwoodsandnewsettlementsofCanada。IfitbeanentertainingloungeasIveryoftenfoundit
　　totakeamorningstrolluponthequayatMontreal，andseethemgroupedinhundredsonthepublicwharfsabouttheirchestsandboxes，itismatterofdeepinteresttobetheirfellow-passengerononeofthesesteamboats，andminglingwiththeconcourse，seeandhearthemunobserved。
　　ThevesselinwhichwereturnedfromQuebectoMontrealwascrowdedwiththem，andatnighttheyspreadtheirbedsbetweendecksthosewhohadbeds，atleast，andsleptsocloseandthickaboutourcabindoor，thatthepassagetoandfrowasquiteblockedup。TheywerenearlyallEnglish；fromGloucestershirethegreaterpart；andhadhadalongwinter-passageout；butitwaswonderfultoseehowcleanthechildrenhadbeenkept，andhowuntiringintheirloveandself-denialallthepoorparentswere。
　　Cantaswemay，andasweshalltotheendofallthings，itisverymuchharderforthepoortobevirtuousthanitisfortherich；andthegoodthatisinthem，shinesthebrighterforit。Inmanyanoblemansionlivesaman，thebestofhusbandsandoffathers，whoseprivateworthinbothcapacitiesisjustlylaudedtotheskies。Butbringhimhere，uponthiscrowdeddeck。Stripfromhisfairyoungwifehersilkendressandjewels，unbindherbraidedhair，stampearlywrinklesonherbrow，pinchherpalecheekwithcareandmuchprivation，arrayherfadedformincoarselypatchedattire，lettherebenothingbuthislovetosetherforthordeckherout，andyoushallputittotheproofindeed。Sochangehisstationintheworld，thatheshallseeinthoseyoungthingswhoclimbabouthisknee:notrecordsofhiswealthandname:butlittlewrestlerswithhimforhisdailybread；somanypoachersonhisscantymeal；somanyunitstodividehiseverysumofcomfort，andfarthertoreduceitssmallamount。Inlieuoftheendearmentsofchildhoodinitssweetestaspect，heapuponhimallitspainsandwants，itssicknessesandills，itsfretfulness，caprice，andquerulousendurance:letitsprattlebe，notofengaginginfantfancies，butofcold，andthirst，andhunger:andifhisfatherlyaffectionoutliveallthis，andhebepatient，watchful，tender；
　　carefulofhischildren'slives，andmindfulalwaysoftheirjoysandsorrows；thensendhimbacktoParliament，andPulpit，andtoQuarterSessions，andwhenhehearsfinetalkofthedepravityofthosewholivefromhandtomouth，andlabourhardtodoit，lethimspeakup，asonewhoknows，andtellthoseholdersforththatthey，byparallelwithsuchaclass，shouldbeHighAngelsintheirdailylives，andlaybuthumblesiegetoHeavenatlast。
　　Whichofusshallsaywhathewouldbe，ifsuchrealities，withsmallrelieforchangeallthroughhisdays，werehis!Lookingrounduponthesepeople:farfromhome，houseless，indigent，wandering，wearywithtravelandhardliving:andseeinghowpatientlytheynursedandtendedtheiryoungchildren:howtheyconsultedevertheirwantsfirst，thenhalfsuppliedtheirown；
　　whatgentleministersofhopeandfaiththewomenwere；howthemenprofitedbytheirexample；andhowvery，veryseldomevenamoment'spetulanceorharshcomplaintbrokeoutamongthem:Ifeltastrongerloveandhonourofmykindcomeglowingonmyheart，andwishedtoGodtherehadbeenmanyAtheistsinthebetterpartofhumannaturethere，toreadthissimplelessoninthebookofLife。
　　WeleftMontrealforNewYorkagain，onthethirtiethofMay，crossingtoLaPrairie，ontheoppositeshoreoftheSt。Lawrence，inasteamboat；wethentooktherailroadtoSt。John's，whichisonthebrinkofLakeChamplain。OurlastgreetinginCanadawasfromtheEnglishofficersinthepleasantbarracksatthatplaceaclassofgentlemenwhohadmadeeveryhourofourvisitmemorablebytheirhospitalityandfriendship；andwith'RuleBritannia'
　　soundinginourears，soonleftitfarbehind。
　　ButCanadahasheld，andalwayswillretain，aforemostplaceinmyremembrance。FewEnglishmenarepreparedtofinditwhatitis。
　　Advancingquietly；olddifferencessettlingdown，andbeingfastforgotten；publicfeelingandprivateenterprisealikeinasoundandwholesomestate；nothingofflushorfeverinitssystem，buthealthandvigourthrobbinginitssteadypulse:itisfullofhopeandpromise。Tome-whohadbeenaccustomedtothinkofitassomethingleftbehindinthestridesofadvancingsociety，assomethingneglectedandforgotten，slumberingandwastinginitssleep-thedemandforlabourandtheratesofwages；thebusyquaysofMontreal；thevesselstakingintheircargoes，anddischargingthem；theamountofshippinginthedifferentports；