首页 >出版文学> AMERICAN NOTES>第2章

第2章

  Ifoundmyselfstanding,whenagleamofconsciousnesscameuponme,holdingontosomething。Idon'tknowwhat。Ithinkitwastheboatswain:oritmayhavebeenthepump:orpossiblythecow。
  Ican'tsayhowlongIhadbeenthere;whetheradayoraminute。
  Irecollecttryingtothinkaboutsomethingaboutanythinginthewholewideworld,Iwasnotparticularwithoutthesmallesteffect。Icouldnotevenmakeoutwhichwasthesea,andwhichthesky,forthehorizonseemeddrunk,andwasflyingwildlyaboutinalldirections。Eveninthatincapablestate,however,I
  recognisedthelazygentlemanstandingbeforeme:nauticallycladinasuitofshaggyblue,withanoilskinhat。ButIwastooimbecile,althoughIknewittobehe,toseparatehimfromhisdress;andtriedtocallhim,Iremember,PILOT。Afteranotherintervaloftotalunconsciousness,Ifoundhehadgone,andrecognisedanotherfigureinitsplace。ItseemedtowaveandfluctuatebeforemeasthoughIsawitreflectedinanunsteadylooking-glass;butIknewitforthecaptain;andsuchwasthecheerfulinfluenceofhisface,thatItriedtosmile:yes,eventhenItriedtosmile。Isawbyhisgesturesthatheaddressedme;
  butitwasalongtimebeforeIcouldmakeoutthatheremonstratedagainstmystandinguptomykneesinwater-asIwas;ofcourseI
  don'tknowwhy。Itriedtothankhim,butcouldn't。Icouldonlypointtomyboots-orwhereverIsupposedmybootstobe-andsayinaplaintivevoice,'Corksoles:'atthesametimeendeavouring,Iamtold,tositdowninthepool。FindingthatIwasquiteinsensible,andforthetimeamaniac,hehumanelyconductedmebelow。
  ThereIremaineduntilIgotbetter:suffering,wheneverIwasrecommendedtoeatanything,anamountofanguishonlysecondtothatwhichissaidtobeenduredbytheapparentlydrowned,intheprocessofrestorationtolife。OnegentlemanonboardhadaletterofintroductiontomefromamutualfriendinLondon。Hesentitbelowwithhiscard,onthemorningofthehead-wind;andI
  waslongtroubledwiththeideathathemightbeup,andwell,andahundredtimesadayexpectingmetocalluponhiminthesaloon。
  Iimaginedhimoneofthosecast-ironimages-Iwillnotcallthemmen-whoask,withredfaces,andlustyvoices,whatsea-sicknessmeans,andwhetheritreallyisasbadasitisrepresentedtobe。
  Thiswasverytorturingindeed;andIdon'tthinkIeverfeltsuchperfectgratificationandgratitudeofheart,asIdidwhenIheardfromtheship'sdoctorthathehadbeenobligedtoputalargemustardpoulticeonthisverygentleman'sstomach。Idatemyrecoveryfromthereceiptofthatintelligence。
  Itwasmateriallyassistedthough,Ihavenodoubt,byaheavygaleofwind,whichcameslowlyupatsunset,whenwewereabouttendaysout,andragedwithgraduallyincreasingfuryuntilmorning,savingthatitlulledforanhouralittlebeforemidnight。Therewassomethingintheunnaturalreposeofthathour,andintheaftergatheringofthestorm,soinconceivablyawfulandtremendous,thatitsburstingintofullviolencewasalmostarelief。
  ThelabouringoftheshipinthetroubledseaonthisnightIshallneverforget。'Williteverbeworsethanthis?'wasaquestionI
  hadoftenheardasked,wheneverythingwasslidingandbumpingabout,andwhenitcertainlydidseemdifficulttocomprehendthepossibilityofanythingafloatbeingmoredisturbed,withouttopplingoverandgoingdown。Butwhattheagitationofasteam-
  vesselis,onabadwinter'snightinthewildAtlantic,itisimpossibleforthemostvividimaginationtoconceive。Tosaythatsheisflungdownonhersideinthewaves,withhermastsdippingintothem,andthat,springingupagain,sherollsoverontheotherside,untilaheavyseastrikesherwiththenoiseofahundredgreatguns,andhurlsherback-thatshestops,andstaggers,andshivers,asthoughstunned,andthen,withaviolentthrobbingatherheart,dartsonwardlikeamonstergoadedintomadness,tobebeatendown,andbattered,andcrushed,andleapedonbytheangrysea-thatthunder,lightning,hail,andrain,andwind,areallinfiercecontentionforthemastery-thateveryplankhasitsgroan,everynailitsshriek,andeverydropofwaterinthegreatoceanitshowlingvoice-isnothing。Tosaythatallisgrand,andallappallingandhorribleinthelastdegree,isnothing。Wordscannotexpressit。Thoughtscannotconveyit。
  Onlyadreamcancallitupagain,inallitsfury,rage,andpassion。
  Andyet,intheverymidstoftheseterrors,Iwasplacedinasituationsoexquisitelyridiculous,thateventhenIhadasstrongasenseofitsabsurdityasIhavenow,andcouldnomorehelplaughingthanIcanatanyothercomicalincident,happeningundercircumstancesthemostfavourabletoitsenjoyment。Aboutmidnightweshippedasea,whichforceditswaythroughtheskylights,burstopenthedoorsabove,andcameragingandroaringdownintotheladies'cabin,totheunspeakableconsternationofmywifeandalittleScotchlady-who,bytheway,hadpreviouslysentamessagetothecaptainbythestewardess,requestinghim,withhercompliments,tohaveasteelconductorimmediatelyattachedtothetopofeverymast,andtothechimney,inorderthattheshipmightnotbestruckbylightning。Theyandthehandmaidbeforementioned,beinginsuchecstasiesoffearthatIscarcelyknewwhattodowiththem,Inaturallybethoughtmyselfofsomerestorativeorcomfortablecordial;andnothingbetteroccurringtome,atthemoment,thanhotbrandy-and-water,Iprocuredatumblerfullwithoutdelay。Itbeingimpossibletostandorsitwithoutholdingon,theywereallheapedtogetherinonecornerofalongsofa-afixtureextendingentirelyacrossthecabin-wheretheyclungtoeachotherinmomentaryexpectationofbeingdrowned。
  WhenIapproachedthisplacewithmyspecific,andwasabouttoadministeritwithmanyconsolatoryexpressionstothenearestsufferer,whatwasmydismaytoseethemallrollslowlydowntotheotherend!AndwhenIstaggeredtothatend,andheldouttheglassoncemore,howimmenselybaffledweremygoodintentionsbytheshipgivinganotherlurch,andtheirallrollingbackagain!I
  supposeIdodgedthemupanddownthissofaforatleastaquarterofanhour,withoutreachingthemonce;andbythetimeIdidcatchthem,thebrandy-and-waterwasdiminished,byconstantspilling,toateaspoonful。Tocompletethegroup,itisnecessarytorecogniseinthisdisconcerteddodger,anindividualverypalefromsea-
  sickness,whohadshavedhisbeardandbrushedhishair,last,atLiverpool:andwhoseonlyarticleofdresslinennotincluded
  wereapairofdreadnoughttrousers;abluejacket,formerlyadmiredupontheThamesatRichmond;nostockings;andoneslipper。
  Oftheoutrageousanticsperformedbythatshipnextmorning;whichmadebedapracticaljoke,andgettingup,byanyprocessshortoffallingout,animpossibility;Isaynothing。ButanythingliketheutterdrearinessanddesolationthatmetmyeyeswhenI
  literally'tumbledup'ondeckatnoon,Ineversaw。Oceanandskywereallofonedull,heavy,uniform,leadcolour。Therewasnoextentofprospectevenoverthedrearywastethatlayaroundus,forthesearanhigh,andthehorizonencompasseduslikealargeblackhoop。Viewedfromtheair,orsometallbluffonshore,itwouldhavebeenimposingandstupendous,nodoubt;butseenfromthewetandrollingdecks,itonlyimpressedonegiddilyandpainfully。Inthegaleoflastnightthelife-boathadbeencrushedbyoneblowofthesealikeawalnut-shell;andthereithungdanglingintheair:amerefaggotofcrazyboards。Theplankingofthepaddle-boxeshadbeentornsheeraway。Thewheelswereexposedandbare;andtheywhirledanddashedtheirsprayaboutthedecksatrandom。Chimney,whitewithcrustedsalt;
  topmastsstruck;storm-sailsset;riggingallknotted,tangled,wet,anddrooping:agloomierpictureitwouldbehardtolookupon。
  Iwasnowcomfortablyestablishedbycourtesyintheladies'cabin,where,besidesourselves,therewereonlyfourotherpassengers。
  First,thelittleScotchladybeforementioned,onherwaytojoinherhusbandatNewYork,whohadsettledtherethreeyearsbefore。
  Secondlyandthirdly,anhonestyoungYorkshireman,connectedwithsomeAmericanhouse;domiciledinthatsamecity,andcarryingthitherhisbeautifulyoungwifetowhomhehadbeenmarriedbutafortnight,andwhowasthefairestspecimenofacomelyEnglishcountrygirlIhaveeverseen。Fourthy,fifthly,andlastly,anothercouple:newlymarriedtoo,ifonemightjudgefromtheendearmentstheyfrequentlyinterchanged:ofwhomIknownomorethanthattheywereratheramysterious,run-awaykindofcouple;
  thattheladyhadgreatpersonalattractionsalso;andthatthegentlemancarriedmoregunswithhimthanRobinsonCrusoe,woreashooting-coat,andhadtwogreatdogsonboard。Onfurtherconsideration,Irememberthathetriedhotroastpigandbottledaleasacureforsea-sickness;andthathetooktheseremediesusuallyinbeddayafterday,withastonishingperseverance。I
  mayadd,fortheinformationofthecurious,thattheydecidedlyfailed。
  Theweathercontinuingobstinatelyandalmostunprecedentedlybad,weusuallystraggledintothiscabin,moreorlessfaintandmiserable,aboutanhourbeforenoon,andlaydownonthesofastorecover;duringwhichinterval,thecaptainwouldlookintocommunicatethestateofthewind,themoralcertaintyofitschangingto-morrowtheweatherisalwaysgoingtoimproveto-
  morrow,atsea,thevessel'srateofsailing,andsoforth。
  Observationstherewerenonetotellusof,fortherewasnosuntotakethemby。Butadescriptionofonedaywillserveforalltherest。Hereitis。
  Thecaptainbeinggone,wecomposeourselvestoread,iftheplacebelightenough;andifnot,wedozeandtalkalternately。Atone,abellrings,andthestewardesscomesdownwithasteamingdishofbakedpotatoes,andanotherofroastedapples;andplatesofpig'sface,coldham,saltbeef;orperhapsasmokingmessofrarehotcollops。Wefalltouponthesedainties;eatasmuchaswecanwehavegreatappetitesnow;andareaslongaspossibleaboutit。
  IfthefirewillburnitWILLsometimesweareprettycheerful。
  Ifitwon't,weallremarktoeachotherthatit'sverycold,rubourhands,coverourselveswithcoatsandcloaks,andliedownagaintodoze,talk,andreadprovidedasaforesaid,untildinner-time。Atfive,anotherbellrings,andthestewardessreappearswithanotherdishofpotatoes-boiledthistime-andstoreofhotmeatofvariouskinds:notforgettingtheroastpig,tobetakenmedicinally。Wesitdownattableagainrathermorecheerfullythanbefore;prolongthemealwitharathermouldydessertofapples,grapes,andoranges;anddrinkourwineandbrandy-and-water。Thebottlesandglassesarestilluponthetable,andtheorangesandsofortharerollingaboutaccordingtotheirfancyandtheship'sway,whenthedoctorcomesdown,byspecialnightlyinvitation,tojoinoureveningrubber:
  immediatelyonwhosearrivalwemakeapartyatwhist,andasitisaroughnightandthecardswillnotlieonthecloth,weputthetricksinourpocketsaswetakethem。Atwhistweremainwithexemplarygravitydeductingashorttimeforteaandtoastuntileleveno'clock,orthereabouts;whenthecaptaincomesdownagain,inasou'-westerhattiedunderhischin,andapilot-coat:makingthegroundwetwherehestands。Bythistimethecard-playingisover,andthebottlesandglassesareagainuponthetable;andafteranhour'spleasantconversationabouttheship,thepassengers,andthingsingeneral,thecaptainwhonevergoestobed,andisneveroutofhumourturnsuphiscoatcollarforthedeckagain;shakeshandsallround;andgoeslaughingoutintotheweatherasmerrilyastoabirthdayparty。
  Astodailynews,thereisnodearthofthatcommodity。ThispassengerisreportedtohavelostfourteenpoundsatVingt-et-uninthesaloonyesterday;andthatpassengerdrinkshisbottleofchampagneeveryday,andhowhedoesitbeingonlyaclerk,nobodyknows。Theheadengineerhasdistinctlysaidthatthereneverwassuchtimes-meaningweather-andfourgoodhandsareill,andhavegivenin,deadbeat。Severalberthsarefullofwater,andallthecabinsareleaky。Theship'scook,secretlyswiggingdamagedwhiskey,hasbeenfounddrunk;andhasbeenplayeduponbythefire-engineuntilquitesober。Allthestewardshavefallendown-stairsatvariousdinner-times,andgoaboutwithplastersinvariousplaces。Thebakerisill,andsoisthepastry-cook。Anewman,horriblyindisposed,hasbeenrequiredtofilltheplaceofthelatterofficer;andhasbeenproppedandjammedupwithemptycasksinalittlehouseupondeck,andcommandedtorolloutpie-crust,whichheprotestsbeinghighlybiliousitisdeathtohimtolookat。News!Adozenmurdersonshorewouldlacktheinterestoftheseslightincidentsatsea。
  Dividedbetweenourrubberandsuchtopicsasthese,wewererunningaswethoughtintoHalifaxHarbour,onthefifteenthnight,withlittlewindandabrightmoon-indeed,wehadmadetheLightatitsouterentrance,andputthepilotincharge-whensuddenlytheshipstruckuponabankofmud。Animmediaterushondecktookplaceofcourse;thesideswerecrowdedinaninstant;
  andforafewminuteswewereinaslivelyastateofconfusionasthegreatestloverofdisorderwoulddesiretosee。Thepassengers,andguns,andwater-casks,andotherheavymatters,beingallhuddledtogetheraft,however,tolightenherinthehead,shewassoongotoff;andaftersomedrivingontowardsanuncomfortablelineofobjectswhosevicinityhadbeenannouncedveryearlyinthedisasterbyaloudcryof'Breakersa-head!'andmuchbackingofpaddles,andheavingoftheleadintoaconstantlydecreasingdepthofwater,wedroppedanchorinastrangeoutlandish-lookingnookwhichnobodyonboardcouldrecognise,althoughtherewaslandallaboutus,andsoclosethatwecouldplainlyseethewavingbranchesofthetrees。
  Itwasstrangeenough,inthesilenceofmidnight,andthedeadstillnessthatseemedtobecreatedbythesuddenandunexpectedstoppageoftheenginewhichhadbeenclankingandblastinginourearsincessantlyforsomanydays,towatchthelookofblankastonishmentexpressedineveryface:beginningwiththeofficers,tracingitthroughallthepassengers,anddescendingtotheverystokersandfurnacemen,whoemergedfrombelow,onebyone,andclusteredtogetherinasmokygroupaboutthehatchwayoftheengine-room,comparingnotesinwhispers。Afterthrowingupafewrocketsandfiringsignalgunsinthehopeofbeinghailedfromtheland,oratleastofseeingalight-butwithoutanyothersightorsoundpresentingitself-itwasdeterminedtosendaboatonshore。Itwasamusingtoobservehowverykindsomeofthepassengerswere,involunteeringtogoashoreinthissameboat:
  forthegeneralgood,ofcourse:notbyanymeansbecausetheythoughttheshipinanunsafeposition,orcontemplatedthepossibilityofherheelingoverincasethetidewererunningout。
  Norwasitlessamusingtoremarkhowdesperatelyunpopularthepoorpilotbecameinoneshortminute。HehadhadhispassageoutfromLiverpool,andduringthewholevoyagehadbeenquiteanotoriouscharacter,asatellerofanecdotesandcrackerofjokes。
  Yethereweretheverymenwhohadlaughedtheloudestathisjests,nowflourishingtheirfistsinhisface,loadinghimwithimprecations,anddefyinghimtohisteethasavillain!
  Theboatsoonshovedoff,withalanternandsundrybluelightsonboard;andinlessthananhourreturned;theofficerincommandbringingwithhimatolerablytallyoungtree,whichhehadpluckedupbytheroots,tosatisfycertaindistrustfulpassengerswhosemindsmisgavethemthattheyweretobeimposeduponandshipwrecked,andwhowouldonnoothertermsbelievethathehadbeenashore,orhaddoneanythingbutfraudulentlyrowalittlewayintothemist,speciallytodeceivethemandcompasstheirdeaths。
  OurcaptainhadforeseenfromthefirstthatwemustbeinaplacecalledtheEasternpassage;andsowewere。Itwasaboutthelastplaceintheworldinwhichwehadanybusinessorreasontobe,butasuddenfog,andsomeerroronthepilot'spart,werethecause。Weweresurroundedbybanks,androcks,andshoalsofallkinds,buthadhappilydrifted,itseemed,upontheonlysafespeckthatwastobefoundthereabouts。Easedbythisreport,andbytheassurancethatthetidewaspasttheebb,weturnedinatthreeo'clockinthemorning。
  Iwasdressingabouthalf-pastninenextday,whenthenoiseabovehurriedmeondeck。WhenIhadleftitovernight,itwasdark,foggy,anddamp,andtherewerebleakhillsallroundus。Now,wewereglidingdownasmooth,broadstream,attherateofelevenmilesanhour:ourcoloursflyinggaily;ourcrewriggedoutintheirsmartestclothes;ourofficersinuniformagain;thesunshiningasonabrilliantAprildayinEngland;thelandstretchedoutoneitherside,streakedwithlightpatchesofsnow;whitewoodenhouses;peopleattheirdoors;telegraphsworking;flagshoisted;wharfsappearing;ships;quayscrowdedwithpeople;
  distantnoises;shouts;menandboysrunningdownsteepplacestowardsthepier:allmorebrightandgayandfreshtoourunusedeyesthanwordscanpaintthem。Wecametoawharf,pavedwithupliftedfaces;gotalongside,andweremadefast,aftersomeshoutingandstrainingofcables;darted,ascoreofusalongthegangway,almostassoonasitwasthrustouttomeetus,andbeforeithadreachedtheship-andleapeduponthefirmgladearthagain!
  IsupposethisHalifaxwouldhaveappearedanElysium,thoughithadbeenacuriosityofuglydulness。ButIcarriedawaywithmeamostpleasantimpressionofthetownanditsinhabitants,andhavepreservedittothishour。NorwasitwithoutregretthatIcamehome,withouthavingfoundanopportunityofreturningthither,andoncemoreshakinghandswiththefriendsImadethatday。
  IthappenedtobetheopeningoftheLegislativeCouncilandGeneralAssembly,atwhichceremonialtheformsobservedonthecommencementofanewSessionofParliamentinEnglandweresocloselycopied,andsogravelypresentedonasmallscale,thatitwaslikelookingatWestminsterthroughthewrongendofatelescope。Thegovernor,asherMajesty'srepresentative,deliveredwhatmaybecalledtheSpeechfromtheThrone。Hesaidwhathehadtosaymanfullyandwell。Themilitarybandoutsidethebuildingstruckup"GodsavetheQueen"withgreatvigourbeforehisExcellencyhadquitefinished;thepeopleshouted;thein'srubbedtheirhands;theout'sshooktheirheads;theGovernmentpartysaidthereneverwassuchagoodspeech;theOppositiondeclaredthereneverwassuchabadone;theSpeakerandmembersoftheHouseofAssemblywithdrewfromthebartosayagreatdealamongthemselvesanddoalittle:and,inshort,everythingwenton,andpromisedtogoon,justasitdoesathomeuponthelikeoccasions。
  Thetownisbuiltonthesideofahill,thehighestpointbeingcommandedbyastrongfortress,notyetquitefinished。Severalstreetsofgoodbreadthandappearanceextendfromitssummittothewater-side,andareintersectedbycrossstreetsrunningparallelwiththeriver。Thehousesarechieflyofwood。Themarketisabundantlysupplied;andprovisionsareexceedinglycheap。Theweatherbeingunusuallymildatthattimefortheseasonoftheyear,therewasnosleighing:buttherewereplentyofthosevehiclesinyardsandby-places,andsomeofthem,fromthegorgeousqualityoftheirdecorations,mighthave'goneon'
  withoutalterationastriumphalcarsinamelodramaatAstley's。
  Thedaywasuncommonlyfine;theairbracingandhealthful;thewholeaspectofthetowncheerful,thriving,andindustrious。
  Welaytheresevenhours,todeliverandexchangethemails。Atlength,havingcollectedallourbagsandallourpassengersincludingtwoorthreechoicespirits,who,havingindulgedtoofreelyinoystersandchampagne,werefoundlyinginsensibleontheirbacksinunfrequentedstreets,theengineswereagainputinmotion,andwestoodoffforBoston。
  EncounteringsquallyweatheragainintheBayofFundy,wetumbledandrolledaboutasusualallthatnightandallnextday。Onthenextafternoon,thatistosay,onSaturday,thetwenty-secondofJanuary,anAmericanpilot-boatcamealongside,andsoonafterwardstheBritanniasteam-packet,fromLiverpool,eighteendaysout,wastelegraphedatBoston。
  TheindescribableinterestwithwhichIstrainedmyeyes,asthefirstpatchesofAmericansoilpeepedlikemolehillsfromthegreensea,andfollowedthem,astheyswelled,byslowandalmostimperceptibledegrees,intoacontinuouslineofcoast,canhardlybeexaggerated。Asharpkeenwindblewdeadagainstus;ahardfrostprevailedonshore;andthecoldwasmostsevere。Yettheairwassointenselyclear,anddry,andbright,thatthetemperaturewasnotonlyendurable,butdelicious。
  HowIremainedondeck,staringaboutme,untilwecamealongsidethedock,andhow,thoughIhadhadasmanyeyesasArgus,Ishouldhavehadthemallwideopen,andallemployedonnewobjects-aretopicswhichIwillnotprolongthischaptertodiscuss。NeitherwillImorethanhintatmyforeigner-likemistakeinsupposingthatapartyofmostactivepersons,whoscrambledonboardattheperiloftheirlivesasweapproachedthewharf,werenewsmen,answeringtothatindustriousclassathome;whereas,despitetheleathernwalletsofnewsslungaboutthenecksofsome,andthebroadsheetsinthehandsofall,theywereEditors,whoboardedshipsinpersonasonegentlemaninaworstedcomforterinformedme,'becausetheylikedtheexcitementofit。'Sufficeitinthisplacetosay,thatoneoftheseinvaders,withareadycourtesyforwhichIthankhimheremostgratefully,wentonbeforetoorderroomsatthehotel;andthatwhenIfollowed,asIsoondid,I
  foundmyselfrollingthroughthelongpassageswithaninvoluntaryimitationofthegaitofMr。T。P。Cooke,inanewnauticalmelodrama。
  'Dinner,ifyouplease,'saidItothewaiter。
  'When?'saidthewaiter。
  'Asquickaspossible,'saidI。
  'Rightaway?'saidthewaiter。
  Afteramoment'shesitation,Ianswered'No,'athazard。
  'NOTrightaway?'criedthewaiter,withanamountofsurprisethatmademestart。
  Ilookedathimdoubtfully,andreturned,'No;Iwouldratherhaveitinthisprivateroom。Ilikeitverymuch。'
  Atthis,Ireallythoughtthewaitermusthavegoneoutofhismind:asIbelievehewouldhavedone,butfortheinterpositionofanotherman,whowhisperedinhisear,'Directly。'
  'Well!andthat'safact!'saidthewaiter,lookinghelplesslyatme:'Rightaway。'
  Isawnowthat'Rightaway'and'Directly'wereoneandthesamething。SoIreversedmypreviousanswer,andsatdowntodinnerintenminutesafterwards;andacapitaldinneritwas。
  ThehotelaveryexcellentoneiscalledtheTremontHouse。Ithasmoregalleries,colonnades,piazzas,andpassagesthanIcanremember,orthereaderwouldbelieve。
  CHAPTERIII-BOSTON
  INallthepublicestablishmentsofAmerica,theutmostcourtesyprevails。MostofourDepartmentsaresusceptibleofconsiderableimprovementinthisrespect,buttheCustom-houseaboveallotherswoulddowelltotakeexamplefromtheUnitedStatesandrenderitselfsomewhatlessodiousandoffensivetoforeigners。TheservilerapacityoftheFrenchofficialsissufficientlycontemptible;butthereisasurlyboorishincivilityaboutourmen,alikedisgustingtoallpersonswhofallintotheirhands,anddiscreditabletothenationthatkeepssuchill-conditionedcurssnarlingaboutitsgates。
  WhenIlandedinAmerica,IcouldnothelpbeingstronglyimpressedwiththecontrasttheirCustom-housepresented,andtheattention,politenessandgoodhumourwithwhichitsofficersdischargedtheirduty。
  AswedidnotlandatBoston,inconsequenceofsomedetentionatthewharf,untilafterdark,IreceivedmyfirstimpressionsofthecityinwalkingdowntotheCustom-houseonthemorningafterourarrival,whichwasSunday。Iamafraidtosay,bytheway,howmanyoffersofpewsandseatsinchurchforthatmorningweremadetous,byformalnoteofinvitation,beforewehadhalffinishedourfirstdinnerinAmerica,butifImaybeallowedtomakeamoderateguess,withoutgoingintonicercalculation,Ishouldsaythatatleastasmanysittingswereprofferedus,aswouldhaveaccommodatedascoreortwoofgrown-upfamilies。Thenumberofcreedsandformsofreligiontowhichthepleasureofourcompanywasrequested,wasinveryfairproportion。
  Notbeingable,intheabsenceofanychangeofclothes,togotochurchthatday,wewerecompelledtodeclinethesekindnesses,oneandall;andIwasreluctantlyobligedtoforegothedelightofhearingDr。Channing,whohappenedtopreachthatmorningforthefirsttimeinaverylonginterval。ImentionthenameofthisdistinguishedandaccomplishedmanwithwhomIsoonafterwardshadthepleasureofbecomingpersonallyacquainted,thatImayhavethegratificationofrecordingmyhumbletributeofadmirationandrespectforhishighabilitiesandcharacter;andfortheboldphilanthropywithwhichhehaseveropposedhimselftothatmosthideousblotandfouldisgrace-Slavery。
  ToreturntoBoston。WhenIgotintothestreetsuponthisSundaymorning,theairwassoclear,thehousesweresobrightandgay:
  thesignboardswerepaintedinsuchgaudycolours;thegildedlettersweresoverygolden;thebricksweresoveryred,thestonewassoverywhite,theblindsandarearailingsweresoverygreen,theknobsandplatesuponthestreetdoorssomarvellouslybrightandtwinkling;andallsoslightandunsubstantialinappearance-
  thateverythoroughfareinthecitylookedexactlylikeasceneinapantomime。Itrarelyhappensinthebusinessstreetsthatatradesman,ifImayventuretocallanybodyatradesman,whereeverybodyisamerchant,residesabovehisstore;sothatmanyoccupationsareoftencarriedoninonehouse,andthewholefrontiscoveredwithboardsandinscriptions。AsIwalkedalong,Ikeptglancingupattheseboards,confidentlyexpectingtoseeafewofthemchangeintosomething;andIneverturnedacornersuddenlywithoutlookingoutfortheclownandpantaloon,who,Ihadnodoubt,werehidinginadoorwayorbehindsomepillarcloseathand。AstoHarlequinandColumbine,Idiscoveredimmediatelythattheylodgedtheyarealwayslookingafterlodgingsinapantomime
  ataverysmallclockmaker'sonestoryhigh,nearthehotel;which,inadditiontovarioussymbolsanddevices,almostcoveringthewholefront,hadagreatdialhangingout-tobejumpedthrough,ofcourse。
  Thesuburbsare,ifpossible,evenmoreunsubstantial-lookingthanthecity。Thewhitewoodenhousessowhitethatitmakesonewinktolookatthem,withtheirgreenjalousieblinds,aresosprinkledanddroppedaboutinalldirections,withoutseemingtohaveanyrootatallintheground;andthesmallchurchesandchapelsaresoprim,andbright,andhighlyvarnished;thatI
  almostbelievedthewholeaffaircouldbetakenuppiecemeallikeachild'stoy,andcrammedintoalittlebox。
  Thecityisabeautifulone,andcannotfail,Ishouldimagine,toimpressallstrangersveryfavourably。Theprivatedwelling-housesare,forthemostpart,largeandelegant;theshopsextremelygood;andthepublicbuildingshandsome。TheStateHouseisbuiltuponthesummitofahill,whichrisesgraduallyatfirst,andafterwardsbyasteepascent,almostfromthewater'sedge。Infrontisagreenenclosure,calledtheCommon。Thesiteisbeautiful:andfromthetopthereisacharmingpanoramicviewofthewholetownandneighbourhood。Inadditiontoavarietyofcommodiousoffices,itcontainstwohandsomechambers;inonetheHouseofRepresentativesoftheStateholdtheirmeetings:intheother,theSenate。SuchproceedingsasIsawhere,wereconductedwithperfectgravityanddecorum;andwerecertainlycalculatedtoinspireattentionandrespect。
  ThereisnodoubtthatmuchoftheintellectualrefinementandsuperiorityofBoston,isreferabletothequietinfluenceoftheUniversityofCambridge,whichiswithinthreeorfourmilesofthecity。Theresidentprofessorsatthatuniversityaregentlemenoflearningandvariedattainments;andare,withoutoneexceptionthatIcancalltomind,menwhowouldshedagraceupon,anddohonourto,anysocietyinthecivilisedworld。ManyoftheresidentgentryinBostonanditsneighbourhood,andIthinkIamnotmistakeninadding,alargemajorityofthosewhoareattachedtotheliberalprofessionsthere,havebeeneducatedatthissameschool。WhateverthedefectsofAmericanuniversitiesmaybe,theydisseminatenoprejudices;rearnobigots;diguptheburiedashesofnooldsuperstitions;neverinterposebetweenthepeopleandtheirimprovement;excludenomanbecauseofhisreligiousopinions;aboveall,intheirwholecourseofstudyandinstruction,recogniseaworld,andabroadonetoo,lyingbeyondthecollegewalls。
  Itwasasourceofinexpressiblepleasuretometoobservethealmostimperceptible,butnotlesscertaineffect,wroughtbythisinstitutionamongthesmallcommunityofBoston;andtonoteateveryturnthehumanisingtastesanddesiresithasengendered;theaffectionatefriendshipstowhichithasgivenrise;theamountofvanityandprejudiceithasdispelled。ThegoldencalftheyworshipatBostonisapigmycomparedwiththegianteffigiessetupinotherpartsofthatvastcounting-housewhichliesbeyondtheAtlantic;andthealmightydollarsinksintosomethingcomparativelyinsignificant,amidstawholePantheonofbettergods。
  Aboveall,IsincerelybelievethatthepublicinstitutionsandcharitiesofthiscapitalofMassachusettsareasnearlyperfect,asthemostconsideratewisdom,benevolence,andhumanity,canmakethem。Ineverinmylifewasmoreaffectedbythecontemplationofhappiness,undercircumstancesofprivationandbereavement,thaninmyvisitstotheseestablishments。
  ItisagreatandpleasantfeatureofallsuchinstitutionsinAmerica,thattheyareeithersupportedbytheStateorassistedbytheState;orintheeventoftheirnotneedingitshelpinghand
  thattheyactinconcertwithit,andareemphaticallythepeople's。Icannotbutthink,withaviewtotheprincipleanditstendencytoelevateordepressthecharacteroftheindustriousclasses,thataPublicCharityisimmeasurablybetterthanaPrivateFoundation,nomatterhowmunificentlythelattermaybeendowed。Inourowncountry,whereithasnot,untilwithintheselaterdays,beenaverypopularfashionwithgovernmentstodisplayanyextraordinaryregardforthegreatmassofthepeopleortorecognisetheirexistenceasimprovablecreatures,privatecharities,unexampledinthehistoryoftheearth,havearisen,todoanincalculableamountofgoodamongthedestituteandafflicted。Butthegovernmentofthecountry,havingneitheractnorpartinthem,isnotinthereceiptofanyportionofthegratitudetheyinspire;and,offeringverylittleshelterorreliefbeyondthatwhichistobefoundintheworkhouseandthejail,hascome,notunnaturally,tobelookeduponbythepoorratherasasternmaster,quicktocorrectandpunish,thanakindprotector,mercifulandvigilantintheirhourofneed。
  Themaximthatoutofevilcomethgood,isstronglyillustratedbytheseestablishmentsathome;astherecordsofthePrerogativeOfficeinDoctors'Commonscanabundantlyprove。Someimmenselyricholdgentlemanorlady,surroundedbyneedyrelatives,makes,uponalowaverage,awilla-week。Theoldgentlemanorlady,neververyremarkableinthebestoftimesforgoodtemper,isfullofachesandpainsfromheadtofoot;fulloffanciesandcaprices;
  fullofspleen,distrust,suspicion,anddislike。Tocanceloldwills,andinventnewones,isatlastthesolebusinessofsuchatestator'sexistence;andrelationsandfriendssomeofwhomhavebeenbredupdistinctlytoinheritalargeshareoftheproperty,andhavebeen,fromtheircradles,speciallydisqualifiedfromdevotingthemselvestoanyusefulpursuit,onthataccountaresooftenandsounexpectedlyandsummarilycutoff,andreinstated,andcutoffagain,thatthewholefamily,downtotheremotestcousin,iskeptinaperpetualfever。Atlengthitbecomesplainthattheoldladyorgentlemanhasnotlongtolive;andtheplainerthisbecomes,themoreclearlytheoldladyorgentlemanperceivesthateverybodyisinaconspiracyagainsttheirpoorolddyingrelative;whereforetheoldladyorgentlemanmakesanotherlastwill-positivelythelastthistime-concealsthesameinachinateapot,andexpiresnextday。Thenitturnsout,thatthewholeoftherealandpersonalestateisdividedbetweenhalf-a-
  dozencharities;andthatthedeadandgonetestatorhasinpurespitehelpedtodoagreatdealofgood,atthecostofanimmenseamountofevilpassionandmisery。
  ThePerkinsInstitutionandMassachusettsAsylumfortheBlind,atBoston,issuperintendedbyabodyoftrusteeswhomakeanannualreporttothecorporation。Theindigentblindofthatstateareadmittedgratuitously。ThosefromtheadjoiningstateofConnecticut,orfromthestatesofMaine,Vermont,orNewHampshire,areadmittedbyawarrantfromthestatetowhichtheyrespectivelybelong;or,failingthat,mustfindsecurityamongtheirfriends,forthepaymentofabouttwentypoundsEnglishfortheirfirstyear'sboardandinstruction,andtenforthesecond。
  'Afterthefirstyear,'saythetrustees,'anaccountcurrentwillbeopenedwitheachpupil;hewillbechargedwiththeactualcostofhisboard,whichwillnotexceedtwodollarsperweek;'atriflemorethaneightshillingsEnglish;'andhewillbecreditedwiththeamountpaidforhimbythestate,orbyhisfriends;alsowithhisearningsoverandabovethecostofthestockwhichheuses;sothatallhisearningsoveronedollarperweekwillbehisown。Bythethirdyearitwillbeknownwhetherhisearningswillmorethanpaytheactualcostofhisboard;iftheyshould,hewillhaveitathisoptiontoremainandreceivehisearnings,ornot。Thosewhoproveunabletoearntheirownlivelihoodwillnotberetained;
  asitisnotdesirabletoconverttheestablishmentintoanalms-
  house,ortoretainanybutworkingbeesinthehive。Thosewhobyphysicalormentalimbecilityaredisqualifiedfromwork,aretherebydisqualifiedfrombeingmembersofanindustriouscommunity;andtheycanbebetterprovidedforinestablishmentsfittedfortheinfirm。'
  Iwenttoseethisplaceoneveryfinewintermorning:anItalianskyabove,andtheairsoclearandbrightoneveryside,thatevenmyeyes,whicharenoneofthebest,couldfollowtheminutelinesandscrapsoftraceryindistantbuildings。LikemostotherpublicinstitutionsinAmerica,ofthesameclass,itstandsamileortwowithoutthetown,inacheerfulhealthyspot;andisanairy,spacious,handsomeedifice。Itisbuiltuponaheight,commandingtheharbour。WhenIpausedforamomentatthedoor,andmarkedhowfreshandfreethewholescenewas-whatsparklingbubblesglanceduponthewaves,andwelledupeverymomenttothesurface,asthoughtheworldbelow,likethatabove,wereradiantwiththebrightday,andgushingoverinitsfulnessoflight:whenIgazedfromsailtosailawayuponashipatsea,atinyspeckofshiningwhite,theonlyclouduponthestill,deep,distantblue-and,turning,sawablindboywithhissightlessfaceaddressedthatway,asthoughhetoohadsomesensewithinhimofthegloriousdistance:Ifeltakindofsorrowthattheplaceshouldbesoverylight,andastrangewishthatforhissakeitweredarker。Itwasbutmomentary,ofcourse,andamerefancy,butIfeltitkeenlyforallthat。
  Thechildrenwereattheirdailytasksindifferentrooms,exceptafewwhowerealreadydismissed,andwereatplay。Here,asinmanyinstitutions,nouniformisworn;andIwasverygladofit,fortworeasons。Firstly,becauseIamsurethatnothingbutsenselesscustomandwantofthoughtwouldreconcileustotheliveriesandbadgeswearesofondofathome。Secondly,becausetheabsenceofthesethingspresentseachchildtothevisitorinhisorherownpropercharacter,withitsindividualityunimpaired;notlostinadull,ugly,monotonousrepetitionofthesameunmeaninggarb:
  whichisreallyanimportantconsideration。Thewisdomofencouragingalittleharmlessprideinpersonalappearanceevenamongtheblind,orthewhimsicalabsurdityofconsideringcharityandleatherbreechesinseparablecompanions,aswedo,requiresnocomment。