Thechild，beinginweaklyhealth，diedbeforeGiovannicouldrepairhisoversight，andthispreyeduponhismind。Inanswer，however，tohisearnestprayers，itpleasedtheAlmightytogivehimpowertoraisethedeadchildtolifeagain:thishedid，andhavingimmediatelyperformedtheriteofconfirmation，restoredtheboytohisoverjoyedmother。Henowbecamesomuchreveredthathebegantobealarmedlestprideshouldobtaindominionoverhim；hefelt，therefore，thathisonlycoursewastoresignhisdiocese，andgoandlivethelifeofarecluseonthetopofsomehighmountain。Itissaidthathesufferedagoniesofdoubtastowhetheritwasnotselfishofhimtotakesuchcareofhisowneternalwelfare，attheexpenseofthatofhisflock，whomnosuccessorcouldsowellguideandguardfromevil；butintheendhetookareasonableviewofthematter，andconcludedthathisfirstdutywastosecurehisownspiritualposition。Nothingshortofthetopofaveryuncomfortablemountaincoulddothis，soheatonceresignedhisbishopricandchoseMonteCaprasioasonthewholethemostcomfortableuncomfortablemountainhecouldfind。
　　ThelatterpartofthestorywillseemstrangetoEnglishmen。WecanhardlyfancytheArchbishopofCanterburyorYorkresigninghisdioceseandsettlingdownquietlyonthetopofScafellorCaderIdristosecurehiseternalwelfare。TheywouldhardlydosoevenonthetopofPrimroseHill。Butninehundredyearsagohumannaturewasnotthesameasnowadays。
　　ThevalleyofSusa，thenlittleelsethanmarshandforest，washeldbyamarquisofthenameofArduin，adescendantofaFrenchorNormanadventurerRoger，who，withabrother，alsonamedArduin，hadcometoseekhisfortuneinItalyatthebeginningofthetenthcentury。Rogerhadason，ArduinGlabrio，whorecoveredthevalleyofSusafromtheSaracens，andestablishedhimselfatSusa，atthejunctionoftheroadsthatcomedownfromMontCenisandtheMontGenevre。Hebuiltacastleherewhichcommandedthevalley，andwashisbaseofoperationsasLordoftheMarchesandWardenoftheAlps。
　　HughdeMontboissierappliedtoArduinforleavetobuildupontheMontePirchiriano。ArduinwasthenholdinghiscourtatAvigliana，asmalltownnearS。Ambrogio，evennowsingularlylittlealtered，andfullofmediaevalremains；henotonlygavehisconsent，butvolunteeredtosellasitetothemonastery，soastoensureitagainstfuturedisturbance。
　　ThefirstchurchofGiovanniVincenzohadbeenbuiltuponwhateverlittlespacecouldbefounduponthetopofthemountain，without，sofarasIcangather，enlargingthegroundartificially。Thepresentchurch——theone，thatistosay，builtbyHughdeMontboissieraboutA。D。1000——restsalmostentirelyuponstonepiersandmasonry。Therockhasbeenmaskedbyaloftygranitewallofseveralfeetinthickness，whichpresentssomethingofakeep-likeappearance。Thespectatornaturallyimaginesthattherearerooms，&c。，behindthiswall，whereasinpointoffactthereisnothingbutthestaircaseleadinguptothefloorofthechurch。
　　Archesspringfromthismaskingwall，andarecontinuedthenceuntiltherockisreached；itisonthelevelsurfacethusobtainedthatthechurchrests。Thetruefloor，therefore，doesnotbegintillnearwhatappearsfromtheoutsidetobethetopofthebuilding。
　　Thereissomeuncertaintyastotheexactdateofthefoundationofthemonastery，butClaretta{11}inclinesdecidedlytothedate999，asagainst966，theoneassignedbyMabillonandTorraneo。
　　Clarettareliesonthediscovery，byProvana，ofadocumentintheroyalarchiveswhichseemstoplacethematterbeyonddispute。ThefirstabbotwasundoubtedlyAvvertoorArveo，whoestablishedtherulesoftheBenedictineOrderinhismonastery。"InthesevenhoursofdailyworkprescribedbytheBenedictinerule，"writesCesareBalbo，"innumerablewerethefieldstheyploughed，andthehousestheybuiltindeserts，whileinmorefrequentedplacesmenwerelayingcultivatedgroundwaste，anddestroyingbuildings:
　　innumerable，again，weretheworksoftheholyfathersandofancientauthorswhichwerecopiedandpreserved。"{12}
　　Fromthistimeforwardthemonasteryreceivedgiftsinlandandprivileges，andbecameinafewyearsthemostimportantreligiousestablishmentinthatpartofItaly。
　　Therehavebeenseveralfires——one，amongothers，intheyear1340，whichdestroyedagreatpartofthemonastery，andsomeofthedeedsunderwhichitheldvaluablegrants；butthoughthepartinhabitedbythemonksmayhavebeenrebuiltoraddedto，thechurchiscertainlyuntouched。
　　CHAPTERVIII——S。Michelecontinued
　　Ihadoftenseenthiswonderfulpileofbuildings，andhadmarvelledatit，asallmustdowhopassfromSusatoTurin，butI
　　neverwentactuallyuptoittilllastsummer，incompanywithmyfriendandcollaborateur，Mr。H。F。Jones。WereachedS。AmbrogiostationonesultryeveninginJuly，and，beforemanyminuteswereover，wereonthepaththatleadstoSanPietro，alittlemorethananhour'swalkaboveS。Ambrogio。
　　InspiteofwhatIhavesaidaboutKent，Surrey，andSussex，wefoundourselvesthinkinghowthinandwanting，asitwere，inadiposecushioniseveryothercountryincomparisonwithItaly；
　　butthecharmisenhancedinthesedaysbythefeelingthatitcanbereachedsoeasily。Wednesdaymorning，FleetStreet；Thursdayevening，apathuponthequietmountainside，undertheoverspreadingchestnuts，withLombardyatone'sfeet。
　　Sometwentyminutesafterwehadbeguntoclimb，thesanctuarybecamelosttosight，largedropsofthunder-rainbegantofall，andbythetimewereachedSanPietroitwaspouringheavily，andhadbecomequitedark。Anhourorsolatertheskyhadcleared，andtherewasasplendidmoon:openingthewindows，wefoundourselveslookingoverthetopsoftreesontosomelovelyuplandpastures，onawindingpaththroughwhichwecouldalmostfancywesawayouthledbyanangel，andtherewasadogwithhim，andheheldafishinhishand。FarbelowwerelightsfromvillagesinthevalleyoftheDora。Aboveusrosethemountains，bathedinshadow，orglitteringinthemoonbeams，andtherecamefromthemthepleasantmurmuringofstreamletsthathadbeenswollenbythestorm。
　　Nextmorningtheskywascloudlessandtheairinvigorating。S。
　　Ambrogio，atthefootofthemountain，mustbesome800feetabovethesea，andSanPietroabout1500feetaboveS。Ambrogio。Thesanctuaryatthetopofthemountainis2800feetabovethesea-
　　level，orabout500feetaboveSanPietro。AsituationmoredelightfulthanthatofSanPietroitisimpossibletoconceive。
　　Itcontainssome200inhabitants，andliesonaledgeoflevelland，whichis，ofcourse，coveredwiththemostbeautifullygreengrass，andinspringcarpetedwithwild-flowers；greatbroad-leavedchestnutsrisefromoutthemeadows，andbeneaththeirshadearestrewnmassesofsobermulberry-colouredrock；butabovealltheserisesthegreatfeatureoftheplace，fromwhich，whenitisinsight，theeyescanhardlybediverted，——ImeanthesanctuaryofS。
　　Micheleitself。
　　Asketchgivesbutlittleideaoftheplace。InnatureitappearsasoneofthosefascinatingthingslikethesmokefromVesuvius，orthetownontheSacroMonteatVarese，whichtakepossessionofonetotheexclusionofallelse，aslongastheyareinsight。Fromeachpointofviewitbecomesmoreandmorestriking。ClimbinguptoitfromSanPietroandgettingatlastnearlyonalevelwiththelowerpartsofthebuilding，oragainkeepingtoapathwayalongthesideofthemountaintowardsAvigliana，itwillcomeasonthefollowingpage。
　　[Atthispointthereisapictureinthebook]
　　Thereisaverybeautifulviewfromnearthespotwherethefirstofthesesketchesistaken。Wearethenontheveryridgeorcrestofthemountain，andlookdownontheonehanduponthevalleyoftheDoragoinguptoSusa，withtheglaciersoftheMontCenisinthebackground，andontheotherupontheplainsnearTurin，withthecollineboundingthehorizon。ImmediatelybeneathisseentheglaringwhitestraightlineoftheoldMontCenisroad，lookingmuchmoreimportantthanthedingynarrowlittlestripofrailroadthathassupersededit。Thetrainsthatpassalongthelinelooknobiggerthancaterpillars，butevenatthisdistancetheymakeagreatroar。Ifthepathfromwhichthesecondviewistakenisfollowedforaquarterofanhourorso，anothernolessbeautifulpointisreachedfromwhichonecanlookdownuponthetwosmalllakesofAvigliana。TheselakessupplyTurinwithwater，and，I
　　mayadd，withthebestwaterthatIknowofassuppliedtoanytown。
　　Wewillnowreturntotheplacefromwhichthefirstofthesketchesonp。95wastaken，andproceedtothesanctuaryitself。
　　Passingthesmallbutverymassivecircularruinshownontherighthandofthesketch，aboutwhichnothingwhateverisknowneitherasregardsitsdateorobject，weascendbyagentleinclinetotheoutergateofthesanctuary。Thebatteredplatesofironthatcoverthewoodendoorsaremarkedwithmanyabullet。Thenwekeepundercoverforashortspace，afterwhichwefindourselvesatthefootofalongflightofsteps。Closebythereisalittleterracewithawallroundit，whereonecanstandandenjoyaviewoverthevalleyoftheDoratoTurin。
　　Havingascendedthesteps，weareatthemainentrancetothebuilding——amassiveLombarddoorway，evidentlytheoriginalone。
　　Inthespaceabovethedoortherehavebeentwofrescoes，anearlierandalaterone，onepaintedovertheother，butnothingnowremainssavethesignatureofthesecondpainter，signedinGothiccharacters。Onentering，morestepsmustbeatonceclimbed，andthenthestaircaseturnsatrightanglesandtendstowardstherock。
　　Attheheadoftheflightshownp。98，thenaturalrockappears。
　　Thearchaboveitformsarecessfilledwithdesiccatedcorpses。
　　Thegreatpiertotheleft，and，indeed，allthemasonrythatcanbeseen，hasnootherobjectthantoobtainspacefor，andtosupport，thefloorofthechurchitself。Mydrawingwastakenfromaboutthelevelofthetopofthearchwaythroughwhichthebuildingisentered。Therecomesinatthispointathirdsmallstaircasefrombehind；ascendingthis，onefindsone'sselfinthewindowabovethedoor，fromthebalconyofwhichthereisamarvellouspanorama。Itookadvantageofthewindowtomeasurethethicknessofthewalls，andfoundthemalittleoversevenfeetthickandbuiltofmassivegraniteblocks。Thestonesontheinsidearesosharpandcleancutthattheylookasiftheywerenotmorethanfiftyyearsold。Ontheoutside，thegranite，hardasitis，ismuchweathered，which，indeed，consideringtheexposedsituation，ishardlytobewonderedat。
　　Hereagainhowthewindmusthowlandwhistle，andhowthesnowmustbeatinwinter!Noonewhohasnotseensnowfallingduringatimewhenthethermometerisaboutatzerocanknowhowsearchingathingitis。Howsoftlywoulditnotlieupontheskullsandshouldersoftheskeletons。FancyadulldarkJanuaryafternoon'stwilightuponthisstaircase，afteraheavysnow，whenthesoftfleececlingstothewalls，havingdriftedinthroughmanyanopening。Orfancyabrilliantwinter'smoonlight，withthemoonfallingupontheskeletonsaftersnow。AndthenlettherebeaburstofmusicfromanorganinthechurchaboveIamsorrytosaytheyhaveonlyaharmonium；Iwishsomeonewouldgivethemafineorgan。Ishouldlikethefollowingforexample:-{13}
　　[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]
　　Howthiswouldsounduponthesestairs，iftheywouldleavethechurch-dooropen。ItissaidinMurray'shandbookthatformerlythecorpseswhicharenowunderthearch，usedtobeplacedinasittingpositionuponthestairs，andthepeasantswouldcrownthemwithflowers。Fancytwilightormoonlightonthesestairs，withthecorpsessittingamongthewitheredflowersandsnow，andthepealingofagreatorgan。
　　Afterascendingthestepsthatleadtowardstheskeletons，weturnagainsharproundtotheleft，andcomeuponanothernobleflight——
　　broadandlofty，andcutingreatmeasurefromthelivingrock。
　　AtthetopofthisflighttherearetwosetsofLombardportals，bothofthemveryfine，butinsuchdarknessandsoplacedthatitwasimpossibletogetadrawingofthemindetail。Afterpassingthroughthem，thestaircaseturnsagain，and，asfarasIcanremember，sometwentyorthirtystepsbringoneuptothelevelofthetopofthearchwhichformstherecesswherethecorpsesare。
　　HerethereisanotherbeautifulLombarddoorway，withasmallarcadeoneithersidewhichIthoughtEnglish，ratherthanItalian，incharacter。Animpressionwasproduceduponbothofusthatthisdoorwayandthearcadeoneithersidewerebyadifferentarchitectfromthetwolowerarchways，andfromtheinsideofthechurch；oratanyrate，thatthedetailsoftheenrichmentwerecutbyadifferentmason，organgofmasons。Ithink，however，thewholedoorwayisinalaterstyle，andmusthavebeenputinaftersomefirehaddestroyedtheearlierone。
　　Openingthedoor，whichbydayisalwaysunlocked，wefoundourselvesinthechurchitself。AsIhavesaid，itisofpureLombardarchitecture，andverygoodofitskind；Idonotthinkithasbeentouchedsincethebeginningoftheeleventhcentury，exceptthatithasbeenre-roofedandthepitchoftheroofaltered。Atthebaseofthemostwesterlyofthethreepiersthatdividethenavefromtheaisles，therecropsoutasmallpieceofthelivingrock；thisisattheendfarthestfromthechoir。ItisnotlikelythatGiovanniVincenzo'schurchreachedeastofthispoint，forfromthispointonwardstowardsthechoirthefloorisartificiallysupported，andthesupportingstructureisdueentirelytoHugodeMontboissier。Thepartoftheoriginalchurchwhichstillremainsisperhapsthewall，whichformsthewesternlimitofthepresentchurch。Thiswallisnotexternal。Itformstheeasternwallofalargechamberwithfrescoes。Iamnotsurethatthischamberdoesnotoccupythewholespaceoftheoriginalchurch。
　　Thereareafewnicevotivepicturesinthechurch，andoneortwoveryearlyfrescoes，whicharenotwithoutinterest；butthemaincharmoftheplaceisinthearchitecture，andthesenseatonceofageandstrengthwhichitproduces。ThestockthingstoseearethevaultsinwhichmanyofthemembersoftheroyalhouseofSavoy，legitimateandillegitimate，lieburied；theyneednot，however，beseen。
　　Ihavesaidthatthewholebuildingisofmuchaboutthesamedate，and，unlessperhapsintheresidentialparts，aboutwhichIcansaylittle，hasnotbeenaltered。ThisisnottheviewtakenbytheauthorofMurray'sHandbookforNorthItaly，whosaysthat"injudiciousrepairshavemarredtheeffectofthebuilding；"butthiswriterhasfallenintoseveralerrors。Hetalks，forexample，ofthe"openLombardgalleryofsmallcirculararches"asbeing"oneoftheoldestandmostcuriousfeaturesofthebuilding，"
　　whereasitisobviouslynoolderthantherestofthechurch，northanthekeep-likeconstructionuponwhichitrests。Again，heisclearlyinerrorwhenhesaysthatthe"extremelybeautifulcirculararchbywhichwepassfromthestaircasetothecorridorleadingtothechurch，isavestigeoftheoriginalbuilding。"Thedoubleroundarchedportalsthroughwhichwepassfromthemainstaircasetothecorridorareofexactlythesamedateasthestaircaseitself，andastherestofthechurch。TheycertainlyformednopartofGiovanniVincenzo'sedifice；for，besidesbeingfartoorich，theyarenotonalevelwithwhatremainsofthatbuilding，butseveralfeetbelowit。Itishardtoknowwhatthewritermeansby"theoriginalbuilding；"heappearstothinkitextendedtothepresentchoir，which，hesays，"retainstracesofanearlierage。"Thechoirretainsnosuchtraces。Theonlyremainsoftheoriginalchurchareatthebackofthewestend，invisiblefromtheinsideofthechurch，andattheoppositeendtothechoir。Asforthechurchbeing"inaplainGothicstyle，"itisanextremelybeautifulexampleofpureLombard，ofthefirstfewyearsoftheeleventhcentury。True，themiddlearchofthethreewhichdividethenavefromtheaislesispointed，whereasthetwoothersareround，butthisisevidentlydonetoeconomisespace，whichwashereunusuallycostly。Therewasroomformorethantworoundarches，butnotroomenoughforthree，soitwasdecidedtodockthemiddlearchalittle。Itisashe-arch——thatistosay，ithasnokeystone，butisformedsimplybyproppingtwosegmentsofacircleoneagainsttheother。ItcertainlyisnotaGothicarch；itisaLombardarch，modifiedinanunusualmanner，owingtoitshavingbeenbuiltunderunusualconditions。
　　ThevisitorshouldonnoaccountomittoringthebellandasktobeshowntheopenLombardgalleryalreadyreferredtoasrunningroundtheoutsideofthechoir。Itiswellworthwalkingroundthis，ifonlyfortheview。
　　Theofficialwhoshowedusroundwasverykind，andasapersonalfavourwewereallowedtovisitthefathers'privategarden。Thelargearm-chairsaremadeoutofclippedbox-trees。Whileonourwaytothegardenwepassedaspotwheretherewasanalarmingbuzzing，andfoundourselvessurroundedbywhatappearedtobeanangryswarmofbees；closerinspectionshowedthatthehostwasamedleyone，composedofwasps，hugehornets，hive-bees，humble-
　　bees，flies，dragon-flies，butterflies，andallkindsofinsects，flyingaboutasinglepatchofivyinfullblossom，whichattractedthemsostronglythattheyneglectedeverythingelse。Ithinksomeofthemwereintoxicated。Ifthiswasso，thenperhapsBacchusiscalled"ivy-crowned"becauseivy-blossomsintoxicateinsects，butI
　　neverremembertohavebeforeobservedthativy-blossomshadanyspecialattractionforinsects。
　　Ihaveforgottentosayanythingaboutabeamofwoodwhichmaybeseenstandingoutatrightanglesfromthetowertotherightofthemainbuilding。ThisIbelievetohavebeenthegallows。
　　AnotherlikeitmaybeseenatS。Giorio，butIhavenotgotitinmysketchofthatplace。TheattendantwhotookusroundS。
　　Micheledeniedthatitwasthegallows，butIthinkitmusthavebeen。Also，theattendantshowedusoneplacewhichiscalledIlSaltodellabelleAlda。Aldawasbeingpursuedbyasoldier；topreserveherhonour，sheleapedfromawindowandfelloveraprecipicesomehundredsoffeetbelow；bytheintercessionoftheVirginshewassaved，butbecamesomuchelatedthatshedeterminedtorepeatthefeat。Shejumpedasecondtimefromthewindow，butwasdashedtopieces。Weweretoldthisasbeingunworthyofactualcredence，butasalegendoftheplace。Wesaidwefoundnogreatdifficultyinbelievingthefirsthalfofthestory，butcouldhardlybelievethatanyonewouldjumpfromthatwindowtwice。{14}
　　CHAPTERIX——TheNorthItalianPriesthoodThereisnowaschoolinthesanctuary；wemettheboysseveraltimes。Theyseemedwellcaredforandcontented。Thepriestswhoresideinthesanctuarywerecourtesyitself；theytookawarminterestinEngland，andwereanxiousforanyinformationIcouldgivethemaboutthemonasterynearLoughborough——anamewhichtheyhadmuchdifficultyinpronouncing。Theywereperfectlytolerant，andreadytoextendtootherstheconsiderationtheyexpectedforthemselves。Thisshouldnotbesayingmuch，butasthingsgoitissayingagooddeal。Whatindeedmorecanbewishedfor？
　　Thefacesofsuchpriestsasthese——andIshouldsaysuchpriestsformafullhalfoftheNorthItalianpriesthood——areperfectlyfreefromthatbadfurtiveexpressionwhichweassociatewithpriestcraft，andwhich，whenseen，cannotbemistaken:theirfacesarethoseofourownbestEnglishcountryclergy，withperhapsatriflelessfleshaboutthemandatriflemoreofanotunkindlyasceticism。
　　ComparingourownclergywiththebestNorthItalianandTicinesepriests，Ishouldsaytherewaslittletochoosebetweenthem。Thelatterareinalogicallystrongerposition，andthisgivesthemgreatercourageintheiropinions；theformerhavetheadvantageinrespectofmoney，andthemorevariedknowledgeoftheworldwhichmoneywillcommand。WhenIsayCatholicshavelogicallytheadvantageoverProtestants，Imeanthatstartingfrompremiseswhichbothsidesadmit，amerelylogicalProtestantwillfindhimselfdriventotheChurchofRome。Mostmenastheygrowolderwill，Ithink，feelthis，andtheywillseeinittheexplanationofthecomparativelynarrowareaoverwhichtheReformationextended，andofthegainwhichCatholicismhasmadeoflateyearshereinEngland。Ontheotherhand，reasonablepeoplewilllookwithdistrustupontoomuchreason。Thefoundationsofactionliedeeperthanreasoncanreach。Theyrestonfaith——forthereisnoabsolutelycertainincontrovertiblepremisewhichcanbelaidbyman，anymorethanthereisanyinvestmentformoneyorsecurityinthedailyaffairsoflifewhichisabsolutelyunimpeachable。Thefundsarenotabsolutelysale；avolcanomightbreakoutundertheBankofEngland。Arailwayjourneyisnotabsolutelysafe；oneperson，atleast，inseveralmillionsgetskilled。Weinvestourmoneyuponfaithmainly。Wechooseourdoctoruponfaith，forhowlittleindependentjudgmentcanweformconcerninghiscapacity？
　　Wechooseschoolsforourchildrenchieflyuponfaith。Themostimportantthingsamanhasarehisbody，hissoul，andhismoney。
　　Itisgenerallybetterforhimtocommittheseintereststothecareofothersofwhomhecanknowlittle，ratherthanbehisownmedicalman，orinvesthismoneyonhisownjudgment；andthisisnothingelsethanmakingafaithwhichliesdeeperthanreasoncanreach，thebasisofouractioninthoserespectswhichtouchusmostnearly。
　　Ontheotherhand，asgoodacasecouldbemadeoutforplacingreasonasthefoundation，inasmuchasitwouldbeeasytoshowthatafaith，tobeworthanything，mustbeareasonableone——one，thatistosay，whichisbaseduponreason。Thefactis，thatfaithandreasonarelikedesireandpower，ordemandandsupply；itisimpossibletosaywhichcomesfirst:theycomeuphandinhand，andaresosmallwhenwecanfirstdescrythem，thatitisimpossibletosaywhichwefirstcaughtsightof。Allwecannowseeisthateachhasatendencycontinuallytooutstriptheotherbyalittle
　　butbyaverylittleonly。Strictlytheyarenottwothings，buttwoaspectsofonething；forconveniencesake，however，weclassifythemseparately。
　　Itfollows，therefore——butwhetheritfollowsorno，itiscertainlytrue——thatneitherfaithalonenorreasonaloneisasufficientguide:aman'ssafetyliesneitherinfaithnorreason，butintemper——inthepoweroffusingfaithandreason，evenwhentheyappearmostmutuallydestructive。Amanoftemperwillbecertaininspiteofuncertainty，andatthesametimeuncertaininspiteofcertainty；reasonableinspiteofhisrestingmainlyuponfaithratherthanreason，andfulloffaithevenwhenappealingmoststronglytoreason。Ifitisasked，Inwhatshouldamanhavefaith？Towhatfaithshouldheturnwhenreasonhasledhimtoaconclusionwhichhedistrusts？theansweris，Tothecurrentfeelingamongthosewhomhemostlooksupto——lookinguponhimselfwithsuspicionifheiseitheramongtheforemostorthelaggers。
　　Intherough，homelycommonsenseofthecommunitytowhichwebelongwehaveasfirmgroundascanbegot。This，thoughnotabsolutelyinfallible，issecureenoughforpracticalpurposes。
　　AsIhavesaid，Catholicpriestshaveratherafascinationforme——
　　whentheyarenotEnglishmen。IshouldsaythatthebestNorthItalianpriestsaremoreopenlytolerantthanourEnglishclergygenerallyare。Irememberpickinguponewhowaswalkingalongaroad，andgivinghimaliftinmytrap。Ofcoursewefelltotalking，anditcameoutthatIwasamemberoftheChurchofEngland。"Ebbene，caroSignore，"saidhewhenweshookhandsatparting；"mirincrescecheLeinoncredecomeme，mainquestitempinonpossiamoaveretuttiimedesimiprincipii。"{15}
　　ItravelledanotherdayfromSusatoS。Ambrogiowithapriest，whotoldmehetookin"TheCatholicTimes，"andwhowaswelluptodateonEnglishmatters。BeingmyselfaConservative，Ifoundhisopinionssoundonallpointsbutone——IrefertotheIrishquestion:hehadnosympathywiththeobstructionistsinParliament，butneverthelessthoughttheIrishwereharshlytreated。IexplainedmattersaswellasIcould，andfoundhimverywillingtolistentooursideofthequestion。
　　Theonething，hesaid，whichshockedhimwiththeEnglish，wasthemannerinwhichtheywentaboutdistributingtractsupontheContinent。Isaidnoonecoulddeplorethepracticemoreprofoundlythanmyself，butthattherewerestupidandconceitedpeopleineverycountry，whowouldinsistuponthrustingtheiropinionsuponpeoplewhodidnotwantthem。HerepliedthattheItalianstravellednotalittleinEngland，butthathewassurenotoneofthemwoulddreamofofferingCatholictractstopeople，forexample，inthestreetsofLondon。CertainlyIhaveneverseenanItaliantobeguiltyofsuchrudeness。Itseemstomethatitisnotonlytolerationthatisaduty；weoughttogobeyondthisnow；weshouldconform，whenweareamongasufficientnumberofthosewhowouldnotunderstandourrefusaltodoso；anyothercourseistoattachtoomuchimportanceatoncetoourownopinionsandtothoseofouropponents。Byallmeansletamanstandbyhisconvictionswhentheoccasionrequires，butlethimreservehisstrength，unlessitisimperativelycalledfor。Donotlethimexaggeratetrifles，andlethimrememberthateverythingisatrifleincomparisonwiththenotgivingoffencetoalargenumberofkindly，simple-mindedpeople。Evolution，asweallknow，isthegreatdoctrineofmoderntimes；theveryessenceofevolutionconsistsinthenotshockinganythingtooviolently，butenablingittomistakeanewactionforanoldone，without"makingbelieve"
　　toomuch。
　　OnedaywhenIwaseatingmylunchnearafountain，therecameupamoody，meditativehen，crooningplaintivelyafterherwont。I
　　threwheracrumbofbreadwhileshewasstillagoodwayoff，andthenthrewmore，gettinghertocomealittlecloserandalittleclosereachtime；atlastsheactuallytookapiecefrommyhand。
　　Shedidnotquitelikeit，butshedidit。Thisistheevolutionprinciple；andifwewishthosewhodifferfromustounderstandus，itistheonlymethodtoproceedupon。IhavesometimesthoughtthatsomeofmyfriendsamongthepriestshavebeentreatingmeasItreatedthemeditativehen。Butwhatofthat？
　　Theywillnotkillandeatme，nortakemyeggs。Whatever，therefore，promotesamorefriendlyfeelingbetweenusmustbepuregain。
　　ThemistakeouradvancedLiberalsmakeisthatofflingingmuchtoolargepiecesofbreadatatime，andflingingthemattheirhen，insteadofalittlewayoffher。Ofcoursethehenisflutteredanddrivenaway。Sometimes，too，theydonotsufficientlydistinguishbetweenbreadandstones。
　　Asageneralrule，thecommonpeopletreatthepriestsrespectfully，butonceIheardseveralattackingonewarmlyonthescoreofeternalpunishment。"Sara，"saidone，"percentoanni，percinquecento，permilleoforseperdiecimilleanni，manonsaraeterna；percheilDioeunuomoforte——grande，generoso，dibuoncuore。"{16}AnItaliantoldmeoncethatifeverIcameuponapriestwhomIwantedtotease，IwastoaskhimifheknewaplacecalledLaTorrePellice。Ihaveneveryethadthechanceofdoingthis；for，thoughIamfairlyquickatseeingwhetherIamlikelytogetonwithapriestorno，Ifindthepriestisgenerallyfairlyquicktoo；andIamnosoonerinadiligenceorrailwaycarriagewithanunsympatheticpriest，thanhecurlshimselfroundintoamoralballandprayshorribly——bristlingoutwithcollectsalloverlikeacross-grainedspiritualhedgehog。
　　Partly，therefore，fromhavingnowishtogooutofmywaytomakemyselfobnoxious，andpartlythroughtheoppositepartybeingdeterminedthatIshallnotgetthechance，thequestionaboutLaTorrePellicehasnevercomeoff，andIdonotknowwhatapriestwouldsayifthesubjectwereintroduced，——butIdidgetatalkingaboutLaTorrePelliceallthesame。
　　IwasgoingfromTurintoPinerolo，andfoundmyselfseatedoppositeafine-lookingelderlygentlemanwhowasreadingapaperheaded，"LeTemoin，EchodesValleesVaudoises":fortheVaudois，orWaldenses，thoughontheItaliansideoftheAlps，areFrenchinlanguageandperhapsinorigin。Ifelltotalkingwiththisgentleman，andfoundhewasonhiswaytoLaTorrePellice，theheadquartersofindigenousItalianevangelicism。Hetoldmetherewereabout25，000inhabitantsofthesevalleys，andthattheywerewithoutexceptionProtestant，orratherthattheyhadneveracceptedCatholicism，buthadretainedtheprimitiveApostolicfaithinitsoriginalpurity。HehintedtomethattheyweredescendantsofsomeoneormoreofthelosttentribesofIsrael。
　　TheEnglish，hetoldmemeaning，Igather，theEnglishoftheEnglandthataffectsExeterHall，haddonegreatthingsfortheinhabitantsofLaTorreatdifferenttimes，andtherewerestreetscalledtheViaWilliamsandViaBeckwith。Theywere，hesaid，averygrowingsect，andhadmissionariesandestablishmentsinalltheprincipalcitiesinNorthItaly；infact，sofarasIcouldgather，theywereasaggressiveasmalcontentsgenerallyare，and，Italiansthoughtheywere，wouldgiveawaytractsjustasreadilyaswedo。Ididnot，therefore，gotoLaTorre。
　　Sometimespriestssaythings，asamatterofcourse，whichwouldmakeanyEnglishclergyman'shairstandonend。Atonetownthereisaremarkablefourteenth-centurybridge，commonlyknownas"TheDevil'sBridge。"Iwassketchingnearthiswhenajollyoldpriestwitharednosecameupandbeganaconversationwithme。Hewasevidentlyapopularcharacter，foreveryonewhopassedgreetedhim。Hetoldmethatthedevildidnotreallybuildthebridge。I
　　saidIpresumednot，forhewasnotinthehabitofspendinghistimesowell。
　　"Iwishhehadbuiltit，"saidmyfriend；"forthenperhapshewouldbuildussomemore。"
　　"Orwemightevengetachurchoutofhim，"saidI，alittleslyly。
　　"Ha，ha，ha!wewillconverthim，andmakeagoodChristianofhimintheend。"
　　WhenwillourProtestantism，orRationalism，orwhateveritmaybe，sitaslightlyuponourselves？
　　CHAPTERX——S。AmbrogioandNeighbourhoodSincetheopeningoftherailway，theoldinnwherethediligencesandprivatecarriagesusedtostophasbeenclosed；butIwasmade，inahomelyway，extremelycomfortableattheScudodiFrancia，keptbySignorBonaudoandhiswife。Istayedhereoverafortnight，duringwhichImadeseveralexcursions。
　　OnedayIwenttoSanGiorio，asitisalwayswrittenthoughSanGiorgioisevidentlyintended。Herethereisaruinedcastle，beautifullyplaceduponahill；thiscastleshowswellfromtherailwayshortlyafterleavingBussolenostation，ontherighthandgoingtowardsTurin。Havingbeenstruckwithit，IwentbytraintoBussolenowherethereismuchthatIwasunwillinglycompelledtoneglect，andwalkedbacktoSanGiorio。Onmyway，however，I
　　sawapatchofCima-da-Conegliano-lookingmeadow-landonahillsomewayaboveme，andonthisthererosefromamongthechestnutswhatlookedlikeacastellatedmansion。Ithoughtitwelltomakeadigressiontothis，andwhenIgotthere，afteralovelywalk，knockedatthedoor，havingbeentoldbypeasantsthattherewouldbenodifficultyaboutmytakingalookround。TheplaceiscalledtheCastelBurrello，andistenantedbyanoldpriestwhohasretiredhithertoendhisdays。Isentinmycardandbusinessbyhisservant，andby-and-byhecameouttomehimself。
　　"VousetesAnglais，monsieur？"saidheinFrench。
　　"Oui，monsieur。"
　　"VousetesCatholique？"
　　"Monsieur，jesuisdelareligiondemesperes。"
　　"Pardon，monsieur，vosancetresetaientCatholiquesjusqu'autempsdeHenriVIII。"
　　"MaisilyatroiscentansdepuisletempsdeHenriVIII。"
　　"Ehbien!chacunasesconvictions；vousneparlezpascontrelareligion？"
　　"Jamais，jamais，monsieur；j'aiunrespectenormepourl'EgliseCatholique。"
　　"Monsieur，faitescommechezvous；allezouvousvoulez；voustrouvereztouteslesportesouvertes。Amusez-vousbien。"
　　Hethenexplainedtomethatthecastlehadneverbeenaproperlyfortifiedplace，beingintendedonlyasasummerresidenceforthebaronsofBussoleno，whousedtoresorthitherduringtheextremeheat，iftimesweretolerablyquiet。Afterthisheleftme。
　　Takinghimathisword，Iwalkedallround，buttherewasonlyashellremaining；therestofthebuildinghadevidentlybeenburnt，eventhewinginwhichthepresentproprietorresidesbeing，ifI
　　rememberrightly，modernised。Thesite，however，andtheslopingmeadowswhichthecastlecrowns，areofextremebeauty。
　　InowwalkeddowntoSanGiorio，andfoundasmallinnwhereI
　　couldgetbread，butter，eggs，andgoodwine。Iwaswaiteduponbyagood-naturedboy，thesonofthelandlord，whowasaccompaniedbyahawkthatsatalwayseitheruponhishandorshoulder。AsI
　　lookedatthepairIthoughttheywereverymuchalike，andcertainlytheywereverymuchinlovewithoneanother。AfterdinnerIsketchedthecastle。WhileIwasdoingso，agentlemantoldmethatalargebreachinthewallwasmadeafewyearsago，andapartofthewallfoundtobehollow，thebottomofthehollowpartbeingunwittinglyremoved，therefellthroughaskeletoninafullsuitofarmour。Others，whomIasked，hadheardnothingofthis。
　　Talkingofhawks，Isawagoodmanyboyswithtameyounghawksinthevillagesroundabout。TherewasatamehawkatthestationofS。Ambrogio。Thestation-mastersaiditusedtogonowandagaintothechurch-steepletocatchsparrows，butwouldalwaysreturninanhourortwo。Beforemystaywasoveritgotinthewayofapassingtrainandwasrunover。
　　Youngbirdsaremucheateninthisneighbourhood。Thehousesandbarns，nottosaythesteeplesofthechurches，aretobeseenstuckaboutwithwhatlookliketerra-cottawater-bottleswiththenecksoutwards。Twoorthreemaybeseenintheillustrationonp。
　　113outsidethewindowthatcomesoutoftheroof，ontheleft-handsideofthepicture。IhaveseensomeoutsideanItalianrestaurantnearLewisham。Theyareartificialbird's-nestsforthesparrowstobuildin:assoonastheyoungareoldenoughtheyaretakenandmadeintoapie。Thechurch-towerneartheHoteldelaPosteatLanzoismorestuckaboutwiththemthananyotherbuildingthatIhaveseen。
　　Swallowsandhawksareabouttheonlybirdswhoseyoungarenoteaten。OneafternoonImetaboywithajayonhisfinger:havingimprudentlymadeadvancestothisyounggentlemaninthehopesofgettingacquaintedwiththebird，hesaidhethoughtIhadbetterbuyitandhaveitformydinner；butIdidnotfancyit。AnotherdayIsawthepadronaattheinn-doortalkingtoalad，whopulledopenhisshirt-frontandshowedsometwentyorthirtynestlingsinthesimplepocketformedbyhisshirtontheonesideandhisskinupontheother。ThepadronawantedmetosayIshouldliketoeatthem，inwhichcaseshewouldhaveboughtthem；butonecannotgetallthenonsenseonehearsathomeoutofone'sheadinamoment，andIamafraidIpreachedalittle。Thepadrona，whoisoneofthemostfascinatingwomenintheworld，andatsixtyisstillhandsome，lookedalittlevexedandpuzzled:sheadmittedthetruthofwhatIsaid，butpleadedthattheboysfounditveryhardtogainafewsoldi，andifpeopledidn'tkillandeatonething，theywouldanother。TheresultofitallwasthatIdeterminedforthefuturetoleaveyoungbirdstotheirfate；theyandtheboysmustsettlethatmatterbetweenthemselves。Iftheyoungbirdwasaboy，andtheboyayoungbird，itwouldhavebeentheboywhowastakenruthlesslyfromhisnestandeaten。Anoldbirdhasnorighttohaveahomestead，andayoungbirdhasnorighttoexistatall，unlesstheycankeepbothhomesteadandexistenceoutofthewayofboyswhoareinwantofhalf-pence。Itisallperfectlyright，andwhenwegoandstayamongthesecharmingpeople，letusdosoaslearners，notasteachers。
　　Iwatchedthepadronagettingmysupperready。Withwhatartdonotthesepeoplemanagetheirfire。TheNewZealandMaorissaythewhitemanisafool:"Hemakesalargefire，andthenhastositawayfromit；theMaorimakesasmallfire，andsitsoverit。"TheschemeofanItaliankitchen-fireisthatthereshallalwaysbeonestoutlogsmoulderingonthehearth，fromwhichafewlivecoalsmaybechippedoffifwanted，andputintothesmallsquaregratingswhichareusedforstewingorroasting。Anywarmingup，orshorterboiling，isdoneontheMaoriprincipleofmakingasmallfireoflightdrywood，andfeedingitfrequently。Theyeconomiseeverything。ThusIsawthepadronawashsomehen'seggswellincoldwater；Ididnotseewhysheshouldwashthembeforeboilingthem，butpresentlythesoupwhichIwastohaveformysupperbegantoboil。Thensheputtheeggsintothesoupandboiledtheminit。
　　AftersupperIhadatalkwiththepadrone，whotoldmeIwasworkingtoohard。"Totamnoctem，"saidheinLatin，"lavoravimusetnihilincepimus。""Wehavelabouredallnightandtakennothing。""Oh!"hecontinued，"Ihaveeyesandearsinmyhead。"
　　Andashespoke，withhisrighthandhedrewdownhislowereyelid，andwithhisleftpinchedthepigofhisear。"Youwillbeillifyougoonlikethis。"Thenhelaidhishandalonghischeek，puthisheadononeside，andshuthiseyes，toimitateasickmaninbed。OnthisIarrangedtogoanexcursionwithhimonthedayfollowingtoafarmhehadafewmilesoff，andtowhichhewenteveryFriday。
　　WewenttoBorgonestation，andwalkedacrossthevalleytoavillagecalledVillarFochiardo。Thencewebegangentlytoascend，passingundersomenoblechestnuts。SignorBonaudosaidthatthisisoneofthebestchestnut-growingdistrictsinItaly。Agoodtree，hetoldme，wouldgiveitsfortyfrancsayear。Thisseemsasthoughchestnut-growingmustbelucrative，foranacreshouldcarrysomefiveorsixtrees，andthereisnooutlaytospeakof。
　　Besidesthechestnuts，thelandgivesastillfurtherreturnbywayofthegrassthatgrowsbeneaththem。Walnutsdonotyieldnearlysomuchpertreeaschestnutsdo。Inthree-quartersofanhourorsowereachedSignorBonaudo'sfarm，whichwascalledtheCasinadiBanda。Thebuildingshadoncebeenamonastery，foundedatthebeginningoftheseventeenthcenturyandsecularisedbythefirstNapoleon，buthadbeenpurchasedfromthestateafewyearsagobySignorBonaudo，inpartnershipwiththreeothers，afterthepassingoftheChurchPropertyAct。Itisbeautifullysituatedsomehundredsoffeetabovethevalley，andcommandsalovelyviewoftheComba，asitiscalled，orCombeofSusa。TheaccompanyingsketchwillgiveanideaoftheviewlookingtowardsTurin。Thelargebuildingonthehillis，ofcourse，S。Michele。TheverydistantdomeistheSupergaontheothersideofTurin。
　　ThefirstthingSignorBonaudodidwhenhegottohisfarmwastoseewhetherthewaterhadbeendulyturnedontohisownportionoftheestate。Eachofthefourpurchasershadhisseparateportion，andeachhadarighttothewaterforthirty-sixhoursperweek。
　　SignorBonaudowentroundwithhishindatonce，andsawthatthedamsintheductsweresoopenedorclosedthathisownlandwasbeingirrigated。
　　Nothingcanexceedtheingenuitywithwhichthelittlecanalsarearrangedsothateachpartofameadow，howeverundulating，shallbesaturatedequally。Thepeopleareveryjealousoftheirwaterrights，andindeednotunnaturally，fortheyieldofgrassdependsinverygreatmeasureupontheamountofirrigationwhichthelandcanget。
　　Thematterofthewaterhavingbeenseento，wewenttothemonastery，or，asitnowis，thehomestead。Asweenteredthefarmyardwefoundtwocowsfighting，andagreatstrappingwenchbelabouringtheminordertoseparatethem。"Letthemalone，"saidthepadrone；"letthemfightitouthereonthelevelground。"
　　Thenheexplainedtomethathewishedthemtofindoutwhichwasmistress，andfalleachofthemintoherproperplace，foriftheyfoughtontheroughhillsidestheymighteasilybreakeachother'snecks。
　　Wewalkedalloverthemonastery。Thedaywassteamywithfrequentshowers，andthunderstormsintheair。Theroomsweredarkandmouldy，andsmeltratherofrancidcheese，butitwasnotabadsortoframblingoldplace，andifthoroughlydoneupwouldmakeadelightfulinn。Thereisareportthatthereishiddentreasurehere。IdonotknowasingleoldcastleormonasteryinNorthItalyaboutwhichnosuchreportiscurrent，butinthepresentcasethereseemsmorethanusualgroundsothehindtoldmeforbelievingthestorytobewellfounded，forthemonksdidcertainlysmeltthequartzintheneighbourhood，andasnogoldwaseverknowntoleavethemonastery，itismostlikelythatalltheenormousquantitywhichtheymusthavemadeinthecourseofsometwocenturiesisstilluponthepremises，ifonecouldonlylayone'shandsuponit。Soreasonabledidthisseem，thatabouttwoyearsagoitwasresolvedtocallinasomnambulistorclairvoyantfromTurin，who，whenhearrivedatthespot，becameseizedwithconvulsions，betokeningofcoursethattherewastreasurenotfaroff:theseconvulsionsincreasedtillhereachedthechoirofthechapel，andhereheswooned——fallingdownasifdead，andbeingresuscitatedwithapparentdifficulty。Heafterwardsdeclaredthatitwasinthischapelthatthetreasurewashidden。Inspiteofallthis，however，thechapelhasnotbeenturnedupsidedownandransacked，perhapsfromfearofoffendingthesainttowhomitisdedicated。
　　Inthechapelthereareafewvotivepictures，butnotverystrikingones。Ihurriedlysketchedone，buthavefailedtodoitjustice。Thehindsawmecopyingthelittlegirlinbed，andIhadanimpressionasthoughhedidnotquiteunderstandmymotive。I
　　toldhimIhadadearlittlegirlofmyownathome，whohadbeenalarminglyillinthespring，andthatthispictureremindedmeofher。Thismadeeverythingquitecomfortable。
　　WehadbroughtupourdinnerfromS。Ambrogio，andateitinwhathadbeentherefectoryofthemonastery。Thewindowswerebroken，andtheswallows，whohadbuiltupontheceilinginsidetheroom，keptflyingclosetousallthetimewewereeating。Greatmallowsandhollyhockspeeredinatthewindow，andbeyondthemtherewasaprettyDevonshire-lookingorchard。Thenoontidesunstreamedinatintervalsbetweentheshowers。
　　Afterdinnerwewent"alcrestodellacollina"——tothecrestofthehill——touseSignorBonaudo'swords，andlookeddownuponS。
　　Giorio，andtheothervillagesoftheCombeofSusa。Nothingcouldbemoredelightful。Then，gettingunderthechestnuts，ImadethesketchwhichIhavealreadygiven。WhilemakingitIwasaccostedbyanunderjawedmanthereisanunusuallylargepercentageofunderjawedpeopleintheneighbourhoodofS。Ambrogio，whoaskedwhethermytakingthissketchmustnotbeconsideredasasignthatwarwasimminent。Thepeopleinthisvalleyhavebitterandcomparativelyrecentexperienceofwar，andarealarmedatanythingwhichtheyfancymayindicateitsrecurrence。Talkingfurtherwithhim，hesaid，"Herewehavenosignori；weneednottakeoffourhatstoanyoneexceptthepriest。Wegrowallweeat，wespinandweaveallwewear；ifalltheworldexceptourownvalleywereblottedout，itwouldmakenodifference，solongasweremainasweareandunmolested。"Hewasawild，weird，St。JohntheBaptistlookingperson，withshaggyhair，andanAndreaMantegnesquefeelingabouthim。IgavehimapipeofEnglishtobacco，whichheseemedtorelish，andsoweparted。
　　IstayedaweekorsoatanotherplacenotahundredmilesfromSusa，butIwillnotnameit，forfearofcausingoffence。Itwassituatedhigh，abovethevalleyoftheDora，amongthepastures，andjustabouttheupperlimitofthechestnuts。Itoffersasummerretreat，ofwhichthepeopleinTurinavailthemselvesinconsiderablenumbers。TheinnwasamoresophisticatedonethanSignorBonaudo'shouseatS。Ambrogio，andtherewereseveralTurinpeoplestayingthereaswellasmyself，buttherewerenoEnglish。
　　DuringthewholetimeIwasinthatneighbourhoodIsawnotasingleEnglish，French，orGermantourist。Thewaysoftheinn，therefore，wereexclusivelyItalian，andIhadabetteropportunityofseeingtheItaliansastheyareamongthemselvesthanIeverhadbefore。
　　Nothingstruckmemorethantheeasytermsonwhicheveryone，includingthewaiter，appearedtobewitheveryoneelse。This，whichinEnglandwouldbeimpossible，isherenotonlypossiblebutamatterofcourse，becausethegeneralstandardofgoodbreedingisdistinctlyhigherthanitisamongourselves。IdonotmeantosaythattherearenorudeorunmannerlyItalians，butthattherearefewerinproportionthanthereareinanyothernationwithwhichIhaveacquaintance。Thisisnottobewonderedat，fortheItalianshavehadacivilisationfornowsomethreeorfourthousandyears，whereasallothernationsare，comparativelyspeaking，newcountries，withasomethingevenyetofcolonialroughnesspervadingthem。AsthecoloniestoEngland，soisEnglandtoItalyinrespectoftheaveragestandardofcourtesyandgoodmanners。Inanewcountryeverythinghasatendencytogowildagain，manincluded；andthelongercivilisationhasexistedinanycountrythemoretrustworthyandagreeablewillitsinhabitantsbe。Thisprefaceisnecessary，asexplaininghowitispossiblethatthingscanbedoneinItalywithoutoffencewhichwouldbeintolerableelsewhere；butIconfesstofeelingratherhopelessofbeingabletodescribewhatIactuallysawwithoutgivingawrongimpressionconcerningit。
　　Amongthevisitorswastheheadconfidentialclerkofawell-knownMilanesehouse，withhiswifeandsister。Thesisterwasaninvalid，andsoalsowasthehusband，butthewifewasaveryprettywomanandaverymerryone。Thewaiterwasagood-lookingyoungfellowofaboutfive-and-twenty，andbetweenhimandSignoraBonvicino——forwewillsaythiswastheclerk'sname——theresprangupaviolentflirtation，allopenandaboveboard。Thewaiterwasevidentlyveryfondofher，butsaidthemostatrociouslyimpudentthingstoherfromtimetotime。DiningundertheverandaatthenexttableIheardtheSignoracomplainthatthecutletswereburnt。Sotheywere——verybadlyburnt。Thewaiterlookedatthemforamoment——threwheracontemptuousglance，clearlyintendedtoprovokewar——"Chinonhaappetito{17}……"heexclaimed，andwasmovingoffwithashrugoftheshoulders。TheSignorarecognisingachallenge，roseinstantlyfromthetable，andcatchinghimbythenapeofhisneck，kickedhimdeftlydownstairsintothekitchen，bothlaughingheartily，andthehusbandandsisterjoining。Ineversawanythingmoreneatlydone。Ofcourse，inafewminutessomefreshandquiteunexceptionablecutletsmadetheirappearance。
　　Anothermorning，whenIcamedowntobreakfast，Ifoundanaltercationgoingonbetweenthesamepairastowhetherthelady'snosewastoolargeornot。Itwasnotatalltoolarge。Itwasaveryprettylittlenose。Thewaiterwasmaintainingthatitwastoolarge，andtheladythatitwasnot。
　　OneeveningSignorBonvicinotoldmethathisemployerhadaverylargeconnectioninEngland，andthatthoughhehadneverbeeninLondon，heknewallaboutitalmostaswellasifhehad。Thegreatcentreofbusiness，hesaid，wasinRedLionSquare。Itwasherehisemployer'sagentresided，andthiswasamoreimportantpartthaneventhecityproper。Ithrewadroportwoofcoldwateronthis，butwithoutavail。PresentlyIaskedwhatthewaiter'snamewas，nothavingbeenabletocatchit。IaskedthisoftheSignora，andsawalittlelookonherfaceasthoughshewerenotquitepreparedtoreply。Notunderstandingthis，I
　　repeatedmyquestion。
　　"Oh!hisnameisCesare，"wastheanswer。
　　"Cesare!butthatisnotthenameIhearyoucallhimby。"
　　"Well，perhapsnot；wegenerallycallhimCricco，"{18}andshelookedasifshehadsuddenlyrememberedhavingbeentoldthatthereweresuchthingsasprigs，andmight，foraughtsheknew，beinthepresenceofoneofthesecreaturesnow。
　　Herhusbandcametotherescue。"Yes，"saidhe，"hisrealnameisJuliusCaesar，butwecallhimCricco。Criccoeunnomedipaese；
　　parlandocosinonsioffendelareligione。"{19}
　　TheRomanCatholicreligion，iflefttoitselfandnotcompelledtobeintrospective，ismorekindlyandlessgiventotakingoffencethanoutsidersgenerallybelieve。AttheSacroMonteofVaresetheyselllittleroundtinboxesthatlooklikemedals，andcontainpicturesofallthechapels。InthelidoftheboxthereisashortprintedaccountoftheSacroMonte，whichwindsupwiththewords，"Lareligioneelostupendopanoramatiranonumerosiedallegrivisitatori。"{20}
　　Ourpeoplearemuchtooearnesttoallowthataviewcouldhaveanythingtodowithtakingpeopleuptothetopofahillwheretherewasacathedral，orthatpeoplecouldbe"merry"whileonanerrandconnectedwithreligion。
　　OnleavingthisplaceIwantedtosaygood-byetoSignoraBonvicino，andcouldnotfindher；afteratimeIheardshewasatthefountain，soIwentandfoundheronherkneeswashingherhusband'sandherownclothes，withherprettyroundarmsbarenearlytotheshoulder。