Hereitwasthatmyfirsttourofinspectionbegan，earlyonableakeasterlymorning。Therewasacrashingrunofseaupontheshore，Irecollect，andmyfatherandthemanoftheharbourlightmustsometimesraisetheirvoicestobeaudible。Perhapsitisfromthiscircumstance，thatIalwaysimagineSt。Andrewstobeanineffectualseatoflearning，andthesoundoftheeastwindandtheburstingsurftolingerinitsdrowsyclassroomsandconfoundtheutteranceoftheprofessor，untilteacherandtaughtarealikedrownedinoblivion，andonlythesea-gullbeatsonthewindowsandthedraughtofthesea-airrustlesinthepagesoftheopenlecture。Butuponallthis，andtheromanceofSt。Andrewsingeneral，thereadermustconsulttheworksofMr。AndrewLang；whohaswrittenofitbuttheotherdayinhisdaintyproseandwithhisincommunicablehumour，andlongagoinoneofhisbestpoems，withgrace，andlocaltruth，andanoteofunaffectedpathos。Mr。
Langknowsallabouttheromance，Isay，andtheeducationaladvantages，butIdoubtifhehadturnedhisattentiontotheharbourlights；anditmaybenewseventohim，thatintheyear1863theircasewaspitiable。Hangingaboutwiththeeastwindhumminginmyteeth，andmyhandsImakenodoubtinmypockets，Ilookedforthefirsttimeuponthattragi-comedyofthevisitingengineerwhichIhaveseensooftenre-enactedonamoreimportantstage。Eightyyearsago，Ifindmygrandfatherwriting:"Itisthemostpainfulthingthatcanoccurtometohaveacorrespondenceofthiskindwithanyofthekeepers，andwhenI
cometotheLightHouse，insteadofhavingthesatisfactiontomeetthemwithapprobationandwelcometheirFamily，itisdistressingwhenone-isobligedtoputonamostangrycountenanceanddemeanour。"Thispainfulobligationhasbeenhereditaryinmyrace。Ihavemyself，onaperfectlyamateurandunauthorisedinspectionofTurnberryPoint，bentmybrowsuponthekeeperonthequestionofstorm-panes；andfeltakeenpangofself-reproach，whenwewentdownstairsagainandIfoundhewasmakingacoffinforhisinfantchild；andthenregainedmyequanimitywiththethoughtthatIhaddonethemanaservice，andwhentheproperinspectorcame，hewouldbereadierwithhispanes。Thehumanraceisperhapscreditedwithmoreduplicitythanitdeserves。Thevisitationofalighthouseatleastisabusinessofthemosttransparentnature。Assoonastheboatgratesontheshore，andthekeepersstepforwardintheiruniformedcoats，theveryslouchofthefellows'shoulderstellstheirstory，andtheengineermaybeginatoncetoassumehis"angrycountenance。"Certainlythebrassofthehandrailwillbeclouded；andifthebrassbenotimmaculate，certainlyallwillbetomatch-thereflectorsscratched，thesparelampunready，thestorm-panesinthestorehouse。Ifalightisnotrathermorethanmiddlinggood，itwillberadicallybad。Mediocrityexceptinliteratureappearstobeunattainablebyman。ButofcoursetheunfortunateofSt。
Andrewswasonlyanamateur，hewasnotintheService，hehadnouniformcoat，hewasIbelieveaplumberbyhistradeandstoodinthemediaevalphrasequiteoutofthedangerofmyfather；buthehadapainfulinterviewforallthat，andperspiredextremely。
FromSt。Andrews，wedroveoverMagusMuir。Myfatherhadannouncedwewere"topost，"andthephrasecalledupinmyhopefulmindvisionsoftop-bootsandthepicturesinRowlandson'sDANCEOF
DEATH；butitwasonlyajinglingcabthatcametotheinndoor，suchasIhaddriveninathousandtimesatthelowpriceofoneshillingonthestreetsofEdinburgh。Beyondthisdisappointment，Iremembernothingofthatdrive。ItisaroadIhaveoftentravelled，andofnotoneofthesejourneysdoIrememberanysingletrait。Thefacthasnotbeensufferedtoencroachonthetruthoftheimagination。IstillseeMagusMuirtwohundredyearsago；adesertplace，quiteuninclosed；inthemidst，theprimate'scarriagefleeingatthegallop；theassassinsloose-reinedinpursuit，BurleyBalfour，pistolinhand，amongthefirst。Nosceneofhistoryhaseverwrittenitselfsodeeplyonmymind；notbecauseBalfour，thatquestionablezealot，wasanancestralcousinofmyown；notbecauseofthepleadingsofthevictimandhisdaughter；notevenbecauseofthelivebum-beethatflewoutofSharpe's'bacco-box，thusclearlyindicatinghiscomplicitywithSatan；normerelybecause，asitwasafterallacrimeofafinereligiousflavour，itfiguredinSundaybooksandaffordedagratefulrelieffromMINISTERINGCHILDRENortheMEMOIRSOFMRS。
KATHATINEWINSLOWE。ThefigurethatalwaysfixedmyattentionisthatofHackstonofRathillet，sittinginthesaddlewithhiscloakabouthismouth，andthroughallthatlong，bungling，vociferoushurly-burly，revolvingprivatelyacaseofconscience。Hewouldtakenohandinthedeed，becausehehadaprivatespiteagainstthevictim，and"thataction"mustbesulliedwithnosuggestionofaworldlymotive；ontheotherhand，"thataction，"initself，washighlyjustified，hehadcastinhislotwith"theactors，"andhemuststaythere，inactivebutpubliclysharingtheresponsibility。
"Youareagentleman-youwillprotectme!"criedthewoundedoldman，crawlingtowardshim。"Iwillneverlayahandonyou，"saidHackston，andputhiscloakabouthismouth。Itisanoldtemptationwithme，topluckawaythatcloakandseetheface-toopenthatbosomandtoreadtheheart。WithincompleteromancesaboutHackston，thedrawersofmyyouthwerelumbered。IreadhimupineveryprintedbookthatIcouldlaymyhandson。IevendugamongtheWodrowmanuscripts，sittingshame-facedintheveryroomwheremyherohadbeentorturedtwocenturiesbefore，andkeenlyconsciousofmyyouthinthemidstofotherandasIfondlythoughtmoregiftedstudents。Allwasvain:thathehadpassedariotousnonage，thathewasazealot，thathetwicedisplayedcomparedwithhisgrotesquecompanionssometinctureofsoldierlyresolutionandevenofmilitarycommonsense，andthathefiguredmemorablyinthesceneonMagusMuir，somuchandnomorecouldI
makeout。ButwheneverIcastmyeyesbackward，itistoseehimlikealandmarkontheplainsofhistory，sittingwithhiscloakabouthismouth，inscrutable。Howsmallathingcreatesanimmortality!Idonotthinkhecanhavebeenamanentirelycommonplace；buthadhenotthrownhiscloakabouthismouth，orhadthewitnessesforgottochronicletheaction，hewouldnotthushavehauntedtheimaginationofmyboyhood，andto-dayhewouldscarcedelaymeforaparagraph。Anincident，atonceromanticanddramatic，whichatonceawakesthejudgmentandmakesapicturefortheeye，howlittledowerealiseitsperdurablepower!Perhapsnoonedoessobuttheauthor，justasnonebutheappreciatestheinfluenceofjinglingwords；sothathelooksonuponlife，withsomethingofacovertsmile，seeingpeopleledbywhattheyfancytobethoughtsandwhatarereallytheaccustomedartificesofhisowntrade，orrousedbywhattheytaketobeprinciplesandarereallypicturesqueeffects。Inapleasantbookaboutaschool-
classclub，ColonelFergussonhasrecentlytoldalittleanecdote。
A"PhilosophicalSociety"wasformedbysomeAcademyboys-amongthem，ColonelFergussonhimself，FleemingJenkin，andAndrewWilson，theChristianBuddhistandauthorofTHEABODEOFSNOW。
Beforetheselearnedpundits，onememberlaidthefollowingingeniousproblem:"Whatwouldbetheresultofputtingapoundofpotassiuminapotofporter？""Ishouldthinktherewouldbeanumberofinterestingbi-products，"saidasmattereratmyelbow；
butformethetaleitselfhasabi-product，andstandsasatypeofmuchthatismosthuman。Forthisinquirerwhoconceivedhimselftoburnwithazealentirelychemical，wasreallyimmersedinadesignofaquitedifferentnature；unconsciouslytohisownrecentlybreechedintelligence，hewasengagedinliterature。
Putting，pound，potassium，pot，porter；initialp，mediantt-thatwashisidea，poorlittleboy!Sowithpoliticsandthatwhichexcitesmeninthepresent，sowithhistoryandthatwhichrousestheminthepast:therelieattherootofwhatappears，mostseriousunsuspectedelements。
ThetripletownofAnstrutherWester，AnstrutherEaster，andCellardyke，allthreeRoyalBurghs-ortwoRoyalBurghsandalessdistinguishedsuburb，Iforgetwhich-liescontinuouslyalongtheseaside，andboastsofeithertwoorthreeseparateparishchurches，andeithertwoorthreeseparateharbours。Theseambiguitiesarepainful；butthefactisalthoughitarguemeuncultured，IambutpoorlyposteduponCellardyke。MybusinesslayinthetwoAnstruthers。Atrickletofastreamdividesthem，spannedbyabridge；andoverthebridgeatthetimeofmyknowledge，thecelebratedShellHousestoodoutpostonthewest。
Thishadbeentheresidenceofanagreeableeccentric；duringhisfondtenancy，hehadillustratedtheouterwalls，ashighifI
rememberrightlyastheroof，withelaboratepatternsandpictures，andsnatchesofverseintheveinofEXEGIMONUMENTUM；
shellsandpebbles，artfullycontrastedandconjoined，hadbeenhismedium；andIliketothinkofhimstandingbackuponthebridge，whenallwasfinished，drinkinginthegeneraleffectandlikeGibbonalreadylamentinghisemployment。
Thesamebridgesawanothersightintheseventeenthcentury。Mr。
Thomson，the"curat"ofAnstrutherEaster，wasamanhighlyobnoxioustothedevout:inthefirstplace，becausehewasa"curat"；inthesecondplace，becausehewasapersonofirregularandscandalouslife；andinthethirdplace，becausehewasgenerallysuspectedofdealingswiththeEnemyofMan。Thesethreedisqualifications，inthepopularliteratureofthetime，gohandinhand；buttheendofMr。Thomsonwasathingquitebyitself，andintheproperphrase，amanifestjudgment。Hehadbeenatafriend'shouseinAnstrutherWester，whereandelsewhere，I
suspecthehadpartakenofthebottle；indeed，toputthethinginourcoldmodernway，thereverendgentlemanwasonthebrinkofDELIRIUMTREMENS。Itwasadarknight，itseems；alittlelassiecamecarryingalanterntofetchthecuratehome；andawaytheywentdownthestreetofAnstrutherWester，thelanternswingingabitinthechild'shand，thebarredlustretossingupanddownalongthefrontofslumberinghouses，andMr。Thomsonnotaltogethersteadyonhislegsnortoallappearanceeasyinhismind。ThepairhadreachedthemiddleofthebridgewhenasI
conceivethescenethepoortipplerstartedinsomebaselessfearandlookedbehindhim；thechild，alreadyshakenbytheminister'sstrangebehaviour，startedalso；insodoing，shewouldjerkthelantern；andforthespaceofamomentthelightsandtheshadowswouldbeallconfounded。Thenitwasthattotheunhingedtoperandthetwitteringchild，ahugebulkofblacknessseemedtosweepdown，topassthemclosebyastheystooduponthebridge，andtovanishonthefarthersideinthegeneraldarknessofthenight。
"PlainlythedevilcomeforMr。Thomson!"thoughtthechild。WhatMr。Thomsonthoughthimself，wehavenogroundofknowledge；buthefelluponhiskneesinthemidstofthebridgelikeamanpraying。
Ontherestofthejourneytothemanse，historyissilent；butwhentheycametothedoor，thepoorcaitiff，takingthelanternfromthechild，lookeduponherwithsolostacountenancethatherlittlecouragediedwithinher，andshefledhomescreamingtoherparents。Notasoulwouldventureout；allthatnight，theministerdweltalonewithhisterrorsinthemanse；andwhenthedaydawned，andmenmadeboldtogoaboutthestreets，theyfoundthedevilhadcomeindeedforMr。Thomson。
ThismanseofAnstrutherEasterhasanotherandamorecheerfulassociation。Itwasearlyinthemorning，aboutacenturybeforethedaysofMr。Thomson，thathispredecessorwascalledoutofbedtowelcomeaGrandeeofSpain，theDukeofMedinaSidonia，justlandedintheharbourunderneath。Butsuretherewasneverseenamoredecayedgrandee；suretherewasneveradukewelcomedfromastrangerplaceofexile。Half-waybetweenOrkneyandShetland，thereliesacertainisle；ontheonehandtheAtlantic，ontheothertheNorthSea，bombarditspillaredcliffs；sore-eyed，short-
living，inbredfishersandtheirfamiliesherdinitsfewhuts；inthegraveyardpiecesofwreck-woodstandformonuments；thereisnowhereamoreinhospitablespot。BELLE-ISLE-EN-MER-Fair-Isle-
at-Sea-thatisanamethathasalwaysrunginmymind'searlikemusic；buttheonly"FairIsle"onwhichIeversetmyfoot，wasthisunhomely，ruggedturret-topofsubmarinesierras。Here，whenhisshipwasbroken，mylordDukejoyfullygotashore；hereforlongmonthsheandcertainofhismenwereharboured；anditwasfromthisdurancethathelandedatlasttobewelcomedaswellassuchapapistdeserved，nodoubtbythegodlyincumbentofAnstrutherEaster；andaftertheFairIsle，whatafinecitymustthathaveappeared!andaftertheislanddiet，whatahospitablespottheminister'stable!Andyethemusthavelivedonfriendlytermswithhisoutlandishhosts。FortothisdaytherestillsurvivesarelicofthelongwintereveningswhenthesailorsofthegreatArmadacrouchedaboutthehearthsoftheFair-Islanders，theplanksoftheirownlostgalleonperhapslightingupthescene，andthegaleandthesurfthatbeataboutthecoastcontributingtheirmelancholyvoices。Allthefolkofthenorthislesaregreatartificersofknitting:theFair-IslandersalonedyetheirfabricsintheSpanishmanner。Tothisday，glovesandnightcaps，innocentlydecorated，maybeseenforsaleintheShetlandwarehouseatEdinburgh，orontheFairIsleitselfinthecatechist'shouse；andtothisday，theytellthestoryoftheDukeofMedinaSidonia'sadventure。
ItwouldseemasiftheFairIslehadsomeattractionfor"personsofquality。"WhenIlandedtheremyself，anelderlygentleman，unshaved，poorlyattired，hisshoulderswrappedinaplaid，wasseenwalkingtoandfro，withabookinhishand，uponthebeach。
Hepaidnoheedtoourarrival，whichwethoughtastrangethinginitself；butwhenoneoftheofficersofthePHAROS，passingnarrowlybyhim，observedhisbooktobeaGreekTestament，ourwonderandinteresttookahigherflight。Thecatechistwascross-
examined；hesaidthegentlemanhadbeenputacrosssometimebeforeinMr。BruceofSumburgh'sschooner，theonlylinkbetweentheFairIsleandtherestoftheworld；andthatheheldservicesandwasdoing"good。"Somuchcamegliblyenough；butwhenpressedalittlefarther，thecatechistdisplayedembarrassment。A
singulardiffidenceappeareduponhisface:"Theytellme，"saidhe，inlowtones，"thathe'salord。"Andalordhewas；apeeroftherealmpacingthatinhospitablebeachwithhisGreekTestament，andhisplaidabouthisshoulders，setupondoinggood，asheunderstoodit，worthyman!Andhisgrandson，agood-lookinglittleboy，muchbetterdressedthanthelordlyevangelist，andspeakingwithasilkenEnglishaccentveryforeigntothescene，accompaniedmeforawhileinmyexplorationoftheisland。Isupposethislittlefellowisnowmylord，andwonderhowmuchheremembersoftheFairIsle。Perhapsnotmuch；forheseemedtoacceptveryquietlyhissavagesituation；andundersuchguidance，itislikethatthiswasnothisfirstnoryethislastadventure。
CHAPTERVI-RANDOMMEMORIES
II-THEEDUCATIONOFANENGINEER
ANSTRUTHERisaplacesacredtotheMuse；sheinspiredreallytoaconsiderableextentTennant'svernacularpoemANST'ERFAIR；andI
havetherewaiteduponhermyselfwithmuchdevotion。ThiswaswhenIcameasayoungmantogleanengineeringexperiencefromthebuildingofthebreakwater。WhatIgleaned，IamsureIdonotknow；butindeedIhadalreadymyownprivatedeterminationtobeanauthor；Ilovedtheartofwordsandtheappearancesoflife；
andTRAVELLERS，andHEADERS，andRUBBLE，andPOLISHEDASHLAR，andPIERRESPERDUES，andeventhethrillingquestionoftheSTRING-
COURSE，interestedmeonlyiftheyinterestedmeatallaspropertiesforsomepossibleromanceoraswordstoaddtomyvocabulary。Togrowalittlecatholicisthecompensationofyears；youthisone-eyed；andinthosedays，thoughIhauntedthebreakwaterbyday，andevenlovedtheplaceforthesakeofthesunshine，thethrillingseasideair，thewashofwavesonthesea-
face，thegreenglimmerofthedivers'helmetsfarbelow，andthemusicalchinkingofthemasons，myonegenuinepreoccupationlayelsewhere，andmyonlyindustrywasinthehourswhenIwasnotonduty。IlodgedwithacertainBailieBrown，acarpenterbytrade；
andthere，assoonasdinnerwasdespatched，inachamberscentedwithdryrose-leaves，drewinmychairtothetableandproceededtopourforthliterature，atsuchaspeed，andwithsuchintimationsofearlydeathandimmortality，asInowlookbackuponwithwonder。ThenitwasthatIwroteVOCESFIDELIUM，aseriesofdramaticmonologuesinverse；thenthatIinditedthebulkofacovenantingnovel-likesomanyothers，neverfinished。LateI
satintothenight，toilingasIthoughtundertheverydartofdeath，toilingtoleaveamemorybehindme。Ifeelmovedtothrustasidethecurtainoftheyears，tohailthatpoorfeverishidiot，tobidhimgotobedandclapVOCESFIDELIUMonthefirebeforehegoes；socleardoesheappearbeforeme，sittingtherebetweenhiscandlesintherose-scentedroomandthelatenight；soridiculousapicturetomyelderlywisdomdoesthefoolpresent!Buthewasdriventohisbedatlastwithoutmiraculousintervention；andthemannerofhisdrivingsetsthelasttouchuponthiseminentlyyouthful
business。TheweatherwasthensowarmthatImustkeepthewindowsopen；thenightwithoutwaspopulouswithmoths。Asthelatedarknessdeepened，myliterarytapersbeaconedforthmorebrightly；thickerandthickercamethedustynight-fliers，togyrateforonebrilliantinstantroundtheflameandfallinagoniesuponmypaper。Fleshandbloodcouldnotendurethespectacle；tocaptureimmortalitywasdoubtlessanobleenterprise，butnottocaptureitatsuchacostofsuffering；andoutwouldgothecandles，andoffwouldIgotobedinthedarknessragingtothinkthattheblowmightfallonthemorrow，andtherewasVOCES
FIDELIUMstillincomplete。Well，themothsare-allgone，andVOCESFIDELIUMalongwiththem；onlythefoolisstillonhandandpractisesnewfollies。
Onlyonethinginconnectionwiththeharbourtemptedme，andthatwasthediving，anexperienceIburnedtotasteof。Butthiswasnottobe，atleastinAnstruther；andthesubjectinvolvesachangeofscenetothesub-arctictownofWick。YoucanneverhavedweltinacountrymoreunsightlythanthatpartofCaithness，thelandfaintlyswelling，faintlyfalling，notatree，notahedgerow，thefieldsdividedbysingleslatestonessetupontheiredge，thewindalwayssinginginyourearsanddownthelongroadthatlednowherethrumminginthetelegraphwires。Onlyasyouapproachedthecoastwasthereanythingtostirtheheart。TheplateaubrokedowntotheNorthSeainformidablecliffs，thetallout-stacksroselikepillarsringedaboutwithsurf，thecoveswereover-
brimmedwithclamorousfroth，thesea-birdsscreamed，thewindsanginthethymeonthecliff'sedge；hereandthere，smallancientcastlestoppledonthebrim；hereandthere，itwaspossibletodipintoadellofshelter，whereyoumightlieandtellyourselfyouwerealittlewarm，andhearnearathandthewhin-podsburstingintheafternoonsun，andfartherofftherumouroftheturbulentsea。AsforWickitself，itisoneofthemeanestofman'stowns，andsituatecertainlyonthebaldestofGod'sbays。Itlivesforherring，andastrangesightitistoseeofanafternoontheheightsofPulteneyblackenedbyseaward-lookingfishers，aswhenacitycrowdstoareview-or，aswhenbeeshaveswarmed，thegroundishorriblewithlumpsandclusters；andastrangesight，andabeautiful，toseethefleetputsilentlyoutagainstarisingmoon，thesea-lineroughasawoodwithsails，andeverandagainandoneafteranother，aboatflittingswiftlybythesilverdisk。Thismassoffishers，thisgreatfleetofboats，isoutofallproportiontothetownitself；andtheoarsaremannedandthenetshauledbyimmigrantsfromtheLongIslandaswecalltheouterHebrides，whocomeforthatseasononly，anddepartagain，if"thetake"bepoor，leavingdebtsbehindthem。Inabadyear，theendoftheherringfisheryisthereforeanexcitingtime；fightsarecommon，riotsoftenpossible；anappleknockedfromachild'shandwasoncethesignalforsomethinglikeawar；andevenwhenIwasthere，agunboatlayinthebaytoassisttheauthorities。Tocontraryinterests，itshouldbeobserved，thecurseofBabelishereadded；theLewsmenareGaelicspeakers。CaithnesshasadoptedEnglish；anoddcircumstance，ifyoureflectthatbothmustbelargelyNorsemenbydescent。Irememberseeingoneofthestrongestinstancesofthisdivision:athinglikeaPunch-and-